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than before. Sometimes its a battle, a game of wits, with you pitted against a mechanism that you so bravely took apart with the
intentions of creating something more wonderful and awe inspiring.
Sometimes it can be an emotional rollercoaster, especially if you are
somewhat attached to the pedals that you are modifying. Its very
frustrating to be pumped up to play through your newly modded
pedal and have it not work. Thats why its so crucial to follow all
of the instructions outlined in this article. No one wants to break
a perfectly good pedal while trying to improve it. Fortunately, if
you follow the instructions outlined here, youll have an awesomesounding pedal for you and the rest of the world to enjoy for the
rest of your musical daysand that is where the fun lies.
Okay, lets get started!
PREMIER GUITAR OCTOBER 2012 77
The STageS
There are generally five stages to pedal modding, depending on how successful you are with replacing and/or adding parts the first time around.
Read them carefully and remember to flip back and reference them at
any point during the mod process to make sure youre on the right track.
One very important warning before moving on to the stages:
Avoid the temptation to try to work on two mods simultaneously. For
example, dont try to do the true-bypass mod while doing the variable
mid-control mod. Working on different mods simultaneously usually
makes the troubleshooting process a nightmare. Complete one modification starting at stage 1 and going through stage 5. Once that mod is
finished, start over at stage 1 with the next mod.
StAGe 1: Assess mod Difficulty
This first stage is important because its when you decide whether
to attempt a specific modification. The steps include:
1. Read all of the instructions.
2. Make a supply list (if one is not provided).
3. Determine the overall difficulty of the modification.
4. Decide whether or not you can pull off the mod without
adversely affecting your pedal.
This last step is very important. If you dont feel comfortable with the
mod, dont do it! Start with something easier and work your way up
to build confidence and skill. Some of the modifications were talking about here are pretty tricky, and they will be much more difficult
(though not impossible) for beginners. Note: Neither I nor anyone
at my company, Wampler Pedals, can provide technical support for these
modifications or assume responsibility for pedals damaged while performing these mods. If these modifications are too difficult for you, we may be
able to perform them on your pedal, depending on our workload at the
time. Visit wamplerpedals.com and click the Contact link for more details.
StAGe 2: prep for the mod
If, in stage 1, you decided the mod isnt a good idea at the moment,
this stage includes boxing up your pedal and sending it in to us. If
you are doing the mod, the steps include:
1. Turn on your soldering iron. I do this first so that it will be up
to temperature by the time I am done with the rest of the steps.
2. Gather parts, wire, and tools as described in your supply list.
3. If you use a sponge to clean your irons tip, wet it now.
4. Take a deep breath.
StAGe 3: mod time!
This is the stage where it all happens. The steps include:
1. Remove the pedals back panel and take pictures of how the
circuit board and other internal parts are oriented before making any changes.
2. Take the circuit board out of the pedals enclosure.
Note: Some circuit boardsincluding those in Boss and Ibanez
unitscannot be removed all the way due to the way they are wired.
In those cases, you can make it easier to move the circuit board
around while its still attached to the case by loosening the potentiometers and/or the 1/4" jacksbut be careful not to break the wires.
We knew we must go well beyond what has been done in the past.
We spent months locked up in the Strymon sound design labs with
an intense focus on dreaming up the most spacious, lush, creative,
tweakable, and musically inspirational delay effects ever heard.
TimeLine. Its not a delay pedal. Its an inspiration machine.
strymon.net/timeline
Mod 1:
photo 1. Components and wire leads to be removed from the main TS9
circuit board.
photo 2. Replace the original short jumper wire with a longer one extending to the hole where the bottom leg of a 510k resistor used to be.
photo 3. Prop the new 3PDT footswitch in the newly drilled hole for
convenience while soldering jumper
wires and other leads.
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Mod 2:
series-wired diodes
in parallel with one
diode oriented in
the opposite direction (as shown in the
mod instructions).
You can also achieve
asymmetrical clipping by removing an
original diode and
replacing it with an
Fig. 2: Asymmetrical clipping. A stock Boss
SD-1 schematic (left), and an SD-1 schematic
LED, which tends
with an LED swapped out in place of the original
to yield more headclipping diode to yield a louder, warmer, more
room and volume.
responsive feel (right).
To get more
headroom out of a symmetrical
When replacing diodes,
clipping circuitthe type of
make sure you orient them corclipping achieved in an Ibanez
rectly. The stripe on the diode
TS9 circuit (see Fig. 3)you
always goes on the same side as
can add an extra set of diodes in
the bar at the tip of the triangle
series with the original diodes,
on the diode symbol thats
or you can change both diodes
stenciled on the circuit board.
out for LEDs (as shown in the
For LEDs, the short leg goes
diagrams). However, keep in
towards the bar.
mind that this will change how
Now that you know more than
much clipping you hear.
you probably ever wanted to know
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to view the photos and other visual elements for this mod, visit premierguitar.com/oct2012
Mod 3:
Tweak Feedback in
Your SD-1 or TS9
table 1. Suggested capacitor-and-resistor combinations to try in your SD1s or TS9s feedback to ground. (Numbers in parentheses represent what
will be written on your capacitors. Resistor color codes vary, depending on
whether they use 3- or 4-color coding bands. Visit Wikipedias Electronic
color code page for details.)
photo 11. Replacing your Super Overdrives R5 resistor with a 10k part
will enable you to clean up the signal more. Also, swapping the C3 and R6
components with different values will vary the available gain and which
frequencies get amplified and clipped by the op-amp.
again. See the lone circled resistor in each schematic (R5 in the
SD-1 circuit, and R7 in the TS9
diagram)? This resistor sets the
minimum gain when the drive
Fig. 4: SD-1 Gain Stage. (LeFt) You can achieve myriad tones with a Boss SD-1 by varying the values of the resistor
and capacitor shown inside the large oval. Fig. 5: tS9 Gain Stage. (riGht) Altering the values of the resistor and
capacitor shown here inside the large oval can yield a wide variety of tones with a Tube Screamer.
to view the photos and other visual elements for this mod, visit premierguitar.com/oct2012
84 PREMIER GUITAR OCTOBER 2012
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Mod 4:
photo 13. Remove the indicated wires and components in your TS9.
photo 14. Remove the indicated wires and components in your SD-1.
photo 15. Connect a 3" wire from the new tone pot to hole 7 on your TS9s circuit board.
to view the photos and other visual elements for this mod, visit premierguitar.com/oct2012
WWW.ROCKETTPEDALS.COM
ALLAN
HOLDSW RTH
Signature Series
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Mod 5:
Fig. 7. Reference schematic for the TS9 and SD-1 variable-mid-control mod.
to view the photos and other visual elements for this mod, visit premierguitar.com/oct2012
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