SOLID WASTE:

Solid waste means any garbage, refuse, sludge from a wastewater treatment
plant, water supply treatment plant, or air pollution control facility and other
discarded materials including solid, liquid, semi-solid, or contained gaseous
material, resulting from industrial, commercial, mining and agricultural
operations
Composting:
1.
Composting is nature's process of recycling decomposed organic materials
into a rich soil known as compost. Anything that was once living will
decompose. Basically, backyardcomposting is an acceleration of the same
process nature uses.
What is vermicomposting

Its the process of composting using various worms to create a heterogeneous

mixture .
Mixture made of food waste , bedding material and vermicast.
Vermicast, also called worm castings, worm humus or worm manure, is the endproduct of the breakdown of organic matter by an earthworm.
Containing water-soluble nutrients, vermicomposting is an excellent, nutrient-rich
organic fertilizer and soil conditioner. This process is called vermicomposting
(OR)
Worm composting is using worms to recycle food scraps and other organic
material into a valuable soil amendment called vermicompost, orworm
compost. Worms eat food scraps, which become compost as they pass
through the worm's body.
TYPES OF WORMS:
One of the earthworm species most often used for composting is the Red
Wiggler (Eisenia fetida or Eisenia andrei); Lumbricus rubellus(a.k.a. red
earthworm or dilong (China)) is another breed of worm that can be used, but it
does not adapt as well to the shallow compost bin as does Eisenia fetida.
Type ofworms used for composting
The best kind of earthworms to use are red worms, also known as
"red wigglers" and "manure worms". These worms thrive in decomposing
organic matter such as leaf piles, compost heaps and old manure piles. They are
smaller than nightcrawlers and are reddish brown in color.
BENEFITS:
Soil
Improves soil aeration
Enriches soil with micro-organisms (adding enzymes such
as phosphatase and cellulase)
Microbial activity in worm castings is 10 to 20 times higher than in the soil and
organic matter that the worm ingests [27]
Attracts deep-burrowing earthworms already present in the soil
Improves water holding capacity[28]
Plant growth
Enhances germination, plant growth, and crop yield
Improves root growth and structure

Enriches soil with micro-organisms (adding plant hormones such

as auxins and gibberellic acid)[citation needed]
Economic
Biowastes conversion reduces waste flow to landfills
Elimination of biowastes from the waste stream reduces contamination of other
recyclables collected in a single bin (a common problem in communities
practicing single-stream recycling[29])
Creates low-skill jobs at local level
Low capital investment and relatively simple technologies make
vermicomposting practical for less-developed agricultural regions
Environmental
Helps to close the "metabolic gap" through recycling waste on-site
Large systems often use temperature control and mechanized harvesting,
however other equipment is relatively simple and does not wear out quickly [citation
needed]

Production reduces greenhouse gas emissions such as methane and nitric

oxide (produced in landfills or incinerators when not composted or
through methane harvest)[30]
AS FERTILIZER:
Vermicompost can be mixed directly into the soil, or steeped in water and made
into a worm tea by mixing some vermicompost in water, bubbling in oxygen with
a small air pump, and steeping for a number of hours or days.
The microbial activity of the compost is greater if it is aerated during this period.
The resulting liquid is used as a fertilizer or sprayed on the plants.
The dark brown waste liquid, or leachate, that drains into the bottom of some
vermicomposting systems as water-rich foods break down, is best applied back
to the bin when added moisture is needed due to the possibility
of phytotoxin content and organic acids that may be toxic to plants. [9]
The pH, nutrient, and microbial content of these fertilizers varies upon the inputs
fed to worms. Pulverized limestone, or calcium carbonate can be added to the
system to raise the pH.
Climate and temperature
The most common worms used in composting systems, redworms (Eisenia
foetida, Eisenia andrei, and Lumbricus rubellus) feed most rapidly at
temperatures of 1525 C (59-77 F). They can survive at 10 C (50 F).
Temperatures above 30 C (86 F) may harm them.[13]This temperature range
means that indoor vermicomposting with redworms is possible in all but tropical
climates.[14] (Other worms likePerionyx excavatus are suitable for warmer
climates.[15]) If a worm bin is kept outside, it should be placed in a sheltered
position away from direct sunlight and insulated against frost in winter.

It is necessary to monitor the temperatures of large-scale bin systems (which can

have high heat-retentive properties), as the feedstocks used can compost,
heating up the worm bins as they decay and killing the worms.
Suitable species
One of the earthworm species most often used for composting is the Red Wiggler
(Eisenia fetida or Eisenia andrei); Lumbricus rubellus (a.k.a. red earthworm or
dilong (China)) is another breed of worm that can be used, but it does not adapt
as well to the shallow compost bin as does Eisenia fetida. European
nightcrawlers (Eisenia hortensis) may also be used. Users refer to European
nightcrawlers by a variety of other names, including dendrobaenas, dendras, and
Belgian nightcrawlers. African Nightcrawlers (Eudrilus eugeniae) are another set
of popular composters. Lumbricus terrestris (a.k.a. Canadian nightcrawlers (US)
or common earthworm (UK)) are not recommended, as they burrow deeper than
most compost bins can accommodate.[4]
Blueworms (Perionyx excavatus) may be used in the tropics.[5]
These species commonly are found in organic-rich soils
throughout Europe and North America and live in rotting vegetation, compost,
and manure piles. They may be aninvasive species in some areas.[1][6] As they are
shallow-dwelling and feed on decomposing plant matter in the soil, they adapt
easily to living on food or plant waste in the confines of a worm bin.
Composting worms are available to order online, from nursery mail-order
suppliers or angling shops where they are sold as bait. They can also be
collected from compost and manure piles. These species are not the same
worms that are found in ordinary soil or on pavement when the soil is flooded by
water

Worms And Vermicomposting: Best Types Of Worms For Vermicomposting

Image by popovaphoto
By Jackie Carroll
Vermicomposting is a quick, efficient way to convert kitchen scraps into a rich
soil amendment using earthworms. Vermicompost worms break down organic
matter, such as kitchen scraps, into waste products called castings. Although
castings may be waste to the worms, they are a rich treasure for gardeners.
Vermicompost is richer in essential plant nutrients, such
as nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium, than traditional compost. It also
contains microbes that help plants grow.
Can Any Type of Earthworm be Used for Vermicomposting?
The best types of worms for vermicomposting are red wigglers (Eisenia fetida)
and redworms (Lumbricus rubellus). These two species make great worms for the
compost bin because they prefer a compost environment to plain soil, and they
are very easy to keep. Worms that feed on vegetable waste, compost, and
organic bedding produce richer casting than those that feed on plain soil.
You wont find red wigglers in garden soil. You may find redworms near compost,
under rotting logs, and in other organic situations. The problem is identifying
them. You wont be able to tell the difference betweenLumbricus rubellus and
other worms, so its best to buy them. If you dont have a local supplier, you can
order them on the internet. It takes one pound of worms (1,000 individuals) to
start a good-sized compost bin.

Worms and vermicomposting bins dont smell, so you cankeep worms indoors
year round. Its a great way to use up your kitchen scraps, and the kids will enjoy
helping out with the worm farm. If you choose the right vermicomposting worm
types and feed them regularly (about one-half pound of food scraps per pound of
worms per day), youll have a steady supply of vermicompost for your garden.
MATERIALS:
Starting Materials
A worm bin, purchased or made from easily accessible and inexpensive
materials according to our instructions. There are several types of worm bins and
the type you have will slightly impact how you care for your worms. In general,
plastic bins are more vulnerable to overheating when exposed to direct sunlight
and retain more water compared to wood bins. Stacking and flow through bins
generally drain much more readily than single-compartment bins, though all
should have at least some way to avoid pooling water.
Shredded newspaper, enough to fill your bin about 2/3 full when dry and
fluffed up. If you would like to use another type of material such as shredded
cardboard, straw, dried leaves, etc for bedding, just keep in mind that bedding
serves several purposes: 1) to provide a carbon source, 2) to provide bulk and
help keep food waste from matting down and blocking airflow, and 3) to absorb
excess moisture. Straw can provide carbon and can provide bulk, but does not
absorb much moisture, whereas cardboard doesnt bulk up very well. Newspaper
meets all 3 needs. If you dont use newspaper, use a mix of other materials so all
needs are met.
Additional organic material is optional but can be very helpful when setting
up a new bin as it can help introduce the proper microorganisms to the system. A
bit of near-finished compost from another (healthy) bin can provide a starter
microbe population that will reproduce faster than new microbes that must
colonize the bin from scratch. If you are re-starting a bin after harvesting, keep a
small amount of the harvested compost in the bin to help ease the transition and
keep the microbe population consistent. Some compost bin kits include materials
such as coir for bedding, this works well though it is probably best to mix it with
a primary bedding like newspaper.

Food waste should consist of fruit and vegetable scraps and/or coffee grounds.
Acidic or potent items such as citrus, onions, and hot peppers must be avoided
remember that a worms body is basically one large mucus membrane, so
anything that stings your eye will be very painful for them. Some people feed
their worms bread, rice, or beans, but be aware that these items may ferment or
mold heavily in your bin and may disturb the worms in large quantities. Meat,
dairy, and oils should be kept out of the bin as they will cause odors and attract
pests.
Worms should be red wiggler worms, or Einsenia fetida. Some people use
nightcrawlers or blue worms, but red wrigglers are considered the standard for
vermicomposting because they can tolerate a wider range of conditions while
still being extremely productive. You should have about 1 lb, or 1000 worms, for
every square foot of bin space. You can buy worms at Island Seed and
Feed, Healing Grounds Nursery, Uncle Jims Worm Farm, and many garden and
hardware stores.

1.

2.
3.

4.
5.

6.
7.
8.

SETUP:
Setup
If possible, you should try to set up your bin about two days before adding
worms. This allows the moisture level to reach equilibrium and lets the food
waste start to break down worms do not actually eat fresh foods but rather feed
on the microbes that thrive by decomposing food scraps.
Cover the bottom of your bin with a layer of shredded newspaper. Mix it
with your hand so that it is fairly fluffed up (it will compact with food and water,
this is fine for the most part).
Add food waste. Start lightly, about a pound of food per pound of worms.
The worms may be in shock for a day or two upon entering the new system and
you want to make sure you dont overfeed them. For this first feeding, you can
apply food in a fairly even layer across the bin.
Cover the food waste with a new layer of dried shredded newspaper.
Again, make sure it is fluffed rather than compacted.
If possible, let the bin sit for a day or two before adding worms. Check the
bin to make sure moisture from the food has spread to the paper so that
everything is lightly moist and there are no pooling liquids. If you cannot wait
before adding worms or if the newspaper bedding is still dry, carefully add a
small amount of water and mix the bin to moisten all material. If liquid is not
draining or is accumulating in pools, see our troubleshooting guide.
Pull back the top layer of paper, add worms and any organic bedding (coir,
any material your worms came with, or old worm castings), and re-cover with the
newspaper layer.
Close the bin and place it somewhere where it will stay between 50 and 80
degrees and will not be in direct sunlight.
You may want to shine a desk lamp or porch light at the worm bin for the
first night. Worms often take a day or two to settle into their new home and may
try to escape the bin, but their intense dislike of light can keep them inside.

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4.
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Table of Contents
Introduction
Important Facts About Vermicasting
Vermicast Fertilizer Characteristics
Earthworms 101
Bin or Reactor Design
Batch Systems
Continuous Flow Systems
Example Bin Design for Two-Person Household
Separating Earthworms From the Vermicasts
Conclusion
References
Introduction
Vermicasting, also called vermicomposting, is the processing of organic wastes
through earthworms (Figure 1). It is a natural, odourless, aerobic process, much
different from traditional composting. Earthworms ingest waste then excrete
casts dark, odourless, nutrient- and organically rich, soil mud granules that
make an excellent soil conditioner. Earthworm casts are a ready-to-use fertilizer
that can be used at a higher rate of application than compost, since nutrients are
released at rates that growing plants prefer.
Vermicasting can be done on a small scale by homeowners with household
organic wastes, on a large-scale by farmers with manure or by the food industry
using organic wastes such as fruit and vegetable cull materials. Through proper
design, vermicasting is a method of waste handling that:

is clean, socially acceptable, with little to no odour

requires no energy input for aeration
reduces the mass of waste by 30%
produces a valuable vermicast byproduct
even generates worms as fishing bait
Important Facts About Vermicasting
Turning organic wastes into casts takes 2232 days, depending on density
of waste and earthworm maturity (regular composting requires 3040 days,
followed by 34 months curing).
Vermicast does not need curing, but fresh casts undergo 2 weeks of
nitrification where ammonium transforms to nitrate, a form that plants can
uptake.
Use organic materials that meet the earthworm's feed preferences,
including a material density of 350650 g/L.
Worms should not be crowded, so the ideal stocking density is 150
earthworms/L of wastes.
Earthworms ingest about 75% of their body weight/day; a 0.2 g worm eats
about 0.15 g/day.
If you discover earthworms trying to escape any system, it is a good
indication that something is wrong with their feed or environment

Earthworms should be allowed about 1 week to migrate from finished

vermicast to fresh waste.
Vermicast Fertilizer Characteristics
Nutrients
Vermicast nutrient content varies with earthworm feed type, but feeding waste
to earthworms does cause nitrogen mineralization, followed by phosphorous and
sulphur mineralization after egestion. A typical nutrient analysis of casts is C:N
ratio 1215:1; 1.5%2.5% N, 1.25%2.25% P2O5 and 1%2%, K2O at 75%80%
moisture content. The slow-release granules structure of earthworm casts allows
nutrients to be released relatively slowly in sync with plant needs.
Salinity
Ammonium is the main contributor to salinity levels. Earthworms are repelled by
salinity levels above 5 mg/g. Therefore, if the starting material is low in salt, the
resulting vermicast will be as well. In fresh vermicast, ammonium mineralized in
the earthworm gut is nitrified over 2 weeks.
Pathogens
Pathogen levels are low in vermicast, which is considered a Type A biosolid when
excreted by earthworms. This is a lower pathogen level than in typical composts.
Vermicast is low in pathogens because earthworms consume fungi, and aerobic
bacteria do not survive low oxygen levels in the gut. Low pathogen levels could
also be due to the fact that vermicasting does not build up heat, which allows
disease-suppressing organisms to survive the vermicasting process and
outcompete pathogens.
Earthworms 101
Earthworms are epigeic (surface dwellers), endogeic (burrow up to 15 cm deep)
or anecic (burrow vertical channels, about 1 m deep). Epigeic earthworms such
as Eisenia fetida (red wigglers) are the best adapted to ingest organic wastes.
Earthworms can double their population in 60 days.
Digestion

Red wigglers can consume 75% of their body weight per day. Earthworms weigh
about 0.2 g and require oxygen and water, both exchanged through their skin.
As organic matter passes through the earthworm gut, it is mineralized into
ammonium (later nitrified) and other plant nutrients. The grinding effect of its
gizzard and the effect of its gut muscle movement result in the formation of
casts. Most pathogens are consumed in the earthworm gut, since earthworms
feed on fungi, and pathogenic bacteria cannot survive in the low-oxygen
environment inside the earthworm gut.
Feed Preferences
The ideal feed for earthworms is food or animal waste and fresh, green, plant
waste, rich in nitrogen or precomposted (for up to 2 weeks to make it easier to
digest). Ideally, earthworm feed has a 25:1 carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio and a
pH between 6.5 and 8 (close to neutral) sudden pH fluctuations repel
earthworms.
Ideal earthworm feed is:

porous, allowing oxygen to penetrate

warm (25C): worms can survive in temperatures 0C35C, but at lower
temperatures they are not as active and die at freezing temperatures
moist, but not wet: 75% moisture is ideal, like wet soil at field capacity
(earthworms migrate out of wet materials)
not too dense: below 640 kg/m3 (40 lb/ft3) like the fluffy density of peat
moss
not salty: below 0.5% salinity higher is too toxic
devoid of toxins such as de-worming medicine, detergent cleansers,
pesticides and tannins
Online calculators for optimizing worm feeds are available. Search online for
"vermicasting, feed mixtures with optimal characteristics." The calculation uses
the percentage nitrogen, percentage carbon, water content and density of each
feed material, plus the total desired feed quantity.
Light Sensitivity
Earthworms have eye-cells on their skin that trigger pain when exposed to any
light but blue light, keeping them underground during daylight. They will try to
leave any material if it does not meet their feed requirements, but if a light is
shining at the surface of the material, they will stay where they are.

Bin or Reactor Design

The goal for any vermicasting system is to:

provide worms with a palatable feed

have worms digest waste at the highest rate possible
keep worms from migrating out of or to the edge of the windrows, raised
beds or bins (Figure 2)
Waste must:

have the required pH and salinity levels

be moist but drained of excess water
be neither too cold nor too hot
be stacked in thin layers that diffuse air

Drainage and Aeration

For appropriate drainage and aeration, container walls, bottom and side
walls must be made of a perforated material. Many commercially available
vermicasting bins have a few holes at the bottom for drainage, but this is not
enough. A screen-type floor surface allows drainage, unlike common bedding
materials. A screen size of 4 mm (5/32 in.) will keep most waste particles in.

Earthworms will not fall through this size of hole but they can burrow
through this size of hole to get to fresh wastes if need be.

Some commonly used bedding types are dense and can become
waterlogged, not allowing air to diffuse through the drainage/aeration holes in
the bin bottom. Instead, consider using a layer of finished vermicast on the bin
bottom for the start-up period because worms will burrow through it, resulting in
good aeration and drainage. Starting with a vermicast layer also provides room
to keep the worm stocking density lower than the maximum 300 worms/L of
material. Higher densities reduce worm efficiency. Keep an air space of at least
510 cm depth (24 in.) below the screen floor for free drainage. Earthworms
could burrow through the 4-mm screening on the bottom of the bin, but they
choose not to because there is no food there, just open air. Leachate draining
through can be collected and reintroduced to the bin.

Moisture

Waste materials should have a moisture content of 75% (field capacity),

never more than 85%. Regular watering, or automatic sprinkling in the case of
large scale systems, is usually needed. If waste materials with elevated levels of
water content are added, such as food waste (fruits and vegetables are about
90% moisture), watering is not necessary, and drainage will correct the moisture
level if it exceeds 75%.

Thickness of the Waste Layer

To prevent anaerobic conditions (lack of oxygen), which can result in

fermentation and heat build-up, design the vermicasting bin, raised bed or
windrow pile to keep the waste layer at a thickness of 30 cm (1 ft) or less. This
thickness allows air to passively diffuse into the material, aided by the canals
burrowed by earthworms. This keeps the pile aerated and cool, which
earthworms prefer. A thin layer of waste helps prevent compaction of the bottom
of the waste pile, which might cause poor aeration, fermentation and heat, all of
which repel earthworms.

Active aeration, mixing and temperature control of such a thin layer of

waste occurs through the burrowing action of the earthworms. The earthworms
do the work, unlike an active composting system where aeration, mixing and
temperature control are accomplished by fans and/or machinery.

Temperature

Since earthworms require a temperature range of 0C35C (optimum is

25C), year-round vermicasting systems must be designed carefully for the
Ontario climate. The process is odourless but does not generate heat on its own,
so one option is to place the bin indoors. If this is not possible, insulate bins and
place them partly underground in a sheltered location to help temper outside
temperature fluctuations.

Odours and Flies

Odorous gases (volatile organic compounds) and heat are produced during
fermentation, which can occur in poorly aerated (anaerobic) organic materials.
This is often a problem in compost piles if they are not aerated or mixed.

However, earthworms thrive in aerobic conditions, where fermentation and the

resulting heat and odours do not occur. If designed properly, vermicasters do not
produce odours.

When a vermicaster does produce odours and flies, it is likely due to

excess water. Proper drainage using raised screen surfaces (4 mm) at the bottom
of the container and/or reducing the thickness of the waste to no more than 30
cm should resolve this situation.

Batch Systems

The system can be designed as batch or continuous flow. In a batch

system, the waste is inoculated with earthworms, which then process the entire
quantity of waste into vermicast. The casts are collected and separated from the
earthworms, ending the process.

In a continuous-flow vermicaster, fresh waste is added at one end of the

process, while finished vermicast is collected from the other. This can happen at
opposite ends or opposite heights of a windrow, bin or raised bed (Figure 2).
Current industrial vermicasting machinery features mechanized beds where two
adjacent moving surfaces cause finished vermicast at the bottom of the bed to
fall through its perforated surface, as fresh waste is added at the top. On a
domestic scale, the same vertical continuous flow system is used in suspended
bags (Figure 3) whereby the user can collect finished vermicast from a closable
opening at the bottom of the bag. Fresh waste is added from an opening at the
top.
Continuous Flow Systems
A vermicast system is dynamic. What happens in a typical two-bin system, over
time, determines its optimum dimensions, the required starting amount of
earthworms, the amount of starting medium required for the earthworms to
burrow in and the bin cycle time.

Figure 4 was created using simulation software and shows how much waste is
consumed over time, how much volume the waste and earthworm casts take up
and how crowded the worms are over time.
At Day 0, all earthworms are in Bin 1 (blue) where waste is added daily
and entirely consumed by Day 16. This is where the unconsumed waste area
tapers off in the graph.

At Day 16, Bin 2 (brown) is placed on top of Bin 1. Bin 2 is partially filled
with fresh waste and starting medium, side-by-side, on its 4-mm screened floor
in order to attract earthworms from Bin 1 below to burrow up into Bin 2.
See Figures 2 (left), 4 and 5.
All earthworms move into Bin 2 over 1 week, as shown by overlapping
earthworm density curves between Days 16 and 23.
After Day 16, all fresh waste is added daily to Bin 2 and consumed by Day
32.
The two "dips" in the brown area of unconsumed waste are due to not
having waste put into the bin for 2 days out of the cycle, which commonly
happens, for example, when people are away from home for a day or two.
The peak volume values occur on Days 15 and 30 at 68 L (68,000 cm 3),
which is the minimum bin volume required for one cycle.
1.5 kg of earthworms will consume 30 days' worth of household waste
from a two-person household (3 L/day) over a one-month period.
1.5 kg of earthworms is 7,500 worms at 0.2 g each.
To prevent worms from being densely packed, divide the number of worms
(7,500) by a maximum stocking density of 250 worms/L = 30 L of starting
medium required. Finished worm cast works well as a medium and will be
needed in each bin. 250 worms/L is high, but drops over time as fresh wastes are
added daily.
Figure 4 shows that 15 days' worth of waste would be added to the
original starting medium of 30 L of casts.
Since the depth of materials should never exceed 30 cm, while
the minimum bin volume must be 68 L (68,000 cm3), a square bin width and
length of 50 cm x 50 cm will give more than enough room (30 cm x 50 cm x 50
cm = 75,000 cm3, or 75 L)
The result is a one-month cycle and an easy separation of earthworms from the
waste. As shown inFigure 4, the cycle includes points in time where a second
bin is added on top of the first and where earthworms finish migrating out of the
first bin into the second, allowing finished vermicast to be collected. Online
calculators are available to determine time and bin volume requirement for any
daily rate of waste. Search online for "vermicasting, optimal bin size."
A throughput system (Figure 3) would be similar to two superimposed bins,
except that earthworms would continuously transition from finished vermicast at
the bottom to fresh waste at the top. Based on the graph in Figure 4, 5 L of
vermicast could be removed from a throughput system only five days into the
process, then about 1 L per day after, assuming an ideal earthworm stocking
density. This creates space for more fresh waste.
Separating Earthworms From the Vermicasts
Earthworms can be separated from their vermicasts by:

placing fresh feed at the opposite end of the continuous flow system,
attracting them away from the finished vermicast
mechanical sieving by a drum screen or a moving grate at the bottom of a
bin or raised bed (Figure 2)
mild heating
drying the vermicast materials with a fan in a batch process, diverting
worms to moister material
repelling them by using low-level electric current (this method is in the
research stage and requires careful design because of safety concerns)
Conclusion
A properly designed vermicasting system will process organic waste into
vermicast in 2230 days. This process self-aerates and does not require
mechanical aeration or mixing. Earthworm beddings commonly used in
earthworm bins can be replaced with a screen or mesh raised bottom surface
and enough finished vermicast to prevent excessive earthworm stocking density
and provide proper drainage. Adequate drainage and aeration prevent odours,
flies or the migration of earthworms out of the waste. Vermicasting can be done
on a domestic, farm or industrial scale in waste-processing facilities and could be
sited near residential areas, minimizing waste and fertilizer transportation costs.
When added to plants, vermicast has been shown to improve resistance to
disease, yield and protein content of plants relative to other commercial
fertilizers.

4. Vermicomposting
The term vermicomposting means the use of earthworms (Plate 9) for
composting organic residues. Earthworms can consume practically all kinds of
organic matter and they can eat their own body weight per day, e.g. 1 kg of
worms can consume 1 kg of residues every day. The excreta (castings) of the
worms are rich in nitrate, available forms of P, K, Ca and Mg. The passage of soil
through earthworms promotes the growth of bacteria and actinomycetes.
Actinomycetes thrive in the presence of worms and their content in worm casts is
more than six times that in the original soil.
Types of worms
A moist compost heap of 2.4 m by 1.2 m and 0.6 m high can support a
population of more than 50 000 worms. The introduction of worms into a
compost heap has been found to mix the materials, aerate the heap and hasten
decomposition. Turning the heaps is not necessary where earthworms are
present to do the mixing and aeration. The ideal environment for the worms is a

shallow pit and the right sort of worm is necessary. Lumbricus rubellus (red
worm) and Eisenia foetida are thermo-tolerant and so particularly useful. Field
worms (Allolobophora caliginosa) and night crawlers (Lumbricus terrestris) attack
organic matter from below but the latter do not thrive during active composting,
being killed more easily than the others at high temperature.
European night crawlers (Dendrabaena veneta or Eisenia hortensis) are produced
commercially and have been used successfully in most climates. These night
crawlers grow to about 10-20 cm. The African night crawler (Eudrilus eugeniae),
is a large, tropical worm species. It tolerates higher temperatures than Eisenia
foetida does, provided there is ample humidity. However, it has a narrow
temperature tolerance range, and it cannot survive at temperatures below 7 C.
Vermicomposting is in use in many countries. Experiences from selected
countries are described as case studies.
Composting procedure
A series of pits (the number depending on the space available) were dug
approximately 3 m 4 m 1 m deep, with sloping sides. Bamboo poles were
laid in a parallel row on the pit floor and covered with a lattice of wood strips.
This provided the necessary drainage as the worms could not have survived in a
waterlogged environment.
The pits were lined with old feedstuff sacks to prevent the worms from escaping
into the surrounding soil and yet permit drainage of excess water. The pits were
then filled with rural organic residues such as straw and other crop residues,
animal manure, green weeds, and leaves. The filled pits were covered loosely
with soil and kept moist for a week or so. One or two spots on the heap were
then well watered and worms from the breeding boxes were place on top. The
worms burrowed down immediately into the damp soil.
In order to harvest the worms from the boxes, two-thirds of the box was emptied
into a new box lined with banana leaf or old newspaper. The original box was
then provided with fresh bedding material and those worms remaining multiplied
again. The worms emptied from the box were picked out by hand for adding to
the heap.

The compost pits were left for a period of two months; ideally such pits should be
shaded from hot sunshine and kept moist. Within two months, about 10 kg of
castings had been produced per kilogram of worms. The pits were then
excavated to an extent of about two-thirds to three-quarters and the bulk of the
worms removed by hand or by sieving. This left sufficient worms in the pit for
further composting, and the pit was refilled with fresh organic residues. The
compost was sun-dried and sieved to produce good quality material. A typical
analysis was: organic matter, 9.3 percent; N, 8.3 percent; P, 4.5 percent; K, 1.0
percent (water soluble); Ca, 0.4 percent; and Mg, 0.1 percent.
The excess worms harvested from the pits were then either used in other pits,
sold to other farmers for the same purpose, used or sold as animal feed
supplement, used or sold as fish food, or used in certain human food
preparations.

Vermiculture in India
This approach (Jambhhekar, 2002) uses the following materials: breeder worms,
a wooden bed and organic wastes. The bed should be of the desired length and
about 75 cm high 120 cm wide. Worms should be applied for every part of
waste. Other steps in the process are:

Sieving and shredding - decomposition can be accelerated by shredding

raw materials into small pieces.

Blending - carbonaceous substances such as sawdust, paper and straw

can be mixed with N-rich materials such as sewage sludge, biogas slurry
and fish scraps to obtain a near optimum C:N ratio. A varied mixture of
substances produces good quality compost, rich in macronutrients and
micronutrients.

Half digestion - the raw materials should be kept in piles and the
temperature allowed to reach 50-55 C. The piles should remain at this
temperature for seven to ten days.

Maintaining moisture, temperature and pH - the optimum moisture level

for maintaining aerobic conditions is 40-45 percent. Proper moisture and

aeration can be maintained by mixing fibrous with N-rich materials. The

temperature of the piles should be 28-30 C. Higher or lower temperatures
reduce the activity of microflora and earthworms. The height of the bed
can help control the rise in temperature. The pH of the raw material should
not exceed 6.5-7.
The compost is ready after about one month. It is black, granular, lightweight
and humus-rich. In order to facilitate the separating of the worms from the
compost, watering should cease two to three days before emptying the beds.
This forces about 80 percent of the worms to the bottom of the bed. The
remaining worms can be removed by hand. The vermicompost is then ready for
application.
Some entrepreneurs have made modifications, e.g. making the floor leakproof,
and providing a covered shade in order to ensure temperature regulation and
protection against accumulation of excessive water in the rainy season. Although
this adds to the cost, the improved efficiency of vermicomposting and faster rate
of growth of earthworms more than offsets this additional cost.
The excess water, which may be leached along with the earthworms extracts, is
also collected from the concrete flooring and recirc