Pears

Grow
Once established, pears require very little care throughout the year.
Water them during dry spells and from when the fruit starts to swell, particularly if they
are newly planted or in containers.
In early spring, sprinkle a balanced general fertiliser (such as Growmore) around the
base of the plant, following the manufacturers instructions.
Pears should be pruned every year to get the best crop. Timing and method of pruning
depends on the type of pear you are growing.
Read our advice on pear pruning

Plant
The ideal position for a pear tree is a sunny, sheltered site, well away from any frost
pockets. Avoid poorly drained or shallow soils.
You will see pear trees for sale in two forms: bare-root stock (where the roots are
exposed when you purchase them) or in containers. Bare-root plants should be planted
from late autumn until early spring; containerised plants can be planted at any time of
year, although winter is preferred.

Planting in containers
If you want to grow a pear in a container you must choose one that has been specially
grown for it. Pear trees are not grown on their own roots. The top of the tree is grafted
onto different roots (called a rootstock), and the roots control the size of the tree.
Therefore, when you are choosing a pear for a container you must make sure it is
grafted onto a container rootstock. Look out for rootstocks called Quince C for a
container.

Choose a container that is 45-50cm (18-20in) in diameter. When planting, place some
crocks (small pieces of broken concrete, clay pots, or polystyrene) in the bottom of the
containers to retain moisture. Use a good-quality compost (John Innes No 3 is ideal), or
multi-purpose compost mixed with one-third by volume of grit.

Planting in the garden

If planting in the garden, dig a hole no deeper than the roots, but up to three times the
diameter of the root system (spread the roots out on the ground before digging the
hole). If the sides or base of the planting hole are really hard, break the soil up with a
fork before planting. Place the plant in the planting hole and carefully refill, placing soil
between and around all the roots to eliminate air pockets. Firm the soil gently by
stepping on it.
If you want to train your pear tree it pays to choose the right rootstock to plant up.
Quince A: The most commonly found rootstock in garden centres, Quince A can be
used for espaliers or bush trees.
Quince C: Being slightly less vigorous than Quince A, Quince C is more suitable for
cordons, but can also be used for an espalier or bush tree.
Aftercare is very important for new trees, so read more of our advice on

Problems
Brown rot: Brown rot is a fungal disease causing a brown, spreading rot in
fruit, sometimes with white pustules of fungi on the surface. It is usually
worse in wet summers.
Remedy: Remove all rotten fruit as soon as you see it and destroy; this will
prevent the spread of the rot. There is no chemical control.
Read more on brown rot
Pear rust: Pear rust is a disease causing bright orange spots on the upper
surfaces of pear leaves in summer and early autumn.

Remedy: Remove all infected leaves as soon as you see them and destroy,
this will prevent the spread of the rust. There is no chemical control.
Find out more on pear rust
Pear leaf blister mite: This mite is a common problem on pear leaves,
causing yellow or red blisters that eventually turn black. The damage is
unsightly but does not affect the crop.
Remedy: There is no control, other than removing the damaged leaves.

Harvesting
Harvest pears just before they are fully ripened. They should be firm and
swollen, with a subtle colour change to their skin.
Test early varieties by tasting one of the fruit for sweetness, yet firmness.
Later varieties should part easily from the tree when lifted and gently
twisted.
Pears benefit from storage or a period of ripening before eating: early
cultivars usually need a week or so until they become softer, while later
ones can need months before being ready for eating.