Lower Saddle Approach 2014

FALL 2014 ONWARDS

Fall has hit the Tetons with winter not far beind. With a storm, hikers and climbers to
the Lower Saddle could easily encounter snow, ice, whiteout and below freezing
conditions. Keep in mind the decreasing amount of daylight as we continue moving
towards the winter solstice. Crampons and ice axe may be advisable as conditions
change.
SEPTEMBER 6, 2014
The approach to the Lower Saddle has dried out after the most recent storm on August
31st. Conditions above the Lower Saddle remain snowy/icy.
AUGUST 24, 2014
Approach is dry except for a bit of ice/water at the fixed lines. Continuous fall-like
weather has dropped 8 inches of snow at the Lower Saddle and Grand Teton. A full day
of solar radiation will be needed to dry all the routes. Chimneys and ledges could remain
icy for the remainder of the season.
AUGUST 13, 2014
Conditions persist per last entry. Many climbers chose to climb the fixed line with their
helmets strapped to their packs rather than on their heads. Rockfall does occur in this
area.
AUGUST 5, 2014
Route to the fixed lines is melted out. Beware of rockfall. Please stay on the trail that
heads to the watering hole to protect the vegetation. Traverse South above the fixed
lines.
JULY 29, 2014
Axe and crampons are no longer required to reach the Lower Saddle and climbers have
transitioned into using the "summer" route and fixed line. Keep on your toes for rockfall
through the Upper Moraine, especially during or after rain events.

JULY 17, 2014

Both routes ("winter" & "summer") continue to be used above the Meadows and both
ways require dealing with steep snow and loose rock. The bootpack across the headwall
below the Lower Saddle remains the preferred route as the fixed line is not yet melted
out completely. Ice axe remains STRONGLY RECOMMENDED!

Headwall above the Meadows - "winter" route on far left; "summer" route right of waterfall - 7/17/14

Climbers crossing steep snow on the "summer" route above the Meadows just prior to the Caves - 7/15/14

Headwall below Lower Saddle - 7/17/14

JULY 8, 2014
The "winter route" up to the Lower Saddle is still being used but melting out quickly- be
aware of the possibility of moats and failing snow bridges. Some are venturing onto the
summer route- take care on these steep snow slopes. The headwall's fixed line is slowly
melting out but not yet fully exposed and the rocks are very wet. The bootpack across
the headwall is the preferred method of travel. Ice axe and crampons still
recommended.

Headwall

JULY 2, 2014

Summer route up to Petzoldt Caves

Winter route below the Middle Teton

Close up of winter route

View looking down on the Meadows camping zone from the Winter Route
JULY 1, 2014

Garnet Canyon - Moraine/Lower Saddle

Lower Saddle Headwall

JUNE 26, 2014

Mostly snow free to the Platforms; then mostly snow the rest of the way to the saddle.
Ice axe and crampons recommended!