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Manual Transaxle

Manual Transaxle

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Chonan Technical Service Training Center

Chonan Technical Service Training Center

Manual Transaxle

Contents

1. Introduction
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Manual Transaxle
1.1 Manual Transaxle Basic
Cars need transmissions because of the physics of the gasoline engine. First, any engine has a
redline -- a maximum rpm value above which the engine cannot go without exploding. Second, you
know that engines have narrow rpm ranges where horsepower and torque are at their maximum. For
example, an engine might produce its maximum horsepower at 5,500 rpm. The transmission allows
the gear ratio between the engine and the drive wheels to change as the car speeds up and slows
down. You shift gears so the engine can stay below the redline and near the rpm band of its best
performance. Ideally, the transmission would be so flexible in its ratios that the engine could always
run at its single, best-performance rpm value. That is the idea behind the continuously variable
transmission (CVT). A CVT has a nearly infinite range of gear ratios. In the past, CVTs could not
compete with four-speed and five-speed transmissions in terms of cost, size and reliability, so you
didn't see them in production automobiles. These days, improvements in design have made CVTs
more common.

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The transmission is connected to the engine through the clutch. The input shaft of the transmission
therefore turns at the same rpm as the engine. A five-speed transmission applies one of five different
gear ratios to the input shaft to produce a different rpm value at the output shaft.
To understand the basic idea behind a standard transmission, the diagram below shows a very simple
two-speed transmission in neutral:

Let's look at each of the parts in this diagram to understand how they fit together:

The green shaft comes from the engine through the clutch. The green shaft and green gear
are connected as a single unit. (The clutch is a device that lets you connect and disconnect
the engine and the transmission. When you push in the clutch pedal, the engine and the
transmission are disconnected so the engine can run even if the car is standing still. When you
release the clutch pedal, the engine and the green shaft are directly connected to one another.
The green shaft and gear turn at the same rpm as the engine.)

The red shaft and gears are called the layshaft. These are also connected as a single piece,
so all of the gears on the layshaft and the layshaft itself spin as one unit. The green shaft and
the red shaft are directly connected through their meshed gears so that if the green shaft is
spinning, so is the red shaft. In this way, the layshaft receives its power directly from the
engine whenever the clutch is engaged.
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The yellow shaft is a splined shaft that connects directly to the drive shaft through the
differential to the drive wheels of the car. If the wheels are spinning, the yellow shaft is
spinning.

The blue gears ride on bearings, so they spin on the yellow shaft. If the engine is off but the
car is coasting, the yellow shaft can turn inside the blue gears while the blue gears and the
layshaft are motionless.

The purpose of the collar is to connect one of the two blue gears to the yellow drive shaft. The
collar is connected, through the splines, directly to the yellow shaft and spins with the yellow
shaft. However, the collar can slide left or right along the yellow shaft to engage either of the
blue gears. Teeth on the collar, called dogteeth, fit into holes on the sides of the blue gears to
engage them.

The picture below shows how, when shifted into first gear, the collar engages the blue gear on the
right:

In this picture, the green shaft from the engine turns the layshaft, which turns the blue gear on the
right. This gear transmits its energy through the collar to drive the yellow drive shaft. Meantime, the
blue gear on the left is turning, but it is freewheeling on its bearing so it has no effect on the yellow
shaft. When the collar is between the two gears (as shown in the first figure), the transmission is in
neutral. Both of the blue gears freewheel on the yellow shaft at the different rates controlled by their
ratios to the layshaft.
From this discussion, you can answer several questions:

When you make a mistake while shifting and hear a horrible grinding sound, you are not
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hearing the sound of gear teeth mis-meshing. As you can see in these diagrams, all gear teeth
are all fully meshed at all times. The grinding is the sound of the dogteeth trying
unsuccessfully to engage the holes in the side of a blue gear.

The transmission shown here does not have "synchros" (discussed later in the article), so if
you were using this transmission you would have to double-clutch it. Double clutching was
common in older cars and is still common in some modern racecars. In double clutching, you
first push the clutch pedal in once to disengage the engine from the transmission. This takes
the pressure off the dogteeth so you can move the collar into neutral. Then you release the
clutch pedal and rev the engine to the "right speed." The right speed is the rpm value at which
the engine should be running in the next gear. The idea is to get the blue gear of the next gear
and the collar rotating at the same speed so that the dogteeth can engage. Then you push the
clutch pedal in again and lock the collar into the new gear. At every gear change you have to
press and release the clutch twice, hence the name "double-clutching."

You can also see how a small linear motion in the gearshift knob allows you to change gears.
The gearshift knob moves a rod connected to the fork. The fork slides the collar on the yellow
shaft to engage one of two gears.

The five-speed manual transmission is fairly standard on cars today. It looks something like this
internally:

There are three forks controlled by three rods that are engaged by the shift lever. Looking at the
shift rods from the top, they look like this in reverse, first and second gear:
Keep in mind that the shift lever has a rotation point in the middle. When you push the knob forward to
engage first gear, you are actually pulling the rod and fork for first gear back.

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You can see that as you move the shifter left and right you are engaging different forks (and therefore
different collars). Moving the knob forward and backward moves the collar to engage one of the
gears.
Lever position

Neutral position

1st Gear

2nd Gear

3rd Gear

4th Gear

5th Gear

Reverse Gear

Reverse gear is handled by a small idler


gear. Therefore, at all times, the blue reverse
gear in this diagram is turning in a direction
opposite to all of the other blue gears. It
would be impossible to throw the transmission
Idler Gear

into reverse while the car is moving forward -the dogteeth would never engage. They will
make a lot of noise, however

6-speed manual transaxle has one more shift fork as follows.

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5-speed M/T (3 shift forks)

6-speed M/T (4 shift forks)

2. Clutch System
2.1 General

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Clutches are useful in devices with two rotating shafts. In these devices, one of the shafts is typically
driven by a motor or pulley, and the other shaft is driving another device. In a drill, for instance, an
engine drives one shaft and the other is driving a drill chuck. The clutch connects the two shafts so
that they can either be locked together and spin at the same speed, or be decoupled and spin at
different speeds. In a car, you need a clutch because the engine spins all the time and the car wheels
don't. In order for a car to stop without killing the engine, the wheels need to be disconnected from the
engine somehow. The clutch allows us to smoothly engage a spinning engine to a non-spinning
transmission by controlling the slippage between them. To understand how a clutch works, it helps to
know a little bit about friction.
The clutch used in manual transaxle vehicles is a friction device for connecting or disconnecting a
driving force from the engine. In automotive applications, the clutch is designed to provide smooth
and positive engagement and releasing of the engine and manual transaxle or manual transmission.
The clutch is needed because an internal combustion engine develops insufficient power or torque at
low engine speed. It must gain speed before it will move the vehicle. At higher speeds, however, a
violent engagement would occur if the rapidly rotating engine were suddenly connected to the
driveline of a stationary vehicle.
Therefore, a gradual application of load and some slowing of engine speed are needed to provide
reasonable and comfortable starts.

In vehicles equipped with a manual transmission or manual

transaxle, this is accomplished by means of a mechanical clutch. Above figure shows the overall
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system of the conventional hydraulic mechanical clutch system for passenger vehicles. Engagement
of the engine and transmission provides the necessary linkup of engine and drive train that permits
power transfer to the driving axles and wheels. Disengagement provides the necessary halt to power
transfer that allows the engine to operate while the transmission does not.

2.2 Components
- Clutch cover and pressure plate

Most vehicles equipped with a manual transmission or manual transaxle use a single plate, dry
clutch disc, a diaphragm type pressure plate and cover assembly, a clutch release bearing, and a
clutch release fork. In its operating position in the engine/transmission or transaxle linkup, the clutch
disc is sandwiched between the engine flywheel and the clutch pressure plate. The pressure plate is
bolted to the engine flywheel, and a strong clamping force is developed between the heavy plate and
cover.
Engagement and disengagement of the clutch assembly is controlled by a foot pedal and linkage
(rods or cable) that must be properly adjusted and relatively easy to apply. The machined surfaces of
the flywheel and pressure plate (against which the clutch facings bear) must be flat, true, and free
from cracks or score marks. The transmission, pressure plate, flywheel housing, clutch disc, flywheel,
and crankshaft must be properly aligned to prevent slippage, vibration, and noise.
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The clutch disc operates in conjunction with a pressure plate, or clutch cover. The pressure plate
assembly usually consists of a heavy plate, a diaphragm spring with release fingers, and a cover.
The pressure plate diaphragm is shaped like a dished plate.
It utilizes over-center action in applying
and releasing pressure on the pressure
plate and clutch disc. The cover serves to
contain the pressure plate assembly.
Most covers are vented to allow heat to
escape and cooling air to enter. Some are
designed to provide a fan action for forced
circulation of air to help cool them. Even
proper use of the clutch generates some
heat because of normal slippage while it is
Pressure plate

being engaged.

When your foot is off the pedal, the springs push the pressure plate against the clutch disc, which in
turn presses against the flywheel. This locks the engine to the transmission input shaft, causing them
to spin at the same speed
The amount of force the clutch can
hold depends on the friction between

Flywheel

Clutch cover

the clutch plate and the flywheel,


and how much force the spring puts
on the pressure plate. The friction

Clutch plate

Diaphragm
spring

force in the clutch works just like the


blocks in the friction section of
brakes,

except

that

the

spring

Bearing

presses on the clutch plate instead


of weight pressing the block into the
ground.

Pressure plate

- Clutch disc
The clutch disc or driven plate consists of a circular metal plate attached to a reinforced splined hub.
Often the hub is mounted on coil springs to provide cushioned engagements. The splined hub is free
to slide lengthwise along the spline of the transmission input shaft. When engaged, the

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clutch disc drives the input shaft through these splines.


The outer half of the clutch disc has a friction material facing on each side. Generally, the facing are
riveted or bonded to the clutch disc. The thickness of the disc assembly must be uniform and its
friction facings must be smooth.
The dust created when servicing clutch
assemblies may contain asbestos fibers.
Breathing this dust may cause serious bodily
harm. Asbestos is a known carcinogen a
substance that tends to cause cancer. When
working on clutches, wear a mask with a
government-approved filter and flush clutch
parts with water or use a vacuum source.

Clutch disc

When the clutch pedal is pressed, a cable or hydraulic piston pushes on the release fork, which
presses the throw-out bearing against the middle of the diaphragm spring. As the middle of the
diaphragm spring is pushed in, a series of pins near the outside of the spring causes the spring to pull
the pressure plate away from the clutch disc. This releases the clutch from the spinning engine
Note the springs in the clutch plate. These springs help to isolate the transmission from the shock of
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the clutch engaging.
The most common problem with clutches is that the friction material on the disc wears out. The
friction material on a clutch disc is very similar to the friction material on the pads of a disc brake, or
the shoes of a drum brake -- after a while, it wears away. When most or all of the friction material is
gone, the clutch will start to slip, and eventually it won't transmit any power from the engine to the
wheels. The clutch only wears while the clutch disc and the flywheel are spinning at different speeds.
When they are locked together, the friction material is held tightly against the flywheel, and they spin
in sync. It is only when the clutch disc is slipping against the flywheel that wearing occurs. So if you
are the type of driver who slips the clutch a lot, you will wear out your clutch a lot faster.
Another problem sometimes associated with clutches is a worn throw out bearing. This problem is
often characterized by a rumbling noise whenever the clutch engages
- Clutch release bearing and fork
The clutch release bearing in most cases is a ball bearing assembly with a machined face on one
side that is designed to contact the pressure plate diaphragm release fingers during disengagement.
The release bearing is mounted on a sleeve that is designed to slide back-and-forth on the
transmission input shaft-bearing retainer whenever the clutch pedal is depressed or released.
The sleeve is grooved or has raised flat surfaces and retaining springs that hold the inner ends of
the clutch fork in place. The fork and connecting linkage provide the means of converting the up-anddown movement of the clutch pedal to the back-and-forth movement of the clutch release bearing
assembly.
Transaxle clutch assemblies generally use a different arrangement of connecting the linkage to the
clutch fork and the fork to the clutch release bearing. In transaxle applications, the release bearing is
constantly engaged with the release fingers of the pressure plate diaphragm. A clutch fork and a
release lever are utilized in conjunction with the clutch cable to depress the pressure plate diaphragm
and release the clutch disc. Also note this setup does not require a pilot bearing.
In most vehicles, a clutch pilot bearing, or pilot bushing, is placed in the back end of the crankshaft
or in the center of the flywheel. This bearing or bushing is used to support the outer end of the
manual transmission input shaft.
There are two types of clutch control system depends on the method of moving the clutch release
bearing in the manual transmission. One is a Push type and the other one is a Pull type.
Push type
The clutch release bearing pushes the
diaphragm spring finger portion of clutch
cover when the clutch is operated (When
the engine torque is not transmitted). This
Clutch release
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type has a low friction loss and worn-out, so
the higher durability and efficiency can be
achieved.
But, this push type has a demerit that higher clutch releasing force (higher clutch pedal effort) is
required in case of worn out clutch disc.
Push type clutch has been widely adopted in the passenger car, but nowadays Pull type is more
rapidly being used because of the demerit of Push type such as a higher clutch pedal effort (in case
of clutch worn our)
But, still this push type is popular in diesel engine vehicle (especially DMF or VGT adopted vehicles
of HMC and KMC) because of higher durability (low worn out).
Pull type
The clutch release bearing pulls the diaphragm
spring finger portion of clutch cover when the
clutch is operated (When the engine torque is
not transmitted).
Increasing the clutch ratio, its possible to Release fork
reduce the releasing force (lower clutch pedal

fitted

effort). Thats why this type is mainly adopted


in the passenger vehicles. But this pull type
has a demerit that the high level of design
technology for release bearing is required and it
is difficult to overhaul the release bearing
assembly from transmission (than push type).

Push type

Pull type

- Clutch linkage
The clutch linkage connects the clutch pedal to the outer end of the clutch fork. Earlier model
vehicles and some current models use a series of rods, shafts, levers, and springs to make up the
linkage arrangement. In most cases, the cable operation is used for clutch linkage system. A typical
pedal rod and cross shaft (torque shaft) clutch control linkage setup incorporates a fork push rod,
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clutch and brake pedal bracket, and an over-center spring.
Basically, depressing the clutch pedal causes the pedal rod to move a lever attached to the cross
shaft. The cross shaft starts to rotate, causing another lever on the shaft to move the fork push rod
and, in turn, the clutch fork and release bearing.
When the clutch pedal reaches the end of its travel, the clutch fork will have moved the clutch
release bearing enough to completely release the clutch disc. At this point, the driver is able to shift
gears in the transmission without difficulty. When the clutch pedal is released, the tensioned overcenter spring returns the linkage to original position. With that, the clutch fork moves the release
bearing away from the pressure plate and the clutch disc is again clamped into engagement.
- Cable clutch control
Cable control of clutch operation is common in many manual transmission applications. A clip holds
the pedal in place one the shaft. The cable fork end is attached to the top end of the pedal shank by
a pin that extends through the fork end and a hole in the pedal shank. A return spring is attached to
the pin by passing the spring hook through a hole in the pin. The cable is held firmly in place by a
cable stop at the firewall.
The other end of the clutch control cable is connected to the outer end of the clutch release fork.
This end is threaded and fitted with an adjusting nut and a locknut to provide a means of adjusting
clutch pedal free play. When the clutch pedal is depressed, the cable is drawn inward. This forces
the end of the release fork to actuate the clutch release bearing, disengaging the clutch disc.
Various systems have been devised to provide self-adjustment of the clutch cable mechanism on
manual transaxle applications. Since the clutch release bearing is a constant running bearing, the
self-adjustment feature primarily affects the cable release mechanism.

2.3 Service procedure


- Clutch pedal adjustment
1) Measure the clutch pedal height (from the face of the pedal pad to the floorboard) and the clutch
pedal clevis pin play (measured at the face of the pedal pad).

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2) If the clutch pedal clevis pin free-play is not within the standard value range, adjust as follows:
-

Turn and adjust the bolt, then secure by tightening the lock nut.

After the adjustment, tighten the bolt until it reaches the pedal stopper, and then tighten the lock
nut.

Turn the push rod to agree with the standard value and then secure the push rod with the lock
nut.

When adjusting the clutch pedal height or the clutch pedal clevis pin play, be careful not to push
the push rod toward the master cylinder.

After completing the adjustments, check that the clutch pedal free play (measured at the face of
the pedal pad) within the standard value ranges.

If the clutch pedal free play and the distance between the clutch pedal and the floor board when
the clutch is disengaged do not meet with the standard values, it may be the result of either air in
the hydraulic system or a faulty master cylinder of clutch. Bleed the air or disassemble and
inspect the master cylinder or clutch.

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3. Manual Transaxle
3.1 Components
- Synchronizer Cone
Manual

transmissions

in

modern

passenger

cars

use

synchronizers to eliminate the need for double clutching. A


synchro's purpose is to allow the collar and the gear to make
frictional contact before the dogteeth make contact. This lets
the collar and the gear synchronize their speeds before the
teeth need to engage, like this:
The cone on the blue gear fits into the cone-shaped area in
the collar, and friction between the cone and the collar
synchronize the collar and the gear. The outer portion of the
collar then slides so that the dogteeth can engage the gear.
Every manufacturer implements transmissions and synchros in
different ways, but this is the general idea.

Single synchronizer cone

Double synchronizer cone

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The synchronizer is a drum or sleeve that slides back and forth on the splined output shaft by means
of the shifting fork. Generally, it has a bronze cone on each side that engages with a tapered mating
cone on the second and third speed gears. When this drum is moved along the output shaft, the
cones act as a clutch. Upon touching the gear that is to be engaged, the output shaft is speeded up
or slowed down as required until the speeds of the output shaft and the gear are synchronized.
Outer synchronizer

Outer synchronizer

Synchronizer cone

Synchronizer cone

Inner synchronizer

Inner synchronizer

Triple synchronizer system

Double synchronizer system

This action occurs during partial movement of the shift lever. Completion of lever movement then
slides the drum and gear into complete engagement. This action can be readily understood by
remembering that the hub of the drum slides on the splines of the output shaft to engage the cones,
and then the drum slides on the hub to engage the gears.
As the technology for manual transaxle and transmission is enhanced, the double or triple cone are
now adopting on the almost kinds of passenger vehicles. The purpose of these systems is to improve
the shift quality, especially for the 1st and 2nd gear shifting that most drivers feel the shift shock.
Triple synchronizer cone
Friction face
Key & Ball spring

Double cone synchronizer assembly


Synchronizer sleeve

Speed gear
Hub
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Some models of double or triple synchronizer cone, the foil lining adhesion structure was adopted and
it results higher friction capacity and durability. In addition to the more enhanced shift feeling while
driving, the shift effort, 2nd resistance feeling can be reduced and the durability also will be improved. It
prevents malfunctioned shifting due to overheat or burning.
Single cone

Force

2nd resistance feeling

Double cone

Stroke

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- Poppet ball

Without poppet ball

Poppet ball applied

The poppet ball is used to give the reliability of the engagement or disengagement of each gear while
the shift rail is moved.

The right side picture shows the bearing type


poppet system that was installed in alpha
manual transaxle. This type installed on the
portion of control shaft assembly so the
overall system can be simplified comparing
the conventional poppet ball type nearby shift
rail and transmission housing.

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- Synchronizer key
Key & Ball spring

Key

C-spring

The synchronizer key gives the secure engagement or disengagement of synchronizer sleeve when
the shift rail is moved. Several kinds of design show as above pictures, key with ball and coil spring
had been most widely adopted in the passenger vehicles, but current trend is to eliminate the key to
reduce the part due to the enhanced design technology of gear teeth and synchronizer cone.

Keyless spring

Key

C-spring
Keyless type

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- Interlock prevention mechanism
To prevent double shifting from two shift
rods of the manual transaxle at the
same time, a shift interlock system has
been incorporated. The interlock plate
is held in position by the shift interlock
bolt that allows the shift interlock plate to
rotate internally but not to move
vertically. When a shift rod is selected
and moved into an engagement
position, the shift interlock plate holds
the remaining two shift rods in their
neutral position to prevent a double
engagement from occurring. This
Shift rail

mechanism is installed on the shift


control shaft assembly.
On the other hand, the interlock sleeve,
that is a kind of pin type, had been used
in case of old fashioned model, but the
basic object to install that device is
same as pin type and the above system.
This sleeve is installed on the case to
lock the two rails like in the photo.

Differential gear

- Reverse gear lockout mechanism

Shift rail

Interlock sleeve

To prevent the manual transaxle from


being shifted into reverse gear
accidentally, a reverse lockout
mechanism has been incorporated.
When down shifting from 5th gear to 4th
gear, the reverse lockout mechanism
prevents shifting from accidental shifting
into the reverse gear position.
Before selecting reverse gear, shifting
must be conducted temporarily to the
neutral position to release the reverse
lockout mechanism.
- Anti-noise Mechanism
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As soon as the reverse idler gear moves when shift to reverse gear, the rotating input shaft because
of the rotating inertia force will be stopped by 5/Reverse sleeve. It prevents the noise due to the
collision between each shaft and reverse gear. It makes the reduced noise and improved shift ability
during shifting to reverse gear.

- Mass damper
Mass damper is adopted to reduce noise and vibration that is transmitted to shift cable

Weight damper

3.2 Power flow


- 5-speed

th

3rd

2nd

1st

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- 6-speed (MFA60 model)


1st Gear

2nd Gear

3rd Gear

4th Gear

5th Gear

6th Gear

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Reverse Gear

3.3 Switches
The unique electrical switch in the manual transmission is back-up lamp switch. Depends on the
vehicle, the vehicle speed sensor is installed on the manual transmission housing but it is not for
transmission but for engine and cluster. Nowadays, the neutral switch or 1st gear detection switch are
applied on the manual transmission housing. The basic purpose is,
-

For the emission control in neutral position

To get the
enough
power
at the uphill road vehicle start condition.
Back
up lamp
switch

According to the layout of transmission case, neutral switch or 1 st gear detection switch is adopted.
Note that these switches are almost applied only in diesel engine because the emission is sensitive
only in diesel engine.
HTX model:
Santa Fe, Trajet
D2.0 diesel (VGT only)
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1st gear detection switch

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Fuel injection amount is increased for enough climbing power at 1st gear.

Contact
portion

Neutral switch

Control finger

Neutral switch is applied as a standard in current rear driving transmission


(M5SR1,M5UR1,M5TR1,M5ZR1) : For HMC Terracan, H-1, H-100 KMC Sorento

4. Technical Highlight
4.1 M5AF3 (Alpha Manual Transaxle)

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Basically applied on the vehicle that has alpha engine (1.3L, 1.5L, 1.6L).
Refer the Variation table in the Appendix section in this manual.
Maximum torque (kgf.m): 13.5
Weight: 38kg
Rail: 3-Rail structure
Shift control type: Remote
Case pieces: 3 pcs.
Synchronizer system:
1st / 2nd: Single cone synchronizer with keyless type
3rd / 4th: Single cone synchronizer with key & spring type,
5th: Single cone synchronizer with key & spring type
Reverse: synchronized meshing
- Poppet ball added on 5&R shift rail

<Previous>

<Current>
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Poppet Ball

Control Shaft

- Gear Noise Reduction

Current

New

TB, LC, FC

Old

New

Old

New

- Improved shift feeling (1st and 2nd gear)

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- Improved shift feeling (Reverse gear)


Old

New

Old

New

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4.2 M5BF2 (Beta Manual Transaxle)

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Basically applied on the vehicle that has beta engine (1.6L, 2.0L).
But it also installed on 2.7L delta or alpha engine (1.3L, 1.5L) depends on the vehicle.
Refer the Variation table in the Appendix section in this manual.
Maximum torque (kgf.m): 18.4
Weight: 41kg
Rail: 3-Rail structure
Shift control type: Remote
Case pieces: 3 pcs.
Synchronizer system:
1st / 2nd: Double cone synchronizer with keyless type
3rd / 4th: Single cone synchronizer with keyless type,
5th: Single cone synchronizer with key & spring type
Reverse: synchronized meshing

4.3 HTX

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Applied on the HMC Santa Fe and KMC Carnival (Sedona).


Refer the Variation table in the Appendix section in this manual.
Maximum torque (kgf.m): 25.5
Weight: 51kg
Rail: 3-Rail structure
Shift control type: Remote
Case pieces: 3 pcs.
Synchronizer system:
1st / 2nd: Double cone synchronizer with key & spring
3rd / 4th: Single cone synchronizer with key & spring,
5th: Single cone synchronizer with key & spring
Reverse: Non synchronized meshing

- Alignment Type of Output Shaft Bearing


INDIRECT TYPE: The bearing for shaft holding was not installed on the end of shaft but on the
position between the final drive gear and 1st gear.

Drive
The merit of INDIRECT TYPE: The strength for shaft fixture is increased and it results
minimum shaft
gear
deflection.

1st gear

INDIRECT TYPE
The bearing is installed on the upper position
than differential drive gear and 1st gear.
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- Reverse Synchronizer Cone


As a result of using reverse synchronizer cone, it is
required to align the reverse synchronizer cone with
reverse shift fork to prevent the damage of the
reverse synchronizer cone when installing the
transaxle case. In addition to this, the reverse gear
can be selected while the vehicle moves toward
with 5km/h or less.
Alignment (Notch)

4.4 MFA60 (6-speed Manual Transaxle)

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Applied on the HMC GK 2.7L only.


Refer the Variation table in the Appendix section in this manual.
Manufactured by AICHI (Japan)
Maximum torque (kgf.m): 25
Weight: 53kg
Rail: 3-Rail structure
Shift control type: Remote
Case pieces: 2 pcs.
Synchronizer system:
1st / 2nd: Double cone synchronizer with key & spring type
3rd / 4th: Single cone synchronizer with key & spring type,
5th/ 6th: Single cone synchronizer with key & spring type
Reverse: Friction ring with insert spring key
- Diagram

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Reverse gear can be selected by lifting up the skirt on the knob.


1

R
1-2 shift bracket

Skirt

3-4 Shift bracket

5-6 Shift bracket

Reverse Shift bracket

- Comparison

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Shift check has a same function as of poppet ball in other models and mass damper was adopted
to reduce noise and vibration that is transmitted to shift cable.

- Gear ratio
G/RATIO

2.0D 6MT

2.7D 6MT

1ST

3.153

2ND

1.944

3RD

1.333

4TH

1.055

5TH

0.857

6TH

0.704

REV

3.002

FGR

4.687

4.428

- Stopper bolt, main shift check and tensioners for 3rd ~4th & 5th ~6th gears
3rd & 4th

5th & 6th

Stopper bolt

Shift check

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- Cap on reverse shift assembly

- Reverse insert spring on the reverse sleeve

Reverse sleeve

Reverse insert spring

When installing the case, be sure that the 8 (black) sealant coated bolts are replaced with new and
installed as shown.
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Note: Tightening torque, Black 63.0 ~66.9 Nm Gold 50~53.9 Nm

- Dual mass flywheel (DMF) was applied to reduce the clutch rattle noise. (2.7L delta only)
Primary F/W

Torsional Damper spring

DMF

Secondary F/W
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- SST
S/N
1

TOOL (Number & Name)

ILLUSTATION

09431-2C000

USE
Installation of differential oil seal

Differential oil seal installer

09431-2C100

Installation of input shaft oil seal.

Input shaft oil seal installer

09431-2C200

Removal of differential side bearing

Differential side bearing outer race

outer race.

remover

09431-2C300

Installation f differential side bearing

Differential side bearing outer race

outer race.

installer

09431-2C400

Removal of the differential taper roller

Differential taper roller bearing remover

bearing remover

09431-2C500

Installation of differential taper roller

Differential taper roller bearing installer

bearing.

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7

09432-2C000

Removal input shaft 3-4th gear.

Input shaft 3-4th gear remover plate

09432-2C100

Installation of main shaft 1-2nd rear

Main shaft 1-2nd gear rear installer

gear.

4.5 M5GF1

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Basically applied on the vehicle that has delta engine (2.5L, 2.7L) or more.
Refer the Variation table in the Appendix section in this manual.
Maximum torque (kgf.m): 23
Weight: 47kg
Rail: 1-Rail structure
Shift control type: Remote
Case pieces: 2 pcs.
Synchronizer system:
1st / 2nd: Triple cone synchronizer with keyless type
3rd / 4th: Single cone synchronizer with keyless type,
5th/ R: Single cone synchronizer with keyless type

From Apr. 2001


Triple cone synchronizer
Aluminum shift fork

Forged steel shift fork

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Clutch housing
Reverse
Synchronizer

T/M case

4.6 M5EF2

Input shaft

Output shaft

Double cone
synchronizer (2nd)
Carbon coating synchronizer (1st)
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Applied on the vehicle that has epsilon engine (1.0L, 1.1L).


Refer the Variation table in the Appendix section in this manual.
Maximum torque (kgf.m): 12
Weight: 27kg
Rail: 3-Rail structure
Shift control type: Remote (M5EF1: Direct type)
Case pieces: 3 pcs.
Synchronizer system:
1st / 2nd: Double cone synchronizer with key & spring
3rd / 4th: Single cone synchronizer with key & spring,
5th/ R: Synchronizer with key & spring
Carbon coating synchronizer (1st)

4.7 T5M

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Applied on the vehicle that has GT (T8D) 1.8L engine. (KMC)


Refer the Variation table in the Appendix section in this manual.
Maximum torque (kgf.m): 18
Weight: 36kg
Rail: 2-Rail structure
Shift control type: Direct
Case pieces: 3 pcs.
Synchronizer system:
1st / 2nd: Single (1st) and Double cone (2nd) synchronizer
3rd / 4th/ 5th: Single cone synchronizer

4.8 STC

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Applied on the vehicle that has GA (A3E, A5D, A6D) KMC


Refer the Variation table in the Appendix section in this manual.
Maximum torque (kgf.m): 16.5
Weight: 32kg
Rail: 3-Rail structure
Shift control type: Direct
Case pieces: 3 pcs.
Synchronizer system:
1st / 2nd: Single (1st) and Double cone (2nd) synchronizer
3rd / 4th/ 5th: Single cone synchronizer

4.9 M5UR1
M5UR1 is a newly developed FR (Front engine Rear driving) type manual transmission that is mainly
adopted on KMC Sorento.
- Maximum torque: 32kgfm
- Double ball bearing was applied on the input shaft for the secure support of input shaft and it results
higher reliability and lower vibration.

D/Ball-BEARING

Supporting
Area

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- Comparing with GT-10 model of Sportage (Max. torque: 19.6kgfm)

S/Ball-BEARING

Supporting
Area

- Synchronizer system
3rd-4th
(Double cone synchronizer)

Reverse
(Double cone synchronizer)

Double ball bearing

1st-2nd
(Triple cone synchronizer)

5th
(Single cone synchronizer)
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- Endplay
Input-Rear
0 0.1 Loose

Input-Front
0 0.1 Loose

Output-Front
0.02 0.12 Loose

- Gear endplay

Gear End Play


1st

0.10 0.20 Loose

2nd

0.13 0.28 Loose

3rd

0.10 0.20 Loose

5th

0.13 0.28 Loose

0.08 0.18 Loose

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Hub-Sync. End Play


1-2 Hub

0 0.08 Loose

3-4 Hub

0 0.08 Loose

5-Rev Hub

0 0.08 Loose

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- Overhaul
Removal of Input shaft assembly from rear cover

Double ball bearing

Heater

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It is recommended to use the heater while remove the double ball bearing from the input shaft
assembly.
Removal: Over 400 for 5min.
Reassemble : Over 400 for 15-20min.

4.10 M5SR1 / M5ZR1 / V5MT1


These manual transmissions are applied on the HMC Terracan, H-1, H-100, and Galloper.
- HMC Terracan M/T
TYPE
GENERAL
MODEL

MANUAL
2.5 TCI

2.9 TCI

3.5 V6

5-SPEED TRANSMISSION
WITH FLOOR SHIFT

5-SPEED TRANSMISSION
WITH FLOOR SHIFT

V5MT1

M5SR1

GEAR

1ST

3.918

3.915

RATIO

2ND

2.261

2.216

3RD

1.395

1.338

4TH

1.000

1.000

5TH

0.829

0.801

3.925

4.270

4.875

4.625

PUSH TYPE

PUSH TYPE

2.5

3.2

FINAL GEAR RATIO


CLUTCH TYPE
LUB. CAPA. (LITER)

- V5MT1 for 2.5TCi

Direct control type


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Maker: DTS Korea


To prevent the interrupting feeling during shifting, the synchronizer chamfer angle was changed from
103 to 90.
To improve the shift quality, the profile of rail groove and spring also was changed.

- M5SR1 model

BRG " B "


Clutch

BRG " A "


4th

3rd 2nd

Rev.

1st
5th

Transfer
BRG " C "

- Diagram of Transmission

BRG " D "

BRG " E "

BRG " F "


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M5ZR1

Items

4D56-TCI

M5SR1
KJ2.9, 3.5V6

A-2.5

TORQUE capacity

23kgm

Length (mm)

709.5 (2WD)

Shaft distance (mm)

79.348

93

DRY weight (kg)

41

58

CASE type

2PIECES

3PIECES

T/M CONTROL type

REMOTE

SYNCH.
TYPE

40kgm
741.1 (2WD)
737 (4WD)

675.7 (4WD only)

DIRECT

REMOTE

1st

DOUBLE

TRIPPLE CONE

2nd

3rd

SINGLE CONE

DOUBLE CONE

4th

SINGLE CONE

5th

DOUBLE CONE(Lever Synchro)

rev.

Application

H-1, H-100, Galloper

Terracan

SR, A-1

CONTROL

SHIFT, SELECT LEVER


sepatating type

TOP COVER
concentrating type

C/SHAFT
concentrating type

- M5SR1 (Direct control type: Terracan)

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- M5SR1 (Remote control type: H-1)

- M5ZR1 (Remote control type)

5. DMF (Dual Mass Flywheel)

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5.1 General
Merit

Demerit

1.Reduced change of angular velocity in drive train.

1.Reduced rotational moment of inertia as a

- Reduced gear rattle noise at idle and driving.

flywheel function.

- Smooth shift feeling at low speed driving.

- Lower durability of engine TIMING BELT


(Can be solved by changing the belt material)

2.Reduced vibration from engine crankshaft.


- Reduced booming noise at low RPM during acceleration.
- Reduced noise during acceleration

2. The weight of secondary flywheel is reduced since


the flywheel is divided into two section.

- Reduced body shock and vibration due to

- The cooling capacity of secondary flywheel is decreased

TIP-IN & OUT of acceleration pedal

under the hard driving condition.


It results lower durability of clutch frictional disc

3. Reduced rotational moment of inertia in

comparing with conventional clutch system.

clutch system.

(High capacity frictional disc is required)

- Smooth shift feeling


- Improved durability of synchronizer system inside of T/M

4. It is being adopted widely on europe and japan


maker such as VW, DC, BMW, AUDI, TOYOTA for NVH.

- DMF clutch system vs. Conventional clutch


Cover
system
DMF

2nd Mass

Damper
Spring

Clutch
Cover

F/W

1st Mass

Damper
Spring

Clutch
Cover
Spring

Spring

Clutch
Disc

Clutch
Disc

5.2 Structure

Drive Plate

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LUK product

DAIKIN product

VALEO product

HMC / KMC

6. Overhaul
6.1 HTX
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In case of HTX manual transaxle, removal and installation of the input shaft assembly (Input
shaft + gear assembly) and output shaft assembly (Output shaft + gear assembly) are impossible
as one set. Be sure that the removal of input shaft assembly and output shaft assembly should be
followed after removing all gears from the two shafts.
When removing the differential assembly of the vehicle with 4WD, the one differential
hexagonal bolt should be removed and then the differential should be removed by slightly
leaning one side, taking care not to contact with the housing.
In the contrast, when removing the differential assembly of the vehicle with 2WD, there is no
need to remove the differential ring gear bolt due to the enough room comparatively.
When removing the 4-output shaft bearing cover (retainer) screws, seat the hexagonal wrench to
the groove of screw using a hammer or equivalent and then remove the screws.
- SST
TOOL

ILLUSTRATION

USE

(NUMBER AND NAME)


09431-39000

Oil seal installer

Installation of differential oil


seal

(Use with 09500-11000)

09500-11000

Driver

Installation of differential oil


seal

09532-32000

Bearing outer race installer

Installation of bearing outer


race

(Use with 09500-21000)

09500-21000

Driver

Installation of bearing outer


race

09432-33300

Bearing installer

Installation of input shaft rear


ball bearing

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09432-3A100

Gear installer

Installation of input/output
shaft gear and clutch hub

09431-3A000

Removal of transaxle case

Support for installation of

Transaxle case remover

09431-3A100
Clutch housing support

input shaft

- Disassembly

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1) Remove the rear cover.

3) Remove the lock nut and retainer ring.


4) Remove the detent plug, the spring, the back-up
lamp switch and the steel ball.

6) Remove the transaxle case bolts.

8) Remove the transaxle case using the special tool.

09431-3A000

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9) Remove the reverse shift lever the reverse lever
spring set and the reverse idler shaft and gear.

11) Remove the change rod and the control case.

13) Carefully remove the roll pins from the rod/fork


assembly with a pinpunch.
First, remove the 5th/Rev. shift rod, and the 5th/
Rev. shift fork 5th/Rev. shift rod end.

15) Remove the 3rd/4th shift rod, the 3rd/4th shift fork
and the 3rd/4th shift rod end.

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16) Remove the 1st/ 2nd shift rod, the 1st/2nd shift fork
and the 1st/2nd shift rod end.

18) Remove the snap ring for the input shaft rear ball
bearing.

20) Remove the input shaft rear ball bearing and 5th

General tool

gear assembly at the same time using the general


tool.

22) Remove the output shaft spacer and the snap ring.

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23) Remove the output shaft 4th/5th gear using the

General tool

general tool.

25) Remove the input shaft gear sleeve and 4th gear
using the general tool.

General tool

1) Gear sleeve

3) 4th gear

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5) Needle bearing

27) Remove the input shaft synchronizer ring.

29) Remove the input shaft snap ring for the clutch hub.

31) Remove the input shaft clutch hub sleeve.

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33) Remove the input shaft and 3rd gear using the
General tool

general tool.

1) Check the clutch hub, the synchronizer, the 3rd


gear and the needle bearing.

35) Remove the output shaft 2nd/3rd gear using the

General tool

general tool.

37) Remove the output shaft needle bearing and


spacer.

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39) Remove the output shaft synchronizer inner ring
and double cone.

41) Remove the output shaft synchronizer ring and key


spring.

43) Remove the output shaft reverse gear.

45) Remove the output clutch hub and 1st gear using
General tool

the general tool.

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1) Spacer

3) Clutch hub

5) Synchronizer ring

7) Double cone

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9) Synchronizer inner ring

11) 1st gear

13) Needle bearing

47) Remove the input shaft.

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49) Remove the output shaft bearing retainer cover
using the hexagonal wrench.
NOTE
Securely seat the removal tool to the groove of
retainer screw using a hammer or equivalent
and then remove the retainer.

51) Remove the output shaft.


NOTE
Intermittently seat the case and tighten the nut,
and then remove the output shaft using a proper
tool as shown in the illustration.

53) After removing the speedometer driven gear,


remove the differential assembly.
NOTE
Lay down the clutch housing aslant and then
remove the clutch housing.

55) Remove the input shaft oil seal with a screwdriver or


suitable tool.

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57) Remove the change rod oil seal and the differential
oil seal with a screwdriver or a suitable tool.

59) Remove the bearing outer race with a suitable tool.

61) Remove the output shaft outer race of the transaxle


case with a screwdriver or suitable tool.

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- Reassembly
1) Install the new oil seal to the transaxle case using
the special tool.

3) Install the shim and apply the transaxle oil to the


bearing outer race, and install it to the transaxle
case using the special tool.

5)

Install the shim(s) to the input and output shaft


Suitable tool

bearing seats in the transaxle case. And apply the


transaxle oil to each bearing race, and install them
to the transaxle case using the suitable tool.

7) Install new oil seal using a suitable tool.


8) Apply the transaxle oil to the input shaft oil seal, and
install it to the clutch housing using the suitable tool.

Suitable tool

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9)

Install the differential into the clutch housing

11) After installing the speedometer driven gear, install


the output shaft .

13) Install the output shaft bearing retainer using the


hexagonal wrench.
NOTE
Securely seat the installation tool to the groove
of retainer screw using a hammer or equivalent
and then install the retainer.

15) Install the input shaft.

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17) Install the special tool to the clutch housing.

09431-3A100

19) Install the output shaft clutch hub and 1st gear
09432-3A100

using the special tool.

1) Needle bearing

3) 1st gear

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5) Synchronizer inner ring

7) Double cone

9) Synchronizer ring

11) Clutch hub

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13) Spacer

15) Output shaft reverse gear

17) Output shaft synchronizer ring and key spring.

19) Output shaft synchronizer inner ring double


cone and spacer.

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21) Install the output shaft needle bearing.

23) Install the output shaft 2nd/3rd gear using the

09432-3A100

special tool.

25) Install the input shaft clutch hub sleeve.

27) Install the input shaft snap ring for the clutch hub.

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29) Install the input shaft synchronizer ring.

31) Install the output shaft 4th/5th gear using the

09432-3A100

special tool.

33) Install the input shaft gear sleeve, 4th/5th gear and

09432-3A100

needle bearing using the special tool.

35) Install the output shaft spacer.

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37) Install the input shaft clutch hub, synchronizer ring

09432-3A100

and 5th gear using the special tool.

39) Install the input shaft clutch hub sleeve.

41) Install the input shaft synchronizer ring.

43) Install the input shaft reverse cone.

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45) Install the input shaft reverse cone sleeve.

47) Install the input shaft rear ball bearing using the

09432-33300

special tool.

49) Install the snap ring for the input shaft rear ball
bearing.

51) Install the 1st/2nd shift rod, fork and rod end.

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53) Install the 3rd/4th shift rod, fork and rod end.

55) Install the 5th/Rev. shift rod , fork and rod end.

57) Install the change rod and the control case.

59) Install the reverse shift lever, the reverse lever


spring set and reverse idler shaft and gear.

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61) Install the transaxle case.

63) Install the detent plug, the spring, the back-up lamp
switch, the steel ball, the lock nut and the snap ring.

65) Install the rear cover.

6.2 M5EF1
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-DISASSEMBLY
1) Remove the drain plug and drain the oil

2) Remove the rear cover bolts, the rear cover, the

Rear cover
Bracket

back up light switch and the gasket and the


mounting bracket.
Backup light switch

3) Remove the seal bolts, the poppet spring and the


mounting bracket.

NOTE
Be careful not to lose the springs or balls.

4) Remove the spring pin using the special tool


(09414-11000).

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5) Remove the lock nuts of the input shaft and the
output shaft.
Bracketnut
Lock

6) Shift the transaxle into the third speed using the


control lever.
7) Shift the fifth speed synchronizer to the fifth speed
gear, then loosen and remove the lock nuts.

8) Remove the fifth speed synchronizer sleeve and the


shift fork.
9) Remove the fifth synchronizer hub and the ring with
09455-21000

the fifth speed gear and the needle bearing using


the special tool (09455-21000)

10) Remove the fifth speed gear on the output shaft


using the special too (09455-21000).
09455-21100

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11) Remove the fifth gear sleeve and then remove the

Snap ring

snap ring.

12) Remove the reverse gear shaft bolt.

Transaxle case

13) Remove the transaxle case fixing bolts in the


clutch housing and then remove the transaxle
case.

Clutch housing

14) Remove the oil guides.


Oil guide

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15) Remove the output shaft bearing outer racer.
16) Remove the reverse shift lever.
Reverse shift lever

17) Remove the reverse gear shift and the reverse


gear.
Reverse gear

Reverse gear shaft

18) Remove the spring pins using the special tool


09414-11000

(09414-11000).

19) Detach the shift rail and fork assembly.

3&4 shift rail


5&R shift rail
1&2 shift rail

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20) Remove the input shaft assembly and the output
shaft assembly at the same time.

21) Remove the differential gear assembly.

22) Remove the speedometer driven gear assembly.

23) Remove the output shaft bearing outer race.

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24) Remove the driveshaft oil seal using the special
tool.

25) Remove the output shaft oil guide.

26) Remove the input shaft oil seal.

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- REASSEMBLY
1) Install the driveshaft oil using the special tool
(09431-21000).
09431-21000

NOTE
Insert the oil seal straightly.

2) Install the input shaft front oil seal using the special
tool (09431-23000).

09431-23000

NOTE
Do not reuse the oil seal.

3) Install the output shaft oil guide.

4) Install the output shaft bearing outer race using the


09532-11500

special tool (09532-11500).

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5) Install the differential gear assembly.

6) Install the input shaft assembly and the output shaft


assembly at the same time.

7) Reassembly of the shift rail assemblies.

3&4 shift rail

Place the first and second speed synchronizer

5&R shift rail


1&2 shift rail

sleeve to neutral position.


Place the third and fourth speed synchronizer
sleeve to neutral position.
Install the shift rail and fork assemblies.

8) Reassembly of spring pin.


Install the spring pins using the special tool

09414-11000

(09414-11000) or pin punch.


When installing, make sure that the slit of the
spring pin is aligned with center line of the shift
rail.

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CAUTION

Slit

Do not reuse the spring pin.

Spring pin

Shift rail

9) Install the reverse gear.

10) Install the reverse shift lever.


Reverse shift
lever

11) Install the driveshaft oil seal in the transaxle case


using the special tool (09431-21200_.

09431-21200

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12) Install the output shaft bearing outer race and the

09500-11000

spacer using the special tool (09500-11000,


09532-11500).
09532-11500

13) Installation of spacer.


Place two pieces of rosin-core shoulder with 3mm
in diameter on the bearing outer race as
illustrated.
Install the transaxle case temporarily and tighten
the bolts to the specified torque, then remove
Solder

the transaxle case.


Detach the crushed solders.
Measure the thickness of the crushed solder.
Select and install the proper spacers which
complete specification.
Endplay

Standard value

Input shaft

0 ~ 0.15 mm

Output shaft

-0.05 ~ 0.10 mm

Differential

0 ~ 0.15 mm

14) Install the oil guide in the transaxle case.


Oil guide

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15) Apply the specified sealant to the clutch housing
side of the transaxle case.
Specified sealant: MS721-40

Transaxle case

16) Install the transaxle case onto the clutch housing


assembly and tighten the bolts.

Clutch housing

17) Center the shaft with screw driver.


18) Tighten the reverse gear shaft bolt to the specified
torque.

19) Install the poppet balls, the poppet springs, and


the seal bolts.

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20) Install the output shaft gear using the suitable tool.
Suitable tool

21) Install the rear bearing and spacer onto the input

Snap ring

shaft and then insert the snap ring. Install the 5th
speed gear sleeve.

22) Install the 5th speed gear, the needle roller


bearing,

the

synchronizer

ring

and

the

synchronizer hub.

23) Install the fifth speed gear shift fork and the
synchronizer sleeve at the same time.

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24) Installation of locking nut.
Shift transaxle into first speed with the control
lever and the select lever.
Engage the fifth speed sleeve to the fifth speed
gear.
Tighten the lock nut to the specified torque.

CAUTION
Do not reuse the lock nut.
25) Install the spring pin using the special tool (09414-

Slit

11100) or pin punch.

Spring pin

CAUTION
Do not reuse the spring pin.
Shift rail

26) When installing, make sure that the slit of the


spring pin is aligned with center line of the shift
rail.
27) Apply the specified sealant to the rear cover and
install the rear cover.
Specified sealant : MS721-40

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28) Install the speedometer driven gear assembly.

Shift rail

29) Install the back up light switch.

Bracket

30) Install the mounting bracket.

Backup light
switch

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6.3 M5AF3, M5BF2
- DISASSEMBLY
1) Remove the control & select cable bracket.

Bracket

2) Remove the back up light switch.

Back up light switch

3) Remove the rear cover bolts and the rear cover.


Rear cover

4) Remove the spring pin of the fifth speed shift fork


using the special tool.

09414-11000

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5) To remove the lock nuts of input shaft and output
shaft, unstake the lock nuts.
Lock nut

6) Remove and discard the lock nuts of input shaft and


output shaft.

7) Remove the race.

Race

8) Remove the stop plate.

Stop plate

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9) Remove the fifth synchronizer sleeve and the 5th
shift fork.

10) Remove the fifth synchronizer hub, the ring with

09455-21000

fifth speed gear and the needle roller bearing


using the special tool.

11) Remove the fifth speed gear after removing the

09455-21000

lock nut on the output shaft using the special tool


(09455-21000).

Fifth
speed gear

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12) Remove the fifth speed gear sleeve and race.

Fifth gear sleeve

Snap ring

Race

13) Remove the reverse gear shaft bolt.

Reverse gear
shaft bolt

14) Remove the fifth & reverse shift rail poppet bolt.

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15) Remove the transaxle case mounting bolts (14EA)
and then the transaxle case.

16) Remove the oil guide.

17) Remove the output shaft bearing outer race and


the space.

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18) Remove the reverse shift lever.

19) Remove the reverse gear shaft and gear.


1st-2nd spring pin

20) Remove the spring pin of 3rd-4th gear shift fork.

3rd-4th spring pin

CAUTION
Be careful not to damage it when removing 1st2nd spring pin.

3rd-4th shift rail

21) Remove the shift rail & fork for 3rd-4th & 5th-Rev.

5th-Rev. shift rail

Fork assembly

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22) Remove the shift rail & fork for 1st-2nd.

1st-2nd shift rail

1st-2nd shift fork

23) Remove the bearing retainer.

Bearing retainer

24) Pull out the input shaft from the clutch housing

Input shaft assembly

inclining the output shaft.


Output shaft assembly

25) Remove the differential gear assembly.

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26) Remove the speedometer driven gear assembly.

27) Remove the output shaft bearing outer race.

28) Remove the oil seal.

29) Remove the output shaft oil guide.

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30) Remove the input shaft oil seal.

31) Remove the control shaft assembly.

Remove the bolt (12mm - 1EA) which is installed to


the rear portion of clutch housing.

Using special tool (09414-11000), remove the lock


pin.

NOTE
When removing the control shaft, the lock pin should
be removed first.

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With holding and twisting the control shaft by hand,
pull the control shaft out of its position.

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- REASSEMBLY
1) Install the drive shaft oil seal using the special tool.
09431-21200

NOTE
Insert the oil seal straightly.

2) Install the input shaft front oil seal using the special
tool.

CAUTION
Do not reuse the oil seal.

3) Install the output shaft oil guide.

4) Install the output shaft bearing outer race using the


special tools.

09500-11000
09532-11500

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5) Install the control shaft assembly.

After inserting the rubber boot onto the control

Clutch housing sidewall

shaft, insert the control shaft into the clutch


housing.

Rubber boot

Insert the neutral return spring (B) onto the control

Neutral return spring (B)

shaft.

NOTE
Larger diameter of the neutral return spring (B) should
be toward the side wall of the clutch housing as shown
above.
Slide the control finger inside the inter lock plate,
Inter lock plate

and then slide the assembly onto the control shaft.

Control finger

NOTE
The lug on the control finger should point in the same
direction as the control shaft lever.

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Insert the stopper plate.
Push the control shaft assembly into the clutch
housing support hole.
Push the lock pin through the control finger and
control shaft.
Neutral return spring (A)

6) Install the differential gear assembly.

7) Insert the output shaft, inclining the differential

Input shaft assembly

assembly.
And insert the input shaft, inclining the output shaft.

Output shaft assembly

8) Install the input shaft bearing retainer.

CAUTION
Apply a three BOND 1303 on the hex-bolts

Bearing retainer

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9) Reassembly of the shift rail assemblies.
Place the first and second speed synchronizer
sleeve to the second gear position in order to get
installing space of 1st-2nd shift rail assembly.
Place the third and fourth speed synchronizer
sleeve to neutral position.
Install the shift rail and fork assemblies.
10) Reassembly of spring pin.
09414-11100

Install the spring pins using the special tool or pin


punch.

CAUTION
Do not reuse the spring pin.

1st-2nd spring pin

3rd-4th spring pin

When installing, make sure that the slit of the spring

Slit

pin is aligned with center line of the shift rail.

Spring pin

Shift rail

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11) Install the reverse gear shaft and reverse gear.

12) Install the reverse shift lever.

13) Install the drive shaft oil seal in the transaxle case
09431-21200

using the special tool.

CAUTION
Do not reuse the oil seal.

14) Install the input shaft bearing outer race and


spacer using the special tools.
15) Install the output shaft bearing outer race and
09500-11000

spacer using the special tools.

09432-22100

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16) Installation of spacer.

Solder

Place two pieces of rosin-core solder with 3mm in


diameter on the bearing outer race as illustrated.

Install the transaxle case temporarily and tighten


the bolts to the specified torque, then remove the
transaxle case.

Detach the crushed solders.

Solder

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Measure the thickness of the crushed solder.
Select and install the proper spacers.
ITEMS

Standard value(mm)

Output shaft rear bearing

0.05T - 0.10T

Output shaft rear bearing

0.05T - 0.17T

SELECTION EXAMPLE
Output shaft
- The thickness of the crushed solder : 1.72mm
- Standard value : 0.07T (mm)
1.72mm + 0.07mm = 1.79mm
Therefore, select the spacer of the 1.79mm
thickness.
17) Install the oil guide in the transaxle case.

18) Apply the specified sealant to the clutch housing


side of the transaxle case.
Specified sealant: MS721-40

Solder

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19) Install the transaxle case onto the clutch housing
assembly and tighten the bolts.
Tightening torque
Transaxle case: 35~42Nm (350~420kgcm, 26~31lbft)

20) Center the reverse idler gear shaft with screw


driver.

21) Tighten the reverse idler gear shaft bolt to the


specified torque.
Tightening torque
Reverse gear shaft bolt:
43~55Nm (430~550kgcm, 32~41lbft)

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22) Install the 5th-REV, shift rail poppet bolt.

23) Install the output shaft gear using the special tool.

09432-33300

24) Install the rear bearing, spacer, snap ring and 5th

Fifth gear sleeve

gear sleeve.

Snap ring

25) Install the fifth speed gear, needle roller bearing,


synchronizer ring and synchronizer hub.

CAUTION
Place the oil groove of synchronizer hub toward
the fifth speed gear.

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26) Install the stop plate.

Stop plate

Race

27) Install the race.

28) Install the 5th shift fork and the 5th synchronizer
sleeve at the same time.

29) Reassembly of locking nut.


Shift the transaxle into 3rd and 5th gear.
Tighten the lock nut to the specified torque.
Tightening torque :
140~160Nm (1400~1600kgcm, 102~115lbft)

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Stake the lock nut.

30) Install the spring pin using the special tool or pin
punch.

CAUTION

09414-11000

Do not reuse the spring pin.

31) When installing, make sure that the slit of the

Slit

spring pin is aligned with the center line of the shift

Spring pin

rail.

Shift rail

32) Apply the specified sealant to the rear cover and


install the rear cover.
Specified sealant: MS721-40

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33) Install the rear cover bolts (8EA) and the rear
Rear cover

cover.

34) Install the speedometer driven gear assembly.


Tightening torque
Speedometer driven gear:
3~5Nm (30~50kgcm, 2.3~3.6lbft)

35) Install the back up light switch


Tightening torque
Back up light switch:
30~35Nm (303~350kgcm, 22~25lbft)

Back up light switch

36) Install the shift cable bracket.

Bracket

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6.4 M5GF1
- DISASSEMBLY
1) Remove THE TRANSAXLE MOUNTING BRACKET.

2) Remove the shift control cable bracket.

3) Remove the clutch release cylinder.


4) Remove the backup lamp switch.

5) Remove the speedometer driven gear.

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6) Remove the clutch release fork shaft and the
release bearing sleeve.

Clutch release
fork shaft

7) Remove the reamer bolt.

8) Remove the poppet ball assembly.

9) Remove the side cover and the reverse idler gear


assembly.
10) Remove the select lever and the shift lever.

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Snap ring

11) Remove the clutch housing from the transmission


case with the snap ring extended.

12) Remove the interlock body and the control shaft.


Control shaft
Interlock body

13) Remove the shift rail.

14) Remove the fork shift (5th & Rev).

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15) Remove the fort shift (3rd & 4th)

16) Remove the fork shift (1st & 2nd)

17) Remove the bearing retainer.

18) Remove the output shaft assembly and the input


shaft assembly.

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19) Remove the differential assembly.

20) Remove the detent body cover and the roller


bearing.
21) Remove the output shaft roller bearing spacer.

Detent body cover

22) Remove the differential bearing outer spacer using


special tool (09455-32200) and the drive shaft oil

09455-32200

seal.

23) Remove the shift arm and the select arm from the
transmission case.

Shift select arm

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-REASSEMBLY
1) Install the drive shaft oil seal using the special tool
09500-11000

(09431-39000 and 09500-11000).

09431-39000

NOTE
Insert the oil seal straightly.

2) Install the shaft arm and the select arm in the


transaxle case.

Shift select arm

3) Install the output shaft roller bearing spacer.


4) Install the detent body cover and the roller bearing.

Detent body cover

5) Install the differential assembly.

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6) Install the output shaft assembly and the input shaft
assembly.

7) Install the retainer bearing.

8) Install the fork shift (1st & 2nd)

9) Install the fork shift (3rd & 4th)

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10) Install the fork shift (5th & Rev).

11) Install the shift rail.

12) Install the interlock body and the control shaft.


Control shaft
Interlock body

13) Install the clutch housing on the transmission case


with the snap ring extended.

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14) Install the select lever, the shift lever and the oil
seal.

15) Install the side cover and the reverse idler gear
assembly.
16) Install the poppet ball assembly.

17) Install the reamer bolt.

18) Install the clutch release fork shaft and the release
bearing sleeve.

Clutch
release
fork shaft

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19) Install the speedometer driven gear.

20) Install the backup lamp.

21) Install the clutch release cylinder mounting


bracket.

22) Install the shift control mounting bracket.


23) Install the mounting bracket.

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Appendix
- Variation
Vehicle
HMC

MX

ATOS

Engine Volume

Model

0.8S, 1.0S,

M5EF1

0.8 TCI
LC

Accent

1.3S, 1.5S, 1.5, 1.5L/B

M5AF3

1.6
FC

Matrix

1.5, 1.6, 1.8, 1.5DI

M5BF2

XD

Elantra

1.5, 1.6, 1.8, 2.0,

M5BF2

2.0DI

M5GF1

1.8, 2.0, 2.0F, 2.5

M5GF1

EF '03MY

XG

LZ

EF Sonata

XG350

Centennial

YJ

2.7

M5GF1-1

2.0, 2.5

M5GF1-1

2.7, 3.0, 3.5

3.0, 3.5, 4.5GDI

3.5, 4.5, 4.5GDI

M2

Santamo

2.0, 2.0F

FO

TRAJET XG

2.0, 2.7, 2.7F, 2.0DI

SM

SANTA FE

2.0, 2.4, 2.7, 2.7F, 2.0DI

GALLOPER

2.5NA, 2.5TC, 2.5TCI,

QA F/L

KM206, KM210
M5GF1, HTX

2.6DI, 3.0S, 3.0F


HP

TERRACAN

HTX
KM135M, V5MT1
T/F: MECH

2.5TCI, 2.9DI, 3.0S, 3.5

V5MT1, AR5, M5SR1


T/F: EST, TOD

A1

H-1

2.4, 2.4F, 2.5TC/TCI,


2.6NA, 3.0S

KM135M, M5ZR1
T/F: EST

AU

H-100 Truck

2.4, 2.4F, 2.5TC, 2.6NA

M5ZR1

AH

H-100 Mini bus

2.4, 2.4F, 2.5TC, 2.6NA

KM135M, M5ZR1

SR

H-1 Truck '03MY

2.5TC/TCI (4D56),

M5SR1, M5ZR1

A-2.5TCI, 3.0F
TB

LC '03MY
MC
XD F/L

Getz

1.1S, 1.3S, 1.5, 1.6

M5AF3

1.5DI

M5BF2

Accent

1.3S, 1.5S, 1.5, 1.6, 1.5DI

M5AF3, M5BF2

1.3S, 1.5S, 1.5, 1.5DI, 1.6

M5/6CF1

AVANTE XD

1.5, 1.6, 1.8, 2.0, 2.0DI

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M5BF2, M5GF1

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HD
GK

1.5, 1.6, 1.8, 2.0, 2.0DI


1.6, 2.0, 2.7

M5BF2, MFA60

JM

2.0, 2.0DI, 2.7

M5GF1 (4WD)

NF

1.8, 2.0, 2.2, 2.7,3.0

M5/6GF2

2.0, 2.5, 2.7, 3.0, 3.5

M5GF1-1

2.0, 2.5, 2.7F, 3.0, 3.5

M5/6GF2

XG '03MY

TUSCANY/Coupe

XG350

TG
FO/SM
SM

TRAJET/SANTA FE

2.0 DSL VGT

SANTAFE

3.5

M5HF1 MODIFY
-

PO

2.0, 2.0DI, 2.7, 2.7F

M5/6GF2

CM

2.0, 2.0DI, 2.4, 2.7, 2.7F

M5/6GF2

A1 F/L

STAREX

2.5TCI(4D56),

M5SR1, M5ZR1

A-2.5TCI

T/F: EST

TQ

2.5TCI, A2.5TDI, 2.7

M5TR1

HR

A2.5DI, 2.6DI

M5TR1

A2.5TDI

M5TR1

3.5, 4.5, 2.5VGT

M5SR1

SR

LIBERO

TN
KMC

M5/6CF1,2

TR, TS

TOWNER

0.8, 0.8F

A8S5

Joice

2.0, 2.0F

KM206, KM210

MXL

VISTO

0.8, 0.8F, 0.8T, 1.0S

PRD

PRIDE

1.3S, 1.5S, 1.5

B5M

RIO

1.3S, 1.5S, 1.5

ST-C

SD F/L

SPECTRA

1.5, 1.8

ST-C, T5M

UK F/L

SPECTRA WING

1.5S, 1.5, 1.6, 1.8

ST-C, T5M

RS

CARENS

1.8, 1.8F, 2.0F

MS F/L

OPTIMA

1.8, 2.0, 2.5, 2.7

ETP

ENTERPRISE

2.5, 3.0

GQ

CARNIVAL

2.5, 2.5F, 2.9DI

DS

BC

M5EF1

T5M, M5BF2
M5GF1
HTX

2.5, 2.5F, 3.5


AL

SPORTAGE

2.0DI

GT10

JL F/L

RETONA

2.0, 2.0DI

GT10

CT

PREGIO

2.7DI, 3.0DI

RT10

TU

FRONTIER

2.7DI, 3.0DI

RT10

AW

FRONTIER 1.3

3.0DI

RT10

SA

Picanto

0.8S, 0.8TCI, 1.0S

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TC
LD
RS F/L

1.0S, 1.1S, 1.3S, 1.5


Cerato

1.5, 1.6, 1.8, 2.0DI

CARENS

1.6,1.8, 1.8F, 2.0F, 2.0DI

UN
MS UPGRADE

M5AF3
ST-C, M5BF2, M5GF1
ST-C, M5BF2, M5GF1, T5M

1.8, 1.8F, 2.0F, 2.0DI

M5GF2

2.0, 2.5, 2.0F

M5GF1

MG

1.8, 2.0, 2.5,2.7

M5/6GF2

GH

2.5, 2.7L, 3.0,3.5

NL

2.0,2.7,2.0 DSL

M5GF1 (4WD)

BL

2.4, 3.5, 2.5DI

VQ

2.7, 3.5, 2.0DI, 2.9DI

LT
CT, TU F/L

M5UR1
HTX2

LCV (FR)

2.5DI, 2.9DI

M5SR1, M5UR1

PREGIO, FRONTIER

2.5DI, 2.7DI, 2.9DI

M5ZR1, M5TR1

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