ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

We would like to acknowledge the following on the

threshold of our achievement of successful completion of
the technical report during our 40 days training at SHAHI
EXPORT HOUSE. First we would like to acknowledge the
blessings of our parents along with the grace of God.
We sincerely acknowledge with deep sense of gratitude
and indebtness to Mr. Balakrishna Shetty, who allowed us
to carry out this training successfully in his company.
Words fail to express our sincere regards to Head of all
Departments
whose
never-ending
enthusiasm,
motivation, valuable suggestions, proper guidance and
practical approach towards the technical data and
informations helped us a lot in coming up with this
technical report.
We are also very thankful to Mr. Eashwar ,Senior
executive of IED,whose sincere efforts helped us during
our industrial internship at SHAHI EXPORT HOUSE.
Moreover we can never forget the help rendered from our
Principal-In Charge Mrs.Kasturi Shetty and other staff
members in this internship.

INDEX
COMPANY PROFILE
MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROLL
INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING
PURCHASE DEPARTMENT
FABRIC SOURCING DEPARTMENT
CENTRALISED ACCESSORY STORES
FABRIC AUDIT
GRADING AND MARKER MAKING
SPREADING,CUTTING AND SORTING DEPARTMENT
EMBROIDERY SECTION
PRODUCTION(SEWING)DEPARTMENT
WASHING SECTION
QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT

 FINISHING DEPARTMENT
RETAILING AND DESIGNING LAB
CONCLUSION

UNDER THE GUIDENCE OF MR.EASHWAR,SENIOR EXECUTIVE,IED

SUBMITTED BY,
SHILPASHRI HEGDE,Bsc in
FD,MIFT
DIVYA,Bsc in GD,MIFT

One of the leading apparel manufacturing export house in India. SEPL

earlier known as Shahi Export House was established in the year 1976 at
Faridabad.
The head office is located in Faridabad and has several units across India
and 28 units in Bengaluru itself.
Both woven and knitted garments produced in their respective divisions
based on product Shahi has been further bifurcated in various divisions
viz. MNB, LSD, LFD, LBD, Knits etc.
Shahi is known for its quality products, delivery terms thus have
popularity all over world and exports to Europe, USA, Canada, Japan etc
SHAHI - WHERE AESTHETICS MEETS PROFESSIONALISM
History
Shahi - started in 1974 at Delhi, Bangalore operations began on 1st July
1988 with 250 associates and 104 machines. Expansion by 60 times in
last 30 years.
Manufacture

We manufacture 3 million pcs of high quality wovens & knits per month
and catering to all segments in the apparel industry. A whooping over 2
million square feet for wovens/knits and we manufacture 1 million pcs of
per month of knits & 2 million pc per month of wovens. The
manufacturing units are located in Delhi, Bengaluru, Tirupur and Salem.
Design & Product Development
Our core strength is being Product Development & Design Inputs
supported by in-house studio and our offices in US & Europe. Our success
being we bring the latest trends in the markets coupled with our in-depth
study and shopping and create line for a particular brand 'n' to bring the
newness in the ever changing fashion world.
We have a dedicated knowledgeable product design team, that travels
worldwide to take the best of the trends and transforming to design
creation with mood boards, samples and given added advantage to the
customers. We believe to become partners in the progress of our
customers, we have to understand the needs and deliver the latest
design & product development inputs to make the journey a success.
Awards
Best exporters Award from AEPC
Best Vendor of the year rated by Wal-Mart/JC Penney/ Target
Best Manufacturing facilities rated by NIFT.
Our People make the difference
We believe in corporate leadership, the success is responsibility with
freedom to work is transferred to every individual with a collective
teamwork.
The entire Shahi organization works on a single ERP system, which
unifies all the departments working. This not only makes us one of a kind
but also gives us the superiority of efficient functioning.
This allows us to typically handle the manufacturing, logistics,
distribution, inventory, shipping, invoicing, and accounting for a company.

This also sychronises our business activities like sales, delivery, billing,
production, inventory management, quality management, and human
resources management.
Our today's structure is in complete contrast to our yesteryears'
departments, which have given way to modules like CRM, SRM, SCM and
EPM, to not only give efficient services to our customers but also to deal
effectively with suppliers.
Our ERP functioning is cross-functional and enterprise wide. All functional
departments that are involved in operations or production are integrated
in one system. In addition to manufacturing, warehousing, logistics, and
Information Technology, this also includes accounting, human resources,
marketing, and strategic management.
The automisation level that we have in Shahi is at par with the best of
the best in garment industry.
The technological advantage with Shahi is what makes unique, with an
improved business performance.
Through Our Enterprise Resource Planning, we have amalgamated our
company's information systems & have designed it to bind more closely,
all our company functions including human resources, inventories and
financials while simultaneously linking the company to customers and
vendors.

WOVEN DEVISION:
Shahi Woven's is traditionally recognized for its excellence in quality,
product range, service & reliability. A whooping of over a million square
feet is dedicated to produce the finest garments covers a vast spectrum
of the woven line - men's and boy's shirts - casuals, men's shirts formals, ladies & girls blouses, ladies & girls dresses and men's & ladies
bottoms, among others.

Our core strength is being Product Development & Design Inputs

supported by in-house studio and our offices in US. Our success being we
bring the latest trends in the markets coupled with our in-depth study
and shopping and create line for a particular brand 'n' to bring the
newness in the ever changing fashion world.
We manufacture 2 million high quality woven garments per month and
we are in the processing expanding 0.5 million pieces by the year 2007.
We have the world-class garment washing coupled with dry process to
cater the fashion trends.
We have the state-of-the-art continuous fabric processing & handles all
kinds of woven fabrics like poplin, twill, canvas and gauze etc., which are
made of cotton, linen, rayon and lycra blends. The modern fabric
processing delivers over 100,000 meters a day.
We have a structured quality system right from the inspection of all inward materials and the on-line checking of the garments in assembly line
& inspection of the finished garments.
PRODUCT CLASSIFICATION
Premium ware
We are catering to Golf ware, Corporate-ware, Premium-ware, which are
crafted from the finest Egyptian or Pima cotton to the stringent quality
levels.
Fashions ware
We are catering to the customer in Northern America, Europe especially
Italy where they are the trend setters and close to the fashion 'n' quick
delivery subject to the changes as the order progress with innovative
ideas & design in-puts.
RETAIL

We are able to cater the major retailers in Northern American/Europe

where we have expertise in sourcing the right fabric at the competitive
price and the optimum efficiency in sewing to make the products more
competitive to cater to the major retailers worldwide
PRODUCTS
Mens / Boys
Polo
Crew Neck
Henley
Raglon
Hoody
V Neck
Fleece Jacket
Tracksuit
Womens / Girls
Tee
Camisole
Embelished Top
Cap sleeve Top
Strap Tank Top
Vest
Skirt
FABRICATION
All Cotton & Cotton blended fabrics will be manufactured in-house. We
also import various blended fabrics suiting to our buyer requirements.
Single Jersey
Pique
Sheer Jersey
Interlock

Waffle
Ottoman
Flat Back Rib
Yarn Dyed Striper
Mini-Jacquard
Electronic Jacquard
Velour
Pointel
Sueded
Rib 1x1, 2x2
Verigated Rib
Cotton Fleece
Polyester Fleece
PRODUCTION CAPACITY
We are producing 1 million garments per month, having future plans to
expand 0.5 million by 2007.
Leadtime
Normally we work on 90 - 120 days leadtime & for repeat orders we even
work on 75 - 90 days leadtime.
We at Shahi are working with WGSN to closley put together seasonal
presentations to the diff brands that we cater to. Our team of Designers
at New York and India work together closely to create trend setting styles
and boards depending on the customer the brands.
Gap, Old Navy, Tommy Hillfiger, Guess, HnM, Pacsun, Decathalon,
Debenhams, Express, Nautica, SeanJean, Brooks Brothers, SSI, Chaps,
Polo, J Crew, Target, JCP, PVH, Izod, Talbots, KDC, Sears, Aeo, A&F,
Hollister, Liz Claiborne, Gymboore, Benneton, Kohl's, Federated, J Jill,
Club Monaco, Eeddie Baeur, French Cconnection, Armani Exchange, Italy
Win Studios

PRODUCTS
Casual Wear Tops
Casual Wear Bottoms
Jumpers
Dungarees

MENS - TOPS
PRODUCTS
Tops Casual Wear
Tops Semi Casual Wear
Bottoms Casual Wear
Bottoms Semi Casual Wear
Casual Non Lined Jackets
MATERIALS
100% cotton, poplins, twills, light canvas
Madras, special madras, seersuckers, dobbies and jacquards.
Mill made chks and stripes
100% Linen, chks and stripes, solids
Blended fabrics with cheif value cotton blends, in solids, checks and
stripes
Corduroy, Velvett
Mens - Bottoms
PRODUCTS
Tops Casual Wear
Tops Semi Casual Wear

Bottoms Casual Wear

Bottoms Semi Casual Wear
Casual Non Lined Jackets
Materials
All cotton woven fabrics like twills, canvas, rib stop, herring bone weave,
Bedford cords, corduroys, velvett, sateen weave etc. we can also handle
blended fabrics but not synthetic fabrics like 100% nylons, micro fibre
filament, coated fabrics like taffeta's and taslons.

MANUFACTURING
An innovative team under mature infrastructure is the pride of Shahi in
fashion industry. We got 21 state-of-the-art manufacturing facilities
spread across Delhi, Bangalore, Tirupur with whooping 15,000 machines
installed. It is supported by the latest automatic spreaders & CAD/CAM
cutting and the best of the micro-process controlled sewing machines
with under-bed trimmers.
The start-of-the-art sewing facilities with online checking at critical points
coupled with stringent quality controls at finishing section meeting the
standards of our buyers.
The facilities are of most modern with a total buildup area over 4 million
sq. ft. spread across India to support to manufacturing.
EMBROIDERY
We are one of the largest installation of Barudan over 90 machines each
of 20 heads capable of producing 9 colors, producing 1 billion stitches per
day. Also new embroidery addition can support sequencing and special
operations in the machine, with the above capacity we can turn-around
time of an order can be shorter.

WASHING

We have state-of-the art front loaded micro-process controlled washing

facilities with a expertise of washing for various brands like Abercrombie,
Replay etc., we can do the following washes in fabric & garment form
Enzyme wash
Acid wash
Potassium permanganate wash
Aged wash
Vintage wash
Rubber ball wash
Tea stain wash

GARMENT DYEING

Garment pigment dyed

Sulpher dyed
Garment dyed over print
Tie & Dye
Dip Dye

TRAINING
Our most valuable asset is our Human Resource. It is imperative to
develop people to take on the challenges of future. We believe that this
can be achieved only by continuously honing competencies and
developing individuals to take on higher roles and greater responsibilities.
Businesses today have to be ready to compete. Improved transportation
and communication has shrunk the world. The talk is now of "global
pressures", and "world market requirements". Improving productivity is
the name of the game.

Shahi provides focused learning experiences to the Associates, which

stimulate, support and develop their potential into work related
competencies.
Multi Skill training, Seminars and Workshops on relevant topics groom
the Associates on required competencies.
QUALITY
PRE PRODUCTION ACTIVITIES
Process development department analysits issues a file to Quality and
Production.
Suggests batch layout/folders/guides and egronomic as per GSD to be
used for bulk production
Changes in design / construction suggested to the buyer for improved
quality / productivity
FABRICS
4 Point system for fabric inspection by professionally trained manpower.
In house lab for testing various fabric parameters like shrinkage,
spirality, wet and dry rub, colour fastness to washing etc.
CUTTING
State of the art cutting room equipped with latest CAD/CAMS to provide
precision cutting consistently
Fabric is relaxed to control shrinkage
In majority of cases panel wash is done to arrest shrinkage, and spirality
(in knits)
On line inspection to address issues related to laying, spreading, cutting
Lot wise GSM / Shade continuity cards maintained in cutting section.

Sewing
Stress on process standardization to enhance quality
Deskilling Operation by using folders / guides / pattens to get consistent
quality.
SPF concept enables minimum wip in the lines thereby making it easier
to control quality.
In line inspection points to weed out isues as close as possible to the
needle.
An independent audit team audits pcs after end line inspection @ 1.5
AQL
Pcs are moved to fng only after their certification.
Feedback from Audit on daily basis for further improvement
Finishing
Clear SOP for processing of a style in finishing.
Strong independent internal audit to certify quality before final shipment.

MERCHANDISING PROCESS CHART

Enquiry

Garment spec,tech pack

Quotation

Negotiation

Order finalization

TNA

Documentation

Money Realization

ORS
STAFF STRUCTURE OF MERCHANDISING TEAM
VP marketing

Senior marketing manager

Marketing manager

Asst. marketing manager

Senior merchandiser

Merchandiser

Junior merchandiser

Trainee merchandiser
WHAT SHOULD A MERCHANDISER KNOW!!!
Merchandiser should have a basic knowledge about fabric sourcing,
fabric prices, fabric quality, fabric construction, and quality control
methods.
For sampling one should know how to check specifications and proto
types, styles and sketches. Because the merchandiser has to make
approval at many stages.
A merchandiser has to have thorough knowledge of fashion like
colours, design, style, trends etc.
A merchandiser has to have thorough knowledge of production.
Knowledge of costing and pricing of garment is required.
Lab tests, the delivered fabric for shrinkage, and various colour
fastness standards, washing, rubbing, perspiration, and light.
Keep track of production cycle indicating fabric delivery schedules
and organizing inspections.
To keep the buyer informed about the status of the order on an
ongoing basis. If the dead line cant be met request for extension. If
not granted, the consignment will have to be air freighted at
suppliers cost.
After the consignment leaves, the buyer has to be intimated on the
shipping details.
Price negotiation at the order placing stage and following up on
payment is another aspect of the job.

PROCESS INVOLVED
ENQUIRY
The buyer will come to the industry for enquiry and if he is satisfied with
the companys production process, he will give the tech pack i.e.
technical pack to the merchandiser.
TECH PACK
Tech pack is also called as GSS (Garment Spec Sheet). It contains the
following details.
Style summary.
Design detail.
Sketch detail.
Measurement verification.
Sample evaluation.
TECH PACK CONTENTS
For every style they will maintain separate folder, the folder contents
are

Material information.
Construction spec sheet.
Production spec sheet.
Embroidery chart.

Body details.
Inside zip facing details.
Pocket details.
Label placement.
Measurement details.
Folding details.
Packing details.

MATERIAL INFORMATION
This is about materials, which are required for particular style. It contains
the type of fabric, trims and accessories used for a particular style.
CONSTRUCTION SPEC SHEET
It shows how the garment looks after stitching with sketch. It contains
colour of the fabric, thread colour for the particular style. It also indicates
the use of thread of different colours and accessories.
PRODUCTION SPECIFICATION SHEET
It contains all the sizes, which are specified, actual measurements and
tolerance measurements for particular sizes.
EMBROIDERY COLOUR CHART
If any embroidery work is specified for a particular style, the buyer will
give this chart. They will mention the size of the design, placement of the
design, thread supplier name, colour of threads used for that particular
design, use of various coloured threads in different parts of the design,
fabrics and threads.

BODY DETAILS
It contains how to construct a garment, which type m/c to be used for
that particular operation etc.

INSIDE ZIP FACING DETAILS

If there is any zipper attachment, the buyer gives these details that is
how to attach the facing for the same. These details are provided with
sketches.

POCKET DETAILS
For pocket attachment pocket detail sheet is given. It contains how to
place the pocket, type of pocket and pocket measurements.
LABEL PLACEMENT
This sheet gives the details about the placement of main label, size label
and wash/care label, whether at center of the moon patch or center of
the back neck. The sizes of the label are also mentioned in the sheet.
MEASUREMENT DETAILS
They mention how to check the measurements. This sheet contains the
sketch of the style. For e.g. Sleeve length measurement is marked from
shoulder point to sleeve opening point. Similarly all the measurements
are mentioned. It helps while checking and in FSA.

FOLDING DETAILS
The buyers are very specific about folding of the garment. The folding
steps are mentioned stepwise in how to fold sheet with diagrams.
According to that the garment is folded.
PACKING DETAILS
Buyers are also specific about the packing. With diagrams they mention
the packing process, i.e. how to insert the garment into the poly bag.
Whether the printing on the poly bag should be on top or down and
whether the poly bag should be self-sealed or cello tape sealed, etc.

QUOTATION
After getting the tech pack, the merchandiser gets the complete idea
about the style of the garment and the required accessories. On this
basis the costing is done.

NEGOTIATIONS
Negotiations are carried out between the buyer and the merchandiser of
the company to fix a price for the garment to finalize the order.
ORDER FINALIZATION
Once the price has been fixed, the order will be finalized. The buyer
places an order of the total quantity of garments to be produced.
TNA (TIME AND ACTION PLAN)

Some buyers give the shipment date and some asks for the shipment
date. In that case, the merchandiser works out for the required time
depending upon the following data
Fabric sourcing.
Yarn
Knitting
Dyeing
Production.
Inspection.
Finishing.
Grace days if any.
Delay in
Stitching.
Material flow.
Operator absenteeism.
After calculating these days, give the shipment date is fixed.
As soon as the order is confirmed, the buyer may ask for the following
samples:
He may ask for all the samples or sometimes for any of them:

Fit sample.
Testing sample.
Size set sample.
Pilot sample.
Top sample.
Salesman sample.

FIT SAMPLE
After getting the tech pack the first step is to send the fit sample. Fit
sample is the sample according to the style & size. This can be of any
fabric. Alternate fabrics can be used for this sample.

If the buyer sends any comments on this, required corrections are

made and the sample is again sent for approval.
.

TESTING SAMPLE
When the fit sample is approved, it takes some 30 40 days to send the
testing sample. Because actual fabric is used for testing sample, i.e.
required fabric, fabric colour, fabric shrinkage %, GSM, colour fastness,
etc.
This sample should fulfill all the required embellishments except
M/L & S/L.
The testing sample should be exactly as per the buyers requirement .If
any of the requirements is not fulfilled; the buyer sends comments on
the testing samples. Accordingly corrections are made and the samples
are re-sent until they are approved.
FABRIC PERFORMANCE TEST (FPT)
This is done to know the quality of the fabric. The FPT property contains
the following informations.

Fabric weight.
Thread count.
Fiber content.
Flammability.
Care label.
Yarn /seam slippage.
Seam stretchability.
Tear strength.
Tensile strength.

Bursting strength.
Torque / spirallity.
Dimensional stability to washing.
Appearance after washing.
Pilling resistance.
Colour fastness to actual laundering
Colour fastness to crocking.
Colour fastness to washing.
Colour fastness to perspiration.
Colour fastness to water.
Colour fastness to light.
Colour fastness to chlorine bleach.
Colour fastness to non-chlorine bleach..
Colour fastness to burnt gas.
Colour fastness to pool water.
Colour fastness to sea water.
Stretch recovery.
Recovery.

GPT GARMENT PERFORMANCE TEST

If a garment is dyed then the garment is sent for garment performance
test. This test is carried out to check the durability of the garment, small
part attachment strength, neck stretch construction view, etc.
This test is done according to buyers requirement.
LAB DIP
This is to test the correct shade of the fabric. Some 3-4 shades of the
same colour are sent for the buyers approval. From these shades the
buyer will approve one according to which the whole lot of fabric is
ordered.
CALCULATIONS & CONVERSIONS
Example

Width of the fabric = 30 (Tubular),

Length = 100 cms.
GSM = 220.
So, Width
=
=
=
=

30 + 30
60
60 * 2.54
152.4 cms.

So, Fabric Consumption in gms

=
=
=

( L * W * GSM) / 10,000
(100 * 152.4 * 220) / 10,000
334.4 gms

As, 334.4 gms of fabric is equivalent to = 1 mt.

So, 1000 gms of fabric is equivalent to = (1 * 1000) / 334.4
= 2.99 mts

SIZE SET SAMPLE

After the testing sample is approved, the buyer asks for size set sample.
The size set sample contains samples of all sizes which the buyer has
quoted. If the time is very short, then the buyer asks for jump size set.
Once the size set sample is approved, the pilot run sample is made
before the final production.
PILOT RUN SAMPLE
Before bulk production around 200-300 pieces are produced which forms
the pilot run sample. The quantity produced is according to buyers
specification. As soon as the pilot run sample is produced it is ready for
inspection by the buyer QC. If any defects like stitching, garmenting,
measurements, trims etc. are found the QC sends a comment sheet on
that. Then corrective actions are taken as per the comment sheet and

the buyer QC is again asked for inspection. If no defects are found the
buyer gives final approval to start the bulk production.
TOP SAMPLE
It is also called as shipment sample. No goods can be boarded before the
top sample approval. It is produced during the bulk production. It is
important that the shipment sample should get approved before
shipment date.
SALESMAN SAMPLE
It is called as advertisement sample. According to the buyers
requirement some 400-500 samples are sent to the buyer. The buyer
tries to distribute it to retail shops and agents. This is a kind of
advertisement is done to promote the garment.
DOCUMENTATION
After shipment, all documents of the goods are sent to the buyer. All
dealings are done through the buyers bank and manufactures bank.
MONEY REALIZATION
The manufacturer sends the documents to the manufacturer bank. From
there the documents are collected by the buyers bank on payment of the
receipt.

EXAMPLE FOR THE COSTING OF GARMENT

Agent
Buyer
Style no.
Fabric details
Description

Li & Fung
Limited Too
866175
2 x 2 rib
Tank

Dia./ Gauge
Fabric width
Chest
Length
S. Length
Extra folding
GSM
Body weight
Placket
Yoke
Pocket
Collar/rib
Extra
Total garment
weight
Yarn
Knit
Dyeing
Compacting
Brushing
Washing
Total
Loss at 8 %
Tot. Fabric Cost/kg
Fabric Cost
/garment
Woven fabric/rib
Embroidery
Testing charges
CM
Accessories / Trims
Crystal attaching

26/1844
101.60 cm
0
75.00
65.00
0
230
327.15
0
0
0
0
10.00
337.15
152
20
25
6
0
0
203. 00
16.24
219.24
73.92
0
0
2
30
31
20

PURPOSE OF THE DEPT

To prepare the sample pieces according to the buyers requirements
Without the sampling process firm cannot proceeds for production
All the corrections in patterns,experiments can be done in Sampling
stage only
Sampling section incorporates the comments from the buyers in
every stage from the proto stage to sealer sample
KEY FUNCTIONS OF THE DEPT
Receives the tech pack
Developes the pattern
CAD dept works out with the costing
Develop the fit or proto sample
If any comments received, revise fit/proto sample
Develop the PP Sample, any comments received, revise PP Sample
and send it back
Develop Size set samples, if any comments from the buyer is
received, incorporate the buyer comment

 Develop sealer sample,if any comments received incorporate the

buyers comments
Procede for the Sealer sample, if any comments
received,incorporate the buyer comment and procede for the bulk
production
RECEIVING THE TECH PACKS

Merchandiser will issue the tech packs

Which contains informations like Buyer name,Style number,Garment
description,Season,Wash details,Fabric length and width
information,Size chart,ect

DEVELOPING THE PATTERNS

PROCEEDURE TO START PATTERN MAKING
Merchandisers will issue the pattern indent with Tech pack.
Pattern indent contains Name of the buyer, style number, garment
description, garment size,Date or time issue,Fabric details, Wash
details,Shrinkage details,Pattern ammendment,Tracing
requirements,Block pattern given,Sketch or spec required, Sample
enclosed for refference, Fabric grain detail, Marker required,CTBL
width, Matching STDs, Plaids,Stripe repeat, Studying such
informations pattern maker will do the basic block
Adopting the basic block to perticular style
INFORMATION REQUIRED TO MAKE PATTERN
Measurement chart
Pattern indent with Tech pack
Informations like Buyers, Style number, Garment
illustations,Construction details,Marker required, Sample enclosed
with Refference etc
TOOLS REQUIRED FOR PATTERN MAKING

Scale
Seissors
Tracing wheel
French curve
Trousers scale
Card board
Pencil
Gumtape
Stepler etc

COSTING CAD MARKER

MARKER
Marker is a layer in which all the patterns are traced in such a way that
there will be minimum fabric wastage and more effeciency is achieved
PURPOSE OF MARKER

Achieves higher effeciency

Placing the marker on the layers of the fabric,cutting can be done
fastly in CNC or mannual cutting method
Once the marker is prepared,which will used further for the
production
Marker saves time as well as manpower

THE SOFTWARE USED FOR MARKER MAKING

Optitex

THE DATA OR INFORMATION REQUIRED TO MAKE A MARKER

Information about fabric width
Type of fabric and shrinkage
Pecentage size chart etc

SAMPLING MAKING PROCESS

IN GENERAL

PATTERN MAKING
ACTIVITIES
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Fit
samples

maker
prepares
per the following
work
After approval of sample from
instructions
PreProduction
and
check the samples
name as
buyer QA it is packed
as per
per
Sizethe
set pattern
samplesreport
Cutting
the work instruction.The
and
cutter
After
receipt
of the tech
packing is done
in
presence
ofmust
Sewing
PD executive
orFinishing
merchandiser
After
making
the pattern
pack ,the
sampling
dept

One counter of the

sample
will
,
the
pattern
maker
manager
forwards
The
protoforsample
is the
be retained in Sampling
prepares
pattern
tech pack
to the
checked
by the
internal
QA as
refference
report
and
the
coordinator
to
file
it
per the
DISPATCH OF PROTO SAMPLES
Along with sample,
the work instructions.
buyerwise
and style
required documents
put in
If cuttermust.
the are
comments
from QA

The
pattern
report
must
wise.Coordinator
pastes
the package are
incorporated then
the
The details of thebe
proto
duly
checked
and
the
style
history
sheet
sample is
samples dispatched
and by
signed
theof
technician.
on front
side
the
reworked.Reworked
recorded
in
the
outgoing
file.Coordinator
the by
DEVELOPMENT PRE-PROTO

Theisproduct
sample
re-inspected
register for refference.
enters
theQA
style details
development
the
internal
The coordinator
ensures
that
in
style
allocation
executive
provide
Based
on sample
collection
the proto indent
receive
register
required
rawmaterials
date,garment date,
exit
date,internal
Coordinator intimate

The
coordinator
and external review
date
and
(substitute
the date
of
PD fabric and
garment sent date
is
recorded
prepares
the daily
trims)
along
withplan
theto
exwcutive/merchandiser
in the productioninstatus
consultation
with
sample
for
invites
buyerindent
QA for
final
format.
technicians
and
pattern
making
pre-proto
inspection.
makers
andofallocate
samples.
APPROVAL OF PROTO
After
review
sample the
by
work
to
the
pattern

Sampling
dept
makes
SAMPLE
internal QA sample is
master
accordingly
thefor
pre-proto
as per
offered
inspection
to
The
coordinators
make
the
work
buyer QA.

BUYERS COMMENTS

After receipt on buyer

comments on proto
sample,PD Executives or
merchandiser forwards the
comments to sampling
dept.
Coordinatos record the
details in update register
and file the new tech pack
in a circulating file.This is
then handed over to the
pattern maker
If the comments asks for
pattern correction,then
there will be
incorporations in pattern
by pattern maker
If the buyer request for
the next proto sample or
fit sample,then the
process is repeated
The records generated
during the process are
filled in the circulating
file.The content of the
circulating file is as listed
below.
Tech pack
Pattern check report
Cutter must
PDM Cutting section
Cutting instruction sheet
for PPS or QRS
confirmation
sampleSample indent and
trim card
PDM Sewing section

GARMENT PACKAGE TEST

SAMPLE

Fusing report
Stitching and QA check
list
Sewing instruction sheet
Internal QA review sheet
Once the garment sent to
the buyer , the
coordinators shift the file
contents of the circulating
file back to the master file
The above process are
continued till the approval
of fit sample
Merchandiser will give
indent for GPT Samples
for the required raw
materials and trim cards
Coordinators check and
confirm from the store
that all required materials
suitables for making the
GPT before accepting the
indent
Coordinators make the
plan in the system for
cutting , sewing and QA
for making GPT sample
GPT sample is made as
per the work instructions
Once the GPT sample is
ready,same is received by
internal QA
After approval of the
sample from the internal
QA , GPT sample is
handed over to concern

merchandiser and details

are recorded in the
outgoing register
PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE

Merchandisers will give

indent for PPS samples
and arrange for the
required raw materials,
trim card and shrinkage
reports
Coordinator check and
confirm from the Godown
that all the required
materials available for
making the PPS before
accepting the indent
PPS is made by using the
final fit approved pattern
Coordinators make the
plan in the system for
cutting,sewing and QA for
making the PPS Samples,
samples are made as per
the work instructions
Based on sample
completion date
coordinatos intimate the
date to merchandiser to
invite buyer QA for final
inspection
The samples are reviwed
by the internal QA
Internal QA approved
sample is packed as per
the buyer specification
before offering samples to
buyer QA for inspection

SIZE SET

Before offering PPS to

Buyer QA ,it is ensure
that passed GPT report
and buyers signed off trim
card is available
The sealer sample is
reviewed by buyer QA
either in sampling dept or
at buying house
depending on the buyer
requirement
The sealed PPS is
distributed with review
report to.
Concerned production
unit through PPC dept .
Buyer QA
Merchandisers give the
indent for making size set
samples along with
shrinkage report and trim
card
The pattern makers make
pattern size set pattern
based on final graded
specs as per the work
instructions
Coordinators make the
plan in system for
cutting,sewing and QA for
making size set sample
Based on sample
completion date
coordinators intimate the
date to merchandiser to
invite buyer QA for final
insection.

QUALITY REFFERENCE
SAMPLE(QRS)

Sample are made as per

the work station.
Once the sample are
ready,internal QA inspects
the samples as per the
work instruction.
In case of urgency, the
size set patterns are sent
to the production unit
based on internal review
report and or their
approval from concerned
technician
Before offering size set to
buyer QA the following to
be ensured
PPS to be used
Buk shrinkage report to be
available
After approval of size set
sample from buyer QA
Size set report to be
handed over to
merchandisers
Samples are sent to unit
through Production
Planning Dept
Merchandisers give indent
for QRS sample and
arrange for the required
raw materials along with
shrinkage report and trim
card.
Coordinator check and
confirm the godown that all
required materials
available for making QRS

WASH PROGRAMME

before accepting the

indent.
Coordinators make the
plan in the system. For
cutting , sewing and QA for
making size set sample
QRS is made by using the
final approved pattern
sample is made as per the
work instruction
The sample is reviewed by
internal QA as per the work
instruction
The reviewed sample is
offered for inspection to
certified QA
After inspection the
certified Auditor forwards
samples to laison office for
final inspection and sealing
Incase of rejection , the
samples are remade and re
offered
For style with wash
programme,the stitched
garments are reviewed by
the internal QA.The
mutual QA records the
Before wash
measurements
The garments are sent to
the washing unit
After receiving the
garments from wash, the
supervisor gets it
trimmed.After washing
programme they will

attach buttons , snaps and

then garments are ironed
The garments are then
reviewedby the internal
QA and after the wash
measurements are
recorded
The garments are then
being offered to the buyer
QA packed and sent as
done for the non-wash
styles

Planning

is a very important step towards success. Planning is about

what to do, when to do and how to do.
The Production planning control in S E H deals with the proper
synchronization of the whole workflow of the orders received. Each order
placed with the company is assigned to a team, which works upon the
inflow of the fabric to the despatch of the garment. The PPC plays a
major role in the scheduling the dates of inflow and outflow. It not only
manages the in-house production but equally responsible for outsourcing.
Quality, quantity is maintained by the follow up of the PPC department
and each buyer gets the required attention from the company.
PURPOSE OF THE DEPT
To plan out the orders in a systematic manner according to the
priority.
Follow up of the material , especially in packing
After receiving the orders ,allocating them and providing details to
the respective units on PCD, Order quantity,Samples and additional
process details.
KEY FUNCTIONS OF THE DEPARTMENTS
After receiving the orders, allocating the styles to the particular
units
Providing details to the respective unit on the PCD,Order
quantity,Samples and Additional process detail
Taking the inputs from IED about SAM
Confirm the details given to the concerned units in consultation with
GM and FM
Confirm in consultation with embroidery ansd washing department
Confirm order plan with merchandising team

 Planning follow up with factory till order execution

KEY POINTS FOR PLANNING

PCD and delivery date of particular order
Line opening in batches
Machine layout
Manpower available
Capacity planning which contains all relev ent informations
pertaining to the style
Material requirement plan
Follow up with merchant for fabric soucing, purchase, store etc

PROCESS FLOW
Three months booking is done for forthcoming orders. A complete
planning is carried out. The planning can be of three months,
fortnightly or monthly, but monthly planning is a must. Planning is
done to freeze the lines for the coming orders. Lines are decided
according to different styles.
Planning for the whole production is done like cutting plan
embroidery plan, sewing plan. The batches are not affected if the
planning is perfect. A feeding buffer for thee days is always kept
ready.
Higher productivity level is tried to be maintained. It is achieved by
motivating the workers to give better output.
They commit the delivery date to merchandiser who in turn confirms
with the buyer.
An earlier date is given in all depts. For delivery. It helps in keeping
few days in hand to avoid any late shipments.

ORDER CLARITY MEETING

After confirming an order, order clarity meeting is held.
The lead times, fabric sourcing, fabric status is discussed with the
merchandiser.
The Project Cut Date (PCD) is decided.
The consumption in the pilot roll is checked. If it is high, then
there is more consumption.
Important personnel from different depts. get together for this
meeting like Costing, Merchandising, Purchase, and Cutting, IED
and Maintenance, Planning and Production Head.
PRE-PRODUCTION MEETING
This meeting is held one week before PCD.
By this time all the fabric and accessories is sourced except
packing trims.
The reference sample and the original one is brought in. all the
doubts about accessories and fabric are cleared.

ONLINE PACKING
As the name suggests, it is planned such that the daily
production at the end of the day is finished and packed
also.
There will be no need to wait for the whole bulk. As soon
as 100 or an hours production is out, it is packed
instantly.
Here, feeding is very important.

 Online packing will help in reaching the targets more

easily and planning will be more effective.
Lesser deviation in planning will lead to timely delivery of
goods and increase in reputation of the company.

IED deals wiyh different dept, each dept performs a specific

functions.
1.Planning dept
*Calculate SAM for capacity booking
2. Merchandising dept
*Calculate productivity for given style for
initial
costing.
*Calculate accessories consumption
3. Sampling dept
*R&D of new styles at sample development stage
4. HR Dept
*Recruiting workers
*Training operators and multi skill training.
*Calculate incentive scheme
5. Production dept
*Prepare style bulletin using GSD.
*Analyze and estimate man power requirement.
*Set a target to each batch
*Efficiency is calculated to their work
*Daily batch efficiency and monthly follow ups for
maintaining quality and quantity control.
*Fixing grade of operators for encouraging purpose
*Batch costing
*Conducting production review meetings with operation
team to improve the productivity.
*Hourly production tracking in cutting, sewing and
finishing
*Defects tracking through SPC.
*Reducing bottle neck operation by proper line
balancing.
*Time study and method study to improve efficiency.
*Provide skill matrix while line setting.
*Brain storming sessions.

PURPOSE OF THE DEPARTMENT

Industrial Engineering is the technical team which innovates
different methods to minimize the wasting of time, manpower,
machionery ect.
This department gives the training for the freshers and recruit them
in the batch(production) according to their capacity.
Co-operates the planning by calculating SAM for capacity booking.
Keeps the followup with the production to avoid any deviation or
problems in production.
KEY FUNCTIONS OF THE DEPARTMENT
Calculating the SAM and hand overing it to the planning dept for
capacity booking
Calculating productivity of particular style for initial costing
Calculating the accessory consumption
Preparing style bulletin for particular style using GSD and setting
the batch
Setting target to the batch as well as per production
Calculating the efficiency&daily,monthly follow up
Fixing the grade to the operator
Preparing the batch costing
To improve the productivity hourly production tracking in
cutting,sewing and finishing
Tracking the defect though the SPC
Reducing bottle neck operations by proper line balance
Doing Time study.Method study and Motion study
Providing skill matrix while line setting
If the operator are not showing efficiency in their work,make them
to do their work with challenge by the application of brain stoming
sessions

RECRUITMENT
THE WORKERS RECRUITMENT AND SELECTION
When the freshers will come to join the batch,HR people will conduct
personal interview and IED Trining people will conduct some sort of
test to realize their capacity in handling,movement of their
fingers,body movement.Normally 5 tests are conducted like KSDS
which is to measure the frequency of co-ordination of hands, KSD
which measures the visual activities, BALL AND TUBE which
measures entire co-ordination of body to do particular work with full
of concentration, PIN BOARD which measures the accuracy of
fingers to handle little complicated work.
Then thy are given different grade likeA,B,C
depending on their work efficiency with minimum time.
So,the selected people will undergo training
for the period of 30-40 days.
TRAINING
KINDS OF TRAINING GIVEN TO THE FRESHERS
As the fresher maynot be experienced in garment industry, first
they need to go under training to get the control on machine and its
speed.
DIFFERENT TYPES OF TRAINING ARE
MACHINE PEDDLING: This has been done for a time gap to get the
control on the machine for the worker.
PAPER EXERCISE: Trainee need to do the stitch on paper according
to line given like straight line,curved line,zigzag line to prepare the
trainee for more accuracy.
The exercise like needle down turn,judging stops and turns to
prepare the trainee for critical operations
After that,fabric exercise has been given as same as the above.

KIND OF TRAINING GIVEN TO THE OLD EMPLOYEES

Multiskill operations as they are experienced in a particular
task,making them to improve in different tasks.
METHOD STUDY
Method study is a systematic and scientific evaluation of existing and
purposed plans and performance of any work system
The following are the steps involved in method study:
SELECT:Analysis of the job
RECORD: Record by means of charts and diagrams all relevant facts
about the present method.
EXAMINE:Critical examinations of all facts.
DEVELOP:An efficient and economical metod.
DEFINE:The new method be introduced.
INSTALL:Installation of the new method as standard practice.
MAINTAIN:Maintaining the standard practice
Purpose:This is to identify the right procedure to operate the
perticular operations in a well limited timeless stress to both operator
and machine
Here the physique movement of the operator from the
place where he /she kept the cut components and the operator places
the stitched components and noted down the physical performance the
operator did sequentially in the two handed process chart formatt and
this formatt contain the work place design,attachments and guides if any
with the machine, the name of the parts being stitched and the place
where it is kept.

TIME STUDY
STANDARD OPERATOR
Fully trained and motivated to perform a defined task having a define
method snd it is by dimension average interms of his her work place.
RATING
Rating is the process used by the industrial engineer to compare the
actul performance of the operator with his or her mental concept of
normal performance.
SAM=(OT*R)*(HMD%)*(HRA%)+BHT(HRA%)
OT=Observed Time
R =Rutting(For a standard operator utilisation)
OT*R=BM=Basic Minute
MD=Machine Delay allowance
RA =Relaxation allowance ORP&A= Personal*Fatigue allowance.
BHT=Bundle Handling Time
OT= Single Edge time
MD%= Machine allowance
SNLS=12.5%
DNLS=17.5%
3TOL=7%
5TOL=9%
FOA=10%
Flut lock=10%
4RC/S=12.5%,4 RAW CHAIN STITCH
SNCS=5.5%
PA%=20%(STD)RA%
BHT=0.02 min (small piece)=0.03min(large piece)
TIME STUDY SEQUENCES

 Check the records for operative to usually perform the operation

Check with supervisors,meet with operatives and explain what you
are going to do
Carry out an outline method study on each operative
Define the element and select the operatives for the time study
Time and rate
Use the observed rating and times together with the allowance to
calculate the standard time for the operations.
Update the records
Install the rates

THE TIME STUDY USED FOR FOLLOWING JOBS

Training into target for operatives

Balancing of lines
Making capacity cheks
Checking the effeciency of one method for element against other.
Costing benefits of work aids and new machioneries
Explaining payment system
Work closely with work study dept
Production planning
Setting intermediate examination points
Interpreting the production date on which the effeciency is judged

HOW TO CALCULATE THE CAPACITY OF AN OPERATOR

Capacity in %=Target Single Cycle Time/Actual Single Cycle Time
Target Single Cycle Time=SAM-BHT/MD*P&F allowances
SAM=Standard Allowed Minutes
BHT=Bundle Handling Time
MD=Machine Delay

P&FA=Personal and Fatigue Allowances

BUNDLE HANDLING TIME:
Small parts: 0.024 mins
Medium parts: 0.029 mins
Big parts: 0.036 mins
Capacity in pieces/Hour=Capacity in % *60/SAM
Note:If you wants to calculate the capacity per day, instead of 60 you put
480
CALCULATION OF SAM
SAM=[(OT*RATING)+MD+P&F]+[(BHT*RATING)+P&F]
SAM=[OT*RATING*MD*P&F]+BHT
OT = Observed Time
MD =Machine Delay
THREAD CONSUMPTION FORMULA
MACHINE

NEEDLE THREAD
VALUE
SNLS/SNEC/SNLSW/UBT 0.5*3
DNLS]
0.5*3
FOA
0.25*11
KANSAI SPECIAL
0.25*11
3TOL
0.2*16
5TOL
0.2*22

VALUE BOBIN
THREAD
05*3
0.5*6
0.75*11
0.75*11
0.8*16
0.8*22

THREAD CONSUMPTION=SEAM LENGTH*THREAD VALUE

For example: If the machine is SNLS and the seam length of the
particular operation is 25 cms,the thread consumption formula is ,
Thread consumption= 25*0.5*3(needle thread)

=25*0.5*3(bobin thread)

This department takes care of the purchase of following items

a. Building project.
b. Canteen.
c. Chemicals.
d. Consumables.
e. Furniture & fittings.
f. House keeping.
g. Lab equipment.
h. R&M m/c.
i. Medicines.
j. Office equipments.
k. Packing.
l. Pack accessories.
m.
hardware.
n. Printing & stationary (office).
o. Printing & stationary (production).
p. Production consumable.
q. R&M electrical.
r. Staff welfare.
s. Temple.
t. Threads.

PROCESS FLOW

Paint

&

 These requirements are sent from various departments through a

material requisition slip. (MRS)
There is a fix coordinator between the purchase department and
other departments through whom MRS is sent.
In case of urgent requirements MRS is sent through mails.
For purchase they raise a quotation from 2-3 or more suppliers and
select the best quote.
After this, a purchase order is raised, which describes the product
quantity and quality.
The materials are directly delivered to the respective units or to the
head office as per the requirements.
In case of materials, which have to be imported, the MRS is sent to
Delhi office.
Issues such as insurance, transportation, freight, tax for the transfer
of goods from the supplier is usually paid by SHAHI.
When the goods are received, goods received and accepted note
(GRM) is issued by the stores dept. after which the payment is
made to the supplier.
Till then no advance payment is made.
The cheques are sent to the reception and the supplier collects the
cheques from there.
No bank transfers are being made from the buyers a/c to suppliers
a/c in order to manage risk.
The P.O (purchase order) is usually confirmed by mailing or by
telephone message.

It provides fabrics to two process

Sampling.
Bulk.
SAMPLING

Technical analysis takes place.

Selection of vendor.
Placement.
Lab Dip.
If it is ok submitted to buyer else redo lab dip.
Sampling yardage.
Lab test is done and send for final approval from buyer
Redo lab dip if ok wet processing is done.
Placement.
Lab dips/strike off
Submit to buyer.
Rate finalization takes place.
Sampling yardage.
Lab test.
Final submission to buyer.

BULK
Receiving order.

Process starts for product development.

Vendor selection.
Rate quotation from different mill.
Execution plan is done.
Placement of order.
Production is done by huge group of member.
Online inspection is done, if ok lab testing as per buyer requirement,
else technical monitor.
Dispatches to vendor godown.
Washing process, it is an optional.
If washing process is not required then third party inspection as per
standard if not ok then reject, or else dispatch to destination.
Inward/ store/ document analysis.
Random inspection feedback by fabric audit to sourcing.
Vendors evaluation to vendor.
If washing process required sanforising, dyeing, printing, wet
processing.
Lab test is done as per buyer requirement.
Then the process is similar from third part inspection.

PROCESS FLOW
The marketing dept. gives a sample indent to the sourcing dept.
which contains details regarding the fabrics, count of the yarn, GSM,
washing instructions, colour, structure of the fabric, and the required
quantity.
The sourcing dept. is responsible for sourcing the yarn as specified
by the buyers.
It is also responsible for sending the yarns for knitting.
The yarn procured is given to Tirupur for knitting on a job order
basis.
70% of the yarns are procured from Gujurat, Nahar, Ludhiana and
Mumbai.
There is a sourcing team in Tirupur who are responsible for knitting
the garments. While sourcing the fabrics the losses that may occur

while knitting and sewing are taken into account and hence 5%
extra fabric is ordered.
A 100% inspection is done in Tirupur for the knitted fabrics. A copy of
the inspection report is sent to the fabric inspection department, which
would give an idea of the quality of the fabrics

OBJECTIVES:

Verification of quality and quantity.

Decides the accessories to be accepted or rejected.
Accessories are stored.
Accessories are issued to units.

PROCESS FLOW
1. Source input from
Import.
Faridabad- All trims except packing material.
Domestic or local.
2. Accept and receive materials against documents.
3. Prepare pre GRN.
4. Verify material against invoice and packing list.
5. Carry out quality and quantity inspection as per AQL 1.5.
6. Rejection information to in charge after AQL test.
7. Allocation of trims based on the nature of the item.
8. Do the bill entry. The same to be forwarded to accounts for payment.
9. Process selection takes according to the following order
Prepare work order.
Prepare delivery challan.
Forward trims along with document for processing.
10. Production issues as follows,
Identify trims which has been approved by merchant.

 Prepare delivery challan and keep the trims ready to issue to the
factory.
Materials to be issued after inspected by security against DC.

RAW MATERIAL DEPARTMENT

SALIENT FEATURES
The raw material department is situated in a huge goddown, with
sufficient space for transportation of fabric.
90 % of fabric is sourced from SEH-Tirupur. Only 10 % of the fabric
is sourced from outside.
Raw material department consists of the following :
o Fabric Store room
o Accessories Store Room.
o Quality Checking Room
o Main office of the raw material department.
RECORDS MAINTAINED

Goods Receipt Note

Balance Sheet of goods receipt
JO Details for accessories
Accessories Balance Sheet
External fabric Issue
Accessory Issue Details
Lorry Receipt Entry
Inward Register
Order Completion Report

GOODS RECEIPT NOTE

This is made for the new fabric, which is received, from fabric sourcing
unit.
G.R.N. No.
D.C. No.
L.R. No.
Bill No.
Bill value
Supplier
PO Type
PO No.

G.R.N. Date
D.C. Date
L.R. Date
Bill Date
Fabric Code
Fabric Color
Width
Rcvd. Qty.
Shrinkage

JO DETAILS FOR ACCESSORIES

This is made for all the job orders of a particular style.
Style No.
Order
No.

Del.
Date

Fabric

Buyer
Color

Order
Qty.

Party

EXTERNAL FABRIC ISSUE

This is complete GRN, goods receipt note from the first day of receiving
the fabric till the last day for a particular style.
Receipt
No./type
& date

Refr. PO
type &
No.

Company

Vendor
Code

LR No.

Fabric
Qty.

ACCESSORY ISSUE DETAILS

This is made after issuing the accessories to the sub-store to mention the
balance.
Order #
Acc.
Code

Size
Code

Description

DC No.

DC
Date

Qty.

Party

LORRY RECEIPT ENTRY

This mentions the total LR quantity, vendors name with its code. This
gives complete details of the lorry arrived with the fabric.
LR No.
LR receipt date
Transporter
Challan No.
Vendor Code
Remarks

LR Date
Short Close Date
Place of Delivery
Challan Date
Vendor Date

Total LR
Quantity
Total Bale
Quantity

INWARD REGISTER
It is done immediately when a new stock is received. It is weighed and
the bale no. is given to each roll. It also mentions the quality and the
width area.
Vendor Name
Receipt Date
LR No.
LR Date
Invoice/DC No.
Sr. Bale Qty. Lot Buyer Style Fabric Quality Width Remarks
No. No.
No. Name No. Color
Area

OBJECTIVES
1. Analysis of defects in the fabric by various methods.
2. Selection of fabric according to AQL1.5.
PROCESS FLOW
Receive fabrics from stores and then pass in to various tests.
Conduct shrinkage tests on minimum two bits/bale or minimum of 10
bits of consignment.
Forward 1 meter of each consignment for lab test.
Verify whether quantity received match with quantity.
If quantity does not matches inform to stores and prepare goods
received notes
Inspection is based on 4 point system. Match bulk with approved dye
lot, width of fabric etc.
4 point checking system
Size of defect- 0-3 1 point yellow
0-6 2 point green
0-9 3 point navy
>9 4 point red
If the defect is within AQL forward to cutting dept.
If the defect is above AQL name shades lot as ABC.
Send the fabrics to merchants for buyer approval.
If buyer agrees send those to cutting dept or else reject the fabric.

INSPECTION PROCEDURE
1.every fabric has to be check for 15% in case of it fails some more
quality has to be inspected.
2.the fabric is inspected in full width.
3.all fabric inspect under the 4 point inspection system penalty points are
assigned based on the standard fault size(internationally accepted).for
every type of faults colored stickers are put identify Serious defects in
the subsequent process.
Faults description under the 4 points inspection system
Fault size

Points assigned

Sticker color

0 inch to 3 inch

One(1)

Yellow

3 inch to 6 inch

Two(2)

Green

6 inch to 9 inch

Three(3)

Blue

Above 9 inch

Four(4)

Red

Once the inspection process completed penalty points per 100 sq.yards is
calculated as follows,
Total no of points x 3300
Fabric quality in meters x widtg in inches.
Any linear yards maximum of 4 points can be awarded.

FABRIC & THEIR CODES

A WAFFLE
B WAFFLE
C CHAMBRAY
D DENIM
E SEER SUCKER
F POPLIN
G VELVET
H OXFORD / CANVAS
I CHECKS
J CORDROY
K TWILL with PRINT
L HERRYING BONE
M KWITTED
N 1005 POLYSTER
O BLENDED
P TWILL Y/D
Q FLAX / LINEN
R CREAPE
S LYCRA
T POLY / NYLON
U GRGT
V DAMASK
W WOLLEN
X VIOLE

Y RAYON
Z NYLON

SHADE SEGREGATION PROCEDURE

Cut 1/4th meters of stripe across the width of each roll or

take a line all the cut piece & make into family or group & declare
shades.

Align all the cut pieces & make into the family & declare
shades.

While going shade segregation,color matching done by using

paramount colors matching cabinate which is provided with D65,TL84,CWF,UV,INCA light sources

Send shade bands or lot bands to concern merchandisers

sourcing department & cutting department for approval or
reference.

Send shade details to concern department.

Light source used for shade segregation

Sl.no
1

Buyer name
A&F

GAP

MALLISTER

CHO

DECATHLON

KOHLS

Primary light

Secondary light

INCA

D 65

CWF

INCA

TL84

D65

VETIR

JCP

H&M

10

GVMBOREE

11

TARGET

12

SEARS

13

TOMMY HILFIGER

14

WALLMART

15

AMERICAN EAGLE

16

ESPRIT EUROPES

D65

TL84

TL83
UL 30

D65

CWS
D65
D65

INCA

GRADING
Grading of a pattern is a science. This subject can be undertaken
after having learnt the drafting of patterns. The pattern requires
knowledge of human proportions.
Accuracy of the diagram is the most essential thing in factories.
Grading of pattern is adopted in factories & in wholesale of garment
manufacturers to obtain different sized patterns.

Grading of a paper patterns means obtaining different pattern for

different sizes by a specific method to save time without separately
working out & actual calculations involved in establishing those patterns.
But the shape & curve of the pattern is maintained proportionally.
Before grading a medium sized paper pattern must be cut accurately.
Grading of a pattern is generally applicable in regular figures. When the
measurements are proportionally increased or decreased according to
smaller to larger sizes.
The grading can also be extended to irregular figures. The only condition
for this is that the set of measures for a corpulent figure for which the
pattern is to be graded should be increased or decreased proportionally.

GRADING SIZES
Pattern like garment must provide for different sizes. Grading is the
method used to increase or decrease the sample size production. Pattern
is makeup a complete size range. for example the sample size 10

patterns must be made larger to accommodate size 12,14&16 and

smaller for sizes 8 & 6.each company sets predetermined grade
specification or riles. For example a missy manufacturers grade rule
might call for increments of one and a half inches in width and a quarter
inch in length for each size.

Today most manufacturers grade patterns, on CAD SYSTEM. The pattern

maker guides a cursor around the edge of the sample pattern on a digital
table. At each of the key points he or she pushes a button to record a
grade point. Each point is cross referenced by a grade rule table stored in
the computer, which enlarges or reduces the pattern automatically.
According to the predetermined increments & in a predetermined
direction. if computer originally made the pattern, data are already in the
computer & can be enlarged or reduced automatically. Preprogrammed
grade rules for increase or decrease are automatically applied to the
pieces at each grading location. Then the computer often uses an outside
service to make patterns, grade patterns & make the marker.

DIGITIZING PATTERNS
Most of the companies using CAD, CAM systems at the present time
not using the PDS (pattern Design Systems) for pattern cutting. They
their pattern for a design manually. Therefore to grade the pattern on
system perimeter of the pattern has to be fed into computers
digitizing the contour.

are
cut
the
by

However the grade points and the grade rule numbers can be input at
the same time.
The pattern is placed on the digitizer and the pattern profile is entered
into computer by use of a cursor. The centre of the cross hairs of the
cursor is placed on points to be recorded. These points are grade points
and other point defines the curves or corners. When a cursor button is
pressed, signals are sent to the computers which are then translated into
numerical record of the information for the piece. The cursor has number

of buttons which allow the appropriate grade rule numbers to be typed

into the system on the relevant points as the pattern profile is digitized.

MARKER PLANNING
The industry was always paid great attention to marker planning,
because when the cutting room cut the fabric means it spends around
half of the companys turnover. In this section supervisor allot the work
to every operator to develop the marker planning. The entire component
patterns are should be correctly placed on the marker plan with regards
to the grain line direction indicated on the pattern piece. In the gap paid
adjust the small component pattern. if it is satisfied ,paid the marker
efficiency then making on the cloth with using by marker chalk.

MAIN REQUIREMENT OF MARKER PLAN

the nature of the fabric and the result in the finished garment
the requirement of quality in cutting.
The requirement of production planning.
The design characteristics of the finished garment.
Symmetry or asymmetry.(one way or either way)
Pattern alignment in relation to the grain of the fabric.
Fabric requirement.
All the detail of cutting.

MARKER MAKING
Once the spreading is done, a brown sheet is placed over the lay and
fabric clips are placed at various edges to prevent the slipping of layers.
The CAD planner sheet is given to the operator and accordingly the
paper patterns are placed on the lay as per CAD planning sheet. When
the entire marker is placed over the brown sheet. Now the marker

pattern is collected & packed in the poly bag and kept in the pattern
library for further reference.

Similarly, for using and inter-linings the marker making is done.

CAD DEPARTMENT
(COMPUTER AIDED DESIGN)
Basically CAD is a software tool for pattern engineering, grading and
marker planning for minimizing fabric consumption and improving quality
and productivity.
Digitizers and plotters are used for drawing the patterns. The plotter
used is ASSYST BULLMER PLOTTER...
Apart from pattern grading basic function of cad dept. is to calculate the
fabric consumption per garment according to the specifications given by
the sampling dept.
While plotting the general rule followed is to give a margin of 1 along
the length of the fabric for the seam allowance and also for the variations
in the dia of the fabric.
The size ratio for plotting is either given by the buyer in the tech pack, in
its absence it is calculated by the CAD dept. the size ratio would depend
on the fabric diameters that are being ordered for, by the sourcing dept.
Two types of cutting are followed
1. Manual cutting.
2. CAM (computer aided m/c).

CAD dept. is responsible for the CAM m/c, CAM understands different
software hence the original data has to be converted to that software
base. CAM is used for open width fabrics; hence usually fleece fabric is
being cut using CAM.
Software used marker planning is TUKA DESIGN.

CAD ROOM INFRASTRUCTURE

1.four CAD systems loaded with tech tech & speedy cut softwares.
2. one high speed plotter with the speed of ..
3.one digitizer.
CAD room will perform:
1.digitizing
2.grading
3.marker making
4.cut file generation
5.marker & pattern plotting

OPTITEX SOFTWARE

OptiTex specializes in the development of innovative, easy-to-operate

2D and 3D Fashion Design Software. Their Microsoft Windows based
Fashion Design Software packages for digitizing, pattern engineering,
grading, marking, and advanced automatic nesting are specifically
designed to meet the needs of today`s manufacturers of industrial
fabrics, apparel, upholstery, transportation, composites, home
furnishings, and other sewn products.
OptiTex open architecture system comes amply equipped with a
multitude of import/export formats enabling OptiTex users to interface
with a wide range of software and hardware. Customers enjoy the
benefits of selecting hardware that fits their company`s needs in terms
of performance and price. OptiTex also offers the convenient option of
purchasing a completely integrated CAD package including OptiTex
software solutions, digitizer, and pen or ink jet plotter.
OptiTex Fashion Design Software products are sold and supported
around the world through certified distributors and OEMs. OptiTex
Fashion Design Software solutions are currently available in nineteen
languages, with more to come.
PATTERN
DESIGN
SYSTEM (PDS)

GRADE

MARK

OptiTexs PDS
software includes
the entire range
of pattern
making tools one
would use for
manually drafting
patterns on the

Grade is
designed to
make
cumbersome
grading painless.
Easy-to-operate
software
combined with

OptiTexs
manual,
automatic and
interactive
marker making
generates nested
layouts at
lightening speed

NEST++

Nest++
incorporates the
highest level of
artificial
intelligence for
nesting. The
sophisticated
algorithms of

table yet
presents them to
the user in very
accessible and
easy to use
toolboxes.

sophisticated
grading features
makes even
difficult grading
swift and
accurate.

while minimizing
material waste.
OptiTex Mark
module is
designed to
maximize
productivity.

Nest++ deliver
comparable and
often better
results than
achieved by the
human eye.

Modulate is a
Made to Measure
software
developed to
custom fit sewn
products for the
apparel,
upholstered
furniture,
industrial
products and
transportation
interior
industries.

OptiTex
introduces
Match++, totally
automatic
matched fabric
nesting system
along with
OptiTex version
8. Match ++ is
the result of
long-lasting
research &
experience in the
cut and sew
industry.

The OptiTexDigitize software

was specifically
designed to be
modular, so it
can be added to
OptiTex software
as required. With
OptiTex-Digitize
software, all the
pattern data
required.

Import/Export
makes SGSOptiTex software
the most flexible
CAD system for
sewn products on
the market today
and assures
communication
with the rest of
the world.

CONVERT I

CONVERT II

CONVERT III

Converter I is a
compact software
package that
reads and
converts native

Converter II is a
compact software
package that
reads and
converts native

Converter III is a
compact software
package that
reads and
converts native

Gerber (GGT)
Piece, Model and
Order data
directly into
OptiTex.

Investronica
Piece, Model and
Order data
directly into
OptiTex.

Lectra Piece,
Model and Order
data directly into
OptiTex.

PROCESS FLOW

Fabric received in fabric stores is first issued to cutting sub stores.

Cutting room receives fabric from sub stores after receiving the
order sheet from PPC.

Fabric received note is made immediately after receiving the fabric.

Lot number is mentioned with the quality of the lots and expected
pieces from each lot.

The lot is issued to workers after making fabric issue note with
expected number of pieces from each lot.

Because of less storage space in cutting room, only immediate order

to be layed is issued from stores to cutting room.

Fabric received is first relaxed for minimum of 8 hrs.

In wash program, the fabric is sent for washing called panel wash. It
is done before spreading.

The fabric is cut into bits, this process is known as biting.

These bits are then sent for washing to unit 7.

For open width fabric, 2, 3 5 ways markers are made, but for
tubular fabric mostly one-way marker is cut.

There will be a cutting master for every three table, usually. Cutting
master guides operators while spreading and marker making.

In cutting room, cutters only make the marker and cut, hence they
are trained to lay the marker and adjust patterns accordingly.

Supervisor checks for placed markers, number of pieces cut, and

whether the target for the day is achieved or not. If not the
operators have to work for extra hours to finish the target.

In Non-Wash program, lays are spread directly after relaxing the

fabric.

Defects are marked by placing a paper while laying, and are been
immediately replaced after cutting. Another practice is also followed
while cutting. If the defect comes then that area is spliced and the
defect is placed at the edge in the tubular fabric, by turning it on
the edge.

After spreading, the lay record issued to operators is filled by them,

mentioning details about color, fabric, style, fabric structure, marker
mode, lay length, no. of pieces, lot number, and sign of cutting
master and quality supervisor.

Band knife cutting is done small parts for accurate cutting, and
sometimes a block of bigger parts is cut out and then the part is cut
on band knife.

Cut patterns are then checked randomly

Then, numbering is done for the pieces from the same lot.

On the top of the lay of cut garments, a bundling sticker is placed

In cut check panel, bundling and numbering is crosschecked.

Bundles are sent to dispatch then.

Lay record is them transferred to the production writer, who in turn

transfer the record into the system preparing a report called knits
cutting report, which has al details about cutting and dispatching. It
is maintained date wise and the balance pieces are also taken into
account.

DISPATCH
After bundling, bundles are sent for dispatching. Number of pieces
cut and number of pieces dispatched is clearly mentioned on a
record.
Total number of pieces cut should be bundled and dispatched on the
same day itself.
This section send the input to sewing section, a document is
maintained for issuing the bundles to sewing department
RECORDS MAINTAINED IN THE CUTTING ROOM
Lay record
Knits Cutting report
Cutting balance report
Daily report style wise
Spreading and cutting checking report

LAY RECORD
This is issued to layers immediately after the issue of the lot. The
operators should maintain the details and their name.
Lay Record
Unit
PO#
Style#
Cut#
Size
Ratio
Lay lgth.m.
M/C#
Ways
Manual
Fabric Width Marked
..Inches Width
Cut Q.C.
.Inches Dated
Entry by
No. Of plies
FOR CAD USE ONLY
To spread
To cut
Tag File#
Shrinkage: L% W.. Note:
%
Fabric Code Fabric Color (Signature)
Fabric Swatch
(Signature)

Date
Code

Remarks
Embroidery parts:

Meters used for recutting

m

CUTTING REPORT
This report is submitted to PPC every morning. It shows the current
balance pieces to be cut in a particular style.
STYLE WISE CUTTING REPORT
PO
Style Color Size S
M

XL

XXL

Total

No.

DAILY CUTTING REPORT

This is prepared on the system. A complete review of the style
mentioning the amount cut size wise, no. of plies, width etc.
Daily report of cutting on system style wise
Cut Production Lay
No.
No.
Width S
No. Date

Length Of

XL

XXL

Of

ways Plies

THE SPREADING OF THE FABRIC TO FORM A LAY

The objective of spreading is to place the number of plies of fabric that
the production planning process has delicate to the length of the

marker plan in the colors required , currently aligned as to length and

width without tension.

THE REQUIREMENT OF SPREADING PROCESS

Spreading must achieve a number of specific objectives:
Shade sorting of cloth pieces:
Lays commonly require more than one roll of fabric to achieve
enough plies to total. It is likely that cloth pieces that are same
color wont have an exact shade match. a garment made from
parts cut from these different pieces would be likely to show a
shade effect between in different panels .thus when deliveries of
S number of rolls of cloths of the same color are received they
should be sorted into batches such that shade differences
between them are undetectable.
Correctly ply direction and adequate lay stability:
The various type of fabric in terms of surface direction, that is
available, designed either way, one way-either way or one way
only, have been described above for one way-either way, and one
way only fabrics, where the patterns pieces have been positioned
in a particular direction in the plan, is it essential that the fabric
is spread in a way that maintain that direction.
Alignment of ply:
Should comprise at least the length and width of the marker
plan, but should have the minimum possible outside those
measurements.
The nature of textile material:
Is such that the pieces of fabric as delivered from suppliers vary
in width both from pieces and to lesser extent within single
pieces. the marker plan is made to fill the narrowest width. The

surplus width of the fabric is distributed outside the edge of the

marker plan. In addition, the ends of the plies must be cut off
square allowing the smallest possible loss at both ends.
COMPUTERISED SPREADING AND CUTTING
a crane moves a roll of fabric into the hopper (fabric feeding device) of a
spreading machine.convetionally a spreader machine is guided along a
table,lying fabric on the cutting table,with the length determined by the
marker.the fabric is cut at the end.the machine turns to other end & the
next layer is laid face up on the top of first,in the same direction & the
next layer is laid face up on the top of the first,in the same
direction.fabric is spread on the cutting table with one ply on the top of
another ,so that many layers can be cut at the same time.the number of
layers is prescribed by the cutting order.fabric is inspected as it is
spread.spreaders must be aware of how fabric finish ,pile strips,floral
designs& other factors effect their work.more than 200 layers may be cut
at one time,depending on the fabric thickness.thinner fabric may be more
difficult to handle & are cut in lower strakes for more control.
Spreading can be done automatically with a computer programmed
spreading machine.in this case,a motorized spreader moves
automatically up & down the table,unwinding up to 80 yards of fabric per
minute.a automatically controlled cutter reduces the labors & improves
the accuracy of the cut.a beam structure across the table , unwinding up
to 80 yards of fabric per minutes.
INFRASTRUCTURE OF SPREADING AND CUTTING ROOM
1.air floatation tables of 40 meters long 6Nos.
2.laying tables with 20 meters length 10 Nos.
3.auto spereaders (F.K arena) 5 Nos.
4.CAM fitting machines(make F.K arena) 3 nos.
5.band knife machines 3 Nos.

Adnantages of cutting room over traditional cutting rooms:

1.grading & marker making with the help of advanced softwares
eliminates human error.
2.auto spreading enables spreading with uniform tension , prevents lay
learning.
3.in CAM cutting,

Uniform vaccum pressure holds the lay while cutting firmly.

Turning radius of knife is less , which will produce better

quality corners and curves.

Auto sharpening ensures smooth & accurate cutting throught

the lay.
All these will enhance the precision of cutting.
REQUIREMENTS OF CUTTING
The objectives of cutting are to separate fabric parts as replicas
of the pattern pieces in the marker plan. In achieving this
objective, certain requirements must be fulfilled.
Precision of cut:
Garments cannot be assembled satisfactorily, and they may not
fit the body correctly, if they have been cut accurately to the
pattern shape. In manual cutting using a knife, accuracy of cut
depend on appropriate, well maintained cutting knifes and on the
skill, motivation of the cutter. in both die cutting and computercontrolled cutting, the achievement of accuracy comes from the
equipment.
Clean edges:
The row edges of the fabric should not show frying or snagging.
such defects come from the imperfectly sharpened knife.
Un-scorched,unfused edges:

The build up heat in the knife blade comes from the friction of
the blade passing through the fabric. This in extreme cases laid
to scorching of the fabric, and more frequently to the fusing of
the raw edges of thermo-plastic fiber fabrics, such as those
containing polyamide or polyester solution to this are a well
sharpened blade, a blade with air coolant/lubricant, slowing down
the speed of the blade and reducing the height of the lay.

METHODS OF CUTTING
In the majority of cutting rooms today, the cutting process
makes use of hand shears, a mechanized knife blade in one of
the several possible types, or a die press which stamps out the
garment shape. Some of the methods currently in use are
described bellow:
Hand shears:
Hand shears are normally used when cutting only single or
double plies. The lower blade of the shears passes under the
plies, and some distortion of the fabric might occur which can be
avoided with practice. Both left handed and right handed shears
are available for left or right handed people. The major
disadvantage of the method lies in the time it consumes and the
consequent high labor cost per garment, but it is appropriate for
measuring garments.
Straight knife:
A straight knife is used where the quantities for cutting do not
justify purchase of a computer-controlled cutter. The elements of
straight knife consist of a base plate, usually on rollers in case of
movement and an electric motor above it. A handle for the cutter
to direct the blade, and a sharpening device. The base plate on
its rollers slides under the glazed paper which is spread bellow
the bottom ply of fabric in a lay. Normally, available blade heights
vary from 10cm 33cm.normally available strokes vary from

2.5cm 4.5cm.the greater the blade movement the faster the

blade cuts the fabric and the more rapidly and easily the operator
can push the machine.
The straight knife is a common means of cutting lays in
conventional cuttings rooms because it is versatile, portable,
cheaper than a band knife, more accurate on curves than a
round knife and relatively reliable, easy to maintain. even if a
band knife is used for the main cutting operation, a straight knife
would be used to separate the lay into sections for easier
handling.
Round knife:
The elements of a round knife are base plate, above which is
mounted an electric motor, a handle for cutter to direct the
blade, and a circular blade rotating, so that the leading edge cuts
downwards into the fabric. blade diameter varies from 6cm
20cm.round knifes are not suitable for cutting curved lines in
high lays, because the blade does not strike all the plies
simultaneously at the same point as a vertical point
does.therefore,a round knife is used only for straight lines or
lower lays of relatively few plies.

BAND KNIFE:
a band knife comprises a series of three or more pulleys,
powered by an electric motor, with a continuously rotating steel
blade mounted on them. one edge of the blade is sharpened .the
band knife passes through a slot in the cutting table in a fixed
position and the section of the lay to be cut is moved past it.
Band knives are used when a higher standard of cutting accuracy
is required than can be obtained with a straight knife. Pieces to
be cut are first cut on a block, and then cut exactly on a band
knife.
Notches:

Many garments require that the notches be cut into the edges, to
enable alignment during sewing with other garment parts.
Specialized notching equipment provides greater accuracy
guidelines of the notches with the cut edge to give consistent
right angle to the edge.
Drills and thread makers:
Where reference marks are needed away from the edge of a
garment part, such as for the position of the pockets, darts and
similar features, a hole is often drilled through all the plies of
fabric in the lay. the drill mounting includes a motor, a base plate
with hole to allow the drill to pass through, and a spirit level to
ensure that the base is horizontal and hence the drill vertical. on
many fabrics, the drill is used cold and the hole remains visible
until the sewing operator comes to use it. On looser wave fabrics,
where the holes may close up, a hot drill is used which will
slightly scorch or fuse the edges of the hole. a hypodermic drill
may be used which leaves a small deposited of paint on each ply
of fabric. if it is important that no marks remains on the fabric, a
long thread may be passed through the lay which is then cut with
scissors between each ply, leaving a few centimeters visible on
each garment panel. All drill holes must eventually be concealed
by the construction of the garment.
SORTING
In this department, bundles are checked for cutting faults, measurement
faults and fabric faults. Re-cutting is done in this department itself
whenever faults are located. Here 100% checking of all pieces for the
fabric faults is done.
Labeling is done thereafter. In every bundle the top, center and
bottom pieces are being checked for their measurements by keeping the
patterns on it. Any increase or decrease in the measurements is being
noted in the Cut Component Quality Checking Report.

This department maintains a Batch Book. This is an inter Department

Delivery Note. This contains details regarding which PO is being fed in
which Batch. This book gives details regarding the following: Batch Name
P.O. No.
Style No.
Color
Size/Quantity
Cut No.
This note must be submitted in order to acquire trims from the stores.
Also, a Cutting Loading Book is maintained where a record of no. of
pieces and no. of bundles labeled are kept. It contains details regarding:
Cut No.
Size
Serial Nos
No of Pieces
Cumulative Pieces
This department also maintains a component quality checking report: In this department every piece is being checked for defects such as
knitting defects, washing defects etc. If more than 5% defects are
observed, re-cutting is done within the department. And the same is
been informed to the cutting department.
Sampling department provides a specification sheet called as Hard
Pattern Checking Report. It contains measurements and tolerance level
for every measurement. This is used to cross check the paper pattern
they received from the sampling department.
This department also keeps a record for number of pieces received,
on date loaded into batches, and the total loaded quantity cumulative for
the week. These bundled parts are delivered into the batches according
to the Cut Numbers.

This dept receives a copy of the style analysis report and a copy of the
PO sheets from the merchandisers.
Once the design has been selected it is essential to decide the starting
point for the embroidery. A decision must be taken on the most suitable
starting point so that there are minimum numbers of jumps in the
embroidery.
This starting point is known as the zero point and has to be specified in
the m/c.
Every m/c has 20 embroidery heads.
The dept has its own in house punching also; software used for this
purpose is WILCOM.
OBJECTIVES
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.

Designs received from merchants

Scan and punch the designs
Strike off of design
Samples to be done against orders
Conduct pilot run of the style
After approval start bulk
Trimming and checking is done to maintain quality

8. Packing of material and delivery

9. Style reconciliation.

PROCESS FLOW
Approval of sample

Approved
if it is not approved re submit

Production sample

Cut pieces arrive in bundle forms

Fusing materials is placed

Pieces attached on frames with fusing

Needle mark is done

Embroidery

Quality checking

Bundling

Dispatch
Production is calculated by the number of stitches/hr.
An average of 18,000 stitches per hour production takes place in one
m/c.
The maximum production may go up to 23,000 to 24,000 stitches per hr
per m/c.

VARIOUS KINDS OF STITCHES BEING PRODUCED

SATIN
TATAMI
PROGRAM SPLIT STITCH
ZIGZAG
E STITCH
RUNNING STITCH
TRIPLE RUN
MOTIF RUN

Speed of embroidery machines is about 10spm (stitches per minute)

to 1300spm, moreover 9 colors can be used at a time
DIFFERENT FRAMES USED FOR THIS PURPOSE

RING FRAME
18 INCHES FRAME
24 INCHES FRAME
ALTERNATE FRAMES

The

objective of sewing are the construction of seams, which

combine the required standards of appearance and performance
with an appropriate level of economy in production.
Assuming that the fabric is
Sewable and suitable for garments, the achievements, at an
economical level of the various requirements of appearance and
performance of sewn seams, both initially and during use, is the
result of the selection of 5 factors during manufacturing.
The seam type
The stitch type
The sewing machine feeding mechanism which moves the fabric,
the needle and enables a succession of stitches to be formed.
The needle which inserts the thread into the fabric.
The thread which inserts the thread into the fabric.
The thread which forms the stitch which either holds the fabric
together neatens it or decorates it.

These factors are closely interrelated to each other and will be

discussed, with a view to understand the sewing process in detail.
A stitch which is elementary basis of sewing can be formed without
fabric, within fabric or through or on fabric. For the purpose of
standardization of stitches and seam formations, the US government
developed a guide that defines stitch and seam in correct use. This guide
is known as UNITED STATES FEDERAL STITCHES AND SEAMS
SPECIFICATIONS [federal Standard751A].federal standard 751A makes
the following distinction by defining these terms.
A stitch is one unit of conformation of thread resulting from
repeatedly passing a strand or strands and /or loop or loops of
thread into or through a material at uniformly spaced intervals to
form a series of stitches.
A seam is a joint consisting of a sequence of stitches uniting two or
more pieces of material and is used for assembling parts in the
production of sewn items.
A stitching consists of a sequence of stitches for finishing an edge
or for ornamental purpose or both in preparing parts for
assembling.
The bound seam (BS) class requires a separate piece of fabric that
encompasses the edge of one or more pieces of garment. These
seams are used to finish plain necklines, edged of short sleeves on
some styles of T-shirts, and so on. Bound seam may be sewn with a
lock stitch, chain stitch, or cover stitch. They would never be sewn
with an edge stitch as the knife would cut off the binding. some
examples are shown bellow:

The flat seam (FS) class is the smallest class with only six different types.
The formation of this seam occurs with putting together of two pieces of
fabric, but not overlapping them. the stitches extend across the seam,
holding both pieces together and covering the seam on one or both sides.

Flat seams are constructed to remain flat through care and wear. They
are commonly used for seams of sweatshirts, lingerie, and long
underwear.
Stitching Classes: the stitching classes are ornamental stitching (OS) and
edge finishing (EF).the finishing of either of these classes is performed on
a single piece of fabric. The fabric may be folded in a variety of ways so
that the stitching may be through more than one thickness, but it
remains a single piece of fabric. Edge finishing stitch encompasses the
cut edges or provides a finish for a single ply of fabric with a folded edge
configuration. Stitches from any of the classes may be used depending
on the types of fold and placement of stitching. Ornamental stitching may
be used on a single ply for decorative purposes. It can be done anywhere
on the garment except the edge. the decorative stitching may be used on
jeans, pockets embroidered logos and pin tucks.
FLOW CHART OF SEWING DEPARTMENT
Bundles Issued

Construction of garment

Inline inspection 1 Alteration

If Pass Sent to respective operator

Sent to next stage of construction

Inline inspection 2

Same process of checking is carried out

Sent to next stage of construction

Same process of checking is carried out

End line inspection Alteration

If Pass
Sent to respective operator

Sent to Finishing Altered

MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS
SIRUBA
CYLINDER BED MULTI NEEDLE DOUBLE CHAIN STITCH M/CS
Front to back looper operation
Front to back thread trimming knives
Stitch length adjustment on the m/c bed
Auto lubrication with pump and oil filter
INTERLOCK M/CS
Flat bed cover stitch
High speed flat bed cover stitch interlock m/cs
High speed 6000 rpm
Excellent automatic lubricating and filtering system
Easy external push button selector for stitch length.
Thread and needle cooling systemusing silicon oils to cool down
General plain sewing / bottom hemming, tape binding, seams covering,
elastic inserting, elastic or lace attaching
Two needle chain stitch m/c, four needle chain stitch m/c
JUKI

1 needle , lockstitch, portable sewing m/c with automatic thread trimmer

for tailoring quilting, dress making and many other applications
sewing speed 1,500 rpm.
Needle HA x 1 (130/705 h)#7-#8(HL x 5#9-#16)
Stitch length max 6mm
Pressure foot lift by lever, max 7 mm; by knee lifter, max 12 mm

VARIOUS RECORDS MAINTAINED

LOADING REPORT
CUTTING LOADING REPORT
CHECKING REPORT
USED/BROKEN NEEDLE REPORT

LOADING REPORT
This report is made by the feeding helper giving daily record of how
much was loaded with cut no. It also mentions the pc.no and gives
cumulative value of total input.

Shahi Export House has an in-house washing department that is

common for both woven & knitted garments. Once the agreements come
from the production department they are either segregated according to
job orders or clubbed together according to the instructions given to
them by the production dept.
HISTORY OF LAUNDRY
Laundry was probably first done by immersing cloth in streams and
letting the stream carry away the materials causing stains and smells. In
many Third-World countries and rural regions, laundry may still be done
this way. Agitation helps remove the dirt, so the laundry is often rubbed,
twisted, or slapped against flat rocks.
Various chemicals may be used increase the solvent power of water, such
as the compounds in soaproot or yucca-root used by Native American
tribes. Soap, a compound of lye, from wood-ash, and fat, is an ancient and
very common laundry aid. However, modern washing machines typically use
powdered or liquid detergent in place of soap.
When there were no streams to use for laundry, laundry was done in
water-tight vats or vessels. Sometimes large metal cauldrons were filled
with fresh water and heated over a fire; boiling water was even more
effective than cold in removing dirt. The washboard, a corrugated slab of a

hard material such as metal, replaced rocks as a surface for loosening

soil.
Once clean, the clothes were wrung out -- twisted to remove most of the
water. Then they were hung up on poles or clotheslines to dry, or
sometimes just spread out on clean grass.
The Industrial Revolution completely transformed laundry technology.
First came the mangle, in the 18th century -- two long rollers in a frame
and a crank to revolve them. A laundry-worker took sopping wet clothing
and cranked it through the mangle, compressing the cloth and expelling
the excess water. The mangle was much quicker than hand twisting.
In the early 20th century inventors further mechanized the laundry
process with various washing machines. Typically, these machines used an
electrically-powered agitator to replace tedious hand rubbing against a
washboard. The earliest machines were simply a tub on legs, with a
hand-operated mangle on top. Later the mangle too was electrically
powered, then replaced by a perforated double tub, which spun out the
excess water in a spin cycle.
Laundry drying was also mechanized, with dryers. Dryers were also
spinning perforated tubs, but they blew heated air rather than water.

PROCESS FLOW

The garments are received from the production department.

The garments are received from the production department as a
bulk and not in bundles.
The washing department is centralized for all units of Shahi in
Bangalore.

 In case of knitted garments not much shade variation is observed

neither heavy washes are required.
Knit usually need light washes.

WET PROCESS
Dyeing
Washing
DYEING: 1. Reactive type
2. Pigment type.
WASHING: 1.Normal wash/ Water wash/ Dip& dry
2. Softner wash
3. Desize wash
4. Enzyme wash
5. Stone enzyme wash
6. Rubber ball wash
7. Denim wash
8. Bleach wash
9. Tinting/ T-Staining
10. Acid wash
DRY PROCESS:
Grinding
Ripping/Blow out
Sand blasting

Crinkling
Tagging
Whickering
PP spray

MAIN FUNCTIONS

Raw material inspection

Spreading and cutting quality inspection
Inspection for matching the parts of garments
After wash inspection
Inline inspection
End line inspection of sewing department
Inspection for button fixing
Inspection for printing
Pre-final inspection of the whole garment before packing
Final Inspection

FABRIC INSPECTION
INSPECTION METHOD
100 % fabric inspection is done at the vendors place.
After receiving the fabric in stores 20% of the fabric is checked for
defects.
For knitted fabrics, 4-point system is used.
DEFECTS MARKED

Needle Marks
Design Fault
Oil stains
Needle Line
Dye patches
Undyed Yarn
Slit Line
Knitting Contamination
Yarn Variation
Padding Line
Slubs

4-POINT SYSTEM
In this system, calculation of points per 100 square yards is done.
Maximum 40 points per square yard are acceptable. If it is more than
this, the fabric is rejected.
Dimension of defect
POINT ASSIGNED
Below 3
1
3-6
2
6-9
3
Above 9
4
SPREADING AND CUTTING QUALITY CHECKING
No. of tables for cut panel checking 2
Minimum No. of workers for checking 10
Length of the checking table
IN-LINE & END LINE INSPECTION
AQL 1.5 system is followed.

 Garment is passed through various kinds of in-line inspection while

contruction.
After construction, it is taken under end-line inspection.
After end-line checking, the garment is checked for button strength.
The records which are issued by QAD to batch supervisors are given
to quality checking workers.
Defect code, major or minor; corrective action taken, garment is
rejected or accepted, etc. are mentioned on the record.
Finally supervisor and quality controller sign it.
This report is sent back to QAD.
If there is any rejection, the batch offer slip is returned with fail
written over it.

PURPOSE OF THE DEPARTMENT

Lab is the department where we can test the
fabric,fiber,thread,trims for its property,quality and to find out whether
these properties will match the customer requirement.
FUNCTIONS OF THE DEPARTMENT
Testing the fabric for its count,construction,stength,weight.
Testing the fabric for its colourfastness to
washing,perspiration,crocking.
Testing the fabric for its pilling property,heat sensitivity ect
Testing the buttons for its pulling sterngth
Testing the carton box and knitted material for its bursting strength
Testing all these above properties and to send it to external lab for the
buyers requirement
TESTS

Testing the thread count using pick glass or beasley balance

Testing bursting strength of a fabric using tearing strength tester
Testing the tensile strength of a fabric using tensile strength tester
Testing thr fabric for its tendency to pilling using pilling tester.
Using the twist tester finding the amount of twist.
Testing the fabric for its colourfastness to washing by Launder-ometer
Testing the fabric for its colour fastness to perspiration by perspiration
tester
Testing the fabric for its colourfastness to crocking by crock-o-meter
Testing the fabric for its Dimensional stability to washing.

LAB INSTRUMENTS
GSM CUTTER

Sample Cutter for GSM

To determine accurately the GSM (Grams per square meter) of any type
of fabrics.
Ergonomic latest design with modern aesthetics.
Finest grade of aluminum used in the main body for lightweight,
robustness & resilience.
Smooth precision engineered components for excellent performance.
Stainless steel blade holders for lifelong excellent operations.
Complete with all accessories along with four special rubberized foam
cutting pad for smooth cutting & long life of the blades & two sets of
cutting blades.
Supplied with calibration & inspection certificates.
Weight: 1.7 Kgs. (3.74 lbs)
Dimension:

OPERATION PROCEDURE FOR GSM CUTTER

1. place the fabric flat on the GSM pad.
2.on the fabric place the GSM cutter.
3. press the handle & rotate it towards right side. unit the fabric cuts.
4.take out the cut fabric & weigh it on the balance

TWIST TESTER
digiTWIST NxTM
Used to determine the twist per inch/cm.
Specially designed for single yarn, double yarn & open-end yarns.
Smooth precision-engineered mechanism.
1 & 50gms weight supplied to give proper tension during testing.
Digital control panel with LCD display.
Complete with all accessories
Supplied with calibration & inspection certificates.
Weight main unit: 14 Kg (30.8 lbs)
Dimension:

OPERATION PROCEDURE FOR TWIST TESTER

1.cut the sewing thread to 20cm length.
2.fix one end to the right side knob.

3.fix the other end to the left side knob at a distance of 1 inch.
4.rotate the handle until the thread is untwisted completely.
5.number of turns will be noted by the counter.

TENSILE STRENGTH TESTER

digiSTRENGTH I(For Fabrics)

To determine tensile strength of fabrics.
Maximum capacity 250Kg with 100gms accuracy, works on CRE
principle.
Digital control panel.
Maximum jaw separation 450mm & minimum jaw separation 25mm.
One inch & four inch jaws supplied to conduct grab test & seam slippage
respectively.
Complete with all accessories-templates, 6 mm gauge etc.
Supplied with inspection & calibration certificates.
Weight: 189 Kgs. (416 lbs)
Dimension:

Related Standards:
ASTM-D 5035, ASTM-D 1578, ASTM D-5034, ASTM D-434, BSEN 10023, BS-1610, DIN

OPERATION PROCEDURE FOR TENSILE STRENGTH TESTER

1.cut the fabric in the size of 15 x 10cm along wrap & weft direction.
2.fix the fabric inbetween the jaws.
3.distance between the jaws should be 3 inch.
4.then press the green button to start the machine.
5.once the fabric gets tear, press the red button to stop the machine.
6.digital indicator will show the reading.
7.to know the accurate quality of the fabric 3 trails are taken along wrap
& weft direction.

BUTTON PULL TESTER

Button Snap Pull Tester (Paramount as per H & M.)

Used to determine the pulling strength of any type of button & snaps
used in garments
Latest model with modern aesthetics.
With maximum capacity 30Kgf & Least Count 250Gms.
Four different types of jaws supplied to grip different type of buttons &
snaps.
Pull & Push type dial gives maximum accuracy.
Protective goggle is provided for safety.
Supplied with all accessories along with 15lbs calibration weight to
calibrate the instrument.
Supplied with inspection & calibration certificates.
Weight: 25 Kg. (55 lbs)
Dimension:

OPERATION PROCEDURE FOR BUTTON PULL TESTER

1.place the button in button holder & fix it, other end of button is hold by
pull.

2.pull the button in the holder by moving the pully upwards.

3.by pulling the pully upward hold it for 10sec.,to see whether the button
withstands that pressure.
4.pull the pully unit ,the button comes out of the fabric.
5.note down the final reading.
BURSTING STRENGTH TESTER
digiBURST I NX
To determine bursting strength of knitted fabrics.
Latest design with digital control panel.
Maximum capacity 35 kgs.
Glycerin used as test fluid.
Smooth precision engineered components for excellent performance.
Complete with all accessories including calibrated aluminum foil for
calibration.
Supplied with inspection & calibration certificates.
Weight: 85kgs (187 lbs)
Dimension:

OPERATION PROCEDURE FOR BURSTING STRENGTH TESTER

1.place the fabric on the centre of diaphragm.
2.move the handle down, so that fabric is fixed tightly between base &
the handle.
3.press & hold the yellow button until the fabric tears.
4.dial will show the bursting strength of the fabric.

PERSPIRATION TESTER
Perspiration Tester I(ISO)
To determine colorfastness to perspiration.
Ergonomic latest design with modern aesthetics.
Smooth precision engineered components for excellent performance.
Supplied with 5Kg dead weights as per ISO standards .
Complete with all accessories acrylic palates, adjacent fabrics etc.
Supplied with calibration & inspection certificates.
Weight: 8.3 Kg. (18.25 lbs)
Dimension:

OPERATION PROCEDURE FOR PERSPIRATION TESTER

1.cut the fabric into 6 x 6cm.
2.stitch multi fibre to the cut fabric.
3.dip the fabric into prepared chemical solution.
4.after 30min remove the fabric from the solution.
5.place the fabric between acrylic plates.
6.place the plates between the jaws & tighten the jaws by opening the
5kg load.
7.place the jaws into the perspirometer & set the temperature to 37
2.
8.pull the red button down to start the apparatus.
9.after 6 hours remove the fabric from the apparatus.
PILLING TESTER
digiPILL TM
To access resistance to pilling of any type of fabrics as per ICI pilling.
Digital control panel with latest aesthetics.
3mm cork lining inside the boxes for proper pilling action.
Complete with all accessories-pilling tube, template etc.
Supplied with inspection & calibration certificates.
Weight: 35kgs (77 lbs)
Dimension:

OPERATION PROCEDURE FOR PILLING TESTER

1.cut the fabric to standard size of 25cm x 25cm.
2.stich the sample along the mark done on the fabric.
3.fix the sample to ribber tube using gum tape.
4.place the rubber tubes into the tester box.
5.set 18000 rotation & press red button to start the tester.
6.remove the tubes after completion of 18000 rotation.
TEARING STRENGTH TESTER

tearTESTER I TM
To determine tearing strength of knitted and woven fabrics.
Capacity up to 6.400Kgs.
With adjustable cutting knife.
Having three variable capacity 1.600kg, 3.200kg & 6.400kg for different
type of fabrics.
Latest design with modern sophisticated look.
Complete with accessories including three calibration weights.
Supplied with inspection & calibration certificates.
Weight: 28 kgs (61.6 lbs)
Dimension:

PROCEDURE FOR TEARING STRENGTH TESTER

1.cut the fabric as per the template size along wrap & left direction.
2.bring the pendulum to vertical direction.
3.fix the cut fabric into jaws.
4.cut the fixed fabric by 20mm using the knife attached to the tester.
5.release the handle , so that pendulum moves back, results in fabric

tear.
6.dial will show the reading which is the tearing strength of the fabric.
7.to know the accurate quality of the fabric 3 trails are taken along wrap
& left direction.
CROCK-O- METER
OPERATION PROCEDURE FOR CROCK-O-METER
1.place the fabric horizontally on the platform & fix it by holder.
2.fix the AATCC standard fabric to the knob.
3.place the knob on the fabric placed horizontally below & move the
handle to fro for 10 cycles.
4.wet the AATCC standard fabric in distill water for 65% pick.
5.place the knob on the fabric placed horizontally below & move the
handle to the fro for 10 cycles.
6.to know the quality of the fabric take 3 trails in dry & wet standard
fabric

LAUNDROMETER

digiWASH I NxTM(ISO)
Latest model to check colourfastness to washing & dry cleaning.
Latest Ergonomic design with customer friendly control panel.
Temperature can be raised up to 98 C with digital Temperature
controller.
Inching facility for loading and unloading the beakers.
Digital Timer with automatic shut down & audible warning.
Eight 550 ml Beakers & 40 rpm of the rotating drum strictly meet the
International standards.
Supplied with complete accessories including standard detergent and
adjacent fabrics
Supplied with calibration & inspection certificates.
Weight: 81kgs (178 lbs)
Dimension:
Related Standards

OPERATION PROCEDURE
1.cut the fabric in the size of 5 x 10cm.
2.stitch multifibre to the cut fabric.
3.heat the water in the loundr0meter upto 40.
4.to the beaker add 200ml of 0.37% diluted AATCC standard reference

detergent.
5.add fabric with multi fiber ,10steel balls & solution into the beaker &
close the lid.
6.insert the beaker into the stand of laundrometer & close the lid.
7.set the time to 45min & maintain the temperature in the beaker.
8.after 45min ,stop the machine & remove the sample & dry.

WASHING MACHINE

OPERATION PROCEDURE
1.place all garments in the basket for washing.
2.close the door & press till you hear a clicksound.
3.set the machine to required temperature.
4.set the machine to D E cycle & press the white button & start the
machine.

5.stop the machine after 25min.

6.after clicksound comes from the machine open the door,remove the
garments & put into dryer for drying.

YARN APPEARANCE BOARD

Yarn Evenness Tester
To access the yarn irregularities (like thick place, thin place, slubs etc.)
Two different types of boards supplied for winding the yarn.
Specially designed Separate unit for holding yarn bobbin.
Yarn wrapped on the board can be 20,22,26,32,38 & 48 ends per inch.
Six traverse speed options for fine to coarser count of yarn.
Supplied with all accessories.
Supplied with calibration & inspection certificates.
Weight main unit: 21 Kg (46.2 lbs)
Dimension:

OPERATION PROCEDURE FOR YARN APPEARANCE BOARD

1.fix the board to the machine.
2.sewing thread is passed through tension device & knotted to left side of

the board.
3.handle is rotated in clockwise direction until appearance board is
completely wound with the thread.
4.board is removed from the machine & compared with the standard
board.

BEARLY BALANCE TO FINDOUT YARN COUNT / THREAD COUNT.

countTESTER (ECO Model)

To determine fineness of any type of yarns directly in indirect system.
Most economical & user-friendly instrument for count determination.
Smooth, precision-engineered components for exceptional performance.
Cotton, Half Cotton, Worsted, Metric, Linen count can be directly
calculated on this equipment.
Black acrylic template is supplied to prepare accurate length of sample.
Complete with all accessories.
Supplied with calibration & inspection certificates.
Weight: 6.1Kgs (13.42lbs)
Dimension:

OPERATION PROCEDURE FOR BEARLY BALANCE

1.remove the threads from the fabric.
2.cut the threads to the size of template.
3.place threads in the balance until the ends get balanced.
4.take out the balanced threads & count.
5.check the count in both wrap & left direction.

WRAP REEL
digiWrap 5TM
Used to make lea of yarn.
Digital control panel with resettable revolution counter.
Supplied with a wheels-1mtr or 1.5yds perimeter.
Bobbin holding stand can accommodate bobbins dia up to 100mm.
Five leas can be made together.
Complete with all accessories.
Supplied with inspection & calibration certificates.
Weight main unit: 38Kg (88.7 lbs)
Dimension :

OPERATION PROCEDURE FOR WRAP REEL

1.sewing thread is placed on the thread holder.

2.then thread is pressed,through the tension device & knotted on the
winder.
3.handle is rotated in clockwise direction until the thread is completely
wound.
4.number of turns will give the meters of sewing threads.

This is the final stage of garment manufacturing. It makes the garment

ready, presentable with the final touch given. Finishing is of immense
importance in garments.
The garments are transported to the finishing department from the
washing department. If the fabrics have been pre-washed before the
cutting stage itself, then the garments are sent directly from the
production department to the finishing department.
FINISHING PROCESS FLOW
Inside Check (Trimming)

Thread sucking/ Dusting

Ironing (Measurement
adjustments)
Final Checking

Measurement Checking

Folding

Presentation Check

Tagging

Packaging

Packing

After receiving the garments from sewing department, it goes under

following process at finishing: The garments are checked inside
out any extra-uncut thread. Trimming is
Dispatch
done.
Thread sucking machines are used to remove unwanted threads from the
garment.
Garments made of stretchable fabric like fleece are liable to get spoiled in
this machine. So, duster of bob tape is wrapped around a cardboard is
used to dust these garments. All unwanted matter is suck in this duster
and the garments come out clean.
Garments are adjusted for measurements on the steam iron.
Once garments are ironed, they are sent for pre-final checking, here
complete checking is done.
For small stains, spraying gun filled with white petrol is used. A
toothbrush and water is also used to clean the stain.
After checking, garments are marked with white pencil inside the main
label. If the stain persists, it is marked with red arrow and is then sent to
spot washing.
In spot wash, here a spraying gun cleans garment with scrubber.
Different chemicals are used in the spray gun according to the stain to be
removed.
A marking is done if the label is missing. Thread is tied at the corner and
is sent back to the production for alteration.
If the garments are having serious problems like shade variation, it is
marked and kept inside. Seniors are informed for its further
investigation.
Garments are passed for folding after the respective QC puts their
sticker.
Garments are folded as per the folding instructions given by the buyer.
Tagging is done on buyers choice. After putting all the accessories, if
required packed in a small packet. Tagging is done along with the price
tag and the wash care label.
After tagging, garment is ready for packing. Keeping in mind according to
buyers requirement, garments are packed either individually or in size
ratio.

After packing individual garment, they are packed in a poly-bag in size

ratio.
All poly-bags have a statutory warning printed on it. For e.g. - Keep it
away from children. Bag contains recycled post consumer plastic.
After this garments are kept temporarily in cartons, and then are packed
in specific cartons as per specifications.
A final packing list is prepared. And it is stored in the warehouse for final
inspection by buyer and then is dispatched.

Retailing deals with the Indian Market,which supplies the product to the
different buyers like Life style,Allan sollen,Max Dubai,Black Berry,people
for Peter England.
Retailing is a separate department from entire Shahi,which have got its
own merchandising team,planning, patterning,fabric ang logistic team
Designers creates their own design ,or brows according to
buyers requirement with all the details and if buyer gives a theme,they
will work with concept,design,naming,moodboard,deciding the
colours,silhoutes,fabric selection and finally selection of trims and
accessories.
Merchandising team starts their work from sourcing the
fabric,trim and working with the sampling till the shipment of order.
Pattern masters prepare the blocks for particular design
and develop it to different sizes.
PPC/Production team plans out the style in batches with
concidering the shipment dates and follow up the production.
QA will review the sample and procede for the further
production.
Logistic department deals with all the import and exporting matters.
Hence retailing have got a wast opportunity in todays
competitive world.
DESIGN LAB WORKS OUT WITH,
TECHNICAL DRAWINGS AND RENDERINGS
Render technical drawings with all dimensions and written instructions
needed to produce prototype. High quality renderings and fashion
illustrations suitable for scanning or faxing.
Conceptboards / Presentation Boards

Targeted seasonal concept-boards developed specifically for client.

Representation of global inspiration thru aesthetic references and
emotional signifiers found in the worlds of fashion, home, sports and
automotive industries.

PRODUCT ART DIRECTION

Provide photographic and illustration service for catalogue. Conceptualize
and art direct product-driven catalogue and marketing media.
PRODUCT LAUNCH CONSULTATION
Develop and execute strategy for startup or accessory brand expansion
including consumer profile, pricepoint targets, product assortment and
launch strategy.
BRAND ANALYSIS
In-depth research of client's brand perspective and evaluation of product
line. Submit report on findings, highlighting existing brand strengths and
opportunities.
TREND RESEARCH AND FASHION REPORTING
Shop Europe or specified US cities for key retail trends. Submit report,
compile media presentation or personally present trends along with
photographs.
FASHION COPYWRITING
Create copy for press release, catalogue, marketing, newsletters and
product collateral. Develop product names, descriptions, technical
terminology and brand language.
RETAIL STORE PLANNING
Develop thematic concepts for fashion retailers. Design and execute floor
plan, fixtures, lighting, and display systems for optimum presentation.

CONCLUSION
The apparel industry is a highly comptative global business .To
be successful,manufactures and retailers must serve their consumer
markets.Manufacturers must produce apparel that meets
performance,quality and value expectations of retailers and
consumers.Manufacturers produce goods with appropriate intrinsic
quality to be merchandised and marketed with desirable extrensic
appear.The centality of the apparel manufacturing function of the apparel
industry markets apparel production a key factor in the successful
merchandising and marketing of the apparel products.
Inorder to stay in business,each firm must grow and make
a profit.Apparel firms grow throgh the internal growth,vertical and
horizontal integration,and conglomerate mergers.Manufacturers and
retailers have become partners in QR,competetors in manufacturing and
retailing,suppliers and users in the trade matrix.Apparel firms operate in
a traditional market.That involves in traditional trade regulation and
image problems related to sweatshops. Excess of import over exports
have created a trade deficit in apparel.
Executive leadership and six areas of specialisation are
required in order to operate an apparel
firm:marketing,merchandising,production,operation,finance and quick
response.These functions must be performed,regardless of size of the
firm or product line,inorder to carry out the manufacturing process and
meet the needs of the target market.Cooperation among these functional
areas of specialisation is the keys to success for an apparel
manufacturing firm.