04/10/2015

EssentialFabricQualityReportsforBulkCuttingApprovalofFabrics

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EssentialFabricQualityReportsforBulk
CuttingApprovalofFabrics
Topics:qualitycontrolBy:PrasantaSarkar

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Fabricisthemainrawmaterialforgarmentmanufacturinganditinvolves6070%oftotal
garmentcost.Toensurethatonlyqualityfabricisusedingarments,factorytakesprecautionary
measuresandsetupfabricinspectiondepartmentwithqualifiedpersonnel.Standard
proceduresoffabricinspection,preparinginspectionreportfollowinginternationalornational
standardsfollowedbytoptiergarmentmanufacturershavebeenexplainedinthisarticle.

As per quality standards, prior to bulk production cutting, factory prepares following three
reportsandtakesapprovalfromauthorisedperson.

1. Fabricinspectionreport
2. Fabricshrinkagereport
3. Shadebandreportfor100%fabricrolls(applicablefordyedandprintedfabric).

Theabovethreereportsaresubmittedforapprovalswithin48hoursoffabricinhouse.According
toStandardprocedures(SOP),initiallyonly10%ofthefabricrollsisinspectedon4PointSystem.
If there is any doubt on acceptance further 10% of total fabric rolls are Inspected. Some

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manufacturespreferdoing100%fabricinspectioninordertogetensurethatonlyqualityfabric
iscutandfedtotheline.During100%inspectionfabricinspectorsmarkallthedefectssothey

EmailAddress*

canidentifythemduringspreadingandreplacethepartsaftercutting.
If fabric is cut without being inspected, complete responsibility will be on fabric quality

FirstName

inspectiondepartmentasitisaviolationofacriticalaspect.Reportsaresubmittedtobuyers&
LastName

therelevantmerchandiser.

1.FabricInspectionReport
Purpose:Todecideacceptanceorrejectionsoffabricroll(ForWoven).Fabricinspectionisdone

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using4pointsystem.Inspectionprocedurehasbeenexplainedinthefollowingtable.

Activity

Requirement

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EssentialFabricQualityReportsforBulkCuttingApprovalofFabrics

1.Selectrolls

Rolltobechosenatrandom

2.Checktherollasper4points
system.
3.Givepenaltypointsfor
defects
4.Calculateindexforeach
Points/100sq.yd.=
individualroll.
(Totalpointsinroll*36*
100)/(Totallengthinyards*
widthininches)
5.Calculatefinalaverageindex
forthetotalno.ofrolls
inspected.
6.Decideacceptanceorreject
ofthefabric

PenaltyPointEvaluation
Defectsinboththewrapandweftdirectionsforwovenandcourse/wale
directionsforknitsareassignedpointusingthefollowingcriteria:
Points
Inches()
(mm)
1Point
2Point
3Point
4Point

Defectsupto3inches
Defects>3inches<6inches
Defects>6inches<9inches
Defects>9inches

Upto75mm
Defects>75mm<150mm
Defects>150mm<230mm
Defects>230mm

Acontinuousdefectrunning9inches/230mmorlongerisassignedfour
pointsforeachmeterthatoccurswithintheshipment.Otherimportant
parameterstobeconsideredduringfabricinspectionare
i)Lengthofthefaultsistobemeasuredinthewarporweftdirectionandthedirectioninwhich
thefaultislongestisthefaultdirection.Howeverwhenthewarpandweftlengtharesameand
whenthepenaltyoftheshorterdirectionisheavier,takethefaultofthedirectioninwhichthe
penaltyisheavier.
ii)Whenthefaultinthewarpdirectionisover1yd,thepartwhichisover1ydisdeemedasfault
ofthesamekindofothers.

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iii)Whentwoormorefaultsoverlap,applyonlythefaultswhichpenaltyistheheavier.
iv)Whentherearetwoormorefaultswithinthelengthof1ydandthepenaltypointscomeover
4points,thepointsover4pointsarenotadded.
v)Theinspectorneedstobeatadistanceof3feetawayfromtheinspectiontableandthelinear
speedofinspectionnottobelessthan0.1meterspersecondwheninspectionisdoneonfabric
inspectionmachine.

StandardsforPassingFabric
Averageindexforinspectedrollsnottoexceed28points/100yd
Maximumindexforanyrollnottoexceed40points/100yd

2.Fabricshadebandreport:
Forstylesthoserequiredgarmentwashing,beforeandafterwashblanketsissubmitted(3sets
each)coveringallrollsanditisattachedintheshadecontinuitycard.

A100%shadebandcoveringallrolls&allcolorspertainingtoacertainstyle/
ConsignmentismadeandgetapprovedpriortocuttingofbulkFabric.
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ShadebandpreparationProcess
Nosoonerthefabricisinhoused,thequalitydepartmentcollects
fabricpanelsrepresentingallrollswithin6hoursfromstore.
Cut6inchesfromendofeachroll.Joinallpanelsbycoverstitchin
correctgrainlinedirectiontobeinablanketform.
Ifthestyleisanonwashprogramtwosetsisprepared.
Ifthestyleconsistsofacertainwash,then4blanketsisprepared
2blanketsnonwashedand2blanketswiththeexactapproved
washofthestyle.
Oncetheshadebandsareready,dyelotorcolorsegregationis
done.IftheShadeBandconsistsof23differentshades,such
shadesshouldbesegregatedintofamiliesmarkedA,B,CEtc.A
copyofthesegregationofshadesishandedovertothestore,
cuttingroom,merchandisingandproductiondepartments.Stores
willissueandcuttingandproductiondepartmentwillproceedas
perthesegregatedshadeswithoutgettingmixed.

3.Fabricshrinkagereport:
A100%Shrinkagereportissubmittedforallstylesandthewashingshrinkagehastobe
performedasperthewashtyperequiredforthebulk.
Garmentfitisaveryimportantfactorinthepurchasedecisionofthecustomer.Misfitatany
stageofthelifeofgarmentcanleadtoprematurerejectionandearnabadperceptionforthe
brand.Agarmentissupposedtobewashedaftereveryuseandexpectedtoretainthesamefit
andappearanceduringthelifetimeofthegarment.Tofulfillthisfabrichastobetestedfor
dimensionalstability.Forthisshrinkagetestsarecarriedoutisordertomanipulatethepatterns
inthesameratiotoavoidanymeasurementproblemsaftergarmentwashing.
ShrinkageTemplates(25cm*25cmor50cm*50cm)areusedinindustrytogaugetheshrinkage%
directly.

FabricShrinkagemeasurementtemplate

FeaturesofShrinkageTemplateandScale:
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EssentialFabricQualityReportsforBulkCuttingApprovalofFabrics

Todeterminedirectlythe%dimensionalchange(shrinkage)inall
typesoffabrics.
FinecalibratedShrinkageTemplatewith25cmx25cm"&50cm"x
50cm"benchmarkslengthwise&widthwise.
CalibratedscaletoevaluateshrinkageandstretchdirectlyUpto
15%.
Twofinetippedblackandyellowfabricmarkersareusedfor
accuratemarkingonlightanddarkcolourfabrics.

HowShrinkageTemplateandScaleworks?

Themarkingtemplateshouldbeplacedonthespecimentobe
tested,makingsurethatthefabricisinflatpositionbefore
marking.
Holdthetemplatefirm,andcarefullymarkthefabricthroughthe
eightslotsofthetemplate,toensurethatitdoesnotmove.
NowputthefabricinthewashingmachineorDryCleaning.
Drythesampleasperspecifiedmethod.ItcaneitherbeLineDry
orFlatDryorTumbleDry.
TofindthedimensionalchangereadtheShrinkage/Stretchon3
pointsontheWrapsideand3pointsonWeftSide.
Getthemeanvalueofwrapwiseandweftwisereadingstoget
theAccurateShrinkageorStretch.

Ifyoudonthaveashrinkagetemplatethenyoucancalculatetheshrinkageor
gainasdirectedinEquations1and2bymarkingfabricwithhelpofasimplescale.

Fabricshrinkagetestingsamples

1.S=[(AB)/A]x100
2.G=[(BA)/A]x100
Where:
A=distancebetweengaugemarksbeforewetout,10inches(254mm)
B=distancebetweengaugemarksafterwetoutanddrying
G=%gain(Inreportingthegain,thepercentchangeshallhavetheprefix"+"
S=%shrinkage
AbouttheAuthor
Ashish Kumar Gupta is a Master of Fashion Technology from National
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EssentialFabricQualityReportsforBulkCuttingApprovalofFabrics

InstituteofFashionTechnology,NewDelhiandheholdsaBachelorsdegree
in Textile Technology. He was associated with Madura Exports as Assistant
QualityManagerfortwoandhalfyears.AtpresentheisworkingwithLovely
ProfessionalUniversityasanAssistantProfessor.

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PrasantaSarkarisagarmentindustryexpertand
founderofOnlineClothingStudy,apopularandmuch
lovedbloginthegarmentindustry.Heistheauthorof
twobooksincludingthelatestone"Garment
Manufacturing:Processes,PracticesandTechnology".
Heisworkinginthegarmentindustrysince2006.He
helpsgarmentbusinessestogrow.Email:
prasanta@onlineclothingstudy.com

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17Comments

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Addacomment...

SahabuddinMohammedThaheenQualityAssuranceInspectoratLi&Fung
easyhelp
LikeReplyJun5,201511:55am

CupidCreations
greatstuff!
LikeReplyApr13,20159:53am

KelumPrabhathChandrasiriStoresAssistantatTimex
Thanksyou.
LikeReplyFeb16,20159:25pm

OnlineClothingStudyWorksatOnlineClothingStudy
Youaremostwelcome.
LikeReplyFeb18,20155:23pm

BalalHossainFactoryManageratPackraftMyanmarCo.,Ltd
Itsaveryhelpfulinformationforme...ThankYou.
LikeReplyFeb9,20154:34am

NazmulImonAssistantManager(TechnicalCompliance)atAsianGroupof
Chittagong
Howtocalculate9pointsystem?
LikeReplyDec23,20146:09am

AbbasAlawadWorksatSsmo
thankyou
LikeReplyDec20,20142:26am

AbbasAlawadWorksatSsmo
canweuse4pointsystemtoevaluatefabricmadefromcotton&polyster
LikeReplyDec8,201412:04pm

OnlineClothingStudyWorksatOnlineClothingStudy
Yesyoucan.forpolyesterfabricyouneedsetdifferentacceptablelevel
lesspointper100sq.yd.
LikeReplyDec9,20147:51am

WgpKumaraWorksatDsllanka(pvt)ltd
Thankyou
LikeReplyNov18,20146:56am

SwatiPanchalConsultantatSadhnaAWomen'sHandicraftEnterprise
Ihaveaquery,whatshouldbethesizeofroll??anysize??andthenfollowthe
formulaof36*100dividebyfabriclength*width
LikeReplyNov6,20142:56am

DharmendraPandeyManagerandoperationatR.S.ABuyingHouse
Verybestwaytomakeunderstand....thanks
LikeReplySep14,201410:33pm

OnlineClothingStudyWorksatOnlineClothingStudy
YouarewelcomeDharmendra.ThanksforreadingOCSarticles.
LikeReplySep15,20146:38am

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