19 giugno 2015

Universit Cattolica del Sacro Cuore

Milano

Change-Makers.
The material basis
of sustainable fashion

p. 1

A project by sustainability-lab with Centro ModaCult, Universit Cattolica del

Sacro Cuore.

www.sustainability-lab.net
info@blumine.it
The research team:
Marco Ricchetti, sustainability-lab
Aurora Magni, sustainability-lab and Universit Cattaneo-LIUC
Emanuela Mora, Centro ModaCult, Universit Cattolica del Sacro Cuore, Milano
Fabio Guenza, sustainability-lab
Alberto Saccavini, sustainability-lab
Karan Khurana, sustainability-lab

Draft
Milano, 18.06.2015

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution NoDerivatives 4.0 International
License.

You can copy and redistribute the material in any medium or format under the following
terms: You must give appropriate credit and provide a link to the original source, you may
not change or modify text data or charts.

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The participating companies

Besani. Knitted Fabrics .............................................................................................. 4

Canepa. Noble fibers fabrics .................................................................................... 7
Dienpi. Labels and tags ........................................................................................... 10
Giovanni Lanfranchi - Lampo. Zippers.................................................................. 13
Itaclab. Collections development and garments finishings ............................... 16
Italdenim. Yarn and Fabric...................................................................................... 19
ITV Denim. Yarn and Fabrics .................................................................................. 22
Mantero. Silk fabrics and printing ......................................................................... 25
Radici Group. Chemical Fibers ............................................................................... 28
Tessitura Imperiali. Silk Weaving ........................................................................... 31
Wash Italia. Product development and garments finishings ............................ 34

Note: further to the above listed companies Miroglio Group has participated in
the project. The text of the interview to Miroglio Group is still pending for revision
it will be included in the final version of the document.

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Besani. Knitted Fabrics

www.besani.eu
The area between Varese and Milan is marked by towns like Gallarate, Busto
Arsizio and Legnano, which until the 90's was one of the most important
European centers for cotton processing. To remind this are the great nineteenthcentury factories many of which are now reconverted into institutional buildings,
shopping malls and universities. But cotton in Lombardy is not just nostalgic
memory. It is still selected and carefully worked in companies that know how to
value fabrics and garments for the high end boutiques.
Besani srl well represents this reality living on small but innovative textile firms
which have addressed this crisis by pushing the accelerator on quality and
internationalization.
With its 30 employees and a turnover made 40% in China and the United States,
Besani srl designs and manufactures knitted fabrics in fine cottons for
major high-end sportswear brands. A production of 141,000 kg/year
become polo and t-shirts for tennis, sailing, golf or simply for everyday wear with
casual elegance. Silk was added to cotton as it further enhances fabrics
preciousness.
Besani srl was founded in the late sixties at the initiative of three contractors,
two of which today are still present in the company while the third was replaced
by the son of one of the founders, Mario Riva, today in his forties.

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Interview with Mario Riva

How does the culture of sustainability fit in your company?

Being born in a textile environment, having played with cones of yarns and
remnants of fabrics, is a kind of imprinting that makes you feel part of an
industrial culture and is difficult not to get passionate with. My generation
of entrepreneurs represented the second and even the third generation who
have not experienced the years of growth of Italian Fashion and had to
confront with the competition of products imported from the Far East, with
the crisis, the last of which took very negative effects on the Made in Italy
supply chain. But perhaps we have learned to hold on and especially to look
beyond. In other words, the crisis has forced us to grow and in our case, we
have approached the issue of sustainability with interesting results.
The culture of sustainability can not be improvised. A company with a
solid history of product quality and service, used to monitor processes
and compare objective data can use it to increase competitiveness. Can
You explain how the company has implemented a sustainable vision?
The company over the years has adopted certification strategies that have
improved product in relation to chemical safety and environmental impact
of processes: from the choice of FilodiScozia yarns to Oekotex certification
to the traceability system TF by Unionfiliere or the recent SteP certification. It
was a gradual process. For some time we reflected on how we could do
business without harming the environment irreparably, on how to reduce
resources consumption, waste, emissions without sacrificing to provide the
fashion world with beautiful and innovative fabrics. To achieve this we
operate on several fronts and certifications are designed to make this effort
visible to our customers. For example we choose less energy-intensive
technologies and use at the same time new generation and 'old' machines
able to ensure the best performance results. In selecting our suppliers we do
not adopt the logic of the cost advantage but we favour the sharing of
common objectives, trust and where possible, the geographical proximity.
Without being rhetorical, even in the most difficult times we have chosen to
produce in Italy. We believe that sustainability is the result of small everyday
gestures such as the choice of renewable or recycled office materials and
constant attention to energy savings. Eventually, in September 2014 we
publicly committed to Detox solution proposed by Greenpeace, it is perhaps
the most visible piece of this strategy.

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How the company managed the supply chain relationships to become

compliant to the Detox commitment?
Our company relies on suppliers that provide the wet treatments,
cooperative supply chain relationships are thus crucial to ensure hazardous
chemicals do not enter in the process. The relationship with our suppliers is
based on partnership and trust. Detox allows us to strengthen this synergy
and grow together with our suppliers, on the other hand what sustainability
is but a continuous effort to improve?

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Canepa. Noble fibers fabrics

www.canepa.it
Canepa is a major Italian fabric maker, it combines industrial organization with
artisan care in products design and customer relationships. Established in 1966
by the Canepa family which still is at the helm, it is now part of a group that has
its centre and most of the supply chain within the Como silk district.
One quarter of the over 700 employees consists of creative technicians who
design each year over 25,000 original designs. The activity covers the entire cycle
of creation, production and distribution of fabrics and textile accessories, for
both men and women, for the big international fashion brands. The group
develops and produces collections of accessories and clothing that distributes
under its own brand names.

Interview with Alfonso Saibene Canepa, Supply Chain & Sustainability Director

How does the culture of sustainability fit in your business?

Canepa sees sustainability as technological innovation. There are two ways
to do sustainability: the first is achieved by optimizing production processes
and applying the best available practices, the second by changing the rules
of the game through innovation. In recent years the sustainability of
materials, processes and chemistry has improved and for textile companies,
opportunities for optimization and to change the way we work', evolving
from as it always has been', definitely increased. However, the
improvements that can be obtained with optimization have a limit. Without

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innovation in the textile processes you can not achieve a radical

improvement. This vision of sustainability as innovative practice led Canepa
to emphasize the measurement of results. Engage, recognize and affirm
principles is a key issue, but ultimately advances in sustainability - for
example in terms of environmental impact - are all about improvements
over existing technologies: how you improve, which are the reference
parameters, how stable, enduring and industrialized are the improvements?
At Canepa we use to claim we have made a step forward in sustainability
only when we can actually measure it.
Can You tell us about the consequences of the commitment to
sustainability for the business organization and production processes?
In recent years we have introduced a radical innovation in the process of
preparing the yarn for weaving, replacing many chemical auxiliaries with a
substance called chitosan, which enables a significant cut in the
environmental impact, in particular, it delivers tremendous savings in
energy and water use. We also tested first and then applied industrially the
use of chemical substances with lower impact in the process of purge and
charge of silk, also in this case obtaining significant and measurable results.
We are now working to apply our innovations to specific problems, for
example in the field of flame-retardant treatments - often required by law,
for example in the US - which is usually made with harmful substances.
Having invested so much in the development of sustainable innovative
processes has led us naturally to spread an increased focus on
sustainability in the corporate culture - a task actually still in progress and
that requires continuous updating. In 2013 we signed, first textile company
in the world, the DETOX commitment promoted by Greenpeace.
Does sustainability pay off? What have been the results in terms of
business development?
The evolution of the market sensitivity towards sustainability is more like an
explosion than a regular development, within a few years the scenario has
changed: producing and selling sustainable fabrics is no longer a way to
differentiate or add value, it is a prerequisite, a threshold for admission to
the market, if you are not engaged in sustainability you are out. The
thresholds today are gradually but continually, raising: a company,
preparing for the future, must move beyond standards and thresholds
established by law, anticipating future evolutions. Our sustainable
innovations have been ahead on the evolution of market demand, we bet
that the market would go in that direction: that decision paid off, if we had
not made it today we would struggle to maintain our leadership position.
We must admit this is still a chaotic phase in the process of freeing fashion
from hazardous substances: it is not easy today to ensure compliance with

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the requirements of our customers, often the requests are initially purely
theoretical. It is in the relationship with customers that, together, we
translate the theoretical requests into achievable goals, streamlining the
whole supply chain.
Sustainability is a journey and not an end point, what are the next steps
of your journey?
Sustainability in the fashion industry is still in a beginning stage: we covered
only the first few steps of a long journey. We are now addressing the real
issue, which is the innovation of green chemistry in particular in dyes and
textile auxiliaries. Until now the most careful and advanced textile
companies have been able to optimize, selecting in the processes for the
better, more sustainable chemicals on the market, but the path that can
lead us to have dyes and auxiliaries on the market in line with the
sustainability requirements is still long. The first problem we have to solve is
information: we must know what there is in the dyes and auxiliaries we buy.
We are still in a phase where the producers of chemicals ask us to just trust
their declaration that a product conforms to a sustainability protocol, in the
absence of chemical lab tests prooving their actual compliance. There is
demand for transparency from our customers but we buy chemicals in a
black box. Greater transparency from manufacturers of dyes and chemical
auxiliaries: this is today the crucial point! To solve this problem we need all
interested parties make their voices sound louder in the relationships with
the chemical industry giants, to make the changes happen.

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Dienpi. Labels and tags

www.dienpi.com
Born from the initiative of three young entrepreneurs Dienpi is a company
dedicated to the research, graphic design and production of fashion labels and
tags for apparel made with always new techniques and materials: paper, cloth,
leather, eco-leather, jacron. The leather products are made exclusively in Italy
and all the labels have a lot of identification, to allow clients to track the batch of
leather from which they come from.

Interview with Doriana Marini, CEO

The degree of sustainability of a garment is not given only by the fabric

but also by the accessories used. All the labels needed to highlight the
brand producing the article and to give information to the consumer
about the characteristics of what they are purchasing must be
produced with respect for environmental and social criteria.
However small a label is a complex product. It is composed of raw materials
of different origin, tissue but also leather, hide, paper, polymers. It is made
with embroidery, ink, sequins, stones and other aesthetic applications. Each
of these materials have specific environmental concerns that must be
known and managed in the design phase.
It is precisely the design phase the heart of this small and dynamic
company of Ascoli Piceno that is making itself heard (also) for its
environmental commitment. How do you create a sustainable label?

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First listening to the needs of our clients, among which there are big names
in the international fashion system and who in most cases have sustainable
production policies, often consequence of their commitment to
environmental campaigns, so to ensure the absence of hazardous
chemicals on labels is a priority. Our environmental policy is not only a
response to the demands of the fashion market that has become greener in
recent years, is a matter of corporate culture that we pursue with passion.
Designing a label is exciting, it is necessary to do just the style of the client
and of the collection in which it is intended, to choose the materials and
processes to lower environmental impact without compromising the desired
aesthetic effect. With surprise we realized that this environmnetal attention
allows us to get even more original effects. In other words ecodesign is an
enhancement of creativity not a constraint, it pushes you to consider
solutions and materials to which you would not have thought in designing a
standard product, with results stylistically interesting.
Pushing on creativity and research then, a rich archive of ideas and
suggestions, but also a rigorous organizational model.
Our products reflect all the quality standards required by current
regulations for workers protection and work ethic. This is achieved by
paying close attention to the materials used and the relationship with
suppliers. We favour sustainable raw materials such as recycled paper or
from renewable plantations, chrome-free leather, water-based inks, recycled
fabrics or with environmental certifications. Given that on a label there can
be up to 12 different materials and that we produce each year an average
of over 900 different types of labels, (a total of about 5 million of various
kinds of labels per year) to ensure the safety of finished products requires a
constant monitoring of materials and activities carried out internally as well
as those given to our suppliers. Since sustainability is not only respect for
the environment but also valuing the people who contribute to create a
product, Dienpi has initiated the process of compliance with all rules and
ethical conduct in order to obtain in 2014 the SA8000 certification.
Some specific sustainability project?
I would like to mention our etiECO line, labels made with leather from
Italian farms and tanned without chrome but with natural tannins. The
result is a washable label with a good degree of dimensional stability. The
collection Living Matter instead favours organic or recycled fibers, canvas,
handmade paper, wood, jacron and certified eco-leather. Even the colours
used to dye and print labels in this range are natural, with shades ranging
from beige to ecru, to dove to brown, to the range of avion. We play with
forms, overlays, folds and perforations of labels and hanging tags. Waste
due to die cutting become sophisticated basis for new accessories. We have

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also researched and recovered some ancient natural dyeing techniques,

such as the light blue obtained from WOAD, typical plant of central Italy.
Furthermore in Barcelona, in May 2015, at Denim by Premiere Vision has
been presented the ITS network comprised of companies that in different
ways participate in Jeans supply chain, of which Dienpi is member. During
the event was presented the sustainability handbook that the ITS Network
has adopted to address the issue in an integrated manner. An important
initiative and the first in the world of jeans that values the local sustainable
and innovative supply chains.
What is the smart label created by Dienpi?
It is a smart label, that communicates with all smartphones and tablets
equipped with NFC (Near Field Communication). Ii is enough to bring the
NFC phone close label and read what appears on the display, therefore it is
an excellent information tool to give consumers information on the
characteristics and productive history of the product, thus also its
sustainability content. It is a great tool in the fight to counterfeiting in
fashion and it is resistant to washing and various wet treatments. We
believe it is a valuable tool in spreading of responsible consumption
especially in a sector such as fashion in which the traceability of the
multiple production stages of a product is a very important value.
Next Step?
Our core busines is printing, we use inks and glues. We want to use them
according to the most ambitious environmental and chemical safety
standards. This is why we are currently working on an audit of all the
products we use to ensure they are compliant to the Greenpeace Detox
committment. Our goal is to publicly commit in the next months.

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Giovanni Lanfranchi - Lampo. Zippers

www.lampo.eu
Giovanni Lanfranchi has an ancient history. It was established in the second half
of the 19th century by the initiative of a courageous technician in a button
factory in Brescia area who decided to open his own production unit and grab
the opportunities offered by the then in vogue and growing corozo market. He
lived the glories of the industrial revolution but also two world wars, the
restrictions of the autocratic Fascist period, then the economic boom, the growth
of prestige of Made in Italy to the most recent events that have changed the
profile of the fashion industry and pushed the accelerator on
internationalization.

Interview with Gaetano Lanfranchi, CEO

How does the culture of sustainability fit in your company?

In more than a century our company has been able to innovate, to enter
new markets, confront important challenges. Founded as a button factory it
has been able to grab the opportunity to specialize in a field that in the 30's
was highly innovative, the zippers whose use was spreading, changing
consumer habits. We are very proud of our history and it takes the concrete
form of experience, technical expertise, corporate culture, values to be
transmitted from generation to generation. But an important past should
not prevent you from looking ahead, on the contrary. The strength of a
company is to maintain the pleasure of research and experimentation, in

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knowing how to interpret the needs of consumers and the market

anticipating them, wherever possible.
A zipper is a complex product, which summarizes functionality but also
fashion features: colours, shapes, design, decoration.
Designed to be invisible in some garments, while in others are the real
protagonists as confirmed in latest fashion trends. The first zippers were
manufactured at the end of the 1800s, then the new materials, the
engineering in the sliding, the study of loads and tensions made the zippers
irreplaceable components in many garments, footwear and bags.
The Company collaborates with major brand, providing high end market
products, designed to combine aesthetics, originality and maximum
functionality. Often we make small batches featured not only to satisfy the
demands of style but also to ensure the strength of the materials in special
performance contexts or climate. A zipper for a bag for the Chinese market,
for example, must withstand chemical and environmental attacks
completely different to those in Europe (heat, humidity, pollution, storage
during transport... ) Sometimes you use precious materials such as gold to
prevent the oxidation, in other cases, the zippers are designed to withstand
treatments on finished garments as the stone washing for jeans. We have
also patented an anti-counterfeiting zipper (Taggie) by placing in the cursor
a permanent device capable of giving information about the origin of the
product and its features thanks to a micro Radio Frequency Identification
(RFID) system.
How do you manage to ensure maximum quality and such a wide
variety of products?
Our company is vertically integrated and develops internally all the phases
of production, from the weaving of the tape to the processing of the metal
part, teeth and slider. Our technological systems are designed to ensure
maximum versatility, creating customizations even on small batches in
order to satisfy market requirements. This allows us not only to provide a
product completely Made in Italy but also react efficiently by ensuring
quality and at the same time, containing the environmental costs, reduce
waste and emissions. To control the production steps is the condition for
testing new solutions, to operate in a logic of problem solving and provide
sustainability programs.

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Ditta Giovanni Lanfranchi has chosen a 360 degrees approach to

sustainability. The measures taken over the years are reflected in the
installation of photovoltaic systems that save energy, in a powerful
waste water treatment plant, in the constant recycling of all waste
production and packaging, in technologies that reduce the pollutants
and therefore emissions.
Since several years we have devoted attention to the environmental impact
of our products with the aim of creating zippers not only beautiful and highperforming but also low in CO2. Recently we opened of a new galvanic plant
that, while doubling the production capacity, reduces by 30% water
consumption and 35% waste production. The fumes are treated according
to the BAT (Best Available Techniques) to obtain emissions in compliance
with the highest ecological standards. After taking these initiatives, verifying
their effectiveness, we decided to accept the most difficult challenge in
recent times by signing the Greenpeace Detox commitment calling for the
elimination of 11 groups of toxic chemicals from our processes. Not an easy
task for a company that, in addition to producing the textile component of
the product, must consider also the treatment of metals notoriously made
using harsh chemicals. We believe that competitiveness will be played today
also in this area: to make available for the fashion world accessories with
an history of authenticity and environmentally and socially respectful.

p. 15

Itaclab. Collections
finishings

development

and

garments

www.itaclab.com
Itaclab is a perfect example of the hybrid nature of fashion industry where
creative skills and expertise on materials and manufacturing processes are
combined. The company is responsible for the design and development of
collections of everything related to jeans wear and the production of prototypes
and samples testing garments treatments and finishings. It belongs to Itac Group
owned by the Cossiri family, led today by the third generation of entrepreneurs.

Interview with Alfredo Cossiri, President

How does the culture of sustainability fit in your company?

Since 2009 when Itaclab started its activity, but even before, in the other
activities of the family group companies, we have always tried to be ahead
compared to the legal requirements on environmental protection, without
waiting for the law to oblige us to take action when we felt it was right. So
the group has set up water treatment plants back when the Italian law did
not require it, and from the establishment of this company we monitor
monthly the consumption and the quality of our industrial water. Today, for
example, our water treatment plant is particularly advanced and provides
an organic and ozone post-treatment.
In the definition of sustainability fall different fields of action (social,
environmental...), in which are you most involved today?

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For any company like ours that operates exclusively Made in Italy and in full
respect of the laws and working contracts, attention to social sustainability
is a matter of fact, the Italian regulatory system regarding work and safety
is very advanced and stringent. Therefore we consider social sustainability a
logic and essential feature of our business. Our main focus is on the
environmental impacts of our work, particularly in regards to quantity and
quality of the water we use and reintroduce in the environment and energy
consumption. The reason is that these two elements, and water in
particular, are critical in our processes.
What were the impacts on processes?
As regards the processes, we have systematically and progressively
optimized systems and technologies to reduce the use of water and energy.
When the company was founded in 2009, we used about 300 liters of water
per garment, today we arrived at about 1/3, 100 liters; then the greater part
of our treatments were made at 60, with great use of energy to heat the
water, we are now on an average of 30, almost at room temperature. We
have also introduced new processes and materials, this year success is the
complete elimination of formaldehyde. Also in this case we went beyond the
law that allows its use below certain thresholds. We preferred to be more
radical and become formaldehyde-free.
And on business organization?
The first pillar on which we base our commitment to sustainability is the
role of our R&D and of the laboratory for chemical and physical analysis.
Our engineers are systematically testing products and chemical treatments
with lower impact to replace those with higher impact and less
technological. The laboratory systematically analyses the chemicals we use
to verify their conformity to the technical sheets and to our safety and
performance parameters. The use of any chemical in production is
conditioned by the laboratory green light. If a client asks us for special
treatment for which are necessary auxiliaries that do not fit our standard,
the laboratory does not give the green light, therefore we renounce to apply
the treatment. The second pillar is the stable relationship with our
chemicals suppliers. It is a clear policy, I would say a company's culture, we
maintain long-term relationships with suppliers, even beyond price
convenience, we think the first victim of the exasperated search of price and
price wars among suppliers, is the opportunity for collaboration. There is
need for partnership. We think that collaboration, ultimately, is beneficial.
In this way we establish a transparent relationship with suppliers
particularly in regards to information on chemical formulations. We
actually know what there is in the chemicals we use. We can also work with

p. 17

our suppliers to minimize or eliminate the chemicals that we believe

potentially dangerous.
Does sustainability pay off? What have been the results in terms of
business development?
Sustainability is a key factor in our market positioning. There is a sort of
virtuous circle. Our vision led us to be appreciated by clients, especially in
north of Europe and America, particularly sensitive to sustainability.
Working with them, including the often very ambitious and restrictive audits
we received, made us grow, acquire specific know-how, incentivise us to
improve our processes. Today thanks to this, the environmental quality of
our processes distinguishes us on the market. If we look today at our clients
base, we can see that there was a natural selection and today it is made
mainly by brands concerned by sustainability. To engage with these clients
can be considered a limit in terms of potential for growth, but also in this
case the trust and collaboration with this clients segment makes us
stronger.
They say that sustainability is a journey and not an end point, what are
the next steps of your journey?
An important step is determined by the continuous attention to
optimization of water and energy consumption. Equally important right now
is for us to align to the most ambitious protocols regarding the elimination
of hazardous chemicals. We started working to align with the Detox protocol
and we think to commit publicly in the next future.

p. 18

Italdenim. Yarn and Fabric

www.italdenim.it
Italdenim is a Lombardy based company that designs and produces the fabric for
top global jeans brands. With an annual output of 5 million meters of fabric, it is
one of the leading companies in the European market of denim fabrics. Recently
reached the headlines for having signed -first in the world among denim
manufacturers- Detox Greenpeace campaign.

Interview with Gigi Caccia, CEO

Each year more than 2 billion pairs of jeans are produced in the world
confirming that this garment is indispensable and irreplaceable. How
does the culture of sustainability fit in the denim market?
Right now we are experiencing an interesting phenomenon and I am not
referring only to the constant demand for denim by the fashion market.
While the digital culture seems at the center of every relationship and the
basis of self representation, there is an incresed attention from consumers
on the quality of what they buy. The tactile feel of a fabric, its production
history are regaining importance. To produce ecologically is a way to
answer to this request for authenticity providing consumers with beautiful
and performing fabrics that are also ecological and ethical.
What was the meaning of the Detox commitment for Italdenim?
The Detox commitment was an important fact in the history of Italdenim
and rewards an effort started several years ago. For some time now we

p. 19

have being working to reduce the environmental impact of our work, to

lower water and energy consumption, and emissions. In our company we
carry out internally all stages of cotton processing, from spinning to
weaving, to warpage, to all finishing processes. Only a marginal part of the
work is oursourced. The presence in our headquarters in Inveruno of all
stages of production enables us to operate in full control of our processes
and on how they are carried out, a key condition for monitoring
environmental effects and enable improvement actions.
How do you create a sustainable fabric?
The degree of sustainability of a denim fabric is given by many factors that
are considered in the design stage of the fabric, starting from the raw
material. We are interested in GOTS certified organic cottons, those from
ethical and Fair Trade productions and BCI cotton, we also recover all our
production waste and we recycle them. Even the polyester used in some
product lines comes from second life PET. But the ecological characteristic
of a pair of jeans is given especially by dyeing, washing and finishing
processes. In finishing processes, like sizing, dyeing, washing and finishing,
we favour low environmental impact solutions such as dyeing with indigo
and textile auxiliaries which are the result of our research. Also the
technologies are managed to achieve the maximum yield with lower energy,
water and chemical compounds consumption. Of course the search for
more environmentally friendly solutions is combined with the study of the
best fabric performances that must have aesthetic and tactile effects
coherent with fashion trends but also the right functionalization in terms of
fit.
To produce a jeans a low environmental impact is not simple. How do
you manage?
Processing denim involves many steps with high water consumption and
emissions of waste water loaded with dyes and textile auxiliaries, the waste
water management plays an important role. The purification plant of
Italdenim covers an area of 5000 m2, water discharges are conveyed to be
subjected to enzymatic and organic treatments before proceeding to the
separation of the sludge then sent to the dehydration process. Good waste
water management is essential, we have invested significant resources to
reduce pollutants, but we are convinced that to reduce the presence of
hazardous chemicals the best approach is not to use them, as the same
Detox commitment requires. For this reason we married with conviction the
SavetheWater project which represents a breakthrough in the preparation
of warp yarns for weaving. In conventional processes, in order to make the
warp more resistant to the stresses of the loom, it is used a hydrosoluble
synthetic thread whose elimination requires about 300 litres of water per

p. 20

kilogram of fabric, energy, and chemical detergents. We have chosen to use

chitosan, a natural biodegradable polymer obtained from crustaceans
waste used in food industry, developed and patented by Canepa Evolution
Research Center in collaboration with the laboratories CNR - ISMAC of
Biella. The use of chitosan allows to drastically reduce the consumption of
water, energy, detergents, bleaches and other chemical agents. The
treatment also acts as a sanitizer, a feature that will remain on the fabric
and finished garments. An example of how it is not only possible but also
necessary to improve products and at the same time make sure that
production does not harm the environment. This is the meaning of today's
textile materials research and the ground on which to intensify the synergy
between companies and research centers.

p. 21

ITV Denim. Yarn and Fabrics

www.itvdenim.com
ITV was established in Vicenza in 1972 thanks to the intuition and deep
knowledge of the textile sector of Romano Gnutti, still president of this family
run business, now at its third generation. In the 90s most of the production is
transferred in Abruzzi a region that found in the jeans production its own
industrial peculiarity. In an area of 24 thousand square meters ITV Denim
performs all stages of denim production: from spinning to cotton

Interview with Paolo Gnutti, Vice-President

How does sustainability fit in your business?

Sustainability is a commitment that we pursue with passion since many
years. We believe that a company should do business and have its income
statement as a priority, but the business model we have created and we
want to strengthen is based on a constant search for technical solutions to
guarantee to the fabric excellent aesthetic and performance results with a
low environmental cost, without forgetting the ethics that has always been a
core value of our family and of our company. The growing demand for
ecological standards by brand confirms that we are on the right track.
How important are the raw materials to ensure a sustainable jeans?
The primary fibre used in denim is of course cotton that, as we know, has a
high environmental impact in the cultivation stage requiring a lot of water

p. 22

and many chemicals such as insecticides, fertilizers, herbicides. In addition,

often cotton carries stories of exploitation and poverty. For this we favour
BCI cotton (Better Cotton Initiative) that allows to support farmers in
developing countries and their communities or cottons produced in certified
and ethical supply chains. Furthermore, in our collections we also use
natural fibres such as linen, silk and of course elastomers from carefully
selected suppliers. We are also working on projects related to the
development of our territory. We want to develop with suppliers and clients
collaborative projects and research. The dyes and chemical auxiliary
suppliers are, in this regard, particularly important since with them we can
find ways to reduce hazardous chemicals in dyeing and finishing processes
and fabric washing.
Can you give us a practical example?
For some time now we are testing and offering our clients denim yarn dyed
using wineries waste. An initiative with surprising aesthetic effects since the
fabric, starting from the classic denim blue colour, can change shade
depending on the temperature and acidity of the bath while maintaining a
good level of solidity. Furthermore using wine, that is biological substances
and not synthetic dyes, no pollutants are released in waste water. An
interesting experiment that allows to value wine industry waste for which
ITV Denim holds a worldwide patent.
Can technology play a role in the search for a more sustainable textile
industry?
The denim supply chain uses a lot of energy and chemicals and large
quantities of water. Fortunately, in recent years, the textile machinery
manufacturers have developed systems capable of reducing these volumes.
But in order to make the supply of technologies even more effective in terms
of sustainability it is necessary to develop a constant collaboration between
textile, chemical and mechanical industry. In partnership with a textile
machinery manufacturer we have developed and patented 'ONE DROP' an
innovative laundry plant that recovers 80% of the process water and to
operate without chemicals. A true revolution in our sector on which we have
created a special fabrics collection.
Does the focus on sustainability reflects also in the organizational
model?
Sustainability can not be limited to mere compliance with the law, it is an
effort for continuous improvement. An important role should be given to
fabric design that in our case is based on the principles of eco-design,
looking for solutions to meet the colours, tactile and functional expectations

p. 23

of the market but in more environmental effective ways. Our design

department is somehow the heart of this model and includes Research and
Development activities. ITV Denim is a vertically integrated company that
operates in two production units, so virtually local. This allows us to monitor
every stage of production, to identify problems and to monitor the effects of
the innovations introduced. Furthermore, our company is certified to EMAS
and Oekotex, experiences that contribute to strengthening the practice of
gathering and analyzing objective data, a fundamental approach to address
sustainability.
How important is your homeland in the industrial sustainability
culture?
The textile industry has strong roots in local history and this is certainly a
strength. Cooperation between neighbouring companies allows to be more
effective in responding to market demands but also to grow together and to
better deal with rough times. This is why we joined the ITS network that
brings together companies from jeans supply chain in Marche and Abruzzi
regions and that focuses specifically on sustainable jeans production.
Future projects?
We plan to consolidate the work of elimination of hazardous chemicals
aligning with the most advanced protocols, we are verifying the real
possibility of signing the DETOX commitment with in 2015.

p. 24

Mantero. Silk fabrics and printing

www.mantero.com
Mantero Seta has its roots in the land of the Como silk district where it was
established in 1902. In over 100 years of history, the family of the founder
Riccardo Mantero has steadily maintained its commitment in the ownership and
management of the company which is now run by the fourth generation of
family entrepreneurs.
The activity covers the entire cycle of creation, production and distribution of
fabrics and textile accessories for men and women. Customers are international
and include top global luxury and fashion brands, but also some fast fashion
leaders.

Interview with Franco Mantero, CEO

How does the culture of sustainability fit in your business?

It's in our heritage: we learned from the bond with our homeland that the
success of a company depends on the value of its employees and the quality
of the environment where it is located; our work is half way between crafts
and industry, it is to shape with great care difficult products, this has taught
us to value the skills of our employees and suppliers; finally, the respect of
the ideas and needs of each customer was the guiding star of Riccardo
Mantero when he founded the company more than 100 years ago. These
principles are -in short- what is today called management for stakeholders
and are fully integrated in Mantero Seta mission statement.

p. 25

How did it work for the company organization and your supply chain?
An essential step has been to engage everyone, every single worker, and
make the new standard pervasive in the company. We had to change our
concept of how chemicals contribute to the quality of the products as well
as our mindset about chemicals safety: it has to do with the vision of the
company and the quality of the product, it is not just about the bureaucratic
compliance to laws and norms. Aligning the entire company to this view is
the only way to actually reach it. In this context we have created a new unit
which has the task of monitoring and assessing all aspects of the
sustainable quality of our processes and products. Finally, this reflects also
in the relationships with our supply chain. We discovered hidden values,
which we had not perceived as yet, in some of our suppliers who had
already invested in innovative and cleaner processes and environmental
certifications. More in general, we have expanded the dialogue with our
suppliers and increased information exchange, thereby strengthening the
partnership. It was, we must admit, an unexpected but very interesting
effect, that has turned a problem into an opportunity.
Does sustainability pay off? What have been the results in terms of
business development?
We believe the demand for sustainability that comes from our customers is
a permanent factor. It is a component of the business model no modern
textile company can miss, a key to success in the international markets for
companies that focus on quality. Competitors unable to demonstrate a
serious commitment to sustainability will gradually be expelled from the
market. This perspective offers a competitive advantage to Italian and
European companies, over competitors located in countries whose sole
advantage is cost and where the regulatory framework for sustainability is
maintained weak. Our sustainability committment has delivered positive
results for our business, our customers have been able to measure our
effort and some of the brands most sensitive to sustainability have recently
begun to work with us because of this.
They say that sustainability is a journey and not an end point, what are
the next steps of your journey?
Our first short term goal is to consolidate the results obtained with the ban
of hazardous chemicals by publicly committing to the most ambitious and
advanced standards, the DETOX solution proposed by Greenpeace is the
one we are working on currently. The issue of clean and safe chemicals has
a particular value for Mantero, especially with regards to dyes. We think
colors as our core business, the printed colors is what makes our fabrics
unique. Our aim is to be number one and world leader in colors

p. 26

management. Cutting edge innovation and research in dyestuff currently

points to safer and greener formulations, we cannot afford to miss it. We
have the ambition to lead the market, to be the first to adopt more
sustainable formulations and to exert a pressure on dyes manufacturers.
Then we have a second goal, that of greater transparency on all aspects of
sustainability in the supply chain. With regard to our clients transparency is
the better way to demonstrate the sustainability of our products. For us to
be transparent with our clients means nothing more than being a
competent professional and serious partner. With suppliers transparency
means clearly defined long-term goals and collaborative relations, a winwin approach aimed at reaching mutual interests. It is nonetheless clear
that transparency does not mean transforming the company into a 'glass
house'. Often our work is in the invention of processes and combinations of
materials that meet specific requirements of our clients, customizing
ingredients and recipes, these are the 'secrets' that make our products
unique. These secrets are our distinctive know-how and the basis of our
competitive advantage, and cannot be disclosed.

p. 27

Radici Group. Chemical Fibers

www.radicigroup.com
Radici Group is a multinational company with deep roots in Italy, particularly in
the valleys surrounding Bergamo where it was established at the beginning of
1900. Today it has factories and sales offices in Europe, USA, South America, Asia
where, with over 3000 employees, conducts diverse operations and focuses in
the areas of chemicals, plastics, synthetic fibers and nonwovens. The textile
component production has applications in clothing, furnishings, automotive,
floorings, in technical textiles. Radici Group is among the 5 largest world
producers of polyamide fiber, also known as nylon.
The company has always been committed to research and technological
innovation and devotes significant resources to improve the performance of its
products from an environmental perspective.

Interview with Filippo

sustainability programs

Servalli,

marketing

director and

responsible

for

How does the culture of sustainability fit in your business?

The chemical industry, perhaps sooner than other industries, has learned to
confront the effects of their operations on the environment and health of
people, are these employees involved in the working processes or
consumers who will use the end products. The public opinion concern with
respect to emissions from processes, even before the legislative obligations,
have stimulated internal monitoring policy and corrective and preventive

p. 28

actions. Transforming precautionary approaches in risk management

policies for sustainability in chemical processes and products is a natural
evolution that confirms the maturity of the chemical industry.
How do you transform this sensitivity in a industrial practice?
Be aware of the potential environmental effects of their activities but also of
its social role is the first step for a company that wants to compete on
sustainability. This is not possible without a rigorous and systematic
measurement of indicators not only environmental and economic, but also
related to human rights, working conditions and practices, product
responsibility. An approach that can be summarized in our motto: 'you can
manage what you can measure'. In practice, this corporate philosophy is
reflected in the commitment to provide our customers with scientific
information on the environmental impact of products with verifiable data
that can actually be compared and in finding solutions that enable better
environmental performance without compromising quality and
performance of products.
The industrial system today has powerful tools such as the LCA method
(Life Cycle Assessment) that allows you to weigh the environmental
performance of the processes, and then develop and obtain specific EPD
(Environmental Product Declaration) that qualify the product based on
its specific environmental cost.
The Radici Group has subjected to LCA the main categories of products and
this has allowed us for example to compare environmentally virgin fibers
with recycled PET fibers by assessing the various energy and water
consumption and the footprint of the individual filaments in terms of CO2
equivalent. This is an activity of scientific value which pushes on continuous
improvement not only in a single company but all the producers that
produce similar products. Radici Group was in fact the first company in
Europe to develop a PCR (Product Category Rules) in man made fibers by
establishing parameters and environmental rules that represent a reference
model for the international production system. Our company was also the
first chemical reality in Europe to have obtained the certificates of
conformity OEF (Organization Environmental Footprint) and PEF (Product
Environmental Footprint).
How do you transfer this commitment to the products that Radici
Group studies and produces?
As regards the production of man made fibers the sustainable strategy of
Radici Group comprises different development directions. Aware of the need
to reduce the dependence of our products from fossil sources, we have

p. 29

developed a line of biopolymers, in particular bio-polyamides obtained

partially or fully from renewable sources, specifically by integrating the
synthetic polymer with cellulose from castor seeds. The second production
line regards filaments obtained from recycling of post-industrial manufacturing - waste and post consumer waste, like the PET derived from
the recycling of plastic bottles. The polyesters produced, subjected to LCA,
have been shown to have reduced environmental cost compared to virgin
ones, not forgetting the considerable reduction in water consumption, more
than 95 %, for mass dyed yarn.
It is possible to cite Radici Group as a positive example of eco design?
The eco-design project starts from the raw materials and includes all the
different stages of processing up to the finished product. Only in this way
you can design materials, not only characterized by a low environmental
impact because born from industrial low energy processes, but which are
also recyclable. In the specific case of Radici Group the virtuous circle, that
will be implemented along its entire supply chain, goes exactly in this
direction: eco design and optimization of the production processes for a
sustainable recycling, from the polymer for the technopolymers until to the
yarns. If we take the case of the synthetic nylon fibers for example, from
their mechanical regeneration you can obtain plastic material, a
technopolymer, without the need for chemical processes, such as the
depolymerization, very expensive in terms of both energy and emissions.

p. 30

Tessitura Imperiali. Silk Weaving

www.attilioimperiali.it
Como is known as the Silk District, over the years has been challenging the
contamination of man-made fibers managing to combine tradition and
innovation, style and technical performance, aesthetic and research. This story
that tastes of past and future, is part of the Tessitura Attilio Imperiali of Lurate
Caccivio whose origins are rooted in the second half of the 19th century,
although the establishment of the company in its current form dates back in the
sixties.
At the beginning of his history, the production of Tessitura Inperiali was focused
on wedding and ceremony textiles. Growth has been rapid and in the following
years was created the department of footwear fabrics strengthening the offer of
fashion fabrics at 360 degrees. Today Tessitura Attilio Imperiali produces high
fashion fabrics for leading international brands, fabrics that range from clothing
to accessories, shoes and bags.
Interview with Giovanni Di Gristina, General Director

How does the culture of sustainability fit in your business?

Our work is a constant search for designs, shades, tactile effects but also
functional performances. Sensitivity to ecological issues has always had a
role in the culture of our company and in recent years we have enhanced
our efforts and skills in monitoring the environmental impact of processes.
It is a committment we share with our supply chain from raw materials
providers to finishing and wet processes suppliers. All the members of our
supply chain are critical to the success of our company.

p. 31

Tessitura Attilio Imperiali is a medium size enterprise that has chosen

to be present abroad aware of international prestige acquired by the
Como area and its productions. For its collections favours natural fibers
of great value such as silk and linen, but also artificial fibers, in
particular viscose, capable to give strength and toughness to fabrics
intended for shoes and bags.
The organizational model of Tessitura Attilio Imperiali is based on flexibility
and problem solving. On the basis of the proposals developed by the style
department and shared with our clients, we start internal production
processes (preparation and weaving) and those outsourced (dyeing,
printing, finishing, bonding). We have a wide range of proposals, but the
star of our production is the 'Imperiali Satin', designed especially for shoes
and bags. It's a tissue full-bodied yet soft to touch, available in hundreds of
different colors, bondings (plain weave, knit, microfiber, gauze ...) and
developed with various aesthetic effects due to lamination, laser treatments,
embroideries. Each sample has a history of creativity and workmanship that
makes it unique.
A quick visit to the style department of the company and there is no
doubt: the management of Tessitura Attilio Imperiali does not give
credit to those who argue that the green fabrics could only have poor
fashion effects while fashion fabrics can be made only at high
environmental cost.
This is our challenge: to create fantastic fabrics but at the same time reduce
the cost required to the environment in terms of water use and emissions.
The issue of sustainability has matured in recent years as personal and
business need even before that as a response to the requests of our
customers. Certainly the demand for fabrics without toxic chemicals has
grown in the last three years and has pushed us to deepen a path that we
had only glimpsed. For years we have been promoting actions to
compensate the CO2 created in production, planting trees in peripheral
areas of our region thanks to the ReteClima project. We knew that this
activity to which we are still very loyal was not sufficient. It was necessary to
deepen the knowledge of our production activities, identify the critical
factors, set with our suppliers corrective actions. A journey started recently,
but that has pushed us to subscribe, in September 2014, the Detox
commitment launched by Greenpeace that provides for the elimination of
11 groups of hazardous substances from our supply chain.

p. 32

In the definition of sustainability fields of action are very different, in

which are you now more engaged?
We strongly committed to DETOX, however Sustainability for Imperiali is not
limited to chemical risk and emissions management although it is a priority
in line with market trend and the company environmental vision, but is also
expressed in a series of social initiatives particularly aimed at young people
and in support of schools and universities. The Fashion Academy project, for
example, was created in 2014 and involved a group of young fashion
designers in sustainability and textile, while still active a collaboration with
the tailoring workshop in Reedo in Rimini. Fabrics scraps and tests are also
available for students and young designers to be used in upcycling projects.
Focusing on young people, to open our company to the future designers is
one ways we understand our mission as a sustainable company, not limited
to provide business but that it is proposed as a cultural subject in
relationship with the local communities. Investing in the youth means to
ensure a better future.

p. 33

Wash Italia.
finishings

Product

development

and

garments

www.washitalia.it
Wash Italia is an industrial laundry and dry house specialized in the treatment of
garments produced by major Italian and international brands. The company was
founded in 1986 by a group of local businessmen under the name Lavanderia
Italia snc. Growth is rapid and in 2003 with the entry of important shareholders it
becomes an inc. under the name Wash Italy. Over the years the industrial and
technological equipment have been expanded and upgraded. Also the number
of employees has increased, is now 60, and the network of suppliers who work
with us. The production capacity is over 20,000 pieces a day.

Interview with Alfredo D'Acchioli, President and CEO

Why have you decided to commit to sustainability?

First of all for the sensitivity and the convictions deeply rooted in the
company's management. It should be noted that in Italy and in Europe the
laws and environmental regulations are particularly strict and require
businesses correct behaviour and prevention. But this is not enough
because being sustainable means doing your best to reduce the negative
effects of your business activities on the environment. To encourage us to
commit on this front are also our clients, some of them major international
luxury brands that have embraced the environment commitment and
therefore ask us to share a more responsible approach.

p. 34

How do you expect to achieve tangible results?

Even though our company operates in compliance with the laws and Reach
regulation, we realize that there is a long way to go to reach zero impact
target. The strength of Wash Italia is in the ability to develop with its clients
and suppliers and contractors a relationship of effective collaboration. In
terms of sustainability this means giving priority to safe chemicals and
technologies with a lower environmental impact and to be open to the
positions expressed by environmental groups who asked fashion to face
their responsibilities.
From the organizational point of view has this environmental
awareness led some significant change?
In recent years have been spent more than 200,000 Euros in new
investments for safety and 1,000,000 Euros in expanding our water
treatment plants. Design, research and product development, quality
control, constant monitoring of the processes are steps that converge in
outlining a more environmentally friendly approach. To make this more
organic we also plan to enhance the business structure with specific
professionals who cooperate with security managers, quality control but
also with the product area and compliance experts. Sustainability is not just
ecology, is respect and appreciation of people, starting with our
collaborators. In a company that relates a lot with foreign clients and where
the number of foreign workers is growing constantly, a working relationship
based on ethical principles is essential. Therefore Wash Italia devotes great
attention to social integration projects and focuses on the professional and
cultural growth.
How ecology and fashion can meet?
The commitment to sustainable fashion is part of the attention that the
company has always devoted to product design and the development of
relations with the textile culture of the territory and its craftsmanship. We
like to call ourselves a sort of creative workshop. An entire area of the
company is totally dedicated to prototyping, screen printing and sampling.
The attention gained in respect of experiments was continuously measured
with the needs of the client to obtain replicable effects. For this purpose we
have created an archive that collects and makes visible denim fabric
samples collected all over the world, result of a research especially in
vintage markets, inspirational in testing treatments, techniques and
innovative solutions. This heritage of materials and ideas is made even
more interesting by the commitment of Wash Italia to develop technological
innovation, techniques and tools that enable the achievement of replicable
results. Another project concerns the traceability of the processed orders in

p. 35

order to ensure product quality and efficient management of the

production departments. An IT system allows to record on a main server all
the appropriate 'recipes' for each machine stage by association batch
number / machine phase / machine (data available from a wireless barcode
reader). This allows to cancel the chance for human error due to incorrect
programming of the machines, and to monitor, then check and reduce lead
times for orders. Ultimately Wash Italia is member of the ITS network that
collects the denim supply chain companies from the Marche and Abruzzi
regions with the aim of strengthening the market presence and develop
research and synergies. The issue of sustainability was immediately placed
on the agenda and is indeed recognized as a priority topic in the actions of
the network. This confirms the positive role that a territory and its cultural
identity can and should have.

p. 36