How to fix your automati

A MALFUNCTION in your automatic

washer usually affects a basic func-
tion: fill, wash (agitation), drain or spin.
The troubleshooting charts on these four
pages will help you pinpoint a problem and
correct it. To determine what the common
components look like and their location, re-
fer to the illustration below. It's a com-
posite that's typical of most machines.
When testing electrical components, con-
sult your machine's wiring diagram, which
is glued on the back of, or inside, the ma-
chine. The chart on page 69 will help you
interpret the electrical symbols.

COMMON WASHER COMPONENTS

WATER-TEMPERATURE WATER-LEVEL
VALVES PUSHBUTTON PANEL PRESSURE SWITCH

CONSOLE
TIMER DIAL
COVER (CYCLE VARIABLES)

WATER-
INLET
HOSES WATER-INLET HOSE

CARTRIDGE
FILTER TUB RING
COLD

DISPENSER
HOT

AGITATOR

TUB
DRAIN HOSE, TO
STANDPIPE OR
LAUNDRY TUB

BASKET

PUMP
GUARD

THREE-PRONG
PLUG MOTOR

BRACE

TRANSMISSION
PUMP TWO-WAY
DRIVE VALVE
SHOCK ABSORBER CLUTCH
DRIVE BELT
LEVELING FOOT Illustration by Adolph Brotman
66 POPULAR MECHANICS
washer
To test the timer, turn the control knob
slowly from the "Off" position before the
regular cycle to the spot in the cycle where
the machine isn't working properly as you
count the number of increments (clicks).
Count the corresponding increments on the
timer cam chart and determine which
terminals should be closed. Timer contact
terminals are marked on the timer and
timer cam chart by a letter or numerical
code. Connect a 115-v. test light to the
terminals and turn on the machine. If the
test light fails to light, the timer is faulty
in that model and should be replaced. * * *

Washer doesn't fill

Water valve
CAUSE ACTION TO TAKE*
1. Water faucet(s) Open faucet(s).
closed.
2. Water inlet hoses Straighten hoses.
kinked. DIAPHRAGM
3. Clogged water Remove screens and flush out sediment.
valve screens.
4. Damaged water Remove leads and connect a 115-v. test light across
valve solenoid. terminals, turn on electricity and move control knob to
"Fill." No light signifies a bad solenoid. Replace. SPRING
5. Defective timer. Test as described in text above.
6. Defective water Remove leads and connect a 115-v. test light across
temperature terminals, turn on electricity and move control knob to
switch. "Fill." No light signifies a bad solenoid. Replace.
7. Defective water- The switch normally has three terminals. With switch in
level pressure "Fill" position there is contact between two of the
switch. terminals with the third terminal "open." Make sure you
connect a 115-v. test light across the terminals
affecting "Fill." Consult the wiring diagram. Turn on
electricity and move control knob to "Fill." No light
signifies a bad solenoid. Replace.
8. Water valve Disassemble water valve and check each part for damage,
internal paying particular attention to the guide assembly and
malfunction. diaphragm. Replace the bad part, if possible. If not,
replace the whole valve.
9. Open circuit. Using the wiring diagram as a guide, probe each wire COIL
connection with a 115-v. test light to determine if
defective wiring or a loose connection is causing the
problem. Be sure control knob is at "Fill" position.
"After taking each "action," reconnect power and test operation, Water pump
but be sure to pull plug from wall receptacle before continuing.

HOUSING
Washer doesn't drain
CAUSE ACTION TO TAKE

1. Kinked drain hose; Straighten hose; clear drain.

clogged drain.

2. Broken or slipping Replace or tighten.

drive belt.

3. Defective pump. Usually pump is clogged or impeller goes bad. Pump may
be taken apart for cleaning or replacement of defective
parts, or it may be replaced as a unit.

4. Defective timer If tile motor doesn't kick into "Drain," test timer as
and open circuit. described in text above. Also check for open circuit,
Be sure the control knob is set to "Drain" position.

JANUARY 1973
 Washer doesn't agitate (wash)
CAUSE ACTION TO TAKE*

1. Broken or slipping Replace or tighten.

drive belt.
2. Defective drive Remove the drive belt and turn the clutch by hand with
clutch. the control knob in the "Wash" (agitate) position. If
there is no "grab," the clutch is defective and should
be replaced.
3. Defective With the drive belt off, manually rotate the
transmission. transmission pulley in agitate direction (usually
clockwise) with control knob in "Wash" (agitate)
position. If this doesn't drive the agitator, the
problem is in the transmission.

4. Defective timer. Test as described in text (pages 66 to 67).

5. Faulty water- When water has filled the tub, contact reverts to the
level pressure. third terminal of this switch and to one of the other
two terminals. The remaining terminal reverts to "Open"
position. Make sure to connect a 115-v. test Eight
across the terminals affecting "Filled." Consult the
Timer wiring diagram. Turn on the electricity and move the
control knob to "Wash." No light signifies that you
have a bad switch.
6. Open circuit. Using the wiring diagram as a guide, probe each wire
connection with a 115-v, test light to determine if
either defective wiring or a loose connection is
causing the problem. Make certain that the control knob
is set at the "Wash" position,
*After taking each "action," reconnect power and test operation,
but be sure to pull plug from wall receptacle before continuing.

Washer doesn't spin or spins slowly

CAUSE ACTION TO TAKE

1. Broken or slipping Replace or tighten.

drive belt.

Water- 2. Loose motor pulley. Tighten pulley.

temperature
switch 3. Defective drive Test as described under "Washer doesn't agitate," Cause
clutch. 2 (above); be sure control knob is in "Spin" position.

4. Spin brake doesn't The brake is not part of the transmission, but since
release or they are attached and work together, they are checked as
transmission a unit. Set control knob in "Spin" position and remove
is frozen. drive belt. Turn brake stator; it should move freely.
If not, the brake assembly or transmission is defective.
Both units can be repaired.

5. Defective timer If motor doesn't kick into "Spin," test timer as in text
or open circuit. (pages 66-67). Also check for open circuit. Be sure
the control knob is set to the "Spin" position.

Abide by the following precautions:

• Be sure that electricity is turned
off before handling components.
Water-level • Turn off water when working on
pressure water-handling components, such as
switch the water valve.
• Before replacing an electrical
component you believe is faulty, make
certain that a loose connection isn't
causing the problem.
• After replacing an electrical
68
component, tighten connections.
• Before reconnecting your electrical
service, see to it that ground wires
are tightly attached.
• Make sure that water connections I
are secure.
• Install replacement parts that meet
factory specification. You can't go
wrong using parts made by the
manufacturer of the washer.
POPULAR MECHANICS
Motor doesn't run
CAUSE ACTION TO TAKE*
1. Electrical service Be sure that plug is connected and fuse or circuit
cord isn't plugged breaker is okay. If there is no power at the wall
in; blown fuse or receptacle, check the circuit.
a tripped circuit
breaker; possible
malfunction in TRANSMISSION
branch circuit. PULLEY

2. Defective tinier. Test as described in text (pages 66-67).

3. Defective lid
switch.
4. Defective motor.
5. Open circuit.
*After taking each "action," reconnect power and test operation,
but be sure to pull plug from wall receptacle before continuing.
Many models have a switch in the lid which
SPIN
automatically turns the washer off if door is open
PULLEY
during cycling. If the machine refuses to operate with
the lid closed, connect a test light across the lid
switch. No light indicates a faulty switch. Replace.
Most motors are protected by an internal overload
circuit breaker that stops operation if the motor 1/2"
overheats. If this protective device halts motor
operation, but the motor can be started again after 1/2"
about 30 minutes, consider the following conditions:
(a) If the motor trips off when the
machine goes into the spin cycle,
the cause of trouble may be in the PUMP
clutch, brake or transmission—not PULLEY 1/2"
the motor. To find out, remove
transmission drive belts and let the PROPER belt tension
motor operate. If it doesn't trip off
is reached when you
now, there is no motor problem.
(b) If the motor operates in agitate can deflect it ½ in.
position, but won't operate in spin Minimum belt tension
position or vice versa, check timer after extended use
and lid switch, and look for broken should be 15 pounds.
wire before condemning the motor. To check this, hook
spring scale at mid-
This possibility always exists, so before you rip the
motor out of the machine conduct continuity tests with point and note what
your test light at each wire connection. force is required to
deflect the belt 1 in.

Symbols found in wiring diagrams

ITEM OLD NEW ITEM OLD NEW ITEM OLD NEW

Terminal Double-throw
Ballast
thermostat

Adj. Thermostat Timer motor Internal -

conductor

Thermocouple Plug connector Harness wire

Starter Permanent
Neon light None
(automatic) connection

Transformer None Light 3-prong plug

(incandescent)

Thermistor None Pressure sw. Timer sw.

Transistor None Fluorescent Automatic sw.

Diode (rectifier) None Coil Manual sw.

Rectifier
None Capacitor Double throw
(controlled)
Coil and switches Resistor Crossover

Motor, Heater
single speed Centrifugal sw
(wattage shown) 2800 2800w.
Motor,
multispeed Thermostat Ground

JANUARY 1973 69