PRIMARY SOURCES

ARTICLES

Garden, Mary. "Why I Bobbed My Hair." Pictorial Review Apr. 1927: 8. American

Social History Project / Center for Media and Learning. George Mason University. Web.

27 Apr. 2010. <http://historymatters.gmu.edu/d/5117/>.

This is an article written by singer Mary Garden for Pictorial Review, a popular women’s

magazine in the 1920’s. She describes how bobbed hair frees women, and how she wishes

to embody “the new woman”. We used this and Mary Pickford’s opposing article to

understand the freedoms and social placing women enjoyed or did not enjoy in the 1920’s

and the flapper age.

Pickford, Mary. "Why I Have Not Bobbed Mine." Pictorial Review Apr. 1927: 9.

American Social History Project / Center for Media and Learning. George Mason

University. Web. 27 Apr. 2010. <http://historymatters.gmu.edu/d/5117/>.

In this excerpt from a popular women’s magazine, film star Mary Pickford defends her

decision not to sheer her locks, claiming that she is doing it for her fans. Pickford admits

that though she may seem to be a slave to society and its expectations, she is willing. This

article was part of a debate over the short hair trend of the 1920’s, and the social

implications of cutting off or keeping hair. We used this in our time period page and our

feminism pages to show the changing ways of women. We read and analyzed both the pro

and con articles, in order to see both perspectives of the flapper ways and new woman’s

status.

BOOKS

Haedrich, Marcel. Coco Chanel; her life, her secrets. . 1st ed. Boston, MA: Little Brown,

1972. Print.

Another biographical look at Chanel’s life, this book further added to our research. This

particular book was written the year after Coco Chanel died, but the French author saw

first hand the impact of the legendary designer. Again, we used this to confirm our views
 on Chanel as a woman, and how her personal life played a role in the independent woman

we see her as.

Kirkland, Douglas. Coco Chanel : three weeks 1962. 1st ed. New York: Glitterati, 2008.

Print.

Douglas Kirkland is a prominent photographer who has photographed Marilyn Monroe,

Elizabeth Taylor, Angelina Jolie and many more. He began his career at Look Magazine

and in 1962, at the ripe age of 24, he was sent to Paris, France to photograph Coco Chanel

for two weeks. He stayed for three, and published this book with the photos he took of

her, many of them quite personal. We read this book, and contacted him to request an

interview regarding his experience with the legendary designer. The book itself was useful

for us to see into Coco Chanel as a woman, the photos and captions describing her

independent manner. We also used a few of these photos in the website itself, on the

Supplements page.

Koda, Harold. Chanel. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art New York, 2005. Print.

This book of Chanel designs and designs by others show the revolutionary work of Coco

Chanel. We were able to visually see the impact Chanel had on fashion, and her unique

silhouettes.

Mee, Sue. 1900-20 Linen & Lace (20th Century Fashion). Grand Rapids: Gareth Stevens,

2000. Print.

A direct reprint of a catalogue book of the popular fashions right before Coco Chanel

entered the frame. This book actually has forms to fill that had been for women to order

the patterns they desired. We used this to help us establish a view of the clothing

immediately before Chanel’s magnificent innovations.

Tyrrell, Anne V. Changing Trends in Fashion Patterns of the 20th Century 1900-1970.

London: Drama Pub, 1986. Print.

This book has a large collection of shapes and silhouettes of the 20th century. As the

pages moved on, the easier it is to see the change in fashion through time. We utilized this

to understand the corset shape of the earlier years, and the looser, freer patterns of the

latter ones, thanks in large part to the work of Coco Chanel.

IMAGES

"Before Chanel and After Coco's Life - Audrey Tautou - Zimbio." Zimbio - Interactive

Magazine. Web. 27 Mar. 2010.

<http://www.zimbio.com/Audrey+Tautou/articles/46/Before+Chanel+After+Coco+Life

>.

This source provided a picture with Chanel inside her apartment on Rue Cambon in

Paris. We placed the image into the photo gallery. Zimbio is an online magazine, venture

backed by Menlo Ventures and Draper Richards.

Brown, Carol Mary, and Sydonie Bénet. "Chanel, Gabrielle 'Coco'." Contemporary

Fashion. Ed. Taryn Benbow-Pfalzgraf. 2nd ed. Detroit: St. James Press, 2002. 123-126.

Fashion & Costume Reference Collection. Web. 20 Mar. 2010.

This is a picture of model Marlene Dietrich as she wears a classic Chanel pant suit in

1933. It shows the epitome of a modern woman in the early 20th century; short hair and

masculine clothing.

Coco Chanel. Fashion Encyclopedia. Web. 20 Jan. 2010.

<http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/images/sjcf_01_img0074.jpg>.

This image is used within our website as a portrayal of Chanel's everlasting style. She

wears a decadent layer of pearls, as well as her signature boxy silhouette.

Crick/Metropolitan Museum of Art, Jessa. "Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel (18831971) and the

House of Chanel | Thematic Essay | Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History | The

Metropolitan Museum of Art." The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York:

metmuseum.org. Web. 30 Jan. 2010.

<http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/chnl/hd_chnl.htm>.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute wrote an essay of Chanel. This

allowed us to have insight on Chanel's designs from an artistic and historical view. The

online exhibit also included many pictures of her designs, which are featured within our
 website. The Metropolitan Museum of Art is an excellent source by providing us with a

good historical and artistic context for Chanel’s innovations.

"Gallery - Chanel News - Fashion News and behind the Scenes Features." Chanel News

Fashion News and behind the Scenes Features. Web. 27 Mar. 2010. <http://www.chanel-

news.com/en/wp-content/themes/chanel-news/gallery.php?id=74#undefined>.

This source provided us with many photos, taken by Douglas Kirkland, of Chanel within

her apartment. We utilized the images in our photo gallery. This website is created by

Karl Lagerfeld in remembrance of Chanel and her life. It includes many images of

Chanel’s furniture in the Ritz apartment.

Kirkland, Douglas. Chanel Storefront. 1962. Photograph. Paris. Coco Chanel: Three

Weeks 1962. 1st ed. New York: Glitterati, 2008. Print.

One of the photos found in Coco Chanel Three Weeks 1962, this is a photo taken of the

Chanel storefront. We utilized this to show how far Coco Chanel has come.

Miss Camille Clifford. NLA. Web. 30 Jan. 2010. http://nla.gov.au/nla.pic-

an10714209-3-v>.

The source provided another picture of Miss Clifford to reiterate the traditional 20th

century silhouette. This picture was used within the "Design Work" webpage to directly

contrast the difference in fashion after Chanel revolutionized the female shape. The

website is sponsored by the National Library of Australia, which has an excellent source

of images documenting the Gibson girl period.

Suffragists. National Archives UK. Web. 11 Jan. 2010.

<http://www.nationalarchives.gov.uk/education/britain1906to1918/g4/cs3/images/g4cs

3s1.gif>.

The suffragist women of the 20th century were activists advocating for women's rights.

This picture was used in the "Time Period" page so the viewer can acknowledge the

prominence of the feminist movement. The website is sponsored by a government based,

national archive of the United Kingdom.

The Ideal Gibson Girl: Camille Clifford. Rain reflections. Web. 30 Jan. 2010.
 <http://rainreflections.files.wordpress.com/2009/06/camille-clifford.jpg>.

Camille Clifford was the epitome of an ideal Gibson Girl. Gibson Girls were known for

their corseted waistlines, and busty silhouettes. These shapes were constricting to women

and Chanel completely defies these ideals. Written by Chris Pearson, the site extensively

explores women throughout history and the fashions that evolved in conjunction with

their development.

Tranchees. Ambafrance. Web. 11 Jan. 2010.

<http://www.ambafrance-uk.org/IMG/jpg_tranchees.jpg>.

During World War II, trenches were dug for the soldiers. This image was used in

the "Time Period" web page to illustrate the war-filled time in which Chanel

resided. This website is the online database for the French Embassy in the United

Kingdom.

INTERVIEWS

Kirkland, Douglas. "Three Weeks with Coco Chanel." Telephone interview. Oct. 2009.

Douglas Kirkland is a famed photographer, notable for his photos of Coco Chanel,

Marilyn Monroe, Angelina Jolie, Elizabeth Taylor, and a slew of other famous subjects.

After reading his book chronicling his time spent with the legendary designer in 1962, we

contacted him to request an interview. To our humble surprise, he agreed. We asked him

about his opinions on Chanel and her influence on him. This interview became invaluable

to our research, as a statement he said about Chanel’s confident nature and insistence on

being called “Mademoiselle”, a name for young unmarried women, instead of “Madame”

showed us exactly the type of independent and strong woman she was, that would

become the center of our thesis. We are very lucky to have acquired this interview with

him, as his statements define exactly our thesis on Coco Chanel’s impact as an innovator,

of fashion and more.

TELEVISION RECORDING

Chanel, Coco, dir. CHANEL: Défilé De La Collection 1959. Paris, 1959. INA. Institut

National De L'Audiovisuel, 13 Jan. 2007. Web. 30 Apr. 2010.

<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sutlG32fnrU>.

This video of the 1959 Chanel collection aired on French television. We took it from the

French National Audiovisual Institute’s archives. Clips from this show are used in the

Gallery/Multimedia page.

SECONDARY SOURCES

ARTICLES

Crick/Metropolitan Museum of Art, Jessa. "Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel (18831971) and the

House of Chanel | Thematic Essay | Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History | The

Metropolitan Museum of Art." The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York:

metmuseum.org. Web. 30 Jan. 2010.

<http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/chnl/hd_chnl.htm>.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute wrote an essay of Chanel. This

allowed us to have insight on Chanel's designs from an artistic and historical view. As

mentioned before, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York documents important

artistic dates in history, and includes Chanel’s designs as one of the landmarks in

women’s history for her innovative designs.

Ferla, Ruth La. "The Mother of Reinvention." New York Times. 24 Sep. 2009: E1.

eLibrary. Web. 20 Mar. 2010.

This source provided us with an extensive amount of quotes from professors, directors,

and authors about Chanel and her innovations as a feminist.

Sischy, Ingrid. "Time 100: The Most Important People of the Century." TIME

Magazine 8 June 1998. Web. Oct. 2009. <

http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,988494,00.html >.
 Time magazine is a well-renown publication that comments on society and modern

events. This article was one of the first things we read in our research, when considering

what we would choose as our innovator or innovation. This magazine listed and wrote

articles on one hundred people that defined the 20th century. Coco Chanel was the only

person in the field of fashion who was honored. Sischy’s article on her describes Chanel as

a pioneer in her work, ahead of her time. The article also claims that her work is

“unquestionably part of the liberation of women”. We were moved deeply by this article

and were compelled to focus our thesis on not only the technical aspects of her

innovation, but the more meaningful discussion of Coco Chanel as somebody who

changed the way women look at themselves.

Stephanie Green, The Washington Times. "Inventing Modern Women; Film traces

How Chanel Updated Feminine Ideal." Washington Times. 14 Oct. 2009: B01. eLibrary.

Web. 20 Mar. 2010.

This source provided us with many quotes from Catherine Leterrier and Ms. de Clermont

about Chanel's innovations in feminism. These quotes are featured in the "Feminist" and

"Design" pages.

"The Modern Woman." TIME Magazine 2009. Print.

This issue of Time magazine focused on the state of the modern woman today. How far

she has come from the tradition of the early and even middle 20th century. The progress

of womankind is extraordinary, and this issue describes how women have fought for and

won independence, and how that is reflected today. We utilized this article to inform

ourselves of the attitude of the current woman, and how that compares and contrasts with

that of women less than one hundred years ago. From reading this article, we were armed

with information for us to write a section on how women have changed, and how Coco

Chanel played a part in freeing women from the constraints and traditions of the

patriarchal society. This article was essential to our knowledge and understanding of

women and the changes that have occurred.

Welter, Barbara. "The Cult of True Womanhood: 1820-1860." American Quarterly 18.2

(1966): 151-74. Print.

 As part of our reading and studying of 19th century literature for our humanities class, we

were required to read this influential essay. Barbara Welter breaks down the expectations

and views of women before Chanel’s time. From this, we gained perspective into the

constraining lifestyles of women in the 1800’s. After reading this, we were even more

compelled to focus our topic on Chanel’s impact on women through her fashion and

attitude toward life. This was useful for us to distinguish the differences between women

before Chanel, and women as and after the legendary designer made her mark on the

world.

BOOKS

Angeletti, Norberto, and Alberto Oliva. In Vogue: the Illustrated History of the World's

Most Famous Fashion Magazine. New York: Rizzoli, 2006. Print.

This source takes a look at the contributions of Chanel from both a fashion and cultural

point of view. It includes many excerpts from past Vogue issues, which were used

throughout our website.

Bobek, Milan. 1920s Decades of the 20th Century. Prescott, AZ: Eldorado Ink, 2005.

Print.

Book with vivid photographs and clear descriptions of major events in the 1920s. This

was helpful in order to understand the time period Coco Chanel lived in, providing a large

spectrum of crucial moments in that decade, including the changing status of womens

rights in Europe.

Charles-Roux, Edmonde. Chanel and Her World. New York: Vendome, 2005. Print.

An extensive and lengthy biography of the legendary designer, this book was essential

towards our basic research on the life and background of our project’s subject.

Cosgrave, Bronwyn. The Complete History of Costume and Fashion: From Ancient

Egypt to the Present Day. New York: Checkmark Books, 2000.

 A thorough textbook reference on fashion throughout the ages. We used this to see how

women’s fashion evolved in relation to time period, and how Chanel’s designs were

radically different from the clothing before her influence.

Darnell, Paula Jean. Victorian to Vamp Women's Clothing 1900-1929. Fabric Fancies,

2000. Print.

This book described the transition of clothing in the early 20th century, marking the end

of the Edwardian period and the beginning of new fashion. We used this to aid our

research in the fashions of Chanel’s early career, as she began her business toward the

end of this time.

Gourley, Catherine. Gibson girls and Suffragists: Perceptions of Women from the Turn of

the Century through 1918. Minneapolis, MN: Twenty-First Century, 2008. Print.

This book describes the iconic women of the turn of the 20th century. The clothing of the

Gibson Girls can be directly contrasted with what Coco Chanel created just years later.

The information on the Suffragists was also important to our research on women, and the

movement for freedom, that although Chanel did not state she had any affiliation with,

she ultimately supported through her innovation in fashion. This book gave us the

information we needed to support our perception of Chanel as a revolutionary and strong

woman of her day.

Gourley, Catherine. Flappers and the New American Woman Perceptions of Women

from 1918 Through the 1920s (Images and Issues of Women in the Twentieth

Century). New York: Twenty-First Century (CT), 2007. Print.

This book continues where Gibson Girls left off. Although the New American Woman is

indeed American and not French like Chanel, the change in America is mirrored across

the Western world. This book investigates the groundbreaking women of the time,

providing us insight in the change that was happening to women. The rebellious and

independent nature of the new woman is a clue to our claim that Chanel’s fashion was a

catalyst of feminism. Coco Chanel opened her shop right during this time of radical

change, unlikely to be just a coincidence, and material for our thesis.

Kennedy, David M., Lizabeth Cohen, and Thomas Andrew Bailey. The American
 Pageant: a History of the Republic. 13th ed. Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 2006. Print.

Although this textbook is an Advanced Placement American History book, it covered the

major events worldwide as well, and we utilized it for the historical context portion of our

website, using it to learn about the world wars and other significant movements in the

late 19th and early 20th century.

Kleiner, Fred S., and Christin J. Mamiya. Gardner's Art through the Ages A Concise

History. 1st ed. Belmont: Wadsworth, 2006. Print.

This large book is one of the most respected college level art history textbooks. As

students enrolled in a serious art class for the past 5 years, we actively read this book to

gain insight into art history and the progression of society as art changes. By reading this

book, we are able to see the connections between art and history. As history and people’s

views on the world shift, so does art. Subconsciously, the reading of this book helped a lot

in creating our thesis, which claims the correlation between an artist’s contributions in

the art and fashion world to history. Also, we read a chapter on the early 1900s that

proved crucial to our understanding of the historical context and movements in art of the

time, and supplied much of our knowledge on the wars and critical events of Chanel’s era.

Madsen, Axel. Chanel: A Woman of Her Own. New York: Henry Holt, 1990.

A biography of Coco Chanel, split into four parts; childhood, early business, decline, and

comeback. This book was helpful especially in our understanding of Chanel’s

relationships with Igor Stravinsky and the Duke of Westminster, and how World War II

affected Chanel and fashion.

Steele, Valerie. The Corset: A Cultural History. New Haven, CT: Yale University Press,

2001.

This book by the chief curator of the Fashion Institute of Technology analyzes the cultural

significance of the corset, a part of popular fashion for the better part of four hundred

years. Instead of just analyzing the corset in the sense of oppression versus liberation,

Steele wrote about how it was a symbol of status and social acceptance and beauty. We

read this book to aid our analysis of the changes Chanel’s innovation in fashion catalyzed,

and what it meant for women and status in the 1920’s.

Wallach, Janet. Chanel her style and her life. 1st ed. New York: N. Talese, 1998. Print.

This book was one more biography of the designer that we read. This particular book

focused much on the innovative style of Chanel, as well as her personal life and romantic

endeavors. We used this information in conjunction with what we already learned about

our subject.

Watson, Linda. Vogue Fashion: over 100 Years of Style by Decade and Designer, in

Association with Vogue. Richmond Hill, Ont.: Firefly, 2008. Print.

This book provided us with a look on Coco Chanel through the eyes of Vogue magazine.

We took many quotes from this source and placed them throughout our webpages. They

really capture Chanel's impact upon society and culture in a certain time period.

ENCYCLOPEDIA

Anderson, Fiona. "Tweed." Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. Ed. Valerie Steele.

Vol. 3. Detroit: Charles Scribner's Sons, 2005. 346-348. Fashion & Costume Reference

Collection. Web. 20 Mar. 2010.

This source described the beginning uses of tweed in Chanel's design history. Due to her

relationship with the Duke of Westminster, Chanel was inspired to use Scottish tweed.

This information was utilized in Chanel's "Later Life" web page.

"Chanel, Gabrielle 'Coco'." Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body

Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages. Ed. Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast.

Vol. 4: Modern World Part I: 1900-1945. Detroit: UXL, 2004. 766-767. Fashion &

Costume Reference Collection. Web. 20 Mar. 2010.

This source is a biography focusing on the fashion and culture of Chanel, part of a fashion

reference book. Coco Chanel created the basic look of the modern woman. This statement

laid the foundation to our website. Her timeless success was outlined within this web

selection. She had a practical approach to high fashion. She believed that the point of

fashion was to allow the real woman to show through, not to cover her up with frills and

fluff. Her name "coco" is derived from the word cocotte, a French word for a woman with
 loose morals. Women like first lady Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis wore many of Chanel's

designs, popularizing her designs in America.

"Chanel No. 5." Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations,

and Footwear through the Ages. Ed. Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast. Vol. 4:

Modern World Part I: 1900-1945. Detroit: UXL, 2004. 764-765. Fashion & Costume

Reference Collection. Web. 20 Mar. 2010.

This source from a well-respected fashion and costume textbook described how the

famous Chanel No. 5 perfume came to be. Infused with aldehydes and hints of jasmine,

chemist Ernest Beaux mixed the perfume to match Chanel's strong personality.

"Flappers." Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and

Footwear through the Ages. Ed. Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast. Vol. 4: Modern

World Part I: 1900-1945. Detroit: UXL, 2004. 732. Fashion & Costume Reference

Collection. Web. 20 Mar. 2010.

This source describes how Chanel greatly influenced the creation of the flapper girl, the

first modern women. The information is featured in the "Feminist" innovation page.

Gibson, Pamela Church. "Fashion Icons." Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. Ed.

Valerie Steele. Vol. 2. Detroit: Charles Scribner's Sons, 2005. 46-48.Fashion & Costume

Reference Collection. Web. 20 Mar. 2010.

This source provided us with a quote that describes Chanel as a Fashion Icon and how she

participated in the democratization of fashion. We used the quote in our photo gallery.

Sauro, Clare. "Flappers." Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. Ed. Valerie Steele. Vol.

2. Detroit: Charles Scribner's Sons, 2005. 88-89. Fashion & Costume Reference

Collection. Web. 29 Mar. 2010.

Entry on the flapper subculture of the 1920’s and their frivolous and carefree disregard

for authority and tradition. Used for support on the changing status of women thanks in

part to fashion design that broke established conventions once according to the fantasies

of men.

"Short Hair for Women." Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body
 Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages. Ed. Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast.

Vol. 4: Modern World Part I: 1900-1945. Detroit: UXL, 2004. 761-762. Fashion &

Costume Reference Collection. Web. 20 Mar. 2010.

This source from a large and all encompassing fashion textbook provided us with

historical background on why women began to cut their hair short, and what this action

symbolized. We used the information in our "Feminist" page. Also, this page of the book

describes the legend of why Chanel cut her hair short.

IMAGES

Chanel Logo. Digital image. BodyExotics. Web. 29 Jan. 2010.

<http://bodyexotics.com/images/800px-Chanel_logo.svg.png>.

The world famous and highly recognizable logo of the Chanel brand, as well as the font

used in the brand’s name. We used this image to create our header, which has Coco

Mademoiselle above the Chanel in this image and Ripping the Seams within Fashion,

Society and History below it. The sponsor, Start Logic, is a web host that provides

solutions for global business.

"Chanel - Runway Photos - Fall 2009 Runway at InStyle.com." Runway Photos - Spring,

Fall Styles - Designer Central Collections - Designer Central - InStyle. Web. 27 Mar. 2010.

<http://fashiondesigners.instyle.com/collections/photos/runway/chanel/results.html?

No=148>.

This fashion website provided us with Karl Lagerfeld's current designs for the House of

Chanel. It provided us with useful images, which are used in the photo gallery, in order to

further show the legacy that Chanel has passed onto the modern generation.

"Chanel - Runway Photos - Fall 2010 Runway at InStyle.com." Runway Photos - Spring,

Fall Styles - Designer Central Collections - Designer Central - InStyle. Web. 27 Mar. 2010.

<http://fashiondesigners.instyle.com/collections/photos/runway/chanel/results.html?

No=21>
 This source provided us with present images of Chanel's most recent runway show. The

designs are featured within our photo gallery.

Chanel Spring Runway 2009. Digital image. Fashion Copious. 03 Oct. 2008. Web. Nov.

2009.

http://fashioncopious.typepad.com/.a/6a00e54ef96453883401053529659e970c-800wi

A picture of the Spring 2009 runway in Paris and the large facility housing it, this shows

the enormous power of Chanel as a fashion house today. A fashion source written by

John, blogger from New York City, records the most current happenings in the Big Apple.

Chang, Alice. Karl Lagerfeld and Bear. Alice Chang, 2009. Acrylic. Seattle.

A two-dimensional painting done in acrylic paint by one of our own group members Alice

Chang. This is a rendition of a photograph of Karl Lagerfeld and his custom teddy bear by

Steiff. This painting of the current Chanel director is done in only select shades of black

and grey, colors that were favorites of Coco Chanel and often used in Chanel designs, then

and now. We used this painting in the photo gallery to show the modern impact of Coco

Chanel.

Columbia, David P. "Social Diary 10/16/06 - Back in the Saddle." Welcome |

New York Social Diary. Web. 27 Mar. 2010.

<http://www.newyorksocialdiary.com/socialdiary/2006/10_16_06/socialdiary10_16_0

6.php>.

This source provided a picture of the inside of Chanel's apartment at Rue Cambon, Paris.

We included it within our photo gallery. David Columbia, the creator of this website,

writes about society and social profiles for Quest Magazine.

Models in Chanel Spring 09 Show. Digital image. Style Frizz. Oct. 2008. Web. Oct.

2009.

<http://stylefrizz.com/img/chanel-couture-spring-09-black-white.jpg>.

A close look at the models walking down the Chanel catwalk in the spring 2009 show.

Their outfits are modern creations from head designer Karl Lagerfeld, but they retain the

silhouettes and aesthetic of Coco Chanel’s vision. Style Frizz is a blog written by a fashion

enthusiast who often reports the latest runway shows.

What Would Coco Do? Harper's Bazaar. Web. 30 Jan. 2010.

<http://www.harpersbazaar.com/cm/harpersbazaar/images/3c/coco-do-HL-0909-

de.jpg>.

This image is one of Karl Lagerfeld's sketches for the House of Chanel. He inherited the

fashion house a few decades ago and has become a prominent figure in the fashion

industry. We used his sketch to encapsulate the prominence of Chanel in the modern

world. Sponsored by the magazine, Harper’s Bazaar, this online rendition thoroughly

records their printed issues since the early twentieth century.

INTERVIEWS

Charleston, Beth D. "History of Fashion." E-mail interview. Dec. 2009.

As our research progressed, we needed solid information on the historical and innovative

aspect of our project. We contacted Parsons New School of Design, one of the most

accredited design schools in the U.S. and located in the heart of American fashion, New

York City. Beth Dincuff Charleston, professor of the History of Fashion at Parsons,

responded, willing to answer our questions on Chanel. Charleston is manager of the

Calvin Klein Archives, and works to create design timelines to maintain classic elements

of that brand. A noted fashion historian, she has contributed to Newsweek and authored

the 19th century chapter of college textbooks among other achievements. Our interview

was crucial in our understanding of the radical changes Coco Chanel made, her

extraordinary innovation in design, and the freedom of women from the tight constraints

of 19th century fashion.

Karbo, Karen. "Karen Karbo: Author of "The Gospel of Chanel"" Interview.

Print.

As the author of The Gospel of Chanel, a well-praised biography on Coco Chanel, Karbo

provided us with many quotable phrases about Chanel as a feminist. We asked her what

traits about Chanel inspired her to write her book, how Chanel impacted the development

of the modern woman, and how she was innovative as a feminist.

Stolz, Natacha. "Chanel Intern Interview” E-mail interview. Nov. 2009.

When our group was in 9th grade, we were able to view an exhibit of the senior class’s

Culminating Projects. A senior named Natacha Stolz did one of the most incredible

projects. In the summer of 2007, she traveled to Paris to intern at the Chanel

Headquarters, currently directed by head designer Karl Lagerfeld. As an intern, she

gained insight into the modern and current aspects of the House of Chanel, but also on

the significance of Coco Chanel and her aesthetic. Now a sophomore at the School of the

Art Institute of Chicago, a top ranking school of art and design, she became the subject of

our second interview. As we knew her personally, we felt like she was a great candidate

for giving insight into the modern aspect of Coco Chanel and her innovations. Mainly, her

interview revealed the significance of Coco Chanel in fashion, and how the current

woman would not feel the same about clothes and themselves had it not been for Coco

Chanel’s work years ago.

MUSIC

Piaf, Edith. "La Vie en Rose." The Voice of the Sparrow: The Very Best of Edith Piaf.

1946. MP3.

We used this classic and iconic French song from Edith Piaf, one of the most respected

French singers of Chanel’s time period. Henceforth, we paired this song with the Time

Period/Historical Context page.

Pottier, Elise. "Mademoiselle." Mademoiselle. Mercury Records, 2008. MP3.

We enjoyed the dramatic strings in the beginning of this song, and thought it was

appropriate that the song’s main word and name is Mademoiselle, which happened to be

what most people who were in Chanel’s circle called her. This tidbit of information was a

key to our thesis, as we explain the connotations of this aspect of Coco Chanel. We chose

this song for the index, to introduce the site and convey the significance of

“Mademoiselle”. The song’s lyrics are also rather anti-men, likening men to old
 bubblegum stuck on the bottom of shoes, and it was key to our thesis that Chanel was not

reliant on men.

"Qui Qu'a Vu Coco." Cond. Alexandre Desplat. Coco Avant Chanel Soundtrack.

Alexandre Desplat, 2009. MP3.

Gabrielle Chanel reportedly sang this song when she worked as a small town performer

early in her career, as portrayed in the movie Coco Avant Chanel. It became a favorite,

and she took on Coco from the song as her new name, abandoning her less privileged past

life.

WEBSITES

"Coco Chanel quotes." ThinkExist.com Quotations. Web. Dec. 2009. "Quotes - Coco

Chanel on Bio." Bio. - Shows, Schedules, and Biographies on Bio. Web. Dec. 2009.

<http://www.thebiographychannel.co.uk/biographies/coco-chanel/quotes.html>.

This biography site has an extensive list of quotes said by Coco Chanel. We used at least

one for every page on the website, to show the audience Chanel’s distinct and strong

voice, as well as her personal opinions on innovation, fashion, and women. The

Biography Channel, a British website, is a leading source for biographies of celebrities

and innovators in history.

"History of 20th Century Womens Fashion | Random History." Random History and

Word Origins for the Curious Mind. Web. 30 Jan. 2010.

<http://www.randomhistory.com/1-50/003clothing.html>.

This website described the changes in women's fashion throughout the 20th century. This

helped us connect Chanel's contributions with the broader evolution in fashion. Random

History is created by a group of history enthusiast. They report on an extensive section of

history and facts on random topics.

"Karen Karbo RapSheet." Karen Karbo. Web. 29 Mar. 2010.

<http://www.karenkarbo.com/Default.aspx?Page=RapSheet>.
Biography of one of our interviewees, well known author Karen Karbo. We used this site

for her biography in our interviews page.