International Journal of Textile

and Fashion Technology (IJTFT)

ISSN(P): 2250-2378; ISSN(E): 2319-4510
Vol. 5, Issue 3, Jun 2015, 7-14
TJPRC Pvt. Ltd.

A COMPREHENSIVE STUDY OF ENGINEERING STRIPE DESIGN ON

AUTO STRIPER SINGLE JERSEY KNITTING MACHINE PRODUCTION
MD. EANAMUL HAQUE NIZAM1, MD. ARAFAT HOSSAIN2 &
JOY KRISHNA SAHA3
1
2
3

Department of Textile Engineering, AITVET OF AUST, Tejgoan, Dhaka, Bangladesh

Lecturer, Department of Textile Engineering, BGMEA University of Fashion and Technology, Dhaka, Bangladesh

Department of Textile Engineering, Mawlana Bhashani Science & Technology University, Santosh, Tangail, Bangladesh

ABSTRACT
This paper summarizes the whole information about Engineering stripe design. Feeder stripe is used for limited
design, on the other hand Engineering stripe is used for unlimited design. The authors were specially worked on 4 fingers,
5 fingers & 6 fingers Auto or Engineering striper machine. The main aim of this work was to calculate the maximum no. of
courses per repeat can be produced on 4, 5 and 6 finger engineering stripe machine. Nowadays, the Engineering stripe has
been used more frequently than the feeder stripe for big repeat. This paper is an attempt to understand about feeder and
Engineering stripe mechanism. Most of the important information is collected from industry. Finally, The work revealed
that the limitation of 4 finger & 5 finger and 6 finger engineering stripe machine

KEYWORDS: Feeder Stripe, Engineering Stripe, Finger, Repeat, Sensor, Apaser Etc
INTRODUCTION
The majority of knit fabrics are Manu factured on circular weft knitting machines.According to the stripe design,
there are two types of circular weft knitting machine like feeder stripe and engineering stripe machine Generally, the
horizontal colored stripe designs are produced in those types of machine.The feeder stripe designs are knitted on general
circular knitting machine [13]
But, engineering stripe design are produced on special type of circular knitting machine named as auto stripe and
engineering stripe machine.The single jersey circular knitting machine has a difference from auto stripe single jersey
knitting machine. In feeder stripe, we can use a limited stripe or courses, But in engineering stripe, we can use unlimited
stripe or courses When the size of the repeat of the stripe we need is bigger than 2 inch it is beyond what the feeder stripe
method can do and we will have to use Engineering stripe method to make this fabric, In this engineering stripe method,
the machine is set to change threads at certain time to form a big repeat. The price of engineered stripe fabrics is
substantially higher. [2] [10] Sometimes, it is possible to produce more than 2 bigger stripe in feeder stripe machine when
we use coarse count yarn, big stitch length and big diameter machine.To produce engineering stripe fabrics 4 to 6 colored
yarns are fitted in a single feeder with the help of four to six striper or finger. Fabrics decorated with four to six colors with
unlimited range of striping width can be produced [6] The stripe single jersey knitted fabric production is less than the grey
knitted fabric production. Because, in stripe knitted fabric is produced by colored yarn.The strength of grey yarn is more
than colored yarn. The colored yarn is less strong. Because when different type of treatment are applied on the grey yarn,

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Md. Eanamul Haque Nizam, Md. Arafat Hossain & Joy Krishna Saha

the strength of coloured yarn will be reduced.So, the possibility of breakage of yarn will increase.For these reason more
stop motion is used in engineering stripe machine for identifying the breakage of yarn.
From the general knitting machine, engineering stripe knitting machine is different.There are some special
machine tools is used for producing stripe knitted fabrics.In engineering stripe single jersey knitting machine, there are four
side creel arrangement [1] Every creel carry different type colored yarn package.Here, more than 2 sensor is used to
identify the yarn breakage at different stages. The striping finger mechanism is responsible for producing engineering
stripe fabric. There are different no. of striping finger present in engineering stripe knitting machine. [8] They are 4 finger,
5 finger and 6 finger against each feeder. Selection of each striping finger is effected from a programmable microcomputer
in which the design information is fed in solenoids above each striping finger are used to transmit striping instruction in
accordance with the program. It has an individual trapping and cutting of yarn at each finger. [1] There are some repeat
which can be produced in 6 finger machine but it is not possible in 4 or 5 finger machine. Recently, 7& 8 finger machine is
also found. For producing engineering stripe knitted fabric, finger is an essential part. The working process of finger is
very simple.The finger work with the help of Apaser/ Equator. The apaser has 4 to 6 ghat for four to six finger machine.
The finger will get motion with the help of apaser. The yarn is selected with the help of finger motion. The apaser is
situated on the upper of finger. For six finger machine, the 5 ghat beat the 5 pin of finger as a result the 5 fingers will
disable, only one finger will active. This one finger will take the selected thread. According to the program and
predetermined courses will be formed. Thus another predetermined course will form. The figure of finger and apaser are
given below:

Figure 1: 6 Finger [13] [11]

Figure 2: Apaser [13]

Feeders are the yarn guide placed close to the needles to the full circumference of the knitting zone. The feeder
Impact Factor (JCC): 3.3497

Index Copernicus Value (ICV): 3.0

A Comprehensive Study of Engineering Stripe Design on

Auto Striper Single Jersey Knitting Machine Production

feed the yarn into the needle hooks and control the needle latches in their open position while the needle attain their
clearing position They consist of a yarn guiding hole and a bevel edge to guard the latches of the approaching needles.
They are slightly curved to the corresponding curvature of the needle bed. Feeders may have to hole for the purpose of
plating. The feeder can be adjusted to set their distance from the needle and to ensure yarn feed into needle hooks.[1] Two
or more yarns individually fed to the finger at the same feeder. They can be considered as moving guide replacing the holes
of fixed guide. In a two color striper, two different colored yarns are supplied by two stripper fingers and their engagement
is controlled by an endless control chain which governs the guide change at the appropriate feeds. At each revolution, a
counter may select the movement of all the striper chain. The stripers are used on both single and double bed machines.[1]
In knitting sector, there are 2 types of design. First one is Feeder stripe. This design is limited. In Bangladesh, the 48 inch
diameter feeder stripe machine is possible. So the total feeders are 192 possible. So, if the yarn count is 30s, stitch length is
2.60, Course/cm is 20. So,
192/20 = 9.6 cm = 3.77 inch is possible.
So, we can define the feeder stripe, if the course is less than 3.77 inch called feeder stripe. If the course is more
than 3.77 inch called engineering stripe. In feeder stripe, to produce big repeat is not possible. By calculating the color of
thread this design is produced. Here, the yarn guide is indicated by alphabetical order .[2]
Table 1: The Yarn Guide Numbering (Source: Mondol Knitwear Ltd.)
A
C
E
B
D
F
(Source: Imran Mahamud, PE, Mondol knitwear ltd)

MATERIALS & METHODS

Materials
Table 2: Machine Specification of Single Jersey Engineering Stripe Knitting Machine: (Pailung)
Brand Name
Country of Origin
Diameter of the
machine
No.of Feeder
Machine Gauge

Pailung
Taiwan
30
48F
48 G

Table 3: Machine Specification of Single Jersey Engineering Stripe Knitting Machine: (Mayer & Cie)
Brand Name
Country of Origin
Diameter of the machine
No. of Feeder
Machine Gauge

Mayer & Cie

Germany
30 inch
48F
24 G

METHODS
For Engineering stripe knitting machine, if we want to set up a new program, we have to follow the following
procedure,
At first, we have to press the cross (X). If we want to delete the previous program, Press DL. Because the program
has 2 number file.We have to press DEF, then the new program file is entered in to the machine program and press
ENTER. First repeat of this design has completed. If we want to set more repeat then press ENTER in two times.

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Md. Eanamul Haque Nizam, Md. Arafat Hossain & Joy Krishna Saha

Then DEF, have to Press ENTER after knit & press ENTER in two times. After entering the repeat the folder have to save.
As a result the finger will work according to the program. For the production of knitted fabrics with colored stripes in
circular knitting machines can be equipped with a striper device for up to 8 colors at each knitting feeder. [9]
The yarn changer device control may be two type: they are: [7]
Yarn Changer Device with Mechanical Control
The stripers are centrally controlled either

By a chain switch apparatus and rotating switch cams, or

With the help of an electrical pre-selection and a mechanical rotary switch.

Yarn change occurs in different switching stages of the yarn finger for laying-in yarn and laying-out.

Yarn Changer Device with Electronically Control

The equipment mainly consists of the electronic control unit and the stripers. The electronic control unit contains
the programmed pattern information of a striped pattern. This is the unit through a rotary code transmitter synchronous to
the machine movement and passed on to the magnets of the yarn change fingers in the stripers. [3]

RESULTS & DISCUSSIONS

Case Study: (1)
Stripe produced in four finger Engineering striper machine having 30 inch diameter machine with 48 feeders
Table 4
S. No
01
02
03
04
05
06

Color
Neo
Black
America
Black
G.Blue
Black

No. of Courses
30
30
30
30
30
30

07

Silver

30

08
Total

Black
Eight

30
240

Sequence
1-30
31-48, 1-12
13-42
43-48,1-24
25-48, 1-6
07-36
37-48
1-12
13-18
19-48

Finger
A
B
C
B
D
B
A(12)
C(12)
D(6)
B

Here total individual colour is five, black colour used in four times. As a result total no. of courses is 240 which is
exceeds 192 courses (48x4) in four finger machines. But when we use in different eight colour and more than eight colour,
total no. of courses will not be exceed 192 courses.
Table 5
S.N

Color

01
02
03
04

Neo
Black
America
N.Blue

Impact Factor (JCC): 3.3497

No. of
Sequence
Course
30
1-30
30
31-48,1-12
30
13-42
30
43-48,1-24
Table 5: Contd.,

Finger No
A
B
C
D

Index Copernicus Value (ICV): 3.0

11

A Comprehensive Study of Engineering Stripe Design on

Auto Striper Single Jersey Knitting Machine Production

05

G.Bue

30

07

Brown

30

08
Total

Silver
Eight

12
192

25-42(18C)
43-48,1-6(12C)
7-12(6C)
13-30(18C)
31-36(6C)
37-48(12C)

D
C
C
B
A
A

Here, in four finger striper machine, we can use more color when the no of courses are limited. In this study, we
can produce more colored striper design by reducing the no. of courses in single colour. If we want to create a big courses
repeat in more than four colour, it is not possible in four finger Engineering striper machine. Such as:
Table 6
S. No

Color

O1
O2

White
Blue

No. of
Courses
96
96

O3

Navy

96

O4

Yellow

96

Total

Four
color

384

Sequence
1-48,1-48
1-48,1-48
1-48, 148
1-48, 148

Finger
No.
A
B
C
D

Here four color ie; white, blue, navy and yellow are used. Four finger machines contains only four fingers per
feeder like A, B, C, D. In this case no. of courses will also be increased as per wish against four colour only. For this
reason above example each colour contains 96 courses. The total course is 384. Generally, our machines contain 48
feeders. The feeder no. is equivalent to the no. Of cam box. Every feeder contains four fingers. Where, machine will run
one (01) time then produce 48 courses. So, we can see that total repeat complete in 8 revolution.
(384/48 = 8 Revolution)
if we add a new color such as Red, it will be not possible to produce in four finger machine. So we have to
produce this repeat in 5 finger machine.
Case study :( 2)
Produce 5 color Engineering striper machine.
Table 7
S. No

Color

O1
O2
O3
O4
O5
Total

White
Blue
Navy
Yellow
Red
Five Colour

No. of
Courses
96
96
96
96
96
480

Sequence
1-48,1-48
1-48,1-48
1-48, 1-48
1-48, 1-48
1-48, 1-48

Finger No.
A
B
C
D
E

Each stripe contain different courses. The total course is 480, generally our machine contain 5 finger.When
machine revolute one times then produce 48 course.

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Md. Eanamul Haque Nizam, Md. Arafat Hossain & Joy Krishna Saha

We see, 480/48 = 10 revolution

So, we can see that total repeat complete in 10 revolution.[Authors]
Here, if we want to add another color then it is not possible to complete this repeat when use more than 48 courses
per colour. For this reason, we have to produce this repeat in 6 finger Engineering stripe machine. In five finger machine
we can use more color when the no of courses are limited Such as:
Table 8
S.N

Color

No. of
Course
30
30
30
30
30

01
02
03
04
05

Neo
Black
America
N.Blue
G.Bue

06

Brown

30

07

Silver

30

08

white

30

Total

Eight
Colour

Sequence
1-30
31-48,1-12
13-42
43-48,1-24
25-48,1-6
7-24(18course)
25-30(6C)
31-36(6C)
37-48(12C)
1-12(12C)
13-18(6C)
19-24(6C)
25-42(18C)
43-48(6C)

Finger No
A
B
C
D
E
E
B
A
A
C
B
B
D
C

240

When we use more than five different colour the total no. of courses will be 240. But any colour use more than 48
courses then total no. of courses exceeds the 240 courses. Such as
Table 9
S.NO
01
02
03
04
05
06
07
08

Color
Neo
Black
America
Black
G.Blue
Black
White
Black

No. of Courses
30
30
30
30
30
30
30
30

09

Silver

30

10

Brown

18

11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
Total

Black
Green
Black
Yellow
Black
Grey
Black
Red
Eight

30
6
30
6
30
6
30
6
432

Impact Factor (JCC): 3.3497

Sequence
1-30
31-48, 1-12
13-42
43-48,1-24
25-48, 1-6
07-36
37-48, 1-18
19-48
1-12
13-18
19-30
31-48
1-30
31-36
37-48, 1-18
19-24
25-48, 1-6
7-12
13-42
43-48

Finger
A
B
C
B
D
B
E
B
C(12C)
D(6C)
E(12C)
A(18C)
B
E(6C)
B
D(6C)
B
D(6C)
B
C(6C)

Index Copernicus Value (ICV): 3.0

13

A Comprehensive Study of Engineering Stripe Design on

Auto Striper Single Jersey Knitting Machine Production

Here eleven individual colour are used but black colour used eight times(30x8=240courses). As a result
(240-48=192) one hundred ninety two black colour courses are excess used in five finger Engineering stripe machine.

CONCLUSIONS
Four, five and six finger machine means each feeder contains four, five and six finger respectively and each
machine contains 48 feeders. In four, five and six finger machine four, five and six colours stripe designs can be produced
as long course as possible. But this analysis use more different colours ie; eight, ten, twelve and so on then you cannot be
exceeds 192(48x4) courses per repeat for four finger machine, 240(48x5) courses for five finger machine and 288(48x6)
courses for six finger machine . The work also revealed that any colour use more than 48 courses per repeat then exceeds
192 courses for four finger, 240 for five finger machine and show similar effect on other finger machine .

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2.

CONWAY LIU (2009),How to be a smarter Garment Merchandiser, p.112-113.

3.

Iyer Mammel Schach (Second Edition), Circular Knitting, p.126-128.

4.

David J. Spencer (Third Edition), Knitting Technology, p.100-102

5.

Tozer, Jane and Sarah Levitt, Fabric of Society: A Century of People and Their Clothes 1770-1870, Laura Ashley
Press, ISBN 0-9508913-0-4

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"Interior Fabrics - Hainsworth Gems - About". Hainsworth. July 31, 2013. Retrieved October 19, 2013.

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Threads of Life | http://www.threadsoflife.com | Code # T.BL.SD.055

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Knitting fundamentals, machines, structures and developments. (2003). England.

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