Samples in apparel industry:

There are three broad classes of samples; each of them is used for a particular phase.
These sequential phases are design, sales and production. Design related samples are
to model design ideas and finalize the pattern for production. Sales related samples are
used to predict orders from buyers. The last type of samples is intended to test
consistency in production. Technically, all sampling should take place during the first
phase of design (R&D) because selling (second phase) is impossible if there is
absence of production (third phase) lined up. There is quite a bit of overlap in the
sample depending on operation. The following are the various type of samples used in
apparel industry:
Sample garment: The garment which is produced according to buyer measurement is
called sample garment.
Prototype sample: A prototype sample is an early sample built to test a concept or
process or to act as a thing to be replicated or learned from. A prototype sample is
designed to test and try a new design to enhance precision by system analysts and
users. Prototype sampling serves to provide specifications for a real, working system
rather than a theoretical one. This sample is made by the buyer measurement & there
may be a slight deviation. This is the first sample in product development stage. In
proto samples fit and fabric detailing is not considered.
Fit sample: Once proto sample is approved, FIT is being made with actual
measurement. Modification on the pattern is done to get desired fit of the garment.
FIT is one of the most important factor to be considered during sample development.
This is a sample made from the first pattern and intended to test the designers
idea/concept or to verify garment fit and fall in the chosen fabrication by putting on
the sample in a required size and shape of dummy. In this case, the use of the original
fabric is not mandatory. If design, fabrication and fit of this sample come out as
planned and dont need corrections, it is approved and becomes the prototype sample.
This sample is also known as original sample, sample test garment, development
sample, style reference, parent pattern & design sample.
Pre-production (PP) sample: The sample which is made by using actual
measurement, fabric & accessories according to buyer specification and send to buyer
for checking is called Pre-production (PP) sample. This sampling stage is to prove the
pattern, test cost effectiveness and consistency in production whether it is done in
house or outsourced to a contractor. Buyer wants pre-production sample (PP sample)
to be made in actual production line, so that operators know what they are going to
make. This sample is made with actual fabric, trims and accessories and made by
sewing line tailors. PP sample must be approved by buyer or buying house merchants
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(technical persons) prior to proceeding actual production. In this case, only medium
size and may or may not be all color of sample are sent to buyer. This sample is also
known as pre-pro sample, P/P sample, costing sample, counter sample, salesmans
sample, sales sample & duplicates.
Size set sample: The purpose of the size set is to check fit of the garment in different
sizes. In this stage, factory develops samples in multiple sizes. Generally, buyers ask
size set sample in jump sizes, like S, L, XXL. Buyer check size set sample and give
feedback to factory if anything need to be corrected. Ideally we design sizes to target
our customer profile early on in product development. This may not be possible if
your silhouettes vary greatly between styles, meaning you will need to test sizes of
various styles. This sample is also known as sizing sample & size run sample.
Approved sample: The sample which is approved by buyer is called approved
sample. Generally 3 pieces sample are made for approval of buyer. 2 pieces are
sending to buyer and 1 piece is for counter sample. After approval of sample; buyer
take one piece and send approved sample to the manufacturer. The merchandiser
sends it for bulk production in the production unit.
Production sample: This is the final approved version of a style produced by
producer. Often a production test run is done and the output is gauged for quality and
the samples ideally used for marketing, promotion, pre-sales and perhaps trunk sales.
The quantity of units produced will vary from one to a percentage of the intended
production lot size. This can be very expensive if the run includes sample of all colors
and sizes. Generally, a single size or color of production sample is sent to buyer when
it is followed by sending all size & colored size set sample to buyer. This sample is
also known as counter sample & spec sample.
Counter Sample: Counter sample is one kind of approved sample which is not signed
by buyer is called counter sample. This sample is hanged on the sewing floor for
smooth production. To reserve with pattern for future order from buyer.
Salesmanship sample: Salesmanship samples are made to put on display in the retail
showroom. Salesmanship sample (SMS) are displayed for assessing customer's
feedback and according to customers response buyers forecast demand of a particular
style. Salesmanship samples are made with actual fabric and trims and accessories.
Buyer pays for salesmanship samples to the developer. This is the extra order of
sample than the regular order of sample. This sample is also known as show sample,
showroom sample & merchandising sample.
Shipment Sample: When style is being finished and packed for shipment, 2-3
finished and packed pieces with all packing details are kept for future reference.
Shipment sample is kept by factory merchants and buyer's merchant. The approved
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shipment is sent directly to warehouse and merchants at the buyer do not get garment
out of the shipment. That is why they keep shipment sample for future reference. This
is done to inform the buyer that the producer sent this sample. This has no relation
with quality. This sample is also known as ship sample & fulfillment sample.
Customs sample: The sample which is send to the customs department as declaration
of any size and quality.
Top of Production Sample (TOP sample): Once production is online, few pieces is
taken out in the middle of the production. Production pieces are sent to buyer as TOP
sample. All buyers do not ask for TOP sample. Purpose is to cross-check whether
factory is following PP sample specification or not. A TOP sample is pulled from the
first production run.
Photo sample: These samples are made in smaller sizes for photo shoots intended for
editorial and marketing, previously a size 4 but these days maybe a size 0. This may
not be necessary if you can pin a garment strategically on the model. If you intend to
shoot flats, you may need to cut the smaller size because its hard to get close enough
to fit garment attributes in the frame. Some people know they will need smaller sizes
for photography so they use this as their base size. This sample is also known as
model sizes sample, flat sample & editorial sample.
Final Sample: One final approved sample should always be kept in house as a means
to verify production results. It shouldnt be loaned to anyone. In effect, production
counter sample should be the final sample but contractor may use it in production as
sew by so you will need two.
Revised or Revision Sample: A revised sample is any kind of sample that is a
correction of an earlier sample that was not approved. If a revised sample is approved,
it would become known as whatever kind of sample it is intended to be.
Mock-up sample: This is a concept sample, often a rough rendition of a drape sewn
together. Used primarily by designers who prefer to convey design ideas in actual
fabric as part of their creation process instead of drawing a sketch or they have an idea
but cant articulate it so they put fabric to mannequin instead. This sample is also
known as dummy, drape and muslin sample.
Sew by sample: This sample reflects all of the desired construction details and is used
to solicit contract sewing bids (CM&T). It is called sew by because contractors use
this sample to create a costing or pre-production sample. Again, ideally the prototype
sample is also sew by sample. Particular care should be taken in designating a sample
as a sew-by because for better or worse, the quote will be built on this. This sample is
also known as pre-production sample, pre-pro & costing sample.
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