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Woodworking Newsletter
Vol. 9, Issue 3 - January 2015
After I finished my wall-mounted tool chest (8 x 21 x 36) a few years ago, a wise friend warned me [I]ts
one that holds disappointment in its heart. The day will certainly come when there is no more room in it for
the most recent tool.... My friend was, of course, right, and I have since been adding more storage units for
my hand tools. This chisel cabinet (5 x 12 x 27) is my latest addition and is unlikely to be my last.
Design Consideration
I wanted the new cabinet to be small enough to fit in the wall space available, but with enough room for both
chisels and basic honing supplies. I use magnets to store the rasps and files in my tool chest, and decided
to do the same with my chisels. To add some elegance to the cabinet, I chose the double-offset knife hinges
to hang the door. Finally, the cabinet is deep enough that a stand-alone chisel stand can be placed on the
bottom or top shelf when, not if, more chisels are acquired.
Some woodworkers avoid knife hinges, as there is little margin for error in their installation. Using hand
tools, Ill show how you can install knife hinges in a few steps. For in-depth coverage of knife hinges, read
The Impractical Cabinetmaker by James Krenov.
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Woodworking Newsletter
Vol. 9, Issue 3 - January 2015
Carcass Construction
The carcass is quite simple. I joined a fixed shelf to the sides and attached the cabinets sides to the top
and bottom, all using Dominos (dowels can be used instead). I first edge-jointed two boards to make the
door, and then cut all the mortises for the Dominos. The back rabbets on the sides were cut using the skew
rabbet plane.
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Woodworking Newsletter
Vol. 9, Issue 3 - January 2015
The authors favorite tool for cutting rabbets to accept both the rear panel and French cleat is the skew rabbet plane.
After drilling holes for the top shelf pins on the sides, I dry-assembled the carcass and temporarily held it
together using clamps, no glue. I cut the rear panel to size and put it aside until the final assembly.
Installing the Door Hinges
I always mount the door-hinge leaves (the ones with pivot holes) on the door first, as the layout is
straightforward. First, place the leaf centered and flush with the doors top edge, then scribe around the
hinge with a marking knife. Clamp the door in the vise with two support pieces to prevent splitting of the thin
mortise walls when chiselling. This also provides a wider base for the use of the router plane.
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Place the door hinge centered and flush with the doors
edge and scribe the hinges layout lines.
Woodworking Newsletter
Vol. 9, Issue 3 - January 2015
You can use a power router to cut the recess, but chisels
and a router plane provide unmatched precision.
Remove the bulk of the waste in the hinge recess using chisels and a router plane. Always pre-drill before
installing the leaf. I used the same procedure for installing the hinge on the doors bottom edge.
Installing the Carcass Hinges
The layout procedure for mounting the pin-hinge leaves (the ones with the pins and washers) on
the carcass is different because you need to leave a gap between the carcass and the door. The door
gap is the same as the thickness of the washer on the pin leaf. (The hinge washers I used are the same
thickness as a plastic gift card.)
With the carcass still clamped in place and starting from the fixed shelf, place the pin leaf and the plastic gift
card against the side where the door is to be hung. Scribe across the end of the hinge and the elbow, and
remove the shelf from the carcass.
Use a gift card as a shim to set the gap for scribing the opposite end of the hinge leaf.
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Woodworking Newsletter
Vol. 9, Issue 3 - January 2015
You can carefully trace the pin-hinge leaves using the marks just made as a guide, but I used a more
accurate method. It requires two wheel-marking gauges or a double-ended gauge to make two markinggauge settings. Set the first gauge equal to the distance of the front edge of the door to the installed door
hinges edge; set the second one equal to that distance plus the width of the pin-hinge leaf. Using the two
settings, scribe the mortise lines on the shelf using the marking gauge. After cutting the hinge recess with
chisels and a router plane, install the pin-hinge leaf. Repeat the same steps to install the hinge leaf on the
inner top surface.
The author supported part of the router plane with a scrap while cleaning out the hinge mortise.
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Woodworking Newsletter
Vol. 9, Issue 3 - January 2015
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