Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Travelogue of a Foot-soldier
In 2014, we discussed about this dream peace project where he would walk to Indias neighbouring countries (starting
with Pakistan) with the message of peace and love. This was not the only challenge, but there was another walking
without money! I got damn interested this time and agreed to walk with him for first 20 days Ahmadabad to Udaipur
in India.
I was very excited since the day I agreed. I knew there was a beast (as well a clown) waiting for me in this road less
taken. I prepared my mind, body and emptied my wallet for a mad adventure that might change my life forever. I read
somewhere that if you want things you dont have, you have to do things you have never done before. That day I knew
some miracle was about to happen and with great determination, I agreed to walk this path of fire, I decided to take
the road less taken and opened the forbidden package...
The whole universe was in like Silence Mode. We decided to walk in silence till sunrise Me, Yogesh Mathuria,
Sheetal Sanghvi and Vijai Yadav.
WALKING IN SLENCE!
It was a completely new thing for me. I never thought of being silent. I thought well have fun talking about hundreds
of things. But all my dreams were shattered. I was fresh but little uncomfortable walking with the shoe. The first hour
was terrible. I couldnt stand the silence (but anyway I was talking to myself continuously).
I was moving at the speed of light (almost) and suddenly I saw a ray of light somewhere form the corner of the sphere,
corner? Does a sphere even have a corner? Such is my height of stupidity but the point is that sun was about to rise.
The sky was a painting created with a analogous colour scheme pink, purple, orange, red, etc...
As soon as we could see light all around, we took a break and finally threw out some words to each other. I burst a
Word-Bomb on my partner. The morning looked so beautiful as if I have seen it for the first time in my life. Actually, I
witnessed it after a long time. I could hear the voice of a peacock nearby. I could also hear some random birds
chirping in the background, far behind the trees. Sheetalbhai had promised his participation only till sunrise and he
left us with warm wishes for the journey. What was left was the The Trinity and I was glad that I opened the
Pandoras Box. We kept walking through the capital city of Gandhinagar towards north of Gujarat.
The sun was in his or her full glory. Shining bright and I realized we had been walking for almost 5 hours now. The city
was full of hustle-bustle and the traffic was in its full swing. Suddenly, I started getting uncomfortable. My speed was
getting slow. I noticed pain under few fingers of my feet. I didnt pay attention and like a true soldier, I was determined
to quit only if I am dead. Although, I have been practising trekking all my life but I never experienced continuous
walking like this. I knew there was something wrong
My fear was right BLISTERS!
Sitaram Ashram (near Gandhinagar) was a beautiful little ashram and a perfect for our break. I was dying to remove
the shoe and see the condition of blisters. The sage of the ashram offered us water to drink and directed us to the
washroom. My blisters had taken monstrous form and were quite painful. I got blisters on almost all the fingers. I was
not afraid but worried. The sage gave me his blessings and offered healing by a hand gesture. Just then, I realized
that he wasnt speaking at all. His peers told us that he is in the silence mode since many years. Maybe, it was his
way of meditation, communication or his atonement.
I distracted my mind and took a nice bath with cold water; in an almost open bathroom. The bathroom was raw room
made of bricks and had put my towel to act as a curtain. I also had frog to accompany me inside, and he witnessed
the act throughout; uncensored. Soon, were called for food Ram Roti, as they call it. Its actually nothing but charity
food. The ashram serves food and shelter for beggars, saints, homeless and pilgrims like us. This was our first food of
the journey and believe me, this simple food was one of the best food I had eaten in my life. We told our entire story to
the sage. He was listening eagerly and was quite impressed by our mission.
After eating, I almost forgot about my blisters and spent entire afternoon watching this cow eating and doing her
activities. It was a beautiful time with oneself. I tried to sleep but there were hell lot of mosquitoes that didnt allow any
of us to sleep.
Soon, it was late afternoon and I had a glass of cold butter milk and we stepped out of the ashram after taking the
sages blessings for the pilgrimage. We kept walking and walking, passing farms, highways, villages, water holes and
people. The evening was searching for us and soon we could feel the tiredness and decided to take a stop. But this
time, there was no suggestion like we got last time from Sheetalbhai. I had an idea!
I have been an ardent traveller, rather a low-impact traveller, all my life and I promptly suggested to the group that we
enter the nearest village and meet the village head to support us. We all agreed and met the village head of village
Gozaria. He was a kind person and made arrangement of food and shelter in the community hall.
This was my first night stay earned by begging; although for a cause. Back in the room, dear Vijaibhai turned into a
lover and a doctor. He held my foot and started treating my blisters in his own sweet way. He burst the blisters,
cleaned them, applied medicine and tied bandage to it. I had never seen such a act of compassion that this first day of
my walking pilgrimage showed me. The gift of day one - Food and Love - took my breath away
6
I felt like doing something different, and I shaved my head. I think it was the right thing to do ad it was too hot in the
middle of October. With the bald head, we decided to visit our Prime Ministers birth place. We came to know about an
old age home that his brother managed. We had a nice time out there. Although, his brother was not around, the
manager took us around and we met few elderly people. We told them about our mission and took their blessings. It
was kind of surprising that all of them had a quite positive approach towards our mission and encouraged us to do
more for the society.
We came back in the evening and after a nice dinner (in the hospital), went to bed; at least I thought so. There was
continuous disturbance form the ward. Little babies crying all around. It was an interesting experience. In the middle
of night, there was an urgent delivery and the maternity ward was upside-down. It was a chaos outside but order in
our mind. For the first time I realized the challenges and difficulties of the maternity ward staff.
In the morning, we left with a first-aid box gifted to us by the doctor. It was such a sweet gesture of love. The entire
hospital offered us wishes for the journey and we hit the road...with my blisters of course!
8
Can you believe? A young lady of 20 years or so, leaving her home against the will of her parents and joining a man
who was supposed to walk India for 25 years asking for land for rich landlords BOSS! This is Awesome!
She told us how she walked all around India in the 1950s and collected land from the rich land owners and gifted the
poor farmers. After that she came and established this school, all alone. It was a Man Oriented world then (and it is
still now) and all that she did to establish a school at that time was a real tough job. She never married and has given
all her life for education and service, selfless service. She is affirm believer in self reliance and had built a home of
mud and all eco-friendly products.
We had lots of fun in the evening and we came back just before the prayer time. After the prayer, the second-incommand of the living legend Jignaben requested to share some video and audio editing skills, so that she can
become self sufficient. I happily (and effectively) fulfilled her wish and gifted her a bit of my knowledge that will help
her become self reliant for life. After that we had good food, joyful chat with children and went to sleep.
All night I had been thinking that I missed an opportunity to put my feet on Ramilbens feet. I had never done this
before because I never felt this way for anyone else. But, this lady was something different. I had missed the
opportunity but I got a shock of my life in the morning. The living legend was waiting to wish us goodbye in the
morning. This was a nostalgic scene and I immediately put my head on her feet and took her blessings.
She had never done this before, I had never done this before!
10
He was so surprised and shocked upon learning this fact that someone really wants to meet them. Anyway, we
reached the venue somehow after an hour of asking and getting lost in the village. Upon reaching the location where
he told us to, he came running to meet us. It seem that he was coming to rescue us or something as were the focus
9
of all the shops around and for the first time, after many years, I felt like an alien from X999 galaxy; some 3.3 x 10
trillion light years away from our planet.
But, we met after sharing few calls of Where are you, I
am here types. He took us to his little home in a nearby
place. The place was filled with beautiful little homes and
colourful people. There was a beautiful woman washing
utensils, a (too) healthy stray dog barking at us, lots of
fine dust kissing our feet, little children running here and
there, mud walls displaying their tribal art, fragrance of
some pungent food and finally the gutter water flowing
here and there. A perfect picture of an Indian village!
They first served us a sweet dish with dry fruits and later
were served lentil and rice in the same utensil. It was so
tasty that I kept licking my finger. Were served chilled
Butter Milk and the women of the home was doing the
fan for us; like the women used to do to the King in olden
times. It was an AWESOME lunch and after that we
exchanged telephone numbers and offered our goodbyes. Our hero came to escort us to the outskirts of the village.
He also told us the way forward.
On the way forward, we had only one topic the hospitality of this untouchable. We the people have coined them a
name, keep them neglected and suppressed but there is so much love in their heart. There was no feeling of
inequality in their heart. Maybe, its us, the over educated and uncivilized lots who create differences because they are
simple folks with only love in their heart and glint their eyes. While, most of us in the cities have (almost) forgotten the
hospitality toward guests, these forbidden heroes are keeping the head of our culture high
11
We entered the prayer area that was a huge hall. The principal introduced us to all the students (who were already
waiting for us) and told us about the founder of the school and his story. It was mega-school spread in acres and
acres of land. But this is not it; the founder built 15 such schools in Gujarat. After the prayer, we had a good talk with
students and interacted with lot of them who stay in the premises.
Next morning, we got up early and sat for the prayers. Thereafter, I wanted to share the message of cleanliness with
the students. Actually, the students clean the premises everyday but I added some spice. I made a fictional character
called SAFAI-MAN that means something like a super-hero. It clicked with the children and they got crazy with this
idea. Suddenly, a stereotype boring activity became so interesting that almost all of them took part. Within no time, the
whole school wad clean and tidy.
Finally, after delicious breakfast, we had to leave. We addressed a small group of students and again were escorted
by this band till the gate. I dont like such special treatment much, but this was selfless and hence I also accepted it
with great love and happiness!
12
After sharing our good-byes, we started our journey to the top of the mountain. Luckily, we had a small boy to
accompany us. He took us though the forest, river, Greenland, bushes etc. We were quite slow and cautious and this
boy was like a rocket. Although, I have a good experience of trekking but this time I was thrown out of my ego by this
little tribal boy. Time and again, this trip never missed any opportunity to show me my real face.
Finally, after a rough and tough walk, we reached our destination village - Khatisitra.
13
This village - in a small district - was like a dream come true. Were welcomed in a beautiful tribal style by the family of
our host Mustukhan Sukh. Its a small hamlet deep inside the forest; not even on the map of India. It has been
completely forgotten by the Government and people. There is nothing that a rural village of our country has. It shares
border with the western state of Rajasthan and is very close to the popular hill station Mount Abu. The location on
the border is its biggest problem as well as advantage. But, the people are colourful and lovely!
Within no time, they made us so comfortable. Mustubhai
has done his graduation in rural studies and postgraduation in social service. He always wanted to serve
the rural community and in the young age of around 25,
when most of the youth are busy thinking to either go
abroad or earn lots of money and fame, he left his home
to work for the rural population of his state Gujarat. He
came to this area and adopted this village and started his
journey to serve these tribal.
In the start, he was not welcomed because people thought
that he is one of those people that comes there to do
nothing or destroy their peace. They condemned his stay.
But, he was very clear. He wanted to open a school there
and work for medical assistance. Even the forest
department threatened him several times because of his
home school he started in inside the forest.
There were many instances of quarrels but one day there was a medical urgency where he was of big help to the
villagers and this marked his victory in their hearts. He put his life in trouble to support a delivery case and saved both
the mother and child. This made him a hero overnight plus almost two years of hard work.
Now, he is the official village mentor and has been given a land by the tribal head to run his home and a school. There
was no education in the area and now, 60 students attend school to learn primary education.
14
He, along his wife Mumtazben, serves the tribal village and has written their life to the service of this village. The
forest department is now supporting him and encouraging more such work in the area. Not only this, he has also
started Eco-tourism in his tribal village to make community self reliable and lift them economically and socially.
What a wonderful contrast! In a world where our country is seeing
terrible hatred between two communities, especially Hindu and
Muslim, we see a Muslim man serving 100 Hindu families. In a
world where there is growing hatred for Muslim community and they
are being targeted as terrorists, there is this man who has given all
his luxuries of life and sitting deep in the forest and doing the work
that Government and all of us should have done.
One community cannot be terrorist, maybe a few from them but
definitely not all. We need to change our mindset and understand
the real meaning of Terrorism and people associated with it.
Muslims (real ones) round the globe are doing awesome work and
Mustubhai is the best example I have come across.
16
17
It was almost 20 days and more than 300 kilometres of walking, begging, enjoying, connecting, getting surprised,
experiencing acute compassion and witnessing miracles. Were quite close to the grand city Udaipur. We had just
taken a nice cold bath in a sanctorum. Although, that was the first place where we were asked money but later when
Yogeshbhai told the caretakers about our mission, they happily agreed to help us for free. This was the first time I
experienced a pinch in my heart but I took it in a positive way. I forgot about it in a while, after this great lunch they
offered us.
On the way, I met this man of substance. He was from a
very typical clan of the vagabonds. This clan belong to
the desert rich area of Rajasthan. There life is a travel
and they keep walking all around the country in search
for greener and better life. I had a little idea about them
but I never had an actual encounter with one.
But that day was something different. I started walking
next to him and ignited a conversation. The man, who
looked like the head of the family, was a level-headed
and a calm human. We exchanged our ideas of walking
and our mission. Our mission was inner and outer
transformation and his was searching a better
opportunity to live. At first, it looked like that we had
opposite missions but on close examination, I realized
that our missions were actually complementary; both
incomplete without each other.
I became stuffed with ego and told him that I had just completed walking more than 300 kilometres. He smiled at me
and informed me that they had completed walking more than 1,000 kilometres and they do like 5,000 kilometres every
year...all their life...with their family, cattle and stuff_____________________________________________________!
18
It was my last day and we were finally entered the beautiful city Udaipur. We had completed walking a little more
than 300 kilometres; without money. I was quite tired and feeling a little sick because of changing weather conditions
cool in the night and too hot in the day. On that, I had been drinking chilled buttermilk several times a day.
Our host was fixed. This one had already invited us even before we started. The host were the founders and directors
of one of the most unusual university of the world Swaraj University. The focus of this university is on self-designed
learning and on green entrepreneurship, including exploration of basic business skills within the context of ecological
sustainability and social justice. Its as much about developing the capacities and confidence we need to create and
pursue our unique learning paths as it is about strengthening the leadership capacity and right livelihood opportunities
in communities.
I was feeling feverish as soon as I entered the hosts residence. The host offered us a nice and hot green tea made of
magical herbs. It took my fever away for a while but it came back again. We were schedules to give a talk in the
university later in the night, but I knew my battery was down. I requested a room in a hotel and my partners escorted
me to a budget hotel in the city. I selected a hotel very close to the inter-city bus stop because I was anticipating that I
might have to leave through the night bus.
I took a room in that budget hotel and went outside to have a hot
water gargle. It was busy market place and I found a tea vendor. I
requested to give me hot water so that I can add salt and gargle.
He demanded Rupees 10!
For the first time I was being asked for money. I told him all about
our journey, the mission and hospitality we received. But, he cared
a shit about all that. He was only interested in his money. I was
very curios and a little bit angry but I think, I missed his point. He
had encountered many customers who ask for a glass of water and
never return them back. I was wrong because I didnt understand
him but instead I interpreted him. Good example of best and worst
behaviour; in me and others. This is also a good example how
things start changing as we get into urban life.
Anyway, that was surely my last day. I called up my family doctor and he prescribed me some pills. I took the pills and
slept for few hours. In the evening, I got up, informed Yogeshbhai and boarded the first bus for my home city. I very
well remember that night...it was ill, magical, hopeful, satisfying, sad, rough, tiring...and a Saturday
19
Paths are made by walking. The first question that hit me before even starting was that WTF happens by walking?
Does peace come by walking? Are you crazy? All these questions were not from strangers but from the people whom
I call family and friends. Very inspiring tough, but I couldnt answer them at that time. But, after I have completed the
journey I can at least take an attempt to answer them through my perspective. At first, it seemed an outer journey.
Walking many miles every day, passing through various villages, beg for food and shelter, and spread message of
peace. But, as days went, I realized what saint Kabir said hundreds of years ago. He quoted in one of his lyrical
poem:
When I began to search for the evil or wrongfulness, I couldnt find them outside. And when I looked inside my heart,
there was no one more evil and wrongful than myself.
Really, the good, bad, wrong and right was all inside me. It was not an outward journey but it was an inner one and
the juice or what you can say the conclusion was that:
When you walk your vision is 180 degree. One can see more, do more and learn more. It was by this walking that
Mahatma Gandhi connected people from entire country to stand up for freedom. It was by this walking that Acharya
Vinoba Bhave collected 4 million acres of land for poverty ridden farmers of India and it was by this walking that
Gautam Buddha became enlightened. Walking is a powerful tool. Looks simple but the ripples go far. Its not only a
good exercise for body but a good one for the soul too. Dont underestimate the potential of walking and grab an
opportunity to walk if you get it in this life.
20
FOOT
Travelogue of a Foot-soldier
21