TCHES OF KASHMIR & THE KASHMIRIS

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OF CALIFORNIA
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THE HAPPY VALLEY:

SKETCHES

Kashmir

&

the Kashmiris.

Wy WAKEFIELD,

M.D.,

AUTHOR OF

"OUR LIFE AND TRAVELS IN INDIA."

'

Who has not heard

With

its

Its temples,

As the

of the Vale of Cashmere,

roses, the brightest that earth ever gave,

and

grottos,

and fountains as

love-lighted eyes that

hang over

clear

their

wave ?"
Lalla Rookli.

WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS.

LONDON

SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON,

CROWN

BUILDINGS, FLEET STREET.

I8 79

(All rights reserved)

Co

THE DEAR COMPANION

OF MY WANDERINGS, BOTH IN INDIA AND KASHMIR,

TOs
IS

Folunw

AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED
BY HER HUSBAND,

PREFACE.
*

^ URING my sojourn in
of

Her

Forces,

India, in the service

Majesty, as a medical officer to the

I

had the opportunity of constantly

meeting and talking with numerous friends

and

From

travellers,

who had

their observations, joined to

from the somewhat scanty

country,

was

fairly well

of these pages before

the

Happy

what

visit

was

gathered

literature treating of that

acquainted with the subject

had the good fortune

to visit

Valley for myself, and verify the ideas

had formed from hearsay and books.

took place

Kashmir.

visited

in the

summer

short,

we

This event

of 1875, and although our

travelled

over great part of

the Valley, saw the objects of interest most worthy

of attention, and examined closely into the manners

and customs of the

inhabitants.

vi

Preface.

From what we

saw, and from that which

had

previously gathered, the following pages have been

written,

and

venture to lay them before

as being descriptive of
I

Kashmir and

my

readers

inhabitants.

its

do not do so with the object of providing any

intending tourist with a guide-book, for the descriptions of roads

enough

to

fulfil

and distances are not minute

that

purpose,

which,

already provided for in the reliable

Dr.

I nee,

when

in

to

which

indeed,

Hand-Book of

was myself much indebted

the country, and have

been equally so

My

during the progress of the present work.

design has rather been

to present to those

have never visited the country, and, perhaps,

never have

that

pleasure,

will

the history,

manners and customs of the inhabitants of

this

province; and a sketch of the various

places and objects of interest to be

the space of a short tour.

12,

who

a short and general

description of the routes to Srinagar

beautiful

is

CAMPDEN HOUSE ROAD, KENSINGTON,

June

$tA, 1879.

met with

in

CONTENTS.
CHAPTER

I.

PAGE

Introduction

The Punjab

and Celebrity

Its

The Vale

of Kashmir

Origin of the

Antiquity

Its

Name

Beauty

Wilson's

Opinion Vigne's Opinion Geographical Definition of Kashmir The Surrounding Mountains

Gap in the Ring of

Mountains

The Boundaries

Designation of his

Kashmir

of

Its

Ruler

Importance of the Situation

of the Jamoo and Kashmir Territories Form a Bulwark on
Northern Frontier
Invasion of India from the North

Kingdom

Probable Results of an Invasion

the

Happy

India

Valley

Their

Number

Passes leading to or from

Authorized Routes from

Country between Plains of India and Kashmir

District of the Outer Hills

The

Vegetation Its Inhabitants

The Dogras The Region of the Middle Mountains Its
Character Its Inhabitants The Paharis Concluding Re-

marks upon these Tracts

Its

CHAPTER

II.

The Seasons for Visiting the Valley

to the Valley
Hints to Travellers Supplies Servants Money Con-

The Routes

The Gujerat and Pir Panjal Route Called the

Road The Road to Bhimber Bhimber Its
Former Rulers March to Saidabad The Aditak RangeMogul Seraies March to Naoshera The Kaman Goshi
The View Marches to Changas and Rajaori Fording the
River Rajaori Thanna Mundi Baramgalla The Rutten
veyance

Imperial

Contents.

viii

PAGE

March to Poshiana Its Houses

The Pir Panjal Pass View from the Summit March to
Further Road to the Vale
Hirpur The Town of Shupiyan
Rdwal Pindi and Marri
The
at
Arrival
Ramoo
Srinagar
Route Hill Carts Marches to Daywal and Kohala The
pir_Wooden Bridges

Marches to Rara, Tinali,

Chatar Kalas
River Jhelam
Road from Poonch
Ooree
Chakoti
Hatti
and
Gharri,

Town

Naoshera

Ooramboo

Srinagar

Srinagar

of Baramula

By Water

to
25

CHAPTER

III.

The Encamping Ground for European

The Babu Courtesy shown by the Maharajah to
The British Officials in Kashmir The Takt-iVisitors
Stone Temple on its Summit
Its Legend
Suliman
of
the
View
Panoramic
City and the Valley The Dal Lake
Mountains surrounding the Valley The River Jhelam
The Land in the Centre of the Valley The Kareewahs

Arrival at Srinagar
Visitors

European Character of the Scenery Physical History of

Formerly a Lake Volcanic Agencies in its

the Valley

Evidences of former Lacustrine Condition of

Formation
Valley

The Desiccation

Formation of Kareewahs

of the

Desiccation

Vigne's Theory
Valley Legend respecting
Wilson's
of its Desiccation
Early History of Kashmir
Essay on the Hindu History of Kashmir Its Native Kings
its

Rulers The Chakk Family The Great

Afghan Rulers Ranjit Singh Decline of the
Prosperity of Kashmir England's Opportunity for its Acquisition
What might have followed Its present Ruler Form
Its

Mohammedan

Moguls

of

Its

Government

in

Kashmir

CHAPTER
Srinagar, the Capital of

Kashmir

Srinagar the Venice of the East

Inhabitants

Houses

The

in the

City Bridges
City

...

IV.

Its Situation

Want

The Jhelam

of Cleanliness in the

General Aspect of the City

Population of the Valley

Its

In-

Beauty of the Women Character

and Habits of the Kashmiris The Hindus The Moham-

habitants

The Kashmiris

54

Contents.

ix
PAGE

Gipsies

Caste

Batal

Dress of the Kashmiris

Language of the Kashmiris

Hair

The

The Hanjis

medans

of the

Origin

Peculiar Style of Dressing

The Literature of Kashmir

Its Public Buildings

The Boats of
Life in Srinagar
Climate of the Valley
Palace of the Maharajah
The Ameeri Kadal

Visit to the City

the Country

Summer

Scene on the Banks of the River

Soul of Gulab Singh

Transmigration of the
Fish and Fishing in Kashmir
.

CHAPTER

91

V.

The Embankment of the River The Sher Garhi Fort and

Palace The Kashmirian Army Family of the Maharajah
The Sunt-i-Kul Canal The Kut-i-Kul Canal The Mar
Canal The Habba Kadal The Fati Kadal
The Shah
Hamadan Musjid Story of its Founder The Bagh-iThe Zaina Kadal The Badshah The
Dilawur Khan
The
Mint
The
Coinage of Kashmir
Jumma Musjid
New Mosque Evidences of former Hindu Temples The
Naga or Snake Worship Buddhism
Religion of Kashmir
Jainism Brahmanism Mohammedanism Forcible Conversion of Natives of the Valley

of the Gipsies

Naya Kadal
Bagh Office
City

Its Effect

of Executioner

Termination of Trip through

CHAPTER
The Bazaars

on the Origin

The Alii Kadal The Bulbul Lankar The

The Suffa Kadal The Eedgah The Noor-

of Srinagar

Occurrence of Famines

Cheapness of Food

Land

in

Wine

in the Valley

Kashmir

in

The

VI.

Natural Products of the Valley

Shortcomings of the Government

Calculation as to Value of

Kashmir
Fruits

and Vegetables of Kashmir

Trees and Flowering

Growth of Hops

Sacredness of the
Cattle in the Valley
Diet of Visitors in the Valley The Arts and Manufactures of Kashmir The Kashmir Shawls Antiquity of
Plants in Kashmir

Cow
the

Shawl

Varieties

of Shawls

Pushmeena Manufacture of
The Weavers The Washing

The Kashmir Goat

The Weaving
Shawls The Jewellery

the Shawls
of the

117

Contents.

PAGE

Kashmir Papier-mach^ Work Prices of Various Articles

Trade and Commerce of Kashmir The Dal Lake Aquatic
Plants The Lotus The Singhara Plant Floating Gardens

of

the Lake Hazratbal

Objects of Interest on
RelicFairs or Festivals The Feast of Roses

CHAPTER

Moslem

.134

VII.

The Garden of Bliss The Silver Island The Golden Island

The Nishat Bagh The Shalimar Garden Invitation to a
Launch of a Steamboat Memorable Day in the
Yete
History of Kashmir

Excitement of the Inhabitants of the

The Launch A MishapThe Illumination of the

Shalimar Its Effect A Nautch The Dinner Return to
our Quarters The Harri Parbat Fort The Great and Small
Parade Grounds The Gun Factory The Ram Bagh The
Scene on the Lake

Valley

Proceed to the Shalimar Garden

Game
Game

of Polo

Antiquity of the Game Prevalence of the

A Game of Polo at Srinagar The Play

in Baltistan

Concluding Ceremonies of the

Game

CHAPTER

159

VIII.

Tour of the Valley Objects of Interest in the North-western

Portion of Kashmir Departure from Srinagar Our Course
down the River Sunnybawan Shadipore Hindu Fanatics

The Sind River

Ladakh Road

Ganderbal

The Sind

Valley

The

Wangat Ruins at Wangat

The Haramuk Mountain The Gungabal Lake Sonamarg,
or Golden Meadow The Noroo Canal The Manasbal Lake
The Lakes of Kashmir Canal leading to Manasbal Lake
A Mosquito Incident Fleas in Kashmir Our Anguish
Beautiful Scene on the Lake The Lake and its Surroundings
Scene at Sunset A Hindu Fakir digging his own Grave
Zozila Pass

Our Remarks

His Delight Sumbal Continue our Way

Hajan The Woolar Lake Bandipoor The Gales on
The Lanka Hill of Shakuradin Course of the
the Lake

Jhelam

Sopoor

177

Contents.

CHAPTER

xi

IX.
PAGE

The Road

to Lalpoor

The Lolab

Mulberry Trees

Kangri

Silk-producing Insects

SjlkCultivation in the Valley

Bears in Kashmir Their Carnivo-

Game

Varieties of

Irbus Propensities

The

Kashmir Villages

in the Valley

Sport

The Tiger Cat The Wild Dog The Barasing

The Musk-deer The Marker The Khakur The Surrow
The Ibex Their Habitats Wild Fowl in the Valley
Singing Birds Birds of Prey Eagles Hawks Monkeys
in

Kashmir

No Monkeys or

Hares

Reason of

their

Hares found

CHAPTER
Road to Gulmarg
or

'

Barra Kountra

Mountain of Flowers

Log-houses

202

X.

Babamirishi

'

European

The Gulmarg,

Visitors to

Gulmarg

Their Construction

Their Advantages Their

View of the Valley from Gulmarg The Wet

Disadvantages
Season Its Discomfort

on the Marg
on the Marg

Probable

in the Valley

The Alpine Hare

Absence

Apathy

The

of

Hindu Servants

Flowers and Ferns

Our Church

Life

Insect Life

Marg The Guluwans, or HorseDescendants of the Chakk Family Their Habits

keepers
and Mode of Life Snakes in Kashmir Effects of the
Rarefied Air Departure from Gulmarg Road to Srinagar
The Zearat of a Rishi The Rishis of Kashmir Pattan
'

Killan

'

Conclusion of Tour in Western Part of Kashmir

CHAPTER XL
The Eastern Portion
by Doongah

of Kashmir

Pandritan

Objects of Interest
at Pandritan

Temple

Journey

Town

of

Cultivation of

The_Saffron-grounds at Pampoor
the Crocus satiims Saffron Its tlses Quantity grown in
Ironworks in Kashmir
Mineral Springs
Shar
Valley

Pampoor

Ladoo
Avantipore
Temple at Payech
of
the Veshau River Kanbal Town
Junction
Bijbehara
The Anat Nag
of Islamabad
Its former Greatness
Ruins

at

Sacred Trout

The Spring

of

Bawan

Its

Legend

Caves

218

Contents.

xii

PAGE

Bhomjoo The Liddar Valley Sacred Cave of Ambernath Legend of the Cave Road to the Cave The Sheesha
Nag Description of the Cave Pilgrimage to Ambernath
Hindu Ceremony at the Cave Vigne's Description and
of

Remarks

CHAPTER
The Ruins of Martand Temple of
The Pandus Vigne's Description
Temple

Its

Exterior

...

XII.

the

Sun

Its

Antiquity

of the Architecture of the

Its Interior

Effects of Earthquakes

Peculiarities observed in the Architecture of old

Kashmir

234

Ruins in

The Wardwan Valley The

The Atchibal Spring The Bringh

Vigne's Opinion

Springs of Kashmir
River Identity of River and Spring Bernier's Description
of Atchibal The Water of the Spring The Vernag Spring

Road to Vernag Shdngus Dancing Girls of Shdngus

The Nowboog Valley The Tansan Bridge The Kookar
Nag The Shahabad Valley The Spring of Vernag Source
of the Jhelam
The Garden of the Spring The Mogul
Emperor Jehangir Nur Mehal, the Light of the Palace
Her Parentage The Rozloo Valley The Veshau River Its
Source The Konsa Nag Cataract of Haribal Road to
Shupiyan Conclusion of Tour Concluding Remarks
.

253

THE HAPPY VALLEY.

CHAPTER
The Punjab

Introduction

The Vale

I.

of Kashmir

Origin of the

Its

Beauty and

Name

Wilson's Opinion
Celebrity
Antiquity
Definition
of
Kashmir
The SurVigne's Opinion Geographical
rounding Mountains Gap in the Ring of Mountains The BounIts

of Kashmir
Its Ruler
Designation of his Kingdom
Importance of the Situation of the Jamoo and Kashmir Territories
Form a Bulwark on Northern Frontier Invasion of India from

daries

the North

Probable Results of an Invasion

Passes leading to or

from the Happy Valley Their Number Authorized Routes from

India Country between Plains of India and Kashmir The District
of the Outer Hills
Its Vegetation
Its Inhabitants
The Dogras
The Region of the Middle Mountains Its Character Its Inhabitants
The Paharis Concluding Remarks upon these Tracts.

glancing at the

of Asia,

we

map

of the great continent

find in the north-west of

dustan that division of our Empire

East termed the Punjab,

the five

rivers

"
;

watered by the Indus and

"

Hin-

in the

the country of

an extensive territory
its

great afHuents

Jhelam, Chenab, Ravi, Beas, and Sutlej

the

the widest

expanse of the great plains of India, and a British

The Happy

Valley.

possession since the year 1849, which saw the final

This extensive

downfall of the Sikh power.

tory

bounded on the west by the Suliman mounon the east and south-east by the river

is

tains

terri-

and on the north by the Himalayas, the

most elevated and stupendous mountain system in
Sutlej

the world.

Their ranges of snowy and rugged

peaks, towering above the high table-land of Tibet

a giant mountain chain of an average width of

50

and extending in length for over 1 200 miles

along the flat and fertile plains of our Eastern
form a natural and formidable boundary
empire
miles,

to these territories

however

to the

on their northern

side.

northernmost portion of

mense mountain range that

larly to draw the attention of

It

this

is

im-

wish more particu-

my

readers

for here,

beyond the rugged ridges that skirt the Punjab,

whose snow-clad peaks are discernible by the
traveller long before his arrival at their base, lies

the country

we

are about to visit

Vale of Kashmir, the

'

Happy

the far-famed

Valley,' the scene of

the poet Moore's inimitable Lalla Rookh.

And Kashmir

a theme well worthy of a poet.

Nowhere in Asia, nor even perhaps in the remaining
quarters of the globe, can the parallel be found of
is

such an earthly paradise

a paradise

in

itself

as

Situation of Kashmir.

formed by Nature, but made doubly beautiful by

For these are bare, rugged, and
its surroundings.
frowning rocks, a wilderness of crags and mountains,

summits tower to the sky in their cold

and barren grandeur a solitary and uninhabitable

whose

lofty

Yet

waste.

in the

midst of this scene of unutter-

able desolation there lies spread out a wide expanse

of verdant plain, a smiling valley, a veritable jewel
in Nature's

lasting
to

its

own

setting of frightful precipices, ever-

snows, vast glaciers, which, while adding

beauty by the contrast, serve also as

of the higher regions that surround

its

pro-

Shielded from the cold and piercing blasts

tection.

it is

its

on the north,

it

equally protected by the girdling mountains on

other sides, whilst

elevation places

its

it

beyond

the reach of the fiery heat of India's sunny plains

and thus

it

exhibits, in the midst of a

wide waste of

desolation, a scene of almost constant verdure

perpetual spring.

It

is

little

it

should enjoy the celebrity to which

and

its

and

surprising therefore

that this terrestrial paradise, as

in all civilized countries,

is
it

often called,

has attained

name have become

associated with a high degree of picturesque beauty,

something
For, as

over

distinctive,

Vigne

the

if

not unique in character.

justly remarks,

sublime,

"

Softness mantling

snugness generally, elsewhere

B 2

The Happy

Valley.

incompatible with extent, are the prevailing characteristics of

the scenery of Kashmir, and verdure and

the forest appear to have deserted the countries on

the northward in order to embellish the slopes from

snowy mountains, give

plains, and combine with
its

render

it

applied to

additional richness to
its

delightful climate to

not unworthy of the

in

it

"

'

its

rhyming epithets

the East of
without an equal

Kashmir-bi-nuzir

Kashmir-Junat-puzir

Apart however from

equal to Paradise.'

"

acknowledged claims to
picturesque beauty, Kashmir has others no less important, and equally interesting alike to the scholar,
its

and the prospect-hunter

for its
recorded claim to be considered a place of the

the

antiquary,

highest antiquity

will,

am

sure,

be conceded by

any who have studied its history, and have seen or

heard of the noble ruins, relics of past days, standing
-yet in various parts of the Valley, testifying alike to
its

former greatness and prosperity.

coeval

with the flood,

its

history

With
is

traditions

probably as

ancient as any other extant, excepting always that

of the Old Testament.

Kashmir

And while

mention

is

made

Maha-Barat and other early

Sanscrit works of the Hindus, as a country of eminent
of

in

the

kings and learned men,

it

possesses

its

own

historical

Origin of Name.
records in

a work entitled the Rajataringini, or

Raj Tarung,

as the natives call

earlier dynasties,

its

the history of

it,

probably written by different

authors and at different periods, but generally ac-

knowledged by Oriental scholars to be the only

Eastern history of any antiquity, and the only early
Sanscrit composition extant to which such a

can be properly applied.

Again,

its

title

very situation

with regard to the neighbouring countries

is

sufficient

any one, if further proof were needed,

must have been a notable place at a very

to convince
that

it

early period in the world's history.

beauty, of

its

loveliness of

its

its

The fame

fruitfulness, of its wine,

women, must,

at

of

and of the

a very

distant

have spread among the inhabitants of Central

Asia and other regions further north.
And, on its

period,

other border, the people dwelling on the arid plains

of Hindustan, descendants of the great
the

same

Aryan

race,

original stock also of the Kashmiris,

must

soon, with their superstitious regard for places in

any way remarkable as sacred to one or other of

their gods, have learned to look upon Kashmir as a
holy place, or paradise, a feeling that

amongst

India's

teeming

present day alike by

The very origin

millions,

still

holds good

being shared at the

Mohammedans and Hindus.

of the

name

of this noble province

The Happy

Valley.

wrapped in mystery, and the derivation of the

word Kashmir, or Cashmere, as it is indifferently
is

has been the subject of

spelt,

much

speculation,

carrying us back to the very earliest days in the

of the

history

Those

world.

familiar

with the

geography of the East must have remarked that the

words Kush and Kash are of frequent occurrence in
the

but

names of
in

places,

and that not only

in

one

locality,

the various countries that together form the

We

Eastern hemisphere.

Mesopotamia

and the

find

Kush

Biblical

in

Arabia and

term Kush was

undoubtedly applied to that country known to the

ancients as Ethiopia, the land of dark men,' the
'

present Nubia, Abyssinia, and adjacent parts.

Kash, as the
Central Asia

name

initial syllable

of Kashgar, occurs in

and the Hindu Kush, or Koosh,

is

the

of the range of mountains, the westward con-

tinuation of the Himalayas, separating Afghanistan

on the south from Turkestan on the north

while

Kushi again was the ancient name of that holy city

in Hindustan now known as Benares.
'The repetition of the

term

in so

many different

places naturally

leads to the inference that these various

some common

origin

names have

and numerous and varied are

the arguments set forth by the different Oriental

scholars

who have

interested

themselves on the

Vigne 's Theory.

subject, as to the source of its derivation.

Confining

more immediately under

Professor H. H. Wilson is of opinion

ourselves to the country

our notice,
that the

word Kashmir

is

derived from Kashuf-mir,

the country of Kashuf, the

Mohammedan

term for

Kusyapa of Hindu history, the reputed grandson of

Brahma, through whose instrumentality, at the com-

mand
lake,

of Solomon, the Valley, then existing as a large

was drained of

its

waters.

earliest

Kashmirian legends, and

noticed

when

This
will

is

one of the

be more

fully

treating of the geology of the Vale.

Another derivation given is that from the Hindu

word Kasyapa-pur 'pur' or 'poor' being a common ending to Indian names of places, signifying
'town' or 'city' and which, pronounced Kashup-pur,

might have become in course of time converted

Kashamur and Kashmir.

into

The Emperor Baber in his Memoirs mentions the

"
The hill country along the upper
subject, and says,
course of the Sind or Indus was formerly inhabited

by a race of men
that

and he conjectures
the country of Kashmir was so called as being
called Kas,"

the country of a people of that name.

of the Valley itself pronounce
rather than Kashmir,
fact

and

its

name

The
as

natives

Kushmir

have remarked the same

amongst the inhabitants of India; and Vigne,

The Happy

probably

led

this

by

Valley.

peculiarity,

ingenious theory, which he states

probable origin of the name,

West at all, and which

to other places in

the

if

imagine

is

came from the

equally applicable

East with the same or a

It is as follows

similar prefix.

it

propounds an
to be a not im-

"
:

Cush was the son

Ham, and grandson of Noah (Genesis x.) Cush

he began to be mighty upon the
begat Nimrod
of

Nimrod

earth."

is

supposed to be identical with

whose kingdom was Babel,

i.e.,
Babylon, whence his name and power, and
probably his descendants, must have spread over
Belus, the beginning of

different countries to the eastward.

The

general reader, however,

am

sure will not

care to pursue such an abstruse subject any further

as authorities

prove on

all

differ,

and enough has been

hands the antiquity of the name, and

therefore to certify the

We

itself.

more

said to

will,

same

fact for the

country

consequently, proceed to consider

particularly the

Happy

Valley and

tants in their present condition,

its

inhabi-

commencing with a

brief outline sketch of the country itself

its

geo-

graphical situation and surroundings, and the passes

or routes by which ingress or egress are obtained.

Kashmir may be defined

for the

as a country consisting

most part of a comparatively

level tract of

The Mountain Barrier.

wide vale or

land, a

plain,

embedded and

of the mountain mass of the great

in that portion

Himalayan chain which

the

skirts

north-western

border of Hindustan, stretching between

and 34 35' N., and

is

set high

long. 74

entirely surrounded

10'

lat.

33

15'

and 75 40' E.

It

by ranges of

this

stupendous

forming one large enclosed valley, divided

into two unequal portions by the river Jhelam, which

chain

traverses

entire

its

and having numerous

opening into it on every side

length,

glens or minor valleys,

from the lower portion of the

which

is

it

oblong,

environed.

lofty

In form

north-west and

lying

rocky wall by

it

is

irregularly

south-east

about

ninety miles in length, with a width of twenty miles

or even less at

its

narrowest, to twenty-five miles

at its .broadest part;

miles,

with an area of 4,500 square

and an average height of 5,200

the sea level.

An

volume

this

entirely

encloses this secluded region.

in height,

and also

side

we

find

the

Pir

Panjal,

above

irregular oval ring of mountains

as will be seen on reference to the

panying

feet

in

appearance.

map accom-

surrounds

Their ridges vary

On

the southern

that portion of the range

separating

the

and

known

as

Valley from the

Punjab, with peaks varying in height from 8,000

to 15,000 feet, the sides of

which are covered with

The Happy

io

dense

forests,

and

their

Valley.

summits crowned

On

with pure and glistening snow.

side the mountains are

some

cases even

appearance

still

winter

the northern

higher, approaching in

18,000 feet; bare and rugged in

peaks being covered with

their loftiest

in

a perpetual snow-cap.

To

all

appearance,

when

surveyed from any eminence, the rocky walls of

this

prisoned valley appear to be unbroken and undivided.

But such
one only,

is

There

not the case.

in the

rocky barrier.

one gap, and

is

This

is

at the north-

west end, where the river Jhelam, the Hydaspes of

the Greeks, after collecting the drainage waters of

by a
narrow opening near the town of Baramula, and
proceeds on its troubled course to become finally a

the

hills

that surround the Valley, flows out

deep and placid stream, as one of the

tributaries of the

As

regards

Kashmir

is

its

Indus

in the

five great

Punjab.

relation to surrounding countries,

bounded north by Astor, Iskardo, and

other districts of Little Tibet

Zanskar, and Ladak

east

by Dras, Sooroo,

south by Poonch, Naoshera,

Kishtawar, Badrawar, and

Jamoo

mountain states

lying on the borders of the British districts of Jhelam,

Gujerat, and Sialkote, in the Punjab

Khaghan, and the

and Rawal Pindi.

districts

and west by
under our rule of Hazara
;

All these districts, excepting of

Jamoo and Kashmir.

1 1

course those mentioned as belonging to the British

power, form together a kingdom either directly or

indirectly
title

under the rule of one

known by

the

Jamoo and Kashmir, one of

and bound to us, if not from affec-

of the Maharajah of

our feudatories,

undoubtedly by the

tion,
is

ruler,

'

a veritable

king of the mountains

parts,

inhabited

and even of

races,

such

for of

;'

does his kingdom for the most part consist

several

He

ties of self-interest.

and

its

by peoples of

different

different faiths, possess

no bond

of cohesion other than the fact of his rule, and no

name

simple
older

maps

to
it

is

by the term
while the more modern

usually designated

Golab Singh's Dominions

group the various parts into one, and apply to

title

of Kashmir, a

country of which

which

lies

On

embrace the whole dominion.

name derived from

we

are

in its midst.

more
This

it

the far-famed

directly treating,
is

the

and

a fact apt to be

misleading to any one not thoroughly conversant

with the geography and history of this part of the

Golab Singh has passed over to the great

while the
majority, and his son rules in his stead
designation of Kashmir should strictly be applied
world

for

only to

the Valley

but as yet no more

fitting

designation has been employed, although a recent

author has suggested and adopted in his description

The Happy

12

Valley.

of these countries the more comprehensive term,

considered in

relation to the

Jamoo and Kashmir

In

its

ruler's

title,

of the

Territories.

relations to our rule in India the position

of this kingdom,

its

physical

and other

characters,

have an importance which its extent and general

barrenness would scarcely warrant for it constitutes
;

a formidable defence, a rocky bulwark to our empire

on

northern frontier, a natural obstacle against

its

any foe proceeding from that

which is said to be strengthened

quarter,
still

and one

further at the

present time by the acquisition to the Maharajah,

with the consent of our government, of the territory

lying a

little

to the north-west,

The

of Turkestan.

on the very borders

passes of this

territory

the

Maharajah has been instructed to guard during the

course of our present hostilities with Afghanistan,*
not so

much

against this

enemy

to our peace as to

meet any eventuality which may arise, even at the

most distant points on our frontier, in connection
with the effacement of the Khanates of Central

Asia

by that grasping, unscrupulous,

and

half-

European power, our hereditary foe in the

East, whose hitherto costly and barren conquests in

civilized

the direction of our Indian empire, to the borders of

*

Now

satisfactorily concluded.

Strength as a Frontier.

13

which they are rapidly approaching, can bear but one

interpretation

the fulfilment of the dream of an am-

Were

bition cherished for ages past.

once carried

it

out,

would mean

these designs

for us a surrender

of the brightest jewel of our Imperial diadem of

state

and

for the victors, its possession

for the mild

of Hindustan,

and enjoyment

Hindu and the other

who

inhabitants

are no less directly concerned,

the substitution of the just and impartial rule of

Empress-Queen for the so-called benign and

fatherly rule of the White Czar, aided and enforced
their

by Cossack whips and other Tartar

the frontier of these territories

is

devices.

But

satisfactory for

defensive purposes, and the river Indus supplements

the great ranges of mountains, whose passes are

long and

difficult to traverse,

few

in

number, covered

with snow for the greater part of the year, and

whose
is

ruler,

the Maharajah of

our friend and

to invade India
profitless

hostile

faithful ally.

on

this side

undertaking

force

Jamoo and Kashmir,

Hence I opine that
would be a wild and

and granted even that a

advanced through these mountains,

and occupied the

fertile

which would afford

them

Valley of Kashmir
supplies,

it

itself,

would prove a

precarious situation, unless they immediately passed

out thence in sufficient strength to ensure a decisive

The Happy

14

Valley.

victory over our troops on the adjacent plains of

This would be

the Punjab.

difficult

for

would

it

be only feasible for a lightly -equipped force to

The

traverse these rough mountain parts.

the Vale

to

glorious

are

few

more probably complete defeat

Snow would in all likeliportion.

victory,

would be

their

hood cut

off their

come

paths

number, and instead of

in

retreat

by the way they had

while over the less lofty ridges of the ranges

border could the offended

that skirt our

legions cross, and in their might and

whelm and crush them

British

power over-

before aid or succour could

arrive from the North.

To return,

however, to Kashmir, by which

both here and elsewhere

the

throughout

volume, to imply the Valley

itself

only

for

mean,
entire

although

the other parts of the country which go to form

the

entire

known by
traveller,

territory,

often,

however wrongly,

name, are deeply interesting to the

this
I

so

did not myself visit them, and

information as

such

have gathered regarding them can

have but incidental reference.

We

now come

to

consider the passes or routes by which ingress or

egress to the Vale from or to surrounding parts
is

obtained.

Abu

The

well

known

Fazl, the minister of the great

native

historian,

monarch Akbar,

Passes into the Valley.

who
his

has been termed the Oriental Sully, states

work on Kashmir, which he

in

several times visited

no

in the train of his master, that there are

than

less

twenty-six passes leading into the Valley, and that

an active mountaineer could enter

than by the

places

describes as
need,

many

regular

routes

as twenty.

in

it

many

other

while Vigne

There

be no

will

however, to enumerate the whole number,

half of

them being but

the following

Handbook,

will

be

passes

principal

greater

list,

if

ever used

taken from Dr.

sufficient,

that are

Ince's

giving as

open

it

for the

and

reliable

does the

whole or

some of course being

winter by the snow that falls in the higher

part

closed in

rarely

of the

year,

regions.

PRINCIPAL PASSES INTO THE KASHMIR VALLEY.

Situation.

The Happy

The

four

first

of these are the passes leading

the Valley from

into

Valley.

the

plains

of

therefore only concern us at present

lead to or from countries that

consequently do not come within

And

furthermore,

that

it is

the remainder

did not

my

They

visit,

and

present design.

only upon the two

need dwell at length.

which

India,

first

named

are the routes

by which I passed in and out of the country, and

which would surely be selected by any traveller
from

India to

the Valley, the

no greater advantages

offering

leading from Jamoo,

Ferozepore route
while the Banihal,

may be termed

a private road,

being forbidden to the ordinary wayfarer, and kept

open

the sole use of the

for

family,

whose custom

it is

first

roads from India

into four,
routes,

it

his

to visit yearly the

Valley, the fairest part of his

two

Maharajah and

Happy
whole dominion. The

may

again be subdivided

and these are the only authorized or public

being forbidden to travel by any other

unless under special permission obtained from the

Supreme Government.
1.

The

They

are as follows

Gujerat and Pir Panjal Route.

3.

The Gujerat and Poonch Route.

The Rawal Pindi and Marri Route.

4.

The Rawal

2.

These routes

Pindi and Abbottabad Route.

will all

be found on the

map

that

The Border Country.

this

accompanies

At the

volume, as also

the Appendix.

in

even of being thought a

risk

17

wearisome,

trifle

must now proceed to give a short description of

the two principal, on account of their own interest,
I

and as a prelude

to

delights of the Valley

Poonch route

scenery and

romantic

the

On

itself.

the Gujerat and

need not dwell, as

it

is

road merely, and taken only as a rule

Panjal Pass
to

is

interest,

and

road, which

rarely used,

if

The same

blocked by snow.

the Abbottabad

a branch
the Pir
applies

of very

is

little

except by officers from

that or other frontier stations in the Punjab.

But before proceeding

let

us take a cursory glance

at the country that they traverse,

and other

details

its

inhabitants,

connected therewith, and the neces-

sary arrangements that must be effected to insure

the safety and comfort of the traveller on his long

As

and mountainous march.

Valley of Kashmir
tains,

of

those on

the

Pir

its

Panjal,

is

already stated, the

entirely encircled

by moun-

southern side being the range

separating

it

from our

own

Indian possessions, the plains of the Punjab, over

which we must make our way

goal

of our journey.

an intermediate

order to reach the

Before arriving, however,

at the loftiest heights of this

is

in

district,

mountain mass, there

rough and rugged

in

The Happy

character,

Valley.

inhabited,

sparsely

poorly cultivated

small patches of land only being

and with scrub

fit

for tillage

and bare rock as

forest

prominent features. To
by an author to whom I

this tract

am much

its

has been applied,

indebted for the

following remarks, the appropriate term of

Outer Hills

and

;'

from

the

It

and

its

'

The Regions

in

its

physical

This

people.

on the Gujerat and

others

The

of the Middle

an interesting country, alike

is

difference

vegetation,

'

to that further towards the higher

parts of the mountain,

Mountains.'"

more

Pir

Panjal

is

features,

its

most marked

route

than

the

named, excepting, of course, the Banihal

Marri, the starting-point of the so-called road lying

on ground corresponding in character to the second

tract, and with a very small space of the first-named
separating

it

from the plains of the Punjab, the road

to the

Vale passing for the greater part of the way

up the

valley of the Jhelam.

Let us

first

take the district of the Outer Hills,

so called, the skirts of the mountain mass of the

Himalayas, which

edges

its

with

a greater

or less width

course along their entire length, and in

which concern us chiefly has an

extent of 150 miles, with a width varying from

the

territories

* The Northern Barrier

of India.

F.

DREW.

The Outer

Hills.

19

fourteen to thirty-six miles, in a line drawn from the

river

Ravi on the east to the Jhelam on the west.

These

hills

slope up very gradually from the plains,

continuing to a height of nearly 2,000 feet

sides clothed with forests of small

trees,

their

for the

most part of the acacia species, with various shrubs

as an undergrowth
and then fall a little,

constituting

for several miles a

rough broken

deemed only -by an

occasional small valley or 'dun.'

On

tract of land re-

these favoured spots are the towns and villages

of the inhabitants,

and the

cultivated ground,

which

bears crops similar to those obtained in the northern

parts of India

the climate and general vegetation

of the belt being also pretty nearly of the

character.

It

is,

same

however, to the inhabitants

of

these parts that the greatest interest attaches, for

among

these

hills live

the race of

men

called Dogra,

headed by the Maharajah of Jamoo and Kashmir,

himself of the

whole of the

same stock

the ruling class over the

territories that

comprise the so-called

Kashmir kingdom and here also is to be found the

capital town of Jamoo, for many years the chief
head-quarters of the members of their royal line.
;

branch of the Aryans, and settling

in the hills

that skirt the Punjab, while their brethren

further

and colonized the greater part of

c 2

went

still

India, they

The Happy

2O

Valley.

approach, in appearance, character, and habits, the

Hindus

modified of course

isolated position,

of

they

much

of a

may be termed

fairer

Sikh

religion,

or

its

very muscular, active

which

for their size,

faith,

the higher

complexion than the Hindus of the

than that of Europeans.

manical

among

mode

decidedly good-looking,

plains, slim-made, and, if not

and strong

somewhat

their

their naturally altered

In appearance, especially

life.

classes,

and

by

is

They

considerably less

profess the Brah-

heterodox form known as the

and are divided into castes

in nearly

same way as the Hindus generally out of

which number the Brahman and the Rajput dithe

The

visions are the principal.

highest caste, the

stan

same

first-named

the

as in other parts of Hindu-

but in these quarters they are more numerous,

perhaps, and

more

inclined to take to various occu-

pations, other than learning

devotion

always are

and combined

religious

while the Rajputs are the same as they

the traditional aristocratic class, supply-

ing both warriors and rulers to the state.

are various other castes, chiefly confined to
following one occupation
people,

and even

outcasts,

There

members

and there are low-caste

among them,

as in the

Without entering into this subject further,

may remark that the despised classes differ in

plains.
I

is

The Middle Mountains.

21

being darker, and have other characters

colour,

distinguishing

them from the higher

ones, and are

supposed to be descendants of the original noninhabitants of these

Aryan

These observa-

hills.

apply more directly to that portion of the

tions

Outer Hills lying between the Ravi on the east

and the Chenab river. Further west, between this

boundary and the Jhelam, a somewhat

found, professing the

Mohammedan

race

is

who

are often termed Chibhalis

are not very strong in their

different
religion,

but, as a rule, they

faith,

and

differ little in

whom they are

Mohammedan form of

other respects from the Dogras, of

a branch, converted to the

in years

worship

We

gone

now come

past.

to the

Mountains, on the road to

Region of the Middle

the Valley, and which,

on the same authority already quoted,

these provinces

is

given

in

as including the country around

Bhadarwah, Kishtwar, Ramban, Rajaori, and Poonch,

the

two

last

places

that

are passed on the Pir

Panjal route, and Muzafarabad, near to the

Pindi and Marri road.

this tract,

which

is

The whole

Rawal

of the area of

about forty miles in width on

the east, lessening to a third of that distance about

its

centre,

and spreading out again

wards the north-east,

is

occupied by

indefinitely tohills,

approach-

The Happy

22

Valley.

ing sometimes to the height of even

12,000

feet,

with deep hollows formed by the rivers that ramify

in these

mountain masses, and which again have a

number

of valleys spreading out in every direction

from

their

closely

The
ter

but

courses,

hemmed

small

all

in

and surrounded by rocky

in,

and

size,

walls.

height of this region gives a different characto the vegetation,

the Outer Hills.

compared with that of

as

Forests of Himalayan oak, of

pine, spruce, silver

and deodar are

fir,

the slopes of the mountains

to

be seen on

while the root and

grain crops are scanty, both from the nature of the

ground and climate

over this tract, though
;

just

described.

The

for in

winter snow

falls

all

rarely, if ever, in the district

inhabitants

of

the

Middle

Mountains are again very different to the Dogras,

or to other Hindus generally, although followers
of the

same

excepting to the north-west,

religion,

where Mohammedanism

is

followed, the people of

that locality having been already described under

the head of Chibhalis.

More

of this tract the people

to the eastern portion

have remained Hindu

in

faith,

manners, and customs, retaining caste and

other

peculiarities

dress,

and mode of

but
life

differing

in

appearance,

from the inhabitants of

the country nearer the plains.

They

are a strong,

The Mountaineers.

23

active race, with a powerful physique,

pronounced

and not unpleasant features, mostly having- a nose

markedly hooked a peculiarity to be noticed in
the inhabitants of the Valley
the

tinct

name

races

as also

on our north-western border.

tribes

hill

itself,

among

No

dis-

exists for this particular race (or rather

for there are

subdivisions of tribes),

many

and they have no general appellation amongst themselves.

They are usually termed Paharis, meaning
mountaineers, a comprehensible name, and as good
as any other

so, for

convenience' sake, in speaking

of the inhabitants of this region on our march to

the

Vale,

we

will

so

designate

in

the villages

excepting

whom are to
many
as we approach the terof

always the true Kashmiris,

be found

them,

mination of our journey.

Such

then, in brief outline,

inhabitants, lying

is

the country and

its

between the Indian plains and the

mountain ranges, on the other side of

to be found the Valley itself, with an

lofty wall of

which

is

appearance and a people totally

distinct,

a country

which must be traversed by long and wearisome

marches before arriving at the smiling plain beyond.

And

although this sketch

is

very incomplete, and

gives but an imperfect idea of the territory as

really exists,

still

trust

it

will

it

convey a general

The Happy

24

Valley.

impression of the nature and surroundings of this

mountainous

tract to those of

interested in the subject,

willing to

my

who

are

and who are ready and

accompany our journey

following chapter.

readers

as detailed in the

CHAPTER

II.

The Routes

to the Valley The Seasons for Visiting the Valley

Hints to Travellers Supplies Servants Money Conveyance

The Gujerat and Pir Panjal Route Called the Imperial Road
The Road to Bhimber Bhimber Its Former Rulers March to
Saidabad The Aditak Range Mogul Seraies March to Naoshera
The Kaman Goshi The View Marches to Changas and Rajaori
Thanna Mundi Baramgalla
.Fording the River
Rajaori
The Rutten Pir Wooden Bridges
Its
March to Poshiana
Houses The Pir Panjal Pass View from the Summit March
to Hirpur The Town of Shupiyan
Further Road to the Vale
Ramoo Arrival at Srinagar The Rawal Pindi and Marri Route
Hill Carts
Marches to Daywal and Kohala The River Jhelam
Chatar Kalas
Chakdti

Town

of

Marches

to

Rara, Tinali, Gharri, and Hatti

Road from Poonch Ooramboo Naoshera

Baramula By Water to Srinager Srinagar.
Ooree

the four authorized or public routes to the

which

is

and Pir Panjal

is

Valley already mentioned,

known

as the Gujerat

that

decidedly the grandest as regards scenery,

as well as the most interesting on account

of

its

historical associations,

which take us back to

the palmy days of the Great Moguls.

most convenient

to

all

travellers

It is also

the

from any part of

India, excepting those stationed higher

up

in

the

The Happy

26
Punjab.

Valley.

Gujerat, the starting-point,

seventy-five miles from Lahore, and

is

only some

now connected

with that city by the Northern State Railway, while

Rawal
is

Pindi, the starting-point for the other route,

100 miles further on.

Such being the case, this is perhaps the most

frequented road, and one that should most certainly
be selected, either
the Valley

than the other,

my own

In

proceeding to or returning from

although a

for,

in

it

case,

is

little

well worth the extra fatigue.

when

summer

in the

made

companied by

my

Happy

we proceeded by

Valley,

were anxious

wife,

grilling in the

the

the tour to the

the second, as

commencing the journey

Fortress Gwalior,

and also to avoid the heavy

month of

of 1875, ac-

we

to stay a short time in the cool climate

of Marri before

the

harder to travel

July,

and these

my

rains, as

after our

then station,
it

was then

falling at that

time in

higher mountains cause the rivers to be so

swollen on the other road as to render them almost

entirely impassable.

We

returned, however,

and being thus equally

by the Pir Panjal

familiar with either,

route,
I

will

essay a short sketch of the march over these high-

ways

to the Vale, prefacing

it

with a few observa-

tions as to certain specialities regarding travelling

Preparations for the Journey.

in the

As

Himalayas.

visiting

the

mountain

roads

Most people

regards the best season for

and

Valley,

27

for

lead

that

prefer the

over the

travelling

to

it,

differ.

opinions

three months after the

first

passes are open from the winter's snow, from about

The

the middle of April to the middle of June.

next best time

to

the

is

perhaps from the middle of August

end of October

the

between these dates being the

ticularly for the journey, as

period

intervening

least preferable, par-

it

is

the season

when

upon the mountains. As regards

the other months of the year, it hardly need be
heavy

rains

fall

said that few or no

the winter

in fact

Europeans
I

visit

the Valley in

believe that to do so

is

for-

bidden by the Kashmir government.

It need scarcely be observed that there are no

met with on the

hotels or shops to be

roads to the Valley.

It

different

becomes therefore neces-

sary for the traveller to procure and carry with him

nearly everything requisite for his support and comfort

on the journey.

There

is

certainly at every

stage or halting-place a bungalow, or

some kind

shelter to be found, set apart for his use.

will

way

most probably
;

dirty,

for

many

find

of

But he

need for his tent on the

of these rest-houses are

mean and

and, possessing but limited accommodation,

The Happy

28

are often found already

who have preceded

shops,

still

filled

him.

Valley.

on

by others
Although there are no
his arrival

certain supplies, such as

wood, milk, eggs,

and vegetables, are procurable at most of the

villages, where native servants will find all they refowls,

quire

but for their masters anything required in

excess of what

is

mentioned above must be pro-

cured at Gujerat or Marri, according to the route

No

selected.

leaving

these

luxuries
stations

will

until

be obtainable after
arrival

at

Srinagar,

where several good shops for European stores are

kept by Parsees and others.

Among

the other articles requisite, both for the

march and when moving about the Valley, there are

of course a tent and tent-furniture, such as carpet,
table,

chairs,

bedstead, bedding, bath, &c.,

all

of

which should be made so as to take to pieces or

and are generally procurable in the bazaars

of the stations from whence the start is made.

fold up,

Another tent

will

commodation of the
things, plates, cups,

and ironing

for the ac-

be found necessary

servants, as well as cooking

and

requisites,

glasses,

and other

and

also

articles

washing
which they

need, taking care, however, not to allow

have

all

they say they want, as

requirements would be endless.

in that

As

them

to

case their

to servants,

Servants.

opinions

differ-;

fewer the better

29

but from experience

for if

can say, the

numerous, they are a great

incumbrance, being perfectly helpless out of their

own

country, unless

mountain
found

travelling.

sufficient.

number ample

We
to

accustomed to marching or
For a bachelor, two will be
only took four, and found the

attend to our wants

we

but

possessed a treasure in our head-man, or butler,

Esau, whose

name

be familiar to those

will

who

have read Our Life and Travels in India, and who

on this trip took the general direction of affairs, as
he was accustomed to do

To

carry

coolies,

all

our Indian bungalow.

o

in

the impedimenta enumerated above,

mules, and ponies are required, and they

are to be found at

all

the halting-places, and are

paid four annas each man, and double that amount

each baggage animal for the day's march.

Certain

be observed for procuring them, as also

some useful hints to travellers on this journey, will
rules to

be found

in

Appendix

iii.

It occasionally

happens

that fresh coolies or mules cannot be procured at

one or two of the halting-places, so

it

is

always

advisable to ascertain that fact before payment

made

to those in employ.

If

none are

willing to proceed the original ones

to

go onwards the next day

at

is

hand or

must be retained

and the only way

to

The Happy

30

insure their services

or giving

them a

their services can

taken on

journey

to defer

all,

until

wage

be dispensed with and fresh ones

To pay

way on

one's

the

necessary to take a supply of rupees

is

and smaller

paying them at

fourth only of their

in their place.

it

Srinagar,

is

Valley.

enough

coins,

when no

difficulty

replenishing the purse

city act as bankers,

to last

will

arrival at

until

be met with

in

tradesmen at that

for the

cashing treasury

drafts, or

even

cheques, for a small percentage.

Both the roads

to the

are rideable nearly

places only

is

it

all

Vale about to be described

the

way

at certain

rough

necessary to dismount, and sure-

footed ponies are to be found at most of the haltingplaces,

although

walking

all

wish to

ride,

light

many

of the

the distance.
there

is

For

the dandi.

hardier sex
ladies

prefer

who do

not

This consists of a

cane seat and foot-piece attached to an oval

wooden

frame, with a short pole at each end which

upon the bearers' shoulders the same bearers,

four in number to each dandi, being procured at the
rests

starting-point,

and engaged

for the

whole

tour.

Being thus prepared with servants, baggage, and

coolies, and mules to carry the supplies, and in the
case of officers of the army, or civilians in govern-

ment employ, with the necessary pass or

permit, not

Gujerat and Pir Panjdl.

required by other travellers,

we

will

31

now

our mountain march over the great

The

on

start

Pir

Panjal.

from Gujerat to Srinagar is about

covered in fourteen marches, a day's

distance

176 miles,

march varying, according to the nature of the

ground and the position of the villages on the
road,

from

ten, or

As

fifteen.

even fewer miles, to twelve and

before stated,

route was

Gujerat and

the

Pir

one by which the Mogul

Emperors passed on their way to the Valley, and
numerous were the journeys of the members of
Panjal

the

that royal line from the time of

its

From

the great Akbar, in the year 1587.

of these monarchs using this route,

annexation by

it

the fact

was, and even

termed the Imperial Road, and the traveller

of to-day cannot fail to be reminded of their former
is yet,

presence, and recall their ancient grandeur,

observes the ruins of the magnificent

and other

when he

serais,

or inns,

buildings, erected at intervals along the

road for the accommodation of the monarch and the

numerous

On

retainers that

accompanied the Court.

leaving Gujerat, a pretty

little

station

on the

Grand Trunk Road, about seventy miles above

Lahore, the capital of the Punjab,

make

we proceed

to

Bhimber, a distance of twenty-eight miles,

which can be easily covered in one day, as it is over
for

The Happy

32

Valley.
'

the level plain, either by stage-cart or

dhooly dak.'

most satisfactory way of commencing the journey for after leaving Bhimber a
country is entered upon in which civilization in the
This

is

by

far the

shape of wheeled vehicles, or luxurious modes of

travelling

behind, and the dandies for ladies,

is left

and ponies

the sterner sex take their place,

for

serving their purpose very well, except in certain

parts of the passes',

wayfarer's
reliable

where

own lower

means of

ber from Gujerat

certainly consider the

limbs the safest and most

progression.
is

The

easy enough to

road to Bhimtravel,

and the

country passed over presents the usual features of

the landscape as seen in the Punjab,
plain,

at

certain

seasons of the

a continuous

and

year green

and sandy, and devoid of

all vegetation save that presented by a few clumps
of trees and shrubs, which stand about the vicinity
cultivated, at others dusty

mud

of the small villages, or rather collections of

huts, pretty plentifully dotted

Indian lowlands.

met with on the

No
road,

about

this part of the

objects of

any interest are

which, as one nears the town,

becomes sandy and broken up by numerous watercourses, the whole country looking as if it had been
in

former days a huge marsh,

nothing

in

now

the shape of vegetation

is

dried up
to

for

be remarked

Bhimber.

33

over the whole expanse, save some

and long coarse grass.

The town of Bhimber
containing a

and

tions

of considerable

is

some of

number of houses

rough unhewn

built of

tufts of reeds

fair

stone,

size,

propor-

mud, and

wood, situated just at the edge of the plain so lately

traversed on leaving Gujerat
and surrounded,
;

except on

wooded

its

southern

side,

with low

of

the

Outer

time

it

presents

portion

hills

Hills,

densely
already

described.

At

the

present

and forsaken appearance a contrast to

must have done in former days, when it was

desolate

what

it

a somewhat

the capital and residence of an independent Rajah,

whose

last

Sultan

Khan, came

to

Having acted

in opposition

to

representative,

an untimely end.

the then powerful Sikh ruler, Runjit Singh, in his

designs on the Valley, he was conquered and taken

prisoner by the Lion of the Punjab's Lieutenant,

Golab Singh, who directed and actually carried out

the barbarous proceeding of destroying his sight, by

means,

it

is

said, of

a silver bodkin

friction.

The unhappy

was kept

in close

year 1830;

his

made hot by

Rajah, after this torture,

confinement until his death,

in the

dominions becoming incorporated

with the Sikh State, and at

its

disruption passing

The Happy

34

Valley.

Golab Singh,
and becoming a part of the Jamoo and Kashmir
hands of

the

into

as

territories

his executioner,

existing

the present

at

day.

The

ruins of the old palace are yet standing, as also

Mogul serai, with the remains of a fort

and on the summit of a hill, some few miles distant,
those of a

is

the

of

castle
built

fortress/

Amur Gurgh

place

first

is

The immortal

by an uncle of the present

well worthy inspection

The

'

stage from

if

ruler,

and

time can be spared.

Bhimber and the next

halting-

Saidabad, a distance of fifteen miles, which

one day's march, since

will

be found

now

the difficulties of the journey fairly commence.

The

road at

sufficient for

first

is

fairly

good

but one has to

cross within the distance of a few miles a small

river

no

less

than eight times, on account of

numerous windings.
The guide-books
its bed is rough and rocky
an assertion
;

its

state that
I

can well

having experienced practical proof of its

condition from a heavy fall in the stream, caused
sustain,

was riding tumbling headlong over a

one of the crossings. About six miles

by the pony
boulder at

from our destination a range of sandstone hills,

called the Aditak, has to be crossed, the ascent
being made by a rough, steep path of about three
miles in length.

The summit

of the ridge, which

The
is

Serais.

35

about 1,000 feet above the level of the plains of

the

commands

Punjab,

in

weather a highly

fair

picturesque and extensive view of the country

have

left

we

the Saidabad valley, the continuation of

our journey, lying spread out

with a back-

in front

ground of mountains, the

loftiest

of the Pir Panjal range.

The

peaks being those

descent

is

easy

winding path about a mile long leads us to the

bottom of the ridge, and continuing across some
fields

by the

bank of a pretty

right

nearly four miles, turns to the

left,

a small stream, conducts to the

little

and, after fording

Samani
vation,

is

where a

village,

good stone bungalow has been erected

commodation of travellers.
There

river for

for the ac-

nothing to be seen here except the

serai,

a building
to

supposed

still

in fairly

have been

built

good

preser-

by Akbar, and

consequently one of the earliest erections of this

As

sort along the royal road.

pretty similar
suffice,

in.

and that

all

these serais are

construction, one description will

in

a few words, for there

is

nothing

very particular about them, being similar to the

usual so-called caravanserais

the East.

They

met with

all

through

generally consist of a large square

stone building, of which the architecture

is

usually

After passing through a

Saracenic in character.

The Happy

36

Valley.

massive doorway and gaining the centre of the

building,

which

is

be formed entirely of four large

twenty

feet or

like cells,

will

be seen to

walls,

oftentimes

uncovered, they

more

in thickness,

with deep niches,

formed out of their depth,

all

with the

openings towards the roofless square enclosure which

These niches formed the separate
they surround.

accommodation

who sought

for those

their shelter

and the four walls and the enclosure, as described

above, often form the entire structure.

This how-

supplemented in the larger and grander ones

by the addition of a suite of rooms raised above
the level of the ground, which, with other chambers
ever

is

and a

'

hamam

'

or bath-room, no doubt formed the

royal quarters for the accommodation of the

and

Mogul

his family.

Naoshera, about twelve miles from Saidabad,

usually the next march,

few miles

is

banks of the

and the road

for the first

easy to follow, continuing along the

river, across fields and. low

About halfway we come

called the

is

Kaman

to

grassy

hills.

another small range,

Goshi, which

is

formed of sand-

stone similar to the Aditak, crossed the previous

day,

and may with

it

be regarded as the stepping-

stones to the great Himalayas.

summit

is

The

path to the

about a mile long, and mostly over bare,

Naoshera and Changas.

dull -coloured

slippery,

rocks,

and

Scotland.

very

fine

view

pull to the top of the ridge

is

is

scenery and

its

much

general surroundings are very

37

like parts of

obtained after the

surmounted

for the

whole open plain or valley just left lies spread out,

a green and smiling expanse, offering a marked
contrast to the surrounding ranges of mountains,

which

in front

appear to cover the entire country

as far as the eye can reach, range after range, with

the Pir Panjal for a background.

easy,

The

descent

is

path being generally smooth, and on

the

arrival at its foot

a pleasant walk of another three

miles brings one to Naoshera, a compact stone-built

town situated
the

Tawi

There
it

an open plain on the right bank of

in

river.
is

not

much

to

be seen, however, either

in

or in the vicinity, so leaving the town the following

day the

traveller proceeds to

make

for

Changas, a

village lying about fourteen miles away, the road to

which

is

not very

difficult to traverse,

leading as

it

does along the comparatively level ground of the

valley of the

Tawi

bounded on each

The

river,

side

a narrow but pretty glen,

by low and

beautifully

wooded

Changas is on a plateau on
the right bank of the river, and a quarter of a mile
distant is a bungalow, the best on the road, in my
hills.

village of

The Happy

38

Valley.

commands from

opinion, which

verandah what

its

most magnificent view obtainable

of the Pir Panjal range.
This I can well endorse,
said to be the

is

and we saw

it

to perfection

a heavy

for

fall

of

snow the previous day had covered the peaks,

which stood out boldly and well-defined against
the clear blue sky, and, bathed in a roseate flood
of light from the rays of the setting sun, afforded
a spectacle of grandeur and beauty not to be easily
effaced from our minds.

The next march

leads us to Rajaori,

too, the fourteen miles

and

here,

of road are comparatively

easy to overcome, passing over a not very steep

path along the right bank of our old

or rough
friend

the

opposite

Tawi, which

the town

in

has

be forded

to

order to reach the

just

usual

encamping -ground and rest -bungalow, situated on

the left bank of the swiftly-flowing stream.
The
crossing of the river at this point

easy matter, particularly

heavy
for

fall 'of

some

little

if

is

there has lately been a

rain in the mountains,

time renders

oftentimes no

it

even

which at

first

totally impass-

Such had been the case when we essayed

passage, and this was the cause of my passing

able.
its

perhaps the most miserable quarter of an hour

ever experienced

for the stream

was

icy cold, deep,

Dangers of Flooded Rivers.

and

39

bed exceedingly rough

and full of large loose boulders, and to cross this
quarter of a mile of water, for such was about its
rapid, flowing over a

width, swollen as
to hold

it

was with the

on to each other

late rain,

tightly to prevent being

swept away by the force of the current.

a

we had

Forming

each other's hands,

chain

by grasping
myself, servants, and coolies went stumbling
living

over,

the water being sometimes up to our chins, at other

times scarcely covering our knees

stony bed

The

made but a poor

while

of the

little

we

breath

loose

its

surface to stand on.

coldness of the water, coming as

snowy mountains, most

the

it

did from

effectually deprived us

could spare after our exertions

and progress forwards,

misery and anxiety, I had the un-

to maintain our erect position

and

to

add

to

my

pleasant reflection that

ahead of
to

if

the twelve men,

who

just

me were

swaying and tottering from side

side under the burden of the dandi, were not

staunch and strong enough to preserve their footing,

the miserable spectacle would be presented of

overthrow, and probable drowning of

the dear companion of
self

nor any of

the

slightest

calamity.

my

occupant,

journey, neither

my-

following being able to render

assistance

We

my

its

its

to

fortunately,

obviate

such

dire

however, experienced

The Happy

40

Valley.

and

no such untoward misfortune,

all

reaching

safely the opposite side continued our way, wet

but rejoicing.

The town

of

Rajaori,

sometimes called

also

Rampore, is the largest met with along this route,

and is most picturesquely situated on an angle
formed by the junction of the Tawi and another
small river, the waters of the former washing the

stone walls of the palace, a building which rises

directly

from

its

bed.

Low-lying

jungle surround the town, which

hills
is

covered with

of fair

size,

with

houses built of wood, mud, or brick, and contains

several noticeable places, either within
in its vicinity,

its

walls or

such as temples and other buildings.

Formerly the seat of an independent Rajah, it was

a place of some considerable importance, and in its

palmy days has seen grand

sights

ments, given by the

members

sovereigns, which

said to

is

of

its

and entertain r
ancient line of

have dated from the

eleventh century, to the Moguls and their retinue,

when they

halted here on their

way

to the Valley.

But these days have departed never

After the

fall

of the

Mogul

to

return.

dynasty, the state lost

by little its possessions, and being finally seized

by Golab Singh in 1847, became merged into the
Sikh dominions, and subsequently, like Bhimber,

little

The Rutten Pir Range.

Kashmir Raj

into the

family of the last of

tection,

and are

tea-growing

On

while the

41

members

of the

rulers sought British pro-

its

at the present time settled in the

of Kangra.

district

leaving Rajaori the road to

Thanna Mundi,

the next halting-place, a distance of fourteen miles,

is

easy to march on, and pleasant throughout, passThis, however, with the river

ing along the valley.

becomes narrower and narrower,

until

merged

Rutten Pir range of mountains, which

in

The

front.

fairly fruitful,

raised

we

is

pass

rice in considerable quantity

on ground terraced and made into

which are flooded

the

rises straight

valley through which

and

in

from the river that flows through

we

by much bolder scenery

fields,

proper seasons with water

at the

arriving at the village

is

midst.

its

find ourselves
for

On

surrounded

we have now

entered

upon the Region of the Middle Mountains, and the

hills

already crossed sink into insignificance

when

contrasted with those which overshadow this place,

and whose
spruce,

and

sides,
fir

covered

trees,

range between the

with

forests

of

pine,

form the third intervening

Pir Panjal and

the point of

departure.

In the next march to Baramgalla, a short but

hard one of ten miles,

this

Rutten Pir range has

The Plappy

42
to

Valley.

be crossed, a piece of pretty rough mountain

The

travelling.

Poonch

route,

road to the Vale

and which

known

passes in front are deep with snow,

to

commence

here.

It

when

the

may be

said

utilized

is

as the

branches off about a mile

beyond Thanna, and, passing through the town

from which it takes its name, proceeds on to join
the Marrj route, as will be seen by reference to the

The

Appendix.
first

mile or so,

Tawi, which
nearing

its

road after leaving Thanna, for the

still

now

is

continues along the side of the

only a small stream, as

source, at the foot of the range

we

are

we have

reached, and which has to be surmounted on the

way

to our next

It

resting-place.

hard work

is

rough and
but when once surmounted, a

to gain the summit, the path being very

uneven

at

places

magnificent view

is

the reward

for the top of the

Rutten Pir stands 8,300 feet above the sea

commanding

level,

an extensive tract of country, while

looking north-eastward there are grand views of the

and adjacent mountains. The descent

equally steep and rough as the ascent, and one is

Pir Panjal
is

not sorry to reach the village, which

is

close to the

base of the ridge, near a stream, and entirely shut

in

by spurs of the mountains around, adding

its

picturesque beauty in summer, but not serving

to

Singular

much towards

winter

protection in

its

43

Village.
for

snow

stated that at that season of the year

about here to the depth of

which runs near, and which

to cross the stream

is

similar in construction to all

spanned by a bridge

met with

in

consisting of large logs of deodar or

cedar

wood

stretched

lies

Just before

fifty feet.

we had

reaching the village

is

it

from

rough planks and brushwood

bank

to

Kashmir,

Himalayan
bank,

laid across

with

them

to

form the platform.

The

next march

this place

is

Poshiana

to

and

one has to follow the course of the river

an

exceedingly narrow

Sooran,

which

valley.

For several miles the only road

flows

in

count of the steepness of the

is

over the loose stones of

hills
its

cliffs

on either

and re-crossed no

less

of five miles over the

described above.

side,

it

'of

on
it

acin

and as the

course as

it

has to be crossed

than thirty times

little

hem

that

bed

stream has numerous alterations

nears the

to reach

in

a distance

rickety primitive bridges

After leaving the stony track of

the stream, about a mile or so this side of Poshiana,

the path leads up

some hundreds
to

this

its

right bank,

and a

of feet up the hillside

extraordinary place

stiff pull

brings

of
us

small village, the

highest in the valley, and inhabited by Kashmiris.

The Happy

44

The

Valley.

houses are built almost entirely of mud, on the

precipitous hillside, rising tier above tier in

some

ground for their construction

having been hollowed out from the side of the
Their roofs are
mountain, against which they lean.

places

flat

sufficient level

and smooth

one's

and

if

a tent has to be pitched for

accommodation, as there
it

available,
roofs, for

no

is

rest-house

has to be put up on one of these

no other

level piece of

ground

sufficiently

large for the purpose could be found within

distance of the village.

another

serve

purpose

against heavy snow

ness drew near, the
;

for

These

flat

as well
I

as

remarked

roofs

some

seem

to

protection

that, as

dark-

sheep, goats, and fowls were

driven on to them up a species of rough ladder, or

rather inclined plane of planks with cross-pieces,

which was removed when they were all safely

housed for the night over their owner's head,

who was
his flocks

enabled to sleep

and

in peace,

knowing

his herds were, as far as

that

he could

provide, in a measure secure against the attacks

of wild beasts

in this locality pretty plentiful,

but

rather shy of approaching the habitation of men.

The

next march

is

to

Aliabad

serai,

and the

distance eleven miles, but nearly sufficient for one

day

for

it

is

in this

march the chief pass on the

The Pir Panjdl Pass.

route, that of the Pir Panjdl,
itself is

a pretty

the road

At

crossed

and that of

After leaving Poshiana,

climb.

stiff

is

45

contours to the base of the valley.

first

the upper end the ascent to the summit of the

pass commences, which

is

reached by a steep, nar-

row, boulder-strewn path, cut in zigzag form out

The

of the mountain side.

in

places

good, but

is fairly

path

decidedly rough, over large rocks

loose stones

and

remains a marvel to

it

and

me how

the ponies and mules, often heavily laden, pass up

and down, springing

is

upwards

Progress

like cats

from rock to rock.

necessarily

slow

but with

the top of the pass can

ordinary expedition,

be

something under four hours from leaving

Poshiana, from which it is distant about six miles.

gained

in

In ascending
different

we

pass successively through the

stages of mountain vegetation

nearing the summit, the pines, the

have vanished

for

of forest growth,

stunted

grass,

we have

is

is

and shrubs

around us but

stones,

highest parts, unmelted snow.

of the pass, which

and on

arrived above the limit

and nothing

rocks, fallen

firs,

and,

From

on

the

the summit

a comparatively level piece

of ground, with lofty walls of mountain masses on

either side, standing at an elevation of 11,800 feet

above the level of the

sea,

a magnificent prospect

The Happy

46
unfolds

It

itself.

is

Valley,

one truly grand.

On

either

side rise mountains, their peaks soaring aloft to a

height in some cases of between sixteen and seventeen thousand

Straight in front the whole of

feet.

the country, with the ranges already crossed, their

valleys

and

their silvery streams, lies spread out as a

picturesque panorama of rare and exceeding loveliness.

Beyond

again, as a

dim grey expanse, are the

plains of India, as far as the eye can reach, until

a hazy mist

lost in

and

if

the air be sufficiently

clear the minarets of the capital of the

be discerned, a distance of 130

miles.

Punjab can

From

summit a gradual and easy descent over a

covered plateau, like a mountain
in

by walls of

which

is

grass-

meadow hemmed

rock, a glen of five miles long

half a mile in width, brings

one

the

by

to Aliabad serai,

nothing more than one of those usual

places of shelter to the traveller, standing alone in

its

solitude,

the year,

and deserted

when

it is

for the greater part of

completely inaccessible through

snow.

From

this

desolate region to Hirpur, the next

stage, the road passes along

and above the stream,

which dashes wildly over the rocks, and with hills

rising on either side forms a narrow valley, widening
out,

however, as

we approach our

destination; while

The Valley Reached.

the

hills,

covered with forest

their sides

come mere

47
trees, be-

compared with those to which

we have hitherto been accustomed, and barely
hillocks

interfere with

what

is

now

view of the far-famed Vale

for,

obtainable

itself,

the

first

so eagerly looked

so gladly welcomed.

Deferring however for the present any description of the Valley,

and make

we

will

proceed on our journey,

the town of

for the next halting-place

Shupiyan, a large place, and the great commercial

depot of Kashmir and the Punjab, distant about

eight miles from Hirpur, and reached by an easy
road along the right bank of the

town the further road

The

this

to the capital lies north, about

twenty-seven miles, and

two marches.

From

river.

it

can be easily reached

village of

Ramoo

is

in

the usual

and the following day

an easy ride of eighteen miles over a smooth and
level road, planted with poplar trees on either side

halting-place for the night,

for a greater part of the way, brings us to Srinagar,

when

crossing the bridge that spans the river -we

make our way, weary with mountain

travel, to the

usual encamping-ground, rejoicing however in the

fact that the toilsome

marches are over, and the

promised land, the Happy Valley, yea, even

at last.
capital, safely reached

its

The Happy

48

Valley.

Regarding the other route

India, that called the

a few words

Kashmir from

into

Rawal Pindi and Marri

will suffice

for

does not

it

road,

such

offer

magnificent scenery or other objects of interest to

render

it

although

so attractive as the one just described,

is

it

picturesque along most of

way, a

its

distance of nearly 200 miles, and as the travelling

is

to

and there are no formidable mountain ridges

cross, the town of Srinagar can be easily reached

easy,

in fourteen, or

even half that number of marches.

usual to proceed direct from

It is

Rawal

Pindi, a

large civil and military station in the Punjab, about

100 miles from Peshawar, to the

distant forty miles, either
If the latter

dak.

and

pleasant,
is

progression

is

by

hill-station of Marri,

stage-cart or dhooly-

chosen, the travelling

but slow, and the quicker

usually selected

is

easy

mode

namely, the

of

cart.

drawn by two horses, covers the ground in

grand style, and is besides good for the liver for
the road being rough and hilly, the vehicle guiltless
This,

of springs, and the pace a gallop, one gets plenty

of exercise
it

in

larly

my

the nearest approach to anything like

experience being a long ride on a particu-

rough -stepping horse.

sanitarium, the road,

From

this

smooth and down

favourite
hill,

along

the side of a picturesque valley, brings one in about

Chatar Kalas.

49

ten miles to the village of Daywal, where there

good bungalow to rest in for the night.

Kohdla is the next point, a distance of ten
and over a

similar road, being for the

is

miles,

an

first five

easy descent to the river Jhelam, along the right

bank of which the route now

lies

the

all

to

way

Srinagar, the rapid, roaring, rushing torrent being

Kohala

ever present on the daily march.

make

in the

Chatar Kalas, eleven miles

for

Kashmirian kingdom, which

after leaving the first-

named

is

village

we proceed

small village, needs no description, and

to

itself,

off,

situated

gained soon

by means of

a suspension -bridge across the river Jhelam, the

boundary between
nearly the

first

and

it

three miles the road follows the

course of the river, with a

then, striking into the

pretty

level

fair

hills, it

ascent

passes

all

first

the way,

over some

ground and next over some steep

when the rest-house

gorges,

For

British territory.

is

reached, standing

on a plateau overlooking the river, and at an angle

of the bed of a wide mountain torrent, which here
This rough and stony bed, like
most others met with in the journey, is fordable

joins the Jhelam.

nearly

all

passable,
winter's

the year, and

except just

snow

sets

in.

is

seldom very

when

the

Some

full

melting

or imof

the

excellent fishing

is

The Happy

50

Valley.

mahseer being found

varying between thirty and

to be obtained about here, the

of a very large
forty

size,

pounds weight, and affording some good sport

before being brought to bank.

From

this place to Rara, distant

between ten and

eleven miles, the road crosses the stony bed of the

torrent noted above,

the side of a

and

then, ascending, follows

overlooking the river for about

hill

Two

half the distance.

or three miles more, over

undulating ground, brings us within sight of our

which the road gradually dean easy walk of some two miles

destination, towards

scends

and

after

the rest-house

on a

is

gained, most pleasantly situated

level spot just

the next stage,

Tinali,

distant

above the rapid Jhelam.

is

some

miles

thirteen

the road following the course of the river

with some very steep ascents, over passes led up to

by pathways constructed
by laying
earth.

the

The

river,

being

logs of

full

wood

rest-house

at

in

a series of

across,

is

and

steps,

filling

in

made
with

within a short distance of

a sharp bend

in

its

course

this,

of small rocks, causes a seething and

foaming of the water, which on

its

rapid

onward

course becomes a rushing, roaring torrent, magnificent to witness.

chiefly

From

this place the road, passing

over comparatively level ground for eight

Hatti and Chdkoti.

wide plateau, upon which

find the rest-house of Ghari
our halting-place

miles, brings us to a long,

we

for the night.

The next

stage to Hatti,

a very pleasant journey

some ten miles or

so, is

a good deal of level

ground being passed over among fertile fields and

charming scenery, and amidst a quiet which is
appreciated after the continuous roar of the river,

which has hitherto been the accompaniment of the

daily march.

On

a small village high up on the

leaving Hatti

mountain-side
the road

stream

for

Chakoti,

fifteen

miles

distant,

descends with a sharp gradient to a

first

crossing which a steeper ascent has to be

up the face of a hill, by zigThere are a number of ascents and

accomplished,

zag paths.

literally

descents on this march, and several streams to be

crossed,
it

is

most of which

are,

however, bridged

but

a fatiguing joyrney, and one welcomes gladly

the bungalow, which

after rising

is

come upon suddenly,

just

from one of those water-courses, most

pleasantly situated, overlooking a scene of fertility

and prosperity
of corn and

in the

form of wide-spreading

fields

rice.

From Chakoti

to

Ooree

is

sixteen

miles,

the

roughest and most fatiguing march on this route

E 2

The Happy

52
still

Valley.

along the valley of the Jhelam, the path passing

for the

In the

most part up and down numerous ravines.

first

two-thirds of the stage the hardest

has to be done
level,

work

the last few miles being pretty

ending at a small mountain stream, from the

bed of which a steep ascent brings one to a large

open plain, where the rest-house of Ooree is placed,
overlooking the

At

river.

tioned a few pages back

route

joins this

men-

from Poonch

this place the cross-road

when

describing the other

and, continuing our way, after a

rather steep descent to the bed of a stream, and a

similar ascent, the path passes along the left

of the

through most beautiful

river

Ooramboo, about ten miles

bungalow has been

scenery to

where an excellent

off,

lately built

bank

and the next march

past the village of Naoshera brings us to Bdramula,

'by a road easy

and

pleasant.

tion of the tramp, for

Valley
is

is

the termina-

conducts us into the

Happy

and, once arrived at Baramiila, the choice

offered

land.

it

This

The

of

proceeding either by water or

first

is

usually selected

for

it

is

by
two

and besides, the

long marches on to Srinagar
journey by boat, which takes about twenty hours, is
;

by

far the pleasantest, passing across the

lake

the largest in

Kashmir

Woolar

through which the

At

53

Srinagar.

Some miles further on the city

Jhelam flows.
becomes visible and soon the encamping-ground
;

is

reached

ducted

my

the

same

to

which

have already con-

readers by the other route.

Having

thus safely arrived in the heart of the country

to visit,

we

Valley

itself

its

toms,

and

came

will

other

now

turn our attention to the

history, people,

matters

we

manners and

relative

picturesque and romantic land.

to

this

cus-

most

CHAPTER
Arrival at Srinagar

III.

The Encamping Ground for European

Visitors

The Babu

Courtesy shown by the Maharajah to Visitors The

British Officials in Kashmir The Takt-i-Suliman
Its Legend-

its Summit
Panoramic View of the City and the
The
Dal
Lake
Mountains
Valley
Surrounding the Valley The
River Jhelam The Land in the Centre of the Valley The Karee-

Stone Temple on

wahs

European Character of the Scenery Physical History of

Formerly a Lake Volcanic Agencies in its Formation
Evidences of former Lacustrine Condition of Valley Formation

the Valley

The Desiccation

of

Kareewahs

its

Desiccation

of Kashmir

of the Vallqy.

Legend respecting

Vigne's Theory of its Desiccation Early History

Wilson's Essay on the Hindu History of Kashmir

Rulers The Chakk Family

Afghan Rulers Ranjit Singh Decline of
the Prosperity of Kashmir England's Opportunity for its AcquisiIts

Native Kings

Its

The Great Moguls

tion

Mohammedan

Its

What might have

Government

in

followed

Its

present Ruler

Form

of

Kashmir.

AVING

arrived at Srinagar, the

of the visitor to the

find a suitable

place

Happy

care

first

Valley

is

to

on the ground set

apart for the use of Europeans, to pitch

his tent,

and

settle quietly

down

for a

few

days, to recover from the fatigues of the mountain

journey, and also to explore at leisure the city and

Quarters at Srinagar,
its

55

environs before proceeding further

this is not

for the

difficult

task

for a

more

afield.

And

suitable spot

purpose could scarcely be found than that

on the right bank of

the river, facing which some good bungalows have
of late years been erected for the accommodation of

selected, a little

strangers.

The

above the

city

There are two ranges of these

buildings.

lower one, commencing about a quarter of a mile

above the bridge,

bachelors.
in three

is

intended solely for the use of

It consists

of ten bungalows, standing

built of

gardens or orchards,

containing four rooms

visitors take

up

and

wood, each

in these the

unmarried

their abode, themselves supplying

of course the necessary furniture, while those

arrive later, to find

them

tents in the vicinity,

and

all
if

who

occupied, pitch their

desirous of exchanging

a canvas house for one of stouter material, a desi-

deratum

in rainy weather,

must wait

for a vacancy,

the privilege of occupancy ceasing on leaving Srina-

gar after the lapse of a few days.

The same law

holds good in regard to those sacred to the use of

the Benedicts and their families.

This range, usually

styled the married range, consists of sixteen houses

of similar construction, except a few larger ones
built of brick, situated in a large

garden called the

Moonshi Bagh, where excellent ground

is

obtained

The Happy

56

who

for those

prefer their

visited Srinagar,

we had

arrival,

When we

tents.

Well do

reme'mber

and the putting up of our

travelling

For we arrived

house.

own

at first to live in our tent,

every room being occupied.

our

Valley.

late in the evening, after a

long and fatiguing march from Gulmarg, and

pitch-dark

which we

And

when we reached

at first

had some

further trouble

was

it

was

the encamping ground,

little difficulty in

finding.

in store for us, wet, cold

and hungry as we were, the pitching of a tent being

no joke when it has to be performed by the light of
a single tallow candle stuck in a lanthorn, and by
the aid of a lot of unwilling natives, weary and
half-famished.

we

However,

it

was done

at last,

turned in and enjoyed a good night's

rest.

and

We

were lucky enough to secure the reversion of two

rooms in one of the bungalows, which we entered

upon

in

a few days.

There we remained

rest of our stay, enjoying

perhaps,

them much

not so romantic,

for the

for although,

yet dwelling under a

good roof is decidedly preferable to living

Soon after arrival you are favoured with a

in

a tent.

call

from

Agent deputed by the Kashmirian

government to afford aid and information to the
European visitors, and very willing and obliging we
the

Native

found him.

His

office is

not very far distant, where

Courtesy of the Maharajah.

he can usually be found

every day at the

57

but he generally attends

visitors' quarters,

ready to give his

up of such knotty points

rates of fares, and the end-

assistance in the clearing

as the prices of articles,
less disputes

between the Indian servants and the

natives of the country.

curious, but a very polite,

custom prevails

Kashmir, that on the day following one's

in

arrival, the

Native Agent, attended by a number of servants,

in

making his first visit, presents an offering of food

and fruit, and a sheep or a goat from the Maharajah,

same time bidding you welcome

at the

in his

name

This politeness of the

ruler of the state to strangers is frequently extended
not only to the living, but to the dead for if an

to the capital of his country.

English officer

is

so unfortunate as to

death during his stay

prince, to

show

his

come

to his

in the Valley, this attentive

sympathy with the melancholy

event, usually sends a shawl of price to

body

in before burial.

official

In addition to

wrap the
the Kashmir

mentioned above, there are three European

officers detailed

annually by the Indian government

for duty during the season in the

These

are,

medium

civil

officer or

Happy Valley.
Resident, who is the

of communication between the visitors and

the native

officials,

and who also possesses

juris-

The Happy

58
diction over

all

Valley.

British subjects during their stay

a medical officer to attend to their bodily wants, and

a chaplain,

who performs

divine service every Sun-

day, to attend to their spiritual needs.

three officials a residence

To

these

assigned between the

is

two ranges of quarters already described, and on

them it is advisable to call soon after arrival.
Politeness

demands

it,

and often necessity compels

it

Being now comfortably established, and recovered

from fatigue, our first care will be to ascend some
height whence' a good general view of the Valley

and the
effected

city
for,

mediately
stands a

as

if

made

behind the
hill

known

'Throne of Solomon/
above the

This can easily be

can be obtained.

sea, or

for such a purpose, im-

married
as
at

little

Takt-i-Suliman, or

the

an elevation of 6,250 feet

more than

Whence

that of Srinagar.

houses

of

range

its

,000 feet above

name

know

not,

we

possess no record of that well-

known personage

of Bible history ever establishing

for certainly

his regal seat

on

this elevated

curious as showing

how

mound.

often in the East

with the names of those familiar to us

history, in native legends
reality

But

and

it

is

we meet

in

sacred

literature, or in actual

as in the reputed grave of

Noah and

his

The Takt-i-Suliman.
sons at Ajudhia, near Faizabad

eminences

in this part of

Why

nation.

59

that there are

Asia that bear

name

or wherefore the

two

this desig-

of Takt-i-

Suliman was applied to that elevated mountain of

the Sulimani

range

is

difficult

to

say,

as

native

legends do not allege any wonders performed by

monarch anywhere in its vicinity. Whereas, on

the one to which we shall shortly direct our steps,
that

Solomon, the great prophet, the mighty magician, is

supposed by all good Mussulmans to have taken his
stand during the progress of the desiccation of the
Valley, carried out

by

his orders

through the means

of a spirit or spirits rendered subservient by the

Almighty to his will.

Let us now ascend

this

hill,

another name to that already

styled
Siva.'

by the Hindus the

To

effect

which has also

mentioned, being

Sir-i-Shur, or

our purpose

we

'

Head

of

pass out of the

orchard at the back of our quarters, and climbing

over a low earth wall that surrounds

selves in a small

it,

find our-

through which a path runs

which conducts on to the road just behind the
field,

village of Drogjun,

and close

on the western side of the

to the gate of the city lake.

path to the summit of this isolated

and the ascent

is

made with

hill

hill,

Here the
commences,

ease in the space of

60

The Happy

half-an-hour

Valley.

made by

for a series of stone steps,

order of the late Maharajah, extends nearly

way, rendering

On

the top of the

hill,

of trap formation, stands an interesting

bygone days, which

carries us

the history of the country

and which

is

known Indian

relic

of

back 2,000 years

in

summit of the Takt-

yet in a good state of pre-

servation, was, according to

erected by Jaloka,

which

for this fine old stone

temple, which rises on the very

i-Suliman,

the

comparatively easy to the most

it

indifferent pedestrian.
is

all

authentic accounts,

all

the son of Asoka, that well-

and supporter of Buddhism,

who flourished some 200 years before the Christian
era.

prince,

In form a cone of nearly thirty feet in height,

with a proportionate base,

octagonal
height,

stone

it

platform,

is

elevated upon an

about

twelve

on the eastern side of which

is

feet

in

fine flight

of steps leading from the ground to the door of the

temple, formed of slabs of limestone highly polished,

the same material entering into the composition of

the whole building.

Its interior is circular,

fourteen

feet in diameter, with a flat roof, supported

four stone

pillars,

rangular platform,
stone,

which

followed

at

and

in its centre stands

upon

a quad-

supporting a lingam of black

testifies

different

to

the

periods

diversity

within

of
its

faiths

walls.

o
UJ
_i

View of Srinagar.

Originally a Buddhist temple, like the country, later

on

became Mohammedan, and was converted

it

a mosque; while the presence within

day of
that

it

Hindu

this

emblem of

it

into

at the present

the worship of Siva, testifies

has also been utilized by the followers of the

religion.

Turning our attention now to the object for which

we have more particularly undergone the trouble of
ascending the mount,
is

we

find that beautiful indeed

the panoramic view presented to the eye of the

spectator from the

which, from

its

summit of the Takt-i-Suliman,

situation

of the

hill,

we

the centre of one of

commands

the sides of the Valley,

length and breadth.

in

Commencing

nearly

its

whole

at the very foot

see the city of Srinagar extending for

two miles along both banks of the river Jhelam,

presenting a curious assemblage of gable -ended
houses of diversified architecture,
roofs

overlaid with

other plants.

earth,

many

with their

green with grass, and

Interspersed amongst the ordinary

dwelling-houses are seen

many

larger buildings of

a different order, with pinnacles, and occasionally

glittering roofs of metal,

devoted to
with

its

religion.

mosques and other

The

palace of the Maharajah,

golden-roofed temple, rises on the

of the river, which as

it

edifices

left

bank

flows through the city

is

The Happy

62

Valley.

of an average breadth of about eighty-eight yards,

spanned at
easily to

different places

by seven wooden

bridges,

be counted from our present stand-point.

number of

canals or water-courses meandering in

and roads or

divers directions,

paths,

their sides

planted with poplar or other trees, in leafy avenues,

with some small patches here and there of cultivated

ground, complete the picture of the capital of the

Valley and

its

immediate surroundings.

Separated

by a wide gully from the Takt, and frowning down

on the

city,

stands the Pandu

Chakk mountain, and

extending from this to the northward a precipitous

but verdant range

round the next object that

the Dal or city lake, and,

circles

attracts our attention,

'

'

sweeping round the greater part of its circumference,

continues into a far higher range, becoming part of
The
the greater one that surrounds the Valley.
lake,

whose shores are about a mile from the base

of these green and

north-eastern

lofty mountains,

side of the city,

lies

and on the

spread out, a

tranquil sheet of water of five miles in length

about two and a half

willows, poplars,

in width, its

and other

masses of foliage that

trees

attract the

by

edges fringed with

;

while the thicker

eye are those that

form the famous gardens of the Shalimar and the

Nasseeb Bagh, or Garden of

'

Bliss.'

Another green

The Dal Lake.

spot

is

63

the Isle of Chenars, or the 'Silver Island,'

situated about the middle of the lake

centre

of

its

southern portion

companion, the Sona

Numerous
rich

little

ders the

city,

and

in

be seen

Lank, or 'Golden

the
its

Island.'

surrounded with trees and

villages,

and cultivated

to

is

on

land,

edge that bor-

.the

complete the coup d'ceil of the lake,

that portion of the Vale

more

particularly described

Lalla Rookh, and to a more minute inspection of which we will return a little later on.
in

Taking now a more extended view, we glance over

the greater part of the Valley itself, and from our
elevation can trace the vast mural cordillera that

forms
lofty

its

boundary on every

In front

side.

is

the

range of the Pir Panjal, continuing on the

south with the mountains of Kishtawar, and on the

north-west into the

Durawur and
gigantic

the

still

loftier

Dardu

Haramuk

and snowy peaks of

Northward, the

country.

rises in

majesty

while that im-

portant range of mountains that .bounds Kashmir

on the north-east stands

in all its grandeur, with

peaks over 20,000 feet high, and with snow that

gives
hills,

rise
in

to

fact

many a
small

glacier.

Several

isolated

mountains, are scattered over

Those of Shupiyan and Islamabad

are prominent objects on the south, more than
the Valley.

The Happy

64

Valley.

and looking northward we

perceive the rounded summit of Aha Thung, concealing the beautiful Manasbal lake and nearer to

twenty miles distant

the

city,

on

northern side, the Harri Parbat,

its

summit occupied by the

fort erected in

past by the great Akbar, to

command

its

days long
the capital

of the province so lately added to his dominions.

The
its

course of the broad and beautiful Jhelam, and

windings as

approaches the city from the

it

southward, are clearly to be traced, as well as

further

the

north side

which

throughout the entire length of

progress

Valley

it

that

is

larger

passes to

flat

make

of water on

its

By

lake,'

formed

like

and meadow

from two or three to

the usual alluvial

boundaries at flood-time.

savannah-like

tract,

and

some

the banks of this river

flats

deposition of sediment on the water

its

the

through

exit at Baramula,

plain of rich, open, arable

land, varying in width

miles,

streak

the Woolar, or 'great

few miles further on.

lies

its

Beyond

filling

fifteen

by the

overflowing
this rich

up the

and

rest of the

space in the centre of the Vale, are those open,

raised downs or plateaus, of alluvial or lacustrine
material

called

kareewahs, often

separated

from

each other by deep ravines, formed by the different

watercourses in their passage from the mountains

the Scenery.

European Aspect of

65

beyond to their destination, the river. Some of

these downs are dry and bare others, again, richly
;

cultivated, being irrigated

by small streams

while

some, particularly on the southern side of the Valley,

are joined to the lower spurs of the
range, and bear forests of pine.

Pir

Beyond

Panjal

this tract

of raised downs, and approaching nearer to the

rocky boundary of the Valley,

lies

a rugged country,

by ravines and furrowed by rushing

and raging torrents and beyond again are the

intersected

first
in,

slopes of the mountain barrier that

hems us

covered on the south-western side with dense

forests

of pine and deodar, and with grass only

on the more northern aspect.

Innumerable villages
and isolated farm-houses are dotted about all over
the landscape.
of

It

is,

indeed, one that reminds us

home; and we can hardly

beyond
near

realize that only just

that chain of mountains which appears so

lie

although

in

corn-fields,

For

hot and arid plains of India.

the

we

general view

rice-grounds,

see

kareewahs,

meadows, and morasses,

occupying the centre of the Valley, with mountain

slopes and yet higher ranges beyond, the aspect

of the scenery

is

European

in character.

many

instances differ

has

and although the

from those found in

not the verdure of the tropics

trees in

It

The Happy

66

Europe, at a distance
markable, and as
truly Alpine,

its

this

Valley.

difference

glens, glades,

nothing

is

and streams are

wanting to complete the

picture of a country Asiatic

natural characteristics

not re-

is

by

situation,

but with

most thoroughly European.

Regarding the physical history of the Valley, the

traveller Vigne remarks that, taking a general view
from any elevated

spot, the walls of the Valley, in

consequence of the disposition of the mountains

near Baramiila, appear, excepting from very near the

be unbroken and undivided, enclosing

a large hollow, which at first sight gave him an idea
of its having been originally formed by the falling
to

place

itself,

in of

an exhausted volcanic region.

he

states,

however,

is

This theory
not confirmed by an exami-

nation in detail, which tends to produce abundant

evidence as to the truth of the tradition, that this

smiling Valley was once a lake, a large inland sea,

one of the deepest and most extensive that ever

existed

on the surface of the Asiatic continent.

That volcanic

action

had some share

formation of the original lake or

either in the

its

subsequent

most probable, and is to be traced in

These are chiefly
the mountains around the Vale.

desiccation

is

basaltic in character, their usual formation being a

beautiful amygdaloidal trap, while in

many

places,

Its Lacustrine Origin.

more

especially

surface
stone,

on the southern

67

side,

we

find the

composed of grey compact mountain

in which marine fossils and shells are
This limestone

found imbedded.

is

lime-

often

usually to be

seen contorted and twisted in every possible direction,

having apparently been uplifted and broken

through by the trappean rock from beneath, testifying

to the force of the convulsions of nature in former

days.

Actual and positive proof,

too, exists in the

present to prove that volcanic action

is still

at

beneath the surface of the Valley of Kashmir

work
for

shocks of earthquake are not unfrequent, although

there have been none of late
severity that in June, 1828,

and property

resulted, as

similar visitation
while,

some

when

also

fifty

years equalling in

great loss of

was the case

life

in

years anterior to this

going back some few centuries,

we

mentioned that similar phenomena occurred

find

it

in the

year 1552.

The

chief evidences of the former lacustrine state

of the Valley are undoubtedly the masses of shingly

conglomerate, the remains of beaches, deposited

in

upon the distorted limestone strata,

and on the faces of the kareewahs or eminences
horizontal layers

that form so striking a feature in the topography of

the Valley,

whose

characteristic flat

F 2

and uniformly

The Happy

68

Valley.

even surface can only be attributable to their having

been submerged for ages beneath the still calm
waters of a deep vast lake.
subject,

With

reference to this

and to the formation of these kareewahs,

General A.

Cunningham

writes

as

affording as he does a clear, concise

follows,

and

argument as

to

the correctness of the lake theory of the former

condition of the Vale,
his

own

"

The rocky

sixteen

He

words.*

miles

cannot do better than quote

writes as follows

below Tattamoola, and about

cliffs

below Baramula,

rise

almost per-

pendicularly from the river Jhelam to a height of

300 and 400

feet,

the bare steep

and

cliffs

is

some

places that

were not

As

above the stream.

near Tattamoola,

in

noticed

than 800 feet

less

the height of the Jhelam,

about 5,000 feet above the sea,

the whole of Kashmir must have been submerged

by the waters of the

of these

The

cliffs.

wearing down
level of the Kashmirian lake

river before the

would have been about 5,800 feet above the sea,

and from fifty to 100 feet above the kareewahs
or isolated alluvial

The

high

level

flats

now remaining

land of

in

Kashmir.

Martand was probably

not submerged, but the horizontal beach-marks are

'still

quite distinct on the limestone

* CUNNINGHAM'S Ladak.

cliffs

above the

Formation of

the

Kareewahs.

69

cave of Bhaumajo and the holy spring of Bawun.

Above

Ramoo-ke-serai, on the Shupiyan

kareewah forms a bank about 100

river,

the

feet in height, in

The uppermost

horizontal strata of different kinds.

twenty feet are composed of stiff alluvial soil the

next twenty feet of rolled stonefe and loose earth,
;

and the lowermost sixty of indurated blue clay.

The last must have been deposited by the lake in
its

state of quiescence, but the

middle stratum could

only have been formed by the

first

grand rush of

on some sudden burst of the rocky barrier

below Tattamoola, and the uppermost would have
waters,

been deposited by the subsiding waters as they

reached the newly- formed level.
Then, as the
rocky bed was gradually worn down, the different
streams worked

new channels

for

themselves

in the

former bed of the lake, until the present kareewahs

and Khanpur were left, first

the decreasing lake, and eventually as

of Nonagar, Pampur,
as islands in

long flat-topped
just as

As

we now

hills in

see them."

to the period in the world's history

lake existed, and what

its

the midst of the open plain,

shores,

we

its

this

manner of people inhabited

possess no authentic proof

as to the time of

when

desiccation, or

nor do

whether

we
this

process was due to the effect of a sudden formation

Tfie

70
of an outlet

Happy

through the

Valley.

Baramiila

drainage was the work of time.

history of the country, as laid
its

taringini,

drainage

but this book, like

is

all

nature relating to the

Pass,

or

its

According to the

down

in

the Raja-

said to have been sudden

other works of a similar

East and

a mixture of truth and fiction

its

is

early days,

a certain proportion

of truth mixed up with a larger mass of ridiculous

and fabulous accounts of the works of the gods

and

genii,

In

and legends concerning them.

Rajataringini mention

the

is

made

of the

existence of a large lake on the present site of the

Valley, from which account

was supposed
desiccation

to

have been

it

may be

left

inferred that

from the deluge,

it

its

being due to supernatural agency, as

explained in the following and still-credited legend

"

The

the

country was entirely covered with water, in

midst of which resided the

Dewala Deo, the

kind.

It

spirit-god

demon

Jala,

or

who preyed upon man-

happened that Kashuf, the son of Marichi,

and according to some the grandson of Brahma,

visited the country, lived in pious abstraction

Mount Sumer
to the desolate

the cause.
of Jala

Deo

upon

or Soma, and, turning his attention

The

appearance of the earth, enquired

people told him of the residence

in Sati Sar,

and

his predatory incursions.

Legend of
Kashuf
the

hill

71

lived a thousand years in austerity

upon

of Naubudan, near Hirapur, in consequence

of which
his

the Valley Drainage.

Mahadeo

(the great

Brahma

Vishnu and

servants

god or

creator) sent

to

the

expel

Vishnu was engaged in the conflict for one

hundred years, and at last opened the mountains at
demon.

Baramula, by which the waters were drained

off,

and the demon was exposed, taken, and slain,

whence the country is called Kashuf Sar, or 'the
lake of

the

Kashuf"

Hindu

is

the legend as given in

history of the country

similar story

as

Such

is

and a nearly

entertained by the Mussulmans, who,

have already remarked, affirm that the draining

Kashmir was performed by the prophet Suliman

(Solomon) through the aid of the same Kashuf,

of

who

they believe to have been a

'

gin/ or

spirit,

and

the attendant of that monarch.

No

actual proof exists that the valley

was sud-

denly converted from a lake to the condition

which we now behold

consideration the

it;

and

in

in fact, taking into

evidences afforded by such an

examination into the matter as any skilled geologist

is

capable

of,

the results obtained rather tend to

prove the contrary, and are well set forth by Vigne

He
himself, a skilled and most accurate observer.
fully believes in the tradition of the natives as to

The Happy

72

Valley.

the valley having been originally a lake of between

300 and 400

feet

in

depth

drainage was the work of time.

but holds that

From

its

observation

he inferred that the basaltic ridges around Kashmir

had been raised from beneath and through extensive
beds

deep ocean, and that the salt water of

the original lake must have gradually disappeared
under the influx of the numerous fresh-water streams
in the

from the mountains.

near the Bararmila

Further, that the mountains

Pass,

which would otherwise

have opposed the exit of the waters altogether

that quarter,

were rent asunder

other barriers, however, being

down
its

at the
left

same time
little

lower

sufficiently elevated to collect the alluvium, or

greater part, carried by the flood

which

in

became

choked with

further escape of

soil,

down

deposit,

the Pass,

preventing

and thus accounting

for the

in the

Valley as com-

pared with neighbouring countries.

Gradually the

great quantity of earth

still

waters from the newly-formed lake formed a deeper

channel for themselves, and occasional sudden subsidences in

carrying

its

level

were probably formed by the

away of some

part of the obstacles in the

Pass, evidence of this fact being afforded in certain

where the limestone has the appearance of

having been worn into a succession of shelvingparts,

The Jhelam.

As

beaches.

time

went

73

and owing

on,

to

the

gradual sinking, the level of the lake became lower,

poured themselves into

the bed of the river Jhelam, which gradually wore
the waters that once fed

itself

a channel

in

it

the lowest part, and thus con-

worked through the remaining obstacles

the Pass, and became the rapid, rushing torrent

centrated,
in

we now

see leaving the Valley, and the present

means of carrying
pouring down

off the superfluous waters

into

it

from the mountain

thus preventing a return to

always

sides,

and

former condition as

its

existing in pre-historic times.

When we come
this

now

to consider the actual history of

beautiful country,

with the usual

difficulties

into Eastern histories.

who

in

treating

we

are

met

attending

at the outset

all

researches

Historians there have been

of the

subject

carry

its

history

back to the day of creation, and assign to

it

the

honour of having been visited by the first living

man, even descending into details, affirming that
this

event occurred after the Fall.

the

Deluge,

events,

Solomon, and other characters and

known

writ, are freely

the subject of

Moses, Seth,

to

us through the word of holy

commented upon
its

early days,

in connection with

and are detailed

Rajataringini and other works.

in the

The Happy

74

Valley.

Space will not, however, permit me to dwell upon

what may have been the events of its earlier history;
for
fill

it is

a subject of abstruse speculation, and would

a volume of

Rather

itself.*

let

us confine our-

somewhat

selves to a cursory glance at the

we

authenticated shreds of history that

better

possess

relating to its earlier days, and, without entering

into dry details, take a slight sketch of

and of

its

became

from the time when

rulers,

merged

its

into

that

of

the

condition

its

interest

neighbouring

country of Hindustan, up to facts existing in the

recollection of

The

many

of

my

readers.

country of Kashmir, then, appears from

all

accounts to have been ruled from a very remote

period in the world's history by a long succession
of native princes, sometimes Hindu, and sometimes

perhaps of Tartar
essay on The

origin.

In Professor Wilson's

Hindu History of Kashmir, founded

on the before mentioned Rajatarangini (and of

which he states that, although its early part is
fabulous,

it

from about
accurate), a

gradually approaches consistency, until

A.D.
list

600 the chronology

of kings

is

given

who

is

perfectly

are said to

Any one who wishes for a more general acquaintance with the
ancient history of Kashmir should read Professor H. H. Wilson's
"Essay on the Hindu History of Kashmir." (Trans. Asiatic
vol. xv.)

Soc.,

Asoka.

have ruled

after

names have been

this list

we

75

whose

line of thirty-five princes

find the

name

others

Amongst

forgotten.

in

of Khagendra, supposed

have flourished some 500 years before Christ,

and who it appears was the first monarch who

to

founded a

came

Kashmir.

Following

several others, the last of

heir, the

kings,

city in

whom

throne reverted to the family of

its

former

and devolved on Asoka, descended from

Asoka

will

it

is

generally admitted

that this strenuous upholder of the then

Buddhism ruled

country,

The name

be familiar to those conversant with

the history of India, as

of

ruler

leaving no

the paternal great uncle of Khagendra.

of

this

about 250

new

faith

also over a great part of that

B.C.,

and

left

tokens of

his

existence in the form of those chiselled letters on

stone,

still

extant at Allahabad and elsewhere, and

usually termed Asoka's inscriptions or edicts.

His

son Jaloka succeeded him, and erected, as already

stated, the

temple on the top of the Takt-i-Suliman.

This brings us to about two centuries before the

Following him came several princes,
probably of the same line, one of whom, AbhiChristian era.

manyu by name, is stated to have introduced about

A
75 B.C. the Hindu religion into the country.
succession of Tartar princes are said to have ruled

The Happy

76

over Kashmir during the

and

for long

years

it is

century before Christ

last

However, we

after.

dwell on the subject of

the greater part of

Valley.

its

not

will

earlier history further, as

but mere supposition, except

to mention that a reference to Wilson's notice of

Kashmir, or Prinsep's

tables,

informs us what power

and importance Kashmir must have attained when

it was under the dominion of its Hindu monarchs.
was reserved

Still it
it

to that

to the

eminence of

account of which

station, the

has been transmitted to the present day.

therefore over several centuries,

we

at the year 1000, the time of the

Mahmud

to raise

Mogul emperors

will

life

Passing

now

arrive

of the Sultan

of Ghazni, whose invasion and conquest

of the greater part of- Hindustan marks the period

when

the authentic history of that country

said to

commence.

the founder of the

found time

This great and warlike prince,

Mohammedan

empire

in India,

in the intervals of his expeditions into

that country, which are said to have been

than twelve

permanent

may be

in

number before he

footing, to

make

less

established a

several similar preda-

In the two

tory incursions into Kashmir.

did not succeed in his object

season being far advanced

no

when

for,

owing

first

he

to the

the attempt was

made, joined to imperfect knowledge of the passes,

Mohammedans
his

army

He

was, however,

suffered

in Kashmir.
lives

many

defeat,

more fortunate

in

77
lost.

being

a later attempt,

and about the year 1015 he took possession of

the Valley, holding it and the surrounding mountains for

some considerable

time.

The Mohammedans do

not

have

appear to

established at that time a permanent footing in the

country, which reverted again to

under whose rule

its

Hindu

most probably remained,

it

authorities agree that

its

Hindu

king,

it

until

when most

the beginning of the fourteenth century,

and

kings,

was invaded from Tibet,

Sena Deva,

flying the country,

was superseded by the son of the monarch of the

land of the invaders,

who took

the

name

of Sada-

rudin on his accession to the throne of the coveted

From

Valley.

his time to the present

trace the history of the country

and

it

its

is

easy to

line of in-

dependent Mohammedan kings, its Mogul emperors,

and its Pathan rulers, until, conquered by Ranjit

became a part of the Sikh state, on their

downfall a British possession, and finally was
Singh,

it

handed over
First, as

to the family of the present ruler.

regards

its

line of

Mohammedan

kings,

Sadarudin was succeeded, as was often the case

in

those days in the East, by his prime minister, Shah

Mir,

who took

the

name

of Shumshudin,

and who,

The Happy

78

ascending the throne

considered as the

Valley.

in the

true

first

year 1341,

is

usually

Mussulman king of

his predecessor's conversion to that faith

Kashmir,

not being fairly authenticated.

His successors were

Jamshed and Ullahudin, his grandson, the

bigoted Shahabudin, who was succeeded by his
his sons

Kutabudin, the father of

brother

This

Sikunder But-Shikan.

the

execrated

latter personage,

made

of the most notorious iconoclasts of history,

it

the business of his

any

faith

life

one

to destroy all vestiges of

except his own, and to his exertions in

due the sorrowful

this direction is

fact that all the

ancient temples and other buildings in the

Happy

Valley are to be seen at the present day existing

only as a mass of ruins.

In the year 1423 came the best of the

line,

Zinulabudin, or Badshah, the great and good king,

whose

name

is

yet

reverenced

throughout

the

country over which he for more than half a century

exercised his beneficent sway.

owed much
duced the

of

its

To him

future prosperity, for he intro-

arts of weaving,

paper-making, and other

industries peculiar to the country

tants,

and

still

be shown a

Mohamed

the Valley

and

its

inhabi-

pursued at the present day, as

little

later on.

will

His great grandson,

Shah, succeeded him, but his

title

to the

The Chdkk.

79

throne was disputed by his uncle, Futteh Shah.

There now occurred

duration, the final

civil

strife

of

many

years'

consequence of which was the

entrance of another political party upon the scene,

their

advancement

to power,

and as the

consequent downfall and extinction

result the

of that

line

of sovereigns, the descendants of Yuftan, king of

Tibet.

This new ruling race was the old warlike

tribe of

the Chakk, the ancient warriors of Kashmir, at that

time a powerful race, but hitherto held in subjection

by the Mohammedans, until the family dissensions

broke out and enabled one of their number, named
Kaji, to seize the opportunity afforded
testine struggles,

of a foreign

and

free his country

by these

from the yoke

He commenced

invader.

in-

to

reign

about the year 1536, and his martial talents were

quickly called into play

for

soon after his accession

the country was invaded by the Kashgarris,

are said to have penetrated

tance

About

into
this

Kashmir

some considerable

Valley before their

the

final

who
dis-

defeat.

time also the fame of the country of

attracted the cupidity of the

Mogul

family,

then established as rulers over a greater part of

Hindustan.

It is

of that royal line

more than probable that members

had previous to this attempted its

The Happy

8o

Valley.

and on the authority of Abu Fuzl, it may

be mentioned that the generals of the Emperor
conquest

Baber, invaded the Valley in

natives

were

retreat.

later,

however,

Humayun, we come

son

his

powerful to

sufficiently

few years

but that the

1494,

to

cause

their

time of

in the

more authentic

monarch, on his second attempt, took

possession of the coveted country in 1540, the first
having been successfully resisted by Kaji, the Chdkk
details

for this

Mirza Hyder, a relation of the Mogul, and

to whose generalship he was largely indebted, was
king.

appointed the governor of the province, which appointment he held, however, only for a short time

for

an insurrection broke

and

slain.

out,

and he was defeated

This gave the opportunity for the Chakk

family to return to power, which they held through

the successive reigns of Ghazi Khan, Yusaf Shah,

and

son Yakub Khan.

his

During the time these

princes held rule over their native country,

were the attempts

Tartars,

Moguls,
enemies.

at

its

subjection

Kashgarris,

Fortune,

Turk's,

line,

Yakub Khan,

tracted resistance,

was

of the great Akbar,

and

other

however, did not favour the

invading arms until the year 1587,

of the

many
made by the

after

finally

when

the last

a brave and pro-

defeated by the armies

who annexed

it.

From

that

The Moguls.

81

time to the present day the Valley has always continued under a foreign yoke.

For over a period of a century and a half

Kashmir remained a portion of the Mogul Empire,
its affairs

being administered by a resident 'Subadar,'

Frequent were the

or governor.

House

bers of the

Akbar

province.

of Delhi to

is

and the

resided there during the

the

beautiful

summer

mem-

their fairest

this,

have visited

said to

times, while Jehangir

in succession

visits of

it

three

Nurmahal

for several years

and the death of the first-named took

place on one of his journeys thither, at Baramgalla,

a place

we have

already visited on our

it

often,

and

former presence

in

all

have

tion of the ruins that denote

the remains

and

owe

for with the excep-

earlier history, all

its

of gardens, groves, baths, fountains,

palaces, that are

Valley,

also

evidences of their

left

the country

to the

His successors

Vale by the Pir Panjal route.

visited

way

still

to

be observed

their origin to the lavish

cent tastes of the different

in

the

and magnifi-

members of

that truly

Oriental regal family.

The

decline of the

the capture

of

Mogul Empire, hastened by

Delhi by

Nadir Shah,

occasioned changes in the Valley

abortive attempts on the part of

in

1739,

and

after several

its

governors to

The Happy

82

Valley.

establish an independent rule,

year 1753 by

Ahmed Shah

it

was annexed

in the

Abdali, the successor of

the conqueror of Delhi, and included in the Dourani

Empire, which extended

those days as far as

in

From

the capital of the Punjab.

1753 to 1819

it

remained a portion of this empire, being governed

by Pathan governors, whose rule was neither mild
nor beneficial.

It

was with a

feeling of satisfaction

that the inhabitants of the country

change of masters which occurred

July of the latter year,

when

welcomed the

in the

month

of

the forces of Ranjit

Singh defeated the Pathans, and it became a part

of the Sikh dominions, remaining so until their
downfall, when, falling into the hands of the British

by

right of conquest,

the family of

its

after

five

medan

nearly

rulers for

it

was by them transferred

present ruler.
centuries'

Exchanging

experience,

to

thus,

Moham-

Hindu, Kashmir continued to be

governed pretty much as usual by representatives of

the Sikh monarch, who never visited it himself,

and whose principal object in its possession seemed

to be the squeezing out of it as much revenue as
its

falling fortunes

numerous

would

allow.

Thanks

to the

and the rapacity of its conquerors, the Valley of Kashmir was not the same
rich and fruitful country of former days, and the
invasions,

Brighter Days in Store.

little

was

that

83

was soon exhausted by the op-

left

pression of the minions of the lion of the Punjab.

Natural causes had also some

of the

devastation

Happy

share in the

little

for

Valley;

in

1824

occurred the terrible earthquakes, followed a few

years later by destructive floods, and an epidemic
of cholera so severe

and so general that

it

that 20,000 died of

in the capital alone.

All these

it

things naturally militated against

enjoyed, by

prosperity

it

when

number of

the

its

its

is

said

recovering the

accounts, in early days,

all

inhabitants

was ten times

the present population, disease and starvation, to-

gether with emigration, having terribly reduced the

census.

Brighter days are perhaps yet in store for

this

province

fair

when,

after

our

passed into
allowed
sessions,

it

but what

might have been

the dissolution of the Sikh empire, it

to

if

hands,

it

our government

had

remain a part of our Eastern pos-

can form a very good opinion.

author already quoted,

who

The

visited the Valley during

the time of Ranjit Singh, appears even then to have

becoming at some
possession, and states that its

been struck with the idea of

future time a British

its

would be looked upon as the accomplishment of the one thing needful for the consolidation of

acquisition

the British power in Northern India.

This augury

The Happy

84
as to the future

now

is

in a

Valley.

measure

fulfilled,

although

not actually by the occupation of the territory in

by our subsequent conquest of the

question, but

Punjab, and present administration of that country

and the parts adjacent, which, including Kashmir,

arejributary to our rule, and retained subservient to
our wishes.

But

not only to

political

or

strategical importance that our attention should

be

is

it

its

directed, but to the benefits that the English rule

(which with

the best intentions

all

in

the world can

never be approached by any native prince) would

have conferred on the country. For, to quote the
"

words of Vigne,

It is to

the arts of peace that this

be indebted for a more

fine province will

solid

and

though less gorgeous, celebrity than it enThe finest

joyed under the Emperors of Delhi.
breeds of horses and cattle of every description may
lasting,

be reared upon its extensive mountain -pastures,

where every variety of temperature may be procured for them
ductions

its

may be

capital in such a

vegetable and

treated

manner

with

artificial

British

skill

pro-

and

as to ensure an excellence

equal to those of Europe, and superior to that of

the neighbouring countries

Cornish miner
sures of

may

its iron,

while the tools of a

bring to light the hidden trea-

lead, copper,

and

silver ores."

All

Colonization.

European

when he

to-day as

this is as true

actual observation

85

wrote, and from

can endorse his every sentence,

and see the chance we wantonly threw away of

doing what seems impossible in India otherwisecolonizing a portion
It is

known

well

Eastern possessions.

our

of

to all conversant with Indian affairs

that,

unfortunately for us, our countrymen cannot

settle

down

India and bring up families, like our

in

representatives in our other colonies.

The

and other reasons forbid

attempt was

carried out

it

would

If the

it.

climate

result in such a deterioration

of our race as would bring them below the level of

we

and although it has been

suggested that the scheme would succeed in the
the people

rule over

Hills bordering our provinces, yet

feasibility;

question

its

the climate there, although better than

that enjoyed on the plains,

natural one to

Europeans

is

yet not a perfectly

while the space that

could be cultivated for their support would be limited

Now, no such factors exist against the

colonization of Kashmir by us or by any other
indeed.

European
desired

and

nation.

The

climate

is

all

that can be

sufficient land exists, which, properly tilled

would support any number; while

water is good, and distributed abundantly all over
the Valley.
In fact, nothing is left that could be
cultivated,

86

The Happy

desired to form,

by the means of our

and

Valley.
retired soldiers

a miniature England in the heart of

others,

Asia

a stronghold in time of war, held and guarded

by the

loyal sons of Albion, ever willing

own and

to shed their

and ready

children's blood in defence of

home, and the other provinces that together

form our Imperial dominion in the East.
their

But

it

was not

The

to be.

spirit that

huckstering

so often pervades our national policy, and which

caused the great Napoleon to apply to us the term

of a nation of shop-keepers, was dominant in this

case

for,

relinquishing

accrued to us

from

its

all

the

advantages that
the

possession,

supreme

government sold this fair province to the Rajah

Gulab Singh for the paltry and insignificant sum of
seventy-five lacs of rupees,

,750,000 in our money,

was assigned, known as

and the treaty by which it

the treaty of Amritsar, and dated i6th March, 1846,
will

be found set forth at length

such of

The

my

readers

prince to

already

who

whom

Appendix by

feel interest in

this

comex under our

in the

transfer

the subject.

was made has

notice in connection with

the town of Bhimber, and the death of

ruler

former

but as the founder of the present royal family

of Kashmir,
tory.

its

we

will

take a short glance at his his-

Descended from an old Dogra

family, squires

Gulab Singh.

87

or dependents of the ancient Rajahs of Jamoo, he

quarrelled with his rightful master, and after re-

maining a few years

in the service of the ruler of

Kishtawur, became, through the influence of his

Dhihan

brother

Singh,

a trusted

officer

the

of

Maharajah Ranjit Singh, the great Sikh monarch.

Obtaining a command, he proceeded against his
hereditary master, who, flying his capital without
resistance,

gave the opportunity

nexing the state

in

the

name

Further distinguishing himself

wars then taking

place,

Jamoo

Gulab of an-

of the Sikh ruler.

in

many

of the

hill

he was rewarded by Ranjit

with the sovereignty of his

rajahship of

to

in fief

own home, holding

the

under the court of Lahore.

This occurred about the year 1820, and

for

some

time afterwards he was fully occupied in consolidating and even extending his power.

he put down lawlessness

made

in his

With a

firm

hand

own dominion, and

and being ever ready to employ intrigue rather than force, he took advantage
it

a model state

of the dissensions always present

bours,

the

confiscated

quest of

petty
their

hill
fiefs.

Ladakh and

chiefs,

among

and

Having
Baltistan,

little

effected

there

his neigh-

by

little

the con-

remained

but one country to covet, the country of Kashmir,

and that soon

fell

into his hands.

During the war

The Happy

88

Valley.

kept himself entirely

Gulab Singh
aloof from Lahore politics,

and

appeared on the scene as

between the Sihks and the

after our victory

mediator between the two

British,

acquiring the

parties,

confidence of our government

to

the extent ex-

emplified by the cession of the Valley.

Dying

was succeeded by

the present

1857, he

his

son,

in

Maharajah Ranbir Singh, who was

at that time a

young man of twenty-seven years of

age.

for

the greater part

of

the

Residing

year at Jamoo,

he

annually visits the Valley, and sees for himself the

kingdom, which
is administered
by a governor, as in former days.
He is what may be termed, in comparison with the
state of affairs in this part of his

generality of Eastern princes, enlightened, studious,

and fond of the society of the pundits and other

clever men.
He is eminently religious, and in faith
is

an orthodox Sikh, being generally considered at

the present time the head of this sect of the Hindus.

He

is

also a great encourager of education, liberally

supports

all

religious works, and, according to his

lights, desires to act fairly

in this part of his

and honestly

dominions, aliens as they are for

the most part both in race and creed.

could be justly said of

future of

to his people

many

If the

same

of his advisers, the

Kashmir would, perhaps, look brighter

Divisions of the Country.

89

but with the best intentions in the world, the actual

many an Eastern

ruler* of
is

state

knows

transpiring, self-interest

really

little

of what

and self-aggran-

dizement being usually more powerful factors in the

deeds and acts of their servants and representatives,
than actual devotion to the good of their country,

and

faithful

duty to their master.

In ancient days the province was divided, for the

purposes of government, into two portions, which

'

were again divided into thirty-six pergannahs or

hundreds but within the last few years it has been
'

organized upon another plan, having been separated

into six 'wazarits' or districts,

up

into a

district

number of

'tehsils'

which are again

or parishes.

split

Over each

a 'wazeer' or deputy commissioner holds

sway, subject of course to the head governor,

who

takes his orders directly from the ruler of the state,

or acts on his

government

own

The system

responsibility.

and

appears to suit the people,

of
if

famines occur (and poverty generally appears to be

their portion), they

owe it

in a

measure to themselves,

indolence and selfishness being their usual characteristics,

although in justice to them

mention that very

little

fair to

it

is

only

inducement

is

held out to

cultivators to increase their holdings, the soil being

considered the property of the

ruler, as

usual in

The Happy

9O
native states

Valley.

and as he claims

of the crops, very

as his

due two-thirds

remains for the benefit of

little

This share of the land produce, and

various taxes on shawls and other manufactures,
the grower.

constitute the principal sources of the revenue of

the country, which, large in former days, has

now

dwindled down to the modest sum of half a million

or less per annum.

The Hindu code

of laws

is

and although mild, with

penalties not very severe, it appears to answer the

in

force in the country,

purpose.

Public order

are almost unheard of

more

particularly

is

property enjoyed by
Valley,

and the

is

well kept

and what

the
all

willing

strikes the visitor

security

who

serious crimes

of

person and

travel in the

assistance

and attention

afforded equally by the rich and lowly

inhabitants.

Happy

among

its

CHAPTER
Capital of Kashmir
Srinagar the Venice of the East

Srinagar,

the

The

habitants
in

the City

Kashmiris

Kashmiris

City Bridges

IV.

The Jhelam

Situation

Its

Want

of Cleanliness in the In-

General Aspect of the City

Population of the Valley

Its

Houses

Inhabitants

The

Beauty of the Women Character and Habits of the

The Hindus The Mohammedans The Hanjis The

Batal Caste

Dress of the Kashmiris

Origin of the Gipsies
Peculiar Style of dressing Hair Language of the Kashmiris The
Literature of Kashmir
Visit to the City
Its Public Buildings

The Boats of the Country Climate of the Valley Life in Srinagar

Summer Palace of the Maharajah The Ameeri Kadal Scene
on the Banks of the River
Singh

Transmigration of the Soul of Gulab

Fish and Fishing in Kashmir.

ET

us next pay a visit to the capital of this

fair

province,

now

called

Srinagar,

or

Suryea Nagar, meaning "the City of the

known by another appellation in

former days. Founded about the beginning
Sun," but

of the sixth century by the Rajah Pravarasene, the

present was

disused by the
the

country,

first

its

and ancient name

Mohammedans on

as

their

but being

conquering

savouring rather of Hindu my-

The Happy

92

thology, the city

the

country.

was termed Kashmir, the same as

For several centuries

until the

known,

Valley.

it

was thus

advent of the Sikhs, who, Hindus

themselves, restored the

Hindu

title,

by which

it is

at present called.

Situated about the middle of the Valley, but close

to the mountains bordering
is

its

north-western side,

upon both banks of the

built

river Jhelam, ex-

tending along the shores for nearly three miles.

stream

which may be termed the Venice of the

it is the main artery of traffic, and, sup-

city,

East

for

plemented by numerous

canals,

although a few

forms

the

chief

Streets proper do not

thoroughfare to any part.

exist,

This

of the utmost importance to the well-being

is

of the
;

it

dirty,

narrow, roughly-paved

honoured by this appellation.

Wheeled vehicles are unknown, and boats take their

lanes are,

believe,

by the medium of water communication

the affairs of life, whether of business or pleasure,

place, since
all

are carried out.

On

the edges of the water are

crowded the houses, and on

population
gregated,

of the

seem

city

pursuing their

its

banks the whole

to

domestic

females,

down

who appear

to

avocations

or

On

the ghats

to the river are

crowds of

exchanging the gossip of the day.

or steps leading

be always con-

be perpetually engaged

in

Uncleanly Habits of the People.

and other

93

utensils with the ele-

filling

large copper

ment

that flows at their feet, probably for culinary

purposes, decidedly not for ablution

for,

strange to

whose very doorsteps are

laved by the waters of a great river, and who have
never known the want of that which is so carefully
say, this race of people,

by the inhabitants of Hindustan, and other

utilized

for the

parts,

necessary cleansing of the person,

any such purpose

Familiarity
with water must have bred contempt for one of the
never apply

greatest

if

it

to

not the most useful of

personal washing

is

its

many

virtues

unknown, and from childhood

to old age they never so

employ

it

and instead of

a people that one would expect to find the cleanliest

of the cleanly, a short glance at their visible condition suffices to

inform the spectator that he sees

him human beings fashioned in the image of

for their manners and cusCreator, but, alas

before
their

toms, veritably the dirtiest of the dirty.

The

river as

by seven

it

flows through the city

bridges, which unite the

town, the Jhelam dividing

it

is

spanned

two halves of the

two equal portions.

construction, and are

into

All these bridges are similar in

formed of trunks of deodar driven into the bed of

the stream, with quantities of stone and rock dropped

around them.

These form the supports

for the

The Happy

94

Valley.

foundations of the bridge, composed of alternate

layers of stone
trees.

On

and the trunks of Himalayan cedar-

these again are laid the upper timbers of

some

the bridge, forming the road, which in

cases

is

covered with a layer of earth, with the addition of

Such

a railing on either side.

met with throughout the

the type of bridge

is

Six others span

Valley.

the Jhelam in various parts beyond the

and

city,

although rude they are strong, while the peculiarity

of

their

construction

them

renders

quaint and very appropriate

undeniably

to their general sur-

roundings.

The

general

picturesque,
buildings,

aspect of

bank of the

extremely

diversity of their forms, being

this result.
river,

Crowded together on

either

the houses present a long line of

structures varying in form, height,

many wood

is

city

the very irregularity of the rows of

and the

conducive to

this

and

material.

In

predominates, in others stone or brick,

the greater proportion

mixture of both.

being,

however,

happy

Their bases are a solid stone

wall of rough masonry, those with a better built

foundation owing that fact to the architect not having

scrupled to avail himself of the cut stone that in

former days entered into the composition of some

holy Hindu temple or other ancient

edifice.

This

The Houses.
foundation, affording a firm base,

95
is

raised

above the

or the probable level, of the highest floods

level,

which periodically happen in the Valley, and in

many cases is of extreme antiquity, having afforded
necessary support to a succession of superstructures.

Above

this

foundation

is

the wood, stone, or brick

building, of two, three, or

more

and often

stories,

projecting several feet over the water, being in

many

cases supported by props or uprights from beneath.

The

walls of the upper structure are usually built of

.brick,

burnt or sun-dried, and secured in a wooden

framework as a precaution against the disintegrating

effects of an earthquake.
Nearly all have a low,
sloping roof, with extended eaves or gable ends, and
they are rendered watertight by large sheets of birch
bark, which

over the

is

nearly impervious to moisture, laid

rafters,

while over this again

is

spread a

mixture of finely-broken stones and earth.

all

appear to have, particularly

river,

They

in front, facing the

very large window spaces, beautifully finished

trellis-work of diversified patterns taking the place

of frames, as the thin glazed paper of the country,

pasted over them from the inside, does that of

glass,

which appears,

if

not unknown, to be totally

unused.

commanding view of these

buildings,

which

in

TJte

96

Happy

Valley.

their irregularity afford in the sunlight such varied

and depths of shadow, is certainly one of

great beauty, and unique in character for the style
of Kashmirian architecture is decidedly peculiar to
lights

the country.

Above

ridges, varying in

their roofs

show the mountain

form as one follows the turns of

the river, which, alive with boats of every description,

together with the stone ghats that lead up from the

water thronged with people, lends

The

unfamiliar costume too,

culiarities,

confirms

the

and many other pe-

impression,

among

a strange

evidently differs in

of the

same family

many

already

we

evident from our surroundings, that

country,

to the scene.

life

are in a

so

new

and one that

people,

respects from the branch

located on the other side of the

Pir Panjal.

Of

Kashmir more

the 420,000 inhabitants of

than a third dwell in this city and

its

environs, the

population of Srinagar being estimated at 150,000

souls

but as no accurate census has to

ledge been taken of late years,

the

it

is

number of the people dwelling

towns or

in the

Valley generally.

know-

my

difficult to fix

either in

The above

the

figures

however may be taken as about the approximate

number and what a falling off they show in the
;

prosperity

of a

country

which

in

former

days

The Kashmiris.
reckoned

its

although

97

inhabitants by millions

am

for

it is

stated,

unable to vouch for the truth of the

assertion, that at

one time the number amounted

three

But wars,

have

millions.
all

done

pestilence,

and famine

work, and are the principal

their

causes of the depopulation of this naturally

spot

and even since

dire agencies

to

my

visit to

the Valley these

have caused further decrease

ranks of the Kashmiris

fertile

in the

for a terrible epidemic of

cholera occurred last year, followed by the inevitable

scarcity,

and

consequent concomitants of death

its

and the emigration of many of the

The

survivors.

actual inhabitants of this country are usually

styled Kashmiris, and physically are undoubtedly a

fine race, the finest

perhaps existing

in this part of

and the type of the old Aryan race, the stock

from whence they have sprung. Tall, strong, and
Asia,

stoutly built, the features of the

aquiline, with a wide, straight-up,

like the

although there

is

their origin with

Afghans

nothing

of

countenance

Jewish

in character,

known

any of the

are large and

and high forehead,

head, and a cast

a well -shaped

somewhat

men

that

would connect

tribes, lost

or otherwise,

of that celebrated nation.

The

bulk of the inhabitants are Mohammedans,

the Hindus forming only about one-seventh of the

The Happy

98

The two

population.

Valley.

possess marked characteristics,

distinguishable from each other notably as regards

their complexion,
is

that

generally

Italians,

which

of the

fact

among

of a fair and ruddy

they attribute

disuse of animal food

ascribe their

is

found

as

olive,

but in the Hindus

character,

Mussulman Kashmiri

in the

to

their

general

while the natives generally

own beauty

to the peculiar softness

of the water of the Valley.

The beauty

of the

women

of

ancient and world-wide reputation

Kashmir
and

is

of

certainly, as

many of them
man to exclaim, as

a well-known author remarks,

are

handsome enough

did

to induce a

the Assyrian soldiers

"Who

of Judith,

when they beheld

would despise

have among them such women

this

only excepting

country,

classes,

no concealment of the

people that

this

?"

As

among

there

the

features,

good opportunity of judging of the

the beauty

is

in

highest

one has a

truth of the

generally -accepted assertion as to their loveliness,

which
to

for

my own

part

any great degree.

ugly women, both

the Valley

in

do not consider overrated

One

certainly sees

some very

Srinagar and in other parts of

but these are generally of a certain age,

and have led a

Taking them

life

all

of

toil,

round,

scanty

among

fare,

and exposure.

the lower classes,

The Women of Kashmir.

man

'

'

which, with the

panditanis

caste, are the

99

belonging to the Brah-

ones the visitor sees the most

of,

the higher classes being, as elsewhere in the East,

very inaccessible, they are

and enough so

in

many

all

usually good-looking,

undeniably handsome.

considered

them

cases to entitle

They

be

to

are

tall

and well-grown; and not possessing that slimness of

figure, and the marked delicacy which distinguishes
the females

of

style

rather

deserves the appellation of fine than elegant.

Their

complexion

India,

their

general

that of the brunette, with a

is

of pink and white on the cheek

among

good deal
the upper

which assumes a healthy brown and red in

the lower, accustomed to exercise and hard work.
classes,

All,

however, possess a pair of large almond-shaped

hazel eyes, and a set of white and regular teeth,

such aids to general beauty

in

the female face

whilst long black eyelashes add natural brilliancy

and softness
wanting

to

to the organs of sight,

complete

unbeautifying effects in
misery,

and the

mencement of

the

picture.

many

that

this chapter, generally covers

Kashmiris

the

Despite

dirt which, as stated at the

the

is

cases of poverty and

and which has led an author and

remark

and nothing

artist

reminded

comthem,

lately to

him

of

beautiful ancient statues not yet cleaned from the

The Happy

ioo

Valley.

earth in which they had lain buried for ages, their

title

beauty must justly be conceded, and a

to

woman may

Kashmiri

among
liest

In

handiwork

the female

and

faults.

They

be met with

their

are

divine.

seem

never to fight

and,

and that means a

world where the inhabi-

to imbibe the talent of lying

mother's milk.

ever

decidedly cowardly,

most inveterate

the

in the East,

in a part of the

tants generally

in

human form

have some good

but these are outnumbered by their fail-

good deal
with

places

Kashmiris

character the

liars to

first

her sex as a fine example of nature's love-

qualities,

ings

claim one of the

They

are

as

a race

ready to wrangle,

but

threatened by their superiors

if

any way, cry and act

after the

manner of

children,

consequently are not to be depended on to bear

themselves well against any physical danger.

are decidedly clever

and cheerful

in

They

and ingenious, and talkative

disposition

but their selfishness,

ignorance, and their intriguing,

false,

and dishonest

have caused hard things to be said of

them by other nations, which undoubtedly they in
a measure richly deserve. My own opinion, gleaned
qualities,

from actual experience, decidedly suggests the idea

upon the whole the general character of the

inhabitants of the Happy Valley is not an elevated

that

Caste in Kashmir.
one,

and

far

from being

in

101

keeping with their poetic

surroundings.
o

The

country people do not

way from the dwellers in

we find in Srinagar more
with a tendency to

much

differ

in

any

towns, although certainly

variety in the inhabitants,

up into castes, most of

which are based, as in India, on the hereditary transmission of occupations.
First, and distinct from all
the
in

of

rest,

the

split

who number about

are the Hindus,

city,

most of

whom

whom, whatever

appellation of

are Brahmans, and to

their occupation,

Pundit, a

38,000

title

is

all

applied the

other parts only

in

assumed

by those Brahmans learned in their

It is certheology and the expounding thereof.
tainly curious that all the Kashmiri Hindus, the
remainder of the once great and ancient nation,
are of this caste, and leads one to the supposition
that the greater part of the population
ally

Brahman, a conclusion also indicated

into consideration the terms in

spoken of
it

were

in the early

which

this

Sanskrit writers,

if

origin-

we

take

country

is

who mention

always as a country of learned men, such as un-

doubtedly were originally

division of society.

they are not

all

At

the

members

of this

the present time, however,

learned

tailors,, cloth-sellers,

all

men

although

many
a

are writers,

goodly

number

The Happy

IO2

follow their ancient calling,

and favoured
and

class.

Valley.

and are an

Their exertions

influential

in

teaching,

their attempts to foster their ancient literature,

are most praiseworthy, and in both they are aided

by the head of the present dynasty, who, belonging

himself, as a follower of the

of the

Hindus,

division

of

naturally

his

subjects;

Sikh

religion, to a sect

rather

Hindus

the

to

inclines

this

generally,

although few in number, are undoubtedly at present

the favoured class in the Vale of Kashmir.

The remainder
stated,

Mohammedans, and

We

are numerous.
these
in

of the inhabitants are, as already

families,

the tribes and families

have already seen how one of

the Chakks, or warrior

class,

assumed

former days regal power, but of later years they

degenerated into mere banditti, and were hunted

down
that

so unmercifully that few remained.

were

left

'guluwans,'

are

or

'

now known by
horse -keepers/

Those

the appellation of

and

follow

the

more peaceful occupation of tending herds of cattle

upon the margs,' or downs, where later on we will
'

visit their

There

homes.

is,

however, another class which deserves a

few words, for they are numerous and conspicuous,

and are the section of the Kashmiris with

visitors to the

Valley come most

in contact.

whom
I

refer

Boats and Boatmen.

to

'

the

hanjis/

boatmen

or

103

and as the

and lakes are the chief highways

canals,

country,

naturally follows that as a

it

river,

the

in

body they are

numerous and of some importance. They are a

fine race, for both men and women have bodies
well developed

by the hard

paddling the boats, which

The

their living.

the greater part of

and

means of earning

their

boats form also their homes, for

them pass

know no

board, and

is

labour- of towing

their lives entirely

other dwelling-place.

on

They

are ready and willing to act as servants to English-

men

always customary to engage a number

is

it

them and a boat during one's stay in the Vale,

and being active and obliging they prove of great
of

service.

and

try

They

are,

it

is

by every means

much out

true, excessively

in their

power

to

greedy,

make

of their employers as they possibly can.

This after

all,

however, one expects, for

cannot

say that they are alone in this respect after

experience

of

India,

Indian

India,

we

and

servants,

find a class or caste

vided those

who do

and country.

They

from among

the unclean

the

whose members

are outcasts from the general community.

this is the Batal caste,

my

In Kashmir, as

natives of that country generally.

in

as

whom

work

in

Here

are pro-

the towns

also supply the ranks of the

The Happy

IO4
musicians
ability to

Valley.

and dancing girls, whose beauty and

sing and dance are renowned throughout

the Valley, and in the adjacent countries

but the

decrease in the general prosperity of their native

land has affected even their fortunes.

somest and most accomplished of

now

to be

The hand-

this

are

class

found pursuing a not immaculate

life

at

Lahore, and other towns of the Punjab, rather than

at

These

Srinagar.

Batals

are

descendants of the aboriginal

said

to

inhabitants

be the
of the

country before the advent of the Aryans, and there

are

some grounds, reasoning by the analogy

other places, for the truth of this assertion.

certainly differ

from the

of

They
who

rest of the inhabitants,

hold them in the greatest contempt, and have rather

manners and appearance of that ubiquitous

That they are similar in many
tribe, the gipsy.
the

respects to the gipsies

is

an undoubted

fact,

and

authors interested in this vexed subject consider

it

probable that the gipsies, whose religion partakes

somewhat of the Buddhist form, and whose

guage

is

that of India, with

intermixed,

may be

many

lan-

Sanskrit words

the descendants of Kashmiris

driven from their native country in former days, by

the persecutions attendant upon a change of rulers
of foreign creed and tongue.

Costume.

105

Every country has its own peculiar national costume and the country we are treating of is not
;

behind others

in this respect, but, unlike

many whose

becoming and picturesque, adding to the

grace and dignity of the wearer, that of the inhabitants of Kashmir is decidedly the reverse
in one
dress

is

word,
this,

it

may be

called

undeniably hideous.

however, they are not to blame.

For

In ancient

days they possessed a distinct and more appropriate

costume,

Akbar

which

was forbidden

by the emperor

after his conquest of the Valley,

about the

end of the sixteenth century, and replaced by his

order by the present dress, which from that time
has undergone no material

The

usual

dress of the

change or

men

is

alteration.

a pair of loose

drawers, and a long, loosely-fitting shirt or smockfrock, reaching

or

from the neck to the ankles

more generally a

they are either

plaited

of

originally

is

and

shoes are worn,

untanned

Formed

white,

but

from

or of

hide,

of cotton for

universally worn,

the Hindus,

never

being

dirty brown, the dress of the

presents nothing attractive.

among

if

a turban,

of woollen material for winter, in

washed usually of a

men

rough,

grass and string.

summer wear, and

colour

skull cap

Such as

it

is,

it

except by the richer classes

who adopt

a somewhat similar

The Happy

io6

costume
of the

The

to their brethren in Hindustan.

women

is

similar to that of the

loose shirt with sleeves

diversity in colour

the

Valley.

first

-named

for

men

dress

a long,

presenting however more

it

may be

red, blue, or green,

rather

appearing

the

favourite

Their heads are covered with a small cap,

usually surrounded with a fillet of red cloth and
hue.

the richer females have in addition a 'chudder' or

shawl thrown over their heads and shoulders, which

in

most Eastern countries

is

to conceal

employed

the features from the gaze of strangers

but rarely

so in Kashmir, where such a custom obtains only

among those of the very highest rank. The Hindu

women also wear in addition a white rolled cloth
tied loosely
in

India,

round the

waist, and, like their sisters

adornment of

incline rather to the

their

persons with bangles, ear and nose rings, and other

articles of jewellery.

This

most marked

is

case of the

'

perhaps the

prettiest, the cleanest,

fact

which

and best-dressed

whole country.

remains to be mentioned as regards

their costume,
hair,

the

punditanis,' the wives of the pundits,

class of the fair sex in the

One

in

is

and that

is,

peculiar,

attention of the stranger.

usually confined

to

the

the

and
It

mode

of dressing the

is

sure to attract the

is,

however,

unmarried

girls,

believe,

as after

107

Language.

entering into the holy state they are said to become

rather indifferent as regards their personal appear-

which we must certainly except

The hair, which with
those of the higher classes.

ance, a slur from

them,

rather

although

quantity,

abundant

is

coarse,

in

and usually of a glossy black colour, is

the back of the head, and finely braided

drawn

to

into a

number

These are

of separate plaits.

all

gathered together, and their terminations mixed and

worked up with coarse woollen thread into a large
thick pigtail-like plait, to the extremity of which,
for ornamentation, a long black tassel of thread

is

suspended.

The language
peculiar,

and

of the Kashmiris

distinct

is,

like their dress,

from that spoken

India, or of the adjacent countries.

any part of
may be con-

in

It

sidered a patois rather than a language proper, and

there

is

a harshness and uncouthness about the

pronunciation which betrays

styling

it

'

'

prakrit

it

as such.

Vigne, while

of Sanskrit, asserts that he

was

on good authority, that out of every hundred

words of Kashmiri a quarter will be found to be
told

Sanskrit, forty will be Persian, ten Arabic,

and the

remainder made up with Hindustani, Tibetan, and

the languages of other adjacent countries.
to pronounce,

and

difficult to acquire,

it is

Difficult

generally

The Happy

io8

Valley.

incomprehensible to strangers

but that

of

is

little

account to those familiar with the dialects of India,

for the inhabitants of the Valley are

good

linguists,

most of them speaking Hindustani or Punjabi, while

many of the tradespeople and others who are thrown
into contact with the
fair

European

visitors

speak very

English.

From language we
literature.

Little

naturally pass on to consider

can be said on

country does not boast of

much

this point, for the

of-

that evidence of

a nation's civilization and progress.

They

certainly

have a few ancient works of high intrinsic value,

notably the before mentioned Rajtaringini, their

some

great historical work, the Nila Parana, and

some dramas mostly written in the

Sanskrit character, although
o some are in the Persian.

others, including

did not see

them

myself, but

it is

some

stated that

of the manuscripts are written on the bark of a tree,

betokening great antiquity.

efforts of literature
I

am

work

own

these ancient

they appear to be content

not aware, although

in their

With

may be wrong,

ascertained,

for

of any

language, nor of any of recent

years in any other, attributed to a Kashmiri.

what

From

should imagine that the pun-

and other learned men occupy their minds in

studying that which was produced long before their
dits

109

Srinagar.

time, rather than adding to the store for the benefit

of the scholars of the future.

We
more

will

now pay a

in detail

visit to

the

city,

and examine

the dwellings and other edifices of the

Kashmiris, at which as yet

we have

only taken a

exist to attract attention,

But few public buildings

and they possess little or

no architectural

There

brief

and cursory glance.

interest.

however, some

are,

ancient mosques, temples, and cemeteries that will

repay the trouble of examination, and the bazaars,

and shops of the various handicrafts are well worthy

of a survey, for their contents in

many

instances

are both curious and peculiar to the country.

this

purpose a boat

foot the

neither

is

necessary.

so-called streets

is

None

who can

For

traverse on

well avoid

it,

there any necessity that they should, for

the places that are likely to be honoured by our

attention are

all

situated on the river-side, Srinagar

being a city of great length, but with

Of

little

breadth.

boats there are several varieties, according to

the purpose for which they are required, and the

visitor

would do well

for the

term of his stay at

to

engage one with

this place,

its

crew

if

he be

though,

not so inclined, plenty are to be hired for the day

or trip at reasonable rates, as will be seen

ference to

Appendix

v.,

by rewhere these are given on an

no

The Happy

Valley.

document supplied by the Punjab government, and which in addition contains certain rules
official

and regulations for the guidance of strangers. First

we have the doongah,' a large long flat-bottomed
'

boat between
nearly six

in

fifty

and sixty

breadth

for

feet

half

in
its

length,

length

and
it

is

by matting, supported on a wooden

framework, with side curtains of the same material,
covered

in

which can be kept down or rolled up as required.

This portion of the boat,
is

large

enough

to

articles of furniture,

by the traveller,
contain a bedstead, and other
and

utilized

is

as sheltered

fortable to reside in for a time as

hinder part of the boat

who

is

any

home, and reside

in

it

tent.

in possession of

with their wives and families

all

and com-

The

the crew,

make

the year round.

it

their

Both

men, women, and children take part in the navigation of the vessel, which down stream is propelled

by heart-shaped paddles, and drawn up stream by

the united aid of the whole family harnessed like

towing rope. There are several

other large boats, such as the bangla,' a species of
pleasure barge, and the baht,' used only for carrycattle

to a long

'

'

ing grain, wood, or other merchandize; but they are

rarely

if

ever used by Europeans,

who on long

journeys engage the firsj;-named, with a second for

Climate and Temperature.

and

their servants,

for excursions

for general use at Srinagar,

1 1 1

to the

or

city,

one called a

'shikara,'

same shape as the doongah,' but very much

smaller and lighter in every respect.

of the

'

The
noon

usual time for visiting the city

for at that period of the

sented during the row

and

down

the after-

is

day the scene pre-

the river

is

at

its

best

the whole population seeming to be

liveliest,

and bent on business or pleasure, although

there is nothing to prevent us from sallying out
astir,

at

any period of the twenty-four hours, the sun not

Kashmir the powerful enemy we seek

being

in

avoid

in India.

The weather

in the

for the greater part of the year,

and admirably adapted

The

tion.

to the

is

Happy

European

by ascending higher and

from

Norway

or

continent.

constituis

agreeable

visiting

coolness

other northern

The months

is

obtainable

some mountain
the

to

cold

of our

portions

of July and

It is

this

of

own

August are

decidedly the hottest, and are particularly so

at Srinagar,

very

South of Europe, although

of course any range of temperature

retreat,

Valley,

truly delightful,

climate of the lower portions

similar to that of the

to

felt

which then becomes very unhealthy.

usual to resort to

unpleasantness

some other

part to avoid

Gulmarg or Sonamarg being

The Happy

ii2

Valley.

we

favourite localities for this purpose, places

visit in

The

company

further on.

winter season, like

marked

shall

the others,

all

is

pretty

and during the last

month of the year, and up to the end of January,
it is cold, with frost
the lakes and ponds being

well

in

the Valley

sometimes even frozen over.

There

monsoon or wet season

India, although the

surrounding
rains,

mountains

as in

are

subject

no actual

is

to

periodical

occurring about the same time as

former country, and the

fall

of rain and

the

in

snow

in

by no means excessive, although

frequent showers, and sometimes even heavy storms
occur, very similar to those which we are accustomed
the Vale

itself is

to nearer

home.

Nothing therefore
going about at

in

the weather prevents our

any time of

the

already mentioned, the afternoon

City

life

pleasantly,

at
if

Srinagar flows

somewhat

lazily

is

day

but,

as

usually selected.

on very
;

easily

and

the mornings are

usually taken up with eating, smoking, visiting, and

gossiping with one's friends and neighbours, and

bargaining with the different merchants,

bring to the location of the

who

visitors, for sale,

daily

every

description of article for the manufacture of which

the Valley

is

famous.

Palace of the Maharajah.

1 1

Descending from the high path on the side of

the river in front of our quarters, down rude steps
cut in the bank,

we

step on board the

'

'

shikara

or

small boat that awaits us, and give the order to

paddle

down

to the city.

Reclining on the cushions

or shawls spread at the bottom of the craft under

the awning, for of seats there are none,

comfortable enough, and as

we

we

glide gently along,

are able to notice anything worth observing.

The

object that strikes our attention, after passing

first

the houses of the British Resident and other

is

are

a large square building, with a verandah

hung with gaudy-coloured

'purdahs,'

officials,

all

round,

and surrounded

by a stone wall, which also encloses a small garden.

Situated on the left bank of the river, in the curve
of a wide bend the stream
this spot, this is

and

is

in

summer
visits

makes

a striking and picturesque object,

reality the

abode of

royalty,

palace of the Maharajah,

it.

There

the building

in its course at

is

occasionally

nothing very remarkable about

which

itself,

who

being the

is

of recent construction

but the rooms in the interior are curious, the walls

and

formed entirely out of papierfor the production of which this

ceilings being

mache, an

article

country has long been famous.

edifice the river

resumes a

After passing this

'straight course.

Soon

The Happy

14

on the

,after,

left,

Valley.

a ghat or landing-place

we come

leading to the parade-ground, and then

Ameeri Kadal, the

to the

commences the

Row

Rotten

well

known

of Srinagar.

bridge, near

first

seen

is

which

avenue,

poplar

Next we

the

enter upon a

wide piece of water, with either bank crowded with

houses

for this

The

proper.

for boats of

directions,

is

the

commencement

scene here becomes lively enough

every description are scattered

good general idea

duties not performed in the

with those that

possess no windows,

doors

is

in all

and of the manners and customs of the

inhabitants a

visible

of the city

all

are
that

is

open
;

for
is

be obtained

to

air are equally

houses

the

as

transpiring within

As

perfectly free for our inspection.

as one can judge, the

great majority

of

the

far

general occupation of the

men seems

to

be

idling

about, gossiping and washing their teeth, or rather

cleaning them with a piece of stick, like the natives

of India, about the only personal act of cleanliness

of which they seem to be guilty.

The weaker

sex seem to be more busily employed

in

washing

culinary articles in the stream, exchanging at the

same

time, in the shrillest of voices, the gossip of

the day with their friends and acquaintances.

however, are engaged in harder and

more

Some,
profit-

Fish of Kashmir.

1 1

and are busily employed in grinding

which is done in the primitive fashion of

able labour,
corn,

pounding

it

with a thick heavy pole, the excavated

hollow of a large stone serving as a mortar.

Many

of the shawl and other merchants have

houses overlooking the

river,

and about

time

this

are to be seen busily engaged tempting our fair

countrywomen with the varied products of the

Kashmir loom and needle. The fishermen are also
hard at work, plying their avocation

for fish

a great proportion of the food of the poorer

forms

classes,

and a famine was nearly created a short time ago by

an order being issued that none were to be caught

and

Maharajah having been informed

that the soul of his father had entered into the body
eaten, the

of a trout, and
of his

was swimming about near the scenes

To

former triumphs.

avoid the sacrilege

of destroying the blissful future of

edict

went

forth, that

must be used

but as

Gulab Singh, the

other articles of food only

soon appeared that

it

servance would be productive of

much

its

ob-

misery,

it

was rescinded, and the safety of the transmigrated

soul of the former ruler of Kashmir left to the care
of the providence that watches over such matters.

There are

five or six different varieties of fish in the

Valley, but the

most common of
i

all

is

the

Hima-

1 1

The Happy

layan trout, a

Valley.

fish that varies

so

much

in colour

and

appearance, according to age and season, that there

would appear
only.

It

to be several species, instead of

very sluggishly at the

rises

fly,

one

and the

gentle craft would appear to be unprofitable em-

ployment,
it

many

although

of the

visitors

pursue

with an energy worthy of a better cause.

other varieties of the

tribe

finny

are

The

a smaller

species of trout,

and some that resemble the white

mullet of India

and there

also a

is

little

white

fish

with a bluish back, a few inches long only, which

seems to be very abundant. At Sopoor, and also at

other places, good mahseer fishing is to be ob'

tained,

and

in

Indian salmon

'

the capture of this noble fish

the

the angler forgets the poor sport

by the other varieties of fish in the Valley,

and meets a foeman worthy of his rod and spear.

afforded

CHAPTER

V.

The Embankment of the River The Sher Garhi Fort and Palace
The Kashmirian Army Family of the Maharajah The Sunt-iKul Canal The Kut-i-Kul Canal The Mar Canal The Habba
Kadal The Fati Kadal The Shah Hamadan Musjid Story of
its Founder
The Bagh-i-Dilawur Khan The Zaina Kadal The
Badshah The Jumma Musjid The Mint Coinage of Kashmir
The New Mosque Evidences of former Hindu Temples The
Religion of Kashmir Naga or Snake Worship Buddhism
Jainism Brahmanism Mohammedanism Forcible Conversion of
Natives of the Valley Its effect on the Origin of the Gipsies The
Ali Kadal The Bulbul Lankar The Naya Kadal
The Suffa
Kadal The Eedgah The Noor-Bagh Office of Executioner
Termination of Trip through

:URSUING

City.

our course

sides of which

the river

the

former days were em-

in

banked from the

down

first

to the last bridge,

an embankment composed
of limestone, of which at

by

of large blocks

ruined remains are

to a large building, the

palace.
river,

that

all

is

which flows along

left
its

bank,

the

we soon come

left

Sher Garhi, the

Situated on the

present

it

city fort

and

presents to the

eastern side, a long loop-

holed wall, with bastions rising between twenty and

1 1

The Happy

8
feet

thirty

Valley.

above the general

of the water,

level

surmounted by roomy, but lightly-built, houses. Its

southern and western sides are protected by a wide
ditch

and

the Kut-i-Kul canal bounds

in its interior are

houses for the

offices,

it

on the north,

grouped a number of dwellingof the court, government

officials

and barracks.

On

its

wall, facing the river,

and perched upon one of the bastions, is a large

double-storied house, the abode of the Dewan or
Prime Minister, and just below

his residence

is

long lofty building, the government treasury, containing shawls, 'pushmeena,' coin,

and other valuable

property.

A curious-looking wooden

building comes

next, the

Rang Mahal

hall,'

or 'audience

the royal residence, which

Baradarri,

and which

is

is

just

below

it,

a part of
styled the

unquestionably the most

important modern structure

in

It

Srinagar.

is

large irregular building of a peculiar style, for while

one portion, with a

large projecting bow, partakes somewhat of an
European character. A flight of wide stone steps

partly of native architecture,

up from the water's edge

building, and conducts into the

leads

is

at the angle of this

palace.

Adjoining

the temple frequented by the ruler and family,

called the Maharaj-ke-Mandir, the

which

is

domed

roof of

covered with thin plates of pure gold,

The Kashmirian Army.

which

in

glitters

the

sunlight,

119
it

causing

To

plainly perceptible a long distance away.

the

of

interior

the

palace,

be

to

reach

one ascends by the

before -mentioned steps, which at

all

times of the

day appear thronged with people, some waiting

to

prefer petitions to the sovereign or his ministers

as they descend to their boats, others to obtain a

hearing or justice, which

is

here administered in

To

open court daily by the governor.

the

more

private portion of the palace they have no access

guarding the gateway at the top of the stairs

which leads directly into the royal abode, stands a

for,

sentry, a warrior belonging to the Kashmir, army,

and near by
in

is

the guard-room, what

we

should

call

our service the main-guard.

Most

of the

or rather the

Jamoo

men comprising the Kashmirian army,

army of the

territories, are

ruler of the

Kashmir and

Dogras, Gilghitis, and other

inhabitants under his sway.

The

denizens of the

Valley are rarely admitted into

its

ranks, their pro-

and timidity

in

any danger pre-

verbial cowardice

venting them from making good or reliable soldiers.

The

artillery

musters only about thirty guns, and

the cavalry force

is

also small, the nature of the

country in which they are called upon to serve

forbidding their general employment.

The

infantry,

The Happy

I2O

make up

however,

Valley.

for the deficiency

for they are

probably not less than 15,000 in number, a respectable

force

so small a country, but requisite,

for

being required to garrison Ladak, Gilgit, and other

portions of the Maharajah's dominions,

all

of which,

acquired by the sword, require to be held in subjection

by the same weapon.

Service in the

a pretty popular profession

officers,

well

who

paid

are

treated,

fairly dressed,

their duties are

to

be well drilled

last degree, the officers

command

We

the

believe,

in the

went over

it,

even

English language.

interior of the palace contains nothing

remarkable.

is

both after the British fashion,

which they copy to the

The

and

They appear

light.

using words of

men and

native gentlemen, are,

and well

comparatively

and

all

for the

army

very

accompanied by the

Babu, but of course were not admitted to the more

What we

private apartments.

what

is

to be seen

in all

did see was only

Eastern palaces

large

and smaller rooms, gaudily decorated, with

numerous mirrors and chandeliers of coloured glass,
halls

the only difference in this particular instance being

that the walls

and

ceilings

with papier-mache,

and devices.
Maharajah, the

The

were made of or covered

painted

in

different patterns

eldest of the three sons of the

Mean

Sahib, Pertab Singh, has also

121

Tfie Canals.

and

his residence within the walls of the palace

but
it

it

is

fort,

needs no mention further than to remark that

similar to his father's,

on a very much smaller

scale.

Immediately opposite to the palace, the Sunt-iKul or apple-tree canal opens into the river, one
'

'

of the few that traverse the interior of the

city.

This particular one leads to the Drogjun, or gate

of the city lake, and

navigable

for

ing along

its

boats

is

well worth visiting.

throughout

its

winding course some

length,
fine

It is

show-

plane and

other trees on either bank, making a beautiful combination with the placid water at their feet and the

The Kut-i-Kul
rugged mountains behind them.
canal is another watercourse on the left, just below
the palace, which passes through the western portion

embracing some of its most squalid parts.

But the most interesting of all these watery high-

of the

ways

city,

Mar

the

is

place in Srinagar.

canal,
It

perhaps the most curious

flows from the lake

tersects the northern portion of the city

narrowness,

arched

its

walls

of stone,

and

in-

and

its

its

heavy singleand
bridges,
landing-places of the same

material,

joined to the gloomy passages leading

down upon
the lofty

betoken the greatest antiquity, whilst

but half-ruinous-looking houses on either
it,

The Happy

122

bank seem ready

water.

Many

to

Valley.

topple

travellers

down

over

into the

have remarked that

it

bears

a close resemblance to one of the old canals in

Venice, and certainly, although far inferior in architectural beauty,

it

is

very

and perhaps not

similar,

without pretensions to equal singularity.

down

further

the

we come

river

to

little

Habba

the

Kadal, the second bridge, which in former days

was not unlike Old London Bridge, on a smaller

scale
for a row of wooden shops ran along both
;

its sides,

ever, all burnt

never been

The
on the

These were, how-

overhanging the water.

down

a few years back, and have"

rebuilt.

Fati Kadal

bank

right

is

the next bridge, and below

situated the

is

it

Shah Hamadan

Musjid, one of the most elaborate mosques in the

country, and perhaps the most celebrated.

greater
built of

Like the

number of the mosques in Kashmir it is

wood (usually that of the Himalayan cedar),

and covered

in

various points

with a projecting roof, on which at

bells

are

hung

while,

unlike

generality of the edifices devoted to the

medan

religion,

a golden

instead of the usual crescent.

the date of

its

erection

but

it is

Moham-

placed on

ball is
I

am

the

its

top

not certain of

considered of great

importance, and a holy shrine by the

Mussulman

oO

Shak Hamadan.
population, who,

123

understand, fully believe in the

legend as regards the Shah Hamadan,

founder.

The

story runs thus

true descendant

Hamadan, a

Syud

its

reputed

Ali, or

Shah

of the prophet, on

account of the persecutions his party endured at

the hands of their king, the ruler of Samarkund,

being able, by virtue of his sanctity,

to transport himself through the air to Kashmir,
fled his country,

Having descended on the spot where the mosque

now stands, he ordered the Hindu fakir, or holy
man, who was there located, to depart.

who

fakir,

certainly possessed claims to priority of occu-

upon which Shah Hamadan

he could bring him news from heaven,

pation, declined to
said,

The

That

if

do

so,

he would admit that he was a great man, and leave

him in peace. This he gladly consented to do and
;

having numerous idols under his care, he despatched

one towards heaven.
Shah Hamadan, however,
kicking off his slipper, struck

it

with such force that

ground before much progress

upwards had been made. After this feat they fell

the image

fell

to the

into conversation, in the course of

which the

fakir,

was so great a man through the

performance of charitable actions, was deemed by

stating that he

opponent worthy of being made a convert to

Islam.
This was accordingly done and his con-

his

The Happy

124

Valley.

version was the means of the conversion of a

of Hindus, his disciples,
his

example.

The

who immediately

fakir,

number

followed

assuming the name of

Sheik Baba Wuli, lived afterwards

in great piety,

promulgating the doctrines of his new religion

and

a penance of forty days performed at his shrine

is

considered at the present day the most meritorious

act of the followers of the Prophet in the

Happy

Valley.

few minutes' walk from the mosque brings us

to the Bagh-i-Dilawur

Khan, an old Pathan garden,

once a pretty place, but now utterly neglected, although at one time it was decorated with balconied
summer-houses, overhanging the waters of the

on the edge of which it is

formed a charming retreat.

situated,

lake,

and must have

Below the Zaina Kadal, or fourth bridge on the

same side of the river, stands a noble ruin, the
Badshah, the tomb of Zinulabudin, the best ruler
the

Mohammedans

ever gave the country, and

reigned from 1423 to 1487.

The tomb

is

who

of brick,

octagonal in shape, and ornamented with Saracenic

arches surmounted by a single dome, surrounded by
four smaller ones.

of

It is

a burying-ground,

contained within the walls

which possesses

graves of distinguished personages

in

numerous
connection

The

Jumma

Musjid.

Rather

with the history of the country.

half a

mile from

this

than

less

tomb stands the

25

Jumma

Musjid or 'great mosque,' a large square building

of a Saracenic character, with an open square or

pateo in the centre, and a wooden steeple at each

by the Emperor Shah Jehan,

foundations are of stone, but the wooden roof
Built

angle.

the surrounding cloister, or interior,

two rows of

pillars,

392

in

is

It is

cathedral-like
its

exterior

history, for

is

of

supported by

number, each being

formed from a single deodar tree about

in height.

its

a fine building,

thirty feet

interior

its

most

and imposing, and the ground about

interesting to the student of Kashmir

numerous horizontal massive tombstones

betoken the

last resting-place of

bers of the powerful

Chakk

many

of the

family, the

mem-

sometime

rulers over their native country.

The Mint

is

not far away, but

trouble of visiting.

and

is

It is called

is

not worth the

the Zerab Khana,

The

a small, mean, dirty-looking building.

arrangements

and simple
for one coin,

for coining are primitive

enough, a piece of the metal, sufficient

being heated, beaten out on an anvil, and while hot

stamped by hand with a

Kashmir

die.

In

coins are made, and, as one

are rude enough in appearance.

this

may

way

the

imagine,

Both the

silver

The Happy

126

Valley.

and copper money are considerably alloyed. Of

silver coinage they have three sorts of rupees in
one, like the Indian variety, worth six-

circulation

teen annas
the set
coins

one worth ten

while the smallest of

The copper

valued only at eight annas.

is

the larger equal in value to the

are pice

Indian, the smaller equal to about two-thirds, both

being clumsy, uneven lumps of

varieties

All this,

machinery

believe,
is

is

soon to undergo

metal.

alteration, as

ordered to turn out pieces of

money

equal to that of a more civilized character.

There remains

New

to

be noticed another mosque

Musjid, or Patar Musjid, as

which

is

situated on the

river to that

left,

Hamadan, the

visiting,

built of stone,

court-yard that surrounds

192

feet

in

it

length,

of the

It is a- fine struc-

having a handsome

steps leading from the river to

about

and nearly

first edifice

kind that engaged our attention.

ture,

often termed

the other bank of the

which we have been

opposite the Shah

it is

the

flight

of

the door of the

and

its

interior,

of

with a proportionate

some massive archways, the roof

of the compartments between them being handbreadth, contains

somely ribbed and vaulted.

Erected

by Nur Jehan

Nurmahal, or

'

Begum, the beautiful

Light of the Harem,' it must have

Religion.

27

been a perfect specimen of its kind, resembling

somewhat in general aspect and finish the mosques

At

at Agra.

and out of

appears somewhat dingy

having been

repair, not

for

many

years

purpose of public worship, which

for the

utilized

it

present

would have otherwise insured

its

protection

and

preservation.
It

cannot

to

fail

be noticed that most of the

buildings devoted to religious observances in the

city are those for the use of the followers of the

Although

Prophet.

changes of

religion,

Kashmir
it

has

w.as for

known many

many

years under

Mohammedans, and may, although at

present under Hindu rule, be styled a Mohammedan
With the bigotry that characterizes the
country.
the sway of

subjects

to

they speedily converted their

Islam

followers of

their

own

faith,

and while

edifices for the practice of their

fierce

zeal

destroy

all

the reason

in

many

own

religion, their

of their line caused

those belonging to any other.

at the present

why

erecting

them
This

to
is

day we see hardly

any vestiges of Hindu temples or other specimens

At one time the
of native Hindu architecture.

Hindu temples
ingly

numerous

tions of

many

in
;

the city must have been exceed-

for,

as before remarked, the founda-

of the houses on either side of the

128

The Happy

river are very

commonly formed

that have been

Valley.

of large blocks

drawn from them.

capital turned

upside down, a broken shaft or pedestal,

may

fre-

quently be observed doing duty for ordinary building

stone,

all

that remains of the once massive edifices

of which they formed a part, and which could never

have

ground unless they had been

displaced by the hand of man.
to the

fallen

forcibly

Thus very
original

faith

remains

little

of

the

evidence of

as

inhabitants

of

the

the

Valley,

which, early colonized by the Aryans, must have

been the scene of many of the mysteries of the

'naga' or 'snake worship,' one of the earliest forms of
idolatry practised at

first

by

that race after their

descent from the plains of Asia, and which appears

to

have taken root

Kashmir

in

for

we

find

it

followed in that country long after the onward

still

wave

from the same stock had overrun parts of India, and

there established the Brahmanical religion, the basis

of modern Hinduism, as followed by their descen-

dants at the present day.

The

isolated condition

may have had some share in the profor we find no very reliable
this result

of Kashmir

duction of

account of any other purer form earlier than the.

Buddhism by Asoka, about two cenand a half before the Christian era. Such is

introduction of
turies

Buddhism.
the opinion
it

although

of
is

many

129

authorities

claimed by others

on the

that,

subject,

according to

the Ayin-i-Akbari, the work of Abul-Fazel, this

prince abolished the Brahmanical

rites,

and

tuted those of Jaina, an assertion which,

Brahmanism

implies that

long before

correct,

flourished in the country

supposed introduction

its

if

substi-

and

also that

some suppose to
Asoka, must be added

the creed of the Jainas, which

have been the early

to the

faith of

of the changes in the religion of the

list

Kashmiris.
This, however, seems to be a disputed point

from the original text of the Rajatarangini

it

for

ap-

Asoka by no means attempted the former

of these heinous acts and that, on the contrary, he
pears that

was a pious worshipper of Siva, to whose temple he

His introduction of Buddhism
constantly repaired.
into the Valley

question

for

would

also appear to be called in

find

mentioned,

it

in

a work on the

Jain religion, that from the evidence afforded from

various sources
version to
reign.

we

can only infer that Asoka's con-

Buddhism occurred

And

further, that

late

in

his life

or

he either did not seek to

spread or had not the chance or opportunity of

propagating his new

of his dominions

faith in the outlying sections

and that

in this

Valley of Kashmir

The Happy

130
at least

Buddhism came

after

Valley.

him as a consequence

of his southern surrender, rather than as a deliberate

promulgation of a well-matured belief on his part.*

Be

this as

it

may,

we

possess proof, however, that

form of religion was dominant

this

in

Kashmir

during the reign of his grandson and successor,

Jaloka

for both the

temple on the Takt-i-Suliman,

and other ruined buildings at Pandritan and elsewhere, are standing evidences of the fact, which is
also confirmed in the annals of the country.
its

duration,

it is

As

to

probable that this form of worship

some eighty years before Christ,

when the Brahmanical or Hindu religion was, as is
prevailed until

generally accepted, introduced by Abhimanyu, and

became the
after, until

The

faith of the

country for several centuries

supplanted by that of

introduction of

Mohammedanism.

Mohammedanism

supposed to have occurred about

during the

Hamadan

reign

of

A.D.

is

1356, when,

Shahabudin, the Syud Ali

arrived in the country from Persia, at-

tended by a great following of fugitive

This

who

fact

is,

disciples.

however, disputed by the Kashmiris,

allege that their conversion to Islam occurred

some years before

exertions
*

generally

Jainism;

of
or,

this date,

fakir

and was owing

to the

named Bulbul Shah, who,

The Early Faith of Asoka. By E. Thomas,

F.R.S.

Mohammedanism.
coming from Tibet, was the

this

No

in the Valley.

appeared

first

Mohammedan

that

direct proof exists of

but that there was such a personage admits of

no doubt

for his

bank of the

tomb

river, just

introduction of this

is

yet standing on the right

below the

new

fifth

religion

its

The

was followed by

the consequences that usually befell

which

bridge.

all

countries into

followers intruded themselves.

Forcible

conversion or death was the alternative presented to

a terrible

means of avoiding such

choice was the abandonment of their

homes

seek in other countries that toleration

the inhabitants, whose only

to

denied to them

in their

own.

Many

undoubtedly

did so, and probably sought refuge in India, meeting,

however,

should imagine, with but

little

better

treatment; that country being about this time suffering under the invasions of the Moguls, themselves

and bigoted Mohammedans. Others probably

wandered off to adjacent parts, and it is to these

stern

bands of fugitives that

it

has been attempted to

trace the origin of the Zingarri or gipsy tribe,

being stated

in the

it

Life of Tamerlane that a race of

strange people, holding opinions and with manners

and customs similar to those which obtain among

the

modern

gipsies, existed at

some few years

Samarkund

in

1442,

after the time of the great persecuK 2

The Happy

132

Those Hindus

tions in Kashmir.

accepted their

fate,

Valley.

and the

that followed leading

that did remain

fierce zeal of the rulers

them

to destroy all vestiges

attesting the existence of another creed, the country

soon became thoroughly Mohammedan, both

ligion

So

and outward appearance.

until its

in re-

remained

it

conquest by Runjit Singh, when Hinduism,

or rather Sikhism,

became favoured, and temples

and other buildings devoted

to the old religion again

reared themselves in the Valley

but of the ancient

examples of architecture relating to that once nacreed nothing

tional

is

left

but ruins, or remains

applied to the meanest purposes.

To
river

continue,

however, our progress

and through the

city.

down

the

Immediately below the

Alii Kadal, or fifth bridge, stands an old stone building,

with an inscription, supposed to be Buddhist, in

Nagri character and some few yards below

This is an
again is an evidence of another faith.
the

old

wooden mosque,

Valley, called the

said to be the oldest in the

Biilbul

Lankar, containing the

grave of that fakir who, as before stated,

is

the inhabitants to have been the

and prime

agent

in their

The Naya
a

little

first

conversion to the faith of

held by

Mohammed.

Kadal, or sixth bridge, comes next, and

further

down

is

the Suffa Kadal, the seventh

The Noor Bagh.

and

last

bank,

of the city bridges, below which, on the right

a green open

is

'

flat,

called the Eedgah,'

reminds one of home, so

does

it

133

appear.

an English

like

stands at one extremity, shaded by

the

left

bank of the stream,

character, the

former days

some of the

and nearly opposite, on

a spot of an ill-omened

is

Noor Bagh, or
it

common

mosque, the Ali Musjid,

fine old

noblest trees in the Valley

which

In

place of execution.

was rare not

to see the gallows at

graced by some malefactor, but capital

punishment is now seldom carried out the Sikh

this place

religion discouraging the taking of

human

life

and

the present Maharajah, a devout follower of this

belief,

acting so strictly up to

years

the

office

hangman's

perfect sinecure,

his

its

services

tenets that for

has been

many

literally

having never been

required.

This brings us to the termination of our progress

through the
buildings.

city,

and our inspection of

We will

now

and before proceeding

its

principal

therefore retrace our steps,

to

examine the objects of

pay a short visit to the

principal bazaars of the capital, and take a glance
at the arts and manufactures for which it is famous,
interest in its environs,

and the commerce of Kashmir with other

countries.

CHAPTER
The Bazaars

of Srinagar

VI.

Natural Products of the Valley

ence of Famines

Shortcomings of the Government

of Food in Kashmir Calculation as to Value of Land

Occur-

Cheapness

in Kashmir
and Vegetables of Kashmir Wine in the Valley
Growth of Hops Trees and Flowering Plants in Kashmir Cattle

The

in

Fruits

the Valley

Sacredness of the

Cow

The Arts and Manufactures

Valley

Shawls

Antiquity

of

the

Shawl

Diet of Visitors in the

of Kashmir
Varieties

Pushmeena Manufacture
The Weavers
The Washing

Kashmir Goat

Weaving

Jewellery of Kashmir
Articles

of the
of the

Work

Papier-mach

of

Trade and Commerce of Kashmir

The Kashmir
Shawls The
Shawls The
Shawls
The

Prices of Various

The Dal Lake

Aquatic Plants The Lotus The Singhara Plant Floating Gardens

Hazratbal A Moslem
Objects of Interest on the Lake
Relic

Fairs or Festivals

'HERE

The Feast

of Roses.

are several bazaars or market-places

in different parts of

the city of Srinagar,

but with one exception they are hardly

worth the trouble of a

capital

which, situated

contenting

nearly

all

the

to the

themselves with

on the right bank of the

and about the centre of the

of

visit, visitors

city,

that
river,

contains the shops

best workers

articles peculiar to the country, the

in

the different

shawl merchants

Food
excepted,

who

stream.

135

commo-

are to be found located in

houses

dious

in Kashmir.

at

various

the

overlooking

parts

of the smaller bazaars are devoted

Many

to the sale of the necessaries of

good

if

curious

he pays a

in this respect, the stranger will, if

to one of them, get a

and

life,

visit

insight into the pro-

ductive capabilities of the Valley and the articles

of food utilized by

its

are a great variety

for nature

bountiful in Kashmir, both

though

at times, like

the crops

owing

fail,

famine stalks

Such

land.

present

in
is

time,

Of

inhabitants.

its

to

is

these there

in general

very

on land and water,

al-

near neighbour Hindustan,

drought or other causes, and

hideous nakedness throughout the

the

fears

case,

being

regret to

say,

at the

even entertained

that

unless speedy succour arrives almost the total de-

population of the Valley will ensue.*

as

we were

creatures

able to afford to our suffering fellow-

in

India,

during

scarcity, is not so easily

the

rendered

recent

store of grain exists in

it

did,

times

in this part of

of

the

no great
adjacent countries, and even

world, particularly at the present time

if

But such help

for

the difficulties of the transport of any

Alarming accounts of the state of the country are now being

since the above was written, and as these pages are passing
;

received

through the press.

The Happy

136
considerable

Valley.

are almost

quantity

insurmountable.

That the government of Kashmir are to blame for

their supineness and carelessness in not providing
against such an eventuality admits of no doubt

but then

it

calamity

is

people
for the

must be remembered that

taking

who

is

day

their

motto

inculcates the

is

if it

fate

and

among

East,
'

Sufficient

their very religion,

number of them, teaches and

dogma, that

all

and every calamity,

can be obviated with very

and the

dread

this

rarely think of the future.

'

or that of the greater

even

the

in

place

little

exertion,

of God, and that they must

will

bear themselves resignedly under the circumstances,

and hope

for

days are not

far

devoutly wish,
this

once

However,

fertile
I

will

distant

for the

am

we

sure

all

spot would be a great calamity.

not dwell upon

saw

this,
it,

to

but proceed

which con-

under the blessing of Providence,

may again shortly attain.

At the time of my visit
the natives was, as

is

not only a

hope

it

to the country food for

usually the case there, both

cheap and abundant, the prices of many

creating,

most

depopulation and ruin of

to describe the Valley as

dition,

That better

better days to come.

feeling

myself and companion, but

of
also

articles

astonishment
to

to

our usually

and

Vegetables

The

Indian servants.

apathetic

Fruit.

137

chief

article

consumption with the Kashmiris appears, as

parts of India, to be rice

some

but wheat, barley, maize,

and other seed crops are likewise

is,

in

of

Rice

cultivated.

however, the staple grain of Kashmir, the princi-

pal sustenance of

of revenue

its

and a great

population,

the wealth even of an estate or parcel

of land being calculated, not by

money

its

but by the number of measures of rice

Of

produce.

article

value,
it

can

vegetables and fruit there are any

quantity, retailed at prices that

would astonish the

vendors of Covent

Garden.

Cabbages, turnips,

cucumbers,

and various other

lettuces,

esculents,

are very abundant, and are extensively used.

it

is

But

the fruit of the Valley that most astonishes

strangers

the

for

alluvium, aided

temperature,
mulberries,

soil,

a very rich

and

fertile

by a moist atmosphere and genial

yields

wonderful

peaches, cherries,

crops

of

walnuts,

pomegranates, nuts,

and grapes. Most of these

grow in our own island, but must be highly cultivated to attain to any perfection
whereas in
apples, quinces, pears,

Kashmir nature alone seems

many

of the

flats

to be the gardener, for

of ground on which the trees and

vines flourish appear to be totally uncultivated and

uncared

for.

Of grapes

there are,

it

is said,

some

The Happy

138

eighteen varieties, and they

rate of several

three
fine,

The

halfpence.

may be bought

an anna, rather

than

less

which are very

peaches,

can usually be procured at the rate of a dozen

same money.

or so for the

made from
number

Wine was

at

one time

the grapes of the Valley, and a large

immense ancient jars have been dug up

various times. These are supposed to have been
of

the receptacles for the generous

its

at the

and with a better flavour than our hot-house

sorts,

at

for

pounds

Valley.

preservation, as

believe

is

fluid,

buried for

the case in

some

Eastern countries at the present day.

During the

Pathan regime wine was again made,

after a total

cessation of

its

manufacture for many years

the attempt was not successful, and

entirely given up.

So

it

has

but

now been

also has the production of

from the great quantity of apples yearly

grown all over the country, which undoubtedly
cider,

would produce a beverage equal to the very best

The
Devonshire, if under proper management.
climate

is

not

warm enough

to allow

the

sugar-

cane to thrive; but cotton of good quality can be

produced, the

fields for its cultivation

upon the tops of the

require the irrigation

other crops.

'

being usually

kareewahs,' as

it

does not

necessary for most of the

and Shrubs.

Trees

The

cultivation of

on a small

scale,

hops has

and

remunerative, as

all

139

lately

been attempted

should imagine would prove

that could be

taken by our breweries in

grown might be

One

India.

of

the

largest of these rival establishments to Burton-on-

Trent

is

at

and brews beer that leaves

Marri,

nothing to be desired.

Meeting the enterprising

manager of the company during our visit to Kashmir, I am able to assert on his authority that the
hops grown here are of good quality, and that
he was then seeking to obtain a grant of land for

the cultivation of the plant on a larger scale.

Of
are

trees

and shrubs

several

varieties

of

mountains.

many

its

or

wood

useful purposes.

is

The

little.

There

on the surrounding

firs

The deodar

very abundant, and

say but

will

Himalayan cedar

is

employed

in

largely

plane or chenar

and the poplar, willow, and many

dantly, although the first-named

others,
is

tree,

grow abun-

not indigenous,

but was introduced by the governor, Ali Mardan

Khan, who ruled

1642.

in

Kashmir under the Moguls

Once introduced

trees appear to

in

into the country, the plane

have thriven

to a wonderful degree

for they are the noblest trees in the Valley,

and are

everywhere to be seen, affording at the present day as

grateful a shade to the inhabitants of the villages and

The Happy

140

Valley,

farm-houses, as they yielded in days long past to the

now

royal denizens of the

guard and

ruined palaces they

still

Shrubs and flowering plants as

well as, ferns abound in certain localities, and several
shelter.

varieties

used

rhubarb,

wormwood,

profusion.

in medicine,

Saffron

shall visit its

is

&c.,

such as aloes, chiretta,

grow wild and

also largely cultivated

glowing beds

in their

Enough has now been

poor.

in luxuriant

home

but

at

we

Pam-

without wearying

said,

the reader, concerning the vegetation and cultivation

of Kashmir, to convince anyone that in

prosperity,
gifts

if

day of

abundance and variety of nature's

can be taken into account,

it

fully

appellation that has been given to

these pages,

its

of the smiling,

free

deserves the
so often in

it

fertile,

and Happy

Valley.

As

various sorts of grain, vegetables, and fruit

form the chief

cattle-farming
for

with

on a large

the exception

Mohammedans, who
goats,

scale

eat the

not entertained

is

the

of

the majority require

productions of the

The

the inhabitants,

articles of diet of

richer

flesh

little

of

classes

of

sheep and

but the natural

soil.

domestic animals found

in

semble those of adjacent countries.

the Valley re-

The

horses,

cows, and oxen, are small, but the sheep are of a

Arts and Manufactures.

and are pretty numerous,
as they may be purchased

fair size,

criterion,

The cow being

rupees each.

a very sacred animal

unknown

the

to

stay,

alike to the
visitors,

is

141

if

price

for

one

is

any

to four

held by the Sikhs as

never

and beef

killed,

is

Kashmiris and, during their

who must

perforce content

themselves with mutton, supplemented by fowls and

ducks, which are very abundant, costing only about

an anna a bird to purchase.

purchased, with eggs and

Milk, however, can be

fish

and as almost

all

the

farmers are supplied with honey, bees being kept

the walls of the farm-houses, any
delicacy

one

is

Take

obtainable.

able to fare plentifully

is

Kashmir

at

very

little

it

amount of

in

this

altogether, therefore,

if

not sumptuously in

expense, and

if

luxuries for

the table are required, the Parsee shopkeepers at

Srinagar will be most happy to supply them, and a

very long

Our

bill

for the

attention

same

now

is

into the bargain.

claimed by the arts and

manufactures of the country, good specimens of

which are to be seen and purchased

in the different

shops in the big bazaar already spoken of on the

right
ing,

bank of the
and working

great reputation

river.

/In weaving, embroider-

in metals, the

Kashmiris have a

but they are also very expert in

the manufacture of

wooden

articles,

such as toys

The Happy

142

and turnery

Valley.

ornamental carving

work

inlaid

wood, ivory, mother-of-pearl, papier-mache

lery, leather, paper, and attar of roses.

however

for the

in

jewelIt

is

manufacture of the famous Kashmir

shawls that they are best known, since these are

of

And

world -wide reputation.

although at the

almost
present time the decrees of fashion have
banished them from Europe, and the admirable
imitations produced in France,

and Paisley

in Scot-

land, exercise a great influence over the trade, yet

a goodly number are

still

country of their birth, the

East

woven annually
demand for them

in

the

in the

being maintained as necessary appendages

to rank

and

state.

It is

article of dress called

a well-known

a shawl

antiquity than any other

garment

facture in these early days

information until

is

we come

we

fact,

that the

perhaps of higher
;

but of

its

manu-

possess but

to the time of

little

Akbar,

about the year 1556, when the celebrated Kashmir

shawls were amongst the most important manufactures of the world,

and were thought worthy of

being minutely described

in the

Ayin-i-Akbari, or

the Institutes of the Emperor, so frequently mentioned in the preceding pages.

it

Thus Kashmir,

if

cannot claim the honour of being the country of

the birth of their manufacture,

may undoubtedly

Kashmir Shawls.

143

claim that of being the country where the industry

was

and encouraged, and

whence it spread over the greater part of India, and
to other more remote parts of the civilized world.
first

carefully

fostered

In the Ayin-i-Akbari mention

distinct

classes

remarkable

of shawls.

lightness

First

and

made

is

of four

come those of

softness,

usually

self-

made from wool undyed. The second

were woven of wool in the natural colours

coloured, and

variety

white, black, or grey,

and were probably of plaid

patterns, like the shepherd's plaid in Scotland.

third

were

The

from being
The fourth were

called gold-leaved, probably

embroidered with that material.

long pieces, used to enwrap the whole body, or to

fashion into divers articles of attire.

These productions of the Kashmirian loom, which

still remains of old and unimproved construction,
are yet

made

in the Valley, as in the

days of Akbar

but in addition to shawls, gloves and socks, red

silk cloth, cotton rugs,

cloth,

and a

and patto/ a coarse kind of

finer variety

are manufactured.

'

made from

These, however, need no further

description, the shawls proper being

larly

our present subject.

from what

camel's hair,

All

more

shawls are

termed pushmeena,' which

'

is

particu-

is

made

the short

undercoat or fleece of the Kashmir goat, a variety

The Happy

144

Valley.

of that animal remarkable for very long,

but whose appellation

silky hair;

misnomer, since
country whence

it

and

evidently a

is

not so generally found in the

is

it

fine,

derives

its

name

Western

as in

where immense herds are reared upon the

The under fleece, called 'pushm,' is a
mountains.
Tibet,

down which grows

cotton-like

beneath the usual coating of

close to the skin,

hair,

a provision of nature against the

and

is

evidently

effects of the in-

tense cold experienced in these inhospitable regions

for

does not exist on the same or any other

it

animal
but

warmer

in

little

Each goat possesses

one not yielding more

latitudes.

'pushm,' a single

than three ounces, which

is

of a white colour

animal be white, and dun-coloured

Leh, the white variety

rupees a

is

sold in

at four or

or two pounds, the coloured

'seer,'

somewhat cheaper; and

and spun

into thread,

which

Some, however,

is

is

it is

then cleaned

dyed of

different

retained undyed, for

the weaving of shawls of a natural shade.

the thread

make
by the

it

is

dyed,

stronger,

it

and

is

The

After

dipped into rice-water to

fit it

shuttle, the stiffness

by washing.

the

be black or

Kashmir

sort being

colours.

if it

if

Brought down from Ladak, via

any other shade.

five

to be

more

safely

moved

being afterwards removed

shawls are woven in

pairs,

in

S/tawl Weaving.

The weaving

very rudely-constructed looms.

occupied by three or four hands

good

size

and

takes

more than a year being

some considerable time

of

145

They

quality.

in

producing a pair

are

woven

in

many

.with great
pieces, being afterwards joined together

The

artistic skill.

pattern

is

worked

in

with wooden

needles, a separate needle being required for each

There are a great variety of patterns worked

on the various shawls, and on their borders but

colour.

the one with which

we

are most familiar, and which

appears to be the favourite,

or

Kashmir

pattern,

is

and the

the well-known

'

pine,'

'fool's-cap,' or cypress-

shaped ornament.

The

curves

made by

Jhelam before

it

the windings of the river

enters the city are said to have

afforded the idea of the first-named pattern, and the

second

is

an imitation of the aigrette of jewels>worn

on the turban by every great man in the East.

The manufacture of shawls being under govern-

ment

control,

a duty

is

imposed on every pair made

heavy penalties being

article is

on

not produced.

also inflicted

if

a genuine

The manufacture

is

carried

in the city, in single houses, or in factories,

the weavers, or

'

and

wabster bodies,' as they would be

termed at Paisley, are easily distinguishable from

the mass of the population by their stunted frame

The Happy

146

and sickly

Valley.

look, the usual characteristics of those

that follow this occupation in every other part of

the world.

But

it is

not only in Srinagar that this industry

pursued, for

many

is

of the farmers and their families

occupy their spare time

in

weaving

and

well

remember our astonishment, when taking refuge

from a storm at a farm-house, many miles out in the
country, to find ourselves, on opening a door which

presumedly led to the cow-house or stables, in a

room dirty and close enough to poison a dog, but
the atmosphere of which was evidently of indiffer-

ence to the family of our host,

who were

all,

from the

aged grandsire down to the youngest-born, busily

employed at a roughly-made loom in weaving a
pair of shawls, which were estimated to be of the

The worthy

value of 3,000 rupees each.

turist told us further that

pleted under three years,

amply repay him.

This

agricul-

they would not be combut that the price would

it

certainly would,

even

if

he got considerably less than he stated, the most

expert of weavers rarely earning more than a small
rupee a day, but which, so
living are concerned,

per diem in England.

loom and stamped,

it

far as the

is fully

expenses of

equal to ten shillings

After being taken from the

becomes necessary

to

wash

Shawl Washing.

147

the shawls to get rid of the stiffness of the rice

starch remaining in the thread, as well as generally
to

soften

them.

According

to

bearing on the subject of what

Vigne
is

(and

as

considered to

be of great importance in the manufacture, it is well

worth quoting*), the best water for this use is
found

between the lake and the

in the canal

Some

gates at the Drogjun.

ruins,

flood-

in large lime-

stone blocks, are lying on the washing-place, and in

one of these
in diameter,

is

a round hole about a foot and a half

and a

foot in depth.

In this the shawl

and water being poured over it, it is

stamped on by naked feet for about five minutes,
and then taken into the canal by a man standing
is

placed,

in the

water

one end

is

in his

gathered up

and the shawl swung round and beaten

force upon a

flat

\vith

hand,
great

stone, being dipped into the canal

between every three or four

about five minutes.

This occupies

strokes.

The shawls

are then dried in

the shade, as the hot sun spoils the colours, and in

ten days afterwards the coloured shawls undergo a
similar process, but occupying less time.

The

ones, after being submitted to the process,

first

day are spread

in the sun,

water sprinkled over them.

white

on the

and bleached by

They

then are again

* Travels in
Kashmir, pp. 129, voL
L 2

ii.

The Happy

148

Valley,

by the same process as the coloured shawls,

being stamped upon, and beaten a second time, and
then bleached again till they are dry, and then for a
treated

third time beaten,

stamped upon, and

sun-

finally

In the second time of stamping soap

dried.

sometimes used, but

is

not good generally, and

never employed for the coloured shawls, as the

is

is

alkali

might affect the hues. There is something in the

water of the canal which certainly communicates to
the shawls a softness which cannot be given to those

manufactured at any place

At

stan.

the

same time those made

elsewhere would be probably as

the greater closeness

upon

their being

the calico

made

in

Such, then,
facture for
in

is

India
that

is

texture,

it

is

much

made

in

were

soft,

made by a machine

more durable than

which

of the

For the same reason

hand.

Hindu-

in the plains of

in

Paris or
it

consequent

instead of the

well

known

softer,

that

and much

England.

a brief outline sketch of a manu-

which

this

country

is

renowned, and

recent times has passed through

vicissitudes.

not for

many

In the beginning even of this century

there were thousands of looms at work, replaced

now by

hundreds, and a great number of these

beautiful fabrics

were imported into Great Britain

and the continent of Europe, a branch of trade now of

Kashmir Metal-work.
very

little

But fashion may change, and

value.

the future and prosperity of

hoped

it

The

will.

149

Kashmir

art is not lost

but in abeyance only

it

it is

is

for

be

to

not dead,

and there are a number of

cunning hands now unemployed ready and willing

to turn out as perfect specimens as ever of those

Kashmir

shawls, without which a few years ago no

fashionable lady

deemed her wardrobe complete.

The Kashmiris
workers

are,

in

as before stated,

very

in-

manufacturing good
swords and other
and
weapons,
guns
But their jewellery specially demands attenarticles.
genious

such

tion,

metal,

as

the gold and silversmiths of Srinagar being

very clever at their trade, producing admirable work,

now

great quantities of which are

to

England.

at"

home

but

it is

they display more of what

native taste,

way

In gold they fashion the usual articles

of jewellery as seen
articles

finding their

all

in the silver

may be termed

their trays, goblets, jugs, tea-cups,

scent-holders, being chased or engraved in divers

more commonly the well-known shawl one,

while some are parcel gilt, giving them a peculiar
patterns,

and strikingly Oriental appearance. The gold they

use should be pure, and their silver should only
contain sufficient alloy to render

it

workable

but

of this, in the fulfilment of any order, you possess

The Happy

150

no guarantee, even

you had the materials worked

if

up under your own

Valley.

For they

eye.

are, like their

brethren in India, cute and cunning imposters, and,

imperceptibly to the onlookers, are

in

the habit of

concealing in the mouth particles of baser metals,

down

the

using, for incorporation

into

which

they pass

blow -pipe they are

that which is subse-

quently sold to you as being of virgin purity.

All

the articles manufactured in silver are likewise pro-

duced of similar patterns in pure copper, which after

arrival home can be electro-plated
and so perfectly
;

do such take the gilding

their weight,

from

is

it

that,

with the exception of

impossible to distinguish them

articles of richer metal.

Another

interesting art

their manufacture of

is

papier-mache, or some similar composition.

painting on articles of this material

is

and

elegant.

oil

the

flowers

This

is

not done with

The

both curious
colours, but

and other ornaments are raised or

modelled on the surface by means of a composition

paste,

then

painted and oiled

rubbed with the hand

until

ance of being varnished.

chairs,

and

they have the appearIn this material they

commonly make such matters

cigar-cases, &c.

several times,

as

boxes, waiters,

but larger things, such as tables,

bedsteads, are also manufactured, and are

Buying

in Kashmir.

used by the princes, the

nobility,

and the wealthy

ones of the land.

Such are the

chief manufactures for which the

Kashmiris are famous, and very few

the Valley

visit

without purchasing and bringing away some speci-

mens.
exists,

Regarding the price of each no fixed tariff

except perhaps in the case of gold and silver

work, when the ordinary rate for working

annas for every British rupee weight,

pattern,

and double that amount

in addition to the value of the

purchasing the various other

cess has to be

gone over

if

more

if

two

is

a simple
elaborate,

metal employed.

In

same

pro-

articles,

as' in

the

other parts of the

where the buying of anything resolves itself

a species of duel between purchaser and vendor,

East,
into

four times as much, or even more, being asked than

is

ultimately taken,

if

argument holds out long enough

and

to

In buying shawls or other articles

a happy result.
of a similar

and power of
conduce to such

one's patience

sort,

examine them

all

over carefully,

at different times of the day, for as a rule

no

shawl-vendor can be induced to display his stores

until the

approach of evening, being well aware of

the superior brilliancy imparted to their tints by the

slanting rays of the setting sun.

As

to

the

commerce of

Kashmir with other

The Happy

152
little

countries,

amount of
Punjab

is

Valley.

That there

can be said.

traffic

certain,

on between

carried

and the

it

Kashmir exchanging

some

is

its

native

productions for such things as English piece-goods,

cotton, tea, sugar, porcelain, copper,
stuffs,

and other

articles

to

foreign

tin,

and dye-

the country.

Great hopes were entertained a few years back of

largely increasing the amount of trade that has been
for

some time

and

India,

carried on

between Eastern Turkestan

through Kashmir, much to the advantage

of that country.

Government

to

But despite a mission sent by our

that part of Central Asia, and com-

mercial treaties with the

heard of any great

Maharajah,

results,

have not

although when

was

Punjab the traders there were very enthusiastic over the matter, and a company was
the

in

being formed to develop the

Having now
the

city,

we

interest to

which

is

traffic.

pretty well exhausted the sights of

will

take a glance at the objects of

be found

in

its

environs, chief

among

the Dal, or city lake, the chief scene of

the localities immortalized by

and around which are

Moore

to be found

in

Lalla Rookh,

some of the most

whole neighbourhood. This

situated on the north-eastern side of

attractive spots of the

lake,

the

which

city,

is

measures about

five

miles from north to

The Dal Lake.

south,

153

and two miles from west to

some

shallow in

and

everywhere of the very clearest description.

three of

its

sides

is

with water

in others,

deep

parts,

east,

On

has a background of a moun-

it

tainous amphitheatre rising to a great height above

the water

and on the ground

mountains

numerous

hid

half

nestle,

at the base of these

by

fruitful

orchards,
to

its

former celebrity, the remains of the several

re-

small

villages,

and,

nowned gardens and summer

testifying

palaces constructed

The lake may

by the different Delhi emperors.
be reached by the Sunt-i-Kul canal, which connects

it

with the Jhelam,

entering the river, as

before mentioned, just opposite to the Sher Garhi,

or fort and palace.

especially for those

or

encampment

Drogjun

But the best way

who

to proceed,

leave the English quarter

for the purpose, is to

or water-gate of the

walk to the

Dal, and have a

boat ready on the lake at that spot to meet you.

The

lake

here

is

narrow, being rather indeed a

branch than the Dal

itself,

be a stagnant river or

and appears

canal,

at first to

covered with rushes,

and singhara plants, through the green mass

of which several channels pass.
Taking the one
leading northward, we proceed on our way, and at

lotus,

first

cannot

fail

to

be struck with the immense

The Happy

154

Valley.

wealth of aquatic plants that surrounds us on every

side,

the most striking of

especially

all,

when

in

flower, being the lordly lotus.

The

(Nelumdium speciositni) is very common, both on this lake and on every other similar
lotus

expanse of water

in

Kashmir

are so numerous that in

some

in

fact the

leaves

places they form a

birds,

numerous aquatic
as ducks and moor-hens, run securely to and

fro.

When

veritable green carpet, over which

in

beautiful sight.

blossom,

such

places

Lilies of various colours

present

peep from

amidst the verdant covering, the leaves forming

which rest lightly and gracefully on the water
;

while the queen of

lotus,

with

its

all

this species, the magnificent

gigantic leaf and

tall

and quivering

stem, drooping under the weight of the exquisite

and noble tulip-shaped pink and white

flower, ap-

pears in the midst of this floating garden like a

reigning beauty, bowing with modest yet dignified

homage and admiration of her gailybedecked but less favoured rivals. Numerous other
grace, at the

plants are to be found on the lake, as well as several

made.

The

and

which matting

is

'singhara' or horned water-nut, too,

is

varieties of reeds

rushes, of

in places

very abundant, and

siderable

amount of revenue

is

a source of a con-

to the

government.

Budmarg.
It is

oo

considered State property, and the nuts are

Ground

gathered annually and solH to the people.

into flour,
article

and made

into bread,

it

forms a principal

of diet to many, particularly to the boatmen

and the dwellers on the margin of the

root of the lotus

name

When

of nadru,

also collected, and, under the

is

is

sold in long cylindrical pieces.

boiled and flavoured

and highly

The

lakes.

nutritious,

and

is

it

is

said to be

good

much esteemed by

the

inhabitants of the Valley.

The

boat 'makes but slow progress

down

the

narrow channel, affording plenty of time to admire

the luxuriant vegetation around but soon we have
;

something else to interest

the lake stands the

which almost

all

little

us, for

on the

village of

left

bank of

Budmarg, near

the shawls manufactured in the

Valley are washed in the manner described a few

pages back.
on,

Another small

and beyond

village

is

this is the picturesque

little

further

and elegant

stone bridge of three Saracenic arches, built by one

of the Moguls.
bridge,
'

Sutoo,'
pletely

the

usually

an

termed

artificial

across

bridge,

Commencing on
the

we come

Naiwidyar,'

causeway

the lake.
to

the right of this

'

is

extending

the

com-

About a mile beyond

a portion of

the

lake

almost covered by the celebrated floating gardens

The Happy

156

Valley.

of Kashmir, which, however, at the present day do

not

grow

flowers,

but the more humble melons,

cucumbers, and other vegetables.

The gardens are formed in the following manner:*

The roots of aquatic plants growing in shallow
water are divided about two feet under the water,
so that they completely lose

bottom of the
in respect to

the

soil,

tact,

lake,

connection with the

all

but retain their former situation

each other.

When

thus detached from

they are pressed into somewhat closer con-

and formed

into beds of about

two yards

in

breadth, and of an indefinite length.

The heads

of the sedges, reeds, and other plants

now

of the float are

and covered w ith a

r

intercepted in

its

mass of matted
in its place

cut off and laid upon

thin coat of

surface,

mud, which,

at first

descent, gradually sinks into the

roots.

The bed

floats,

but

is

kept

by a stake of willow driven through

at each end, which admits of

accommodation

Soon

its

its

to the rise or

rising

fall

and

it

falling in

of the water.

through the multitude of these

aquatic beds we enter upon the open water of the
lake,

after passing

and take

in at

a glance

its

beauty and

its

sur-

roundings, the most delightful and interesting places

to visit

on

it

being undoubtedly the Garden of

*

MOORCROFT,

vol.

ii.

p. 137.

Bliss,

Fairs in Kashmir,

157

the Isle of Chenars, the Nishat Bagh, and the

far-

famed Shalimar.
Before taking these in

however,

detail,

conclude this chapter by a short

visit to

us

let

Hazratbal,

a large village on the western side of the lake, and

a place of pilgrimage to

This place
in

famous

is

for its

a small box with a glass

less

devout Mohammedans.

all

mosque, which possesses,

lid,

a venerated

no

relic,

than a veritable or supposed veritable, hair of

the Prophet's beard, which constitutes this place one

of their most sacred shrines or 'zearats,' of which

they possess several in various parts of the Valley.

On

people, the

the

with

awe

the Sikhs, Hindus, and others

for

this

relic

Mohammedans

and veneration
Kashmiris of

all

with curiosity

all

is

regarding

ranks, kinds,

while

exhibited

to

every fete-day

it

and ages are there

unite,

after

this

act of

devotion has been duly paid, in holding a sort of

carnival or feast for the rest of the day, in fact a
perfect

which

fair,

is

very picturesque and well

worth seeing.

There are several great

yearly in Kashmir.

about

the

beginning

fairs

or festivals held

very large one takes place

of

August

on

the

lake,

while the one that has been poetically termed the

is also held on the same spot.
feast of roses
'

'

The Happy

158

This

is

in

May, when

Valley.

trees

and rose-bushes are

now

in full

bloom; but very

in

maintenance, rough play and vulgar eating

its

little

poetry

is

observed

and drinking taking the place of the romantic

scenes when,
" All
love

and

light,

Visions by day, and feasts by night

A happier smile illumes each brow,
!

With quicker spread each

And

all is

ecstasy

The Valley holds

its

for

heart uncloses,

now

Feast of Roses."

CHAPTER
The Garden

of Bliss

The

VII.

The Golden

Silver Island

Island

The

The Shalimar Garden Invitation to a Fete

Nishat Bagh
Launch of a Steamboat Memorable Day in the History of Kashmir
Excitement of the Inhabitants of the Valley Scene on the Lake

A Mishap

The
The Dinner
Return to our Quarters The Hard Parbat Fort The Great and
Small Parade Grounds The Gun Factory The Ram Bagh The

The Launch

Proceed

Illumination of the Shalimar

Shalimar Garden

to the

Its Effect

Nautch

Antiquity of the Game Prevalence of the Game

of Polo at Srinagar The Play Concluding
Ceremonies of the Game.

Game

of Polo

A Game

in Baltistan

'HE Nasseeb
is

Bagh, or 'Garden of Bliss/

situated a short distance only from the

and mosque honoured by the possession of the capillary treasure, and is a

village

and pleasant spot. Its name implies

and it has or used to possess another,

cool

as

much

which

signified, I

breezes.'

In the days of

time of Akbar,
it

understand, 'the garden of delicious

who

laid

it

its

prosperity, during the

out,

and of

his successors,

was evidently a garden whose chief feature was

a noble grove of chenars.

Many

of these, in very

The Happy

160
fine condition,

remain

few that

rear

still

the exception of
left

but

Its

and

this garden,

carried
to

be

formation

it

into effect

built

that

is

is

in the centre of the

the artificially-formed

or

Rupa Lank,

'

Silver

stated to have been the

is

Nur Begum,

idea of

all

bliss.

the Char Chenar,

Island.'

heads being, with

their lofty

northern portion of the lake,

island,

are wanting, the

many

some ruined masonry,

of this abode of

Opposite to

Valley.

the

wife of Jehangir,

who

by causing a mass of masonry

up and covered with

forming a

earth,

small garden of about an acre in extent, ornamented

at each corner

name, the
isle exists

by a

Isle of
in

single chenar tree,

whence

Chenars.

companion
the Sona Lank, or Golden

its

to this

'

situated in the middle of the

southern

Island,'

or other

portion of the lake, very similar in construction,

although somewhat larger, more verdant, and with

the ruins of a building in

The Nishat Bagh

is

said to have been built

on the ground

its

centre.

fine old pleasure -garden,

by the Emperor Jehangir,

at the foot of the

and

lies

that

bound the eastern margin

sists

of a large walled enclosure, reaching from the

mountains

of the lake.

It con-

water's edge to the rising slope of the hillside, and

is

arranged

in terraces to suit

the

fall

of the ground.

CO

UJ

Q
CT

<

c?
a:

x
CO

cc

The Shdlimar Bagh.

line of

tanks runs through

paths on either side

while fountains innumerable,

and cascades formed by

this

runs

entire length, with

its

ground arranged as flower-beds or grass

strips of

make

161

a pretty sight

inclined walls of masonry,

when

in full play

the water for

purpose being derived from a small stream that

down from

the mountains.

The Shalimar Bagh, from

is

gardens,'

the lake

'

Shah-il-imirat,

royal

perhaps the most interesting place on

for

it

was the best loved abode of the

Great Moguls when visiting the Valley, and under

its

roof

many a

Jehan and

his wife, the fair lady of the

are not

glories

its

Shah

pleasant day was spent by the

Taj

most glowingly described

pages of Lalla Rookh?

Built

Jehangir, the Shalimar itself

is

Agra:
in the

by the Emperor

a building placed at

the upper end of a large garden, walled

half a mile long,

at

in,

and

fully

and nearly a quarter of a mile

This garden is connected with the lake by

a wide canal, on whose sides are broad paths extendbroad.

ing for nearly a mile before entering the Shalimar

gardens proper, through which

rather joined, on a smaller scale

it

is

continued, or

beyond

in the

of a line of tanks or reservoirs leading

shape

down

in

cascades and level runs alternately, connected by a

watercourse of varying width.

This with the tanks

The Happy

62

is

Valley.

lined with polished limestone

fountains.

The

and crowded with

tanks and watercourse lead

down

the middle of the length of the garden, which

arranged

On

in four

low terraces of nearly equal

each side of the canal and tanks

is

size.

a broad

is

causeway or walk, overshadowed by chenar and

other trees, with a few smaller walks branching off
into the shrubberies

at the present

a wild and ragged undergrowth.

day nothing but

On

the uppermost

or fourth terrace stands the building, a magnificent

upon a
platform in the centre of a square reservoir, which
contains in its circumference one hundred and forty
pavilion of polished black marble,

fountains,

and

is

filled

raised

by the water of a stream

issuing from the mountains that tower behind the

garden.
is flat,

pillars

ing.

and

The

roof of the pavilion, which

is

open,

and supported on each side by a range of six

of the same material as the rest of the build-

On two

of

in the centre

its

sides there

is

an open corridor,

a passage, right and

left

of which

are two rooms, the private apartments of the royal

family being built against the boundary wall on either

side of the terrace on which the pavilion stands.

This was used not so much as a place of abode,

but as a banqueting-hall, a favourite place for entertainments of various kinds.

And

for this

purpose

Fete at the Shdlimar.

it

was

well suited

and when

163

at night the fountains

were playing, and the canal and its cascades, the

pavilions and garden, were lit up with various
coloured lamps, shedding their light upon the throng
of gaudily and jewel -bedecked guests, the effect

must have been

pomp and

beautiful indeed in those days of

show.

fortunate as to see
if

In a minor degree
it

shorn of some of

in its greatest perfection,

its

former elegance, as

bidden to a fete within

Maharajah

in

we were

its

walls,

so

even

we were

given by the

honour of the launching of a small

steam-vessel upon the lake.

This event, and the subsequent

festivities at

Shalimar, were very diverting to us, and, by

the

way

of concluding the description of the Dal lake, a

short sketch of that memorable day in the history

of Kashmir

may

very well here find a place.

memorable day indeed it was to the inhabitants of

the Valley, and long talked of both before and
steam power was a mystery to them,
and never before had the mountains surrounding

after

their

for

homes echoed back the sound of

the whistle,

the shrill scream of that invention which proves

wherever

it is

introduced the most civilizing agent,

and the most potent uprooter of old ideas and

At an early hour of
prejudices known to man.

The Happy

164

the day which was to

Valley.

mark the

step of the

first

onward march of progress in Kashmir, the city

was full of people, and the river crowded with

The

boats of every size and description.

entire

population of the Valley were gathered together,

all

thrilling

with excitement, and

same motive,

the

all

that of getting as

actuated by

good a place

as possible near the scene of action, so as to obtain

a sight of that mystery of mysteries, a boat moving

over the water without the usual, and to them well

known, agency of hands. Their first introduction

to this new and unknown motive-power being made
in

connection with a boat

one of the

institutions

of

the

country,

and with the working of which

all

were

familiar

undoubtedly explained the great

the proceedings by both young

interest taken

in

and old

question

for

if

the

first

essay had been

a piece of machinery applied to any other purpose half the curiosity manifested would have been
aroused.

But to move a boat was

intelligible

enough,

although the means employed were incomprehenand already hopes were aroused and visions
sible
;

were opened of the day when the weary work of

towing and paddling should be a thing of the past,

and

their floating

like things of

life,

homes should walk the

waters,

without any exertion on their part.

First Steamer in Kashmir.

If applied

to the vessel they

should

why

it

165

were about

not be applied to

to

see,

and sundry

all

Full of these hopes and aspirations, and bursting

with curiosity,

the people

all

.wended

their

way,

hours before the time fixed for the ceremony, to

that portion of the lake devoted

and soon the

ance,

and

capital

to

its

perform-

presented a deserted

forlorn appearance.

The hour

fixed for the important

ceremony was

and arriving on the scene about that

hour, we fqund ourselves in a mass of boats, all

four o'clock

wedged
line,

closely together

and ranged

in

a double

so as to keep a space of clear water in the

centre for the steamer to proceed on her triumphal

way.

On

the bank of the lake at one extremity

of this space a grand stand had been erected, which

was occupied by the Maharajah,

his court,

and the

majority of the strangers then visiting the Valley.

Soldiers stood

all

around, and the royal musicians

were discoursing the music of their native land,

which, lacking sweetness or even harmony, was
yet loud enough to satisfy the Oriental taste, and

any show
of the stand' and

add to the noise and uproar incidental

in the

East.

Directly in front

resting lightly on the water

of

all

this

excitement

for

to

was the innocent cause

it

was not so much a

The Happy

66

launch as a

trial-trip

Valley.

we were

to witness, the vessel

having been put together and committed to its

The boat itself
proper element some time before.

was one of the steam-launches usually carried by

the ships of the Royal Navy, and was a present
Maharajah from our gracious Queen, having
been sent to his country in pieces, which were
to the

finally

put together, under the direction of a Euro-

pean engineer who accompanied the

remained

charge to instruct the recipient and his

in

attendants as to the

Very soon

management

after our arrival

to land or

make our way

became

possible

crafts,

the

crisis

was

its

did not attempt

to the place of honour,

human

we knew

The Maharajah took

seat on the deck in a solemn

and

what was going

to happen.

he had been told that steam,

his

dignified manner,

but having withal an anxious appearance, as

quite certain

their

beings to the

carrying power, and

at hand.

and

ever,

and swayed about on

each laden with

utmost extent of

we

more excited than

shrieked, gesticulated,
frail

of the machinery.

the occupants of the

boats that surrounded us, for

if

and who

gift,

like

fire,

if

not

Probably
is

a good

servant but a bad master, and that boilers some-

times burst, and accidents will happen, despite every

reasonable precaution.

This

may have had some

A
was

as he

Failure.

167

that

day brought into personal

contact with the power of steam for the first time,
effect,

grave but with the courage worthy of

regal descent he took his seat, and gave the

for he looked
his

word
blew

The

to start.

whistle sounded, the musicians

their loudest, the

drummers smote

their

drums

arms ached, and the people shouted so

that the mountains echoed back the sound.
Yet
until their

with

exemplified, for the vessel

man

'

proposes

was

would not move.

We

'

the old adage of

all this

observed much running to and fro on the part of

the engineer and his assistants, and our ears were
assailed with loud

and discordant shrieks from the

steam whistle and escape-pipe

avail,

the vessel stirred not.

but not finding our patience

but

it

was

all

We waited some

of no
time,

any way rewarded,

pushed our way without the heaving mass, and
rowed straight across the lake to the Shalimar
in.

Gardens, where the second part of the entertain-

We

ment, the feasting, was to take place.

almost the

first

guests were

were

to start, but the remainder of the

not long in following our example

while the bulk of the Kashmiris, hovered about

the scene for

witnessing

were

some considerable time

something remarkable.

not, however, then

fulfilled

in

hopes of

Their
for

it

hopes

was not

The Happy

i68
the

until

following

Valley.

day that the defect

machinery which caused the

ceedings was

failure

in

the

the pro-

in

That having been done,

rectified.

the boat was brought through the canal from the

lake on to the river Jhelam,

when

its

acquisition

proved a source of great amusement to the Maharajah,

who every evening steamed up and down

watery highway of the

child with a

new

faithful subjects,

toy,

who

commanding point

city,

the

looking as pleased as a

much

to the delight of his

clustered like bees on every

that afforded a view of the royal

progress.

When we

arrived at the canal that led from the

lake to the entrance of the Shalimar

it

was quite

dark, but oh gaining the garden a blaze of light

burst on our view

myriads of lamps illuminated

the whole place, causing the jets from the countless

fountains to

By

fall

apparently in showers of flame.

the side of the walks on each side of the canal

that runs through the centre of the garden were

stationed

soldiers,

motionless and

yard apart, each holding

torch.

The

in his right

erect,

about a

hand a blazing

entire structure of the pavilion at

its

upper end, and the surrounding garden, was literally

bathed in light, the tanks and watercourses appearing like fiery lakes, and

when viewed from below

The Shdlimar Illuminated.

the nature of the ground

which

was

it

laid

and the terraced form

out added

This was, however, seen at

most

terrace,

scene,

its

and observe the

we

of

hall

lines of fire

thousand

its

beauty.

best from the upperstood.

From

descending

until

tier,

dark waters of the lake,

calm,

to

in

could take in the whole

regular gradation, tier after

this

much

upon which the pavilion

this elevated standpoint

169

lost in

in

the

and, standing in

could picture to

lights,

ourselves
"

That evening (trusting that his soul

Might be from haunting love released

By mirth, by music, and the

The imperial Selim held a

bowl)
feast

In his magnificent Shalimar."

It

was

truly a lovely spectacle,

and the numerous

servants and soldiers of the prince, in their gay and

fanciful costumes,

was

added

to

its

charm.

Imagination

carried back to the days of childhood.

The

one had read at that time appeared to be

and the elfin land of our dreams, so often

fairy-tales

realized,

pictured in

Dinner

our thoughts, stood revealed at

for the

European

large hall, but before

all

its

visitors

was

last.

laid out in the

welcome announcement we

stood patiently in another room, awaiting the

arrival of our royal host,

who soon

appeared, with a

large surrounding of officers of state

and

courtiers.

The Happy

70
his

Taking

seat,

commencement

was given

the signal

of the

infliction

nautch, without

inevitable

to

is

it

to differ in

for

the

in

an

Eastern

all

Europeans, although

The dance

formance.

This

fete

people appear to take huge delight

per-

Kashmir did not appear

in

any way from the Indian nautch,

The

familiar

girls,

who were

were clothed, or rather wrapped

up, in the

to all of us
pretty,

for the

would be complete.
we bore silently and resignedly

which no Eastern

infliction

Valley.

then present.

countless folds of muslin affected by the sisterhood,

and the posturing and waving of arms, and accompanying music, were identical with those of nautches

and we

relieved

when

the final

shuffle

had been made, when the

shrill

song, or

rather

scream,

elsewhere

sounded

in

of

all

felt

the

fair

our ears, and

we were

to our long-deferred dinner.

had been provided and

soon

all

bayaderes no longer

An

free to adjourn

excellent repast

set out in the large hall,

the visitors to the Valley were feasting

under the marble canopy, where

in

former days the

royal descendants of the proud line of

wont

and

to entertain

their

guests.

Timour were

The Maharajah

himself did not personally act the host, his religion

being a bar to any conviviality with the stranger

so the Resident took upon himself that

office,

and

Race Across

the Lake.

after the toast of

'

The

Queen,' proposed the health

him

of the prince, and thanked

the

for

ness

name

the

of

all

entertainment he had offered.

enjoyable

Shortly after

in

we took our

departure,

and the

still-

lake was

broken by the noise of

numerous paddles belonging to the boats that were
bearing back the revellers to their respective homes.

The
at

the

night was fine and bright, and the moon, then

with her soft light

full,

And
in

of

lit

up the whole landscape.

was a charming scene a lake of silver, set

a framing of dark and gloomy mountains the
it

still

calm,

waters

unmoved

or unruffled, and the

unbroken save by the dash of

whose dripping blades gave out showers of

silence of the night

oars,

glittering drops, that flashed

soft, clear light reflected

in

the

from the glorious orb on

There was a race across the lake among the

high.

numerous
celled

and sparkled

for,

boats,

and

at

anticipating

this

sport

some such

we

rather ex-

idea on the part

community, our boat's crew had

been increased from six to eight men, and being a

of the English

small, light craft, the exertions of the rowers, stimu-

lated

by promises of pecuniary reward, caused

fly

through the water.

we

speedily arrived about the

Distancing
first

all

it

to

competitors,

at our

temporary

dwelling, which we had quitted that afternoon for

The Happy

172

what had resulted

in

Valley.

an agreeable and amusing

entertainment.

The Harri

Parbat, an isolated

and three hundred

city

on

its

is

is

to

by Akbar

is

well worth visiting

be obtained from

occupied by the

Built

feet high, standing outside the

northern side,

splendid view

for a

also deserving inspection.

fort,

in 1590,

summit, which

its

it is

surrounded by a stone

wall of about three miles in length

itself,

between two

hill

and the

fort

erected of the same material, consists of two

wings placed nearly at right angles to each other,

and a separate square building with a bastion at
each end just below the western wing.
nothing very remarkable within

its

It

contains

walls except a

few old guns, and an ancient temple.

All the
buildings used as barracks for a small garrison are
in a half-ruined condition, the

very different to what

Moguls, when

it

it

was

whole place being

in the

days of the

served to overawe the capital of

their lately-acquired possession.

There yet remains

to

be noticed

in the environs

of the city the great and small parade-grounds, the

gun factory, and the Ram Bagh, which contains the

tomb of Gulab Singh, father of the present ruler.

The

small parade-ground

is

situated on the opposite

side of the river to the English quarter, and just

Polo.

above the
short walk

73

bridge, being easily reached in a

first

down an avenue

of poplar trees, after

summer

landing at a small ghat close to the

On

or pavilion.

this

and the game of

see that

'

as

game

palace

ground the reviews take place,

choghan,' or polo,

we saw

is

played by the

it

To

played.

men

of

a Balti regiment was exciting enough, and rather

different to the milder imitation familiar to us

India and at

home

home

of

one of the countries

Jamoo and Kashmir

included in the
the

for Baltistan,

It

polo.

classes of society

engaging

the chief objects of their

it

very early age play

on

territories,

the national game,

is

in

it

life.

in

as

if it

is

all

was one of

Their children

at a

old and strong

foot, until

enough

to take their part in the melte

on horseback.

Polo

a very ancient

was played

is

Turkey

game

in the twelfth century,

the reign of the Moguls

no

for

and

it

in

in

India during

while, although

we

possess

reliable accounts of its history as regards Baltistan

and Dardistan,

it is

certain that for very

many

years

the people of these countries have been passionately fond of

it.

There are

certain points of differ-

game and the one played by

Europeans, and there is no maximum or minimum

ence between their

number

of players, which varies according to the

size of the ground.

In the

game we

saw, which

Tlie

174

was got up

Happy

Valley.

for the especial benefit of the visitors,

the Maharajah himself being present, there were

twenty-five picked

men on

each

side.

was com-

It

menced by one with the ball in his hand starting off

at full gallop, and when in the middle of the ground
throwing

it

in the air,

up

and striking

as well as

it

he could towards the goal of his opponents. His

own side and his opponents followed close behind,

and soon commenced the struggle for the second

stroke, or the carrying the ball onward by successive
strokes towards the desired direction, in which they

Their ponies too are well trained,

are very expert.

following

it

in

every turn, and to the best of their

speed entering into the

of the

spirit

game with

apparently the same zest as their masters.

It

very exciting to watch one very well-mounted

is

man

driving the ball before him, and closely pursued by

friends

mle

and

Then, when

foes.

it

gets checked, a

ensues, and crowding, pushing, and hooking

of sticks, which

is

allowable,

is

the order of the

by some chance the ball gets clear, and

carried away by some expert hand, when another

day, until
is

race begins to

make

or save the game.

time the music has been playing wildly

All this
;

considered impossible to play well without

for
its

it

is

cheer-

ing influence, and the drums and the long horns

the

Homage of

compose the band

that

strike

vigour on the taking

off,

When

is

melde.

the ball

175

Vanquished.
in

with

especial

and on each rush or

caught, and

the

game

won, the sounds of victory are given with great

force,

and so the play continues,

until

one

side,

having won the greater number out of the appointed

total to be played, are hailed as victors, and the
concluding part of the proceedings takes place.

This

more

is

a ceremony which

decidedly great fun,

particularly to the victors, the

appreciating

and

is

it

so

vanquished not

The winning

fully.

side ride

up

collect in front of the higher dignitaries present,

the band playing what

is

understood to be a howl

of triumph, a sort of Asiatic version of the

'

Con-

quering Hero,' and then, dismounting, receive with

undisguised looks of glee the salaams or

This seems to

their late opponents.

immense

satisfaction,

which

is

homage of
afford them

increased

by
and if

largesse

from the princes and others present,

particularly elated, as they would appear to have been in
the

game we

witnessed, a grotesque dance follows,

accompanied by hideous grimaces and pointed gestures to

mark

their joy

while the vanquished party

slink off in silence to hide their diminished heads.

The
far

larger parade-ground

is

nearer the

city,

not

from the gun -factory, neither of which need

The Happy

176
description

Ram

while the

Bagh,

is

on the

tomb

Valley.

of

Gulab Singh,

in the

direct road to Shupiyan, about

a mile beyond the parade-ground, and can be easily

visited, if

from
capital

it

Ramoo

has not already been, on the march

to

Srinagar,

when making

by the old and imperial Pir Panjal

for

route.

that

CHAPTER

VIII.

Tour of the Valley Objects of Interest in the North-western Portion

of Kashmir Departure from Srinagar Our Course down the River
Sunnybawan Shadipore Hindu Fanatics The Sind River

The Sind Valley

Ganderbal

Wangat

Ruins at Wangat

gabal Lake

Sonamarg, or

The Manasbal Lake

The Ladakh Road Zozila Pass

The Haramuk Mountain The GunGolden Meadow The Noroo Canal

The Lakes

of

Kashmir

Canal leading to

Fleas in Kashmir Our

Mosquito Incident
Beautiful Scene on the Lake The Lake and its Surround-

Manasbal Lake
Anguish
Scene
ings

A Hindu Fakir digging his own Grave

at Sunset
Our Remarks His Delight Sumbal Continue our Way Hajan
The Woolar Lake Bandipoor The Gales on the Lake The
Lanka Hill of Shakuradin Course of the Jhelam Sopoor.

AVING

now

well-nigh exhausted the sights

of the capital
further afield

and environs, we proceed

and commence the tour of

the Valley, taking the north-western portion

first,

in

order that

we may make our way

to

Gulmarg, a justly favourite sanitarium for visitors

during the months of July and August, when residence in the capital or moving about the country is
not attended with the same comfort as during the
other periods of the year in Kashmir.

The

princi-

The Happy

178

Valley.

pal objects of interest in this portion of the country

are the Sind river, which

navigable as far as

is

Ganderbal, whence the Sind Valley can be visited

Woolar

the Manasbal and

marg, and the Lolab

lakes

The commencement

may be made by

two 'doongahs'

for

Gulmarg, Sona-

perhaps one of the prettiest

parts of the whole province.

of this tour

and engaging
self and servants, one can proceed
water,

comfortably enough, orders being given,

if

required,

heavy baggage and horses, under the charge

of a trusty guide, to be marched by land, with
for the

instructions

when

to

meet the party

the boats.

in

Dropping down the river from our encampment

our home for some time past at an early hour of the
morning,

and

we proceed on our way through

after traversing its

the

whole length emerge

city,

into the

open country, which presents a lovely appearance.

The rising sun lights up with its glowing rays the
bare and rugged sides of the surrounding mountains,

and throws a halo of

light

Fields of rich crops slope

river

on either

side,

on

down

their lofty peaks.

to the

with range beyond range of

mountains for background, those

in the distance

the loftiest covered with glistening

of

others

luxuriant

clothed

banks of the

with

vegetation, a

masses

marked

snow
of

the sides

trees

contrast

and

to

and
their

Shadipore,

standing

neighbours,

bare and

out

sharply defined in the clear morning

rugged,

air,

leisurely

we

the stream,

yet

with nothing

to hide their desolate but majestic beauty.

down

79

Floating-

pass the pretty grove

group of poplar and chenar

and in
trees growing close to the water's edge
about four hours from the time of leaving Srinagar
of Sunnybawan, with

its

approach closer to the mountains, which at first

had seemed so distant, enabling us to obtain a very

good view of the wild and extensive range whose

precipitous sides form the boundaries of the Sind

The

Valley.

entrance of this valley

cernible, giving us

its

picturesque

Ladakh

interesting as containing the

is

plainly dis-

idea of the scenery of a

fair

gorge thus formed, which apart from

beauty

is

road,

the great commercial highway between India, Kashmir,

and the towns of Central Asia.

little

further

on and we arrive abreast of the small village of

name which

Shadipore, a

'

signifies

the place of

and here denotes the junction of the

cold and icy waters of the Sind river with the
marriage,'

These

Jhelam.

points of junction of different rivers

have from time immemorial been held sacred by the

Hindus,
by.

who

And

generally erect a place of worship near

such

is

not wanting here

for the ruins of

an old temple stand on a solid mass of masonry

in

The Happy

180

Valley.

the bed of the Jhelam, immediately below the meet-

This ancient

ing of the waters.

fane, dedicated to

Mahadeo, although deserted and peaceful -looking

enough

to-day, has in

its

time witnessed some awful

scenes; for countless acts of self-immolation have

been

on

committed

this

devotees plunging from

spot

base

its

the

misguided

into

the

river,

thinking to gain by this act of suicide eternal bliss

on them by the supernatural agency of the sacred waters, beneath whose

waves they find a willing death.
in the future state, conferred

The Sind

as

joins the Jhelam

it

yards wide, and deep enough

in

is

the early part of

the season to allow a boat to proceed

all

Ganderbal, a journey of some hours from

If

the time of the year

is

nearly 100

the
its

way

to

mouth.

not favourable to

its

navigation, Ganderbal can be reached easily from

Srinagar,

whence

it

is

distant about fourteen miles,

the road winding along the northern side of the

city,

and through Naoshera, famous for its paper manufactories, passing on the way several old ruins, and
at

one place large masses of shingle on the

hillside,

testifying to the truth of the ancient lake theory of

the country.

Ganderbal

is

a small village sheltered

beneath a spur of the mountains, where

to

make a

halt

to

complete

it

is

usual

preparations for a

DQ

o
cc.

O
CO

a
z

CO
Ld

f-

The Sind

181

Valley.

journey through the whole or a part of the Sind

This long and very narrow

Valley.

up

snowy range of mounseparates Kashmir from Ladakh, takes

to the centre of the great

tains that
its

valley, leading

name from

the Sind river, which rises in the

mountains some twenty miles or so from the head

of the valley, into which

and

defile to the eastward,

icy-cold stream.

The

is

in fact

very beautiful,

most beautiful of

all

enters through a deep

it

is

a swiftly-rushing and

scenery throughout the valley

by many it is held to be the

the minor valleys that debouch

upon the main valley of Kashmir, while its climate,

cool and pleasant, renders it an enjoyable place to

wander about

in

during the unpleasant months, the

sojourn of the sportsman being enhanced by the

certainty of finding something in the

game
I

to

repay his trouble.

It

is

way

said,

although

myself did not test this personally, that

the finest sport

is

to be

met with

of big

some

of

in this direction,

and on the higher ranges of the mountains that

surround

it.

The

widest part of the valley

commencement, and here

scenery

is

perhaps at

lofty mountains,

its

for

best.

miles

several

On

is

at

its

the

either side are

many with summits

snow, the lower portion of those on the

tipped with
left

the river covered with dense forests of

fir,

bank

of

spruce,

182

T/ie

Happy

and deodar, extending

Valley.

for several

thousand feet up

edge a brighter belt

of green is formed by trees that grow under more
sheltered and favourable circumstances.
On the
their sides, while along the lower

other bank, the north side of the valley, the aspect

varies, for the southern outlook is not favourable to

vegetation, and the sides of the mountains are but

grassy slopes, and higher up are rocks, precipitous

cliffs,

and

ravines.

Many

smaller valleys open into

the main valley, both on this and the opposite side,

while at the very base of the

on either bank of

hills

the river a natural plantation

is

formed of walnut,

peach, mulberry, and other fruit trees.

Dotted along by the river are small villages or

isolated cottages,

ground under

surrounded by small patches of

cultivation,

and each with

of fine and profusely-laden fruit trees.

right

bank passes the Ladakh

twenty long marches,

many

in

rather

fatiguing,

miles from

one of which

The journey

although taken by

of the visitors as a part of their tour in the

Happy
as

is

Along the

some 240

the Zozila pass has to be crossed.

altogether

orchard

road, Leh, the capital

of that province, being distant

Ganderbal

its

Valley.

We

did not perform the

feat,

much

should have liked to have visited Leh, and

seen the Ladakhis in their

own home,

so different

183

Wangat.
from the country

we have been

visiting.

Then we

should have found ourselves completely in Tibet

for this

ancient

annexed

to

kingdom was one of the many

form the territory of the Maharajah of

Jamoo and Kashmir, having been before that event
tributary to that far-famed but rarely seen personage,

the

Grand Lama of

Tibet, at Llasa.

one does not proceed the whole way to Leh,

Sonamarg, at the head of the valley, is usually the
If

termination of the
or ten days

may be

trip,

and a very enjoyable week

passed in marching to this spot

when

ground is to
be found for the nightly encampment, and paying
a short visit to the ruins above Wangat, in a minor

by easy

stages, halting

suitable

opening into the larger one, and distant

This offshoot of
about ten miles from Ganderbal.
valley

the Sind Valley

is

a few miles long only, and very

narrow, confined and

rugged mountains.

hemmed
At

its

small village of Wangat, and

is

in

by very high and

upper extremity

some two

is

the

miles beyond

Rajdainbul, the ruin of a very fine stone temple,

enclosed by a wall, and of great antiquity, resembling

that of

Martand

in architecture.

be found described

in the record of

other portion of the country.)

further

is

(The
our

latter will
visit to

the

About 150 yards

another similar structure, and close by

is

The Happy

184
a holy spring
visit

it

much frequented by

who

pilgrims,

on their road to the sacred lake of Gungabal,

upon the top of the Haramuk mountain,

situated

whose

Valley.

peak,

lofty

17,000 feet

nearly

overlooks and overshadows the valley.

in

height,

The

ascent

and the piece of water

to the lake

is

which

is

one of the mountain sources of the

itself,

stiff pull,

something over a mile long and less than

a quarter wide, lying under the wildest and most
Jhelam,

lofty

is

eminence of the mountain.

Returning, after visiting the ruins, from

to Ganderbal,

it is

Wangat

best to proceed leisurely through

the valley to Sonamarg, a distance of

some

forty

miles, the road passing by the side of the river, and

near to three or four small villages, where, however,

supplies of any sort are difficult to procure.

Beyond

a place called Gagangir, about ten miles from Sona-

marg, the valley becomes narrower, a perfect gorge

in fact,

on

through which the waters dash and tumble

their

following
lie

troubled course
is

between

which hems
left,

carried
its
it

right
in.

among

and the path we are

the large boulders that

bank and the overhanging

Some

cliff

miles beyond the gorge

and more open ground reached

is

and the river

being crossed, a steep path of a few hundred feet

or so conducts to the mountain

down

of Sonamarg,

185

Sonamarg.

meadow/

the 'golden

sometimes
linger on

or 'pleasant plain' as

And

called.

it

is

a very pleasant spot to

a tract of beautiful undulating down,

it is

with numerous

dells,

surrounded by hillocks

or

These charming nooks are covered

thick grass, and numerous wild flowers

grassy mounds.

with long,

about

plentifully all

grow

and the slopes of the

hillocks are clothed with silver

and

other

trees,

beautifully

sycamore, birch,

fir,

while

intermingled,

rugged rocks here and there project through the

The

green covering of the grassy mounds.

is

climate

and many remain encamped on this

some considerable time for life on the

delicious,

spot for

'

'

marg

is

very enjoyable.

However, deferring further description

arrival at

until

Gulmarg, we proceed to retrace our

and taking boat

at Ganderbal, float

down

our

steps,

to Shadi-

Jhelam which we left to

visit the
Sind Valley and the ruined temples
above Wangat. Immediately below Shadipore the
Noroo canal leaves the left bank of the river, and

pore,

the point on the

dividing into two branches, conducts, the one towards

Pattan, the other to the

when

the water

between the
old

is

Woolar

lake,

and forms,

high enough, the shortest route

capital

and Baramula.

Two

or three

and ruined pleasure-gardens are passed on the

The Happy

86

bank

right

we

until

there

is

but there

Valley.

nothing of more interest

is

arrive at Sumbal, a small village, at which

a fine bridge across the

some considerable

width.

river,

here of
mile

quarter of a

further on a small canal opens on the right bank,

close to another small village, completely sheltered

and surrounded by
this

mulberry

channel for a mile,

famed and

in the

Valley

we emerge

Manasbal

beautiful

Numerous

trees.

we have come

water of the place

Of

fine

Following

into the

open

to visit, the far-

lake.

lakes are found about Kashmir, both

itself

or on the surrounding mountains.

Dal, or city lake, which

the former, the

we

have already visited, is perhaps the principal and

most interesting, on account of its historical associations

while the

Woolar

is

by

Manasbal, however, although the smallest,

doubtedly the most charming of

and

in the

all,

both

beauty of the scenery around

pellucid depths lying

The

far the largest.

embosomed amidst

is

un-

in itself
its

calm,

these lofty

mountains, which aid so materially the formation of

those scenes of loveliness that have gained for this

country

its

just

and enviable renown.

Of the mountain

lakes,

many

of which are curious

as being found at such a height, the

on the top of the

Punjal,

Konsa Nag,

and the Sheesha Nag,

Kashmirian

Fleas.

187

Ambernath

situated on the path to the

cave, are

the principal, and will be referred to further on.

The

Gangabal, another of some

has been

size,

already visited from the ruins above Wangat, and

there are several others, such as the
Sar,

Sona

Sar,

Hokar

Sar, Nila

Sar, small sheets of water

on

Mar

Sar,

Tar

Nag, and the Deo

different parts of the

rocky barrier that surrounds Kashmir, but which

call for

no further remark, as they are not of

enough

to attract a special visit to their shores.

The
lake

is

and

its

interest

canal leading from the river to the Manasbal

only about a mile long

attended

by the

but being shallow,

with aquatic plants and

surface covered

weeds, slow progress

made, and

is

unpleasant

one

usually

consequences which

follow the disturbance of the leaves that form the

verdant covering of so
of the country.

One

many
is

positively almost eaten

by mosquitoes, which, with

few other interesting

of the watery channels

fleas,

up
and a

sand-flies,

insects, are the

very curse of

the land, and the one crumpled rose-leaf in the

otherwise even enjoyment of a tour in the

Valley.

as

many

Of
in

fleas

the visitor sees, or rather

a week as he

rest of his natural life

your

tent,

Happy

is

feels,

ever likely to do for the

for enter a house, or pitch

no matter where, they seem

to rise

by

The Happy

88

Valley.

magic out of the ground, and

become in a measure used to the

until

you

infliction

really

a night's

sound sleep in Kashmir is a thing only of the past

so numerous are they, and so eager to feast upon
you, that the oft-quoted remark made by an author
;

and

traveller in these parts,

if

that

fleas

only too applicable

So many and

to the situation.

the

is

assailed

nightly

so ravenous were
his

couch,

that,

they had been only unanimous in their actions,

they were, said he,

him out of bed

in sufficient force to

have pulled

Mosquitoes are equally numerous, more particu-

on the margins of the lakes and rivers, and in

the narrow water-courses, where, sheltered by the
larly

leaves of the

uneventful
activity

lilies

lives,

and other
rousing,

when anything

within reach.
plified in

however,

fully

when we

into

extreme

shape of prey comes

in the

This was

our case

plants, they pass their

and

painfully

forced our

exem-

way through

the mass of vegetation that obstructed our passage

to the

East

Manasbal

we had

for there are

not

lake.

of course

few

Of

these plagues of the

some experience

visitors to that

in

India

country that have

endured at certain seasons of the year the

by the unsightly swelling, of

But our former knowledge of

stinging bite, followed

these insect pests.

A
their habits

Cloud of Mosquitoes.

and customs was now about

to

89

be largely

deeming probably that only a little

knowledge was dangerous, they apparently considered it their bounden duty to impart the fullest
increased

for

and experimental demonstration as

power of suction, and their capability of

entomological
to their

absorbing the

vital

descended on us
in

enveloped

fluid

in

of their victims.

clouds,

They

and we were soon

a perfect mist of mosquitoes,

all

hasten

ing to the unwonted feast that lay so temptingly

spread before them, decidedly more to their taste

than the juice of some tough leaf of the water-lily.
If

'

is

seeing

in this instance

have been

must hold good

without actual proof it would

believing,' that truism

;

for

difficult to

imagine the situation.

were, particularly on the barer and

portions of the face

and

We

more exposed

limbs, literally

covered

with these fierce and ravenous creatures, whose thin

and supple bodies actually quivered with

as,

swooping down with

blast,

skin,

already heralding victory, they fixed on the

and soon were rapt

epicurean
for

delight,

their clear, trumpet-like

feast,

in

the enjoyment of an

preferring death rather than removal;

they allowed themselves to be touched or handled

whilst thus
inclination

engaged without showing any desire or

for flight.
The agonies endured by our

The Happy

Valley,

lightly-clothed servants

and the semi-nude natives

that propelled the boat

must have been acute

to us, protected as

was

we

were, the sensation experienced

that of being subjected to a

hot needles.

They even

shower bath of red

penetrated our clothes,

which offered but feeble resistance to

lances

was the

and

their sharp

moment

to increase the torture of the

reflection of

for

what would follow

in the

form

of an irritated skin, caused by the poisonous bites,

while, in the case of

my

companion, thoughts as to

the effect on her personal appearance the following

day must likewise be added. Self-preservation is

a great law of nature, and not sharing the ideas of
the followers of Jaina, to
sacred,

we attempted

whom

even insect

is

to protect ourselves against

the ravages of our foes by lighting a

wood, the smoke of which

in

life

is

fire

of green

considered efficacious

arresting their approach, causing

them

to

fall

But unfortunately the

remedy was as bad as the disease and a short trial
of squatting amidst the volumes of acrid smoke
stupified into the flames.

produced by the experiment,

like

two hams under-

going the process of curing, was sufficient to prove

that we must endure the mosquito plague with
fortitude,
raising.

or be choked in the reek

of our

own

Fortunately the open water of the lake

The Manasbal Lake.

was not

far distant,

191

and encountering a

slight breeze

on clearing the canal, our enemies were wafted

Our delight at this,
slowly and reluctantly away.
probably owing to a natural

was
to

by the knowledge

largely increased

their

greed,

their

the weight of their

retribution

spirit of vindictiveness,

that,

owing

wings could hardly sustain

now

swollen bodies, and that

the form of a watery grave must

in

undoubtedly overtake many of their number.

On
bal,

emerging upon the open water of the Manaswe were, however, rewarded for the ordeal

we had

through which

passed, which

was quickly

forgotten in the ecstasy of delight created by the

aspect of the spot and

its

surroundings, which burst

upon our view immediately we entered upon its calm,

deep surface. The scene was one of such great and
exceeding loveliness that words are but poor means

conveying any real idea of the glories of this

apparently enchanted region, as it appeared that

for

evening.

was the hour of sunset

It

showed bright and

clear,

the sky

save where a few fleecy

clouds were drifting slowly towards the west, tinged

with the reddish orange-colour reflected by the rays

of the

now

rapidly disappearing orb of day, which,

although half-hidden by the lofty mountains of the

western range,

still

afforded in

its

expiring glory

The Happy

192

Valley.

throw the most exquisite

and shades upon and around the surrounding

sufficient dazzling light to

tints

The

scenery.

lake

upon which we were

an oval silvery sheet of crystal,

spread out before us

reflecting

on

its

untroubled surface a perfect picture

of the works of nature by which

On

our

left

floating lay

was an elevated

it

was

table-land,

encircled.

and crouch-

shadow was the small and pretty

of Manasbal while above and beyond, on

ing under
village

its

higher ground, stood another evidence of man's

presence in the ruins of the Badshah Bagh, an old

palace and garden built by the

Mogul Emperor

Jehangir, for the use of his wife, the fair

brated

'

Light of the Harem.'

low range of

hills,

On

and

cele-

the right was a

extending from the lofty moun-

on the north-east, with a conical peak, the

Aha-Thang, towering aloft to an altitude of nearly

tains

7,000

feet,

an object plainly discernible from

other parts of the Valley.

the calm

still

In front

many
we gazed from

waters of the lake upon a rugged

range of rocky heights, whose precipitous sides

were clothed with large forests of pine and other
trees,

while their peaks, bare and defiant,

lifted their

heads towards the azure sky, affording a marked

contrast to the lesser ridge below.

This, lined with

walnut, chestnut, sycamore, and various other species,

The Pir Panjdl at Sunset.

193

gave passage through a picturesque valley to a small

stream that, in the form of a foaming cataract, finally
dashed wildly over a steep limestone cliff into the
lake below, which lay otherwise in placid beauty,

surrounded and guarded by the rocky sentinels that

have kept watch and ward over its depths un-

changed and unchanging through countless ages.

On turning to catch a last view of the setting
sun,

with

we
its

beheld in the distance the great Pir Panjal,

spotless mantle of everlasting

appearing of a

brilliant rose-colour,

snow now

adding splendour

and solemnity to a scene of such unspeakable beauty,

that it was with a feeling of awe and reverence we
gazed upon
dise.
it

Alas,

glimpse of an almost earthly para-

this
all

too soon for us, gradually and slowly

underwent a transformation.

colours

deepened, then

Imperceptibly the

subsided.

Twilight ap-

proached, and a change from azure and pink to a

deep grey
in

tint rapidly

appeared, while, slowly rising

majestic dignity, shedding over

all

a soft and

gentle radiance, appeared the moon, like a disc of

silver,

hastening to take the place in the firmament

which her more

fiery rival

Slowly and reluctantly

had so

we bade

lately vacated.

farewell

to

this

lovely spectacle, one of the happiest memories of

our tour, and continued our course towards the

o

The Happy

194

Valley.

further end of the lake, which, elliptical in shape,

The

about three miles long by one mile wide.

water
in

clear

is

many

and

soft,

although, according to a

unfathomable,

a holy

man

it

of a deep green colour, and

upwards of

places

is

Hindu

legend,

being related that

in

feet

forty

it is

many

spent the best part of his

depth,

reckoned

years ago

life in

con-

structing a line of sufficient length to reach the

bottom, but not succeeding in his attempt threw

himself in despair into the depths, never to rise
again,

an

act

of

self-sacrifice

considered

by

his

countrymen,

who

meritorious

hold his

The
its

memory

lake

is

for

many

Brahma

for

a very holy man, has

fakir,

and laudable occupation of digging

his remains to a

more

would otherwise

obtain,

trouble,

solid rock,

his

Evidently of an ambitious nature, or

grave.

considering that his pious and sanctified

and

years resided, employing his leisure in the

interesting

own

to

even at the present day not without

margin a Hindu

its

continue

in the highest veneration.

attraction to the pious followers of

on

most

fitting

he

life entitle

mausoleum than they

has, with infinite care

constructed a large cave out of the

on the face of the mountain behind

present dwelling-place.

showed us over

The worthy

his

recluse himself

his future resting-place, imparting

Digging

own

his

the fact that he thought

complete

ciently
this

we

tunnel

fifty

feet

to

195

was now about

intended

its

suffi-

In

purpose.

opened with a
long from the entrance, and in
allow of two grown people to

heartily concurred

sufficient

size

for

it

Grave.

it

This passage led into

walk side by side upright.

a species of vaulted

for

chamber,

in

the

which was the space already excavated

the corpse of our smiling guide.

very proud and happy when

He

we admired

centre

of

to receive

appeared
his handi-

was undoubtedly, as
far as dryness and warmth were concerned, the best
place of interment in the whole of the country
work, and observed that

it

Regarding
no doubts

for

now completed
the time when
use,

he appeared to entertain

his future state

he further informed us

that,

having
he waited impatiently for
should be applied to its destined

his task,
it

and himself commence the

life

of bliss assured

through a long period of penance and austerity

Already a saint, his death in the
upon earth.

odour of sanctity would cause

held in veneration

by

his

his

memory

countrymen

for

to

be

long

years to come, and make the place of his interment

a holy sepulchre, to which they would 'repair in
large

numbers and worship

The

excellent old

man

at his shrine.

looked, however, as

o 2

if

he

The Happy

196

Valley.

had yet some years of life, before him

hale and hearty, and although wrapped

for

in

he was

perpetual

thoughts of future happiness, was not unmindful

or above

more

baksheesh

in return for the

and invoked

mortal,

He demanded

matters.

earthly

show

like

an ordinary

our liberality numerous

for

our heads as being cherishers and

blessings on

protectors of the poor, supplementing his prayers

by an

offering of

some very

in the cultivation of

Their

sale,

grapes and peaches,

fine

which he has long been famous.

with the addition of the gifts of the

pious and curious, afford him,

should imagine, a

very comfortable maintenance.

There are some very good spots on the margin

of the lake, at

its

purposes, -and

upper end, suitable

many

But apart from

its

special interest, so

linger

for

encamping

here for some days.

scenery there

we proceed

is

nothing of

with our tour on

the following day, gaining the river Jhelam at the

we had

point at which

canal, the scene of

left

it,

our misery.

petition,

but happily escaped,

perhaps

to

our

former

foes

sleeping off the effects of their

After

down

leaving

Sumbal,

we

and by the same

We

feared a re-

a fact attributable

engaged in
unwonted debauch.
being

continue

our

course

the Jhelam, meeting nothing remarkable to

The Woolar Lake.

our attention

attract

way between
the

Woolar

on the

the

we have

village

bank of the
This place

of Hajan.

arrive

about

half-

left

just

and

our intended destination, where,

lake,

left

we

until

197

is

stands the village

river,

interesting as having been

the probable site of Parihas-pur, a city founded by

Lalitaditya, about the year 714, of which, however,

Another three hours'

only a few ruins remain.

journey and

we

Woolar

enter upon the

largest in the country,

which

lake,

the

crossed by travellers

is

on their way to Srinagar by the Marri route, as

mentioned when speaking of that journey.
It is
truly a magnificent piece of water, about twelve
miles

long by eight broad, but

depth, as

twelve

and

only over a part of

feet,

and

surface

its

singhara,

in

some

here

is

it

it is

places

is

not of great

does

it

even shallower

covered with the

and other water-plants.

exceed

Its

lotus,

shores are

verdant, but comparatively bare of trees, and they

slope

gradually

down from

mountains which surrounds

the
it

lofty

range

of

on the north-east,

with numerous villages dotted about, the largest

of which is Bandipoor, the starting-point of the
route to Gilgit and Iskardo.

This

village, or

size, situated

rather town,

is

of considerable

on the north-eastern side of the

lake, a

T/ie

198
little

Happy

over a mile from

Valley.

margin, and to

its

Woolar
furious

to

by mountains, the
the influence of sudden and

gales, converting

into an

is

lakes surrounded

liable

is

will

weather

direct our boat, provided always that the

fine, for, like all

we

it

its

usually calm

angry and raging storm-tossed

which the usual boats of the country

surface

upon

sea,

find

it

difficult

to live.

Before reaching this village, in fact almost as

soon as

we

only island

enter upon the lake,

it

we come

contains, the Lanka, raised

to the

and shaped

by the Mohammedan king Zinalabudin, who,

affirmed, constructed

said

to

Whether

it

out of the ruins of a

it

city,

have existed where water only now

there

is

any truth

in this

legend

it

is

is.

would

be hard to say, but undoubtedly the substratum of

the island consists of such an enormous mass of

blocks of stone that

brought from a distance

considerable trouble and ingenuity must have been
observed

in the task,

struct that

if

and much time taken

to con-

which was comparatively easy enough

do when the materials lay ready to hand. The

surface of this artificial island, which is quadto

rangular in shape, occupies about four acres, the

ground being covered with

trees,

and

plentifully

bestrewn with fragments of sculptured stones and

The Lanka.
broken

pillars,

199

remains of buildings, walls, and ghats

that at one time adorned this curious

isle.

At

its

eastern extremity stands yet a considerable portion

of what was originally a

as

similar

being

in

Hindu

palace, interesting

to

architecture

the

ruins

at

Martand, which were certainly erected long before

the time of the monarch

He

has

is

Mohammedan

in

cemetery, inside

a stone slab with a Persian

stating that the

inscription,

Lanka was constructed by himself

about the year 1411 of our

a

originated this island.

however, an evidence of his religion

left,

the form of an old

which

who

The

era.

island

from

distance looks exceedingly picturesque, the

little

surrounding mountains forming an excellent background.

Chief

among

the eminences that encircle the lake

of Shukarudin, at the edge of the

stands the

hill

spur on

western

its

Towards

this,

where there

is

side,

some

distance away.

little

passing by the town of Bandipoor,

nothing to detain

us,

we make our

way, and sailing past Aloos, halt at

village
its

some

three miles

summit can be

this

off,

Kewnus, a

whence the ascent

If time allows,

easily effected.

should most certainly be done

to

for a magnificent

view of the whole of the lake and surrounding

country

is

the

reward

for

the rather steep and

The Happy

2OO

Valley.

'.

rough but short journey to the top of the

The

Babu Shukarudin

'zearat' or shrine of the

stands

on the -summit, some three hundred

above the water, and from

the

it

hill.

Woolar

is

feet

seen

beauty and grandeur.

Looking eastwards
the Lanka stands out boldly and clearly denned on
the calm surface of the lake
and carrying the
in all its

eye

still

further

Manasbal are

beyond

it

the glittering waters of

under the

plainly perceptible, lying

shadow of the Aha-Thang

while towards the
south the towns of Sopoor and Baramula are seen
;

and beyond again the high range of hills which

overlooks the downs of Gulmarg, that charming
spot towards which
the
river

interesting

Jhelam

we

hastening as fast as

are

The
on our way allow.
which pursues its course in

objects
too,

traversing the whole length of the Valley through

the Woolar,

is

to

be seen entering the lake at

eastern side, and, merging into

its

its

waters for some

considerable distance, can be again traced, where

after

its

passage

it

issues

stream, two hundred yards

the

town of

Sopoor,

again

in width,

winding to

as

fine

little

the

open
above

westward

flows past Baramula, and shortly after leaves the

Valley for the plains of India.

Sopoor

is

an ancient and dilapidated town, built

The Lolab.

201

upon both sides of the Jhelam where it leaves the

lake, and although a good place for fishing, contains
nothing remarkable to detain
of proceeding any further

us.

down

Therefore, instead
the river, which in
i

a few hours' row would bring us to the town of

Baramula,
for

we now

strike across country

Lalpoor, distant

largest

and

the Vale of

some

and make

sixteen miles, and the

principal village in that pretty part of

Kashmir

called the Lolab.

CHAPTER

IX.

to Lalpoor
The Lolab Kashmir Villages The Kangrt
Mulberry Trees Silk Cultivation in the Valley Silk-producing
Insects
Bears in Kashmir
Their Carnivorous Propensities

The Road

Game in the Valley Sport in Kashmir The Tiger

The Wild Dog The Barasing The Musk-deer The MarThe Khakur The Surrow The Ibex Their Habitats-

Varieties of

Cat
kor

Wild Fowl

Hawks

in the Valley

Monkeys

No Monkeys

Probable Reason of their Absence

Valley

HE

Birds of Prey

Singing Birds

Hares

The Alpine Hare.

road from Sopoor to Lalpoor

first

Eagles

or Hares found in the

is

for the

nine miles smooth and level, and

full

of picturesque beauty, but becomes rather

steep and rough

when

that distance has

been traversed, as after leaving Arwan, a

small

village at the foot of the

hills,

a range of

about 8,000 feet high has to be crossed in order to

reach our destination, distant about four miles from
its foot.

Arrived at Lalpoor,

we

find ourselves in

the heart of the Lolab, as pretty a part as any in the

whole of Kashmir, situated

in the north-eastern side

of the province, in that division of

It consists of

it

called

an undulating green and

Kamraj.

fertile

valley

Kashmir
some twelve miles

203

Villages.

of
long, with a varying width

from two or three hundred yards to nearly three

miles, completely encircled

most part with

trees.

by

covered for the

hills,

and other

forests of pine, deodar,

Its altitude

being some 600

feet, it

possesses

a cool and invigorating climate, and for general

fertility is

unsurpassed

in

the Valley.

gurgling

stream traverses its entire length, and numerous

in
villages and farm-houses are found dotted about
%

every

it

part,

being a favourite spot for farmers,

although, owing perhaps to the grinding system of

taxation which prevails, there

is

not so

much

land

under cultivation as there should be.

The

villages in this locality are

Kashmir

good examples of

villages in general, which, although untidy

in detail, are certainly picturesque, the cottages stand-

ing detached, and not crowded together as seen in

India,

and

all

with groves of

fruit trees,

round and shelter the dwellings.

usually two-storied, with walls of

which sur-

The houses are

wood or mud, and

a low sloping gabled roof of thatch or shingle, and

generally possess a balcony on the upper part, which,
sheltered

by the overhanging eaves, makes an extra

room, enabling the tenant to

utilize,

as

is

frequently

found to be the case, the lower portion of his domicile as

a stable for his

cattle.

One

peculiarity that

The Happy

204
cannot
is

be noticed

to

fail

Valley.

the total absence of chimneys

possess fire-places, the

through a hole

houses

in all

smoke

Kashmir,

for although a

few

allowed to escape

is

and not by the

in the wall or roof,

usual channel that obtains in

in

civilized countries.

all

Fires are, however, but rarely used by the Kashmiris except for cooking purposes

a plan that

may be termed an

country, which renders

household
is

fires for

the universal

and

basket,

classes carry,

institution

a protection against

with live

holding

of the

it

This

cold.

an earthern pot set

kangri,'

filled

have

for they

them independent even of

'
.

charcoal,

in

which

a
all

beneath their loose gar-

ments against any portion of their bodies that

A primitive arrangement truly,
requires warmth.
but one that apparently answers the purpose for
;

with

it

they brave the cold of winter attired in the

costume worn during the warmer months when out

of doors and when in the house a number of these
;

burners, round which they

warmth
totally

as a

wood

unknown

in

fire,

sit,

afford

them

as

much

their only fuel, coals being

the Valley.

e mulberry tree

is

very

common

in

the Lolab,

and generally all over the country and with such an

abundant supply of the first necessity in the culti;

vation of

silk,

and with such a favourable

climate,

it

Silk Cultivation.
is

industry
at

remarkable that

little

great branch

of

not prosecuted with greater vigour than

is

present.
in

produced

this

205

certain

quantity of silk

is

yearly

Kashmir, from worms preserved and

fed in this division of the Valley, and elsewhere, but

nothing like what could be done, considering the

first

means

for

hand-

production are so ready to

its

quantities of the natural food of the silkworm, in a

locality so favourably situated as to climate that the

foliage

is

in readiness for

when they

are

first

feeding the young

hatched from the eggs.

worms
I

can-

not with any certainty state what variety of the

silkworm

the season

when

cultivation,

state

found

is

in this country, as

visited

was

an establishment

and the worm had passed

but from the description

was the common

it

into

late in

for their
its

pupa

should imagine

kind, the caterpillar of the

it

Bombyx

mori, the silkworm moth, a native of India, but

plentiful

in

other parts of the world, notably in

There are numerous species

genus, and other genera of the

China and elsewhere.

belonging to this

family Bombycidce, to be found in India and adjacent

parts,

whose

chrysalides, enclosed in a cocoon of silk,

give to most of the species such a great economical

But of the silk-producing insects as

manufacture, only about five out of the

importance.

used

in

The Happy

206

Valley.

eighteen varieties existing in the country, generally

on certain parts of the Himalaya mountains, are of

any importance and of that number only two, the
;

common

silkworm, and the true Tusseh Antherosa

Tussur moth/ produce silk that can be

wound off the cocoon, and whose cultivation

Papkia, or
easily
is

'

attended with any great advantage or

It

times reared upon trees in the open

little

very
birth

but

found

desire to
it is

them

to raise

pose.

profit.

stated that in China the silkworm

is

some-

showing
wander from the place of its

usual in that as in

all

air,

other countries

in buildings constructed for the pur-

Such a building we
it

is

visited in

Kashmir, and

a large, long, wooden, barn -like erection,

carefully covered in so as to exclude moisture, with

its interior

tier

divided into compartments, or

of shelves, such as one sees

tier

upon

in the garrets of

English farm-houses for storing apples and other

fruits.

On

these shelves the eggs are hatched

by

the natural heat of the climate, and the silkworms

are fed with the leaves of the mulberry until they

and then spin in the

or on little contrivances

attain their full development,

corners of the shelves,

placed above them for that purpose.

or shelves are quite open, as
enclose them in any

way

it

for

is
it

These

trays

not necessary to
is

an interesting

Trees.

Mulberry

207

peculiarity of this valuable species of moth,

neither in
fresh
it

its

caterpillar state, as long as food

and abundant, nor

show

so

is

is

the winged state, does

in

that restless disposition or desire to

away which

that

common

so

to

many

wander
others.

After spinning the cocoons are collected, and those

few selected

for the production of the perfect insect,

necessary for the maintenance and increase of the

The

stock, carefully set aside.

others are plunged

into hot water or baked, in order to

chrysalis, to
silk

then

the enclosed

prevent perforation and spoiling of the

from the moth forcing

wound

kill

its

and disposed

off

swept and garnished,

way
of,

shut

is

out.

-The

and the

up

silk is

building,

await

to

the

hatching of the crop of eggs, simultaneously with the

appearance of the leaves of the mulberry- trees that

surround

its site,

the following year.

The mulberry and

other fruit-trees in the Lofab

possess also great attractions in the proper season

to another species of living creature, not quite so

innocent nor so simple in

lately described

for

it is

its

habits

famous

as

for the

the

one

number of

bears that visit the trees to feast upon the luscious

product of their branches.

Their greed oftentimes

proves their destruction

engaged

for,

in the pleasant

occupation of taking their dessert, they

fall

easy

The Happy

208

victims to any one

who

likes to take the trouble of

shooting them as they

sit

ing for them on their

way

their enjoyment.

Valley.

perched up
to

or watch-

aloft,

and from the scene of

Bears are found

in all parts of

Kashmir, and although not so numerous as formerly

every European visiting the Valley being desirous

and usually fulfilling his desire of taking a shot

them are still very common, more particularly
the

of

part

Nowboog
Panjal.

country just described,

in

in

the

and on the slopes of the Pir

There are two varieties of this animal
valley,

met with
variety,

the

at

in

this

The brown

country.

which generally resides high up

or

red

in

the

mountains, arid the black, lower down, also to be

found during the summer and autumn near the

villages or patches of cultivated

and vegetables.
form their chief

for fruit

and

fruit

ground searching

Although grass, roots,

diet, and they are usually

classed as herbivorous animals, there

is

no doubt

that they are partly carnivorous, as the shepherd in

this

country knows to his cost

killed

for

and eaten by them, and any

animal, such as a
their reach

hearty meal
mir,

and

is

cow or

many sheep
sick or

are

wounded

horse, that falls within

by master Bruin, and a

the carcase.
Bears in Kash-

readily killed

made

suppose

off

in all other countries

where they

Adventure with a Bear.

are to be found,

seem

power of smell

to possess the

to a remarkable degree,

and

it

209

behoves the hunter

to be very careful- to avoid their exercising

faculty,

or success will not attend

secure a skin.

It

is

said,

but

his

efforts

craving for the

flesh

to

cannot answer

for the truth of the assertion, that they

inordinate

this

of

have an

the unclean

animal, and that any traveller in this region will

most probably have his tent or hut invaded by a

bear, if he himself or his servants leaves an open
tin of

bacon, such as the Englishman loves in the

That they certainly come very

the abode of man in this country

East, lying about.

near,
I

if

not

into,

can well affirm

who

for at

one place our servants,

usually slept outside our tent, displayed great

unwillingness to do so, on account, as they said, of

the bears, and crowded instead, in a compact body
for

mutual protection, into a small one used for the

storage of our luggage and supplies.

And

again,

when encamped in a pine forest on a slope of the

Panjal, we were roused from sleep by our little dog
barking most furiously, and endeavouring to get at

something under our camp-bed, which finally in the

confusion escaped under the fly of the tent, and
which, although

cannot affirm

it

as a

fact, it

being
dark at the time, was thought both by myself and

The Happy

2io

my

servants,

to be

no

who pursued

less

Valley.

it

for

some

little

than a small bear.

This animal, although

it

affords

some

and more amusement

to the sportsman,

the

game

many

distance,

varieties of

to

slight sport
is

but one of

be met with

in

Kash-

mir and adjoining countries, and which, although

not so plentiful as
those

who

in

former days, yet affords to

fear neither hard

work nor exposure

good sport as the heart of man can

years so

more

much

desire.

Of

as

late

shooting has been carried on in the

accessible parts of the Valley, that to insure

good bags being made

it is

incumbent on the hunter

go now further afield, and seek in the regions

more inaccessible to the ordinary traveller for the

to

of the chase, which are nowhere more

trophies

marked and varied than

in the

country

now under

Regarding the best time for shooting

and about Kashmir, from the middle of April to

consideration.
in

the beginning of July, and from September to the

end of November, are perhaps the chief months of

the year, heavy rain intervening between the two
periods

while the best ground

is

also at that time

covered with flocks and herds sent up from the

lower parts of the Valley for grazing purposes,
with the result of disturbing and driving away
the

game

in their vicinity.

all

Tiger Cats.

Of the

animals affording sport, leopards are found

round the Valley, and

on the

'

margs/ or
mountain downs, where they occasionally commit
great havoc amongst the sheep and cattle feeding on
the rich pasture of these charming places. There is
all

chiefly

a species of wild or tiger-cat met with

more

tains,

and

its vicinity,

somewhat
it

derives

name.

moun-

Poshiana

most beautifully marked,

the royal animal from which

which

similar to
its

believe, about

particularly,

in the

is

In size

the familiar tabby, and

rather larger than

of the most fierce and

is

'A

intractable disposition.

it is

had pro-

friend of ours

cured a live one in the mountains and brought

to Srinagar, where, secured

round

its

neck,

it

was

by a chain

to a collar

up near the door of

tied

it

his

and being a young animal we entertained

hopes of eventually taming it, and rendering it
somewhat domesticated. But, despite all our efforts,
house

its

naturally fierce nature

was not

to be

overcome

by kindness or sweet persuasion, and it remained,

as always, the most vindictive, cruel-looking speci-

men
its

of the cat tribe

ever saw.

possessor the task which

lay

did not envy

before

him,

in

carrying out his intention of taking the interesting

creature to

India,

and subsequently

Tigers do not penetrate so

p 2

to

England.

far as the Valley,

and

The Happy

212
the hyaena, so

met with

common
This

here.

is

in

Valley.

India,

is

found

over the

all

a black variety of the latter has also been

in particular places.

The

wild dogs, or 'dholes/ inhabitants of the

deepest recesses of wild mountain

ally visit

more

ever

also the case with the wolf,

but jackals and foxes are abundant

Valley

if

rarely

some

forests, occasion-

parts of the Valley in large packs,

particularly the

Wardwan

but as a rule they

must be sought for further north, in Dras and Ladakh.

This curious animal, of which there is no reason to
think that any of

them are the wild

once domestic races,

is

in size

offspring of

between a wolf and

a jackal, with long legs, sharp muzzle, pointed ears,

and

straight

tail,

usually of a light bay colour, and

endowed with great courage,

it is

gregarious,

animal

and

activity.

be not incapable of domestication

difficult to tame them.
They are in habit

They appear
but

strength,

to

and hunt

they come

in packs,

across,

running down any

and

is

it

said,

when

pressed by hunger, have even destroyed children, and

sometimes grown persons. One remarkable characteristic they possess, which may be said to be
exhibited by the domesticated
is

dog

in

a lesser degree,

their hostility to the feline race of animals,

they destroy whenever the

chance

of

so

whom
doing

Deer.
presents

as

itself,

if

they were

instruments

the

appointed by Nature to keep within limit the super-

abundant increase of the great

Of the

deer

felinse.

'

tribe,

the lordly barasing,' or 'hungul/

found at certain seasons, more particularly towards

the end of September, in many parts of Kashmir.
is

This

is

the best time for shooting them, their horns

This

being then fully developed.

nearest approach

met with

in

fine stag

is

the

the East to the red deer

of Europe, and although larger and with bigger

resembles that variety

horns, in general appearance

it

somewhat

be found and stalked

closely.

It is to

the elevated

downs and

in the winter

approaches close to the

forests of the country,

villages.

that time they are to be killed very easily

are

weak from want of

food,

villagers,

and

At

for they

and cannot move

quickly over the deep snow, and so

prey to the Kashmiri

in

fall

mode

an easy

of slaying

them despised by the genuine sportsman.

The
musk-deer is found in all parts of Kashmir at a
certain elevation, particularly along the Sind Valley,

and

is

pretty generally

elevated mountainous

Central Asia.
differs,

its

regions and

all

over the

table-lands

of

This type of the family Mosckidte

notwithstanding

or deer, in

distributed

its

name, from the

want of horns, and

in the

Cervicto,

long canines

The Happy

214

Valley.

of the males projecting beyond the

defensive purposes.
it

much

is

secretion,
is

and used

digging up of roots, and for fighting or

the

in

lips,

In this country, as elsewhere,

pursued, on account of

known

its

some quantity
but not so much

as musk, of which

yearly exported from

Kashmir

as one would imagine, considering the

Their

the animals.
solitary,

odoriferous

habits,

however, nocturnal and

joined to their extreme

or barking deer,

found

is

render

timidity,

no easy matter.

their destruction

number of

The

'

khakar,'

on the southern and

western slopes of the Pir Panjal, and on this range

the
also

'

'

markhor and

met

with,

in

now come

many
'rivers
in

the
to

affords

good sport

choose to follow

to

this

retreats.

chief varieties of big

game

to

be

and adjacent hills, and we

the winged kind, of which there are
Valley,

species.

and

spirits as

mountain

its

Such are the

found

surrow,' or mountain goat, are

and the ibex

such adventurous
animal in

'

lakes,

In a country possessing so
it

many

follows naturally that waterfowl

great abundance are to be met with in the winter

months, when, to avoid the intense cold of the more

northern regions of Central Asia, they seek this
sheltered spot, departing, however, at the

of spring.

Every

first

sign

species nearly of this description

Birds.
of

game

is

represented, particularly on

well

Woolar, and other lakes.

moor-hens are

Geese, ducks,

found, the

all

two

the

teal, coots,

latter,

and even

certain varieties of ducks, remaining after the others

have departed, to breed on the sedgy margins

of the water.

That magnificent

bird,

the

royal

partridge, three or four times the size of our com-

mon
the

English variety,

is

found occasionally inhabiting

snowy Panjdls on both

sides of the valley,

the black, grey, snow, and the 'chikore' or

layan red-legged variety, are

latter,

abundantly

in

many

varieties are the argus,

snow,

all

met

and

Hima-

with, especially the

parts.

'

moonhal,'

Of pheasants,
'

koklas,'

the

and the

of which must be searched for in their

favourite haunts, as also the quail, snipe,

and plover.

Several smaller birds are pretty common, such as

the hoopoe, the mina, the cuckoo, and other varieties

but of singing-birds no great show

is

made.

Ex-

cepting the Himalayan blackbird, and the bulbul,

and a few

musical, the forests

with

little

by no means full and

and glades of Kashmir resound

others, with notes

of the cheerful noise of the feathered

songsters that add such a charm to similar places in

England and elsewhere.

Birds of prey, as in other parts of the East, are

common

enough, and there are two or three varieties

216

The Happy

met

of the eagle to be

Valley.

with, as well as

many

species

of hawks, while crows similar in appearance to our

own

home

at

are abundant in every quarter of the

province.

One

curious fact in connection with this subject

may be

noticed in conclusion, and that

absence

in

is

the total

any part of the Valley proper of mon-

keys or hares.

The

first-named animal

common enough

is

marches away from the country,

recollection

serves,

was seen

a few

my

but, as far as

by us for the

first

time after crossing the Pir Panjal Pass on our

re-

turn journey, the height of which or the cold ex-

perienced at certain times of the year,

influences

which with

its fruit

perfect paradise

reason

up

habits

their

why

to

hares,

to a few

in

avoiding

the

perhaps
Valley,

trees

and vines would prove a

this

mischievous order.

common

in India,

marches from

The

and met with

Baramula, avoid the

one of the most singular features connected with its natural history and difficult of
Valley,

is

explanation.

Likelier

ground

for their

harbouring

and preservation could scarcely be found in any

other part of the world, and our English hares

would thrive and multiply

alarming extent.

The

there,

am

certain, to

Indian variety, however,

an
I

Indian Hare.

presume, in the same manner as the monkey, dreads

the cold, and the

little

species

met with

in Tibet,

on

the other side, being a true Alpine hare, prefers to

dwell

among

rocks, sand,

and thorns, rather than

seek the green and succulent food so dear to this

class of

animal generally, and which grows

and luxuriant profusion

Happy

Valley.

in

so

many

in

wild

parts of the

CHAPTER

X.

to Gulmarg
Barra Kountra Babamirishi The Gulmarg, or
'Mountain of Flowers'
European Visitors to Gulmarg
Log-

Road

Their

houses

Their Advantages

Construction

Their

Disad-

vantages View of the Valley from Gulmarg The Wet Season

Its Discomfort
Apathy of Hindu Servants Life on the Marg

Our Church
Killan
of the

The Guluwans,

Marg
Chakk Family

Kashmir

Road

Flowers and Ferns

Insect Life on the

Their Habits and

The Zearat

The

Mode

of Life

Snakes

in

Departure from Gulmarg

Effects of the Rarefied Air

to Srinagar

Marg

or 'Horse-keepers;' Descendants

of a Rishi

The

Rishis of

Kashmir

Conclusion of Tour in Western Part of Kashmir.

Pattan

will
in

now

retrace our steps to Sopoor,

order to proceed to Gulmarg.

old and dilapidated

quitting this

After
town,

an easy march of about eighteen miles

brings us to the well-known and charming mountain retreat.
Srinagar,

routes

to the

westward of

Gulmarg may be reached by

but the

prettiest,

Lying

is

easiest,

the one

having already

in

we

several

most convenient, and the

are

now about

to follow,

our wanderings arrived at the

starting-point, which,

if

we were

leaving the capital

Babamirishi.

same

for the

ulterior destination, could

direct in twelve hours' journey

by

be reached

boat.

The

first

from Sopoor to Barra Kountra,

an easy march of between twelve and thirteen miles.
The road is wide nearly all the distance, passing

stage on the road

for

some

little

is

way by

the edge of the great lake,

then by a village at the mouth of a valley formed

of

two

which

'

kareewahs/ and

quitting,

alluvial

on

to

Naopore,

ascends and crosses the natural

it

on the

deposit

then

right,

running

the

into

pretty valley of the Ningil river, and, continuing

along

right bank, brings us to our destination

its

for the night, a village of

situated

have

hillside

lately traversed.

Kountra

Barra
little

on the

over

five

to

some considerable

overlooking the vale

The second

the marg,

miles.

size,

The

stage

is

we

from

a walk of only a

road, first turning to

and passing through a gap, enters a narrow

glen traversed by a small stream, and containing
one or two small villages and farm-houses. Conthe

left

up the glen the path leads to the foot of

the mountains, and a steep and rough ascent of
nearly a mile brings us to a place called Baba-

tinuing

a small grassy plain on the top of the

lower range of hills, deriving its name from the
mirishi,

'

adjoining

zearat

'

of a rishi, who, dying about four

220

The Happy

centuries

being held

medans,

was here

ago,

it

in
is

His memory

interred.

extreme veneration by the Mohamone of the most frequented places of

this description in the

Leaving

Valley.

this

holy

whole of the Valley.

site,

the path leads up towards

Gulmarg, distant a mile and a half, but fully one

thousand feet higher up the mountain side. For
the

first

rough

half mile or so the ascent

but after that

is

is

surmounted a

steep and

level stretch

of about the same distance,

through a grassy but

narrow

defile,

bearing to the

main

leads us into the

left,

valley, and,

another half mile shows us the

usual encamping-ground of this favourite sanitarium,

when

the numerous tents and log-houses, that meet

our gaze on our

arrival, are

evidences of the high

estimation in which the flowery mountain

as a place of residence

by the yearly

is

held

visitors to the

Vale of Kashmir.
'

Gulmarg, or the monntnin of

flowers,' is

a beau-

mountain common, a lovely spot on the downs

of the Panjal, flat, green, and open, about two miles

tiful

long, with

a varying width from a few hundred

yards to nearly a mile.

by

hills,

On

all

sides

it

is

bounded

from which project numerous spurs

form of grassy
surface of the

knolls, covered, as

is

also tbe

in the

whole

marg, with flowers of every hue.

221

Gulmarg.

/name 'gul,' a flower, and 'marg/ a

mountain^ The surrounding hills are densely clothed
Hence

its

with forests of pine trees, and a small stream winding throughout

entire length lends

its

picture which, in the scenic disposition of

and glades,

is

life

to the

its

woods

rendered as highly picturesque as any

spot in the Valley, partaking more, however, of the

character

sylvan

of an

English

the lofty ridges of the Himalayas.

feet

above the

cold, bracing,
falls

that

summit of one of

of a natural formation on the

3000

park than

Situated

some

level of Srinagar, the climate

and salubrious

and although the

pretty heavily at times,

it is

much

is

rain

preferred as

a place of residence to the lower parts of the Valley

and the

and unhealthy months

At this season most of the

capital during the hot

of July and August.

European visitors to Kashmir, including the Resident and other officials, wend their way to the
mountain

retreat, which,

unsought and unvisited

for

the greater portion of the year, becomes for a time

the

scene of

characteristic

large

that
of

bustling

our countrymen and

the

natural

women, a

number of whom are here congregated

gether on a small space, and

free

activity,

and gipsy-like character.

say, in the wilds,

Gulmarg

all

leading a

life

Situated, as one

to-

of

'a

may

contains no houses or

The Happy

222

Valley.

any other buildings of a permanent nature, and the

only means open to the visitor to render himself
comfortable and defy the weather

is

to dwell within

the canvas walls of his tent, or build

wooden hut of a

primitive

himself a

and Crusoe-like charac-

Both these methods of housing oneself have

ter.

their advocates,

many

preferring the

which,

tent,

pitched upon the top of one of the knolls for the

sake of dryness,

further rendered weather proof

is

by a framework of wood supporting a covering or

roof of boughs, leaves, and earth, an ingenious contrivance which fairly answers the purpose for which
it

is

The

intended.

stable habitation, one in which also a fire

the

lighted,

damp,

be

may be

evenings being sometimes cold and

particularly after a

easily to

more

majority, however, like a

effected, for

heavy storm.

wood

in

This

any quantity

is
is

readily obtainable from the fallen trees in the sur-

rounding

forests,

and a few rupees are

sufficient to

obtain the services of the native artizans

thither yearly,
tects

The

and

and gladly

builders.

Very

result of their labour,

incredibly short time,

only one room.

and comfortable.

If

is

fair

resort

themselves as archi-

workmen they

which

is

completed

are.

in

an

a log hut, usually containing

rude

The

offer

who

in construction,

fire-place,

built

it

is

dry

of stones

Life at Gulmarg.

and mud, answers

its

even of setting

purpose very

risk

fire

to

223
well, and, at the

your habitation, which

happened in our case, is usually crammed full of

wood, whose cheerful blaze is very acceptable, and
not obtainable by the dwellers in tents, except out
in the

The

open

only

near the entrance of their abodes.

air

weak

spot in these temporary shelters

which always seems to leak in

very stormy weather, and I have a lively recollection
is

perhaps the

roof,

we

of the discomfort

contrivances
defect

endured, and the shifts and

we employed

to

guard against this

our otherwise happy and comfortable

in

home.

We paid our visit to

there about

the

6th.

Gulmarg in August, arriving

For the two first weeks

following our arrival the rain poured

down with

hardly any intermission, a rather unusual occurrence

in

Kashmir, even

in the

wet season.

We

were so

empty hut the day we

and hungry, after a long and

fortunate as to secure an
arrived, wet,

cold,

wearisome march, owing to

occupier

moving

on another

its

proprietor and former

into a larger

spot.

It

well-built, single- roomed

was a

hut with an open verandah in

as

it

did on

the

ridge

one he had erected

front, and,

directly

standing

overlooking the

Valley, the whole expanse of the Vale lay spread

The Happy

224

Valley.

out, a glorious
forests, lakes,

many
and

adding
in

and the waving

parts,

rice,

panorama of mountains, meadows,

rivers, and canals, the rich foliage in

together with

life

its

fields of

villages

golden

corn,

and farm-houses,

to the scene nearer to us

while

away

the distance the city of Srinagar was plainly

discernible,

with the two eminences close by of

the Takt-i-Suliman and the

Harri Parbut, which

appeared, however, as mere ant-hills in comparison

with the lofty and precipitous sides of the ridges

that formed the

In
background of the picture.
our humble dwelling-house we were snug enough,

barring the
the

roof,

discomfort of the leakage through

little

which sometimes even amounted to a

perfect shower-bath during a

heavy

fall

of rain,

employment of waterproofs and

Under the shelter of
keep us dry.

necessitating the

umbrellas to

these protections

we

sat during the

day and

slept

at night, resigning ourselves with calmness to what

appeared to be the inevitable for despite all our
;

attempts to render our habitation impervious to

moisture by piling fresh branches and stamping

down mud and

earth on the roof,

it

still

continued

as leaky as an old sieve, the rain being too

and continuous
percolation.

As

for

our puny

heavy

efforts to restrain its

the only result obtained after

all

Hindu

Servants.

225

our exertions seemed to be the production of very

muddy, instead of clear water, we

and waited patiently for better days.

came
and

for gradually the storms

lighter in character,

weeks ceased

and

And

were

at the

well alone,

let

these soon

less frequent

end of the two

altogether, glorious weather following,

which soon dissipated every memory of our former

discomfort, and enabled us to enter upon the pleasant

and

by the dwellers on
on the mountain meadow being

careless existence followed

'

marg/ our life

perhaps the most enjoyable time we spent during
the whole of our stay in the Kashmirian Valley.
the

There was quite a colony of us collected here,

with numerous natives and shopkeepers from the
capital to supply our wants,

a perfect bazaar being

formed at one extremity of the 'marg.' This proved

to be a downright godsend to the Hindu servants
of

the

visitors,

who

daily

gathered

discuss the affairs of their masters

and bewail

their

hard fate

in

part

for they possess

and

is

this trial

the only

on their

no idea of the delights

of travelling for travelling' sake,

countries

and uncongenial

Their love of gain

inducement that prompts them to

own

and mistresses,

leaving the sunny

plains of their birth, for such a cold

country and climate.

together to

or to see

new

as for admiring the beautiful or the

The Happy

226

picturesque in nature,
a

monkey

and break

Valley.

could as readily imagine

be suddenly endowed with speech,

to

as a

into acclamations of joy,

Hindu,

or other inhabitant of India belonging to the class

from whence

servants

are

taken,

make any

to

observation on the scenery, or to regard with any

attention

any unfamiliar tree or shrub, unless actuated

by the hope of finding something edible growing

upon its branches. But they love money and for
extra pay and a small subsistence allowance are
;

willing to forsake for a time their beloved

wander, they

know

old sahib, or

some other

home, and

not where, in the train of their

traveller in these regions,

grumbling and complaining the whole time, but

the fear of losing their hardly-

rarely deserting,

earned wage, and the expense they would incur for

the return journey, being strong incentives to their

remaining

No

in

a measure upon their good behaviour.

matter

in

gathered together,

what country Englishmen are

there will be some variety of

forward.
sport or pastime going
spect

we were

And

not behind at Gulmarg

in this re-

for a cricket

and croquet-ground had been most artistically laid

out on the green and level surface in the centre of
the meadow, and a race-course,
posts

and

rails,

marked out

with sundry hurdles and

\vith

artificial

Worship on the Marg.

ditches, testified to the fact that the truly British

was

sport of horse -racing

followed

although in a strange country, and far away

out,

from home.
for

also at times

Our

wants were not forgotten

spiritual

on the summit of a grass-covered mound was

erected a small

wooden

church, primitive enough in

on Sundays with as devout

a congregation as would be found in any nearer
home, towards which our thoughts could scarcely
appearance, but

fail

filled

to be directed, as the familiar

simple but beautiful service

we worshipped
accustomed to

none the

fell

words of our own

upon the

our Maker, not as

in stately edifices,

less earnest

ear,

while

we had been

but in a manner

and devout, although

o

offered

up within the rough wooden walls of our temple

in the wilderness.

Life flowed on most pleasantly at this charming

and we employed a good portion of our time

each day in collecting and preserving various speci-

spot,

mens of

many

ferns

and

flowers,

varieties of which,

everywhere so abundant,

growing wild

in

rank pro-

were familiar to us as being cultivated with

care and attention in our native country, while there
fusion,

were also many unknown. The whole surface of

the marg was one mass of blossom, yielding rich
'

'

and rare treasures of the

Q

floral

world to the enter-

The Happy

228

Valley.

This place was also

prising botanist or collector.

rich in insect
for very

life,

more

particularly in butterflies,

few moths were met with and having been

;

from youth upward of an entomological turn of mind,

a collection was formed, which

is

interesting as having

afforded fifteen species found in England, as well as

several varieties pretty abundantly distributed over

other parts of Europe.

There

a similar

is

meadow

above Gulmarg, called Killan,

which, although somewhat longer and wider, is not
nearly so pretty, but was interesting to us on acabout

1,000

count of

its

feet

approach to the snow

other botanical specimens not to

down.

It is

and affording
be met with lower
line,

about two and a half miles or so from

Gulmarg, and can be reached by several paths

leading through the fine dense pine forest upon
its south-western side, the haunt of sundry bears

and other animals, and apparently the favoured

retreat of the 'guluwans' or horsekeepers,

who

tend

the herds of cattle upon these mountain-downs, and

whose roughly-built shanties or

often met with on our road.

tattered tents were

This curious race of people are the descendants

of the old and warlike tribe of the Chakks, a family
that in former days

gave

rulers

and warriors

to

Kashmir, and who bravely resisted the invasion of

Guluwans.
their country

by Akbar.

229

In later times they have,

however, only been remarkable for their predatory

and during the time of the Moguls and the

Pathans they became formidable bands of brigands,

habits,

infesting

making

some of the

it

principal roads in the country,

dangerous for one to travel alone.

They

have rarely intermarried with any other caste but

they are few in number now for at the beginning
;

of this century, having

made themselves

so ob-

noxious by their murdering and plundering propensities, they

retreats,
fate,

and

were hunted down

all

who were

left, in

in their

mountain

dread of the same

took to more peaceful avocations, their de-

scendants, and the sole representatives of the great

and powerful Chakks, being at the present day the

dirty, half-starved, and fierce-looking men engaged
in the

of

mild and pastoral pursuit of tending droves

horses,

sheep,

and cows upon Gulmarg and

similar places.

was a pleasant walk up to Killan through the

forest, in the damp and gloomy recesses of which
It

many

rare

and beautiful ferns were

to be found,

and

one could grope about amidst fallen trees, leaves,,

and rocks without the dread that accompanies any
such acts in India of coming upon a cobra or some
other lively snake.
Snakes, indeed, are not un-

The Happy

230

known

in the Valley,

uncommon, except

Valley.

but they appear to be rather

in

particular

on

places,

the

northern side of the Valley, on account of their

liking to sun themselves

upon the bold bare rocks

that everywhere protrude through the surface of the

whereas on the other aspects,

ground upon that

side,

more

on the southern, the

particularly

where much
Certain

it is

soil is

every-

thicker, and with much more vegetation.

that very few are met with; I only saw

one the whole time of our journeyings, and that was

much resembling in apcommon snake at home. The boa or

a non- poisonous variety,

pearance the
rock-snake

and there

is

is

said to

have been seen

in

Kashmir,

a very poisonous reptile found on rocky

places on the eastern side of the Valley, about a

yard long, with a very thick body, and an appearance

altogether very repulsive.

This, however,

can

only state on the authority of others, never having

met with an example, and never having even heard

of any one who had seen a reptile answering to the

The

marg/ which

lay im-

mediately under a lofty ridge of the Pir

Panjal,

foregoing description.

whose deeper
snow, was an
said,

some

'

and ravines contain perpetual

interesting place, affording, as I have
gullies

rare plants, although vegetation

rule nothing like so luxuriant as

was as a

on the common*

Killan Marg.
lower down.

There were

and

streams

several

from the ravines

glaciers at different spots,

of

in the

231

icy -cold

water

mountain side

poured
its

snow

end, formed from the melting of the

crevices of the rocks, affording

at

us the

upper
in

the

means of

cooling our beverages at the time of the usual halt

for

We

tiffin.

experienced at this place some con-

siderable difficulty in breathing,

much more

so than

Gulmarg, where many suffer great inconvenience

from this cause, attributable of course to the rarefied

at

condition of the atmosphere at the height

standing,

some

we were

1,000 feet above the sea level.

Towards the end of August every one commences

to

make

cool

preparations for departure,

and pleasant

and we

will

now

in the

being then

it

lower parts of the Valley

follow their example, as

we have

yet to explore and describe the unvisited eastern

portion of the country, which contains

able ruins, springs,

One

can proceed to

and other

some remark-

interesting objects.

this part of the

Valley from

by skirting the forests on the slopes

of the Panjal and making for Shupiyan, and thence
on to Nohan, Vernag, and Islamabad but it is a

Gulmarg

direct,

tedious and uninteresting journey, no place of any

interest

being met with until our arrival at the

first-named town, already visited on our road to

The Happy

232

Valley.

Such being

Srinagar from the plains of India.

the case,

we once more proceed

to the capital

by

another and more direct route, and, after arrival

and a necessary
is

whatever

halt to lay in stores or

required, start off to the eastward, the inspection

of which will complete our tour of the Valley of

Kashmir.

Leaving the

the village of Pattan,

'

marg then, we make for

some fourteen miles away,
'

the road passing through Babamirishi, the

same

as

followed on our journey thither.

Here
the

'

died

there
'

to

be seen, as already mentioned,

of a famous

zearat

some

is

rishi,

Baba Pyoomden, who

His shrine

four centuries ago.

is

one

of the most venerated, as well as the richest, in

the whole of the Valley.

attached to
reside

in

it,

.but this

It

has also a monastery

which a few

'

'

rishis

or

once-important class of

medans are shorn now of much of

monks

Moham-

their influence

and importance, and the few that are

to

be met

with appear to be simply guardians of the tomb

of

some former canonised

saint of their order.

former days they were an important

In

class, peculiar

something akin to the fakirs of HinduOriginally wanderers in the jungle, they be-

to Kashmir,
stan.

came possessed
of the

Mogul

in time, chiefly

through the

liberality

emperors, of lands, and convents, or

Rishis.

233

For many years these Mohammedan

monasteries.

were much looked up to by the other inhabitants of the Valley, and being pious and blame-

ascetics

less

men, doubtless effected some good

but they

gradually lost their prestige after the

decline of

the Delhi emperors, since which time

is

real rishi

has existed

in

it

said no

Kashmir.

an easy road leads past the

villages of Ajeebal, Khipore, and Chandesir, five
miles from which stands Pattan, at the base of a

Leaving

this place,

large kareewah, which

it

From

order to gain the village.

is

necessary to descend in

is

Pattan to Srinagar

a distance of seventeen miles, over a

road leading through the

down
the

fields,

fairly level

and subsequently

the avenue of poplars near the entrance to

Sher Garhi,

Kadal, or

first

ground, which

finally

passing over the Ameeri

bridge, on to the usual encamping-

we

left

some pages back

of the western portion of the

Happy

for the tour

Valley.

CHAPTER XL
The Eastern

Portion of Kashmir

Objects of Interest

Journey by

Doongah Pandritan Temple at Pandritan Town of Pampoor

The Saffron-grounds at Pampoor Cultivation of the Crocus sativu s
Its Uses
Quantity grown in Valley
Ironworks in Kashmir Ruins at Ladoo

Saffron

Shar

Avantipore

Town

Bijbehara

of Islamabad

Sacred Trout

Junction of the

Its

The Spring

Mineral Springs

Temple at Payech
Veshau River Kanbal

The Anat Nag

Legend Caves of
Sacred Cave of Ambernath

former Greatness
of

Bawan

Its

Bhomjoo The Liddar Valley

Legend of the Cave Road to the Cave The Sheesha Nag
Description of the Cave Pilgrimage to Ambernath Hindu Cere-

mony

at the

Cave

HERE
seen

in

Vigne's Description and Remarks.

are

many

objects of interest to be

the eastern portion of Kashmir,

such as the principal springs and sources

of the Jhelam, the ruins at Martand, the

old town of Islamabad, and

valleys,

as the

Nowboog and

places are easily reached,

and

if

some smaller

Liddar.

All these

one cares to under-

some rough and arduous marching a visit can

be paid to the Wardwan, and the celebrated Cave
take

of Ambernath.

considerable portion of this tour

Pandritan.

may be made by

235
of the

water, navigation

river

being feasible as far as Kambal, a good two days'

journey by boat from Srinagar, embracing in its

course many of the places to be inspected, which

one can land and

the remainder being reached

visit,

by easy marches from the last-named

village.

Quit-

ting then our encamping- ground at the capital in

the

now

familiar 'doongah,' the boat proceeds very

slowly along the base of the mountains stretching

out from the Throne of Solomon, the river at this

spot making several very large curves in

its

course

which rather impedes the work of towing the craft

up-stream. After proceeding in a calm and leisurely

manner thus
at Pandritan,

for a couple of hours or so,

we

once a large and flourishing

capital of the province, but

insane act of one of

now, alas

ancient rulers,

its

arrive

city,

the

through the
a mere heap

of ruins.
It is stated that at

one time

this city

covered an

extent of ground of nearly three miles, and contained

some remarkable

founded by Asoka,

in

buildings, notably a shrine

which was kept a tooth of

the great Buddha, the founder of the then popular

religion, of

which

this

monarch was one of the most

strenuous upholders.
sacred place, and there

Nothing
is

little

is

left

of this once

to linger over or to

The Happy

236

Valley.

memories of former days

recall the

for with the

exception of a small temple nothing escaped the

devastation caused by the act of the

manyu, who

some

in

fit

of rage, or

cause not exactly known,

is

King Abhifrom some other

stated to have been

the

author of the destruction of this

city

by means of

shape,

is

This temple, pyramidal

fire.

built of stone, the roof

in

being elaborately

carved, and in architectural design

at

flourishing

is

similar to that

Martand, the apparent type of

all

most

the

ancient buildings of this description in the Valley.

stands in the centre of a pond, encircled by

It

a grove of willows,
inspecting

its

which prevents many from

interior.

old temples in India

For a

similar reason, other

and elsewhere are often

difficult

of access, the erection of these buildings in water

having for

its

object the placing

them under the

protection of that race of deities, the 'nagas,'

dwell beneath

its

surface,

who

and render them more

holy by resting upon the sacred element.

Pursuing our course

we

arrive, after

about eight

hours' journey, although the distance

by land from

the

the

capital

half- ruined

is

only eight miles,

town of Pampoor.

at

The

old

river,

but

which

has been flowing towards the north, at this part of

its course takes a bold sweep eastwards, and the

2 37

Pampoor.
town, which

is

have been founded some

said to

thousand years ago, stands on the right or northern

bank, on an open plain or down commanding a fine

and extensive view of the Valley.

as

its

name denotes

was of considerable importance

in

in

'

in

former days

it

but at present there

to interest the stranger

few houses,

city,

Pampoor being a corruption

of Padma-pur, the 'city of Vishnu

is little

Hindu

for

it

contains but

nowise remarkable, an old mosque,

which some very

fine

woodwork

to be seen,

is

being about the chief specimen of architecture worth

The

visiting.

at this place,

richest soil in the Valley

and

this fact has

said to be

is

been taken advantage

of through ages past for the cultivation of the Crocus

the stamens of

sativuSy

saffron, is
try,

known

as

of commerce in this coun-

saffron-grounds occupy a large space upon

around Pampoor, some ten or twelve

circumference it is said, and its cultivation

plains

miles in
is

article

flowers,

yielding a large revenue to the government.

The
the

a chief

whose

of remote antiquity.

placed

upon

If

any

reliance

the wild statements

in

is

the

to

works

treating of the ancient history of the country,

very remote age

may be

of this industry indeed

be

attributed to the existence

for therein

it is

stated that

the soldiers of Alexander, during his invasion of

The Happy

238

Valley.

the Valley, were lost in admiration at the sight of

such extensive beds of a beautifully and delicatelytinted purple flower.

in the world's history,

Without going so far .back

there is no reason to doubt,

however, that saffron has been, as

most extensively cultivated

province, giving

of people,

who

in

is

this

the case,
of

part

a large

to

employment

now

the

number

in the picking season are zealously

watched by Sepoys, to prevent

their appropriation

of this valuable commodity.

The

are arranged in parterres

and preparation

of

plants,

after careful

ploughing

has been

the ground

which

made,

flower in October, and are then plucked, and their

different coloured

The

stamens picked out and separated.

red and white stamens only are of value, the

yellow being generally given to the

former,

however, after

proper

cattle.

preparation,

The
yield

that principal ingredient of Oriental cooking, the

well-known

dye-stuff,

and the

article called saffron

employed in medicine, the yearly exports of which

from Kashmir to India amount in value to the sum
of twenty thousand rupees.
to

This

what no doubt was exported

is

in

a small amount

former days, for

a large portion of the supply in ancient times was

yielded by this country but the demand also has
;

fallen off;

and as

its

medicinal value has long been

239

Saffron.

uses to which

is

needed

now

applied

little

declining, very
it

is

in

Europe

for the

the flavouring and

colouring confectionary and other articles of food.

a curious fact in relation to this subject that

It is

in that division of

our

own country

saffron has always been,

and

is still,

called Cornwall

largely used in

several articles of diet as a flavouring

principle,

and

am

and colouring

given to understand that

its

employment has been known there from time im-

As

memorial.

this article is

one of the principal

ingredients in the preparation of the various articles

of food

more

consumed

in

the different countries of Asia,

particularly in India

and the

central parts of

that quarter of the globe, might not

like

a custom handed

this part of

down from

its

general use,

their forbears in

England, be accepted as a further proof

of the supposed direct Asiatic origin of the Cornish

people, connecting their race with the

first

swarm of

Aryan stock on their migration to

Europe, which subsequently became almost entirely

the primitive

colonized

by the successive streams

down from

that

poured

the mother nation on that part of the

Iranian plateau near the

From Pampoor

Hindu Koosh

several small excursions

may be

made, notably to the mineral springs at Weean,

the iron mines a

little

further on,

and the ruins

The Happy

240
at

The

Ladoo.

Valley.

first-named

is

a small village,

three miles to the north-east, and near

some

are three

it

mineral springs, highly impregnated with iron and

sulphur,

and which

medicinal virtues would

in their

be a source of great attraction to

the fortune of any place,

more

invalids,

and make

only situated in

if

some

accessible region.

Two

miles south-east from here

Shar, at the back of which

is

the village of

is

a lofty range of

mountains, containing the ore from which most of

the iron manufactured in the Valley

exist at

in

copper, silver, and gold are

the

smelted,

in

and primitive fashion.

Ironworks also
Soap, some little distance off, and veins of

rude

lead,

is

hills

of the Valley,

known

only waiting for the

experienced hand of a Cornish miner to

rich

and rare

they

will

treasures.

Failing this

never see the light

to exist

rifle

much

their

fear

for in all these years,

although perfectly aware of the existence of such

mineral wealth, the inhabitants of Kashmir have

never made any attempt to ascertain their extent,

or

work them

and

in

any way

iron,

and that of bad

indifferent quality, being the only metal as yet

produced at their hands.

The

ruins at

temple standing

Ladoo, which consist of an old

in

a tank, are about a mile from

Temple at Pdyech.
Shar, but need not detain us

so

241

making our way

back to Pampoor, we take to the boat again, and

a four hours' pull brings us to Karkarpore, where
a halt must be made to visit the temple at Payech,

most beautifully proportioned of

This exquisite
buildings in Kashmir.
the

ing,

one of the

old

Hindu

age,

place,

and

is

fairly

good

all

latest
is

all

the

little

old

build-

and most interesting of the

about six miles off the halting-

very easily reached, the road being

the way.
Being dedicated to Vishnu

as Suryea, or the 'sun god,' the ceiling

is

radiated

so as to represent that orb, small sitting figures of

the popular preserver of the universe being inserted

in

niches on the cornice outside.

Though

small,

being only nine feet square and about six feet high,
it

is,

both

in its exterior

and

and well deserves a

elegant,

interior,
visit.

It

particularly
is

also

in

good preservation, despite the attempts of the

Pathans, when the Valley was under their rule,
to take

it

down and remove

ornament, to the

Some
its

little

it,

doubtless as an

capital.

distance further up the river, and on

right bank, a large ruined city next attracts our

attention,

one of the former

capitals of the province

during the Hindu regime, and called Avantipore,

after the

King Avante Verma,

K

its

reputed founder.

The Happy

242
It

was a

Valley.

flourishing place in the days of yore; but

being deserted for Srinagar,

its

temples and other

most probably overthrown by the Mohammedans, fell into decay, and are only to be traced
buildings,

by the heaps of fallen materials and the stonework

that formed their base.
A long stretch of water,
which takes nearly ten hours, the rapidity
of the current only allowing a mile or so to be
to cover

made

in

an hour, brings us to a part of the Jhelam

On

very wide and deep, and spanned by a bridge.

the

bank

left

stands

the

large

but

somewhat

town of Bijbehara nothing remarkable

being passed on the journey excepting the junction
of the Veshau, one of the largest rivers in the
dilapidated

country, with the stream

which takes
ancient

place

are

now

floating on,

some three miles below

this

city.

The town

of Bijbehara

the houses bearing

Neither

is

is

not very interesting,

somewhat

all

the aspect of decay.

the place itself or the country around

what might be
locality

we

any way picturesque, for the

bare of trees, excepting on the southern

is

called in

side of the river, where a fine grove of chenars

stands, denoting the former site of a once flourishing

garden.

Asoka,

At one time a very

B.C.

250, stood

on

fine temple, built

this spot,

but

it

by

was pulled

Islamabad.

down during
in these

243

the reign of Sikander

matters

may

and the curious

obtain a sight of another fine

old example of these buildings erected on the top

Samma

Thang, that curious conical hill, the

same on which Kashuf is stated to have lived for
of the

several centuries in pious meditation, preparing for

draining the Valley, the

his great act of

mound

being within a short distance of the town.

Kanbal, our present destination,
four

miles

by

land,

is

now

only some

the journey by boat up the

gradually narrowing river occupying, however, four

This

hours.

is

the termination of our water

trip,

the further continuation of the tour having to be

made by

land.

short distance
of interest

The
off,

within

first

stage

is

Islamabad, a very

the starting-point to

many

places

easy reach, as well as several

further away.

Islamabad, the ancient Anat Nag, 'the spring of

Anat,' the serpent of Vishnu,
eternity,

but

now known

nation, which

medan

faith'

signifies

the capital alone excepted.

it

presents, however,

only by

'the

was once the

and the emblem of

its

present desig-

abode of the Moham-

la'rgest

town

in

Kashmir,

To the traveller of to-day

but a shadow of

its

former

greatness and prosperity, the few houses that are

left,

some of which are highly ornamented with the

The Happy

244

Valley.

and lattice-work peculiar to the country, appearing half-ruined and neglected, affording a speak-

trellis

ing evidence of the past and present condition of the

and joyous prosperity having fled the

The rapacity of its Pathan and
place long since.
Sikh governors was the means of conducing to this

town,

its

light

dire result.

The town

is

situated about a mile from

the right bank of the Jhelam, on the westward of

and

close under an elevated

'

kareewah,' the largest

of these curious table-lands, being six miles long,

and as many broad, and from the

several springs issue

foot of

which

the principal, the Anat Nag,

being close by a pleasure garden called the Sirkari

Bagh.
the

hill,

This holy fountain issues from the foot of

and flows through a

series of canals

and

up with stone, to the outside of an enclosure formed by a huge wall surrounding the site,
where the waters then fall to the ground in the form
tanks, built

of a cascade of considerable

and canals are

filled

by the Hindus

size.

AH

the tanks

with trout, and being considered

as sacred, they are bountifully fed

by

the pious worshippers at the fount, in consequence

of which they

become very tame, and

goodly proportions.

Many

similar

attain

springs

to

exist

near this spot, the waters of one or two of them

being conducted to the town by aqueducts for useful

Bawan.

One

purposes.

rock

is

that issues from a fissure in the

and

sulphureous

highly

doubt

without

possessing

245

active

warm,

slightly

medicinal

pro-

perties.

Some

direct road
is

miles

five

away from Islamabad, by

on the northern side of the

'

the

kareewah/

to be seen a spring, a very sacred spring, the

most holy perhaps

Bawan, a name derived from the

called

village

the country, near a small

in

water, which, gushing from a fissure in the limestone

rock, the base of the raised plain of alluvium inter-

vening between the town and the mountains beyond,

is

known

Spring.'

as,

or

Its

is

called par excellence,

considered due

of course

is

origin

Bawan,

fabulous,

to the act of Kashuf, who,

'

The

being

walking

about in intense enjoyment on the dry land, the

result of his great

achievement now completed, saw

an egg, the supposed mundane egg of the Hindus,

lying on the ground.

appearance he picked
disposition

broke

it

on which the pieces

Attracted by
it

in his
fell

glittering

up, but being of a brittle

hand

and from the spot

forthwith flowed the spring,

which, dedicated to Vishnu,

for ages past,

its

is

now, as

it

has been

a standing evidence of the credulity

of the mild Hindu, numbers of

whom, on account

of

its

its

divine origin, yearly visit

source to gain

The Happy

246

Valley.

forgiveness for their sins, and happiness in the next

world.

a very similar spring to the one already

It is

and

described,

like

it

the water

conveyed away

is

through a series of tanks and canals swarming with

Himalayan

who

trout, fed

and protected by the

priests,

dwell on the spot, deriving a living from the

pecuniary offerings of the pious and curious that

come within

their

to

reach,

whom

they do the

honours of the place, having an eye to the backsheesh

of

in the

this

class

manner characterizing the members

of

native

The

society.

caves

of

Bhoomjoo, places of pilgrimage, can hence be easily

visited, being distant only about a mile, and in the
mountains bounding the right side of the road that

up the Liddar Valley. There are several of

these caverns, the two largest of which are called
leads

respectively

the

'

Long

and the

Cave,'

'

Temple

Cave,' the first-named being traversable for seventy

yards, but penetrating very

much

rock, the natives believing

it

The

other

wider,

is

about twelve feet square, a

derived.

be interminable.

not nearly so long, but

and contains a very

tecture,

to

further into the

whence

its

well-built
fine

is

higher and

Hindu temple,

specimen of archi-

name, the

Temple Cave, is
From here an expedition may be made

up the Liddar Valley, which, opening

into this, the

Cave at Ambernath.
north-eastern corner of Kashmir,
to a river of the

247

and giving passage

same name, extends

for a distance

of twenty-five miles to just beyond Palgam, where,

narrowing,

it

separates into two defiles, one of which

leads into the Sind Valley, already visited, the other

bringing one by toilsome marches to the Sheesha

Nag, and the sacred cave of Umur, or Ambernath.

We did not visit this cave, the distance, and the
roughness, and sometimes even

owing

to landslips

the dangerous condition, of the road deterring us

from undertaking such a journey but as a spot

of great interest, and annually visited by thousands
;

of pilgrims,

it

may

not be out of place to give a

short description of this holy spot, and the origin

of

its

Vigne by a native of the

himself having been pre-

sanctity, as told to

that

country,

traveller

vented by weather and other causes from reaching

the place

'Umur'
Sanscrit
ties,

as

itself.

signifies

As

regards the origin of the name,

'the immortal,'

word applied to the

lords and masters,

and 'Nath'

principal

Hindu

is

divini-

chiefly to Vishnu,

and

and also to the place where

they are worshipped and supposed more particularly
to reside
the name prefixed being sometimes that
occasionally to Siva,

of the place where they are worshipped, sometimes

that of the builder of the shrine.

In this case

it

The Happy

248
is

Valley.

a place of pilgrimage sacred to

Siva,

supposed to reside within the cavern

of a block of

and the legend of

ice,

origin runs as follows

"

The

and

who

in the
its

is

form

sanctified

angel of death appeared to the divinities,

them

would destroy them. They

were much troubled at this threat, and proceeded to
the place of abode of the Lord Siva, and entreated
told

that he

Siva appeared to them with a bright

his protection.

and pleasing countenance, and showing them great

favour, inquired into their state and circumstances
with

much

The

anxiety.

the angel of death

was

divinities represented that

at

enmity with them, and

that they dreaded his power.

Upon which

Siva,

of his great mercy and kindness, bestowed upon

them the water of immortality, by which they were

freed from the persecution .of the angel of death.

Siva afterwards again went to his devotional abstractions at his abode,

by the

divinities

They were
up

their

and was again sought

but they could

for

not see him.

therefore in great distress, and lifted

hands

in prayer,

and intreated him

to

show

himself to them, whence the pilgrimage and prayer

at the cave of

Ambernath."

Hindus what Mecca

Being to the

Mohammedans,

it

is

is

to

the

annually resorted to for the

Sheesha Ndg.

ceremony which takes place

249

there,

on or about

the 28th of July of each year, before which date

crowds of pilgrims, of every rank and

every

Kashmir and

of

part

caste,

from

collect

Hindustan,

together at Islamabad, and march to the cave by

up the Liddar Valley as

stages

as

far

Palgam,

and then prosecute their journey, which now becomes rough and perilous, up the defile leading
north-east,

As

as

far

road

is

which brings them to their destination.

Palgam, distant twenty-six miles, the

fairly

easy

and entering the

but on leaving the main valley

on the

defile

the

right,

path,

though worn by the pilgrimages of ages, is rocky

and fatiguing, and rendered often dangerous by
landslips or avalanches, causing frequent fatal acci-

The

dents.
for

by

victims are, however, scarcely

their relatives, their death in the

of a pious act rendering

Some

future.

Sheesha
reached,
flows,

fifteen
'

them meet

miles

up

'

mourned

performance
for a

the

happy
the

defile

'

Nag, the glassy or leaden lake,' is

from which the incipient Liddar river

a small sheet of water about a third of a

mile in diameter, lying in a punch-bowl formed

by

the nearly perpendicular precipices of a limestone

ridge, as

much

twisted

and distorted

formation on other parts of the

hills

as the

same

rising

from

The Happy

250

Valley.

the plain of Kashmir, having most probably been

formed

at the

on the cave
the
is

same

period.

itself

is

snowy mountains

Fourteen miles further

reached, which, situated on

at

an altitude of 16,000

feet,

a desolate and weird spot, the surrounding scenery

being described by those

Titanic splendour.

The cave

is

seen

as of

it

of gypsum, about

yards long by nearly the same breadth, with

fifty

a height of about thirty

said,

and

contains,

it

is

icicles,

The ceremony

frozen springs.

the arrival of the pilgrims

feet,

and large blocks of ice in

of the rocks, which are most probably

stalactites,

the clefts

"

who have

is

that takes place

thus described

vast multitude of men,

women, and

on

*
:

children

advance towards the cave, at an hour appointed by

the attendant, the Brahmans first divesting themselves

of

all

When

birch bark.

they

clothing,

commence

excepting some pieces of

the pilgrims arrive at

its

mouth

shouting, clapping their hands, and

Show yourself to us,' is the

upon Siva.
universal and simultaneous exclamation and prayer
'

calling

of prostrate thousands.

The cave

is

much frequented

by rock -pigeons, which, affrighted by the

rush out tumultuously, and are the answer
prayer.

noise,

to the

the body of one or other of these

In
*

VIGNE, Travels in Kashmir,

vol.

ii.

Symbolism of the Dove.

resides the person of their divinity

Destroyer and the All-powerful,

is

25

and Siva, the

considered to

be present, and incarnate as the harmless dove.

If

there happens to be no pigeon in the cave at the

much

time, the pilgrims are

ticularly

bad from

and Brahmans
it

disappointed, although

could not learn that they augured anything par-

their

at

its

non-appearance.

all

events

maintenance

is

make

The

Fakirs

a good thing of

an inculcated duty, and

they grow comparatively rich by the presents they

receive during the expedition."

Regarding the origin and reason

for this cere-

"
The dove,
mony, the same author further observes
as need scarcely be remarked, has often figured as a
metaphor and as a tenement and receptacle for
:

divinity,

both

in

sacred and profane history, the

same bird having been even called upon by the

Musulmans to dispense with its natural timidity in
aid of their prophet,

and

to build

its

nest in the cave

where Mahomet took refuge upon his flight from

Mecca.
The analogy may, perhaps, have been
and although the account of the pilgrimage as detailed above be redolent with igno-

accidental;

rance, superstition,

and

priestcraft,

yet at the

same

time one cannot help

thinking of the dove of the
ark,

and of the wilderness, and of our own sacred

The Happy

252

The dove

writings.

of peace

Valley.

has always been the

emblem

the sublime and the preternatural have

always been the concomitants of the wilderness

solitude

accompanied by any extraordinary degree

of remoteness has often been a cause of sanctifi-

and the more wild and gloomy the locality,

the better has it been thought qualified to become

cation,

But surely such a

and which in all proba-

the peculiar residence of a god.

custom as
bility

here detailed,

is

must have existed

of Christ,

is

not to be looked upon

mere augury from the

to find out
his

for ages before the

coming

the light of a

flight of birds, or

an attempt

whether Siva be or not propitious, by

deigning to be present or absent as a dove

natural

habitation.

were

not, partly at least,

revelation

made

their Creator,

in its

thinking and unprejudiced

mind would rather be induced

it

in

to consider

whether

founded on some original

to the inhabitants of this earth

and

to recognise in the

by

whole account

no powerless addition to the numerous presages of

and redemption, corroborative of the

Mosaic records, which have been noticed by all
writers on the religion of the Hindus as dimly
incarnation

distinct

amongst the dark confusion and anachron-

isms of

its

own

recorded history."

CHAPTER
The Ruins

of

Pandus

Martand

XII.

Temple of the Sun

Its

Antiquity

Vigne's Description of the Architecture of the

The

Temple

Peculiarities
Effects of Earthquakes
Its Interior
Its Exterior
observed in the Architecture of old Ruins in Kashmir Vigne's

The Wardwan Valley The Springs of Kashmir The

The Bringh River Identity of River and Spring
Bernier's Description of Atchibal The Water of the Spring
The Vernag Spring Road to Vernag Shangus Dancing Girls
The Nowboog Valley The Tansan Bridge The
of Shangus
Kookar Nag The Shahabad Valley The Spring of Vernag
Source of the Jhelam The Garden of the Spring The Mogul
Emperor Jehangir Nur Mehal, the Light of the Palace Her
Parentage The Rozloo Valley The Veshau River Its Source
The Konsa Nag Cataract of Haribal Road to Shupiyan End
Opinion

Atchibal Spring

of

Concluding Remarks.

Tour

all

the interesting sights in the vicinity of

Islamabad the ruins of Martand hold the

and they are easy of access,

being situated only five miles from the
city, on the highest part of the kareewah,

first

where

it

place,

commences

mountains.

This

to rise to

old

its

Hindu

junction with the

temple,

originally

dedicated to the worship of the sun, and called

Pandu Koru by the

natives of the Valley,

is

now

The Happy

254

Valley.

only a ruin, but enough yet remains to enable one

to form a fair opinion of

early days,

when a

what

it

must have been

in

leading specimen of a gigantic

Although not able to boast

of an equality with that well-known example at
style of architecture.

or

Palmyra,

remains

the

of

the

palace

Per-

at

deserves to be ranked with them, and

sepolis, yet

it

in situation

on a natural platform at the foot of some

of the noblest mountains in the world

to either.
to

its

Nothing

antiquity,

its

is

is

far superior

known with any

certainty as

founders, or

its

original use

as the greater part of the old ruins in

built

but

Kashmir were

between the time of Asoka and the

Avante Verma, that would give us from

reiofn
o

B.C.

of

250 to

wide range of years, during which numerous temples and other edifices were erected in the

A.D. 875, a

Valley, the

same

style being apparent in all of them,

even down to the building already noticed at Payech,

the most modern of all, erected some considerable
time after the one

now under

consideration, which,

according to the best authorities, was built between

the

fifth

and sixth centuries of the Christian

era.

The natives of the country, however, attribute to it a

much greater antiquity, as its name denotes Pandu
Koru

'

signifying

of Pand, a

the house of the Pandus/ the sons

monarch of the Lunar race of ancient

Temple of Martand.

Hindu

kings, who, driven

255

from India,

in the course

of their wanderings visited Kashmir, and erected

numerous temples, notably the temple of Martand.

This kind of legend, however, applies to every old
building in the East of whose origin there exists no
reliable

information,

all

being considered by the

Hindus the work of these princes or their imIn the book before menmediate descendants.
tioned a

very good

temple and

its

descriptive

style of architecture

account
is

of

this

given, together

with the opinion of other authorities on the subject,

which

is

well worth perusal,

and

to

which

am

indebted for the following abridged account.*

At

present

Martand

all

consists

that remains of the

of

central

and

Temple of
rectangular

building, surrounded by a court or quadrangle and

rectangular colonnade facing inwards, the length of

the outer side of the wall being about ninety yards,

and that of the

The remains

front about fifty-six.

of three gateways opening into the court, the principal fronting

standing.

due east towards Islamabad, are

It is also

rectangular in

its

details,

and

enormous blocks of limestone of many

and all
length, and of proportionate solidity,

built with
feet in

still

cemented with an excellent mortar.

VIGNE'S Travels in Kashmir,

vol.

i.

p. 385.

The Happy

256

Valley.

Several of the pillars of the colonnade are

standing,

and between each are

trefoiled

still

niches

while the capitals of the larger pillars are richly

carved

and ornamented,

their

shafts,

which

are

grooved rather than fluted, being also surmounted

by an ornamented neck of beads. The faade of
the building which stands in the interior

is

abreast

of the gates of either colonnade, and one-third of

the

whole

between

it

length

of the

and the front

quadrangle

gate,

intervenes

which faces

to the

bank of stones and rubbish occupying the

place where there was originally a flight of steps
Both sides of the doorleading to the doorway.
west, a

way on

carved

the front are

in

relievos,

being

miniature representations of those in the interior

but they are so

much

injured

scarcely perceptible, excepting

by time as

when

them out with a strong shadow.

divided into two compartments
is

nine yards

in length,

and

to

be

the sun brings

The

interior

is

that at the entrance

at the western

end

is

an

inner chamber or crypt five yards long, surrounded

by blank

walls,

but open like the other to the face

semblance of a roof having long since

disappeared beneath the shocks of earthquakes and
of day,

all

the unsparing hand of Sikunder But-Shikan.

In the centre of either side of the larger anterior

Sculptures at Martand.

chamber

is

257

a window reaching to the

about eight feet

in height.

The

floor,

and

walls, thus divided

up with single figures in relief,

two of Surya, and two of Luchmi, one in each
The building was once apparently two
panel.
quarterly, are filled

stories high, and,

judging from other ruins

country, the upper part

and the whole

height

fabric

was

in the

certainly pyramidal,

must have been of considerable

for its present height, of forty feet or so,

has been diminished by earthquakes even within

the
it,

memory
some

intelligent

much

of man, and at the time Vigne visited

was assured by an
that he himself remembered it

forty years
native,

higher.

ago, he

Perhaps the only unaccountable parts

of the ruins are two side buildings, like detached

wings, sculptured with figures of the
as those inside the building

these
flying

same character

but most probably

were merely ornamental, and joined by a

buttress

the

to

upper part of the centre

building.

Details characteristic of different styles are ob-

servable in the architecture of this temple, and that

part of the subject

who mentions
great general

is

also

by the same author,

that he was struck with the
treated of

resemblance which

recorded disposition of the ark and

it

its

bore to

the

surrounding

The Happy

258

curtains, in imitation of

was

lated situation,

of

place

ages,

of

its

it

its

consequence

from

the

insu-

very earliest

architecture, or

its

of

that

like

its

and other advantages,

climate,

peculiarities,

likely to

Jerusalem

conclusions, however, arrived

probable that

is

at

Kashmir, having been, from

at were, that

which the temple

The general

built.

Valley.

Egypt,

is

some
more

have afforded a prototype than to be a

copy of any known style, while it seems indeed to

be peculiar to the Valley
for there is nothing
;

exactly like

in

it

Hindustan, or in any country to

the westward of the Indus.

One

great authority

on ancient architecture has stated that the temples

in

Kashmir,

all

of which bear a strong resemblance

manner of

as to their

construction, are decidedly

separated in style from

as

known examples

the chief points of difference

buildings

Roman

rather than

but

between these

and the Roman are of a Hindu

infers that their builders

the

all

character,

were Hindu imitators of

Roman

or Grecian imitators

of the Hindu, seeing that the forms approach or

Roman, whereas the workmanship

imitate the

of

the former character

in

Syria giving

workmen
and even

to

of

see

an
the

is

the Parthian conquests

the

Eastern

of that

country,

opportunity to
buildings

Egypt, by which new forms were

Wardwan

259

Valley.

This agrees very well with the date

suggested.

usually assigned to them, namely, between 250 B.C.

and 875

There are a great number of these

the Valley, but Martand is the principal,

A.D.

buildings in

although not the earliest example.

are

nearly similar

in

All,

however,

architectural design,

scribed above, a fact that cannot

fail

to

as de-

be noticed

by those who have inspected the curious building

at Pandritan, the edifice at Payech, the erection on
the summit of the Takt-i-Suliman, which have been

described in these pages, and which, with the addition of the ruins to

be seen

in the

and the Temple of the Sun, so

Bararmila Pass>

lately

under con-

sideration, are the chief types of native architecture

in the Valley,
all

tourists as

and should be

visited

and studied by

emblems of the former prosperity

of

a country which they could not do otherwise than

have adorned.

The Wardwan

Valley

may be

marches from Islamabad, but

except by the sportsman,

who

it

reached by four
is

rarely visited,

will there, if

he

is

meet with ibex and other game, which

may repay him in a measure for the cold and damp
climate of this rugged region, and the rough life
fortunate,

incidental to his pursuit.

It is

a long and narrow

valley of about forty miles in length, with a breadth

The Happy

260

Valley.

only on an average of a quarter of a mile, bounded

on either side by high and rugged mountains one

very lofty range separating it from the main Valley

of Kashmir.
its

length,

river of the

same name

traverses

and there are a few thinly-inhabited

villages or scattered huts, but nothing to interest

the stranger,

or

call

forth

save for the

visit,

purpose mentioned above, for which

it

is

greatly

famed.

In addition to

its

rivers

and

lakes, the country of

Kashmir has long been celebrated for its magnificent springs, some of which we have already
visited.

They

are,

however, small

with the two towards which

steps.

The

situated

some

first

and

largest

in

we now

comparison
direct our

that of Atchibal,

is

six miles to the east of Islamabad, at

the foot of a low range of

hills,

the water rising

from beneath the limestone rock that forms the

extremity of the spur.

It

gushes out

places, but the principal spring

through

a large

fissure,

makes

in
its

several

way up

with force sufficient

to

throw a stream of water some considerable height

above the

margin a fact apparently indicating a descent from the lofty mountains behind it,
level of

its

rather than the generally accepted theory that

it

is

only the reappearance of a river called the Bringh,

261

Atchibal.

which, a few miles away, after flowing for

some

distance, suddenly disappears through the

a large fissure

in its

little

bottom of

stony bed.

This theory of the identity of the river and spring

has long been credited by the natives of the Valley,
and it is most probably correct; for the direction thus
ascribed to the river

is

much

have followed on the surface

the
;

same

and

wood

stated that small pieces of

that

it

would

has been also

it

or other articles

thrown into the Bringh above the place of its disappearance have reappeared at Atchibal, a full proof
of the existence of a large subterraneous passage.

Many

years ago this spring was a favourite resort,

not only of the old kings of Kashmir, but also of

their successors,

the Great Moguls

have been a pleasant spot

in the

and

it

must

time of Bernier,

European who ever visited the Valley,

about the year 1663, and who, in his Travels in
the

first

India, a series of letters in French concerning his

journey to Kashmir,
thus

of

it

little

"
:

in

Aurungzebe's suite, writes

In returning from Send Brary I turned

out of the highway, in order to sleep at

Archiavel (Atchibal), which

is

a place of pleasure

belonging to the old kings of Kashmir, and at

present to the Great Mogul.
is

Its principal

a fountain, of which the water disperses

beauty

itself

on

The Happy

262

Valley.

around a building which is not devoid

of elegance, and flows through the gardens by a
sides

all

hundred
it

canals.

comes out

It

of the earth as

if

remounted and returned from the bottom of a

well with violence and boiling,

dance that
fountain.

may

it

Its

of

its

water

and

cots,

such abun-

admirably good, and

is

hand within

The garden

alleys,

in

rather be called a river than a

cold that to hold the

be borne.

and

is

it

is

so

could scarcely

very beautiful on account

the great quantity of fruit-trees, apri-

cherries, the quantity of jets-d'eau of all

kinds of figures, of reservoirs

full

of

fish,

of cascade very high, which in falling

and a kind

makes a great

sheet of thirty or forty paces in length, the effect

of which

is

admirable, particularly at night,

they have placed below

it

an

infinity of little lamps,

which are arranged in holes made on purpose

well, all which is of very great beauty."

A great alteration
when

this

when

in

the

has taken place since the time

was written

for although the building,

the reservoir, and the garden mentioned by Bernier,

all

of which were constructed by Shah Jehan, are

still

standing, they are in ruins, overshadowed

by

the large chenar trees that, probably planted at

the
to

same

time, have, left to themselves, continued

grow and

increase in size and beauty.

Whilst

263

Shangus.
the

work of man's hand

has, like everything else in

fallen to decay,

Kashmir,

The

mains the same.

as in days of yore

Nature's handiwork re-

magnificent stream flows on

and the waters of the

different

sources, uniting soon after leaving the garden, form

a small

river,

which, flowing peacefully on for

distance, eventually joins the

little

some

Jhelam near the

town of Islamabad.

The
some

other large spring

fifteen

miles

is

that of Vernag, distant

away from

Atchibal, the road

lying along the plains, and comparatively easy to

travel.

But there

take, as

it

Valley,

will

and a

allow of our visiting the

cold,

and soon

we

arrive at an old

colony of nautch

but

Pursuing

turn eastwards, after leaving Atchibal,

Shangus, celebrated

talent,

Kookar

and celebrated

throughout the country for their purity.

road

will

Nowboog

collection of springs called the

Nag, whose waters are very

this

we

also another which

is

who

tumble-down

village called

former days as containing a

in

famous

girls,

for their

beauty and

possess no representatives at the

present time on this spot, the family having apparently

died

locality.

out

or

emigrated

mile or so further on

village,

close to the

narrow

pass,

to
is

commencement

some other
another small
of the long,

through which the path leads to the

The Happy

264

Nowboog

Valley.

valley, a small but beautiful glen of

about

bounded by pine-clad mountains

abounding with bears and other

eight miles long,

on either
animals

agreeable,

side,

and
it

as,
is

from

its

situation, the climate is

often the resort of sportsmen

and

by the charm of its scenery,

the ground being park-like and covered with low
and swelling hills, carpeted with rich grass, and
others, attracted thither

sufficiently interspersed

with streams and patches

of forest to be rendered exceedingly picturesque,

and a

delightful spot for the lovers of Nature.

Leaving the Valley, the road, turning to the right,

brings us after seven miles or so of easy marching
to the Tansan bridge, thrown over the river Bringh,
crossing which

we

find ourselves

on the highway

from Kashmir to Kishtwar.

This bridge, near which stands on the
Musjid of Hajee Daud Sahib,

is

hillside the

a place of some

strength and strategical importance, and has been

the scene of

many

a struggle in former days, be-

tween the Kashmiris and the inhabitants of Kishtwar, being the key to the possession of the Bringh
Valley, which debouches on the plain immediately
opposite.

Numerous were

the fights at this spot

during the feuds that prevailed amongst the people

-of these

two mountainous countries before the

latter

Kookar Nag.
territory

was

the last of

265

invaded by Gulab Singh, and

finally

independent rajahs, Teg Singh, giving

himself up without fighting, it became a part of the
its

Jamoo and Kashmir

possessions.

the north-west of this bridge

is

the

Five miles to

Kookar Nag,

a beautiful spring, gushing out most copiously

in

several places from the foot of the limestone rock,

which forms the base of a long range of verdant

hills separating the 'pergunnah' of Bringh from

On

that of Shahabad.
lies

Shahabad

the

the other side of the range

valley,

which contains what was

once the town of that name, the largest at

of the province, but

mere dimensions of a
further,

we come

celebrated of

all

this

now dwindled down

village

end

to the

and some three miles

to the spring of Vernag, the

most

the numerous springs in Kashmir,

and undoubtedly the principal source of the river

Jhelam.

This famous spring is on the opposite side of the

strath from Shahabad, and close under the mounbordering this end of the Valley, a range

tains

which

is

crossed by the traveller proceeding by the

Jummoo and

Banihal route, the pass of that

name

being entered within a short distance of the fountain.

The

water, which

is

very

siderable volume, being

cold,

gushes out

at first received

in con-

into

an

266

The Happy

Valley.

octagonal stone basin, nearly forty yards wide, and

of great depth, and filled with sacred trout.
On
leaving this basin,

it flows
through the garden in
a series of canals,
passing out as a considerable

stream.

the

Shortly, joining

rolls

steadily

the

broad

Sandrahan

river,

onwards to develop further on

deep

Jhelam,

the

principal

it

into

river

of

Kashmir, which, commencing near Islamabad by

the junction of the
Arpat, Bringh, and Sandrahan
(three streams

owing their origin chiefly to the

several springs we have
visited), is navigable nearly
from its beginning, and,
a channel suffipossessing

cient for

carrying off the rain

and snow from the

mountains that surround the

Valley, is one of its
principal beauties, and no less important a factor in
the prosperity of the
country which
adorns.

Around
and

so materially

the spring are the ruins of an old garden

by the Emlovely consort, on which

palace, built about the year 1619,

peror Jehangir, and his

account only are

they interesting.
this place

the

it

was the

favourite spot

It is stated that

above

all

others in

country with that monarch, who, taken

ill

at

Baramgalla on his road to Kashmir, expressed a

wish to be transported thither that he might die
beside the spring he loved so well, and had so

much

Jehangir and
adorned

Nur

Mahal.

267

the magnificent basin that receives the

water being also mainly formed under his direction.

However, he was not

to see

it

again; for his decease

took place before his orders could be obeyed, and

body was removed

ficent mausoleum still

his

memory by

to Lahore,

when

a magni-

erected

stands,

in

loving

the dear companion of his travels and

residence in the

Happy

Valley, during the thirteen

he paid to that favoured portion of the

dominions that acknowledged him as master.
visits

Of

all

the Great Moguls, the

perhaps the most renowned

equally so

is

that of his wife

name
in

of Jehangir

and

the Valley,

Nur Mahal,

due the designs of the numerous

fountains, and gardens erected during the
is

to

is

whom

buildings,
lifetime of

her august consort, the ruined remains of which

have been noticed and described

at various parts of

our tour.

The Kashmirians

name, and

even claim her as a countrywoman,

asserting that she

still

reverence her

was a native of the

Valley, but

cannot adduce any facts in support of this assertion,

or disapprove the

found

in

more authentic

story of her birth

Indian history, which proves her to be

the daughter of the Persian adventurer Itmad-ood-

Dowlah, whose tomb

at

esting sights of that city.

Agra

is

one of the

inter-

The Happy

268

Eight miles from Vernag

Valley.
is

the pretty

little

valley

of Rozloo, oval in shape and three miles long by

two broad.

It

is

fertile

spot,

bounded on the

south by the grassy slopes of the Pir Panjal, con-

and much frequented by

search of the picturesque.
As we have

taining several villages,

visitors in

now

pretty

well

exhausted

interest in this portion of

the

chief

Kashmir, we

places

may

of

return

to the capital

by way of Islamabad, or continue

along the southern side of the Valley, and on to
Shupiyan, visiting en route the cataract at the source
of the Veshau, which brings us to the termination
of the entire tour of the province, and to the town

where we halted on our road

The town
our

by the

and where we made our entrance

Pir Panjal route,

into the country

to Srinagar,

we had come

of Shupiyan

last halting-place,

is

to visit.

some

thirty miles

from

The

road,

the Rozloo Valley.

skirting the foot of the hills for the

first

part of

the way, and then opening into the plains, passes

Ban Doosar and Nohan, the two

usual resting-places for the night on this march of

by the

villages of

From

twenty miles.
opens into a
along the

fine

left

the latter place, the road soon

grassy plain, and then continues

bank of the

river Veshau,

mouth of the gorge through which

it

to the

issues

from

Konsa Ndg.
This

mountains.

the

fine

269
the largest

river,

in

Kashmir, the Jhelam alone excepted, rises from the

Konsa Ndg, a far-famed lake, a noble mountain tarn,

on the very top of the Pir Panjal, at an

elevation of between twelve and thirteen thousand

situated

The

feet.

lake

itself,

of other travellers, for

march

to the

which

it is

did not attempt the arduous

summit of the mountain ridge upon

situated, is nearly

a breadth of
of

according to the observations

five

hundred

some considerable

a mile

to six

depth.

in length,

with

hundred yards, and

At

the eastern end,

the banks slope gently downwards to the water's

edge, but on the northern and southern sides, the

bare rock rises very abruptly from the water to a

height of 1,400

feet,

and bare scarped

with remarkably pointed peaks

sides.

The

fresh

and unworn

appearance of the eastern side, forbids the idea that

this extraordinary place has ever been the crater of
a volcano, which the 'more irregular and heaped-up
appearance of the western bank might otherwise

have tended

to encourage.

From

these facts

it

has

been inferred that the cavity was formed by the

sinking of the lower, and of the tabular rocks on
the eastern bank, and that the northern bank or

dam

remains more rounded

in

consequence of

its

not having been sufficiently a sharer in the force

The Happy

270

Valley.

which has upraised the other, the valley of the lake

having been most probably formed by the forcible
separation of the mountain-top.

Leaving the lake

through an irregular rocky opening

side,

the water of the river Veshau

and picturesque channel, which

Here

in the bare rock.

over which

The

it

it

in its

falls into

finest cataract

has worn for

itself

there are several ledges,

in

is

Haribal, undoubtedly the

Kashmir, which can be viewed

by ascending a steep path on the

perfectly

a deep

dashes, forming cataracts or waterfalls.

largest of these

the road at the entrance of the gorge.

quarter of a mile from where

it

left

of

This leads

to a lofty rock overhanging the torrent,

plains.

western

about a

debouches into the

Pursuing a south-easterly direction, from a

wide-spreading and fordable stream

it

becomes a

deep unfordable river of considerable width, some

little distance from its
junction with the Jhelam,
five miles

below the town of Bijhehara.

After viewing the

with the Hindus,

destination

and

fall,

we

a place of peculiar sanctity

continue our march to our

passing through a very pretty

village called Sedau, about a mile

from the Veshau

gorge, an easy walk of another five miles brings

us to Shupiyan, the termination of the march, and

also of our tour.

Conclusion.

27

Hence one can proceed back

Ramoo and

if

the return journey to India

made by the Marri

totally

by

Chrar, on the road already described,

particularly

is

to the capital

selected, for

if

the Imperial road

which Shupiyan forms a good

point, supplies of

be

to

This proceeding, however,

route.

unnecessary

is

is

be

to

starting-

kinds being usually abundant.

all

But the choice of roads may be safely left to the

discretion of the traveller, and I need not say more.

My

task

indicating

is

finished,

the roads

and
to

my

the manners and customs of

I

am

fulfilled

of

Kashmir, describing the

chief places of interest in the

as

promise

its

Happy

Valley,

inhabitants

and

as far

able in the scope of the present volume.

Should any remarks or information conveyed here

have proved of interest to those who peruse these
pages, or should they in the future serve as
little

guide and assistance to intending travellers in

the romantic Vale,

shall

deem myself amply

paid by the knowledge that

some

service,

deal

leniently

find.

some

and can only

with

my work has been

beg of my readers

re-

of
to

any shortcomings they may

APPENDIX
ROUTE No.

I.

i.

The Gujerdt and Pir Panjdl Route.

d
fc

274

The Happy

Valley.

The Gujerdt and Pir Panjdl Route

6
fc

(continued).

Appendix

I.

The Gujerdt and Pir Panjdl Route

6
fc

275
(continued).

The Happy

276

Valley.

ROUTE No.

2.

The Rdwal Pindi and Marri Route.

NAME.

RaVal Pindi

to

Barakao

Tret

REMARKS.

DISTANCE.

13
12

Marri

Daywal

10

miles

The

three stages are usually

first

accomplished in one journey,

stage-cart or dhooly-

either

by

dak.

Road good

all

the way.

Easy march down-hill all the way.

Good bungalow, and supplies
abundant.

Road

Kohala.

for first four miles descend-

ing to river Jhelam, along the

right

bank of which the

mainder

Good

leads.

Bungalow close

Road

Chatar Kalas

re-

dak.

to river.

crosses river

by suspensionand then skirts it all

bridge,

the way; a

path, safe to

fair

Small but good bunga-

ride.

low.

Rara

12

Road

steep in places; the last

part of
river.

march

it

descends to

Very good bungalow;

supplies plentiful.

Tinali

12

A beautiful march

through lovely
road precipitous in
places, but rideable nearly all
the way.
Good bungalow on
scenery;

a level with the

river.

Appendix
The
6
55

I.

R&wal Pindi and Marri Route

277
(continued).

2 78

The Happy

Valley.

The Rdwal Pindi and Marri Route

fc

(continued).

Appendix
ROUTE No.
The
This

is

Gi'ijerdt

Thanna Mundi

and from

by snow. From
the same as found on

latter is closed

the route

is

Ooree, where

this place to

route, is six marches, as follows

fe

Route.

an alternative route to that over the Pir Panjal Pass,

Gujerdt to
i

279

3.

and Pi'mch

and must be taken when the

No.

I.

it

joins the Marri

280

The Happy

Valley.

The Gujerdt and Punch Route

NAME.

(continued).

DISTANCE.

REMARKS.

10 miles

Path runs along side of mountain,

to

Hydrabad
Ooree

and

is

pretty rough at

fine waterfall to

the continuation of the journey

shown on Route No.

Bungalow good.

way.

From Ooree

first.

be seen on the

is

the same as

2.

ROUTE No.

4.

The Rdwal Pindi and Abbottabad Route.

NAME.

DISTANCE.

REMARKS.

40 miles

Three marches usually performed

in one day by stage-cart or

Rawal Pindi toMarri

dhooly-dak, as shown on No.

i

Khaira Galli

Route.

From Marri
road

Doonga Galli

lies

tains,

and

to

Abbottabad the

through the mounis a good one, the

journey being accomplished in

Bara Galli

one day by dhooly-dak or

riding

Abbottabad

14

a halt being made,

required, at

if

any of the inter-

Abbottabad
mediate stages.
is a large station, with a good
bungalow and abundant supplies.

Ma'nsera

Easy march over a good road

along the plains.
galow.

Good bun-

Appendix

281

I.

The Rdwal Pindi and Abbottabad Route (continued).

NAME.

Mansera

REMARKS.

DISTANCE.

to-

Ghari

19 miles

long but easy march

the

half through

the

first

plains,

the

latter half through the

tains

Mozufferabad

Road

a good road

all

moun-

the way.

crosses a range of hills

ascends

to

Doobballi

and
then

the Kishenganga river;

pass

then passes along bed of

tor-

rent through a narrow gorge

which opens into the valley of

the Kishenganga. Supplies are
abundant, as it is a large town.

Haitian

Long, rough march along the

right bank of the Jhelam, Which

17

joined by the Kishenganga

about a mile from Mozufferais

Fan: bungalow.

bad.

Kanda

Easy march.

1 1

Several ups

downs, as road
lating.

Kathai

Shahdera

is

and

very undu-

Fair bungalow.

Rough march, very steep in places.

12

..12

rough march ; several ravines

Good
have to be crossed.
bungalow.

Gingle

...

An

14

easy march, the road being

smooth and

level

nearly

all

the way.

Baramula

18

.,

A long

but easy and very pretty

march.

Baramula has been described on Route No.

be found the continuation of

this

2,

road to Srinagar.

where also

will

APPENDIX

II.

TREATY OF AMRITSAR.
Treaty between the British Government on the one part, and
MAHARAJAH GOLAB SINGH, of Jummoo, on the other,
concluded on

the

part of the British Government by

FREDERICK CURRIE, ESQ., and BREVET-MAJOR HENRY

MONTGOMERY LAWRENCE, acting'under the orders of the
RIGHT HONOURABLE SIR HENRY HARDINGE, G.C.B.,
one of Her Britannic Majesty's Honourable Privy Council,
Governor-General, appointed by the Honourable Company

and

to direct

control all their affairs in the

and by MAHARAJAH GOLAB SINGH

ARTICLE

The

i.

British

Government

East

Indies,

in person.
transfers

and makes

over for ever, in independent possession to Maharajah Golab

Singh,

and the

heirs

male of

his body, all the hilly or

mountainous

dependencies, situated on the eastward of the

River Indus and westward of the River Ravee, including Chumba

country with

its

and excluding Lahoul, being part of the territory ceded to the

British Government by the Lahore State, according to the provisions of Article 4 of the Treaty of Lahore, dated gth March, 1846.

ARTICLE

2.

The

eastern boundary of the tract, transferred

by

the foregoing article to Maharajah Golab Singh, shall be laid

down by Commissioners appointed by the British Government

and Maharajah Golab Singh respectively for that purpose, and
shall be denned in a separate engagement after survey.

Appendix
ARTICLE

by
Golab Singh

the provisions of the foregoing articles, Maharajah

pay to the British Government the sum of

of rupees (Nanukshahee), fifty lacs to be paid

will

seventy-five lacs

on

ratification of this treaty,

ist

283

In consideration of the transfer made to him and

3.

his heirs

II.

and

twenty-five lacs

on or before the

October of the current year, A.D. 1846.

ARTICLE

4.

The

limits of the territories of

Maharajah Golab

Singh shall not be at any time changed without the concurrence

of the British Government

ARTICLE

5.

Maharajah Golab Singh will refer to the arbitraGovernment any disputes or questions that

tion of the British

may

arise

between himself and the government of Lahore, or

any other neighbouring state, and will abide by the decision of

the British Government.

ARTICLE

6.

Maharajah Golab Singh engages for himself and

whole of his military force, the British

heirs to join, with the

troops

when employed

within the

hills,

or in the

territories

adjoining his possessions.

ARTICLE

7.

Maharajah Golab Singh engages never to take or

retain in his service

any

British subjects,

nor the subjects of any

European or American State, without the consent of the British

Government.

ARTICLE
regard

to

8.

Articles 5, 6,
British

Maharajah Golab Singh engages

to respect, in

the

provisions of

the territory transferred to him,

and

.7,

of the separate engagement between the

Government and the Lahore Durbar, dated

ith March,

1846.

ARTICLE

9.

The

British

Government

Maharajah Golab Singh in protecting

ternal enemies.

his

will

give

its

territories

aid

to

from ex-

The Happy

284
ARTICLE

10.

Maharajah

Valley.

Golab

Singh

supremacy of the British Government, and

acknowledges the
will, in token of

such supremacy, present annually to the British Government

one horse, twelve perfect shawl-goats, of approved breed

male and six female), and three pairs of Kashmir shawls.
This

treaty, consisting of ten articles,

by Frederick

Currie, Esq.,

(six

has been this day settled

and Brevet- Major Henry Montgomery

Lawrence, acting under the directions of the Right Honourable

Sir

Henry Hardinge,

G.C.B.,

Governor-General, on the part of

Government, and by Maharajah Golab Singh in

the said treaty has been this day ratified by the
and
person;
seal of the Right Honourable Sir Henry Hardinge, G.C.B.,
the

British

Governor-General.

Done at Amritsar this i6th day of March, in the year of our

Lord 1846, corresponding with the iyth day of Rubbee-ool-awul,
1762, Hijree.

APPENDIX
Rules for the Guidance of
visiting the

SINGH,
1.

the

THERE

Kashmir

Officers

III.

and

other

Travellers

Dominions of His HIGHNESS RUNBEER

Maharajah of Jummoo and Kashmir.

are four authorized routes for European visitors to

of which are noticed in this work].

[all

The

special

Punjab Goverment must be obtained by

permission
travellers proposing to proceed from Simla to Kashmir across
the hills. All other roads are positively forbidden ; and in respect
of the

to the direct road

from

Jummoo

(the Bunnihal route), the pro-

been ordered by the Supreme Government at the

special request of His Highness the Maharajah. The road branching from Rajaori by Aknoor, which is used by the Maharajah's

hibition has

family and troops,

2.

Every

is

also expressly prohibited.

officer or traveller

engage before proceeding a

for the

3.

conveyance of

visit Kashmir should

number of ponies or mules

about to

sufficient

his baggage.

CARRIAGE AND COOLIES.

Coolies employed in carrying

be settled with daily, as in

.are to

baggage, or for other purposes,

our own provinces, and their loads should not exceed twenty-five
seers. Taboos, or mules, should not carry more than two maunds
in the

hills.

4. It is necessary to bear in mind that coolies and carriages are

not available on the spot, but they have usually to be collected

from distant

villages.

Travellers

on reaching a stage should

The Happy

286

Valley.

therefore send forward to the next a notice of their requisitions,

and must not expect

intimation

is

to

be supplied

at

a moment's warning.

This

especially necessary in the case of officers hurrying

back to save

their leave,

and sometimes making double

stages.

In this case double hire must invariably be paid.

5.

In returning from Kashmir, coolies or carriages should not

be taken on beyond the Maharajah's

inconvenience to other travellers.
6.

frontier, as

ENCAMPING-PLACES AND SUPPLIES.

at the fixed stages

may not be

causes

Officers should

much

encamp

and encamping -grounds, otherwise supplies

forthcoming.

inside villages,

it

They should avoid

entering or pitching

where quarrels may occur between

their servants

and the public of the country.

7.

and

All arrangements for supplies, coolies, or baggage animals,

carriage should be
8.

made through
but payment for supplies, coolies, and

references to the local authorities, should be

all

the proper attendants

made by

No interference is

travellers themselves in their presence.

to be offered to Kardars (revenue officers),

Thanadars, or Kotwals (police officers), or other servants or subjects of

His Highness the Maharajah; and no

made on them
be made at the

except in real emergencies.

rates

calls are to

be

All payments are to

demanded, which, if exorbitant, can be

officer on duty at Srinagar.

after-

wards reported to the

9.

book

will

be presented

at

each stage, in which every

traveller is required to write legibly his

name, rank,

station,

and

the date of his arrival.

10.

SHOOTING EXCURSIONS.

When

going out on shooting

excursions visitors are to take carriage and supplies with them,

and not

to persist in

not procurable.

demanding them

They

at places

where they are

are not to press into their service the

people of the country as beaters for game.

Appendix III.

287

REFERENCES IN CASES OF DIFFICULTIES OR DISPUTES.

11.

In any case of dispute

officers

should avoid putting themselves in

direct collision with the authorities, soldiers, servants, or subjects

of the Maharajah.
They are also warned not to place entire

confidence in the statements of their servants,

their

own

who have

often

objects to serve.

Should they have reason to consider that they or their

followers have been ill-treated or affronted, they are strictly
12.

prohibited from taking the law into their own hands, or punishing
the offending parties ; but they are to make known their complaint
to the authorities

on the

spot,

and immediately

to report the

matter to the officer on deputation at Srinagar.

13.

All such cases which

preferred at

once to the

may

officer

occur at the capital are to be

on deputation, who

is

there for

Officers are not themselves

the purpose of maintaining order.
to repair to the durbar of the Maharajah, or the courts of his

communicate

delegates, or to

14.

directly with them.

Officers
OBSERVANCE OF LOCAL LAWS AND CUSTOMS.
remember that they are visitors in the remote

are enjoined to

dominions of an independent sovereign, where they one and

all

If on any occasion
represent the character of their country.
contact
in
with the Maharajah,
be
servants
brought
they or their

any of his agents, they must treat them

with respect and courtesy, and be guided by and conform to the
local laws and usages.

his sons, relatives, or

15. Officers are

not allowed to take away with them, either in

camps, any subjects of the Maharajah

without obtaining permission and a passport from the authorities.
their service or with their

1 6.

quit

They

are strictly required to settle

Kashmir, and

to

be responsible

are similarly discharged.

all

accounts before they

that the debts of their servants

The Happy

288

Valley.

ALL PRESENTS TO BE REFUSED.

To
scription must be rigidly refused.

Presents of every de-

17.

take

any 'russud' or

supplies without payment is positively prohibited, except on the

first or last days of a visitor's stay at Kashmir, when it may
'

happen that russud

1 8.

'

sent expressly

is

by the Maharajah.

Instances having been

brought to notice of European

Kashmir having permitted the goods of native merbe mixed up with their own, with the object of evading

visitors to

chants to

by the Kashmir Govern-

the customs' duties leviable thereupon

ment, it is hereby pointed out that such conduct will involve

of persons in the civil or military
legal penalties ; and in the case
service of the

19.

Queen

will

The Maharajah

be reported to the Supreme Government

occasionally invites European visitors to

entertainments, at which, if the invitation

be accepted, they should

appear in undress uniform or evening costume.

20.

to the

be the duty of the officer on special duty to report

Punjab Government any officer or traveller infringing any

It will

of these rules.
21.

Should any

decorum

officer

be

guilty of

any aggravated breach of

or propriety, or of violating the local laws and usages of

the country, or other grave misconduct, the

duty at Srinagar

is

empowered

to call

civil officer

upon such

forthwith the territories of the Maharajah.

on

special

officer to quit

Such requisition on

the part of the civil officer must be promptly complied with.

appeal from the order of expulsion will lie, in the case of a
offence, to a court of three experienced officers,
officer is

empowered

to

summon

for hearing

the decision of these officers will be

second offence, there

will

final.

whom

An
first

the civil

such appeals, and

In the case of a

be no appeal against the order of the

civil officer.

T. H.

THORNTON,

Secretary to Government, Punjab.

APPENDIX

IV.

Local Rules for the g^ndance of Visitors in Kashmir,

published under the sanction of the Ptmjab Government.
1.

VISITORS wishing to

the Fort and Palace are required

visit

to give notice of their intention

deputed to attend
2.

on European

on the previous day

Visitors about to proceed into the interior,

be supplied with

to the Babii

visitors.

carriage, are requested to

and wishing

to

communicate with the

Babu" at least thirty hours before the time fixed for their departure.
Failing this notice, the Babii cannot be responsible for the supply

of carriage in proper time.

3.

Cows and

bullocks are under no circumstances to be slain

in the territories of

4.

His Highness the Maharajah.

Visitors are not permitted to take

Lake;

viz.,

the

up

their

abode

in

the

Khan

Bagh, or in the gardens on the Dal

Nishat and the Shalimar Gardens, and the

town, in the Dilawar

Chashma Shahi. The Nasim Bagh

The fixed camping-places in Srinagar

is

available* for camping.

are as follows

the

Ram

Munshi, Munshi, Hari Singh, and Chenar Baghs.

5.

Servants of visitors found in the city after dark, and any

servant found without a light after the evening gun has fired, will

be

liable to

6.

be apprehended by the

police.

Servants of visitors resorting to other places than the fixed

latrines will

be

liable to

punishment.

The Happy

290
7.

Grass-cutters are prohibited from cutting grass in, or in the

neighbourhood
8.

Valley.

of,

the gardens occupied by European visitors.

moored on the

All boats are to be

bank of the

river,

on the

right

closed no attempt should be

made

and no boatmen are allowed

to

remain

left

at night

bank.
9.

to

When

the Dal gate

remove the

is

barrier, or to

lift

boats over the

bund

to or from

the lake.
10. Visitors are

not permitted to shoot in the tract of country

extending along the lake from the Takt-i-Suliman

which is a preserve of

Doputta
Kukaiwalla

to the Shalimar gardens,

Machipura
Danna Chikar

His Highness the Maharajah ; shooting on the

which are private pro-

Q ori

tracts marginally noted,

Bunyar

perty,

Visitors

11.

are

is

also prohibited.

prohibited

from

the

shooting

heron

in

Kashmir.
12.

Fishing

Martand, Vemag,

Anat Nag. Devi.

,,

Khirpowam
13.

is

prohibited at the

first

marginally

and

noted,

third bridges in

Snnagar.

Houses have been

for the

places

as a i so between the
~

built

accommodation of

by His Highness the Maharajah

visitors

those in the

Munshi Bagh

use of married people, and those in the

being
Hari Singh Bagh for bachelors.
With the exception of the
houses reserved by His Highness for his private guests, and
set aside for the

those reserved for the Civil Surgeon, dispensary, and library,

all

the houses are available for visitors, and are allotted by the Babu.

Married

visitors are allowed to leave the houses occupied

a term of seven days without being required permanently to vacate the same. After the expiration of that period,
the Babu is empowered to make over the premises to another

14.

by them

for

visitor requiring

house accommodation

any property

left

by the

Appendix IV.

291

former occupant being liable to removal at the owner's risk.

Bachelors are allowed to leave their houses for a period of three

days subject to the same conditions.

15.

and

conform

Visitors are required to

strictly

with

all local

laws

usages.

1 6.

In

all

matters

when they may

on the occurrence of

require redress,

should refer as soon as practicable to the

17. Visitors are particularly

servants
for sale

and

especially

robberies, visitors are informed that they

officer

on Special Duty.

requested to be careful that their

do not import into, or export from, the Valley articles

on which duty is liable. The baggage of visitors is not

examined by the Maharajah's Customs

this courtesy

it

is

that

officials,

and

in return for

any evasion of the Customs

expected
Regulations will be discountenanced.

W. HENDERSON,
Officer

on Special Duty, Kashmir.

APPENDIX

V.

TARIFF OF BOAT HIRE.

THE

per mensem.

doongah, with crew, is fifteen Government rupees

The crew should consist of at least four persons ;

women, and

children over twelve years of age, to be considered

hire of a

as able-bodied

members of a

crew.

The hire of a shikara is determined by the number of

who are paid at the rate of three Government rupees

crew,

mensem, and

eight annas

When

for the boat.

the

per

boats are taken

out of Srinagar, boatmen are entitled to rassad at the rate of

half an anna per man per diem.

TARIFF OF DOONGAH-HIRE BY DISTANCE.

r.

From Baramula

to Srinagar, per
Srinagar to Buramula

to Srinagar

Srinagar to Awantipur

Srinagar to Manasbal, for the trip

Srinagar to Gdnderbal

Srinagar to Awatkula

When

boats are ordered from Srinagar to meet a visitor at any

place, half hire of the boat from Srinagar

to the fare to the place

a boat

is

p.

Srinagar to Isldmdbad

Isldmdbad

a.

.080
.060
.080
.06.0
.060
.100
..120
.300

boatman

whence the

is

payable in addition

visitor is proceeding.

not used on the date for which

it is

When

ordered, eight annas

per diem are payable for detention.

W. HENDERSON,
Officer

on Special Duty, Kashmir.

APPENDIX

VI.

KASHMIR POSTAL RULES.

PUNJAB GAZETTE, No.

673,

GENERAL DEPARTMENT, i6TH MARCH,

1867.

The following arrangements for Postal communication with

Kashmir during the ensuing season, Jiave been made in

communication with the Kashmir Government and the
Postmaster-General of the Punjab.
1.

ALL

forwarded
2.

letters for Srinagar

vifr

At Marri the

made over

letters will

The bag

will

on duty

civil officer

be opened, and the

attached to the office of the

4.

be placed

in

will

be

a sealed bag, and

to an official of the Maharajah of Kashmir,

convey the bag to the

3.

and the Valley of Kashmir

Marri.

who

will

at Srinagar.

letters sorted,

by an

official

civil officer.

All letters for visitors at Srinagar and their followers will be

distributed
civil officer.

Maharajah

through the agency placed at the disposal of the

Other letters will be made over to the diwan of the
at Srinagar for distribution.

In addition to the English postage, a fee, equal to half the

English postage, will be levied on all letters delivered at Srinagar.
5.

6.

post-office will

civil officer, for

be opened

at or near the residence of the

the convenience of visitors to

Kashmir and

their

The Happy

294
followers

and

Valley.
be despatched in

letters for British territory will

a sealed bag to Marri, and

made

over to the postal authorities at

that place.

7.

All covers intended for despatch from Srinagar to British

territory

by the above dak, which

for

convenience

will

be desig-

nated the resident's dak, should be marked 'per resident's dak,'

in English, and signed at the lower left-hand corner by the sender ;
they must further bear, in addition to the English postage, a
Kashmir postage-stamp, of half the value of the English stamp
required, otherwise they will be

made

returned to the sender,

or otherwise disposed of accord-

ing to the rules of the

if

over to the diwan to be

known,
Kashmir post-office.

T. H.

By

order,

THORNTON,

Secretary to Government, Punjab.

INDEX.
Abbotabad Route to Kashmir, 1 7.

Abu

Fazl in Kashmir,

Abhimanyu,
Aditak

The,

Hills,

Baradarri, The, 118.

34.

of,

Bargaining in Kashmir, 151.

Barking Deer, The, 214.
Barra Kountra, 219.
Batal Caste, Descendants of the

192.

35, 64, 80, 105.

Aliabad, 46.
Ali Musjid, The, 133.

Ambernath, Cave
grimage to, 249.
Amritsar, Treaty

Amur

Gurgh,

Anat Nag,

52.

Barasing, The, 213.

12.

Aha-Thang, Peak

Bangla, The, no.

Bdramula,

5.

75, 130, 236.

Afghanistan,

Akbar,

of,

Aboriginal Inhabitants, 104.

247

Pil-

Bawan,

245.

Bazaars, 134.
282.

of, 86,

34.

244.

Antiquity of Kashmir, 4.
Architecture in Kashmir, 258.
Army of Kashmir, 119.

Bears, 207, 209.

Beauty of Kashmir,

Bhimber, 33.
Bhoomjoo, Caves

of,

Arts and Manufactures, 141.

Bijbehara, 242.

Aryans, The,

Birds, 214.
Birds of Prey, 215.

Asoka, 60,

5, 97, 128,

239.

75, 128, 235, 254.

2.

Beauty of Kashmiri Women,

Bernier, on Atchibal, 261.

98.

246.

Boats and Boatmen, 103,109,292.

Boundaries of Kashmir, 10.

Atchibal, 260.

Avantipore, 241.

Avante Verma, 241, 254.

Ayin-i-Akbari, 14, 143.

Brahman Caste, 20.

Brahmanism introduced by Ab-

Babamirishi, 219.

Bridges, 43, 93.

himanyu,

Baba Pyoomden,

232.

Baber's Memoirs, 7.
Bad Qualities of the Kashmiris,
ICO.

Baht, The,

Bringh Valley, 264.

Buddha, Tooth of, 235.
Buddhism, Introduction

Budmarg,

Badshah Bagh, The, 192.

Bagh-i-Dilawur Khan, 124.
1

130.

Bulbul, 215.

Bulbul Lankar, The,

10.

Bandipoor, 197.

of, 128.

155.

Canals, 92, 121, 187.

132.

The Happy

296

Drew's

Caste, 101.

Caves

Valley.

Bhoomjoo,246 Amber;

nath, 247.

Northern Barrier of

India, 18.

Drogjun, 59, 147, 153.

Chakk Rulers

of Kashmir, 79
their Descendants, 102, 228.

Eagles, 216.

Earthquakes, 67.
Eedgah, The, 133.

Chakoti, 51.

Changas, 37.
Chatar Kalas, 49.
.

Embankment

Chibhalis, 21.

or

Chikore,

of the

Jhelam

at

Srinagar, 117.

Himalayan Part-

Encamping ground

at Srinagar,

55-

ridge, 215.

Chimneys, Absence

of, in

Kash-

mir, 204.

Entomology, 228.
European Officials

in

Kashmir,

57-

Cholera in Kashmir, 83.

Cider and Wine, 138.

Fakir digging his own Grave, 194.

Climate, in.

Famines,

Coins and Coining, 125.

Commerce,

152.

Cornish People, Asiatic Origin

of the, 239.

135.

Fatalism, 136.
Feast of Roses, The, 157.

Fish and Fishing in Kashmir,

49, 50, 115.

Costume, 105.
Cotton Cultivation,

Fishermen, 115.
138.

Courtesy of the Maharajah, 57.

Crows, 216.
Cunningham on the Former
Lacustrine Condition of Kashmir, 68.

Fleas, Plague

of, 187.

Floating Gardens, 155.

Floods, 83.
Flora, The, 227.

Food, 135.
Foxes, 212.
Fruit and Vegetables, 137.

Dal, or City Lake, 152.

Dancing

Girls, 104, 263.

Dandi, The, 30.

Danger of Crossing Flooded

Rivers, 38.
Definition of Kashmir, 8.
Dhole, or Wild Dog, 212.

Dogras,

Ghari, 51.
Gipsies, Probable Origin

of,

104,

131-

Deer, 213.

Dhooly Dak,

Ganderbal, 180.

48.

19.

Domestic Animals, 140.

Doongah, The, no.
Dove, wide-spread Symbolism
of the, 251.

Goat of Kashmir, 144.

Golab Singh, 11, 40,

Tomb

of,

86,

115;

172.

Gujerat, 31.

Gujerat and Pir Panjal Route

to Kashmir, 17; Itinerary of,
274.

Gujerat and Poonch Route, 17;

Itinerary of, 279.

Index.
Gulmarg, 218; Description, 220
meaningofName,22i; Health

Resort, 22 1

Life at, 222;

View

from, 223.
Guluwans, or Horsekeepers, 102,
228.

Jaloka, 60, 75, 130.

Jamoo,

10.

Jehangir, 81

Death

of, 266.

Jewellery, Manufacture

Jhelam River,

of, 149.

10, 64, 73, 92, 145,

200, 266.

Gungabal, Sacred Lake

Habba

of, 184.

Kadal, The, 122.

Hajan, 197.
Hair of the Prophet's Beard,
Hair,

297

Mode

Jumma

Musjid, The, 125.

Kaman

Goshi

Hills,

The,

36.

Kangri, The, 204.

1

5 7.

Kareewahs,

67.

Kash and Kush,

of Dressing, 106.

6.

Hanjis, or Boatmen, 103.

Kashgarri Invasion of Kashmir,

Haramuk, Peak of, 63, 184.

Hares not found in Kashmir, 21 6.

Kashmir adapted

of Jamoo,

its

Relic,

Hindu Servants,

225.

Kashuf,

70.

Khagendra, first Monarch of

Kashmir, 75.
Khakar, or Barking Deer,' 214.
Killan Marg, 228.
'

Kohdla, 49.

Hirpur, 46.
History of Kashmir, 73.

Kookar Nag, 263, 265.

Konsa Nag, 269.
Kush and Kash, 6.

Cultivation, 139.

Horsekeepers, 228.
Houses in Kashmir, 95.

Kut-i-Kul Canal, 121.

Hungul, The, 213.

Hyaenas, 212.
Hydaspes, The,

of

the, 97.

Vestiges, 127.

Latioo, 240.

Lakes, 152, 184, 186, 191, 197.

10.

LallaRookh,2,6?H

152, 158, 161,

169.

Ibex, 214.
to Kashmir, 31.

Importance of Kashmir in regard

to British Rule in India, 12.
Ince's, Dr., Handbook quoted,

Islamabad, 243.
Jackals, 212.

formerly

Characteristics

Kashmiris,

57.

2.

Himalayan Blackbird, 215.

Himalayan Trout, 116.
Hindu Temples, Rarity of their

Road

86;

Lake, 66.

Himalayas, The,

Imperial

European

Hatti, 51.
Hawks, 216.

Hop

for

transferred
Colonization, 85
by England to the Maharajah

Haribal Cataract, 270.

Harri Parbat, The, 172.

Hazratbal and

79-

5.

Lalpoor, 202.

Lanka, The, 198.

Language and Literature, 107.

Legend of the Drying-up of the
Kashmir Lake, 70 of Man;

asbal Lake, 194; of Siva at

Ambernath,

248.

TJie

298

Happy

Valley.

Leopards, 211.
Liddar Valley, 246.

New Musjid, The, 126.

Nila Parana, The, 108.

Lolab, The, 202.

Ningil River, 219.

Lotus, The, 154.

Nishat Bagh, 160.

Noor Bagh,

133.

Maharaj-ke-Mandir, The, 118.

Maharajah of Jamoo and Kash-

Nowboog Valley, 263.

Nur Mahal, 81, 126, 160,

mir, II, 88.

Mahmud of Ghazni, 76.

Ooree, 52.

Mahseer, The, 50.

Manasbal Lake, 191.

Organization

Mar

Outer

Canal, 121.

Hills,

The,
of

267.

18.

Kashmir

the

State, 89.

Markhor, The, 214.

255.

Paharis, 23.
Palace of the Maharajah, 113.

149.

Pampoor,

Marri, 48.

Temple at,
Metal- work and Jewellery,
Martand, 252

Middle Mountains, Region of

the, 21.

240.

at,

236;

236.

Mineral Springs, 240, 245.

Mirza Hyder, 80.

Mohammedan Kings

of

Papier Ma.che' Manufacture, 150.

Kash-

mir, 77.

Partridges, 215; Royal, ibid.

Passes, Principal, into Kashmir,
15-

Mohammedanism,
Kashmir,

Introduction

Pathan Governors,

82.

Pattan, 233.

130.

Mogul Conquest of Kashmir, 80.

Monkeys not found in Kashmir,
216.

Payech, Temple
Pheasants, 215.
Physical

Mulberry Trees, 204.

Mundane Egg, 245.

at, 241.

History of

Valley, 66.
Pir Panjl, 9

Mosquitos, 189.

Musk

Temple

City destroyed by Abhimanyu,

Mines and Minerals,

of, into

236.

Pandritan, 235

Kashmir

Pass, 45

Pir at

Sunset, 193.

Deer, 213.

Plovers, 215.
Polo, 173.

Nadir Shah, 81.

Naga, or Snake Worship, 128.
Nagas, The, 236.
Name of Kashmir, Origin of
the,

and

its

singularly-

placed Houses, 43.

Postal Rules in Kashmir, 294.
Pravarasene, 91.

5.

Naoshera,

Population, 96.

Poshiana

Preparations for Visiting Kash-

37.

Nasseb Bagh, 159.

Native Agent at Srinagar,
Nautch Girls, 104, 263.

mir, 27.
56.

Probable Origin of the Gipsies,

104, 131.

Index.
Pundits, 101.

299

Punditanis, 106.

Serais, 35.
Servants in

Punjab, The,

i.

Shadipore, 179.

143.

Shahabad, 265.

Pushmeena,

Shah Hamadan and

Quails, 215.
Rajaori, or

Rampore,
5,

108, 129*

Shalimar Bagh, 161

Itinerary

of,

276.

Rawal Pindi and Abbotabad

Route, Itinerary

at,

Pavilion,

168;

Shangus, 263.
Shawls of Kashmir, 142

40.

50.

Kashmir, 48

Festival

of,

280.

facture,

144;

232.

7.

77.

Shupiyan, 47.
Sikh Conquest of Kashmir, 82.
Sikunder But-Shikan, 78, 256.

Silkworms and Silk Cultivation,

204.

285.

Rules, Postal, 293.

Sind River, 180.

Sind Valley, 181.

Runjit Singh's Conquest of Kash-

Singing Birds, 215.

Rules (Local)

for Visitors, 289.

Singhara,or Horned Water Nut,

mir, 82.
1

145;

Shikara, The, in.

Shumshudin,

Rozloo Valley, 268.

Rules for Travellers to Kashmir,

Manu-

Sheik Baba Wuli, 124.

Sher Garhi Fort and Palace,

Reptile, Poisonous, 230.

Rupa

Illu-

Washing, 147.
Sheesha Nag, 249.

Shrubs and Trees, 139.

Shukarudin Hill, 199.

Mahommedan Monks,

Patterns,

Religions of Kashmir, 127.

Relic at Hazratbal, 157.
Rishis

122.

minated, 169.

Rawal Pindi, 48.

Rawal Pindi and Marri Route
to

Shah Hamadan Musjid,

Shah Jehan, 161, 262.
162;

172.

Ramoo, 47.
Rampore, or Rajaori,
Rara,

40.

20.

Rajput Caste,

Bagh,

the Fakir,

123.

Rajataringini, The,

Ram

28.

Kashmir,

Lank, the

'

Silver Island,'

60.

Russian Policy in Asia, 12.

Rutten Pir Mountains, 41.

154.

Sir-i-Shur, 59.
Sirkari Bagh, 244.

Legend

of,

248.

Sadarudin, 77.

Snake Worship,

128.

Saffron Cultivation, 237.

Snipe, 215.

Samma

Sona Lank, the Golden

Siva,

Snakes, 229.

Thang,

Saidabad,

'

243.

34.

Sandrahan River,
Sena Deva, 77.

266;

Island,'

60.

Sonamarg, 'the Golden Meadow, 184.

The Happy

300
Sooran River,

Transmigration of Soul of Gulab

Singh into a Trout, 115.

43.

Sopoor, 200.
Sporting Season in Kashmir, 2 1 o.
Springs, 260.

Camping Ground

Srinagar,

at,

European

Bungalows,
56; Native Agent, ibid; CaVenice
pital of Kashmir, 91
55

Valley.

Treaty of Amritsar, 86, 282.

Trees and Shrubs, 139.

Umur

(see Ambernath), 247.

Uncleanly Habits of Kashmiris,
93-

of the East, 92

Description

of,

Visit to

and

113; Bazaars

at, 134.

Steamboat, First, in Kashmir,

163; Excitement of Kash1

miris,

66

Disappointment,

167.

Strength of Kashmir as a Frontier, 13.

Vegetables and Fruit,

Venag, Spring

37.

263, 265.
Veshau River, 268.
Vigne cited: On Beauty of Kashat,

mir, 3 ; on Name of Kashmir,

8 ; on Routes to Valley, 1 5 ;
on Geology of Valley, 66 ; on

Desiccation of Valley, 71 ; on
Natural Capabilities and Re-

Subterranean River, 260.

sources

Sultan Khan, 33.

Sunt-i-Kul Canal, 121.

Language of Kashmir, 107

on Cave of Ambernath, 247
on Temple of Martand, 255.

Sunnybawan, 179.
Surrow, or Mountain Goat,

214.

of

84;

Valley,

on
;

Villages, 203.

Vishnu, 71, 243.

Takt-i-Suliman, 58; Temple on,

60 View from, 61.

Tansan Bridge, 264.

Wangat and

Tariff of Boat Hire in Kashmir,

Waterfowl, 215.

Wardwan

75.

Tattamoola, 68.

Tawi

River, 37.

Temples
60

On

227

Takt-i-Suliman,
of Vestiges of

Rarity

Hindu, 127

in Wilderness,

Pandritan, 236

Samma

Payech,

Thang,
Martand, 255.
Thanna Mundi, 42.
241

Tibet,

243

Ruins, 183.

Weean, 240.
Weavers and Weaving,
Wild Dogs, 212.

292.

Tartar Princes of Kashmir,

its

Valley, 259.

145.

Wilson on Origin of Name of

Kashmir, 7; Early History, 74.
Wine and Cider, 138.
Winter, 112.

Wolves, 212.
Women of Kashmir,

Woolar Lake,

Yakub Khan,

98.

197.
80.

2, 183.

Tiger Cats, 211.

Zerab Khana, 'the Mint,'

Tinali, 50.

Zinulabudin, 78, 198

Tour of

Valley, 177.

124.

125.

Tomb

of,

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