Constituent , Formation and growth of cotton plant

Cotton fibers grow in two distinct stages:

First stage: the length of the fiber increases and form the primary
wall that embrace components of the cell.
The second stage: where the secondary wall is formed by
cellulose precipitation in successive layers on the inner surface of
the primary wall.
1)
Longitudinal section of cotton staple:
Cotton fibers is divided by length to three regions :
The base region roots: consists of 3 parts: foot, shank
and elbow
The body: where most fibers of 75 95 % of total
length. It is characterized with regular diameter. The
lumen is existed but narrow according to growth
average.
The tip: It is peripheral part of the fiber ranges from 5
25 % of the total length. The fiber is linear and with no
lumen. It is ended with cylindrical peripheral.
Cross section of cotton staple : consists of many distinct layers:
the primary wall surrounded with Cuticle, then the secondary wall,
then the lumen that contains residual protoplasm of the cell.
1. the primary wall and Cuticle are both the single film
surrounding the cotton fiber during its longitudinal
growth: A) Cuticle is delicate covering less than
25,% micron in thickness. chemically, Cuticle
consists of a mixture of fats , wax, a lot of pectin
materials and some mineral salts. B) primary wall is
the covering the determines plant cells, able to
increase in length and width, that characterized it
from the secondary wall, thickness of the primary
wall is less than 25,% micron .
2. Secondary wall : winding layer, middle layer, and
inner layer.
3. Lumen.
4. Convolutions: this shape characterizing the cotton
fibers has a good effect on cotton fitness for

spinning and on mechanical properties of staple

such as elongation and durability.
2) Natural and mechanical properties of the cotton plant
* Absorbing moisture : it absorbs sweat and therefore used in the
manufacture of underwear, lingerie and light summer clothing.
* Exposure to light : increased exposure to light weakens the
tenacity , damages fabrics and affects the color of cloth, making it
dull and fading.
* Tenacity : cotton tenacity increases by wetting.
* Elongation and resilience : cotton, is one of the best cellulose
fibers but generally of less resilience.
*Luster: generally, cotton has less gloss compared to other fibers.
* Temperature : cotton bears temperature rise but resulting in
shrinkage and less tenacity.
* Care: easy care, difficult to become dirty, but shrinks by laundry.
* Acids and alkalis : Focused acids tear fibers. long boiling alkali
weakens fibers.
* Bacteria: cotton is subjected to mold if stored without complete
drying.
* Shrinkage: due to higher elongation, it shrinks during textile
stages when subjected to tension.
* Oxidizing agents : cotton endures oxidizing agents but using too
much oxidizing decompose cotton.
* Torsion : cotton has torsion which distinguishes it from other
fibers, making the outer surface notched.
3Cotton types : There are four types of cotton
1) cotton of American high areas
2) Egyptian cotton

3) Cotton C Islands
4) Asian cotton
Types of Egyptian cotton :
1) the average long
2) long
3) excellent long
4)
Egyptian cotton Grade:
1. Extra
2. Very good
3. Good
4. Fully good fair
5. Good fair
6. Fully fair
7. Fair
5Plant diseases of cotton : the most harmful pests are:
insect beetle of bolls
cotton worms
terbees insect
plant louse
Using liquid insecticides to combat these pests, as well as
microbial agents.
6Technological progress :
Due to the development of industry and technical techniques,
synthetic fibers are to compete with cotton textiles, so the chemists
developed several ways to improve the quality of cotton textiles,
resulted in chemical treatments to the production of cotton fabrics
with special features such as:
cease resistance, fire resistant, water proof, more powerful,
more brightness.
Industrialists can blend cotton fibers with wool and flax fibers to
produce specific tissues of:

excellent cotton tissues, roughed cotton tissues, Tweed

fabrics, apparel fabrics , silky cotton and cotton threads for
carpets, and many other types of textiles.
Organic cotton :
grown and grow without the use of any chemicals, so-called green
or clean cotton production, but it means less harvest and higher
prices
* Currently, genetic engineering makes it possible to introduce
some genes anti- pests in cotton such as BT gene, which produces
a poisonous substance that kills insects feeding on plants (bolls
worm)
* Currently. also genetic engineering makes it possible to produce
cotton carries genes insusceptible to insecticides , not affecting the
cotton plant.
* currently genetic engineering is used to produce colored cotton
naturally, a natural yellow color for the production of the army khaki
cloth and blue color for the production of jeans clothing, that save
the dyeing costs.

Application of Nano Technology :

It based on forming the matter through atomic molecule interaction
in specific ratios measured with nano meter, to create fine
electronic appliances of super qualities.
This technology has amazing properties without change in the
texture or the form of fabrics, such as improving the quality and
strength of woolen and cotton fabrics, production of anticombustion fabrics , also produces cotton fabrics resist stains and
fatty deposits.
Producing jeans pantaloons soft to touch, resistant to fats ,dirt, and
body smell, by adding carbon in specific ratios.
Producing fabrics self clean from dirt and fungi .self protection
against ultraviolet.
Cotton cultivation :
climatic environment has an effect on cultivating cotton, it
has been found that the area of Beni Suef helps to improve
the properties of cotton regarding seed oil content and

protein , the study also found an effect of the temperature

increase on the chemical properties of cotton fiber Bactine.
A study has been carried out to examine the impact of
spraying Citric acid to increase the number of bolls of Giza
57fadi cotton, revealing its positive influence of the early
harvest and on the properties of the fiber in terms of
strength.
Another study is to examine the impact of treatment by the
acetic acid, on the cotton plant at the beginning stage of
burst bolls, that increases the number of flowers and bolls
and weight of seeds , and produces early harvest.
Bleaching cotton :
enzymes have been used in the bleaching process, such as
cellulose enzyme and Bactine Glucose that are more
effective with less costs.
using some active components such as sodium peroxide, in
the bleaching staple of Egyptian cotton, where it found that
the addition of some stimulants increased bleaching with out
effecting the tenacity and elongation of fabrics resulting in
minimizing costs, saving time and effort and energy.
Cotton properties:
As the yellowish percentage increased in cotton, the
neglected quantity increased, as well as the wanted
physical qualities.
There are new simple methods to predict quality of
produced threads by examining their cotton fibers.
Cleaning cotton :
using enzymes but they have an adverse environmental impact,
despite their effectiveness in minimizing the industrial cost used in
the purification of waste water of washing and cleaning cotton.
Genetically engineered cotton : by using genetic engineering, it is
possible to redistribute the molecular weight of cellulose affecting
the wanted physical qualities of cotton such as tenacity and length
of fibers.
Final processing of cotton (finishing) :
* There are two types of finishing dealing with anti-bad smells and
bacteria : one is a part of the process of forming fibers during

cultivation, the second is through techniques for the final finishing

of Cotton Textile.
* an Egyptian company has devised techniques giving cotton cloth
properties of fire resistant , abrasion resistant, as well as color
fastness .
* There are also techniques for processing cotton fabrics to have
standing solidity for cuffs and collars of shirts and others.
Dyeing cotton :
* treatment of cotton fabrics of 89 &83 Giza, with cellulose
enzyme, and stabilizer materials (ferrous sulphate or copper
sulphate) led to efficient absorption of natural dyeing and
consistency of dyeing.
Using Environment- friendly Natural dyeing stuff for dyeing cotton:
Henna gives cotton higher resistance to sunlight and high
shrinkage.
Curcuma with cellulose enzyme led to efficient absorption of
natural dyeing and consistency of dyeing .
Onion peel with ferrous sulphate increases the intensity of
dyeing and resistance to wash, light ,and sweat.
Orange husks with help of cationic agents.
Mercerizing
* Mercerizing leads to color depth and color fastness to acid sweat.
* Treatment with resin leads to color change and stains, decrease
in color fastness to light, and decrease in color depth.
* Treatment with both Mercerizing and resin lead to increase in
color fastness to washing and dry rubbing.
* Efficient absorption of cotton fibers to dyeing stuff increases after
Mercerizing.
* It is shown that Giza cotton 89 is the best in absorbing direct and
active dyes after Mercerizing.
Mixing cotton fibers :
There is a possibility for Mixing different kinds of cotton fibers to
have good weaving properties to overcome the problem of costs of
importing excellent types of cotton.

A mixture of Giza 86 Egypt, Tswiss, China, and DCH India in

different ratios, demonstrates that Giza 86 Egypt was the best for
its weaving qualities, appearance, color fastness in dyeing.
Another study, a mixture of different kinds of cotton (Giza 90, 83,
and 80), indicates that Giza 90 is the best for its strength , less
fibers , less neps, good weaving qualities , insect and disease
resistant .
7

Uses of Cotton
Cotton fiber products :
cotton fibers are used in all clothes from hats to
shoes for their strength and tenacity.
Consumer goods including : carpets, towels, covers
of books, cloth for car seats.
Scientists succeeded in producing Cotton products
resistant to all types of fire, shrinkage, crease, and
water proof finishes.
Cotton seed products :
oil is one of the most important products, which is the
basis of some other products, such as vegetable ghee ,
margarine, oil salad, and the remnants of purification
process used in the manufacture of soap and fodder for
animal feed containing protein.
The crust of cottonseed is used to feed cows, in chemicals
industry or soil cover, as well as making flour of high
protein for human beings.
Lint / Fine ravellings of cotton

* Cotton lint chemically treated, used as raw materials for

the production plastics, photographic films, paper and
envelopes , and for producing cotton explosives.
* also used in stuffing bed pillows and blankets as well as
absorbing cotton after sterilization.

Modern Finishes of cotton fibers :

In the military field :
for producing Soldiers clothes, parachute, tents, umbrellas, cotton
gunpowder, ropes, explosives, preventive masks.

In Medical field : for producing:

gauze , sterilized absorbing cotton, medical ligaments, medical
socks, surgical clothes, bedspread for special patients, dressings, ,
and medical masks.

In industrial field : for producing:

Belts, paper, diapers , plastic, fasteners , protective clothing,
ropes, gloves, hats, helmets, filters, book covers, preventive
masks, tires, hoses, flame for stoves and candles, leather,
cosmetics, soap, American cloth, Glycerol, photography film,
thermal insulation, cellophane, adhesive stuff, polish and paintings.

In the area of clothing :

underwear and lingerie , children's clothes, sports clothes,
swimming costume, uniform , shirts, socks, gloves, dresses,
threads, pantaloons , pajamas , Nightclothes , clothing
supplements such as shoes, bags , coats, and accessories

In household upholstery :

Industry of bedding, blankets, upholstery fabrics, curtains, and

towels, windows umbrellas, tray tables, napkins, handkerchiefs,
different upholstery fabrics, stuffing mattresses and pillows.

In various areas of nutrition :

cooking oils, vegetable ghee, hotdogs coverings and animal feed

SILK
9History of silk :
Silk discovered in 2700 B.C. in the garden of Chinese emperor,
,when his wife discovered white worms feed on berries leaves and
weaving bright Cocoons .She put them in hot water ,noted
interwoven and separable thread from Cocoon ,That was the
beginning of the discovery of silk.
10
Raw silk :
Strong thread which protects the Cocoon itself when turned into a
virgin, a liquid protein of complex structure, consisting of a large
number of amino acids.
11
The first States in silk industry are: China then India and then
Japan. USA comes first in silk productions
12
Components of silk :Silk is a fabric made from the fine threads
produced by silkworms and other larvae that spin cocoons.
* 70% - 80% fibroin.
* 19% - 28% Sericin.
* 5. - 1% fats
* 5. - 1% metallic materials
13
Sources of silk :
Cultivated silk : silkworm produces silk and luxurious silk,
which feeds on berries leaves.

 Wild silk : extracts from the silk worms, which feed on castor
leaves, it is difficult to bleach this silk because its natural
color is dark yellow, and less brightness than natural silk,
fabric , so it is used as stuffing in textiles, and often mixed
with other fibers.
14
Thrown Silk :
When the Mite, puncturing Cocoon, It cuts long silk thread to
several short threads, and this thrown silk thread is spinning to be
added to specific silk, woolen and cotton fabrics
15
Cocoon :
Cocoon is the raw material of silk, produced by silkworms , it is
strong thread which protects the Cocoon itself when turned into a
virgin from environmental changes.
Cocoon is a long untied thread of 5-6 layers.
It is important to know that silkworm, when extracting thread,
moves its head from the right to left and vice versa about 70 - 80
times per minute, to produce only 15 cm every minute.
16There are three strains of Cocoons:
single generation Cocoons, length of thread 800-1200
meters.
dual generation Cocoons, length of thread 600-800 meters.
multiple generation Cocoons, length of thread 400-600
meters.
But in hybrid, length of thread 1300-1400 meters.
And in Japanese hybrid, length of thread reached 1800
meters
17Cocoons natural features:
Color : Cocoons colors ranging from snow- white, blackish
White, creamy , reddish , Scarlet, pale yellow, dark yellow,
golden, to green.
Form : Cocoons form is oval of Chinese origin, peanut form
of Japanese origin.

 Size : Cocoons price, is evaluated by their size not weight.

Weight : Cocoon lose part of its weight(15%) through
evaporation, as well as the consumption of fat during the
evolution from a virgin to butterfly.
18Quality of Cocoons:
Good Cocoon is characterized with well-knit and complete form,
construction and size and large content of silk.
19Strangle Cocoon :
Is a drying process for Cocoon, by killing Virgin inside Cocoon, or it
will transform to butterfly piercing the cocoon, therefore can not be
untie .
The drying methods : 1- solar drying 2- vapor drying 3- hot air
drying.
20Storing Cocoons :
there many method for storing cocoons including:
To be attached to the ceiling in sacks, in airy room.
The relative humidity must be less than 70%.
To clean the storage using Formalin.
To be Flipping constantly, keeping it always dry.
It is possible to use Insecticide in a piece of cloth inside
storing sacks.
21Cooking Cocoons:
Cooking cocoons means getting rid of sericin to untie cocoons.
Methods of cooking cocoons: 1- open metal ware. 2- triple metal
ware. 3- push cooking. 4- vapor cooking.
Physical properties of silk:
Silk filament seems to be one thread, but in fact it consists of two
threads in direct physical contact with a layer of sericin giving silk
dry rough to the touch.
Here some Physical properties of silk
1. Microscope shape for silk thread : thick tread color is darker
than the fine thread color.

2. x-ray: the inner surface is bigger than the outer visible one,
so silk has great capacity to absorb water. X- ray indicates
that fibroin is crystalloid.
3. hygroscopic: silk absorption capacity is 30% of its weight if
placed in specific humid climate without seeming wet or dry.
Silk absorbs water greatly until reaching stage of wetting,
making it less strength of 20%, however, it restores its
strength again by drying, thus we must care of choosing
specific washing or untie water, for keeping its luster and
softness.
4. whiz: the sound that silk makes under rubbing or pressure.
This quality can be achieved by treating silk with lightening
acetate acid and to be dried without washing. Whiz is
considered as high quality of silk.
5. weighting: there are 3 universal commercial standards for
silk weighting: 1)fine standard: where thread weight ranging
from 9-16 Denier. 2)medium standard: where thread weight
ranging from 17-30 Denier. 3)heavy standard: where thread
weight of more than 30 Denier.
6. length : length of silk thread in cocoons ranging from 800 to
1200 m. length of cocoons is different according to race.
7. luster: after removing gum, silk becomes soft with great
luster.
8. Color: color differs by the environment, so Chinese silk
takes golden white or golden yellow color. Decolor can be
achieved after the removal of glue material, thus silk color
will be creamy or white.
9. Tenacity: tenacity of silk decreases in wetting or by removing
sericin.
10.
Elongation: silk has great elongation capacity of 4 gm /
Denier generally, and of 20% elongation of the original height.
Increase of humidity increases weight , flexibility, however
decreases cutting resistance.
11.
Density: silk density is of 1,33 Pascal, silk fabrics
become more heavier by using mineral salts that give us
ability to handle silk easily in the different models .
12.
Effect of light: sensitivity of silk to light is weak and
loses 50% of its strength when it is exposed to ultraviolet
light, about 6 hours, thus, silk be prone to damage by
sunlight.
13.
effect of heat: Silk bears high temperatures, however,
the white color turns yellow if subjected to heating in an oven

of 110 degrees for a minute, and burns if subjected to

heating more than 170 degrees.
14- Effect of acids: Silk to be affected by focused acids.
15- Effect of alkalis: silk to be decomposed by treatment with hot
focused alkalis ,not lighter alkalis, but resulting in less luster.
Ammonia dissolves the sericin layer only, but it affects fibroin by
long boiling, also the nickel salts and copper with ammonia
dissolve silk.
16- cleanliness and wash ability: Natural silk is one of healthy
materials, whose surface is smooth, not attracting dirt.
17-Electrical properties: silk is a bad conductor of heat ,thus, could
be used to insulate electrical wires.
Damaging silk fabrics:
Silk is a protein fabric of 18 kinds of amino acids, Siloyama
mentioned that the existence of water decreases the polar amino
salts in the molecule structure on the polarizing silk region, causing
changes on non- polarizing region where molecule direction
decreases, cutting the molecule chains.
23- DIFFETNT USES OF NATURAL SILK
Clothes field :
silk garments are lighter than cotton garments, or artificial silk, and
others, silk garments are more glitter than others, can be ironed
out easily, and resist shrinkage.
Natural silk, used in the manufacture of clothing, underwear,
socks, napkins ,handkerchiefs, scarf ,laces, hats, shoes, covers,
curtains, embroidery and sewing thread.
Natural silk coated with gold is used for making sari in India.
Silk coated with gold is used to overcome the uneven silk
threads.
To be blended in transparent fabrics, and synthetic or other natural
fibers to add some desired attributes and characteristics.
In the medical field : making Silk dough to be placed on the wound,
which heal without surgical intervention.
Surgeons use silkworm Guts in surgery, as well as the fishermen
in their nets.
Today nylon used in surgical applications and contraception.

The Chinese used dried silkworms in the treatment of white

muscardine disease.
In the economic field :
Silk yields significant financial income up to 500 million U.S. dollars
annually. Therefore countries as china, Japan, Spain, France, and
Italy give much attention to silk industry. Silk is wealth for any
country , one cocoon gives 914 m of silk, and 300 cocoons give a
pound of silk.
In the entertainment sphere :
designing a web site to educate children stages of life silkworms
Silk pictures:
A) silk made tableau , of silkworms, the
painting is of flowers, animals ,and others .
B) Silk painting of 2 fish.
C) Silk tableau of jelly fish swimming in
water.
D) Silk skilled painting for egyptian king.
E) White Silk painting of river horse.
F) Silk painting of beach.
G) Silk smooth picture.
Natural silk as decoration:
Silk worm tree design of November 2006: camomile of joy and
optimistic view" , consisting of red and white flowers, and
colored glass and golden silk threads giving beauty, and
happiness.