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Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

St. Petersburg
December 2014 - January 2015

In search of lost time


Glorious Pskov, ancient
and modern
More than
10 years
in Russia!

inyourpocket.com
N98

Treasure Palace
The State Hermitage
turns 250

Contents
Where to eat

28

Russian, Italian, Caucasian and more

E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S

Nightlife

Foreword

In the News

Arrival & Getting Around

City Basics

Language

Culture & Events 10


Concerts and festivals
10
Exhibitions 14

Features

39

Bars and clubs how to stay out till 6 a.m.

What to see
The essentials
Modern art centres
Historical outskirts

44
44
45
47

Where to stay 54
Interview with concierge

56

Shopping

57
58

Russian winter souvenirs

Expat & Lifestyle 59

The expat experience


St. Petersburg Theatre Life 17
Maps & Index
Winter Holidays in St. Petersburg 20
Metro map
Grand Hotel Europe 34
City map
Hermitage 250 years 48
Street index
Pskov 50

Moscow

60
61
62
64
65

0+

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December 2014 - January 2015

Foreword
Time flies way too fast. I still remember how one year
ago our team was preparing a big party dedicated to
St. Petersburg In Your Pockets 10th anniversary. So
many close friends came to celebrate this day with us
and wish us their best! And now we are one year older
again and as always have lots of new ideas and exciting
projects.
2014 was a great year for all of us at In Your Pocket as
well as for St. Petersburg itself. The city has been growing and changing in all the right ways, especially in both
the hospitality and cultural sectors. A ton of new hotels
and restaurants, art centres and museums have opened
and St. Petersburg hosted more big international festivals
and concerts than ever before. All of which once again
confirms St. Petersburgs status as the cultural capital of
Russia.
Thats all to say, youve made the right choice in coming to
this incredible city and you can now enjoy the experience
of a real Russian winter! Be ready, they say this winter will
be one of the coldest in 20 years. Sounds exciting doesnt
it? Check out our special feature on pages 20-26, which is
filled with things to do during the winter holidays as well
as full details about New Year celebrations. Then wrap up
warm and hit the town!
You can also go to the theatre (as you probably know its
an absolute must during your stay in St. Petersburg, check
out pages 17-19 for details) and after that have a fabulous
dinner in one of the best restaurants in town (see pages
27-38). Or if youd like something really special and unforgettable, check pages 50-53 and plan your trip to the
ancient town of Pskov. Not far from St. Petersburg and one
of Russias oldest, yet least well known cities, Pskov has
lots to offer the curious traveler.
Whatever you decide to do, enjoy every moment of your
stay in the city and have a lot of fun! Happy New Year,
dear friends!
Ksenia Elzes,
Russia In Your Pocket

St. Petersburg In Your


E SPocket
S E N TI A L
founded and published
C I by
T YOOO
G Krasnaya
U I D E SShapka/In Your Pocket.
Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A,
tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64,
General Director Tanya Skvortsova, tanya@inyourpocket.com
russia@inyourpocket.com, russia.inyourpocket.com
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OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket
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Published 6 times per year with supplements,
No 98, 01.12.2014, 90.000 copies.
For children aged 16 years and over.
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St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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while some old favourites, such as Budapest in
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In the News
Hermitage Celebrates
250th Anniversary
While there are many worthy contenders for the title face of
the city, if you ask someone to close their eyes and picture
St. Petersburg, they will probably imagine the Hermitage.
Founded in 1764 by Catherine the Great as a private collection (one of the Empresss first job lots was purchased from
Sir Robert Walpole, Great Britains first Prime Minister), the
Hermitage only opened its doors to the public just under a
centurey later, during the reign of Nicholas I. Today the collection has grown to over 3 million works, or one for every
visitor who crosses its hallowed threshold each year. If you
werent one of them in 2014, shame on you, but check out
our special feature on pages 48-49 and well overlook it just
this once.

Arts Square Festival


On December 14th and 15th the St. Petersburg Philharmonia will host the 15th Arts Square music festival. This
year the event takes on a distinctly English flavour: the programme includes performances of works by Purcell, Britten, Elgar and Nyman among others, and renowned tenor
Ian Bostridge and pianist Christian Blackshaw will also be
flying in. To mark the 450th anniversary of Shakespeares
birth, midwinter in St. Petersburg will witness a unique
performance of A Midsummer Nights Dream, and cinema
fans young and old will have the opportunity to watch The
Snowman and 2001: A Space Odyssey screened to the live
accompaniment of a full symphony orchestra. Another festival highlight will be the appearance of one of the most
in-demand tenors of the moment, Jonas Kaufmann, performing pieces by Schumann, Wagner and Liszt. www.
philharmonia.spb.ru

Russian Epiphany
An ice bucket? You call that a challenge? Filming yourself as you tip a few litres of cold water over your head
on a summers day is all very well, but youve got some
way to go to match the brave souls who line up to
take the plunge each year on January 19th, the date of
the Epiphany (Kreshcheniye) in the Russian Orthodox
calendar. Last year more than 30,000 people in St. Petersburg alone voluntarily immersed themselves three
times in a blessed section of freezing water in honour
of the baptism of Christ. If you want to watch, or even
take part, there are 17 sites in and around St. Petersburg
officially set up to help the faithful and/or foolhardy
test their mettle, the most central being on the banks
of the Neva just by the Peter and Paul Fortress.

The FORMA Biennale


of Museum Design
Organised by the State Hermitage and the PRO ARTE
Foundation for Culture and the Arts, with the support of
the Russian Ministry of Culture and the Mikhail Prokhorov
Foundation, the FORMA Biennale is a new initiative setting
out to examine how contemporary museums can optimise
themselves both in terms of visitor attraction and functionality. Hosted by a range of venues across the city from November 14th to December 14th, the Biennales programme
includes lectures by world-renowned architects, as well as
a number of feature exhibitions created by both Russian
and international designers. For further information, please
visit www.spbmuseumdesign.ru

Long Winter Holidays


The rest of the world may still decide to pop into work for a
few days between Christmas and New Year, principally to detox from the former and prepare for the latter, but Russia once
again cements its reputation as the land of plenty by generously bestowing a solid week and a half of rest and recuperation on
its mildly hungover citizens. This year, the national holidays run
from New Years Day to January 11th, while the particularly devout might also want to plan a half-day for the 13th to celebrate
Old New Year in accordance with the Russian Orthodox Calendar. The 25th and 26th of December remain normal working
days, inasmuch as this is ever practically possible. Read more on
the celebration of Russian Christmas on page 22.
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December 2014 - January 2015

Arriving & Getting Around


St. Petersburg has excellent public transport. The metro system is amazing - both attractive and efficient - and is the
fastest way to get across town or into the centre of the city.
If you find Cyrillic a bit of a squiggle, youll love the metro
as it has transliterations for all the stations. To navigate your
way from the metro station to your destination you have a
choice of buses, minibuses (marshrutky), trolleybuses and
trams - these are less user friendly but once you know the
routes and when to get off, they make getting around the
city a breeze. If you want to hop into something a little
more comfortable, you can always take a taxi.

Arriving in town
Arriving by bus
St. Petersburg has several bus stations, so make sure you
know where you are going before you leave.
The central bus station (www.avokzal.ru) is a bit out of
the way at Naberezhnaya Obvodnogo kanala 36, which is
a short taxi-ride (around 200-300Rbl) to the centre of town
and about a 15-minute walk to metro Ligovsky pr.
Eurolines buses (www.eurolines.ru) arrive at Baltiskaya
metro station where you can take a taxi or just enter into
the metro system. To find your way into the city centre
make a bee-line for Nevsky Prospekt. Some bus companies
have stops at the citys main hotels. The proliferation of bus
companies operating out of St. Petersburg means that you
could be dropped off at a number of different bus stops.
The main rule of thumb is to find your way to the nearest
metro station or take a taxi.
Arriving by car
Are you driving your car all the way to Russia? Remember the following: your National and International Drivers
licence, registration and insurance documents for the car
and, of course, your passport with a valid Russian visa. At
the border, ask for an Immigration Card and make sure it is
stamped! Stay on the main roads, as you might get pulled
over for accidentally straying into a military zone (no, that is
not a joke). Traffic police (recognizable by or or
) might also fine you for not having a fire extinguisher,
a first-aid kit, or for exceeding the speed limit, which on the
highway varies between 80 and 110 km/h.
The normal procedure for pumping gas is that you first pay
for a certain amount and then start filling up your tank.

The Traffic Police have stops when you enter a new zone
of jurisdiction. You are required to proceed slowly and
there is a chance you might get pulled off. Dont overpay
the traffic police: the official penalty for driving 20-40km
too fast is 300Rbl, for 60km over the limit, it costs between 1000 and 1,500Rbl. Driving through a red light
will cost 700Rbl and not wearing a seatbelt will cost
500Rbl. Most of the policemen do not speak English,
which might make things difficult, or perhaps very easy.
In towns the speed limit is around 60 km/h, but road
conditions often force you to drive more carefully and
thus more slowly.
Arriving by plane
St. Petersburgs international terminal Pulkovo is located
in the south of the city (metro Moskovskaya). The airport
offers the usual shops and restaurants within the terminal
building and hotels nearby. Keep your eyes open for ATM
machines and money exchanges (obmen valyuty) if you urgently need some roubles. If you want to relax with a coffee
and cake before being collected or trying to find your way
into the city, be aware that the airport prices have been
known to cause heart failure!
Getting into town: To get into the city centre you can take
Bus 39 or mini-bus (marshrutka) 39 to Moskovskaya
Metro Station (seven stops it will take 15-25 minutes
depending on traffic) and then take the metro into town
(another seven stops in the metro about 15-20 minutes).
Once you are in the metro system you can get to most parts
of town quickly. Keep you eyes open for maps of the metro
system if you need to find a particular station.
If you choose to take a taxi, beware of the airport taxi drivers! They are notorious for overcharging, asking 1500Rbl
and up for the 18-km ride to the city centre. Always agree
on a fare before getting in, keeping in mind that a reasonable price shouldnt exceed 700-800Rbl.
Arriving by train
Arriving in St. Petersburg by train is convenient. All the train
stations are located next to metro stations, so you simply
need to step off the train and enter into the bowels of St.
Petersburgs underground system and find your way to the
metro station nearest your destination.
Vitebsk (Vitebsky) station is the destination for trains from
the Baltic States and Eastern Europe. Trains from Finland
arrive at the Finland (Finlyandksy) station and Ladozhsky
station, while Moscow (Moskovsky) station is the hub for
Moscow bound trains. Long distance trains within Russia
arrive and depart from Moskovsky and Ladozhsky stations.
There are taxi stands outside every station and the drivers
there usually charge less than the ones waiting to pounce
on the station platforms. If you are arriving from midnight
onwards be prepared for city transport difficulties. The metro system will be closed for the night, so better take a taxi.

Read more online:


www.inyourpocket.com/
russia/st-petersburg/arriving
6

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Arriving & Getting Around


Departing St. Petersburg by train: If youd just like to get
out of the city for the day, local trains (electrichky) cheaply
connect the villages and suburbs to St. Petersburg. Electrichky to Gatchina, Lomonosov and Peterhof depart from
Baltic (Baltiisky) station, from Finlyandsky you can visit
Viburg, and Pushkin and Pavlovsk are covered by Vitebsky.
There may be no toilets, but if you forgot to bring ice cream,
band-aids or knife sharpeners a vender might be wandering the aisle with just what you need.
Baltisky station
QC-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kan. 120, MBaltiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 457 28 59, www.ozd.rzd.ru.
Finlyandsky station
QE-1, Pl. Lenina 6, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 436 67 46,
www.ozd.rzd.ru.
Ladozhsky station
QZanevsky pr. 73, MLadozhskaya, tel. (+7) 812 436 53
10, www.ozd.rzd.ru.
Moskovsky station
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 85, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 457
44 28, www.ozd.rzd.ru.
Vitebsky station
QD-4, Zagorodny pr. 52, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 812
457 59 39, www.ozd.rzd.ru.

Public transport
Petersburg residents get around the city using a variety of
transport options. The fastest and most efficient is the metro. On above-ground transportation you can buy tickets
from the conductor or driver (25Rbl for bus, tram, trolleybus) and up to 36Rbl for a marshrutka (mini-bus). All forms
of transport work from around 06:00 to just after midnight.
Official taxis are inexpensive by European standards and
there is also the possibility of getting an independent
driver.
St. Petersburgs metro is one of the deepest in the world
and one of the most beautiful. Central stations and those
on the red line are particularly impressive, featuring tons
of Soviet symbology in bronze, glass and stone. Its also
fast and efficient and, during peak time, you wont need
to wait more than three minutes for a ride. The metro runs
from 06:00 till around 00:30. First, youll need to buy a token (zheton). Zhetons cost 28Rbl and can be bought from
the window labelled kassa. There are five different metro
lines, and to change lines, you usually need to change stations. There are underground passageways linking adjacent
stations like Sadovaya/Sennaya Pl. and Nevsky pr./Gostiny
Dvor. When you arrive at a station, it can be difficult to see
the name of where you are. You will hear the arrival station
announced, followed by the name of the next stop. This
can be confusing, so its best to count your stops. In rush
hour, the metro can get a bit hectic and its at this time you
can see Petersburgers at their very worst: pushing, shoving
and queue-cutting.
Buses and trolleybuses are another option and they have
the advantage of allowing you to take in the architecture of
the city, sometimes very slowly and often over the leatherwww.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

covered shoulders of a local commuter. Scrolling banners


above the drivers cabin will list the next destination. Many
also feature pre-recorded announcements for the current
and following stop. Routes are indicated on window placards positioned on the side of each bus and trolley.
The marshrutka is a mini-bus taxi which follows a fixed
route. The marshrutka concept emerged in the 90s as a
reaction to overcrowded public transport. These days,
they go just about everywhere within the city and out to
the suburbs. Sadly, they no longer run on Nevsky, which
disconnects them from much of the centre. They have set
departure points, but otherwise, when you see the number
you want, just hail it down like a taxi. To pay, hand your fare
(up to 36Rbl) to the driver or to the person in front of you.
When you want to get off, yell out loudly, ostanovite pozhaluista, and the driver will come to a screeching halt.

TaxiS
Taxis in St. Petersburg are relatively cheap. If you phone a
legitimate taxi company, youll be quoted an exact price for
the journey. Unfortunately, not all of these companies have
English-speaking operators but in many big companies
you can book a taxi online:
Angel Taxi, (+7) 812 777 20 10, www.angel-taxi.com
Taxi 068, tel. (+7) 812 068, www.taxi068.ru
Taxi 7000000, tel. (+7) 812 700 00 00, www.taxi7000000.ru
New Yellow Taxi, (+7) 812 600 88 88, www.peterburg.
nyt.ru
December 2014 - January 2015

City Basics
Be on guard!
Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking
loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets
if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab,
or Asian descent exercise caution, particularly at night.
02 - Emergency hotline. If you have problems and
dont speak Russian it may be better to call the English language tourist helpine 8 800 303 05 55 and
(+7) 812 303 05 55.
The Tourist Information office, Ul. Sadovaya 14, can
help you file a police report. Your consulate can help
you if your passport has been stolen. The police here
generally look for any excuse to fine you, so photocopy
your passport and visa. Make sure that you always carry
a few photocopies; if the police stop you (they check
Russians all the time too) then show them the photocopy rather than the original.

Registration
Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of
your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24
hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you.
If you dont get registered on time, you can expect serious
problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.

Money
The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come
in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble
coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a
rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. Its illegal to
pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations,
banks and large hotels.

Foreigner Prices
The foreigner price is a hangover from the good old days
of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and
museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times
more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist
that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the
real price. If you have a document (propusk), which says you
work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.

Alcohol
The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka.
The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovetskoe shampanskoe
(Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note
that you cannot buy alcohol above 0,5% in shops between
22:00 and 11:00.
8

St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Language
useful phrases

pocket dictionary:
Vatrushka
A vatrushka is a sweet
doughnut shaped Russian
pastry, which is typically
filled with sweet cottage
cheese (tvorog) or jam.
Their western equivalent is
often said to be the Danish
pastry, although Russian
vatrushki are made with a
yeastier bread dough and
can also be found with savoury fillings. In honour of their resemblance to the sweet
treat, those giant inflatable rubber rings which kids and
adults like to bound down snowy hillsides on are also called
vatrushka.

numbers
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10

adin
dva
tri
chetyre
pyat
shest
sem
vosem
devyat
desyat

11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20

adinatsat
dvinatsat
trinatsat
chetyrnatsat
pyatnatsat
shesnatsat
semnatsat
vosemnatsat
devyatnatsat
dvatsat

30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
500
1000

tritsat
sorok
pyatdesyat
shesdesyat
semdesyat
vosemdesyat
devyanosta
sto
pyatsot
tysicha

alphabet

A
B
V
G
D
E
YO
ZH

Z
I
Y
K
L
M
N
O

P
R
S
T
U
F
KH
TS

CH
SH
SHCH
Y
E
YU
YA
no sound

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Basic frases
No/Yes
Hello
Goodbye
Thank you
Sorry/excuse me
Please
I don't understand
Do you speak
English?
Help!
I don't want

Net/da
Zdrastvuite
Dasvidaniya
Spasibo
Izvinite
Pazhalusta
Ya ne panimayu
Vy gavaritye
pa-anglisky?
Pomogitye!
Ya ne khachu
Mnye (ne)
I (don't) like it
nravitsa
May I?
Mozhno?
Do you have...?
U vas est?
I don't know
Ya ne znayu
How much is it? Skolko stoit?
Good
Khorosho
Today
Sevodnya
Tomorrow
Zaftra
Toilets
Tualet
Ostanavite
Stop here please
pazhalusta
When?
Kogda?
What time is it? Katory chas?
Of course
Koneshno
Happy Holidays! S Praznikom!
Password
Parol



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The St. Petersburg Times is the premier English-language newspaper in St. Petersburg, Russia. Published
weekly, the newspaper covers local, national and international news as well as business, the arts, sports,
entertainment and much else that is of interest to both
residents and visitors to Russias cultural capital.
Issued every Wednesday, the paper features expert
commentary on the countrys changing political and
economic landscape and provides valuable insight
into the issues that frequently grab the worlds attention. Available at St. Petersburgs top hotels, restaurants
and business centers citywide, as well as at important
international events.
December 2014 - January 2015

Culture & Events


Welcome to the cultural capital of Russia! After spending a
day hoofing it through the finest museums and historical locations, you can watch a play, ballet, opera, circus
performance, rock or pop concerts any and every night
you choose.

theatres
Alexandrinsky Theatre
QE-3, Pl. Ostrovskogo 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312
15 45, www.alexandrinsky.ru.
Mariinsky Theatre
QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 326
41 41, www.mariinsky.ru.
Mikhailovsky Theatre
QD-2, Pl. Iskusstv 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 43
19, www.mikhailovsky.ru.
Saint Petersburg Opera
QC-3, Galernaya ul. 33, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315
67 69, www.spbopera.ru.

DEcember events
04.12 Thursday
19:00 Aquarium
Boris Grebenshchikov, the Father of Russian Rock, and
his celebrated group Aquarium kick off their most recent
tour of Russia with a concert in their home city. Grebenshchikovs over 40-year career has taken him from underground concerts in Leningrad apartments all the way to
worldwide fame. Grebenshchikovs current sound deftly
pulls from a wide variety of genres - from reggae to American folk. Performing with the rock legend are longtime
Aquarium members and collaborators Alexander Titov,
Aleksey Zubarev and Andrey Surotdinov, as well as keyboardist Boris Rubekin, percussionist Oleg Shavkunov, Irish
flutist Brian Finnegan and British rock brothers, Paul and
Jeremy Stacey.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50,
www.aquarium.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 7,000Rbl.

concert halls and clubs


Aurora concert hall
QE-1, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2, MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7)
812 907 19 17, www.aurora-hall.ru.
Club A2
QD-1, Pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812
309 99 22, www.a2.fm.
Club Cosmonavt
QD-4, Bronnitskaya ul. 24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.cosmonavt.su.
Grand Philharmonic Hall
QD-2, Mikhailovskaya ul. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
710 42 90, www.philharmonia.spb.ru.
Jazz Philharmonic Hall
QE-3, Zagorodny pr. 27, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812
764 85 65, www.jazz-hall.spb.ru.
JFC Jazz Club
QE-2, Shpalernaya ul. 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7)
812 272 98 50, jfc-club.spb.ru.
Jimi Hendrix Blues Club
QE-2, Liteiny pr. 33, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812
579 88 13, www.hendrix-club.ru.
Ledovy Dvorets
QPr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 718
66 20, www.newarena.spb.ru.
Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall (BKZ)
QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 275
13 00, www.bkz.ru.
Sport Concert Complex (SKK)
QPr. Gagarina 8, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 812 378 17
10, www.spbckk.ru.
Yubileiny Sports Palace
QC-2, Pr. Dobrolyubova 18, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7)
812 702 36 22, www.yubi.ru.
Zal Ozhidaniya
QE-4, Nab. Obvodnogo kanala 118, MBaltiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 333 10 68, www.clubzal.com.
10 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

04.12 Thursday
20:00 Andru Donalds
Jamaican born singer/songwriter Andru Donalds is known
today as a lead vocalist in the German musical project
Enigma. However, Enigma is a studio-only group, so its
truly a rare and valuable chance to hear one of the groups
most beautiful voices live in concert. Donalds has both
the natural talent and high-level of training that make a
vocalist truly great. Even before his Enigma days, Donalds
solo-produced singles, including Mishale and Save Me
Now, became worldwide hits. His solo work was also included in the soundtracks of the Oscar-winning American
film Good Will Hunting and German blockbuster Barfuss.
QDK Gorkogo, pl. Stachek 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812
303 33 33, www.facebook.com/andrudonalds. Tickets
1,320 - 3,850Rbl.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events


04.12 Thursday
20:00 Enrique Iglesias
Its going to be a hot winter in St. Petersburg this
year, as one of the worlds
most famous Spanish singers prepares to bring his
passion to Russia. Enrique
Iglesias musical career
has developed tremendously over the last few
years, and he has become
a true phenomenon in the
world of music. Touring to
promote his tenth studio album Sex and Love, Enrique
has branched out into new genres to reach a wider audience. Sex and Love also features guest performances by
other famous artists including Kiley Minogue and Flo Rida.
Lets just hope the Ice Palace can stand the heat.QLedovy
Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7)
812 380 80 50, www.enriqueiglesias.com. Tickets 1,500
- 10,000Rbl.
05.12 Friday
20:00 Leningrad
Sergei Shnurov, or Shnur, is known for being a rock
pioneer - as front man of the Ska-punk band Leningrad
since 1997, Shnur has never been afraid to go where no
man has gone before. Hes been known to perform naked,
use more profanities in his lyrics than seems possible, and
generally voice what many may be thinking, but for whatever reason wont say aloud. Leave your shy head bobbing
at home and get ready for a high-energy performance
where Shnurs gravelly voice and Leningrads beloved
brass section are sure to make you more than just tap your
feet.QLedovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.sosimc.ru. Tickets
1,000 - 4,000Rbl.
05.12 Friday
23:00 DJ Format
From the streets of Brighton, England, UK hip-hop
artist Matt Ford, better
known as DJ Format, arrives in St. Petersburg this
December for a night of
beats and rhymes at Birzha
Bar. DJ Format, whose
debut album Music for
the Mature B-Boy was
released in 2002, is known
around the world for his
mix of old school hip-hop beats, funk and soul as well as,
in his most recent work, psychedelic rock, jazz and blues.
He frequently collaborates with Canadian rapper/hip-hop
artists Abdominal and D-sisive.QC-2, Birzha Bar, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 925 88 06,
www.djformat.com. Tickets 500Rbl.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

THE ART OF NATURAL THERAPY

A SANCTUARY
OF SERENITY
AND SENSES
WORLD KNOWN HOLISTIC SPA
IN THE HEART OF THE CITY
Nevsky Centre, 6 floor, Nevsky pr,114-116
+7 812 449 08 36, +7 911 293 00 27
www.thann-spa.ru
06.12 Saturday
19:00 Zveri
Since their creation in 2001, the pop-rock group Zveri
has played over 900 concerts, journeyed more than
one million kilometres and won numerous Russian and
foreign awards. The bands name, literally Beasts in
Russian, comes from the nickname of lead singer, Roma
Zver. For the past year, the group has traveled to places
theyd never been before. But they made sure to save
their most exciting show of the year for Piter. Not only
is Saturday night the bands last show of the year, but
it is also the eve of Romas 37th birthday. So come help
them celebrate, Petersburg-style.QLedovy Dvorets, pr.
Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50,
www.zve.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 2,500Rbl.

December 2014 - January 2015

11

Culture & Events


06.12 Saturday
20:00 Matisyahu
As a devoutly Orthodox reggae rapper, Matthew Miller,
better known by his Hebrew
stage name Matisyahu, is
truly in a league of his own.
The world-acclaimed musician is known for his unique
style and sound, incorporating biblical and Orthodox
Jewish themes into a blend
of reggae, rock, hip-hop
and traditional Jewish music. In 2011, Matisyahu shaved
his famous beard as part of his personal journey into a new
spiritual and artistic phase of his life. His latest album Akedah, the name for the biblical story of the binding of Isaac,
was recorded in Israel and released in June 2014.QD-1, Club
A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99
22, www.matisyahuworld.com. Tickets 1,000 - 3,500Rbl.
06.12 Saturday
20:00 Nina Karlsson
Singer Nina Karlsson was
born in St. Petersburg and
graduated from the Saint
Petersburg Conservatory.
Her voice, however, is more
than just highly-trained.
Since 2008 she has been
performing her unique fusion of jazz, rock and folk.
Her incredible voice can
move between a wide
range of almost physical sensations and textures, from utter tenderness and delicacy to unbridled power. Come to
her concert for her and her bands musical talent, but stay
for the atmosphere she will undoubtedly create - a warm,
inviting, gentle and fun-loving performer, shes absolutely
guaranteed to warm your heart on a cold winters night.
QC-2, Birzha Bar, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 925 88 06, www.ninakarlsson.com.
Tickets 500 - 700Rbl.
06.12 Saturday
20:00 Tiger Lillies
To confine the British trio to a single musical genre would be
an injustice - part surreal vaudeville, part Brechtian cabaret
and part gypsy punk is a passable start. Add to the mix lead
vocalist and founder Martyn Jacques haunting and sorrowful falsetto and the trios wide assortment of instruments,
including accordian and saw, and you have a recipe for a
twisted, garish good time. The band arrives in St. Petersburg with one of their latest albums, entitled Either Or. If
youre curious what a night that combines blasphemous
clownery and Kierkagardian philosphy looks like, be sure
to save the date.QD-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul.
24, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33,
www.tigerlillies.com. Tickets 1,300 - 2,500Rbl.
12 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

07.12 Sunday
19:00 Dima Bilan
The first Russian to win the Eurovision song contest with
his single Believe me (2008), Dima Bilan has since won
over millions of fans with his powerful voice, heart-felt lyrics and rugged good looks. Bilans latest show is named
in honor of his age: he turns 33 at the end of December.
But, as Bilan surely knows, 33 is no random number, but an
historically magical and powerful one. The show promises
to live up to its magical portent: Bilan hasnt revealed all
the details of the performance yet, leaving room to dazzle
his guests.QLedovy Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50, www.bilandima.ru.
Tickets 1,500 - 3,000Rbl.
12.12 Friday
20:00 Einstrzende Neubauten
For the first time after an
almost seven-year pause,
the legendary German
p os t- in dus t r ial - n o is e experimental-electronic
group celebrates the recent release of their latest
project, Lament. The new
album is a product of the
groups years of research
on the First World War,
composed of and inspired by historical fragments from
their findings, which have been pieced together into a
performative production. The album also exemplifies the
groups use of alternative sound-generating objects that
create their particular, difficult to categorize sound. Take
note, Lament was chiefly designed for live performance,
since the experience of the project is more than just an
aural one.QD-1, Club A2, pr. Medikov 3, MPetrogradskaya, tel. (+7) 812 309 99 22, www.neubauten.org. Tickets 1,500 - 2,600Rbl.
12.12 Friday
20:00 Natalia Oreiro
The Uruguayan actress
and singer occupies a special place in the hearts of
many Russians. Oreiro first
gained her fame, and her
Russian fanbase, acting in
several popular Argentinean soap operas in the 90s.
She kicked off her musical
career with the release of
her first solo album in 1998.
Since then, she has gone on to build her career in film and
music, landing leading roles and playing sold out concerts
all over the world. For the many Russians who grew up
watching and listening to Oreiro, this concert will be a
chance for both nostalgia and surprise.QLedovy Dvorets,
pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80
50, www.nataliaoreiro.com. Tickets 1,500 - 4,000Rbl.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events


13.12 Saturday
19:00 Vanessa Mae
Think winter fairytales and
Christmas miracles. Against
a backdrop of snow-dusted
mountains, world-renowned
violinist and Olympic alpine skier Vanessa-Mae will
perform works from the
great composers, including
Vivaldi, Bach and Paganini,
accompanied by a string
orchestra and choir. The
princess of violin launched her musical career at the tender
age of nine. She has since grown from child prodigy to fullfledged star, not to mention Olympic athlete. She has both
mastered the classical violin as well as created her very own
contemporary sound, what she calls violin techno-acoustic
fusion, which has won her prestigious awards and honors
around the world.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert Hall,
Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80 50,
www.vanessamae.com. Tickets 900 - 5,000Rbl.

16.12 Tuesday
20:00 Splean
One the most-loved bands in Russia and the former Soviet bloc since 1994, Splean is a pop-/alt-rock group whose
evolving sound has never failed to impress its listeners. This
year, Splean released a new album, Resonance, in two
parts, which the band is promoting on their current tour.
Continuing the bands tradition of literary play (Splean is
a reference to a poem by Sasha Cherny), Part One of Resonance is chock full of literary and musical allusions. However, nothing too esoteric; discussing the new album, bandleader Alexander Vasilyev highlights its simplicity of form,
mentioning Borges philosophies for comparison.QLedovy
Dvorets, pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812
380 80 50, www.splean.ru. Tickets 1,000 - 3,500Rbl.

13.12 Saturday
19:00 Diana Arbenina
For Diana Arbenina and her band Nochnie Snauperi, 2014
has been a year of celebrations. Arbenina celebrated her
40th birthday, released her first solo album, and performed in strange and new places, like in an Amsterdam
church and on a Moscow rooftop. Not to mention, the
group, which Arbenina co-founded in 1993, restructured
at the end of last year, and has since been creating new
songs and rearranging old ones. Help welcome them back
to their home city, where they will be performing in Petersburgs Ice Palace for the first time.QLedovy Dvorets,
pr. Pyatiletok 1, MPr. Bolshevikov, tel. (+7) 812 380 80
50, www.snipers.net. Tickets 1,000 - 5,000Rbl.

19.12 Friday
20:00 Evgenia Zima Band
Evgenia Zima - vocalist, violinist and self-proclaimed cultivator of band drive - calls
her bands music a cocktail
of sounds and euphoria.
Theyre known for their vibrant, emotionally-charged,
fuzzy jazz sound that transports audiences to the forgotten realm of childhood
imagination and memory - to
happiness in its pure form. The band uses instruments and
languages from many cultures, while also infusing their music
with a mix of genres, including rythmn blues, hip-hop and
swing. The best place to experience the Petersburg-based
groups undeniably good vibes would be in an intimate venue in their home city - just what Birzha Bar has to offer.QC-2,
Birzha Bar, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 925 88 06, www.zimaband.ru. Tickets TBA.

15.12 Monday
20:00 AYO

20.12 Saturday
19:00 Emin

She was born in Germany


as Joy Olasunmibo Ogunmakin and later took the
Yoruba translation of her
name, Ayo, in honor of her
Nigerian roots. The singersongwriter is known for her
smooth, soulful voice and
heart-wrenching lyrics. Her
style is a mesmerizing medley of soul, jazz, folk, reggae and rock. Her debut album Joyful
(2006) received Double-Platinum, Patinum and Gold statuses
in Europe. Not only has AYOs musical talent received international recognition, but her humanitarion efforts have also been
honored: in 2009 she was appointed international ambassador of UNICEF for the promotion of the right to education
for all children.QD-4, Club Cosmonavt, Bronnitskaya ul. 24,
MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 303 33 33, www.
ayomusic.com. Tickets 1,200 - 2,500Rbl.

Born in Baku and raised in


Moscow, it was in the US
that Emins career got a significant boost when he got
to experience his first live
performance. Emins music spans a wide range of
genres, taking in everything
from dance with a dash of
electronic to classical ballads. With a cv including performances at Eurovision an opening set for Jennifer Lopez,
not to mention a handful of Grammy nominations, Emin
has certainly earned his stripes as an artist. His new album
Amor combines Spanish flamenco and guitar music to create a flavourful mix of music dedicated to the most important feeling of all - love.QE-3, Oktyabrsky Grand Concert
Hall, Ligovsky pr. 6, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 380 80
50, www.emin-music.com. Tickets 600 - 3,500Rbl.

www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

December 2014 - January 2015

13

Culture & Events


21.12 Sunday
Johann Strauss Snow White Ball Show
If you appreciate classical music and dance, the Johann
Strauss Snow White Ball Show is the one event this season
that you really dont want to miss. Featuring some of Russias finest solo artists and dance groups, the show aims
to create a magical evening for all of its guests, and if you
come dressed in white you will even receive a special New
Years gift. Do not expect to just sit and watch the show,
as well-known compositions such as the Radetzky March
will allow you to participate in this spectacle. If you have
plans to celebrate the holiday season in St. Petersburg,
keep an eye out for this event.QDK Gorkogo, pl. Stachek
4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 252 75 13, www.gorkogo.
spb.ru. Tickets 600 - 2,500Rbl.

cinema
If you are looking for a night at the movies without
having to play some sophisticated form of charades
to work out whats going on - we have good news for
you. There are now cinemas in St. Petersburg that show
movies in English or their original language. If you are
looking for a truly English experience you cant pass
up a screening at the Angleterre which now shows
all movies in English with Russian subtitles. Formula
Kino also show some films in English as does Avrora.
Dom Kino shows art house movies and you can expect
to come across movies in all sorts of languages. So if
you want to chill out with a good movie in English or
practice one of your other languages, check out these
cinemas and enjoy a night at the movies.
Angleterre Cinema Lounge
QD-3, Hotel Angleterre, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24,
MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 59 90, www.
angleterrecinema.ru.
Avrora
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 60, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 942
80 20, www.avrora.spb.ru.
Dom Kino
QE-3, Karavannaya ul. 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 314 56 14, www.domkino.spb.ru.
Formula Kino Galeria
QE-3, Galeria Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30A,
MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 800 250 80 25, www.
formulakino.ru.
14 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

27.12 Saturday - 29.11 Saturday


The Ugly Duckling

This New Years the creators of Darwin the Dinosaur return to St. Petersburg for another brilliant performance.
The American troupe Lightwire Theater presents their
show The Ugly Duckling, based on the beloved fable
by Hans Christian Andersen. The touching, timeless story
is brought to life by the incredible technical mastery of
Lightwire Theaters signature electroluminescent puppetry. The entire show, including the opening act, a staging of The Tortoise and the Hare, is performed without
words, in the universal language of gesture, emotion and
music. The show is extremely family friendly, especially
suited for children ages three to eight.QDK Gorkogo, pl.
Stachek 4, MNarvskaya, tel. (+7) 812 918 85 17, www.
lightwiretheater.com. Tickets 900 - 1,900Rbl.

Exhibitions
through 13.09.2015 Sunday
The ball roars, the ball gleams
St. Petersburg Social Entertainment
in the 18th-20th centuries
With over 300 displays from the State Museum of St. Petersburg History and the Russian National Library, this exhibition
submerges visitors in the infamous center of the Imperial
capitals social life - the ball. At the heart of the exhibit are the
splendor and luxury of ball attire and accessories. Photographs, posters and advertisements are also on display and
demonstrate the incredible variety of Petersburg balls over
time, from the Imperial through the early Soviet eras. The exhibit also features interactive events, including lectures on the
history of ball attire and master classes, where you can learn
to dance the waltz or communicate in the secret language of
fans and decorative flowers.QD-2, Peter and Paul Fortress,
MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.
ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Tickets 80 - 150Rbl.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events


through 27.12 Saturday
Tim Parshikov. Kotlovan
Like Andrey Platonovs symbolic novel of the same name,
Time Parshikovs solo photography exhibit, Kotlovan
(translated as the foundation pit), tells the story of a postindustrial factory city. In Parshikovs case, it is the city of
Magnitogorsk in the Southern Urals. The city was the first
monogorod - a city built for a factory - in the USSR, a product of Stalins first Five-Year Plan. Today Manitogorsk is one
of the dirtiest cities in the world and its almost half a million residents live under a sky screened by factory smog. In
his photographs, Parshikov captures the post-apocalyptic
atmosphere of a city in which time seems to have come to
a standstill.QD-4, Marina Gisich Gallery, Nab. reky Fontanky 121, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 314 43 80, www.
gisich.com. Open Mon - Fri 11:00 - 19:00. Admission free.

through 14.01 Wednesday


St. Petersburg in the work of 19th
century German Photographers
Part of the history of St. Petersburg is the history of the citys
representation in foreign art. The photographic exhibition
currently on display in the Peter and Paul Fortress was organized within the context of the project Fotorossika, whose
goal is the study of foreign-produced photo-iconography of
Russia. The work of German photographers of the Imperial
capital plays a particularly significant role in the formation
of the 19th-early 20th century photo-iconography of the
city. The exhibition is composed of about 80 photographs
of the city, taken by four 19th century German photographers, who worked in widely different genres, including
photo-portraiture and reportage.QD-2, Peter and Paul
Fortress, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.
spbmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed.

www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

MONET to cezanne

20.11 Thursday - 31.03 Tuesday


Monet to Cezanne the French Impressionists
From the creators and organizers of Van Gogh Alive
comes a new multimedia exhibition-event - the world
premier of Monet to Cezanne - the French Impressionists. St. Petersburg will be the first city in the world to
view this stunning new project by Australian company
Grand Exhibitions, brought to St. Petersburg by IVision,
the companys exclusive Russian representatives. The
exhibition breaks far beyond the boundaries of the
usual gallery-spectator experience. Using the latest
SENSORY 4 TM technology, including large-scale projections on dozens of screens, multi-channel animated
graphics and surround sound, the gallery-space is utterly transformed into an immersive, participatory experience, where the viewer is able to literally step into and
walk through the painted worlds of the French Impressionist masters. Projections of pieces by Monet, Renoir,
Degas, Cezanne and others reveal subtle details and
unexpected angles and transport viewers back to the
streets of 19th century Paris, re-creating the bright bohemian atmosphere with colors, light and shadow, accompanied by the music of Debussy, Tchaikovsky, Ravel
and Offenbach. Not only is the show completely immersive - it is also interactive: keep your eye out for the livefeed Twitter-wall (#monet2cezanne) and the School
of Impressionism art-zone, where you can make your
own attempts to paint like the masters.QB-3, Lenexpo
Exhibition Complex, VO, Bolshoy pr. 103, pavilion 3,
MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 921 791 58 28. Open
11:00 - 21:00, Thu - Sun 11:00 - 23:00. Tickets 350Rbl,
Sat and Sun 450Rb. Family ticket (2 adults plus 1 or 2
kids) 900/1,000Rbl, Sat and Sun 1,000/1,100Rbl.

December 2014 - January 2015

15

Culture & Events


through 03.02 Tuesday
dedication to Mikhail Matyushin
The Museum of the Petersburg Avant-garde presents
an exhibition honoring 80
years since the death of
Russian painter, art theorist,
musician, composer and
teacher, Mikhail Vasilevich
Matyushin. Matyushin was
born in Nizhny Novgorod
in 1861. In the 1910s-20s, he
was an active participant in
the Russian Futurist movement and with his own group Zorved experimented with
perceptions of color, form and space, forming the foundational principles of the organic school of the Russian avantgarde. The current exhibition in Matyushins honor features
28 pieces from eleven artists, in whose works are visible
contemporary re-workings of ideas and principles that Matyushin introduced and developed in the beginning of the
20th century.QD-1, Museum of the St. Petersburg Avantgarde, ul. Professora Popova 10, MPetrogradskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 347 68 98, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 18:00, Fri 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Wed. Tickets 60 - 100Rbl.
through 01.03 Sunday
Alexander Samokhvalov. 1894-1971
The Russian Museum presents a solo exhibition of the
works of Soviet painter Alexander Nikolaevich Samokhvalov (1894-1971). The exhibition is a full retrospective of
the artists works, consisting of over 250 pieces. Samokhvalov is best known for his work during the 1920s-1930s,
when he painted his most recognized monumental patriotic paintings of Soviet youth and the New Soviet Person.
Though the exhibition will pay special attention to this
fundamental period of Samokhvalovs work, it will also
display the full breadth of his artistic mastery, including
his work in mediums other than painting and graphic art,
such as sculpture, porcelain painting, posters and architectural drawings.QD-2, Russian Museum, Benois Wing,
nab. kan. Griboedova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595
42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu
13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Tickets 150 - 350Rbl.

03.12 Wednesday - 01.02 Sunday


Drevlekhranilishche: Archive
of Monuments of Russian Icon-painting
and Ecclesiastical Art
The Russian Museum presents an exhibition in celebration of 100 years since
the opening of the Drevlekhranilishche in honor
of Emporer Nikolai II. The
exhibition of around 600
works tells the story of the
formation of the Museums
collection of ecclesiastical antiques from 1897 to
1914. Before the museum
first opened its doors in
1898, and until 1914, the Museums collection of ancient
icons and ecclesiastical pieces grew, both from private
donations and from state-sanctioned searches for ancient
pieces. The works will be grouped according to the collections they came from and the exhibition space is designed
to recreate the atmosphere of the first Museum exhibitions in 1898 and 1914.QD-2, Russian Museum, Benois
Wing, nab. kan. Griboedova 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Tickets 150 - 350Rbl.
06.12 Saturday - 30.01 Friday
Samurai. 47 Ronin
A rnin is a samurai with
no master. The 18th century Japanese legend of
the 47 rnin is a tragic and
powerful story of revenge
and honor. On December
6th, the St. Petersburg Artillery Museum presents
an immersive, interactive
exhibition-project that will
transport visitors to the
world of ancient Japan,
where the legend of the 47 rnin took place. The exhibition brings together rare displays, never-before-seen artifacts, and the best pieces from the preceding exhibition,
Samurai. The Art of War. In a recreated Edo city, visitors
are invited to participate in expert-led master classes,
dress in traditional Samurai costumes, use the Samurai
sword, learn calligraphy, origami, engraving and kimono
wearing.QD-2, Artillery Museum, Aleksandrovsky park
7 (entrance from Kronverkskaya nab.), MGorkovskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 610 33 01, www.artillery-museum.ru. Open
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Tickets 150 - 400Rbl.

For all the latest concert, event and


exhibition news follow us on facebook at
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket
16 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Features

St. Petersburg Theatre life


It would be a shame to come to Russias cultural capital and
not partake in any of the citys wide array of theater, music
and dance offerings. This winter season the city is brimming with holiday cheer and festive New Years season productions. Now is the time to catch an unforgettable show
at an unforgettable venue.
If youve heard anything about St. Petersburg, you will
have heard of the legendary Mariinsky Theatre
(www.mariinsky.ru). Opened in 1860 and now in its
232nd season, the theatre was home to premieres of
works by many of the Russian greats, like Tchaikovsky,
Mussorgsky and Rimsky Korsakov. On the site of a burnt
down Equestrian Circus, the architect Albert Cavos designed a new opera and ballet theatre to be the largest
of its kind in the world, with a full capacity of 1,625. In
1886, after the Bolshoy Kamenny Theatre was deemed
unsafe, Mariinsky was lavishly renovated as the new
home of the Imperial Ballet and played host to many of
premiere shows from the master choreographer, Marius
Petipa. Originally named after Empress Maria Alexandrovna, wife of Tsar Alexander II, the theatre was known
throughout most of the Soviet era as the Kirov Theatre,
but changed to its present name, the State Academic
Mariinsky Theatre, in 1992. The world renowned conductor Valery Gergiev has presided over affairs there since
1988, meeting the Russian publics high demand with a
stream of almost constant concerts. Since 2007, Gergiev
has had to juggle his role at the Mariinsky with another
prestigious role as Principal Conductor of the London
Symphony Orchestra, making him one of the busiest and
certainly best travelled conductors around today.
Those looking for a classic holiday Mariinsky experience will
jump straight to this seasons production of Tchaikovskys
masterpiece, The Nutcracker. The ballet first premiered in
the then Kirov Theatre on February 18, 1934. This season,
the ballet will be performed by the Vaganova Academy of
Russian Ballet, with Vasily Vainonens 1934 choreography.
Delighting generations of viewers, young and old, The Nutcracker is the perfect festive treat for the whole family. For
the holiday-minded but more opera-inclined, the Mariinsky
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offers a production of Rimsky-Korsakovs opera Christmas


Eve, which first premiered at the Mariinsky on December
10, 1895, though this particular production only premiered
on December 31, 2008. The show will open December 17th
and will be performed in Russian with synchronised English subtitles. For the less holiday-inspired, the Mariinsky
presents its production of the timeless classic Swan Lake.
Inspired by the ballet writing of Delibes, Tchaikovsky composed most of the ballet in just one year, using the idea
of Leitmotif, famously made popular in Wagners operatic
writing, to bring out distinctive melodies weaving the story
together. Despite the premiere in 1877 being something of
a flop, the ballets enduring popularity means it will surely
never leave the Mariinsky. This years production is based
on the Kirov Theatres own 1950 premiere of Konstantin
Sergeyevs choreography. More from the revered Tchaikovsky comes in the form of the opera Eugene Onegin, the
Kirovs own 1982 version, with helpful English subtitles to
guide you through the full length of this Russian masterpiece. Also appearing on Mariinskys main stage this winter
is Marius Petipas version of the fantasy ballet Giselle, with
music from Adolphe Adam.

In recent years, the Mariinsky has begun to colonise the


surrounding area - the sleek contemporary walls of glass
which peer out behind the back of the main theatre constitute the halls sparkling new younger brother, the Mariinsky II. The halls interior curves back in a horseshoe
shape from the main stage with clean lines and wood
paneling, and the fantastic new acoustics and technology
have been duly noted by all reviewers. The bright interior
breathes elegance over a crowd enjoying a glass of preDecember 2014 - January 2015

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Features
concert champagne and the performances themselves
range from classic repertoire to more contemporary works
completely at home in the setting.
This season, the Mariinsky II proudly presents its own new
version of Tchaikovskys Eugene Onegin, premiered in February 2014 as a co-production with the National Centre for
the Performing Arts (Beijing). A marriage of the music of
the celebrated Russian composer Rodion Shchedrin and
the choreographer Aleksey Ratmansky appears on the
Mariinsky IIs new playbill in the form of the ballet Anna
Karenina, based on Tolstoys novel, with Ratmanskys 2010
choreography. A production of Puccinis Madama Butterfly,
which premiered at the Mariinsky in 2005, will run several
performances over the winter, ranking seventh in the most
performed operas worldwide. This fall, the Mariinsky hosted the world premiere of director Alain Maratrats production of Rossinis Il Barbiere di Siviglia, widely regarded as the
opera buffa of all opere buffe. The opera will be performed
through December 21st.

However, the new addition to the family, the Mariinsky II,


ought not to overshadow the Mariinsky Concert Hall,
just a stones throw away on Ulitsa Dekabristov- a world
class chamber concert hall in its own right. Opened in
2006 on the site of the hundred-year-old set workshops for
the Mariinsky Theatre, which were damaged in a fire, the
halls contemporary interior makes for the highest-quality
acoustics, while still retaining the old facade that survived
the fire. The hall competes with the finest contemporary
concert halls worldwide, such as Berlins Philharmonie, the
Birmingham Symphony Hall and the Lucerne Concert Hall,
and caters to the demands of a Mariinsky programme now
spilling over three venues.
The hall as usual features high profile acts from around the
world as well as the resident Mariinsky orchestra, where classic
Wagner Galas and Russian favourites will be the stars of the
show. Benjamin Brittens opera A Midsummer Nights Dream
returns to the Concert Hall after its premiere there in 2011 - entering the standard repertoire soon after its premiere in 1960,
it is an exponent of Brittens very specific subtle style, while not
being overtly dissonant. This season the Concert Hall will host
the International Piano Festival, which opens on December
22nd and runs until December 28th. The festival opens with a
not-to-be-missed performance of works by Rimsky-Korsakov,
Rachmaninoff and Scriabin, conducted by theatre director
Valery Gergiev and featuring soloist Daniil Trifonov on piano.
The modern Concert Halls impressive acoustics will hopefully
ensure that the festival continues for years to come.
18 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

The lavish luxury of the Mikhailovsky Theatre (www.


mikhailovsky.ru) echoes the elegance of the Mariinsky
and, with an admirable history from its founding in 1833,
can proudly declare itself one of Russias most distinguished performance venues. Named after Grand Duke
Mikhail Pavlovich of Russia, the theatre was established
after a decree from Tsar Nicholas I, and played host to visiting French companies until the Bolsheviks took power
in 1917. In a somewhat contentious move, the Russian
businessman Vladimir Kekhman was appointed as the
theatres General Director, and fortunately poured 1 billion
roubles into the theatres refurbishment before winding
up bankrupt in London in 2012.
This winter season, the theatre presents a host of exciting
recently-premiered shows and events. The opera Manon
Lescaut, considered one of Giacomo Puccinis finest works,
which premiered at the Mikhailovsky in October, returns to
the stage on December 2nd and 3rd. The opera was originally staged in 1893 in Turin and the libretto is based on the
1753 novel Lhistoire du Chevalier des Grieux et de Manon
Lescaut by the Abb Prvost. The Mikhailovskys new production of the piece, created by Jurgen Flimm and George
Tsypin, adapts the operas setting from eighteenth century
to early twentieth century Paris. The original emotional
content of the opera is retained, but presented afresh with
film noir-esque lighting, set design and costumes.
Just a week after this incredible premiere, on December
11, the Theatre presents the last staging for the year of
the opera masterpiece Il trovatore, which premiered at the
Mikhailovsky in November. This particular production, created by Dmitri Tcherniakov, was first staged in 2012 at the
La Monnaie Theatre in Brussels and became one of Europes
most widely discussed opera productions.
On the 5th and 7th of December, the theatre presents
international ballet project Kings of Dance, presenting
work from dancers and choreographers from all over the
planet. Family favorites at Mikhailovsky this Decmber include a production of The Nutcracker, with choreography
by Nacho Duato, as well as Karen Khachaturians childrens
ballet Cipollino, which will no doubt be a popular Sunday
hit for the younger generations. In addition, an operatic
production of Grimms classic fairytale, Hansel and Gretel,
premieres on December 13th. Finally, on December 31st,
The Mikhailovsky presents its by now traditional New Year
Gala Concert. The celebratory concert begins just six hours
before the start of 2015 and promises festive surprises and
lots of pre-New Years energy.

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This fall saw the premier of the theatrical masterpiece,
Memories of the future, based on Mikhail Lermontovs
original drama Masquerade. This production is directed
by the Alexandrinskys artistic director and peoples artist
of Russia, Valery Fokin, and was carefully re-constructed
and staged following Vsevolod Meyerholds 1917 performance. This incredible project provided the opening
performance for the theatres Eighth International Theatre
Festival in celebration of 200 years since Mikhail Lermontovs birth. Be sure not to miss your chance to see this exciting and important production this winter season.
The dazzling white columns and glittering chandeliers of
the St. Petersburg Shostakovich Academic Philharmonia (www.philharmonia.spb.ru) distinguishes
the space before the music even starts. The architecturally notable venue has seen some of the finest performers from not only Russia but all over the world since the
1840s and continues to offer high-class performances. A
busy forthcoming programme includes chamber music,
orchestral works and jazz, featuring many international
acts and both of the halls residents, the St. Petersburg
Philharmonic or Symphony Orchestras.
The coming months include a wide array of jazz and classic
performances, a celebration of the 100th anniversary of Avenir Mikhailov, another celebration of the 150th anniversary
of Alexander Siloti, a festival from the St. Petersburg Philharmonic Orchestra, running from December 14th to December
25th, as well as a Festive New Years Concert performed by
the State Hermitage Orchestra with baritone Vasily Garello
and a New Years Eve Concert on December 30th and 31st by
the St. Petersburg Symphony Orchestra.

The Tovstonogov Bolshoy Drama Theatre,


or BDT (www.bdt.spb.
ru), on the Fontanka takes
its name from Georgy
Tovstonogov, the theatres
highly regarded director
from 1956 to 1989, and is
considered one of the finest theatres in Russia. Pioneered by Maxim Gorky,
Maria Andreeva, Alexander
Blok and Anatoly Lunacharsky after the 1917 revolution,
the Osobaya Drammaticheskaya Truppa (Special Drama
Company) debuted in 1918 with the intention of staging
classics for the masses, and eventually found its permanent home at 65 Fontanka embankment, at the former
Suvorin Theatre. This September, the BDT celebrated its
reopening after several years of closure for renovation and
reconstruction. Make sure to visit the theatre and experience this seasons offerings in the newly-renovated space.

The title of oldest Russian national theatre is one that the


legendary Alexandrinsky Theatre (www.alexandrinsky.ru) can boast. Established on August 30 1756, the
day of Saint Alexander Nevsky, the theatre was originally
named after Alexandra Fyodorovna, wife of Nikolai I. The
imposing structure was designed by the popular Italian
architect, Carlo Rossi, who worked for most of his life in
Russia, his legacy also including the bright white Yelagin
Palace and the Mikhailovsky Theatre. The theatres performance history practically runs as an A to Z of the nations
greatest actors and directors; premieres of great works
from the likes of Aleksander Griboyedov, Aleksander Ostrovsky, and Aton Chekhov have all taken place there. To
add to the venues star-studded history and graceful architecture, the 250th anniversary of the theatre in 2006 heralded the unveiling of new renovations, introducing 21st
century technological capabilities to the historic venue.

In 1944 the Maly Drama


Theatre
(www.mdtdodin.ru) took upon its
shoulders the important
burden of continuing the
citys theatre productions
at a time when most companies had been evacuated. The theatre started life
humbly performing as and
when it could without a
permanent home. Gradually picking up support from the
public, the theatre began to gather momentum through
the involvement of Lev Dodin in 1974, who has served as
the theatres chief director since 1983 and artistic director
since 2002. Also going by the name Thtre de lEurope,
tourists will be pleased to know that English subtitles are
often offered here. The theatre regularly participates and
holds workshops in theatre festivals around the world, and
Dodin himself has taught at St. Petersburg State Theatre
Arts Academy since 1969 and holds the position of head
of the stage direction department. The Chamber Stage
auditorium, an intimate hall seating just fifty people, is the
latest addition to the theatre - a space for young actors
and directors to test their talents.

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December 2014 - January 2015

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Feature

WINTER HOLIDAYS
IN ST. PETERSBURG
Whoever said that permanent twilight
and freezing wind should keep you from having
a good time? Thats right: no one. So stop
shivering, grab your hat and mittens actually,
maybe a scarf as well and join us as we look
at the best of what St. Petersburg has on
offer for the hardy and the hearty.
20 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Features
Winter in the northern capital is notoriously harsh; biting cold,
ominous rooftop icicles, lots of snow and wind, very little sunlight. Many people might balk at the idea of visiting the city
in its potentially coldest, darkest time (e.g. December). But we
beg to differ, and we hope youll soon see why. First things first,
your visit can and should be seen as a rite of passage: you have
the opportunity to experience the city as natives experience it,
every year. The summers famed White Nights really only give
you a tiny glimpse into what it means to live in Peters city. And
beyond that, for those whove decided to brave the Russian
winter and that means you we hope it will soon become
clear that the cultural capital during the winter holidays is truly
a magical place in its own right.
The cold of winter, however, is no fairytale. For your comfort
and safety, we recommend that you dress appropriately
and that means bundle up! If what youve brought isnt quite
cutting it, you can always find some hand-crafted woollen
goodies socks, gloves, scarves, hats, mittens, you name it
from vendors that set up shop outside of the metros.
But enduring the Russian cold and dark and going home
to tell the tale is not even close to the full story Petersburg in the winter is an utterly transformed and undeniably
gorgeous spectacle. This city knows how to look good in
the dark. Taking a walk along the Neva embankment in the
winter is an unforgettable, almost dreamlike experience.
The Nevas majestic waves are frozen mid crash, the illuminated buildings along the embankment are reflected in the
ice-encrusted waves and the graceful bridges glitter and
sparkle against a clear night sky.
And thats all before even considering the citys monumental preparations for Russias most-celebrated winter holiday the New Year. Already in December, the city begins
to gather its strength for its most extravagant, celebratory
time. The first ten days of January are officially declared
non-labour days, so the entire country gets off work to celebrate. Between the huge light constructions, epic firework
displays, hundreds of performances, shows and celebrations, and a whole host of Russian New Year traditions
from eating salad Olivier and tangerines to watching The
Irony of Fate it would be impossible not to be both impressed and entertained during the holiday season.
Below youll find our recommendations for where to go and
what to do to celebrate this holiday season in St. Petersburg.
Whether youre looking to have an intimate family gathering or to attend a huge public party, we want to make sure
you can celebrate the holidays however youd like to. Weve
put together a list of traditions, suggestions, activities and
events, from eating, shopping and family-friendly activities
to getting some holiday rest and relaxation, that will help you
make this holiday season one of the best yet.

restaurant in the 1860s. He composed the original gourmet


version from grouse, veal tongue, caviar, lettuce, capers and
gherkins. The recipe for the salad, and for the dressing in
particular, was kept a carefully guarded secret. One thing is
for certain, there were definitely no potatoes or tinned peas
involved! Over the years the recipe has changed with the
changing availability of different products. Todays version
of the salad has travelled rather far from the original, and
includes plentiful helpings of spam-like sausage and boiled
vegetables, smothered in mayonnaise.
Apart from salad Olivier, the New Years table traditionally
features a bountiful spread of other salads, such as the classic, also mayonnaise-drenched herring under a fur coat
and other assorted hot and cold snacks (zakuski). Along
with the savoury snacks, the table is piled with fruit that at
one time was hard to come by in the winter months, such
as tangerines and pineapple. The national party drink is of
course shampanskoe (champagne), which is generally
also available in abundance and comes in several varieties,
from bryut (dry) to the sickly sladkoe (sweet), to the most
popular, polusladkoe (semi-sweet).

Visit Grand Father Frost

The first thing on any Russians list of must-have New Years


dishes is without question salad Olivier. Beyond Russias borders, Olivier is also known simply as Russian salad. The seasonal treat was named after its alleged creator, French chef
Lucien Olivier, who was touted as a fashionable gourmet of
19th century Moscow, heading up the exclusive Hermitage

Despite its current status in some parts of the world as a


shopping-driven, capitalist free for all, the Christmas holiday does in fact have religious significance. So, naturally,
the celebration of Christmas was banned from Soviet society early on. In fact, in the early Soviet years, celebrations of
both the religious Christmas and the secular New Year were
both forbidden, along with the beloved traditions of giftgiving and fir tree decorating. However, in 1935, the powers
that were re-introduced the celebration of the New Year in
the Soviet Union and with it came all of the winter festivity
and holiday spirit of Christmas, not to mention many traditional Christmas symbols and rituals, transforming New
Year in Russia into the kind of mega-holiday it remains to
this day. The traditional Christmas tree became the yolka,
or New Years tree and under the tree, good little Russian
children are left gifts from a magical, wintery fatherly figure, known as Ded Moroz (Grand Father Frost). However,
Ded Moroz is more than simply a direct equivalent to the
famous ruddy-cheeked, white-bearded, jolly man of Christmas legend, sometimes called Father Christmas or Santa
Claus. In fact, quite to the contrary. Before he was associated with Christmas or New Years, Ded Moroz originally
appeared in Slavic mythology as an evil spirit, who personi-

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December 2014 - January 2015

A Russian New Year feast

21

Features
A poem for Christmas
Beginning in 1962, Soviet-Russian-American
poet, Joseph Brodsky,
who jokingly referred
to himself as a Christian by correspondence, took on the task
of writing a poem
for every Christmas.
The Christmas poems
stretch through his career from 1962 all the way to 1995, just before his death
in January 1996. When asked why he was so attracted
by Christmas, Brodsky, who was both Soviet by birth
and Jewish by heritage, once replied that it was more
the scene of a birth and the waking of consciousness
that fascinated him, rather than the nativity story as a
whole I liked that concentration of everything in one
place - which is what you have in that cave scene. The
poem we have chosen from Brodsky Christmas cycle
was translated by Irish poet, playwright and translator,
Seamus Heaney. The poem was written towards the
end of the cycle and of the poets life.
Imagine striking a match that night in the cave:
use the cracks in the floor to feel the cold.
Use crockery in order to feel the hunger.
And to feel the desert - but the desert is everywhere.
Imagine striking a match in that midnight cave,
the fire, the farm beasts in outline, the farm tools and stuff;
and imagine, as you towel your face in the towels folds,
the bundled up Infant. And Mary and Joseph.
Imagine the kings, the caravans stilted procession
as they make for the cave, or rather three beams closing in
and in on the star; the creaking of loads,
the clink of a cowbell;
(but in the cerulean thickening over the Infant
no bell and no echo of bell: He hasnt earned it yet.)
Imagine the Lord, for the first time, from darkness,
and stranded
immensely in distance, recognising Himself in the Son,
of Man: homeless, going out to Himself in a homeless one.
(Translated by Seamus Heaney, 2001)
fied the cold of winter. He cried tears of icicles and travelled
across the country by foot, freezing lakes and rivers along
the way with the touch of his staff. The original tradition
of gift-giving was also at one time reversed: parents would
put out presents for Ded Moroz as an offering to dissuade
him from stealing their children. Over time, the spirits image softened and he was eventually transformed into the
warm-hearted bearer of presents and good cheer closer
to his Christmas equivalents in Europe and the States. In
1935, when the Soviet Union re-embraced the celebration
of the New Year, Ded Moroz was formally incorporated into
22 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

the holidays narrative. Under the orders of none other than


Stalin himself, the new, and by now familiar, version of Ded
Moroz donned a blue, fur-lined uniform and acquired a
companion, Snegurochka (the snow maiden). According to
the story, the beautiful young blonde maiden is Ded Morozs granddaughter. In the past two decades the pair have
also gained two official residences: one in Veliky Ustyug (a
village in the Vologda region) and one in Belavezhskaya
Pushcha, Belarus.
If youd like to meet Ded Moroz and Snegurochka, head
to one of the many public yolka shows, which take place
in the citys parks and theatres in the weeks leading up to
New Years Eve. During these shows kids are entertained by
pantomime-style stories featuring cuddly fairytale characters. Some of the more elaborate yolka shows are even
performed on ice rinks.

Russian Christmas
Since the fall of the Soviet
Union in 1991, the religious
holiday of Christmas has
been celebrated once
again in Russia as an officially recognized holiday.
However, the celebration of
Christmas in Russia remains
primarily a religious, and
more specifically a Russian
Orthodox, tradition. As such, Christmas is celebrated not
on December 25th, but, following the Julian calendar, on
January 7th. For those observing the holiday, on Christmas
Eve there are midnight masses at churches all over the city,
starting around 22:00. The masses are followed by all-night
vigils and yet more services in the morning. According to
Orthodox tradition, there is a Lenten fast for the 40 days
leading up to Christmas, during which many types of food
are given up, such as meat and dairy products. Traditionally,
the fast is broken on Christmas Eve when the first star appears in the night sky. Just like at New Years celebrations,
a large family meal is central to Christmas Eve festivities.
Some Orthodox families eat a symbolic twelve-course
meal, in which each particular dish honours one of the
twelve apostles. Some of the twelve traditional dishes include baked fish, sweet cakes made from honey and kutya,
a milky porridge made from poppy seeds, wheatberries,
honey and nuts.
But never fear! If youre here for the holidays and looking to
celebrate Christmas on December 25th, there are several
options available. If youd like to attend mass, the Catholic
Church of St. Catherine is conveniently located on Nevsky
and holds midnight and morning masses on Christmas Eve
(December 24th) and Christmas day (take note, masses will
most likely be conducted in Russian). For festive Christmas
gatherings, many upscale hotels also offer their own special celebratory Christmas parties, markets, dinners and
brunches, for those looking to mark the occasion with
family, friends and fellow guests. For more details on which
hotels are offering what this season, see pages 25-26.
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Features
New Year Street parties
The annual New Year celebrations on Nevsky Prospekt and Palace Square are
both chaotic and fun. St.
Petersburg residents love a
good street party and New
Years Eve is no exception.
With fireworks and champagne corks flying all over
the place, the public gatherings are not exactly quiet affairs. The designated party
area generally starts around Gostiny Dvor and extends up
Nevsky to the river and Palace Square. The entire stretch of
Nevsky is closed to traffic and as midnight approaches, the
area fills with revellers. By all means get into the spirit, hug
some random strangers, enjoy a plastic cup of Sovietskoye
shampanskoye and greet everyone with a hearty S Novym
Godom! (Happy New Year!). But, always remember to
keep an eye on your belongings, as the New Year season
can unfortunately also be a productive time for less upstanding members of society. To make sure that everyone
gets home safely after the big party, the metro will begin
running early in the AM, beginning at 04:00.

Skating and skiing


Wrapping up warm and taking part in some winter sports
is an excellent way to take advantage of the icy weather
during the long New Year holiday. Outdoor ice-skating is
one of the best options the city has to offer. If you are
looking for a lot of space to show off your racing skills
and pirouettes, Park Pobedy (metro Park Pobedy) has
the largest outdoor skating rink in the city. On the other
hand, the frozen pond at Yelagin ostrov (metro Staraya
Derevnya), which sits modestly in the shadow of the elegant Yelagin Palace, is perfect for those who prefer a more
quiet, romantic glide around the ice, holding hands under
twinkling fairy lights. If you are interested in skiing, you
can visit one of the small ski resorts located outside the
city, such as Igora (www.igora.biz) or Kurort Snezhny
(www.snegny.ru). As well as small downhill slopes, both
parks also offer outdoor ice-skating, sledging and crosscountry skiing through pine forests.

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fortune telling

Christmas Eve Fortune Telling, 19th century.


Artist Konstantin Makovsky

The period between Russian Orthodox Christmas (January 7th) and the epiphany (January 19th) is believed
to be a particularly auspicious time for fortune telling.
Many Russians still like to take carry out various old
Slavic fortune telling rituals and have some superstitious fun. In the olden days it was believed that during
this time of the year, the souls of dead ancestors would
roam the earth checking on the lives of their children
and grandchildren. According to tradition, the most accurate predictions are given on the night of old New
Years Day, January 13th. Below youll find some of the
most popular fortune-telling traditions, most of which
are simple enough to try at home.
Wax: This fortune telling ritual involves melting wax
and pouring it onto cold water. Upon contact with the
water, the wax solidifies into a shape. From this shape,
you must discern what the future will bring you. If it
is a house, you will live well this year. If it is a circle or
circles, you will have good fortune. If some kind of fruit
or animal takes shape, you will have good health. If it is
a man, then you know what that means!
Paper: Crumple up some paper, put it on a tray and
set fire to it. When it stops burning, lift the tray up to a
wall and shine some light on it. The burnt paper should
cast a shadow onto the wall. Following the wax shape
guidelines above, you can predict the coming years
luck from the shape of the shadow.
King of Diamonds: Take a deck of playing cards and
remove the King of Diamonds. Put it under your pillow
on a night between the 6th and the 13th of December
and you will dream of your future husband(s).
Lucky Dip: Find a golden ring, a loaf of bread and a
hook. Lay them on a table and cover them with a piece
of cloth or napkin. Have someone re-arrange them under the cloth. Then pick an object without looking. If
you choose the ring, your future husband will be vain. If
you get the bread, your husband will be rich. If you get
the hook, your husband will be poor. Other versions of
the lucky dip can involve a babys sock (predicting an
imminent pregnancy), a coin (for wealth) and a key (for
a new home).
December 2014 - January 2015

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Features
Christmas Fair

Another destination for unique hand-crafted gifts and


souvenirs is the annual St. Petersburg International
Christmas Fair, which takes place this year on Pionerskaya pl. (metro Zvenigorodskaya) from December 19th
to January 11th. The fair not only features vendors selling Christmas and New Years gifts and food, but also
booths representing different countries from all over
the world, including the UK, the US, China, Spain, Germany, and many more. During the fair, each countrys
booth will present their respective cultural holiday traditions, foods and favourite holiday-season entertainments. The fair also features a stage, where live performances will take place daily, and an ice-skating rink. As
a special holiday bonus, children under the age of 16
get to skate for free!

24 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Warm up in the banya


A banya is a traditional Russian sauna and/or bath house.
For some, going to the banya is a social event, that involves
friends and family and possibly lots of drinking. For others,
including the few remaining communal-flat residents, bathing at public banyas is just the normal way to wash oneself.
For this reason, there are many types of banyas to choose
from. Communal banyas have large rooms with showers, hot
rooms and places to chill out and change clothes. Banyas
usually have male and female sections, or alternate between
mens and womens days. Private banyas are also available for
reservation, if youd like to get a group of friends together and
have one all to yourselves. The health benefits of having a
good old sweat are many and well-documented. If you opt
in for a true Russian banya experience, you can also get the
blood flowing with a proper Russian banya beating using
veniki, which are different types of aromatic branches, bundled together and used as healthful switches.
Bateninskie bany
QUl. Aleksandra Matrosova 2, MLesnaya, tel. (+7) 812
331 88 99, www.batbani.ru.
Degtyarnie Bathhouses
QE-3, Degtyarnaya ul. 1, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
244 41 04, www.d1a.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00. A
Kazachie bany
QD-3, Bol. Kazachy per. 11, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7)
812 315 07 34, www.kazbani.ru. Open 24hrs.

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Holidays at hotels
Now you know that New Year in Russia is hands down the
biggest party of the year. But the celebratory spirit extends
well beyond New Years Eve. Whichever winter holiday
youd like to celebrate, we want to make sure you find the
best place to do so. Holidays always have their share of
stresses - preparing food, hosting family or friends, buying
gifts, decorating. The list goes on. But we do it all, year after
year, because the magical moments that happen during
the holidays are worth all the effort and the memories can
be cherished for a lifetime.
Of course, if youre spending the holidays away from home,
you may have entirely different concerns, likely beginning
with the two pressing questions when and where to celebrate? This holiday season, many of St. Petersburgs best hotels would like to play host to you and your familys winter
holiday festivities, in whatever form they may take. Forget
the fuss of cooking, or the hassles of playing host and head
down to a hotel where you can let the professionals handle
the work. Sit down together for a delicious Christmas meal
with all your classic holiday favourites, drink champagne on
New Years Eve with friends, family and new acquaintances,
or spend an evening watching a holiday-themed concert
or show. However youd like to celebrate, we hope youll
find what youre looking for!
On New Years Eve, beginning at 22:00, the Azimut Hotel
invites you to welcome in the new year not in Petersburg,
but in 1930s Berlin. The one-night only event is designed
to immerse you in the world of the musical Cabaret. The
festivities include live cabaret shows, music performances,
decadent amounts of champagne, a Kit Kat Klub-themed
menu and a raffle.
For a more intimate, personalized party or event, the
Corinthia Hotel offers to play host in their beautiful facilities and help you design the perfect evening for family,
friends or colleagues. You can either choose from an array
of carefully put together prefix menus, featuring traditional
Russian dishes and delicacies, and festive beverage packages, or consult with the hotels Conference and Events
Department to create your own. Corinthia is also hosting
a New Years Eve Gala, featuring champagne, an exquisite
dinner menu and live jazz in their Imperial restaurant.
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Any evening from December 24th to January 8th the


Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg Vasilievsky
hotel invites you and your family to enjoy specially prepared
Christmas dishes and desserts at the hotels Pierrot restaurant.
The hotel also presents a New Years Eve celebration, which
includes a three-course meal, live music, a DJ set and unlimited beverages, plus New Years surprises. Children under
five are welcome free of charge. For guests whod like to stay
the night, the hotel is also offering a deluxe New Years night
package, that includes both the evenings party at Pierrot restaurant and a buffet breakfast on New Years day.
The Domina Prestige Hotel has also created a New
Years Eve party to remember. The nights events open with
a cocktail party where guests are invited to watch the hotels chef create a brand new New Years dish before their
eyes. The evening continues with banquet-style dining,
with all the Russian New Years favourites, live music, DJs
and dancing late into the night.
For families with young children, the world-renowned
Belmond Grand Hotel Europe has put together an
incredible array of gifts, activities and events that are sure
to delight and mesmerize the whole family. For parents, the
hotel has made last minute Christmas shopping easy, with
their selection of Christmas Sets, handmade festive packages of local and seasonal specialties, which make wonderful
holiday gifts and souvenirs. Christmas Dinner on December 24-25 will be served in the icicle-decorated Caviar Bar
and Restaurant. Other family-friendly events include a New
Years brunch on January 1st , with children-oriented entertainment, a Russian Fairytale Night (December 31st) and a
special New Year Kids Party (January 4th) with food, sweets,
games gifts and a surprise appearance of Ded Moroz.

December 2014 - January 2015

25

Features
For more holiday and souvenir shopping, the Kempinski
Hotel Moika 22 presents their very own Christmas Market, which will be open every day from morning until late in
the evening, from December 1st to January 7th. The hotels
lobby will be transformed into a magical Nutcracker fairytale. After doing some shopping, enjoy a cup of tea before
a crackling fire in the hotels festively decorated Tea Room.
In addition, the hotel hosts Christmas concerts every evening in December, a great activity for all ages. In addition to
the daily holiday cheer, the hotel also invites guests to partake in specially created holiday meals on New Years Eve,
Catholic Christmas (December 24th and 25th), and Russian
Christmas (January 7th).

On New Years Eve, the Taleon Imperial Hotel presents


Around the world in one night, a special holiday event for
guests of all ages. Host Mike Malyshev invites guests on a
journey to different countries around the world, where you
will be introduced to different cultures traditional dances
and music. The evening will also include a separate program for children with games, performances, contests, gifts
and a special kids menu. For adult guests, the hotels chef
has also created a unique, exclusive New Years menu, inspired by cuisines from around the world.

The Renaissance St. Petersburg Baltic hotel is offering


Christmas and New Year celebratory menus in their Canvas
restaurant, beginning Christmas Eve (December 24th) and
extending until January 8th. The hotel is also hosting their
own New Years Eve dinner at Canvas, as well as a special
one-night stay in one of the hotels Deluxe room. The onenight package includes the Festive New Year dinner and a
buffet breakfast on New Years morning.
Located smack on St. Isaacs
Square, directly facing the
cathedral, sister hotels Astoria and Angleterre are
a pleasure to visit at any
time of the year. But, just to
be more enticing, this holiday season, the hotels have
prepared some special
events for a magical New
Years Eve. At the Astoria,
guests are invited to a Snow Kingdom party where every
guest will become a participant in their favourite winter
fairytale. The program, which is hosted by the famous Lyudmila Shiryaeva and Sergey Slavin, also includes live acrobatic, music, dance and theatre performances. The evenings
menu is specially designed by the recent additions to the
hotels team, acclaimed head chef Serge Feri from France
and head pastry chef Yulia Ivanova. At the Angleterre, the
New Years Eve festivities take the form of a show called
Italian Passion in the hotels restaurant Borsalino. Hosted
by Comedy Club resident Gregory Soloviev, the evening
also features live acrobatic, music and theatre acts as well,
and a menu filled with Italian delicacies. Music and dancing will continue until the wee hours. New Years morning,
restaurant Borsalino is also offering a festive holiday brunch
with fresh, re-invigorating cocktails and live music.
If youre looking for something a little less traditional this
New Years Eve, come get your dance on at the Courtyard
by Marriott St. Petersburg Center West Pushkin
hotel 80s night New Year bash. Other than a live DJ playing
80s hits all night long, the party also offers a huge, buffetstyle spread of classic Russian New Years dishes and desserts. The event also includes an open bar where any drink
of your choice - champagne, wine, vodka, and even local
beer brewed in the hotels brewery - will flow like water.

For contact information on hotels


check pages 54-56
26 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat
St. Petersburg is brimming with colourful, innovative and
fun restaurants serving everything from traditional Russian
to nouvelle cuisine. To be sure of getting a table, make sure
to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph
into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so
make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet.
Tip for good service only - 10% is considered fair.
Our price guide is based on the average price of
a main course:
- 0 - 400Rbl
400 - 800Rbl
800 - 1,200Rbl
1,200Rbl plus

Russian CUISINE
1913
Nestled on a street corner between St. Isaacs and Theatre
Squares, Restaurant 1913 is the perfect spot to stop in on
a wintry evening to enjoy a glass of wine or a coffee. Live
musicians playing soothing Russian ballads offer you a
moment to warm up and bask in the elegant, but comforting and intimate space. The extensive menu, available
in both Russian and English, boasts every classic Russian
dish imaginable, plus more unusual offerings for adventurous diners. The restaurant, which just celebrated its 20th
anniversary this fall, is festively decorated and features
Art Deco-inspired stained-glass windows and glass detail.
QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 13/2, MSpasskaya, tel. (+7) 812
315 51 48, www.restaurant-1913.spb.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PSW
Caviar Bar and Restaurant
Cool marble envelops the intimate dining space atop the
first tier of the Grand Hotel Europes elegant staircase, but
the impeccable service is as warm as the flickering candles.
Not surprisingly, caviar makes many appearances on the
menu, but never one that is out of place. You can try the
Kamchatka crab in champagne sauce, or the delicious Beef
Stroganoff, but only after touring your way around the
heavenly hors doeuvres, while sampling the vodka recommended by the citys only vodka sommelier. Business lunch
is served between 12:00 - 15:00.QD-3, Belmond Grand
Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 329 66 22, www.caviar-bar.com. Open Wed - Sat
12:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. . PALEW
Cococo
Founded by Sergey Shnurov, the frontman of the ska-punk
band Leningrad, this restaurant is just a short walk from
the Nevsky Prospekt and worth the small detour. Here
you can try a wide variety of real Russian cuisine, which
is made using local farm products, as well as homemade
fruit drinks (in interesting flavours, such as pumpkin), lemonade, and organic wine. The meals are well presented,
and wholesome, including dishes such acorns tiramisu
and thistle soup. The basement restaurant has low ceilings and generates a cosy and relaxed atmosphere.QE-2,
Ul. Nekrasova 8, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579
00 16, www.kokoko.spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 06:00. . PASW
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December 2014 - January 2015

27

Where to eat
Idiot
With numerous rooms filled with comfortable and cosy
antique furniture, eclectic titbits and reading material in
English and Russian, Idiot is worth visiting just for the atmosphere. Here you can taste a variety of traditional Russian dishes, with a decent selection of vegetarian food and
a reasonable kids menu. However many people come to
Idiot simply to absorb the atmosphere, and to drink. Guests
are given a complimentary mini-shot of vodka, while the
cordial English-speaking staff hand you the Dostoevsky inspired menu. To top it off during happy hour (18:30 - 19:30),
you get two draught beers or glasses of house wine for
the price of one, plus the complimentary vodka. Quite the
deal!QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 82, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921
946 51 73, www.idiot-spb.com. Open 11:00 - 01:00. .
PTASW
NEP
NEP is a delightful cabaret den which pays glorious homage to the sultry swinging 1920s. The atmosphere is cosy
and warm, softly lit with candles so you can settle back,
order your meal and be enthralled by the music featuring
a charming, personality-packed star singer. They offer an
array of delicious fish and meat dishes, all exquisitely presented and served. If youre sitting close to the performers, it
is likely youll find yourself part of the nights entertainment.
QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 37, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 571 75 91, www.neprestoran.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00,
Wed - Sun 12:00 - 01:00. . PAESW

Next to Mariinsky theatre

Olivie
Named in honour of the famous Russian salad, of which
various types are served here in abundance, Olivie offers Russian and Caucasian dishes prepared with the
chefs personal interpretations. Classic walnut sauce
with chicken, delicate veal cutlets with green sauce, a
classic Khachapuri or a mixture of dried fruit for dessert
- are just a few examples of what the chef offers. Olivie
is located within a five minute walk from Palace Square,
directly opposite the Admiralty. This restaurant is perfect for every mood, every occasion and every type of
company.QD-3, Admiralteisky pr. 8, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 945 84 72. Open 12:00 - 23:00. .
PTAGSW
Russkaya Ryumochnaya No.1
Typically, a ryumochnaya is a stand-up, spit-and-sawdust
kind of a place where working men wash down cheap
vodka with salty snacks. This sophisticated fin-de-sicle
inspired establishment is as far away from that kind of
place as you can imagine. This is Russian food fit for
tsars, complete with black caviar and reindeer meat.
The historic dishes are rich and well made, making this
a very recommended introduction to Russian cuisine.
They also have possibly the biggest vodka list weve ever
seen, as well as a vodka museum!QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570
64 20, www.vodkaroom.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
PTAULESW

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Delicious italian
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St. Petersburg,
pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 43,
www.romeosbarandkitchen.ru

reservations:
+7 (812) 572 54 48
28 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Next to
Mariinsky theatre

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat

Asian and Indian


Chopsticks
Chopsticks is a fine dining Chinese restaurant. The interior
has been decorated in traditional Chinese style, featuring
traditional paintings on the walls. Quiet background music
adds to the refined Oriental atmosphere. The master chef
produces not only his favourite Szechwan and Cantonese
dishes but also popular dishes from India and Thailand. Its
central location makes this one of the most convenient Chinese restaurants to visit in St. Petersburg. Be prepared to take
your time over the meal and expect to use chopsticks!QD-3,
Admiralteisky pr. 8, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315
51 15, www.facebook.com/chopsticks.spb. Open 12:00 23:00. . PTSW
Curry House
Well known St. Petersburg resident and chef Sumit Gupta
took the courage to open his own Curry House in the
Northern Capital, which we think was a great idea! Curry
House is a perfect addition to the citys food scene serving food from all parts of off India. The menu is extensive
and we really enjoyed the wide variety of dishes: Samosa,
Murg Tikka Muglai, Palak Paneer, Punjabi Chole (marinated
chick peas) served with plain rice and off course buttered
naan. Like any Indian restaurant, Curry House offers a wide
choice of vegetarian dishes.QC-3, Ul. Glinki 3-5-7, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921 416 94 47, www.curryhousespb.
com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. .
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Tandoor
Situated mere steps from St. Isaacs cathedral, Tandoor is
about as far away from bland Russian food as you can get.
For 19 years now theyve been serving up real, authentic
Indian fare and have won numerous best restaurant prizes for their efforts. They have all the usual favourites so you
can try a couple and share amongst your buddies, whilst
mopping up every last dollop of sauce with the thick naan
bread. With two rooms, this place is ideal for a large group.
QD-3, Admiralteisky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb.ru. Open 12:00 23:00. . PTALEGSW
Tandoori Nights
For Indian style fine-dining, this is a great place to go. The
menu is original and mouth-watering, especially the clayoven Tandoori-specialities, which gives the meat a delicious
flavour and specific tenderness. The soft naan breads are also
highly recommended - especially the peshwari naan. You can
also try a truly authentic Indian beer Kingfisher, Indian Rum
and 18 types of tea. Therere plenty of options for vegetarians
too and every guest with an In Your Pocket guide gets a 10%
discount on the bill.QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 312 87 72, www.tandoorinightsspb.
com. Open 12:00 - 23:30. . PALVSW

Ya vegetarianets I am a vegetarian
Bez myasa without meat
December 2014 - January 2015

29

Where to eat
of beer in a different glass! Belgian meals, which combine the
simplicity of a traditional burger with the delicacy of French
cuisine, are made according to the best recipes chosen in
Brussels and Antwerp. QC-2, Nab. Makarova 22, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600 23 90, www.inbrugge.ru.
Open 12:00 - 02:00. . PTALEGSW

Beer Restaurants
Craft Bier Cafe
Calling all beer-lovers! 40 different kinds of beer on tap can
be found at Craft, more than anywhere else in St. Petersburg. And not only the well-known kinds, but also Crafts
special Russian brews. Owner Sergey takes special pride
in having four different kinds of lager available that he
specially made based on his own favourites from Russia,
Belgium, the Netherlands, Germany and other countries
he has visited in search of exotic examples of his favourite beverage. The atmosphere is laid-back and it is easy to
mingle with locals and expats alike. QE-2, Gagarinskaya
ul. 6, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 983 55 59, www.
craftpub.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Tue - Thu 12:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. . PTAEGW
Dickens
This British island near the Fontanka river has beer from all
around the world, including more than ten on tap, and a lot
of superior whiskeys. The snacks and food are good too (the
chicken wings are our favourites) and come in huge portions.
Dont forget to try the breakfast here - its a great hangover
cure and really authentically British. Dickens offers a pub atmosphere, which is as close to a real British pub as youll find
in Russia and also features a fine dining restaurant on the second floor.QD-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 108, MSennaya pl.,
tel. (+7) 812 702 62 63, www.dickensrest.ru. Open 12:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. . PAGSW
Gastronomic Pub Brugge
This Gastronomic pub is the place for people who like an
authentic atmosphere and, naturally, original cuisine! The
founders of this pub were inspired by the idea that the Belgians appreciate beer as much as the French admire their
wine, so they tried to collect the best types of the most popular beverages and, as tradition dictates, they serve each kind

SYMBOL key
P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

V Home delivery

W Wifi

30 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

KwakInn
Kwakinn is a Belgian beer pub with a friendly atmosphere and
piles of Belgian moules. The brains behind the long-gone
Tsinik bar run this friendly little pub with an attitude that says settle in, were all friends here. This tiny, bright basement pub
(the yellow walls bring a lot of light to what should be a dark
space) has one central bar surrounded by cosy booths with
the odd tv here and there usually showing football. The food
is excellent - the chunky Belgian frittes alone are worth the
journey.QC-2, VO, Bolshoy pr. 37, MVasileostrovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 493 26 39, www.kwakinn.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. . PAGSW
Manneken Pis
Manneken Pis is named after the famous 61 cm. statue
in Brussels. Manneken Pis means Little Man Pees in Marol (Dutch dialect spoken in Brussels). Whether you are a
connoisseur of good beer or are looking for something a
little different, Manneken Pis will turn your affection for
beer into a religion. This bar has a wide range of Belgium
and Dutch beers with 12 types of beer on tap and over
150 types of bottled beer, including trappist and boutique beers. The staff are obliging and eager to share their
knowledge of the mind boggling array of beer and the
food is excellent.QMoskovsky pr. 198, MPark Pobedy,
tel. (+7) 812 371 90 31, www.beercard.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. . PTAGSW
The Corner Pub
This is an English pub on the Petrograd Side, founded by
the people who brought you Dickens. The menu remains
unchanged but beer selection has been improved dramatically - more than 30 kinds of beer, including ever popular
craft beers. It is a particularly pleasant place to sit back and
relax in a comfortable armchair by the fire with an English
ale. QC-1, PS, Maly pr. 55A, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
318 17 24, www.dickenspubs.com. Open 16:00 - 04:00. .
PAESW
Trappist
Cafe Trappist is a Belgian pub that prides itself for offering
good beer, good food and good service. Trappists are an
order of Catholic monks who live by strict rules, but brew
fantastic beer in their monasteries in Belgium and Holland.
With an entire book filled with beer options ranging from affordable to over 2,000Rbl a bottle, Trappist is definitely a beer
destination, as they have imported more than 100 beers from
Belgium and Holland for your enjoyment. From Friday to Sunday, you can order fresh mussels delivered directly from the
White Sea.Q-2, Ul. Radishcheva 36, MChernyshevskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 275 99 35, www.cafetrappist.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. . PAGSW
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat
Caucasian
Baklazhan
The open kitchen concept combined with beige rusticism
seems to be mode du jour for Ginza Project. The twist at
Baklazhan (Aubergine) are the touches of deep purple to
the decor, wine bottles lining the walls and a market stall
of sorts selling fruits and nuts near the entrance. The food
itself is standard Georgian fare with a few more innovative
dishes. Stick with baked goods, such as their stuffed samsas, khachapuri and the like and youll be treated to piping hot goodness thatll stick to your bones.QE-3, Galeria
Shopping Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel.
+7 (812) 677 73 72, www.baklazhan.net. Open 10:00
until last guest. . PTALVESW
Pryanosti i radosti
Just down the road from Gorkovskaya metro station on
the Petrograd Side, this is an extremely popular restaurant
from the Ginza Project. On entering, you might even say
too popular. The tables are spaced close to each other and
a quiet conversation looks like it will be impossible, but
somehow it all works. You feel like you are in a busy, fun
and thriving atmosphere. The menu includes European
delicacies, Russian favourites and of course traditional
Caucasian meals thrown in to spice things up. Also at Moskovsky pr. 191 (metro Moskovskaya).QD-1, Mal. Posadskaya ul. 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 333 46 33, www.
ginzaproject.ru. Open 24hrs. . PTAVSW

8, Admiralteysky Pr.,
+7 (812) 945 84 72

European
Gypsy tapas bar
Decorated with more Middle Eastern flavor than Spanish, the welcome is exotic and warm as you enter Gypsy
Tapas Bar. Enjoy fruity cocktails such as I Want a Summer
Gypsy! and Quiet Sangria, while sampling freshly-made
tapas from a small yet interesting menu. As well as tapas,
the menu also offers a limited selection of mains and
soups.QE-2, Liteiny pr. 14/1, MChernyshevskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 993 77 57, www.gypsybar.ru. Open 12:00 until
last guest. . PAESW
Il Lago dei Cigni
Il Lago dei Cigni (Swan Lake) is an Italian restaurant under
the patronage of the famous gourmet chef Remo Mazzucato. The luxurious interiors were designed by Hirsch Bedner
Associates and the sense of luxury is supported by a unique
wine list, live music and Mediterranean hospitality. Close
to the central city, the restaurant is located on Krestovsky
Island in the middle of the Neva River delta, giving guests
a beautiful view of the Finnish Gulf that is particularly attractive as the sun sets. The restaurant itself sits on the very
edge of Swan Lake (also known as Northern Lake), giving
visitors the opportunity to watch these magnificent birds
throughout the year. Il Lago dei Cigni is the ideal location for
a quiet getaway from the stress and bustle of the city.QA-1,
Severnaya doroga 21, MKrestovsky ostrov, tel. (+7) 812
602 07 07, www.illago.ru. . PTAESW
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December 2014 - January 2015

31

Where to eat
Fine dining

Mon Petit Caf


While the dcor is similar to a lot of other modern cafs in
town, the cafes understated colors, comfortable chairs and
impressionist artwork on the walls help give off a mildly
Parisian vibe. However, unlike other cafs, the menu is refreshingly brief. Menu highlights include excellent pats as
starters, full-bodied red wine and delicious crme brle
for dessert. The basic menu also helps keep things uncomplicated in the kitchen, allowing the cooks to just focus on
quality ingredients and as a result deliver tasty and satisfying
meals.QF-3, 2-ya Sovetskaya ul. 27, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel.
(+7) 812 372 65 78. Open 11:00 - 23:00. . PASW
Mozhno
Prepare to be transported to a new kind of dining experience. The menu is designed according to the diet principles
of French nutritionist Pierre Dukan. However, non-dieting
customers can simply choose dishes at will and, likely, will not
be disappointed. Be prepared for innovative preparations of
classic protein-heavy foods - lots of fish and fowl, as well as
beef tongue and tender leg of lamb - served with whole grain
purees, fruits and vegetables. Beautifully arranged and amply sized plates will leave you satisfied and smiling.QE-3, Ul.
Marata 16, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 926 26 16, www.
mozhno-est.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . PASW
Soup Wine
Five tables with bar stools are all you will find in this sleek
and pleasant diner. The menu is as small as the place itself,
boasting a simple yet tasty choice of soups and salads, but
also a selection of fresh juices, pasta and wine and huge
salads which come in bowls piled with green leaves. Given
the restaurants size and how easy it is to sit and linger,
listening to the operatic soundtrack, it is definitely advised
to book a table in advance. QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 24,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312 76 90, www.supvino.ru.
Open 12:00 - 23:00. . PAGSW
Sunduk
Sunduk is a restaurant with a style of its own. Tightly packed
into two small chambers, the restaurant is crowded with
memorabilia of the weird, the wacky and the wonderful. The
bizarre collection creates a quirky and lively atmosphere. Live
music aids digestion while this smoothly running restaurant
is overseen by the resident cat who ensures everything is in
order.QE-2, Furshtatskaya ul. 42, MChernyshevskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 272 31 00, www.cafesunduk.ru. Open 10:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. . PASW
32 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

LEurope
Eating in this historic restaurant, the sparkling diamond in
the sumptuous Grand Hotel Europes crown, is an experience to be savoured. The service is in a class of its own,
the interiors are stunning, especially the original Art Deco
stained glass windows and ceiling, and all the dishes are
made with the absolute finest ingredients available. Read
more on pages 34-35.QD-3, Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
329 66 30, www.europe-restaurant.net. Open 07:00 23:00. . PTALEW
Palkin
Palkin is as historic as they come, dating all the way back
to 1874. Although restoration did take place, the interior
is as sophisticated and tasteful as it was in Imperial times,
which adds to the feeling that you are being treated to a
meal in some rich aristocrats home. The menu is bursting
with luxurious foie gras, angus beef, truffles, black caviar and
game moulded into historic French/Russian recipes from a
bygone era. They also offer a seasonal five-course special
menu with specially selected wines, themed around a different wine-growing region of the world. Booking in advance is recommended. QE-3, Nevsky pr. 47, MNevsky
pr., tel. (+7) 812 703 53 71, www.palkin.ru. Open 12:00 23:00. . PTAEW
The Flying Dutchman
At just about the widest point of the Neva, the Letuchy
Gollandets, or Flying Dutchman, affords panoramic views
of the stunning uninterrupted architecture along the rivers
banks, with the glorious Winter Palace directly opposite diners. The Flying Dutchman complex includes three different
restaurants. Our favourite is the restaurant Terrasa. All cream,
dark wood and clean lines, this place is every bit the classy
berth you would expect, where the sharp modern interior
doesnt completely detract from the vessels heritage. Fresh
fish is predictably a wise choice in such a venue and certainly doesnt disappoint and the wine list nonchalantly flows
over several pages.QC-2, Mytninskaya nab. 6, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 313 88 66, www.dutchman.ru. Open
10:00 until last guest. . PTALEGSW
Wine Cellar 1853
Few restaurants are as small and cosy as this one. Located inside the Kempinski Moika 22 Hotel, you escape into the world
of fine dining, exclusive wines and delicious fondue. This cellar
accommodates up to 16 people but you are never alone since
you are accompanied by 200 different bottles of wine and 50
bottles of champagne. You can choose between four different fondues from the menu, among other offerings. Next to
the classical cheese fondue is a bourgogne meat fondue and
a chocolate fondue (as an entre, main and dessert perhaps)
or you can go for the champagne and perigord truffle and
cheese fondue. QAdmiralteiskaya, Nab. Reky Moiky 22,
MD-2, tel. (+7) 812 335 9111, www.kempinski.com. Open
Tue - Sat 18:00 - 22:00. . PAUW
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to eat
International
Biblioteka
This culinary and cultural project takes up three storeys
in the old Dutch Church on Nevsky prospect. The ground
floor is a caf-delicatessen with tasty American and Dutch
pies, homemade burgers, fresh salads and coffee. A restaurant with a great view of Nevsky pr. is located on the
first floor, along with a flower shop, a china shop, book
shop and candle shop. The ViVi childrens club is also located here. The second floor has a relaxed atmosphere
and comprises a wine and tapas-bar. A bookshop is also
located here.QD-3, Nevsky pr. 20, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 244 15 94, www.facebook.com/ilovenevsky. Open
08:00 - 01:00. . PTAESW
Bolshaya Kukhnya
A huge panorama restaurant just a stones throw away from
Moskovsky train station. The name is very appropriate because the restaurant can fit up to 400 people at once, making it a great place for groups of friends and families to enjoy
a very wide menu of more than 150 dishes from around the
world. Among them head chef Vladimir Stebunov presents
pastas and pizzas, burgers, homemade desserts and platters for two or more. The little ones have their very own
menu in their very own restaurant.QE-3, Galeria Shopping
Centre, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MVosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 984
04 84, www.big-kitchen.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 02:00. . PTAULEGSW

MarketPlace in Galeria
For a lively culinary experience, head to the MarketPlace,
a new restaurant located on the fourth-floor of the Galleria shopping mall. The restaurant features an open
kitchen, where you can watch cooks prepare dishes
from all over the world. The MarketPlace team, inspired
by their travels all over the globe, have attempted to recreate the bustling, aromatic atmosphere of a market,
where food is quickly made and reasonably priced, with
the comforts and quality of a high-end restaurant. The
food is made from fresh ingredients and the restaurants
interior is constructed only from eco-friendly materials,
including wood, ceramic and brick detail. The space is
designed for guests to sit comfortably, sipping a glass of
wine or a specialty cocktail, and watch the MarketPlace
magic unfold.QE-3, Galeria, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl.
Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 981 169 88 28, www.marketplace.me. Open 10:00 - 23:00. . PASW

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December 2014 - January 2015

33

Features

THE GRAND HOTEL EUROPE


This January, the Belmond Grand Hotel Europe, an historic
icon of excellence and luxury in the heart of St. Petersburg, celebrates its 140th anniversary. The hotel has lived
and flourished from the end of the Russian Imperial era,
through the entire Soviet era and into the 21st century.
From its opening day, and throughout this entire span, the
hotel has been known for its luxurious accommodations,
impeccable service and welcoming, friendly atmosphere,
as well as its ability to adapt to the demands of history. In
the face of inevitable change, the Grand Hotel Europe has
retained its high level of service and continued to update
and rejuvenate itself to keep up with and even go well beyond the expectations of its contemporary guests.
The Grand Hotel Europe was constructed on prime
real estate, right on the corner of Nevsky prospekt and
Mikhailovskaya ulitsa. Mikhailovskaya provides an open
vista all the way from Nevsky to Arts Square and beyond, to
the magnificent classical pillars of the Mikhailovsky Palace,
which today houses the Russian Museum.
When Peter the Great first began to build his new capital,
many parts of what is today the city centre where nothing
more than swamp land and stagnant rivers. By the first decade of the 19th century, however, the land had been unrecognizably transformed. One of the most important architects working in St. Petersburg at that time was the Italian
Carlo Rossi. He designed the entire area around the Grand

34 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Hotel Mikhailovsky Palace, Arts Square, and the beautiful


boulevard, Mikhailovskaya ulitsa, leading from the Square
to Nevsky. At the same time, he organized the construction
of a unified faade for the buildings lining Mikhailovskaya,
what would later become the faade of the Grand Europe.
In the 1820s-30s, the building behind Rossis faade and its
neighboring building around the corner were occupied by
two separate hoteliers, Hugo Klee and Jean Coulon. In the
1830s, Klees son, Wilhelm, took over the business from his
father, combined his hotel with Coulons and created a unified establishment, the Hotel Rossiya. The combined hotel
set new standards for service and its restaurant became a
gathering place for writers, intellectuals and artists.
Klee ran the Hotel Rossiya for almost 30 years, gaining a
reputation for high-end hospitality in the heart of the city. In
1872, a group of wealthy businessmen formed a joint-stock
company called Evropeiskaya Gostinnitsa (Hotel Europe) and
made Klee an offer for his hotel that he couldnt refuse. In
order to get the entire property along Mikhailovskaya, the
company also had to buy out the shop owners who occupied the ground floors of the buildings, and charged hefty
prices to vacate their prime locations. But the Hotel Europe
company had a vision. They wanted to open a new, worldclass hotel that would be unrivalled in Russias capital. In
1873, they hired architect L.F. Fontana and got to work on
renovations and refurbishments.
On January 25, 1875, a press release was printed in the
newspaper Stock Exchange announcing the opening of
the new Hotel dEurope. The announcement included a list
of almost unprecedented services that the new establishment had to offer: two hundred and sixty exclusively decorated rooms, restaurant, butcher shop, bakers, pastry shop,
tailor laundry, shoe repair, barber, fish smoking, wine cellars, 1-4 horse carriages for rent, laundry, ice and lemonade
production, interpreters with all the worlds languages
All of the above, plus the latest technological advancements, such as a lift, air bells to ring for service, and telegraph. The new hotel, which was also referred to by
many simply as the Evropeiskaya, was poised to set new
standards of hospitality and excellence. And indeed it did.
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Features
In 1905, the hotel opened their restaurant LEurope, which
today is the oldest continually serving restaurant in the city.
An incredible stained-glass mural of Apollo crowns the
main dining space. Between 1907 and 1914, the hotel also
received an Art Nouveau makeover from architect Fyodor
Lidval, who would later design the hotel Astoria. The dcor
in the LEurope and in many other parts of the hotel today
remain testaments to Lidvals work.
During the World Wars, the hotels hundreds of rooms were
transformed for uses other than accommodating foreign
guests, as the horror of war and starvation descended on
the city. After the ravages of World War One and the Civil
War following the Bolshevik revolution, the hotel was used
as an orphanage for the many children left without parents.
In 1929, responding to the inevitable presence of visiting
foreigners in the Soviet Union, Soviet authorities created
the State Joint-Stock Company for Foreign Tourists, better
known as Intourist. During the interwar years, Intourist orchestrated the visits of highly respected foreign guests to
the new Communist State, such as H.G. Wells and George
Bernard Shaw. Poet Vladimir Mayakovsky and writer Maxim
Gorky both frequented the hotel and its restaurants, and
both often used their hotel suites as reception areas for the
many eager young writers and well-wishers who would
line up to visit with them.
The hotel was again appropriated for another use during World
War Two and the horrific 900-day siege of Leningrad. This time
the hotel became a much-needed hospital, and its many
rooms were filled with wounded and sick patients. When Hospital No. 991, as the hotel was temporarily re-named, closed in
April 1942, its staff attempted to repair and restore the oncemagnificent building, part of which had been bombed and
much of which was filled with debris and fallen plaster.
In the postwar years, the city began to recover from the
devastation of the siege and the war. Restoration of the
Evropeiskaya began in earnest in 1949. When the hotel
re-opened for business, it continued to attract respected
visitors from both the Soviet Union and abroad for the next
two decades. But by the 1980s, the dilapidated faade,
which hadnt been renovated since just after the war, the
hotels amenities and even the level of service were unde-

niably outdated. On January 5, 1989, the Evropeiskaya Hotel was officially closed for renovations. Intourist collaborated with Swedish companies SIAB and RESO to entirely
revamp the hotel and raise it to contemporary international
standards. And the companies did not take this task lightly.
They brought in a floating training hotel, consisting of 276
rooms, and anchored it next to Leningrads international
passenger terminal. There the future staff of the Grand Hotel Europe, which, as a rule, included no one from the former Soviet-era staff, were whipped into shape before the
new hotels opening.

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December 2014 - January 2015

The beautifully and technologically updated hotel, and the


first Five-Star hotel in Russia, officially re-opened on December 21, 1991. Again the guest list began to fill with the
names of the rich and famous, including former president
Bill Clinton and the man of the hour, Mikhail Gorbachev.
Through the 90s, the hotel was run by the Kempinski
group, who saw it through economic collapse and other
hardships of the late 90s and early 2000s.
This January, the Grand Hotel Europe celebrates its 140th
anniversary in the capable hands of Belmond Ltd. This October, the hotel announced the opening of six new suites,
which include the largest presidential suite in St. Petersburg
and five Avant-Garde Suites, designed in homage to Russian
artists of the early 20th century. The hotel offers its guests
the absolute highest quality of services and amenities, on the
cutting-edge of the hospitality industry, while still retaining
the elegance and charm of its Imperial origins.

35

Where to eat
PMI Bar
PMI bar occupies three floors in a beautiful historic building on the Moika. The bar, located on the first floor, features hand-crafted cocktails, created by the citys best
bartenders. In the restaurant and enoteca on the second
and third floors, Russian chef Ivan Berezutsky has created
a small specialty menu and wine list that boasts the best
selections of European wines. On the weekends, PMI bar
invites popular DJs to perform and also often hosts tours
of the most notable chefs from around the world. But
dont let that intimidate you. At PMI, a friendly and relaxing
atmosphere is king.QD-2, Nab. reky Moiky 7, MNevsky
pr., tel. (+7) 812 907 07 10, www.pmibar.com. Open
12:00 until last guest. . PAESW
The Maze
Before setting off on your own quest for this dining spot, be
sure to note, the restaurant is aptly named: tucked in a quiet
corner of the city centre, it is nestled in the Paradny Kvartal
residential complex. The location makes the walk from the
metro potentially labyrinthine, but thoroughly and wonderfully Petersburgian. If youre looking to add a little quiet to your
Petersburg dining experience, the Caf-Bars casual caf-style
dining provides just the right balance of isolation and activity.
The pan-European (but with emphasis on Italy) menu offers
a wide selection for the whole family to enjoy.QF-2, Paradnaya ul. 3, bldg. 2A, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 600
13 03, www.themazecafebar.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat
11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. . PASW

36 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Ribai
A good juicy steak in St. Petersburg is something of a
delicacy, thus specialty restaurants are relatively rare
and expectedly pricy. The appropriately named Ribai is
a very welcome addition to the otherwise dreary scene:
given the nature of the cuisine, it offers tremendous beef
selections at competitive rates. However, should you opt
for something other than steak, theres another pleasant
surprise in store. Following the glorious traditions of an
American eatery the portions are mammoth and their
delicious entrees (other than seafood) are priced below
whats expected from a joint that looks as classy as Ribai
does.QD-3, Kazanskaya ul. 3, MNevsky pr., tel. +7 (812)
912 96 21, www.ribai.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 02:00. . PTAVESW
Romeos Bar and Kitchen
Near the Mariinsky Theater and a number of new hotels,
Romeos offers some of the highest quality and reasonably
priced Italian food in the city. The dcor and atmosphere
are relaxed, inviting guests to linger and spend cosy evenings with friends or family. Its also a nice place to bring
a date or have a family celebration (a childrens menu is
available). Being a proper Italian restaurant, there is a wide
assortment of fish and to mix it up a bit there is also a wide
selection of Caucasian and Russian starters and mains.QC3, Pr. Rimskogo-Korsakova 43, MSadovaya, tel. (+7)
812 572 54 48, www.romeosbarandkitchen.ru. Open
09:00 - 24:00. . PTALSW

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Where to eat
Italian
Borsalino
Borsalinos Italian head chef has made this restaurant
a destination for tourists and residents alike for years.
Their menu is simple Italian fare, exactingly prepared
and plated and infused with rich, authentic flavour from
all over Italy. An exemplary wine list, professional service
and a regularly changing seasonal menu would be more
than enough to satisfy even without the amazing views
of St. Isaacs Square.QD-3, Angleterre Hotel, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 51 15,
www.angleterrehotel.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00. .
PTAULEGSW
Caffe Italia
The cheerful and charming dcor, with checked tablecloths, sunny yellow walls and Uffizi catalogues on the
bookshelves, already puts this caf above the standard
casual Italian bistro. On offer is a diverse range of authentic
pasta dishes, pizzas, starters and paninis. The mozzarella
stretches about a kilometer and the imported olive oil is
positively succulent. If you can restrain yourself, the gorgeously presented desserts are worth the effort and the
wine list is a spot-on selection of almost exclusively dry
Italian vintages that wont break the bank.QF-3, Pr. Bakunina 5, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 905 64 74, www.
caffe-italia.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PNSW

True Indian cooking


and hospitality
since 1994

20
years

10 Admiralteisky Pr., +7 812 312 3886


www.tandoor-spb.ru

Gusto
A classy and hip little place where local businessmen and
gastrophiles come regularly to feast on excellent Italian
food and good wines. In fact, many of the patrons seem
to just sit down and are immediately served their favourite bottle, followed by a selection of dishes from the chef
without a word being spoken to the waiters. Expect that
kind of attention, atmosphere and food. The menu looks
basic but all the dishes are complex, mouth-watering
masterpieces which benefit from a light hand and subtle
tastes. Be sure to order the bread basket, a selection of
freshly baked, in-house rolls and loaves that are perfect for
mopping up every last drop of sauce.QF-3, Degtyarnaya
ul. 1a, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 941 17 44, www.
gusto-spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00.
. PTALESW
ITALY Bottega
This restaurant is like an Italian grocery - small and very
cosy. All the guests are seated at a large table, as is common in Europe. The menu features traditional Italian
homemade pasta, delicious pizza and several kinds of risotto. Exactly the same menu is represented in Italy West
on Bolshoy pr. 48 and Italy South on Moskovsky pr. 159. But
in Italy Bottega there is also a new section on the menu
- antipasti on wooden boards from Chef Michael Sokolov
and an impressive wine list. After 23:00, wine can be ordered as a takeaway.QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 14, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 966 19 56, www.italy-group.
ru. Open 09:00 - 02:00. . PTASW
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December 2014 - January 2015

37

Where to eat
Makaronniki
Located on the Petrograd side close to the Petrogradsky
sports stadium, this rooftop restaurant gets 11 out of 10
for style points with their famous terrace. Enjoy unusual
views of the Peter and Paul Fortress, the spit of Vasilevsky
Island and the State Hermitage Museum in the background
- along with the domes of other St. Petersburg landmarks.
Makaronniki offers a Mediterranean menu with world class
wines, cocktails, homemade lemonade and Sangria.QC-2,
Pr. Dobrolyubova 16, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 812 677
60 88, www.makaronniki.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
PTALSW
Marcellis
Marcellis is a chain of welcoming Italian restaurants with
a simple style reflecting the usual images of Italy (jars of
condiments and olives here, an Italian meat and cheese
case there), although its the tables full of noisy dinners
that really make the atmosphere unpretentious. The
pared-down menu tends towards pastas and risottos in
marathon-runner-sized portions. With an open kitchen,
Marcellis offers diners yet another possibility to eat quality
Italian food in the heart of the centre. Also at Nevsky pr. 21
(metro Nevsky pr.), ul. Vosstaniya 15 (metro Pl. Vosstaniya), pr. Kosmonavtov 39/27 (metro Moskovskaya) and ul.
Odoevskogo 34 (metro Vasileostrovskaya).QD-3, Nevsky
43, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 984 41 44, www.
marcellis.ru. Open 24hrs. . PTAGSW
Palermo
Palermo is a cosy restaurant a stones throw from Nevsky
pr. and ul. Rubinshteina. The restaurant is decorated in Italian style with frescoes giving you views of Italian beaches
below. The muted, pale blue lighting is reminiscent of
dusk. The soundtrack of classic movies plays softly in the
background, putting you instantly into a relaxed frame of
mind. In keeping with the Italian dcor, Palermo offers a
Mediterranean menu with healthy salads, plenty of olives
and lean meat. Business lunch 12:00 - 16:00, 230Rbl.QE-3,
Nab. reky Fontanky 50, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812
764 37 64, www.palermo-spb.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
. PTAESW
Testo
Pizza and pasta are what they do best here in this novelty little basement bar, named after the Russian word
for dough. They make their own pasta, change the menu
daily and serve up pizza with tasty Italian style thin
crusts and freshly grated parmesan. The grey and red
interior and relaxed atmosphere makes it a perfect spot
for lone diners, lunchers or anyone after a snack. Beers
are available on tap as well as a choice of wines.QD-3,
Grivtsova per. 5/29, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 64
20, www.testogastronomica.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
PTASW

Shchyot budte dobry Check please!


38 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife
The nightlife in St. Petersburg is brilliant. You can eat, drink
and dance around the clock. The city has dimly lit jazz halls,
groovy strip-clubs and a vibrant underground music scene.

Bars and Pubs


Birzha Bar
Birzha Bar is located on Vasilevsky Island which was originally intended to be St. Petersburgs centre. Todat the island is one of St. Petersburgs most attractive areas, and
the Birzha Bar is located on the spit of the island in the old
St. Petersburg Stock Exchange. The bar holds wild dance
nights on Friday and Saturday with live DJs and attracts
Russian and foreign musicians to jazz up your night.QC2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
925 88 06, www.birjabar.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 06:00. . PAEW
Chroniki
Chroniki (Chronicles) bar on ulitsa Nekrasova attempts to
merge the drinking cultures of a modern Scandinavian
bar and a classic Leningrad ryumochnaya (the traditional
Soviet-era watering hole). The stylish interior is very modern yet cosy, simple yet edgy, with white tiled walls, brass
windowsills, gilded antique Soviet chandeliers. The bar
gives you a great view of the classic St. Petersburg architecture on Ul. Nekrasova. The preferred order at Chroniki
is, as per tradition at a Leningrad ryumochnaya, hard alcohol. The numerous types of vodka include Russian, Finnish, Swedish and Danish variations.QE-2, Ul. Nekrasova
26, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 911 275 31 61. Open
18:00 - 02:00. Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00. PAW
Cuba Libre
Upon entering this bar, its immediately obvious that
the theme goes well beyond just the name. The bar is
adorned with Cuban flags, and the remarkable jumble
of spirits behind the bar includes many delicious varieties of rum. More than sufficient seating makes Cuba Libre
a good choice for an umplanned bite to eat. The classic
burgers and platters to share will go down a treat, but its
really at night when the place comes alive. The heaps of
fresh fruit behind the bar promise a refreshing cocktail,
and indeed the menu is so long you might not let yourself
leave until youve sampled a good few.QE-3, Sadovaya
ul. 7-9-11, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 983 55 26, www.
barcubalibre.ru. Open 24hrs. . PAESW
Dead Poets
This is a European style whiskey bar for those who want a
more relaxed atmosphere. Dead Poets markets itself at the
discerning connoisseur who would rather spend the evening sipping whiskey or wine and playing chess or backgammon than running riot in a bar. The choice of whiskey is
impressive and accompanied by a delicious range of snacks.
The bar plays soft background music and has an art nouveau interior.QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 12, MMayakovskogo, tel. (+7) 812 449 46 56, www.dpoets.ru. Open 11:00
- 01:00, Fri - Sun 11:00 - 03:00. . PAW
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Helsinki Bar
This place is like a nostalgia trip to your familial home of
the late 70s. Well, thats the case if you are Finnish and your
parents spun vinyl while slugging horseradish home-brew
liquor. Quirkily retro with toilets wallpapered with vintage
Finnish magazine adverts featuring the latest in polyester
style and a cozy cabin atmosphere in the dining area, the
menu is no less a mixture of swank and substance. There
are classic Russian dishes such as kotleti, but with reindeer
meat and the cod is delicately prepared with sublime wild
rice.QC-2, Kadetskaya Liniya 31, MVasileostrovskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 995 19 95, www.helsinkibar.ru. Open 12:00
- 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 until last guest. PESW
Library Bar
The small and friendly environment has more of a relaxed
pub feel than a restaurant, and indeed as a self proclaimed
gastrobar offers filling but carefully prepared food. The
library-esque wood paneling and plush leather furniture make up for the lack of books, but the venue might
be more of a place to catch some football on the many
screens with a fresh Belgian beer than somewhere to
relax with just a book for company.QD-3, Voznesensky
pr. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 927 39 99, www.
library-bar.ru. Open 24hrs. . PASW
Liverpool
If Beatles covers are your thing, youll enjoy Liverpool - a pub
with local bands playing British retro pop. Liverpool serves
great food in large portions, has screens for sport events
and quite a few beers on offer. Located just a short walk
from Nevsky Prospekt it serves as a good place to relax, play
pool and have beers with friends, while humming or singing
along with your favorite songs.QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 16,
MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 579 20 54, www.liverpool.
ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. . PAW
Terminal Bar
Behind a long smooth bar stretching almost the whole length
of the place, the wall reveals shelves groaning under the
weight of just about any spirit you might fancy. Fortunately
without the reputation of the infamous New York City Terminal bar appearing in Martin Scorseses Taxi Driver, the space
is popular with the trendy folk of the city spread across the bar
stools peppered across the room. There is even a piano here
for those who feel like entertaining.QE-2, Ul. Belinskogo 11,
MMayakovskaya. Open 14:00 until last guest. . PW
December 2014 - January 2015

39

Nightlife
Clubs
Avrora
Avrora bills itself as an entertainment complex and certainly has grand ambitions. The complex features a bowlshaped concert hall that can fit up to 1500 during concerts
and a smaller and more intimate hall, B.B. King, which
hosts smaller concerts and other events. The programme
features a mix of pop, rock, folk, punk, and alternative concerts as well as disco nights and after parties. In much of
the club there is an amazing view of the Big Nevka River
and the Avrora Cruiser.QE-1, Pirogovskaya nab. 5/2,
MPl. Lenina, tel. (+7) 812 907 19 17, www.avrora-zal.ru.
Open 12:00 - 22:00. PALEW
Dom Byta
The owners had their tongues firmly in cheek when
this bar was named after the type of storefronts that
offer everything from plastic tablecloths to watch repair. The interior is pure 70s swank, with burnished
gold wall hangings and a long turquoise bar. Nice
touches like vintage glass ashtrays and antique porcelain teapots show impeccable taste in kitsch and the
DJs are no less sensitive to the mood, playing subtle
electro tracks on quieter nights and amping it up for
the more boisterous weekends.QE-3, Razyezzhaya ul.
12, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812 975 55 99, www.
dombeat.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 07:00. PTAESW

40 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Mishka
Named after the youtube celebrity, Mishka the talking
husky, this tiny basement bar is well done up in grey with
pink accents. All the hipsters are here, with their oversized
glasses and handmade accessories. Theyre tapping their
feet to the DJ whos sharing space with the friendly bartenders.QE-3, Nab. reky Fontanky 40, MNevksky pr.,
tel. (+7) 812 643 25 50, www.mishkabar.ru. Open 12:00
- 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PAEW
Purga
There are two Purgas next to each other on the Fontanka river.
Purga-I celebrates New Years Eve every night complete with
midnight countdown and mock TV address by Russia/Soviet leaders. In Purga-II, couples celebrate mock weddings and
dress up in white plastic creations to look like brides and bridegrooms. Book ahead if you want to get a table.QE-3, Nab.
reky Fontanky 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 570 51 23,
www.purga-club.ru. Open 16:00 - 06:00. PASW
Radiobaby
With its high ceilings and groovy modern dcor, Radiobaby has been cleverly divided with the dance floor, bar and
chill-out room all flowing into one another so you can
rock, drink and relax all in one place. The crowd is a diverse
mix of hipsters and the old-guard and the DJs are local
favorites who know how to keep the energy up.QD-3,
Kazanskaya ul. 7, MNevsky pr., www.radiobaby.com.
Open 18:00 - 06:00. PEW

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Nightlife
Cocktail bars
Bar 812
Weeknights this narrow bar seems like a quiet, unassuming place to sip a cocktail and chat with a date or a friendly
fellow patron. At the weekend, however, the beautiful
people come out to glide past face control and play Carrie
Bradshaw with their cosmos in hand and dance stillettos at
the ready. No beer, just (expertly) mixed drinks.QE-3, Ul.
Zhukovskogo 11, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 956 81
29, www.bar812.ru. Open 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 04:00. PAESW
Daiquiri Bar
Sexy girls in racy outfits and handsome men in suits cover
the walls in this red, white and chrome homage to Sex and
the City. The staff are extremely friendly and the cocktails
professionally made - the house daiquiris are particularly
good. With more than 300 exotic yet reasonably priced
cocktails on the list it can be a good place to start the
weekend. Also at Gorokhovaya ul. 49.QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 943 81 14,
www.dbar.ru. Open 16:00 - 04:00. Fri, Sat 16:00 - 06:00.
PASW
Graf-in
The English meaning of grafin is carafe, which is fitting
since the place is decorated with them. With its trendy
interior, attractive staff and state of the art hookahs, it is
clear that Graf-in caters to the more glamorous crowd.
Wearing casual street clothes may make you feel a little
uncomfortable among all the men in suits. Graf-in offers
a huge cocktail menu that includes your standard drinks
as well as more unusual cocktails like the delicious Berry
Cheesecake. An extensive food menu includes the usual
Italian and Asian selections, plus other dishes like sea bass
and steaks. During the week its pretty quiet, but on the
weekends you should reserve a table. Luckily, all table reservations are free!QC-3, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 601 01 60, www.graf-in.com.
Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri 10:00 - 06:00, Sat 11:00 - 06:00,
Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PTAESW
Tsvetochki
A caf-bar in the true sense of the word. Guests are seated
around a handful of small wooden tables alternatively
drinking pots of tea or complicated cocktails and the music is a mash of country, jazz, soul and nostalgic pop. Dcor
is minimal brick walls and the odd splash of colour with
the trendy good-looking staff an added bonus. Tsvetochki
attracts a young, intelligent set looking to start the night
in a laidback fashion, so leave your bling at home.QE-3, Ul.
Rubinshteina 36, MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 942 07
54. Open 09:00 - 05:00. PAW

Tyomnoe Dark
Svetloe Light (for beer)
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Zing Bar
Cocktails, Russias beautiful artistic youth and a wicked
soundtrack (yes, rock music instead of the Caf del Mar
soundtrack, its possible!) are the draw cards of this stylish
little cocktail bar. The interior is sleek and intimately lit, but not
so much so that you cant actually see anyone or anything
as can be experienced elsewhere. The menu focuses on the
classics and is historically separated into old (19th Century),
recent and modern sections which also includes their own
Russian influenced creations.QD-3, Ul. Lomonosova 14,
MDostoevskaya, tel. (+7) 812 939 39 44. Open 17:00 02:00. PAGW

nightlife - keeping safe

A night out in St. Petersburg is an experience not to be


missed. However, to keep it fun and safe, there are a few
things to keep in mind. Always keep an eye on your drinks.
Bars are often crowded, so even when you have your drink
next to you, make sure someone doesnt slip something in
it. Likewise keep an eye on your jacket, your wallet and any
documents you have with you getting a new passport
really ruins a holiday, especially if youve lost your wallet
as well. Go out with friends, its more fun and means you
can look after each other, and makes you a harder target.
Take registered taxis and dont just jump into any car. Being
kidnapped is a bad way to end a night out. And although it
might seem like a great way to finish the night, be careful
whom you bring home there are cases of people waking
up at home without their wallet, laptop and that cute girl/
guy they met last night. Have a great night out but keep
your wits about you.

Blue Route Pub Crawl


The Dickens cordially invites you on a pub crawl: an adventurous, not particularly strenuous activity for those
faithful who cherish the English tradition of spending
an enjoyable evening wandering from one pleasant
hostelry to the next in the company of friends both
old and new. Come with us on a special trip through
the city centre, punctuated by your favourite wateringholes (youll spot them by their colour: our pub signs,
staff uniforms, even our upholstery is all in the same
dark blue Dickens hue). Collect two stamps on our special Blue Route flyer, and claim your free pint of proper
English ale in the third pub you visit. (Stamps valid for
one day only). Read more at www.dickenspubs.com
December 2014 - January 2015

41

Nightlife

42 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

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Nightlife

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December 2014 - January 2015

43

What to see

St. Petersburgs World-Heritage-Listed city centre is one of


the most awe-inspiring in Europe. Designed by Europes
greatest architects, it was virtually untouched during Soviet
times. They did however add a few hundred apartment monstrosities outside of town. The city has an enormous amount
of individual tourist attractions which remain enchantingly
beautiful and steeped in fascinating history.

The Essentials
Aleksander Nevsky Monastery
Founded by Peter the Great in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St.
Trinity cathedral is worth a visit and so is the cemetery,
where you can visit the graves of Russias greatest composers and writers, including Tchaikovsky, Mussorgsky,
Glinka and Dostoevsky. You can buy fresh holy bread in
the monasterys bakery in the afternoon (on your left as
you approach the Trinity cathedral from the entrance).QF3, Nab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo,
tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Open daily
06:00 - 20:00. Admission free.
Church of the Saviour on the Spilt
Blood
This Moscow-style church with richly coloured onion
domes looks a bit out of place in the European centre of
St. Petersburg, but its one of the citys most beautiful and
memorable landmarks. It got its awkward name because
it was built on the spot where Tsar Alexander II was murdered in 1881. Locals call it the mosaic church because
the interior is covered with magnificent mosaics, each wall
featuring a particular Biblical theme. It was renovated in
the early 1990s and reopened as a museum in 1997.QD2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 250Rbl.
44 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Kazan Cathedral
This cathedral, which was modelled on St. Peters in Rome, is
one of the citys most majestic. It was built from 1801 to 1811
to house the miracle-working Icon Our Lady of Kazan. The
dome is 80-metres high and the colonnade facing Nevsky
has 96 columns. Be warned, its a quiet place and they dont
like you to talk a lot in here, its place of prayer and contemplation.QD-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00
Daily services 10:00 and 18:00. Admission free.
Kunstkamera (Peter the Great Museum
of Anthropology and Ethnography)
St. Petersburgs oldest museum is also its strangest. Kunstkamera (which translates as art house) was founded by
Peter the Great in 1714. It is also known as the Peter the
Great Museum of Anthropology and Ethnography. It has
anthropological and ethnographic collections on the cultures of people around the world as well as an eclectic mix
of random items that Peter and Russian explorers collected on their worldly travels. Peters Anatomical Collection,
with its severed hands and malformed babies in jars, still
draws crowds.QC-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera.
ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the
month. Admission 50 - 250Rbl.

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What to see
Peter and Paul Fortress
The Fortress is the cradle of the city and St. Petersburgs
first settlement. Now a tourist complex, it houses the famous Cathedral of the Saint Apostles Peter and Paul, along
with numerous museums, galleries and spectacular riverside views. The proudest offerings are the large Commandants House museum which examines the history of the
city and the smaller, modern and fun museum at the Neva
Curtain Wall which focuses on the history of the Fortress
itself. However, the more unusual Engineers House and
Museum of Space Exploration are really very quirky and
good. The Mint displays coin collections and the Printing
Workshop contains printing and ceramic relics. Visit the
Neva Curtain Wall archway for the best view, and brave a
dip in the bracing waters at your own risk.QD-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The fortress is open
08:30 - 21:00. All details about museums and cathedral
open hours on the website. Entrance to fortress is free.
All inclusive ticket 370Rbl (ticket valid for all museums).
Russian Museum
A dazzling journey from thirteenth century icons to the
cream of Russian avant-garde, the Russian Museum is
housed in various buildings and palaces. With a maze of
beautifully decorated rooms, the main Mikhailovsky Palace
is a delight for art-lovers, whatever their favoured medium.
It is widely acclaimed for containing the most outstanding
collection of icons from ancient Rus. The Benois Wing has
an especially strong display of work from the turn of the
twentieth century. Tickets can include entrance to the Stroganov Palace, Marble Palace and Mikhailovsky Castle which
host temporary exhibitions. QD-2, Inzhenernaya ul. 4,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.
ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue.
Admission 150 - 350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl.
St. Isaacs Cathedral
Fully restored inside and out, St. Isaacs is one of the worlds
largest and most ornate cathedrals. The interior is adorned
with gold trim, mosaics and paintings. Designed by Auguste de Montferrand and built between 1818 and 1858
the church was named in tribute to Peter the Great, who
was born on the day of St. Isaac of Dalmatia. If it is a clear
day we recommend climbing to the domes top; the panoramic view is absolutely worth the effort.QD-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32,
www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of
the month. Tickets for the cathedral and the colonnade
are sold separately. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl.
Colonnade 150Rbl. Audioguide 100Rbl.

Take note that most museum ticket offices close


one hour before the official closing time.
Also remember most museums ask you to buy
an extra photography ticket if you would like
to take photos or videos
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modern art centres

If modern art is more your thing, you are well provided


for! St. Petersburg is home to many modern art galleries,
including the Anna Nova Art Gallery, which focuses on
young up-and-coming artists, as well as The State Museum and Exhibition Centre for Photography (ROSPHOTO). Other highlights include the S.P.A.S. Gallery,
which is the oldest of its kind in the city, and the Erarta
Museum and Galleries of Modern Art, which is the
biggest non-governmental contemporary museum in
Russia, and houses around 2000 works.
Anna Nova Art Gallery
QE-3, Ul. Zhukovskogo 28, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. +7
(812) 275 97 62, www.annanova-gallery.ru.
Erarta
QB-3, VO, 29-ya linya, 2, MVasileostrovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 324 08 09, www.erarta.com.
Marina Gisich Gallery
QD-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 121, MSadovaya, tel.
(+7) 812 314 43 80, www.gisich.com.
Novy musey
QC-2, VO, 6-ya liniya, 29, MVasileostrovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 323 50 90, www.novymuseum.ru.
S.P.A.S Gallery
QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 93, MSadovaya, tel. (+7)
812 571 42 60, www.spasgal.ru.
ROSPHOTO
QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 35, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 314 12 14, www.rosphoto.org.

CITY CARD
Get the most out of your
trip to St. Petersburg with
the Petersburg Card. This convenient sightseeing card
gives you access to a hop-on hop-off bus trip around
the city and a free river cruise, free entry to more than 40
museums around the city and a free boat trip to Peterhof.
It also gives you discounts for a number of tourist services and restaurants. Whether you are a visitor to the city
with only a couple of days here or an expat wanting to
get to know the ins and outs of this amazing city, the Petersburg Card is a great investment. The card is available
in 2, 3, 5 and 7 day options for your convenience. More
information at www.petersburgcard.com.
December 2014 - January 2015

45

What to see
Churches

Museums

St. Petersburg is home to


many different churches
and monasteries, all with
beautiful architecture.
Of course there is St.
Isaacs Cathedral, which
is the largest Russian Orthodox Cathedral in the
city, and one of the largest domed cathedrals in
the world. It houses a
museum, and it is possible to walk up to the colonnade
for fantastic views of the city. The distinctive Church of the
Saviour on the Spilt Blood is no longer consecrated, but is
now a museum of mosaics. The unique Kazan Cathedral
dominates Nevsky Prospect, and the Troitsky Cathedral
with its blue domes overlooks the Fontanka Canal. These
buildings give wonderful glimpses into Russias past.
Smolny Cathedral
QF-2, Pl. Rastrelli 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812
710 31 59, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, belltower 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 150Rbl,
concerts 200 - 700Rbl. Bell-tower 100Rbl.
St. Nicholas Cathedral
QC-3, Nikolskaya pl. 1/3, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812
714 70 85, www.nikolskiysobor.ru. Open 06:30 - 19:30.
Daily services 07:00, 10:00, 18:00. Admission free.
Troitsky Cathedral
QD-4, Izmailovsky pr. 7a, MTekhnologichesky Institut, tel. (+7) 812 251 89 27, www.izmsobor.ru. Open
08:00 - 19:00. Daily services 10:00, Fri - Sun 17:00.
Vladimirsky Cathedral
QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 20, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7)
812 312 19 38, www.vladimirsobor.spb.ru. Open 08:00 19:30. Services daily 09:00, 18:00. Sun 07:00, 10:00.

St. Petersburg has been described as a living museum under the open skies, and for good reason! There is something
for everyone!
Artillery Museum
QD-2, Aleksandrovsky park 7 (entrance from Kronverkskaya nab.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232
02 96, www.artillery-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Tue and last Thu of the month. Admission
50 - 300Rbl.
Museum of the St. Petersburg
Avant-garde (Matyushin house)
QD-1, Ul. Professora Popova 10, MPetrogradskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 347 68 98, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open
11:00 - 18:00, Tue 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission
60 - 100Rbl.
Museum of Political History of Russia
QD-2, Ul. Kuibysheva 2-4 (entrance from Kronversky pr.),
MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 233 70 52, www.polithistory.
ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Thu and
last Mon of the month. Admission 60 - 150Rbl.
Yusupov Palace
QC-3, Nab. reky Moiky 94,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
314 98 83, www.yusupovpalace.ru. Open 11:00 17:00. Group tours should
be booked in advance by
phone (+7) 812 314 88 93.
Excursions 150 - 500Rbl.
Audioguide 500Rbl.

Russian Vodka Museum


Vodka Museum
This small museum presents the long history of
Russias national drink,
from 12th Century peasants through to 20th Century presidents. Display
cases full of vodka bottles
in unusual shapes, old advertising campaigns and
some funny dioramas explain the evolution of the Russian firewater. An official
excursion is recommended as the exhibits are in Russian only. In the tasting room, theres also a chance to
try out three different vodkas and traditional Russian
snacks.QC- 2, Konnogvardeisky bul. 4, MNevsky
pr., tel. (+7) 812 570 64 22, www.vodkamuseum.su.
Open 12:00 - 19:00. Admission 170Rbl.
46 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Lyrical City
With so many wonderful writers and poets who were
born in and inspired by St. Petersburg, you cannot leave
the city without visiting one of the museums honouring
them.
F.M.Dostoevsky Literary-Memorial
Museum
QE-3, Kuzhnechny per. 5/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7)
812 571 40 31, www.md.spb.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon and on public holidays. Admission 30 160Rbl. Audioguide 100 - 170Rbl. Guided tours should
be booked in advance by phone.
Memorial flat of Alexander Blok
QC-2, Ul. Dekabristov 57, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 713
86 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Tue
11:00 - 17:00. Closed Wed. Admission 60 - 100Rbl.
Nabokov Museum
QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 47, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 315 47 13, www.nabokovmuseum.org. Open
11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Pushkin Apartment Museum
QD-2, Nab. reky Moiky 12, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
571 35 31, www.museumpushkin.ru. Open 10:30 18:00. Closed Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission 40
- 250Rbl. Audioguide 250Rbl.
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What to see
Historical Outskirts
Russias winter offers pleasures of its own. There is no better
weekend escape than spending some time at one of the
many parks and palaces that surround the city. It is a great
opportunity to see the palaces without the bustling crowds
of tourists, or wander through the snow covered parks. The
snow and the quiet, the soft crunch of snow beneath your
feet all help to calm the soul and give you a chance to prepare yourself for the upcoming year. If you are tired of being
cooped up at your apartment or in the office, then head
out for cross-country skiing or ice-skating, build a snow
castle or snowman, ambush your friends and have a snow
fight. Dress warmly and have fun in the snow!
Oranienbaum
Oranienbaum (Orange Tree) isnt quite as popular among
tourists as other similar palaces, but its nonetheless a
lovely place for a walk through peaceful gardens and
pine woods. Prince Alexander Menshikov, one of Peter
the Greats best friends, started building the estate and its
Grand Palace. Catherine the Great made it one of her holiday spots and built a small Chinese palace with baroque
outside and rococo within.QTel. (+7) 812 423 16 33,
www.oranienbaum.org. Check opening times online.
Pavlovsk
Subtle, romantic, relaxing and quiet. All perfect words to
describe Pavlovsk. The enchanting Pavlovsk Palace, with
its magnificent neoclassical interior, is a feast for the eyes.
The country residence of the Imperial family boasts beautiful architecture and captivating history.QTel. (+7) 812
452 15 36, www.pavlovskmuseum.ru. Check opening
times online.

Peterhof Palace and Park


Accurately referred to as the Russian Versailles, Peterhof
is one of Russias number one tourist attractions and it is
worth visiting at any other time of year. The Great Palace
was built between 1709 and 1724 under the directions of
Peter the Great, but the tsars and tsarinas that followed
each wanted to make their own mark, adding another
palace or fountain to the grounds. The focal point of
the whole ensemble is the jaw-dropping cascade fountain leading down from the palace. From there the park
spreads out to the left and right along the coastline with
trick fountains, pyramid fountains, marble sculptures and
lots of other impressive stuff.QTel. (+7) 812 450 52 87,
www.peterhofmuseum.ru. Check opening times online.
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Getting there
Pushkin Pavlovsk
Pushkin and Pavlovsk are located about 20km south of
St. Petersburg.
By bus/marshrutka: From Moskovskaya metro station:
for Pushkin take marshrutka 286, 287, 342, 347, 382 or
take public bus 187; for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 299.
From Kupchino metro station: for Pushkin take bus 186,
for Pavlovsk take marshrutka 286.
By train: For Pushkin take a train from Vitebsky train
station (Pushkinskaya metro station) to Detskoe Selo.
From there you can walk to Catherines Palace (20min)
or take bus 371, 382 or marshrutka 371, 377, 382.
For Pavlovsk take a train from Vitebsky train station to
Pavlovsk. From there you can take bus 370, 383, 493 or
marshrutka 513, 299, 286. You can also take a train from
Kupchino metro/train station.
Peterhof Oranienbaum
Peterhof is located about 30km west of St. Petersburg
on the Finnish gulf and Oranienbaum is located 40km
west of St. Petersburg.
By bus/marshrutka: From Avtovo metro station take
marshrutka (commercial bus) 224, 300, 424 or 424a. You
can also take public buses 200, 210. From Baltisky train
station (Baltiskaya metro station): marshrutka 404. From
Pr. Veteranov metro station: marshrutka 343, 639b. From
Leninsky pr. metro station: marshrutka 103(K224).
By train: Take a train from Baltisky train station to Novy
Peterhof. These trains leave in the directions of Kalishe,
Oranienbaum or Krasnoflotsk. Once in Novy Peterhof,
take buses 349, 350, 351, 352, 355, 356, warn the driver
that you want to exit next to the fountains.
Pushkin
Tsarskoe Selo or Pushkin? Both names still apply to one of
St. Petersburgs most famous imperial villages. The summer home of the Romanov tsars for centuries, Tsarskoe
Selo or the Royal Village was renamed Pushkin following the communist revolution in honour of one of its
other well-known residents, the poet Alexander Pushkin.
Regardless of the time of year, sightseeing opportunities
abound, from the spectacular Catherine Park filled with
quirky monuments commissioned by the Empress to the
quieter Alexander Palace where the last Tsars spent their
final days before they were arrested by the Bolsheviks.
QTel. (+7) 812 415 76 67, www.tzar.ru. Check opening
times online.

December 2014 - January 2015

47

Hermitage

The director of the Hermitage once said, I cant say that the
Hermitage is the number one museum in the world, but its
certainly not number two. With over three million works of
art and treasures housed in five connected buildings along
the Neva, the museum cant fail to impress.

250 years
This year the world-acclaimed museum celebrated its 250th
anniversary. The museums central building, the so-called
Winter Palace, was originally constructed as a winter residence for Empress Elizabeth Petrovna. Architect Bartolommeo Francesco Rastrellis magnificent baroque-style design
was approved in 1754, but was not completed until eight
years later, at the end of Elizabeths reign. In the fall of 1763,
Empress Catherine II arrived in St. Petersburg as the new
mistress of the palace and commissioned new architects
and designers to transform the palace to suit her preference
for neoclassical style. It is thanks to the efforts and desires of
Empress Catherine the Great that the Hermitage has become
the incredible museum it is today. During her 34-year reign,
the Empress commissioned the construction of the Large
and Small Hermitages and the Hermitage Theatre. Not only
that, but she also personally purchased the art collections
that form the basis of the Hermitages collection today.
The year 1764, when Catherine acquired the Johan Gotzkowsky collection, is known as the Hermitage Museums
official birthday. Gotzkowsky was a Berlin merchant and an
agent of Prussias King Frederick II. Originally, he put together the magnificent collection of old masters under Frederick IIs commission. However, when the King was unable to
finance the purchase, Gotzkowsky looked for other buyers
and Catherine II was more than happy to take the offer.

250 years after Catherines provident purchase,


which includes over 250 works by Flemish and
Dutch masters, the museum has expanded its collection into one of the largest in the world.
48 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

The museum today


Visiting the Hermitage should definitely be on the top of
your must-do list in St. Petersburg. However, the museum
houses so many works, that it is impossible to see everything in one visit. In fact, its said that if you were to spend
just one minute looking at every piece in the museum, you
would need a total of 11 years of non-stop looking to see
them all!
That being said, its best to enter armed with a museum
map that will help you strategize and design your personal
excursion in the vast space. Also remember to give yourself plenty of time and try to go on a weekday to avoid the
crowds or even take a virtual tour. Four hours is probably an
absolute minimum amount of time to spend there if you
want to see the main state rooms and some of the most
popular artworks.
The museums art collection covers all of the greatest
European movements. Lovers of the renaissance should
head to the Italian rooms, where the Da Vincis, Canalettos, Michaelangelos and Raphaels are housed . The
Rembrandt room is another must-see, as are the nearby
El Grecos. The great impressionists like Gaugin, Van Gogh,
Degas, Matisse, Picasso and the gang are all up on the top
floor where there is also a very large selection of Oriental
and Middle Eastern art.
The ground floor houses the museums treasures of ancient
Greece, Rome, Egypt and Persia as well as antiquities from
the near and central east. There are also a number of cafes
and shops on the ground floor, just to the right of the main
staircase after the entrance to the museum, where you can
take a break and re-energize.
The largest number of opulent state rooms, such as the
throne rooms, ballrooms, boudoirs, the spectacular clock
room with its huge peacock clock and other libraries and
parlours, are largely located on the first floor (which in
Russia is the 2nd floor) of the Winter Palace and lead off
in different directions from the Jordan staircase (where you
enter the museum, just after the ticket offices).
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Hermitage
A treasure trove

Icons at the Hermitage

Though the State Hermitage Museum is known primarily


for its art collection, the museum also houses a treasure
trove of gold masterpieces, dating back to early antiquity, and diamonds worthy of any safe deposit box.
The Hermitages collection of gold artefacts dates back
to the eighth century B.C.. The collection traces the rise
and fall of early Eurasian peoples, as they lived and passed
through the Ukrainian steppes, the Caucasus, the Altai
and Siberia.
The first gold artefacts date to the time of the Scythians a
nomadic group that moved into the southern steppes from
Central Asia. Their art includes belt clasps depicting fighting animals, torques and arm bands. The Scythians traded
with the Greek colonies on the Black Sea Coast. Depictions of these warlike people, who inhabited a broad area
of what is now Russian and Ukrainian territory, are found
in the fine work by Greek goldsmiths. Descriptions of the
Scythians also survive today in the works of Greek historian
Herodotus.
The Scythians were replaced by later tribes who moved
into the region, including the Sarmatians, Volga Bulgarians
and Khazars. Each tribe has left their archaeological traces
behind. One of the more exciting traces on display is the
gold work of the Hunns, whose existence entered popular folklore during the time of the Great Migrations (fifth
century A.D), when their leader Attila invaded the Roman
Empire.
While the works in the gold rooms are fascinating both
for their historical interest and the skill of their execution, the Diamond room works are also an impressive
display of opulence, wealth, and skill. The rooms include
a range of diplomatic gifts presented to various tsars, including twenty items from the time of the Great Moghuls,
which were a diplomatic gift from Shah Nadir of Persia to
the Russian Empire in 1741. They include gold vessels for
fragrances, enamelled boxes and trays, a lidded cup and a
miniature table. Also on display is a remarkable ring, used
to draw the string of a gold bow, with a large diamond,
emeralds and rubies. It belonged to Shah Jahan, who
built the Taj Mahal.
The museum also houses a unique collection of 17th century Indian jewellery and magnificent eastern weaponry,
including swords and daggers sheathed in gold and silver
scabbards and decorated with precious stones.
A pride of the Hermitage collection is a caravel pendant
incorporating a magnificent Columbian emerald, complemented by gold and enamel. It was made by Spanish
craftsmen in the late 16th century.
The jewellery collection concludes with items produced by
St. Petersburgs leading jewellers. St. Petersburg attracted
craftsmen from all over Europe and at one time boasted
such masters as Jrmie Pauzi, Jean-Franois Xavier Boudd, Johann Gottlieb Scharff, Jean-Pierre Ador and the Thremin brothers. The Imperial court and Russian aristocracy
commissioned the crafting of refined luxury items, such as
watches, clocks, bouquets, rings, brooches and snuffboxes,
the fashion for which endured in Russia for over a century.

The museums collection of ancient Russian icons allows


viewers to take a closer look at examples of paintings from
antiquity and to deeply immerse themselves in the atmosphere of past centuries. The exhibition presents works from
various schools of iconography, each of which displays its
own unique characteristics.
The art of monumental painting from Great Novogorod is
on display in the 14th century icon collection Saint Nikolai.
The collection is notable for its two large-scale icons, The
Last Judgment and The Life of Nikolai. It also features two
double-sided icon-tablets, created at the turn of the 16th
century, impressing for their artistic value as well as the
high quality of their preservation.
Among the icons from Pskov, the icon The Epiphany (early
14th c.) deserves the most attention. In this great work, the
salient features that make the Pskov school unique are easily visible. Besides this work, the collection also stands out
for its display of the two-sided icon that unites the images
of the Savior and Our Lady icons (early 14th c.).
The icons created by the Moscow masters constitute a substantial part of the exhibition. Among them, the works of
various types of iconography are on display, including examples of celebratory, Christ and prophetic iconographies.
Also on display are the remarkable blue-backgrounded
icons The Transfiguration and The Birth of Christ, both
created in 16th century.
The collection also includes icons from the Northern Letters, which were created in the northern territories. These
icons were painted by an array of authors, including members of the secular and clerical clergy, trades people and
peasants, and are notable for their incredible display of
craftsmanship. The earliest icons included in this collection are the works with depictions of Christ, the Apostle
Peter, St. Ilya and St. Nikolai, which were produced in the
northern regions of the Novgorod lands in the 13th-14th
centuries.

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December 2014 - January 2015

QD-2, Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from Dvortsovaya pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79,
www.hermitagemuseum.org. Open 10:30 - 18:00,
Wed 10:30 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 400Rbl.
Audioguide 350Rbl. You can buy tickets at the ticket
offices inside the museum and via special terminals
at the entrance to the Great Courtyard. Excursion bureau (+7) 812 571 84 46.

49

Pskov

One of Russias oldest, most historically significant, yet least


well known cities: welcome to Pskov!
Situated a mere 20 kilometres from the Estonian border,
Pskov is a perfect city for those who want to explore ancient
Russian culture before heading off to the bigger centres.
The first written reference to Pskov dates back to the year
903 in the Povest Vremennykh Let (Chronicles of the Old
Years) with the marriage of Igor, prince of Kievan Rus, to
Olga of Pskov (c. 890 969). Prince Igors bride is still honoured in the Russian Orthodox Church.
In its heyday, Pskov was a major trading hub, Kievan Russ
largest partner within the Hanseatic Union, and one of
the richest cities in the country. Aside from its commercial
value, Pskov was also one of the countries most important
fortresses, a bastion-city surrounded by five thick stone
walls, unique in contemporary Europe.
Pskovs wealth and strategic significance earned it a fair
deal of unwelcome attention. Approximately one third
of the citys medieval history was spent at war, including battles with Tatar-Mongol and Swedish troops. One
of the most epic battles fought near Pskov was the Battle
on the Ice, won by the legendary hero Alexander Nevsky
(c. 1120 1263).
More recently, Pskov bore witness to the end of the Russian
Empire, as Nicholas II (1868 1918) was stripped of his title
of emperor at the citys train station. A plaque referring to
this historical moment can still be found there today.
Pskov today is not as glorious as it was a thousand years
ago, but thats not to say that visiting the city and the wider
region would be a waste of your time far from it. From
its old city walls to its ancient monasteries, Pskov still encapsulates some of the most fascinating aspects of Russias
extraordinary history.
Pskov may be the regional capital, but the smaller settlements surrounding the former fortress are just as interesting. Old Izborsk and Pechory, both situated not too far away
from Pskov proper, are must-sees when visiting the region.
50 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

If youre willing to spend a little more time travelling, the


Pushkin Hills should also undoubtedly be included in your
trip itinerary. With its rich history and interesting sights, the
Pskov region will provide you with more than enough to
explore.

Where to stay
No matter how long you plan to stay in Pskov, it is important to find an accommodation that suits all of your
wishes and needs. Pskov is not as accustomed to tourists
as Moscow or St. Petersburg, so do not expect to find grand
and luxurious hotels with shiny crystal chandeliers. Pskov
does, however, offer a wide selection of accommodation,
whether you are a businessman looking for a suitable place
to prepare your work, or a weary traveler looking for a roof
over your head and a pillow beneath it. We have made a list
of the best hotels currently available in Pskov.
Hotel Rizhskaya
QRizhsky pr. 25, tel. (+7) 8112 56 22 23, www.rijskaya.
ru. 265 rooms.
Old Estate Hotel & Spa
QVerkhne-Beregovaya ul. 4, tel. (+7) 8112 79 45 45,
www.oldestatehotel.com. 50 rooms.
Oktyabrskaya Hotel
QOktyabrsky pr. 36, tel. (+7) 8112 66 42 46, www.okthotel.ru. 120 rooms.
Hotel & Restaurant Dvor Podznoeva
QUl. Nekrasova 1, tel. (+7) 8112 79 70 00, www.dvorpodznoeva.ru. 75 rooms.
Hotel 903
QUl. M. Gorkogo 2B, tel. (+7) 8112 57 05 57, www.
pskov903.ru. 15 rooms.
Hotel Golden Embankment
QUl. Sovetskaya Naberezhnaya 2, tel. (+7) 8112 62 78
77, www.zn-hotel.ru. 15 rooms.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Pskov
What to see
Pskov city walls
The remnants of the once great fortress of Pskov can literally be found on the citys streets. The five stone walls that
once surrounded the city have been reduced to a mere
shadow of their former glory, but are nonetheless an interesting site to behold, especially the old towers which
give a clear image of just how strong this city once was.
It is possible to enter some of the towers near the Kremlin
of Pskov and walk along the stone fortifications. Proceed
with caution when walking directly beside a wall when
hard winds are blowing, the structures are old and pieces
of stone can crumble down some of the weak points!
Pskov State Museum
The state museum of Pskov consists of multiple buildings,
now united under one name. The central building of the
museum hosts various exhibitions dedicated to Pskov and
its region. Directly attached to the main building are the
famous Pogankiny chambers, named after a rich nobleman
who once resided here. In these chambers you will find
various paintings and works of art. Aside from these main
buildings, there are 5 more parts of the Pskov State museum
spread throughout the town. Every part of the museum
has its own theme. Join a master class with a Russian blacksmith, or an excursion in the open storage fund collection.
Keep in mind that not all buildings share the same working
hours!QUl. Nekrasova ul. 7, tel. (+7) 8112 66 33 11, www.
museums.pskov.ru. Open 11:00 18:00. Closed Mon.
Monuments
The long history of Pskov has left its mark in the form of
public monuments. They can be found basically everywhere in the city center, the parks and the city outskirts.
Some of the most interesting monuments can be found
near the city centre, for example the monument dedicated to Alexander Pushkin, Russias legendary and most
famous poet. Another monument of significance is the
monument of St. Olga, whose name is often linked to the
creation of Pskov. One of the most impressive monuments
is situated a bit further outside town, on the Sokolikha Hill
(Falcon Hill). This particular monument is dedicated to
Alexander Nevsky, the legendary Russian hero. With a
height of no less than 30 meters, this monument will make
you feel like you are a character in a Tolkien story!
Parks
Pskov has some very nice parks where you can either walk,
or sit down to enjoy the atmosphere. The Detsky Park
(Childrens Park) can be found near the centre of the city,
and is a perfect place to see how Russian families spend
their free time. The park has a merry-go-round and pony
rides to entertain the children. You can also find two of
the citys many churches inside this park. A little further
into town is the Letny Sad (Summer Garden), where
occasionally small feasts or events are organized. A walk
in these parks will most certainly clear your mind of any
troubles.
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Getting There
Two long-distance trains depart from St. Petersburgs
Vitebsky Vokzal (metro Pushkinskaya) daily, also stopping in Pskov. Both trains depart at 19:40.
You can also take an elektrichka from Baltisky Vozkal
(metro Baltiskaya), which departs daily at 07:05.
Pskov has a small airport and its own airline, Pskovavia,
so if you do not wish to spend 4-5 hours inside a bus
or train, you can choose to fly to Pskov. Flights from St.
Petersburg Pulkovo Airport depart on Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. A plane ticket will cost
you about 1200Rbl and the duration of the trip will be
approximately 1 hour.
Alternatively, you can easily get from St. Petersburg to
Pskov by bus. There are several dedicated companies
that will take you to Pskov within 4 hours and, to make
things even better, most offer free WiFi on board. When
traveling with one of these companies, be sure to reserve your tickets beforehand.
Autograf minibus
Daily schedule: 07:30, 09:00, 11:30, 14:00, 17:00, 18:30,
20:30. Leaves from metro Park Pobedy.QTickets
550Rbl (kids under 12 years old 400Rbl). Tel. (+7) 911
397 22 55, www.auto-graf.ru.
Avtovizit minibus
Daily schedule: 05:00, 07:00, 09:00, 13:00, 15:00, 17:00,
19:00, 21:00. Leaves from metro Park Pobedy.QTickets
500Rbl (kids under 7 years old free, from 7 years old
to twelve years old 350Rbl). Tel. (+7) 911 888 01 40,
www.avtovizit.com.
Avtofavorit bus
Daily schedule: 07:00, 08:00, 10:00, 12:00, 14:00, 16:00,
18:00, 20:00, 22:00, 24:00 (additional trips Friday at
17:00, 19:00). Leaves from Hotel Park Inn (metro Moskovskaya).QTickets 550Rbl (kids up to 10 years 400Rbl).
www.napiter.ru.

Getting around
Pskov is not a very large city by Russian standards, so
you should not have any trouble finding your way
around on foot. The city bus service is comprehensive,
and a ticket - which you buy from the conductor, just
like in the old days - will set you back just 18Rbl. Taxis
are also a common form of transport in Pskov and are
very useful if you are not sure which bus to take. Prices
start around 80Rbl, so expect to pay between 100150Rbl per ride. The train station and main bus station
can be found at the same place in the south-eastern
part of town, and the no. 17 bus will take you right to
the city centre. For additional information, pay a visit to
the Pskov Tourist Information desk inside the Oktyabr
cinema. QPl. Lenina 3, tel. (+7) 8112 272 25 32,
www.tourism.pskov.ru. Open 10:00 18:00.
December 2014 - January 2015

51

Pskov
Churches
It is well nigh impossible to look around you in Pskov
and not see a church, if not two or three. No less than
40 churches have been built inside or near the city, the
oldest of which dates back to the 12th century, while
some are a lot more recent. Pskov is a paradise for those
interested in old Russian architecture and religion.
Some of the churches are no longer in use and are in
a somewhat derelict state, but most are still used and
open to the public. Keep in mind that many churches
demand that women wear a platok (scarf ) around their
heads. It is not uncommon for churches to have some
spare ones that you can use, but having your own saves
you having to ask at every church you enter.

Trinity Cathedral
Surrounded by the mighty city walls in the centre of
Pskov stands the Trinity Cathedral, also known as the
Pskov kremlin. The kremlin is the first stop for most
tourists who visit the city, and is the main icon of
Pskov. Situated on top of a hillside, the Trinity Cathedral is an impressive sight to behold, especially when
you are standing in its courtyard. Aside from being the
citys main tourist attraction, the cathedral is also used
as a regular church by the inhabitants of Pskov. The
kremlin also has its own souvenir shop where you can
buy such things as religious icons, wooden cutlery, or
wooden spiked maces. To each his own!
Mirozhsky Monastery
As one of the few pre-Mongol buildings that survived
in Pskov, the Mirozhsky Monastery has a long and incredible history. The monasterys Christ Transfiguration
Cathedral is known for its beautiful frescoes, which have
been preserved since the 12th century. Entrance into
the monastery is free and occasionally interactive excursions are held. Paying the monastery a visit just to stroll
through its garden is already a good enough reason to
do so. The monastery grounds have a certain silence
and serenity that make them a perfect place to enjoy
a moment of rest, and the site has been included on
the UNESCO list of outstanding architectural landmarks.
QMirozhskaya nab. 2, tel. (+7) 8112 57 64 03, www.
mirozhsky-monastery.ru. Admission free.
52 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

outside PSKOV
Old Izborsk
When visiting Pskov it is almost mandatory to also visit the
neighboring town, Old Izborsk. Just like Pskov, Izborsk used
to be a fortress rather than a city. It was one of the first towns
that invading enemies would encounter, so Izborsk was one
of the first Russian towns to build stone fortifications for protection. What truly draws tourists (especially Russians) to Izborsk are its Slovenian water springs, which supposedly each
hold a certain virtue. Do not be surprised to see people walking around with big jugs or bottles - in fact, be sure to bring
your own!Qwww.museum-izborsk.ru. Various expositions
at Izborsk will cost between 40-100Rbl, and audio guides
(either in English or Russian) for the town are available at a
cost of 500Rbl. To get to Izborsk, take bus 126 from Pskov
central station (08:00, 12:00, 13:20, and 17:05) or bus route
no.207 (11:00 except Mon, 15:30, 19:38 except Tue and
Thu). Bus tickets can be bought at the station.
Pechory
This settlement is noteworthy for the Pskov-caves Monastery, the only monastery that has never been closed at
any point during its existence. The monastery currently
consists of nine churches, which are all quite a sight to
behold. Most interesting however are the caves beneath
the monastery, which serve as a burial site for pilgrims
and monks, but are open to the public.Qwww.pskovopechersky-monastery.ru. You can reach Pechory by
taking bus 126 from Pskov central station (08:00,
13:30) or bus 207 (11:00 except Mon, 15:30, 19:38 except Tue and Thu). Bus tickets can be bought at the
station.

Pushkin Hills
Due south of Pskov lie the picturesque Pushkin Hills. The
entire area is pretty much an open air museum situated
around the former Pushkin family mansion. The hills breathe
19th century atmosphere, and are a great place to discover
some of the incredible scenery that can be found in Russia.
Alexander Pushkin spent two years in exile at this estate, and
it was here that he wrote some of his most famous works.
Just like many other places in the region, the Pushkin Hills
are not exactly adapted to tourists, so non-Russians speakers might have some troubles with navigating. It is wise to
find a guide who can help you get there and show you the
way around the estate, because no matter how beautiful
the hills are, you do not want to get lost.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Pskov
Where to eat
You will never be hungry when you are in Pskov as the city
is bursting with restaurants and cafes. While most hotels offer breakfast, lunch and dinner, it might be more interesting
to head into town and have a look at the many cafes and
restaurants. Whether you are looking for a cup of coffee or
traditional Russian cuisine, you will easily find a place to still
your hunger and quench your thirst. Restaurants in Pskov
are relatively cheap, especially when compared to cities like
Moscow. We have listed some of our favourite restaurants
and cafes in Pskov especially for you!
Pozharka Tavern
The soothing smell of a burning fireplace and smoked
meat greets you as you walk through the big wooden
doors of Pozharka tavern. Once inside you will find yourself inside a rustic, warm and cosy tavern with an upper
and lower floor. The view from the upper level is gorgeous,
allowing you to see the Kremlin. The restaurant has some
tasty Russian dishes and dishes prepared on an open fire,
but the true specialties come from the taverns very own
smokehouse. An English menu is available for those who
need it, but it hasnt been updated in quite a while resulting in small price differences with the Russian menu. Make
sure you check the correct prices on the Russian menu
before ordering to avoid surprise after enjoying your meal.
QNabat ul. 2A, tel. (+7) 911 381 00 65, www.pozharkapskov.ru. Open 11:00 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 02:00. .
Dvor Podznoeva Halls
The Dvor Podznoeva Hotel includes several types of catering options for guests staying at the hotel, and people
who are looking for a place to eat. The signpost at the
inner courtyard directs you to either the restaurant, the
beer hall, the wine hall, or the pastry hall. In the restaurant,
waiters and waitresses dressed in traditional Russian garb
welcome you and bring you to your seat. Most of the interior of the building has not changed, giving it an authentic
and elegant atmosphere. Aside from the Russian dishes on
the menu, you should definitely not skip the homemade
kvas, which is absolutely delicious. That royal feeling you
get when a waitress refills your glass yet again is free of
charge. Q Ul. Nekrasova ul. 1, tel. (+7) 8112 79 70 00,
www.dvorpodznoeva.ru. .
Double Coffee
With its red and black interior, Double Coffee displays a
modern style. The establishment functions as a bar, caf
and restaurant in one, making the menu a versatile one.
From breakfast to flashy cocktails, you can sit down at
Double Coffee at any time of the day. The restaurant is
fit for various occasions, such as having a drink with your
friends, organising a business lunch, or having a romantic dinner. The restaurant is situated quite close to Detsky
Park, so it is also a convenient place for those who want to
rest their weary feet after a walk. QOktyabrsky pr. 20, tel.
(+7) 8112 66 35 39, www.doublecoffee.lv. Open 10:00
24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 01:00. .
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Nightlife
Pskov is not only a city of historical richness, it is also a
city with many students, who need to unwind after a long
week of studying hard. What better way to do that than
to enjoy a good night out? Pskov has a variety of clubs,
each with its own face and style. If you like to show your
moves on the dance floor, Pskov has a couple of places
where you can boogey down all night long. When local
Russians notice you are not from Russia, they will most
likely try to have a conversation with you, even if they only
know a couple of words in English. Do not be afraid to
converse with people, as they tend to be very friendly and
are genuinely interested. Below youll find a few places
where you can party as much as you like.
TIR Club
Located next to one of the city walls, TIR is a club that
truly has its own identity. The underground style of the
bar is reflected by the unusual decorations and music
playlists, which offer all types of music. Even some of
the dishes on the menu contribute to the unorthodox image of club. The club regularly organises music
events, which are held near the stage in the back of the
club. During events you will have to pay admission to
enter the club, otherwise you can just drop in and have
a drink. QUl. Sverdlova 52, tel. (+7) 8112 62 10 54,
www.tirclub.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest, Sat, Sun
16:00 until last guest. .
Super
Situated at the very end of the main street, Super is a
complex which houses a number of clubs and bars. It is
possible to enter all of the clubs in the building, but keep
in mind that some are a bit more exclusive. You can play
snooker, go bowling and, if you are up to the challenge, reserve a karaoke room for you and your friends. The clubs in
Super often host performances, concerts and even boxing
events, so keep your eyes peeled for interesting happenings! QOktyabrsky pr. 56, tel. (+7) 8112 66 06 06, www.
superpskov.ru.
December 2014 - January 2015

53

Where to stay
Whether you are visiting St. Petersburg for a night or a
month, you want to be able to stay in a hotel which allows
you to get the most out of your visit. We have a selection
of hotels ranging from luxury five star hotels to boutique
mini-hotels filled with charm. You can find out where these
hotels are located and what market they cater to. The traveller looking to stretch their budget will appreciate the
centrally located hostels and dormitories just as much as
the high flying business executive who is looking for a quiet
place to unwind after a hectic day of negotiations and cultural programmes.

5 Stars
Angleterre Hotel
QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193
rooms.
Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380
20 01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms.
Domina Prestige Hotel St. Petersburg
Q-3, Nab. reky Moiky 99, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 385 99 00, www.dominarussia.com. 109 rooms.
Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace
St. Petersburg
QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/.
183 rooms.
Golden Garden boutique Hotel
QE-3, Vladimirsky pr. 9, MDostoyevskaya, tel. (+7) 812
334 22 33, www.goldengarden.ru. 23 rooms.
Grand Hotel Europe
QD-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms.
Hotel Astoria
QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms.
Kempinski Hotel Moika 22
QD-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg.
197 rooms.
Radisson Royal Hotel
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 49/2, MVladimirskaya, tel. (+7) 812
322 50 00, www.radisson.ru/hotel-stpetersburg. 164
rooms.
Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge
QC-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms.
Taleon Imperial Hotel
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. 89 rooms.
W St. Petersburg
QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 610 61 61, www.wstpetersburg.com. 137 rooms.

U menya zabronirovan nomer


I have a reservation
54 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay
4 Stars
Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg
Center West Pushkin Hotel
QC-4, Nab. kan. Griboedova 166 (entrance via
Kanonerskaya ul. 33), MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812 610 50
00, www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.ru. 273 rooms.
Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg
Vasilievsky
QC-2, 2-ya liniya 61/30 A, MVasileostrovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 380 40 11, www.courtyardsaintpetersburg.ru.
214 rooms.
Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport
the hotel and the city centre and between the two airport
terminals.QStartovaya ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. 294 rooms.
Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky
QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. 195 rooms.
Holiday Inn Moskovskye Vorota
metro.QMoskovsky pr. 97A, MMoskovskie Vorota, tel.
(+7) 812 448 71 27, www.hi-spb.com. 557 rooms.
Hotel Indigo St.Petersburg Tchaikovskogo
QE-2, Ul. Tchaikovskogo 17, MChernyshevskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 454 55 77, www.ihg.com. 119 rooms.
Novotel St. Petersburg Centre
QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. 233 rooms.

Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky


QE-3, Nevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73
10, www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpetersburg. 269 rooms.
Park Inn by Radisson Pulkovskaya
and beds.QPl. Pobedy 1, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 740 39 00, www.parkinn.com/hotelpulkovskayastpetersburg. 841 rooms.
Radisson Sonya Hotel
QE-2, Liteiny pr. 5/19, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812
406 00 00, www.radisson.ru/sonyahotel-stpetersburg.
173 rooms .
Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky
QC-3, 9-ya Liniya 11-13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 335 22 90, www.sokoshotels.com. 255 rooms.
Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden
QD-4, Bataisky per. 3a, MTekhnologichesky institut,
tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70, www.sokoshotels.fi. 348 rooms.

3 Stars
AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg
QC-4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 740 26 40, www.azimuthotels.com. 1037 rooms.
Herzen House
QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 25, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 315 55 50, www.herzen-hotel.ru. 29 rooms.
IBIS St. Petersburg Centre
QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 54, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
622 01 00, www.ibishotel.com/6157. 221 rooms.

YOUR REFRESHING STAY


IN ST.PETERSBURG
Perfect hotel
for Business & Leisure
Courtyard by Marriott St. Petersburg
Center West Pushkin Hotel
33 Kanonerskaya street
190121 St. Petersburg, Russia
P: +7 812 610 50 00, F: +7 812 610 50 01

Book online on our website


www.courtyardstpetersburgpushkin.com

www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

December 2014 - January 2015

55

Where to stay
Ask the Concierge

Please tell us something about yourself. My name is


Irada Agalarova and I have been Chief Concierge at the
Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 for almost exactly a year now.
I actually graduated with a degree in chemical engineering, but ever since I was a little girl I have had a passion
for St. Petersburgs luxurious hotels, so ten years ago I decided to follow my dreams and got a summer job in a hotel
restaurant. I fell in love with hospitality on the spot, and I
havent looked back since. The Kempinski is my third and
my favourite hotel but I will always remember my first one.
Can you tell us something about the Kempinski?
What makes it special, and what do you like best
about your work here? The Kempinski Hotel Moika 22
was founded eight years ago in the very heart of St. Petersburg, right on the Moika and opposite the renowned

56 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Hermitage Museum and Palace Square, with the first


rooftop restaurant with gorgeous views of the historical
city. But the best thing about my hotel is the people who
do their work with such passion and attention to detail the details that make all the difference. From December
1st to 7th January we will have our first ever Christmas
market, so everyone will have the opportunity to buy
wonderful, sweet gifts for Christmas and New Year.
What can you tell us about your favourite places
in St. Petersburg? St. Petersburg changes every year,
many new restaurants open, new exhibitions welcome
new guests, but the State Hermitage museum has to be
my favourite place in the whole city. You can spend half
the day there not even noticing the time pass, at least
not until you look through the window and realise its
getting dark!
What hidden gem in St. Petersburg can you recommend to our readers? What would you say is a mustvisit here during wintertime? Winter in St. Petersburg
has a unique atmosphere with decorations all over Nevsky Prospect, you get a real sense of upcoming Christmas
and New Year everywhere. But winter in St. Petersburg is
simply not winter if you dont go to see The Nutcracker,
and this year you can choose between the classical version of the ballet at the Mariinsky Theatre, and Nacho Duatos contemporary version at the Mikhailovsky Theatre.

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Shopping
Gifts and Souvenirs
Chocolate Museum
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 17, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
315 13 48, www.muzeyshokolada.ru. Open 11:00 21:00. A
Gallery Mikhailov
QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 10, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 571 06 69, www.vmikhailov.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A
La Petite Opera Gallery
QD-3, Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 65 89, www.lacquerbox.
net. Open 09:00 - 21:00.
Lomonosov Porcelain Factory
QPr. Obukhovskoy Oborony 151, MLomonosovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 326 17 44, www.ipm.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. A
Nevsky Souvenir Shop
QD-2, Nevsky pr. 22-24 (entrance at Bol. Konyushennaya
ul. 12), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 954 78 53, www.
nevskysouvenir.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A
Pavloposadskie Platki Shop
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 87/2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 963
329 12 63, www.platki.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. A
Souvenirs Fair
QD-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 1, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7)
812 962 26 13. Open 09:00 - 18:00. A

Galeria
The largest shopping mall in the centre of the city and
a stones throw away from the Moscow Railway Station,
Galeria cannot be missed. The huge and beautiful building fits remarkably well here. Inside, its everything you
would expect from your modern shopping mall and
more. It boasts the largest selection of brands in St.
Petersburg, from high street brands like Topshop, Levis,
Mexx and French Connection to more local Russian designer brands as well. It also features a huge supermarket, food court, movie theatre, bowling alley and some
very good restaurants. When with children, head to
the top floor where there is a huge entertainment area
for the young and young-at-heart.QE-3, Ligovsky pr.
30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31 72, www.
galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. ALK

Bookshops
Bukvoed
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 46, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 601 06
01, www.bookvoed.ru. Open 24hrs. AKW
Dom Knigy
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 28, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 448 23
55, www.spbdk.ru. Open 09:00 - 24:00. AK

DLT Department store

Shopping centres
Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 35, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 54
08, www.bgd.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK
DLT Department store
QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiral
teiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. Open
10:00 - 22:00. AKW
GALERIA QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel.
(+7) 812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 23:00. ALK
Nevsky Centre
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
AKW
Passage
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52
57, www.passage.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00
- 21:00. AK
Eliseevsky Store
QE-3, Nevsky pr. 56, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 456 66
66, www.kupetzeliseevs.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

Built in 1909 the building's faade mixes modernist


and art nouveau influences, popular at the turn of
century. Inside, however, the influences are much
more cutting-edge. Five floors of designer shopping promise shoppers a world of luxury goodies
from the likes of YSL, Chanel, Versace, Alexander
Wang, Gucci, Marc Jacobs and many more. On the
top floor there is a restaurant for fashionistas who
need to take a break and for the discerning VIP
shopper personal stylist services are also available.
QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru.
Open 10:00 - 22:00. AKW
December 2014 - January 2015

57

Shopping

Winter Souvenirs
For many of us, part of travelling to a foreign country,
whether for business or pleasure, is finding and selecting
something special to bring back home. Luckily, St. Petersburg shops and markets are chock full of beautiful and
interesting gifts and souvenirs. You are sure to find something that suits everyone on your list, from close family and
friends to colleagues and clients. And were not just talking
about your average brightly-painted, glitter-splashed matrioshka dolls and kitschy Lenin badges, though those are
certaintly available in abundance. If you are looking to take
some extra special and quintessentially Russian gifts home
with you this winter, we recommend you consider purchasing some of the following:
Platok
A platok or traditional Russian scarf is both a practical and
beautiful present for any female friend or relative. These
patterned, fringed scarves come in many colors and can be
worn in several ways to add a splash of Russian charm to a
winter outfit. Russian women of all ages wear the scarves
around the neck, over the shoulders, often as an outer layer
over a coat, or around the head, for an adorable babushka
look. Another great gift idea is an orenburgsky platok, which
is an over-size scarf/shawl spun from mohair yarn. These exquisitely patterned scarves come in multiple shades of gray
and brown and are both extremely beautiful and extremely
warm. The authentic, hand-spun ones are so delicate and
silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled through a wedding ring. The scarves can be worn however desired, as
a scarf or headcover or, for extra-warmth, wrapped crisscross around the chest and shoulders and worn under a
coat.

58 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

Shapka ushanka
If you want to look as much like a tourist as possible during your time in Russia, but cool beyond belief back home,
then of course youll need to get a Russian fur hat with ear
flaps, called a shapka-ushanka. Anything with red stars on
it automatically earns you double spot-the-tourist points.
Most of the things you can get in markets are made from
fake fur, but, if youre willing to make an investment, real fur
hats (which are exceedingly warm) can also be found in fur
shops all over the city.
Valenki
Valenki are a unique piece of Russian footware, specially
designed for walking in deep snow. Traditional valenki are
very thick felt boot liners, usually without soles. If you want
to wear them about town you will need to buy some rubber galoshes to cover the bottoms and ensure that they
dont get damaged. Made from sheeps wool, valenki are
said to be so warm and well insulated that you can wear
them without socks. In fact wearing them without socks
is preferred, since the rough wool is said to exfoliate your
skin as you walk.

Anything pickled
Russians, and especially Russian babushki, are the masters of canning and pickling. An authentic Russian spread
almost always includes domashnie soleni or homemade
pickles, usually in the form of assorted pickled cucumbers,
tomatoes, green beans, garlic cloves and beets. Since pickled vegetables are often eaten as a chaser following a shot
of vodka, a jar of delicious homemade pickles makes a great
substitute for caviar and costs a fraction of the price.
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Expat & Lifestyle


Expat Contacts
Dutch Club St. Petersburg
Qwww.nlvpetersburg.com.
English Communication Club
Qtel. (+7) 911 163 56 45, www.encc.ru.
International Womens Club
Qwww.iwcstpete.com. General meetings are held
once a month, in different locations in the city. Additional member based activities, events and groups are
organised daily.
internations
Qwww.internations.org.

Cultural Centres
Danish Cultural Institute
QD-3, Nab. reky Moiky 42, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
571 74 66, www.dki.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
Estonian Cultural Center Jaani Kirik
QC-3, Dekabristov ul. 54A, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812
710 84 46, www.jaanikirik.ru. Open 14:00 - 19:00, Sat
11:00 - 19:00.
Finnish Institute
QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8, 3rd floor, MNevsky
pr., tel. (+7) 812 606 65 65, www.instfin.ru. Open 11:00 17:00, Fri 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Istituto Italiano di Cultura
QC-3, Teatralnaya pl. 10, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812
718 81 89, www.iicsanpietroburgo.esteri.it. Open 09:00
- 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
The Netherlands Institute
QE-2, Kaluzhsky per. 3, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7)
812 327 08 87, www.nispb.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.

Religious Services

HEALTH AND beauty


Royal Thai
Royal Thai is perfectly located as a relaxing retreat right
in the city centre. Soothing dark woods, calming Buddha statues and dim lighting greet you as you enter and
set the tone for a calming and rejuvenating experience.
Treatments from expert Thai masseurs are available
from 30 - 120 minutes and can also include facials and
scrubs and foot massages, and as well as an assortiment of traditional Thai treatments like herbal and aroma therapy massages to choose from. The focus here is
on mind, body and spirit. After one session here youll
feel at one with yourself and perhaps even the universe.
Royal Thai has numerous other locations including one
on the 6th floor of the Nevsky Centre at Nevsky pr. 114116 (tel. (+7) 812 676 51 29). Gift certificates available.
QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 1, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 315 54 06, www.royalthai.ru. Open 10:00 22:00. A

Catholic Church of St. Catherine


QD-3, Nevsky pr. 32-34, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 571
57 95, www.catherine.spb.ru. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Evangelical Lutheran Church of St.
Katarina (Swedish church)
QD-2, Mal. Konyushennaya ul. 1/3, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 571 20 81, www.swedenabroad.com/ru-RU/
Embassies/Saint-Petersburg/.
Evangelical Lutheran Parish of St. Maria Church
QD-2, Bol. Konyushennaya ul. 8A, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7) 812 314 71 61, www.elci.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Grand Choral Synagogue
of St. Petersburg
QC-3, Lermontovsky pr. 2, MSennaya pl., tel. (+7) 812
713 81 86, www.jewsp.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00 Open for
visitors 09:00 - 18:00. Daily services 09:00, 21:00.
Lutheran Church of Peter and Paul
QD-3, Nevsky pr. 22/24, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 312
07 98, www.petrikirche.ru. Open Tue - Fri 10:00 - 18:00.

THANN Sanctuary Spa


Founded in 2002 in Thailand, and now operating in over
25 countries worldwide, THANN Natural Beauty produces
a range of unique skincare products using natural ingredients, formulated from botanicals derived combining
the art of natural therapy with modern dermatological
science. The core ingredient in THANNs wide range of
products is the Vitamin E-rich extracts of rice bran oil. The
THANN Sanctuary Spa, opened in St. Petersburg in 2010,
encapsulates the companys holistic approach, helping
you to re-discover your inner physical and mental wellness. The warm grey colour scheme, soothing light and
specially designed furniture aim to induce calm and
tranquility in contract to the hectic city outside. A highlight among the wide range of treatments is the THANN
Sanctuary Signature Massage - a deep tissue oil massage,
using palm strokes and thumb pressure to relieve and
heal muscular pains. QE-3, Nevsky Centre, Nevsky pr.
114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 449 08 36, www.
thann-spa.ru. A

www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

December 2014 - January 2015

59

Expat & Lifestyle


The Expat Experience
Pia Viitkikko originally hails
from Helsinki, and throughout
her varied career has worked
in such fields as construction,
real estate, fashion and modelling. In December 2010 she
added the spa and wellness
industry to her cv by launching the THANN brand in Russia. THANNs flagship spa and
retail store is located in St. Petersburgs Nevsky Centre.
What makes St. Petersburg special for you? Can
you compare it with other big cities youve been to/
worked in? I have been traveling between Helsinki and
St. Petersburg since 1995 and have had the opportunity
to follow closely how this city has changed and developed
over the last two decades. I really cant compare St. Petersburg to anywhere else, it is in a league of its own. There
is something for everyone here: museums, churches, art
galleries, restaurants, parks you name it! There are simply endless possibilities to spend your free time, to get
to know the city and to study its history. For us Finns, St.
Petersburg is our nextdoor neighbour: a metropolis with
almost as many inhabitants as the whole of Finland right
on our doorstep. For example, the Allegro train, which is a
Finnish-Russian joint project, whisks you from the centre
of Helsinki to the centre of St. Petersburg just in 3,5 hours.
Why THANN, and why St. Petersburg? In St. Petersburg, both visitors and locals appreciate the finer things
in life! THANN is a world-renowned spa based on the
holistic concept of lifestyle and aromatherapy, and was
recently voted one of the top 55 spas in the world by
Cond Nast. We operate in 25 countries across Europe,
Asia and the USA, offering natural hair and skincare products formulated from botanicals that the art of natural
therapy with modern science.
What are your plans for the future? My future plans
are focused principally on my business. Our target is to
have a THANN spa and retails store in all Russian cities
with over a million inhabitants, with a distribution network through existing chains of cosmetic product shops,
together with partners and franchisees, and also to develop our new project - hotel amenities.
How do you spend your free time in St. Petersburg?
What are your favourite spots in the city to visit at
the weekend? My family lives in Finland, so I spent most
of my weekends there, but when I stay here I love to go to
the ballet and to listen to live music, especially jazz. I also
enjoy going out to eat with friends, exploring the wide
range of different restaurants that St. Petersburg has to
offer. And when it comes to my health and wellbeing, of
course I pamper myself with a relaxing THANN treatment!
60 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

LEARN russian at the


liden & denz
Dictionary for expats: No pain, no gain
If a Russian tells you: Bez truda ne vytashchish i rybku
iz pruda, you could be forgiven for not understanding the expression whatsoever. The literal translation
for this phrase is Without effort, you cannot even pull
a fish out of a pond, and it was coined by fishermen
who used the expression to explain their large catch to
passers-by. It is difficult to find concrete meaning behind these words, but the phrase indicates that nothing
can be achieved without a lot of effort and attention to
detail. When translated idiomatically, the phrase simply
means no sweet without sweat.

Liden & Denz opened in 1992 and is one of St. Petersburgs oldest language schools. They have expanded
into a large centre not far from Gostiny Dvor. Russian
is taught mainly in groups of up to 10 people, though
individual lessons are also available. Classrooms are
bright and equipped with televisions and DVD players. There are computers with internet access for
student use, plus wi-fi if you want to bring your own
laptop.QE-3, Inzhenernaya ul. 6, MNevsky pr., tel.
(+7)812 334 07 88, www.lidenz.ru. Open 09:00 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Derzhavin Institute
The Derzhavin institute is a great place to throw yourself into the romance of Russian culture. Situated in one
wing of the refurbished 18th Century Derzhavin mansion, the school has a beautiful setting. There are seven
classrooms, all with high-ceilings and large windows.
Theres also a library, common rooms and computers with free internet access for students. Short-term,
long-term, intensive and private lessons are available at
all levels of proficiency. They also offer special courses
for expats. Classes are kept small, with a maximum of
8 students per group. The staff speak many different
languages and have experience in teaching at both
Russian universities and abroad. They can also organise
accommodation, excursions and other social activities
for students.QD-4, Nab. reky Fontanky 118, 3rd floor,
MTekhnologichesky institut, tel. (+7) 812 740 19
26, www.derzhavin.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00, classes
till 21:45. Closed Sat., Sun.

If you would like your expat or business


group to be featured here, just drop us a line
at research.spb@inyourpocket.com
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Metro map

Advertise on this map!


Call:
(+7) 812 448 88 65
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

December 2014 - January 2015

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OB

Aleksander
Nevsky Monastery
39
Founded by Peter the Great in 1710, this orthodox monastery is the most important in St. Petersburg. The St.
Trinity cathedral and the cemetery are both worth a visit.

N
YA

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.

49

Find our review on page 59


.

ALEXANDRA
NEVSKOGO
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27
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PL.

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59

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FURSHTATSKAYA UL.

12

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50

ZAKHARYEVSKAYA UL.

25

21

L.
VAYA U
MOKHO

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SOLY

IV
NKA R

AN

YA UL.
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GAGAR

FONTA

K
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YAZ
LEB

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SAD

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1

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D

KON
D

2
12

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OL

SHOS

SKY PR.

UL.

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SM

YA
NA

B
NA

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KAY
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L.

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RAT Y

NEVA
GARDEN
RE VOLYUT
SII

60

AYA NAB.

L
YA U
VSK A

12

GRIBOEDOVA KAN. NAB.

O
KOMS

UL.

11

YA UL.
POLSKA
STAVRO

LITEINY PR

KU

NAB
OVA
TUZ 4

NE
VA
RIV
SM
ER
OL
NA
YA
O RLO

ARSENALN

MOLA

34

B.

BOL SHEOHTIN

KOMSO

UL .
MOL A

LITEINY
MOST

TROITSKY
MOST

SKAYA NA

50

PL. LENINA

L.
AU
AY

YA
SK A

.
NAB

24

SVERDLOV

LN

SKAY
A UL
.
3
PIRO
GOV
SKAY
A NA 1
B.

CRUISER AVRORA

16

14

NA
SE

KLIN
ICHE

AU
L.

L.

TIN

AR

AKADEM
IKA LE
1
BEDEV
A UL.

U
VA

B OT K
SAMPSONIEVSKY
INSK
1
MOST
AYA
UL .
FINLYANDSKY PR.
.
UL

Y
YB
KU
AY
AU
L.

ROV
PET

VA
TU

13

AE
AP

A
EV
SH

E V SK

VA UL .

PR.

R.
YP
NO

SK Y

SMIRNO

OVSKY PR

LES

IEV
S ON

B.

N A B.
KAYA 22

R
RIVE

CH
6

VK A

.
8

A NA
SKAY

A NE

R A DS
TROG

13

Street register
1-28-ya liniya

B-2,3/C-2,3 Konnogvardeysky bul.

C-3

Rubinshteina ul.

E-3

Admiralteisky pr.

D-3

E-2

Ryleeva ul.

E-2

Kovensky per.

Alexandra Nevskogo most

F-3

Krasnogo Tekstilshchika ul.

F-2

Sadovaya ul.

E-2,3

Angliskaya nab.

C-3

Kronverkskaya nab.

D-2

Sampsonievsky most

D-1
E-2

Anichkov most

E-3

Kronversky pr.

D-1

Sapyorny per.

Arsenalnaya nab.

E-2

Kutuzova nab.

D-2/E-2

Shpalernaya ul.

E-2/F-2

Bakunina pr.

F-3

Lermontovsky pr.

C-3/C-4

Shvedsky per.

D-2

Baskov per.

E-2

Letny sad

D-2

Sinopskaya nab.

F-3

Belinskogo ul.

E-2

Leitenanta Shmidta nab.

C-3

Smolnaya nab.

F-2

Birzhevaya liniya

C-2

Ligovsky pr.

E-3/E-4

Solyanoy per.

E-2

Blagoveshchensky most

C-2

Liteiny most

E-2

Sotsialisticheskaya ul.

E-3

Blokhina ul.

C-2

Liteiny pr.

E-2/E-3

Sovetskaya 1-ya - 9-ya ul.

E-3/F-2,3

Bol. Konyushennaya ul.

D-2

Lomonosova ul.

D-3/E-3

Spassky per.

D-3
B-2,3/C-2

Bol. Morskaya ul.

C-3/D-3

Makarova nab.

C-2

Sredniy pr. (V0)

Bol. Podyacheskaya ul.

D-3

Mal. Konyushennaya ul.

D-2

Starorusskaya ul.

F-3

Bolsheokhtinsky most

F-2

Mal. Morskaya ul.

D-3

Stolyarny per.

D-3

Bolshoy pr. (PS)

C-1,2

Mal. Posadskaya

D-1

Stremyannaya ul.

E-3

Bolshoy pr. (VO)

B-3/C-2

Mal. Sadovaya

E-3

Suvorovsky pr.

F-2,3

Chernyshevskogo pr.

E-2

Maly pr. (PS)

C-1

Sverdlovskaya nab.

F-1,2

Chkalovsky pr.

C-1

Maly pr. (VO)

B-1

Tavricheskaya ul.

F-2
E-2

Degtyarnaya ul.

F-3

Manezhnaya pl.

E-3

Chaikovskogo ul.

Dekabristov ul.

C-3/D-3

Marata ul.

E-3

Teatralnaya pl.

C-3

Dostoevskogo ul.

E-3

Marsovo pole

D-2

Troitsky most

D-2

Dumskaya ul.

D-3

Mayakovskogo ul.

E-2/E-3

Tuchkov most

C-2

Dvortsovaya nab.

D-2

Mendeleevskaya liniya

C-2

Tverskaya ul.

F-2

Efimova ul.

D-3

Mikhailovskaya ul.

D-3

Universitetskaya nab.

C-2,3

Furshtatskaya ul.

E-2

Millionnaya ul.

D-2

Vladimirsky pr.

E-3

Galernaya ul.

C-3

Moskovsky pr.

D-3/D-4

Vosstaniya ul.

E-2,3

Glinki ul.

C-3

Moiky reky nab.

C-3/D-2,3

Vosstaniya pl.

E-3
D-3

Goncharnaya ul.

E-3

Muchnoy per.

D-3

Voznesensky pr.

Gorokhovaya ul.

D-3

Mytninskaya nab.

-2/D-2

Zagorodny pr.

D-3,4/E-3

Grafsky per.

E-3

Nekrasova ul.

E-2

Zhukovskogo ul.

E-3

Griboedova kan. nab.

C-3,4/D-2,3 Nevsky pr.

D-3/E-3/F-3

Grivtsova per.

D-3

Ostrovskogo pl.

E-3

Inzhenernaya ul.

E-3

Pestelya ul.

E-2

Abbreviations

Isaakievskaya pl.

D-3

Petrovskaya nab.

D-2

Ul. Ulitsa

Iskusstv pl.

D-3

Pirogovskaya nab.

E-1/E-2

Pr. Prospekt

Italyanskaya ul.

D-3/D-4

Pochtamtskaya ul.

C-3

Pl. Ploshchad

Kadetskaya liniya

C-2

Poltavskaya ul.

F-3

Bul. Bulvar

Kamennoostrovsky pr.

D-1

Pushkinskaya ul.

E-3

Per. Pereulok

Karavannaya ul.

E-3

Radishcheva ul.

E-2/E-3

Kan. Kanal

Kazanskaya ul.

D-3

Razyezzhaya ul.

E-3

Nab. Naberezhnaya

Kirochnaya ul.

E-2/F-2

Rimskogo-Korsakova ul.

C-3,4/D-3

Bol. Bolshaya

Kolokolnaya ul.

E-3

Robespyera nab.

E-2

Mal. Malaya

64 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

Moscow

Fast-paced Moskva is Russias political, historical and business


capital and a magnet for the adventurous and ambitious
from across the country and further afield. In all senses, this
mega city of more than 12 million inhabitants is a meltingpot and its outstanding dining scene and vibrant nightlife
reflect its cosmopolitan population. A city of contrasts, Moscows busy streets all bear witness to Russias turbulent history and dynamic future and while its not for the faint-hearted,
the Russian capital is a cultural experience not to be missed.

Churches
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour
QUl. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495
637 28 47, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mon 13:00
- 18:00. Admission free. Guided tours in English for
groups for up to 10 people 6,000Rbl (pre-booking required call (+7) 495 637 28 47).
Novodevichy Monastery
QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499
246 85 26. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 250Rbl.
Pokrovsky Monastery
QUl. Taganskaya 58, MMarksistskaya, tel. (+7) 495 911
49 20, www.pokrov-monastir.ru. Open 07:00 - 20:00.
Admission free.

Museums
All-Russian Decorative Art Museum
QDelegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495
609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu
10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 20 - 200Rbl.
GULAG History Museum
QUl. Petrovka 16, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495
621 73 46, www.gmig.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu
11:00 - 20:00 Closed Mon, last Fri of the month. Admission 150Rbl.
State Central Museum of Contemporary
Russian History
QTverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 67 24,
www.sovr.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 21.00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70 - 250Rbl.
www.facebook.com/StPetersburgInYourPocket

getting there
Dozens of different night trains run to Moscow every day
from Moskovsky vokzal, so theres little excuse for not
making the effort to visit. If you have less time you can
also take advantage of the new super fast Sapsan train,
which leaves St. Petersburg six times a day and gets you
there in just under four hours. Local airlines also fly to
Moscow and the journey takes about one hour. Once at
one of Moscows three airports, hop on the aeroexpress
train which brings you right to the centre.

Luxury Trains to
Moscow
If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the
capital it is worth considering taking a private train.
The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for Moscow every
night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience.
After being shown to your cabin you will find your
beds have already been made up with real duvets
rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are
spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to
your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can
call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed
and they will come to you! If you want to wake up
in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, its worth the
money.QTrains leave Moskovsky vokzal (M Pl. Vosstaniya) at 00:26 and arrive in Moscow at 09:00. For
reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at
www.megapolis-te.ru

December 2014 - January 2015

65

Moscow
The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts
QUl. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7)
495 609 95 20, www.artsmuseum.ru. Open 10:00
- 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission
300 - 400Rbl. Admission may vary according to the
exhibition.
Tretyakov Gallery
QLavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00
- 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission
100 - 360Rbl. English audio guide 250Rbl.

Aeroexpress Trains
The most reliable way of travelling to and from airports in Moscow is by Aeroexpress. Aeroexpress trains
run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo (SVO) airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnukovo (VKO) airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and
Domodedovo (DME) airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35 45 minutes
to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow.
Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress
ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel
agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow,
or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of
sales outlets can be found on the companys website,
where you can also buy an electronic ticket: www.
aeroexpress.ru.
Download their free mobile app and you will be able to
purchase Aeroexpress tickets using your smartphone
with no need to print out the ticket: the turnstiles at
the airport are able to read the tickets QR-code directly
from your smartphone/tablet screen.
If you are a Master Card PayPass or VISA PayWave holder, you can easily pay for the
fare directly at the turnstiles
Aeroexpress.
The Aeroexpress hotline is
(+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls
from within Russia are free).

66 St. Petersburg In Your Pocket

hotels
Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow
QD-3, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7)
495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/en/moscow. 227
rooms (Room prices start at 12,000Rbl).
Lotte Hotel Moscow
QNovinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7)
495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. hhhhh
Sheraton Moscow Sheremetyevo
Airport Hotel
QMezhdunarodnoye shosse 28B, bldg. 5,
MPlanernaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 00 10, www.
sheratonmoscowairport.com. hhhhh
Marriott Moscow Grand Hotel
QB-1, Tverskaya ul. 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 937 00 00, www.marriott.com/mowgr. 386 rooms
(Room prices start at 8,000Rbl).
Marriott Moscow Royal Aurora
QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7)
495 937 10 00, www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora.ru.
231 rooms (Room prices start at 9,500Rbl).
AZIMUT Moscow Olympic Hotel
QOlimpiysky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495
931 90 00, www.azimuthotels.com. 486 rooms (5500
Room prices start ).
Adagio Moscow Paveletskaya
QUl. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495
720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. hhhh
Marriott Moscow Tverskaya
QB-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriott.com/mowtv.
162 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl).
Best Western Vega Hotel & Convention
Center
QIzmailovskoe shosse 71, bldg. 3V, MPartizanskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 956 05 06, www.hotel-vega.ru. hhh
Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya
QUl. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720
53 01, www.mercure.com. hhhh
Ibis Moscow Centre Bakhrushina
QUl. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720
53 01, www.accorhotels.com. hhh
Ivan Hostel
QPetrovsky per. 1/30, app. 23, MChekhovskaya, tel.
(+7) 916 407 11 78, www.ivanhostel.com
st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com

NEW YEAR'S EVE PARTY 2015


AT HOTEL ASTORIA
"SNOW KINGDOM"
For advance bookings, please contact Elizaveta Smirnova at:
+7 812 494 57 57 | www.roccofortehotels.com

facebook.com/RFHotelAstoria

vk.com/astoria_hotel

@astoriahotel

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