Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Introduction
Whether you are building a bridge as a contractor for a community or in cooperation
with that community, their involvement is essential. The project can proceed smoothly
with them; the project can face many obstacles without. But when the project is
completed, the bridge is theirs to use. If they are involved in the process they are better
equipped not only with motivation but also with knowledge to maintain the bridge their
eorts have helped to become a reality.
Working together we can build not only a bridge but a future.
Volume 3: Suspended
Preparation
Excavation Layout
Excavation in Soil
Excavation in Rock
Section 5: Construction
5.1
Bridge Terminology Guide
5.2
Masonry
5.3
Foundation Tier Construction
5.4
Tower Construction
5.5
Anchor Construction & Cable Installation: Beam
5.6
Anchor Construction & Cable Installation: Drum
5.7
Cable Sag Setting
5.8
Cable Clamp Installation
5.9
Cable Care
5.10 Bridge Approach Construction
5.11 Deck Installation
5.12 Deck Approach
5.13 Fencing Installation
Volume 3: Suspended
_________________________________
Location (GPS):
_______________________________
Community:
_______________________________
Region, Country:
_______________________________
Engineer (s):
_______________________________
_______________________________
Section 1:
Construction Overview
Preparation
Total time required variable, between 2 and 4 weeks
> Material Collection and Excavation
Responsibilities
Community (NGO/Gov.)
Implementing Agency
Labor
Supervision 5 days
River rock
Sand, gravel, and blocks
Construction materials
Cement, rebar & misc. items
Construction
Total time required variable, between 2.5 and 4 months
> Foundation Tiers
Time Required: 4 weeks
Responsibilities
Community (NGO/Gov.)
Implementing Agency
Labor
Supervision 5 days
Masons
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Section 2:
Quality Control
As many of the bridge projects will be completed without the design engineer on-site, the submission of checklists and pictures of the project
are essential to ensure quality control. The pictures provide a visual confirmation that each step in this manual has been conducted carefully
and correctly. A file including the picture inventory should accompany the final bridge record detailing the bridge data, which can be located in
the final pages of this construction manual.
Picture Submission Requirements
Site
Profile (from both up and down stream)
Location of foundations with marked centerline
Excavation
Complete excavations
Distance from back anchor to front tower
Anchor depth
Foundation Tiers & Towers
Completed foundations
Rebar installation in tower
Completed towers
Saddle alignment
Installation of walkway cables
Anchors
Constructed rebar cages
Cross-section of cable, for size and lay
Cable position in excavation
Completed Anchors
Sag Set
Balanced T after sag set cables
Clamp spacing
Torque technique used
Representative photo of clamped cable
Volume 3: Suspended
Section 3:
Material preparation
3.1
Required Materials
Pre-Construction Materials
All construction materials should be prepared at site before starting construction with the possible exception of the steel cables and decking
materials which may be delivered upon completion of towers. Consult the material quantity estimate in Part 2 for this bridge and ensure
quantities are correct.
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3.3
Stone
Broken Stone: ____m3 (Quantity from Part 2: Construction Drawings)
Broken stone is used for fill in the walls of the structure. Broken
stone needs merely to be available on the site. No preparation is
required.
Dressed Stone: ____m3 (Quantity from Part 2)
Dressed stone is dressed to be square with hammers and chisels.
There are two types of dressed stones:
> Corner Stones: ___m3 (Quantity from Part 2)
Two sides of a stone need to be cleanly chiseled and square
for use at the corners of the towers. Stones should be
approximately 20 cm x 28 cm.
> Face Stones : ___m3 (Quantity from Part 2)
The face of one side (of a generally four sided stone)
needs
to be cleanly chiseled straight and square as it will be
placed facing out from the masonry work. Stones should be
approximately 20 cm x 28 cm.
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Gravel
The coarse aggregate (gravel) will be used in the concrete mixture and should be rough and
clean with broken faces; rounded particles will not adhere well in the mixture and should
be avoided, if possible. Dirt and organics in the mixture will also decrease mix strength, and
any aggregate containing soils must be washed until clean. Gravel obtained from quarries
where it has been crushed is the best source. Riverside gravel should be broken with a
hammer to form rougher surfaces. Maximum gravel size is always 7 cm, but is usually
smaller and dependent on the formwork and dimensions of the rebar. Aggregates larger
than 5 cm inches will usually reduce concrete strength. Gravel can be collected from river
deposits or by breaking boulders into the necessary size.
Sand
The sand will be used for the concrete mixture and the sand sizes should also be well
graded. The best design has 50% medium size particles with decreasing amounts of very
large and very small particles. Thus, if there is a supply of very fine sand (such as found in
many beaches), it should be thoroughly mixed with coarser sand from another location.
Sand can be collected from river deposits or from a quarry. The quality of the sand should
be assessed before collection. Check the content of impurities such as mud, clay, debris,
silt etc. and avoid sand with a high content of these materials to reduce the need for
washing. Sand with silt must be washed out in grain sacks at river before use.
Note: Silt is a material when rubbed between
your fingers leaves a colored smear, yet lacks the
earthen smell of organic soils.
Volume 3: Suspended
11
Materials at site:
Material item
Actual quantity
at site
Date of
delivery
Notes
Local Materials
Sand
Broken Stone
Dressed Stone
Gravel
Construction Materials
Cement bags
Masonry blocks
Steel reinforcement bar 12 mm
Steel reinforcement bar, 14 mm
Steel reinforcement bar, 18 mm
Steel reinforcement bar, 25 mm
Handrail Saddles
Predrilled Walkway Saddle Angle Iron &
rebar thread pieces (20 cm each)
Bendable plastic Tubing, 2 diameter
Tie Wire
Tools at Site:
Material item
Shovel
Pick
Excavation bar
Wheelbarrow
20 liter (5 gallon) buckets
Machete
Measuring tape, 5 meters
Masonry tools (if not provided by mason)
Woodsaw and blades
Hacksaw and extra blades
Quantity
Rqd
4
2
1
2
6
1
2
2 SETS
1
2
Material item
Quantity Rqd
x
Hammers
100 meter tape
Bendable plastic tubing
Suspender rebar
Rebar
Calculator with Sine & Cosine
Rock chisel
Roofing tar
Flagging stakes
Vice grips
5
1
SEE DRAWINGS
SEE DRAWINGS
SEE DRAWINGS
1
4
5 LITERS
20
2
2 kg sledgehammer
4 kg sledgehammer (if stone work)
1
1
Rice sacks
4 screws or lag bolts
4
MIN. 1 PER
CROSSBEAM
1000
Nails
Abney level
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
Date: __________________
*This page must be copied and attached to Bridge Completion Record upon completion of bridge.
Pedestrian Bridge Construction Quality Control Pg 4
Section 4:
Site Preparation
4.1
Excavation Layout
Tools Required
Spray Paint
String & Picks
Wood saw
Nails
Shovels
Stakes
Hammer
Plumb bob
Step 1
Using the markers R and L on the right and left side fo the river respecitvely, as marked in the survey, measure the distance from R (or L ) to
the front of the tower, according to your design. Place a stake at this point, named FOF(R) for Front of Foundation Right.
Step 2
Find the distance between the front of the tower to the back of the anchor in your plans and place another stake at that point. Finally, go back a
further 2.00 m and place another stake (a). This stake is the permanent center line marker and thus needs to be placed firmly so as not to move
during construction.
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Step 3
Repeat the process on the other side of the river. Run a string between the permanent center line
stakes.
Step 4
Measure the distance from front of foundation (FOF) to front of anchor (FOA) and mark FOA(R).
Step 5: the 3-4-5 method
The four corners of the foundation and anchor blocks respectively are found from the centerline
Using a 12 meter string, pin at FOF(R), and have one person hold the 4.0 meter mark of the
string along the centerline. The second person holds the string at 9.0 meters, repositioning until
the remaining 3.0 meters can reach back to the start point, creating a 3-4-5 triangle. The relative
dimensions of the triangle create a right angle corner. Stake this point, 1. Repeat for all corner
points for both foundation and anchor.
Step 6
Extend string around these four stakes at each of the towers and anchors. These are your
excavation areas.
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4.2
Excavation in Soil
Step 1
Excavate the area indicated in the foundation layout level.
Step 2
Dig the anchor trench according to the measurements given in the plans.
Step 3
Dig out the trenches to access the anchor with cable.
*Note, anchors are often excavated after the towers have been completed.
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4.3
Excavation in Rock
The method of marking front of foundation (FOF(R)) and front of anchor (FOA(R)) is the same
as described in section 4.2 Excavation in Soil.
Foundations placed on solid rock bed do not require excavation to one meter depth. Ensure the
rock surface beneath the tower and foundation area is fractured and clean so as to bond to a
strong first layer of cement.
Soft rock anchors require excavation to one meter depth, but are not required to be at the
same level as the tower excavation. Excavate a soft rock anchor according to the dimensions in
the plan. Since stakes cannot be used substitute with spray paint around the excavation area
(see example diagram).
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Date: __________________
*This page must be copied and attached to Bridge Completion Record upon completion of bridge.
Pedestrian Bridge Construction Quality Control Pg 5
Section 5:
Construction
5.1
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5.2
Masonry
Foundations,
Anchors, Towers
Foundations on
poor soil
Approach walls
and tower fill
*Unit measurements must may be in any size bucket so long as it is consistent for all materials
Exact measurements are an integral aspect to making hard, strong mortar and concrete.
Whatever measurement used box or bucket, the measurements should all be equal so
that the parts are exact. For example: for one level bucket of concrete, use three level
buckets of sand, 6 buckets of gravel and 1.6 buckets of water. Maintaining the proper
amount of water is critical to the strength of the material.
Remember:
Cement must be fresh
Sand must be clean and free of debris
Sand should also be course, not round or shiny
No silt in sand
Water must be clean, not silty
Gravel must be no larger than the size thumb joint
Quantities must be followed: particularly with water
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Gloves
Cement
Gravel
Water
For most sites, use of a portable mixer is not possible and hence a manual method
of concrete mixing is required. In order to ensure material strength properties
assumed in the design, it is important to use only clean and fresh materials and
mix them using the sifting method. The sifting method requires the materials,
quantities of cement, sand and gravel to be added in sifts; 2 buckets of sand
followed by 2 buckets gravel, 2 buckets of cement. Once all of the solid materials
have been properly mixed, slowly add water. By sprinkling the water in sifts
produces the most consistent and strongest mix.
The method of sifting water is superior to the Volcano Method or cone method
that is commonly used. The puddle the water in the middle of the cone shape
does not produce an even and consistent product as when water is mixed slowly
and evenly into the mixture.
Concrete must be used within 60 minutes of mixing to ensure the final strength
of the material. Concrete mixtures that have sat for more than 60 minutes
should be discarded or used in non-structural applications
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Masonry
Tools Required
Chisel
Trowel
Float
String
Hammer
Plumb Bob
Level
Square
There are some important factors that contribute to a masonry structure being strong and long lasting.
Use as many stones as possible and as little mortar.
Always fit the stones in place first before mixing mortar to ensure freshness
Additional dressing may be required to ensure proper fit
Do not use shims or small rocks to balance a stone in place; prepare the stone so that it fits without assistance.
Pack the mortar around the stones with the masonry trowel or fingers to ensure there are no gaps.
Always stagger each layer of masonry as shown below.
Good masonry uses the minimum amount of mortar and chisel dressed stones.
Staggering the layers (alternating joints) so that joints are not above each other is
also key to strong masonry structures.
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5.3
Plumb bob
Buckets
Materials Required
Cement
Gravel
Sand
Water level
Masonry tools
Step 1
Ensure that the foundation hole is level from front to back, side to side. Use a plumb bob,
tape measure and the center line to ensure that the foundations on either side of the river
are square to one another.
Step 2
Pour a thin layer (5cm) of concrete onto the soil at the base of the foundation. (In the case
of hard rock, pour a thick mortar mixture to roughened rock area).
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Step 3
Place the first four (4) corner-stones of the foundation tier (dimensions of foundation tier
according to plans). Ensure the stones are placed square using a plumb bob and level using
a water level.
Step 4
Fill the layer of masonry stones or concrete blocks between the corner stones, around the
perimeter of the foundation tier, placing stones as closely together as possible. If stone,
the wall should be 30 cm thick and if masonry block is used, the wall should be a minimum
15 cm thick.
Step 5
Continue with masonry layers until the tier has reached 1.00m in height.
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Step 6
Fill the foundation within the masonry walls with available rock.
Step 7
Compact the rock fill with sand and gravel.
Step 8
Place a 5 cm layer of cement, 0.70 meters wide or less, around the edges as a base for the
next level.
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Step 9
Verify each tier is correctly sized and straight.
Step 10
Continue with each tier as specified by the construction drawings.
Each tier has less width than the one below it, per the following dimensions.
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X
Foundation
Foundation corners square to centerline?
Foundation filled with rock (not soil)?
Soil foundation minimum depth 1.0 meter?
No water allowed to enter excavation upon completion?
Tier/s
Each tier corners set versus centerline?
Each tier dimensioned in decreasing size with height, per plans?
All concrete used within 30 minutes of mixing?
*If as-built height dierence between the two towers exceeds 5% of span (L/25), increase number of tiers before continuing with tower construction.
Comments of the Supervisor:
Notes on the participation of the community, quality of execution, problems and errors etcetera:
Date: __________________
*This page must be copied and attached to Bridge Completion Record upon completion of bridge.
Pedestrian Bridge Construction Quality Control Pg 6
5.4
tower Construction
Tools Required
String
Shovels
Square
Plumb bob
Buckets
Level
Steel hacksaw
Masonry tools
Wire cutters
Materials Required
Cement
Sand
Gravel
Hammer dressed stone
Tying wire
Tubing
Steel rebar (minimum size requirements):
- 4 pieces steel rebar, 16 mm x 4.50 meters
- (# of walkway cables + 2) pieces, 16 mm x 20 cm
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Saddle rebar
29
Step 1
Align Towers
Mark out the dimensions of the towers from the center line. In the below diagram, points 1
and 2 should be marked with spray paint before measuring and marking tower dimensions
onto the tier. The base of the two symmetrical towers is dimensioned 1.00 meter long
x 2.80 meters wide, as shown to the right. Each tier is built in a similar placement
relationship to tier beneath it (see Foundation & Tier Construction Step 10, page 27).
Tower
footprint
Step 2
Set Corners
Place the four outside corner-blocks ensuring they are level and square
relative to the centerline. Create a second tower centerline to work from and
verify correctness of dimensions from both centerlines, levels and squares.
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Step 3
Build Tower Base
Build the first level of masonry or stone around the outside of tower, allowing
the center to be open for adding rebar in Step #4. The two symmetrical
towers must always be measured from the foundation centerline. The outside
dimension of each tower will be 1.00 m x 0.70 m. This layer should only be the
height of the blocks, or if stone masonry, approximately 20 cm as shown below.
Step 4
Insert Steel Rebar
For each side, 2 each, 16 mm rebar will be bent and extended into the tower structure to tie
together the towers and create a joint tower-foundation. Each should be bent into a U-shape:
2 meters with 1.25 m extending vertically into either tower per the diagram below. Place the two
rebar into the cavity formed from Step 3 and add concrete to a height of 10 cm to cover the rebar.
Step 5
Continuous
rebar
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Step 6
Complete the towers
The towers must be completed to a height of 1.20 meters, typically 6 masonry blocks. Mortar
must be used to complete the area facing the center of the towers to create a flush surface for the
second layer of masonry.
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Step 7
Fill the Towers
Do not fill until the blocks have set. Use specified concrete mixture, typically 1:3:6. The
rebar should be slightly sticking up.
Step 8
Form tops & Handrail Saddles
Using a 1:4 cement-water mortar, form a hump on top of each tower. The
handrail saddles must sit 1.10 meters above the walkway saddles, so form
accordingly.
Install the prefabricated handrail saddles 20 cm from the
inside of the tower, 45 cm from the front of the tower on the anchor side.
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Step 9
Encase Tubes
Synch the tubes for each walkway cable such that the tubes wedge between the rebar
saddles. Form a mound over the tubes such that the river side face forms a right-angled
ledge, and the anchor-side rounds downwards. The flat face will form a flush surface
with the decking. Ensure hose is not encased flat to avoid water collection in tube.
Step 10
Finishing
For a smoother finish after the saddles are set in the 1:3:6 concrete, a
masonry mortar can be used for cosmetic purposes. Finish the towers by
adjusting and adding as necessary to ensure symmetry between the towers.
WALKWAY TOWER TUBE DETAIL
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Height dierence between walkway and handrail saddles equal to 1.10 meters
Walkway saddles aligned with centerline and level?
Handrail saddles aligned with centerline and level?
Rebar used: sizes, lengths and numbers
Date: __________________
*This page will be copied and attached to Bridge Completion Record upon completion of bridge.
Pedestrian Bridge Construction Quality Control Pg 7
5.5
There are two anchor types discussed herein; beam and drum. The latter is only used for hard-rock conditions with spans less than 60 meters.
All other bridge scenarios require a beam type anchor.
Beam type
All Soil Conditions, and Rock Conditions for spans up to 120 meters
Small Anchor = Spans up to 60 meters
Large Anchor = Spans from 60 to 120 meters
Tools Required
String
Shovels
Plumb bob
Buckets
Water level
Wire cutters
Materials Required
Cement
Sand
Gravel
Tie wire
Plastic tubing 2 inner diameter
Cable (specifications must be met, see design guide)
Drop forged cable clamps (specifications must be met, see design guide)
Steel rebar (minimum size requirements--see next page for breakout):
- (4 pieces for small, 8 for large), 20mm x 2.90 meters
- 11 pieces, 10mm, (2.20 m in length for small, 3.35 m for large) bent into square (0.50 m per side for small,
0.80 for large)
- 2 pieces, 20 mm x 3.00 m, bent into U-form for erection hooks
*Designating Anchor with Erection Hook
If a bridge has one rock drum anchor and one soil beam anchor on the other side, the beam anchor is the adjustable anchor. As such,
ensure the erection hook is attached to the beam anchor.
If a bridge has two of the same type of anchor (beam or drum), the lower elevation anchor is the adjustable anchor. As such, ensure the
erection hook is attached to the lower elevation anchor.
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Step 1
Build Beams
Tie together the straight steel rebar with square ties per the following quantities and dimensions:
Small beams: Spans less than 60 meters
4 straight bars, 20mm, 2.90m in length;
11 square rings, 10mm, cut to 2.20m each, bend into
squares 0.50 m per side
Large beams: Spans greater than 60 meters to 120m
8 straight bars, 20mm, 2.90m in length;
11 square rings, 10mm, cut to 3.35m each, bend into
squares 0.80 m per side
Step 2
Add Erection Hooks
Tie 2 erection hooks ONLY to the anchor that will be adjustable. If two similar anchor types
are used (drum or beam), the lower elevation is adjustable. If one drum and one beam
anchor is used, the beam is the adjustable side. Attach the bent rebar erection hooks 0.80
meters from either end of the rebar cages. A winch will attach to the hooks while setting
cable sag, so ensure the hooks are well secured.
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Step 3
Lay out Cable
Lay out the cable to either side of the river, parallel to how the cable will actually be placed.
Step 4
Place Anchors
Set the anchor beams in the foundation pit on top of the cables. The anchor should
sit at an angle of approximately 45 degrees so the front face with the erection hooks is
perpendicular to where the cable will come o the towers. It is helpful to prop the beam
with rocks to allow the anchor to sit at the angle.
Step 5
Pull Cable Over Anchor
Each cable needs to wrap around the anchor and the loose end should be placed into the
approach area. Care needs to be taken to ensure the location of each cable is exactly behind
its respective saddle. A pre-measured alignment board may be helpful. Once secured, the
cable must come o either the walkway or handrail saddle and follow a straight path to
the anchor.
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Step 6
Cable Clamps
Hand-tighten the cable clamps with the dead (cut) end on top of the live end, and the
cable clamp saddle around the live-end of the cable per the specified spacing as seen to
the left. Readjust the alignment of the cables relative to the saddles.
Immediately and fully torque the non-adjustable anchor side (side without erection
hooks) using a minimum 3-foot wrench to specified torque, until the dead end of the
cable has a reduced cross-sectional area of at least 25% as shown bottom left.
THIS IS THE MOST CRITICAL STEP OF CONSTRUCTION. DO NOT PROCEED WITHOUT
PROPER-TORQUE WRENCH AND PROPER DROP-FORGEDCLAMPS.
Step 7
Tar & Add Tubing
Apply roofing tar to all cable that will be covered with earth. Thread 3.5 meters of plastic
tubing on each of the cables on the adjustable side. Ensure minimum inner diameter is
2, 3 (7.5 cm) is preferred. The non-adjustable side does not need tubing. The cables
should sit inside the anchor excavation pit with the loose ends placed such that they are
accessible but do not interfere with placement of the anchor into the pit.
Step 8
Fill the Anchor Excavation
Fill the excavation pit to 1.0 meter depth with concrete, ensuring the entire anchor is
submerged in at least 10 cm of concrete. Do not include rocks unless there is no gravel
available. No forming is necessary and is highly discouraged with the exception of
around cables.
25% REDUCED
CROSS SECTION
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Dead cable
Saddle
Start on the fixed side (no tubing, no erection hooks). Take care to pack the concrete
mixture to ensure no holes form. Repeat for the adjustable side, ensuring no concrete
gets into the tubes and that the tube ends remain exposed.
39
5.6
Plumb bob
Buckets
Water level
Wire cutters
Materials Required
Cement
Sand
Gravel
Tie wire
Plastic tubing
Cable (specifications must be met, see design guide)
Drop forged cable clamps (specifications must be met, see design guide)
Steel rebar (minimum size requirements):
- Spans 40 meters or less**
- Anchor rods, 16 pieces, 25 mm, cut at 1.50 meters
- Inner drum: 8 pieces, 10 mm, cut at 3.40 meters, bent into circle 0.90 meter diameter
- Outer drum: 8 pieces, 10 mm, cut at 5.25 meters, bent into circle 1.50 meter diameter
- Spans greater than 40 meters
- Anchor rods, 20 pieces, 25 mm, cut at 1.50 meters
- Inner drum: 8 pieces, 10 mm, cut at 4.15 meters, bent into circle 1.15 meter diameter
- Outer drum: 8 pieces, 10 mm, cut at 5.90 meters, bent into circle 1.70 meter diameter
* Cable Installation Guides: See Section 5.5, page 38
**Spans 40 meters or less:
When using a drum anchor on spans 40 meters or less, the cable is continuous. The first end of the cable starts at the adjustable side.
Once taken across the river, it is wrapped around the fixed drum anchor one full rotation (360 degrees) and is returned back to the
adjustable anchor side. When using a drum anchor on spans greater than 40 meters but less than the maximum 60 meters, the cable is
cut into two pieces. As such the cable sag setting procedure is dierent for the two types.
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Step 1
Excavation
Excavate a cylindrical pit to a depth and distance from the tower as
specified in the drawings. It is critical to leave the edge closest to the
towers as clean and sharp as possible. The depth of excavation is also
critical to the design.
Step 2
Build Cages
Place the vertical anchor rods as shown in to the diagram below. First tie together the outer
rebar cage with 10 mm rebar specified for the outer drum. (Note: Small drum sizes for
spans less than 40 meters, Large drum sizes for spans greater than 40 meters).
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Step 3
Add Erection Hooks
Tie an erection hook to the anchor that will be adjustable. If using two similar
anchor types (drum or beam), the lower elevation is adjustable. If one drum and
one beam, the beam is the adjustable side. Attach the bent rebar erection hooks
0.50 meters from the top of the outer cage. A winch will attach to the hook while
setting cable sag so ensure the hooks are well secured. When attaching the erection
hooks, consider the location relative to where the hoisting winch will be positioned.
As shown below right, if connecting the drum directly into the approach and towers,
the erection hook will need to be positioned in a vertical position.
Step 4
Place Rebar cages
Place the inner cage inside the excavation pit, embedded to the depth specified
in drawings; leaving the top of the rebar cage approximately 0.50 meters above
ground (if adjustable side, the erection hook must face towards tower). Place the
outer cage around the inner cage, attaching the majority of verfical rebar on the
backside of the drum. Verify both cages are vertical and flush and tie together at
the back of the excavation pit, furthest from the tower. The outer cage diameter
allows the handrail cables to come o the tower and connect to the anchor at a
straight line. The inner drum diameter allows the walkway cables to come o the
saddles and connect to the anchor in a straight line.
Step 5
Lay out Cable
Lay out the cable to either side of the river. Thread 3.5 meters of plastic tubing on
each of the cables on the adjustable side. The non-adjustable side does not need
tubing. For spans less than 40 meters, both loose ends must lie on the adjustable
end.
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Step 6
Pull Walkway Cable around Anchor
Each walkway cable needs to wrap around the inner anchor and the loose end should be placed into
the approach area after 180 degrees turns. Once secured, the cable must come o the walkway saddle
and follow a straight path to the anchor. The cable should
wrap around the drum below ground level, at least 75 cm
from the top of the drum.
Step 7
Dead cable
Clamp Walkway Cables
Tie the walkway cables onto the opposing walkway cable
after wrapping behind the anchor. Hand-tighten the cable
clamps around the live-end of the cable (do not saddle a
dead horse!). Hand tighten the adjustable side. Tighten
non-adjustable side to specified torque with minimum
1-meter long pipe or wrench. If clamps are malleable
rather than drop forged, clamp failure will occur if taken to
an equivalent torque. For spans less than 40 meters, there
are no clamps on the fixed end as the cable is continuous.
Rather, wrap the cable fully around the respective drum
and return to adjustable side.
Saddle
Step 8
Pour the Anchor Excavation
Fill the excavation pit with concrete aggregate, ensuring the
entire rebar cage is covered in at least 10 cm of concrete
to an elevation of approximately 50 cm above the ground
surface. Do not fill with rocks. DO NOT USE FORM-WORK BELOW GROUND. Pour on the fixed side first.
Take care to pack the concrete mixture to ensure no voids form. Repeat for the adjustable side, ensuring
no concrete gets into the tubes and that the tube ends remain exposed. Let both sides cure a minimum 7
days unless concrete curing accelerator is added.
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Step 9
Pull Handrail Cable around Anchor
Each handrail must wrap around the outer anchor (both cages should be cased in concrete) and
the loose end should be placed into approach area. Once secured, the cable must come o either
the walkway or handrail saddle and follow a straight path to the anchor. The cable should wrap
around the drum at ground level, ensuring there is 50 cm depth from the top of the drum.
Step 10
Clamp handrail Cables
Tie the handrail cable onto the opposing handrail cable after wrapping behind the anchor. Handtighten the cable clamps immediately. Torque until the dead end of the cable has a reduced crosssectional area of at least 25%. If clamps are malleable rather than drop forged, clamp failure will
occur if taken to full torque but cross-sectional reduction is critical. See Suspended Volume 1:
Design & Analysis.
Step 11
Tar cables
Apply 5 mm thick roofing tar on all cables that will be covered with earth. This includes
approximately 10 meters for each cable.
Step 12
Fill Tubes with Grout
Mix one five (5) bucket of watery grout. Pour grout into tubes. A funnel is helpful for pouring. See
cable care (Section 5.9) for more details.
Volume 3: Suspended
44
Date: __________________
*This page must be copied and attached to Bridge Completion Record upon completion of bridge.
5.7
The amount of sag required in the cable is dictated by the design engineer. Setting the sag to match the intended percentage of design sag is
critical to the structural integrity of the bridge. The sag is the span (L) multiplied by the designated percent hoisting sag to result in the height
dierence between the low point of the cable and the lower abutment elevation. The design sag is greater than the hoisting sag because once
the cable is set, the self-weight of the bridge in addition to the loading from pedestrians, bicycles and animal carts will slightly stretch the cable.
As such, the final lowest point is the design sag. Hoisting sag is the elevation that the cable is set to during construction prior to any additional
deck or pedestrian load bring applied.
Non-Prestreched Cable
Design sag (bd)
Hoisting sag (bh)
Less than 80 m
5.00%
4.00%
Greater than 80 m
4.55%
3.64%
Calculate the lowest point of the walkway cables (f) relative to the lower elevation abutment. Note: midpoint is not the lowest point. f is the
actual low point with consideration to the parabolic shape of the cable. Find f using either the Hoist Sag Elevation (next page) or the following
equation:
Volume 3: Suspended
46
55
2.20
2.10
2.00
1.91
1.82
1.73
1.64
1.56
1.47
1.39
1.31
1.24
1.16
1.09
1.02
0.96
0.89
0.83
0.77
0.71
0.65
0.60
0.55
0.50
0.45
60
2.40
2.30
2.20
2.11
2.02
1.93
1.84
1.75
1.67
1.58
1.50
1.43
1.35
1.28
1.20
1.13
1.07
1.00
0.94
0.88
0.82
0.76
0.70
0.65
0.60
65
2.60
2.50
2.40
2.31
2.22
2.12
2.03
1.95
1.86
1.78
1.70
1.62
1.54
1.46
1.39
1.32
1.25
1.18
1.11
1.05
0.98
0.92
0.87
0.81
0.75
Span (m)
70 75 80
2.80 3.00 3.20
2.70 2.90 3.10
2.60 2.80 3.00
2.51 2.71 2.91
2.41 2.61 2.81
2.32 2.52 2.72
2.23 2.43 2.63
2.14 2.34 2.54
2.06 2.25 2.45
1.97 2.17 2.36
1.89 2.08 2.28
1.81 2.00 2.19
1.73 1.92 2.11
1.65 1.84 2.03
1.58 1.76 1.95
1.50 1.69 1.88
1.43 1.61 1.80
1.36 1.54 1.73
1.29 1.47 1.65
1.22 1.40 1.58
1.16 1.33 1.51
1.09 1.27 1.44
1.03 1.20 1.38
0.97 1.14 1.31
0.91 1.08 1.25
85
3.20
3.10
3.00
2.91
2.81
2.72
2.63
2.54
2.45
2.36
2.28
2.19
2.11
2.03
1.95
1.88
1.80
1.73
1.65
1.58
1.51
1.44
1.38
1.31
1.25
90
3.27
3.17
3.08
2.98
2.88
2.79
2.70
2.61
2.52
2.43
2.35
2.27
2.18
2.10
2.02
1.94
1.87
1.79
1.72
1.65
1.58
1.51
1.44
1.38
1.31
95
3.45
3.36
3.26
3.16
3.07
2.97
2.88
2.79
2.70
2.61
2.53
2.44
2.36
2.28
2.20
2.12
2.04
1.96
1.89
1.82
1.74
1.67
1.60
1.54
1.47
100
3.64
3.54
3.44
3.34
3.25
3.15
3.06
2.97
2.88
2.79
2.71
2.62
2.54
2.45
2.37
2.29
2.21
2.14
2.06
1.98
1.91
1.84
1.77
1.70
1.63
105
3.82
3.72
3.62
3.52
3.43
3.33
3.24
3.15
3.06
2.97
2.88
2.80
2.71
2.63
2.55
2.47
2.39
2.31
2.23
2.15
2.08
2.01
1.94
1.86
1.80
110
4.00
3.90
3.80
3.71
3.61
3.52
3.42
3.33
3.24
3.15
3.06
2.98
2.89
2.81
2.72
2.64
2.56
2.48
2.40
2.33
2.25
2.18
2.10
2.03
1.96
115
4.18
4.08
3.98
3.89
3.79
3.70
3.60
3.51
3.42
3.33
3.24
3.15
3.07
2.98
2.90
2.82
2.73
2.65
2.58
2.50
2.42
2.35
2.27
2.20
2.13
120
4.36
4.26
4.17
4.07
3.97
3.88
3.78
3.69
3.60
3.51
3.42
3.33
3.25
3.16
3.08
2.99
2.91
2.83
2.75
2.67
2.59
2.52
2.44
2.37
2.29
Volume 3: Suspended
47
Step 1
Cut Measuring Stick
Cut stick #1a exactly to height (f + 1 meter) for walkway
Cut stick #1b to height (f + 1 + 1.10 meters) for handrail
Step 2
Fabricate T-level Stick
Using a 1.5 meter minimum length stick as the horizontal member, attach a second vertical stick
at a perpendicular angle (use a square edge to confirm). Nail two angled supports for added
rigidity and notch out 30 mm guides on either end of the horizontal stick to allow the T-level stick
to slide to the middle of the span without slipping o the cables (see diagram below right for
further details).
Step 3
Zero Abney Level
Lock the knob at zero degrees.
Zero Knob
Volume 3: Suspended
48
Step 4
Stick #2 (1- Meter Stick) at Starting Point
Place the Abney Level on top of the 1-meter stick to the side of the walkway saddle and look
through the viewfinder from the adjustable side of the bridge crossing. (This should be the lower
elevation or from the soil beam anchor if two types of anchors are present).
Step 5
Move Stick #1
The second person walks with the stick #1a (height equal to f + 1 meter) and moves down the
slope, away from the bridge tower until the Abney viewfinder on top of stick #2 sees the top of
stick #1a.
Step 6
Mark Point
Using spray paint or marker stick, mark the stopping point of the person with stick #1a.
Step 7
Move Abney to Marked Point
Remove the stick #1a (the taller) and replace with stick #2 (1-meter) at same location. Place the
Abney Level still locked on zero on top of the 1-meter tall stick.
Step 8
Attach Cable Winch
Connect the winch to the erection hooks and the live cable to be
tightened. This may require wrapping linked chain around the
cable to ensure no slippage.
Important Safety Notice: Ensure that the winch you are using is correctly
rated and in good working condition. Inspection should include an examination
of the chain for wear, twists, excessive dirt, broken links, and proper lubrication.
Hooks should be inspected for deformations, cracks, damage, and properly
operating latches.
DRUM ANCHOR NOTE: See page 52
Volume 3: Suspended
49
Step 9
Tighten Cable
Raise the cable elevation with the winch until the cable is well above the elevation of the Abney
Level (look through viewfinder towards cable in center of span to verify).
Important Safety Notice: Safe hoist operation begins with proper hoist selection. The hoist must be matched
to the application, and hoist capacity is of primary importance. It is critical that the hoist selected has a capacity
that exceeds the weight of the load. Make sure the hoists load chain is long enough to reach the load. Loads should
always be lifted slowly at first to make certain everything is seated and operating properly. They should also be
lifted vertically, avoiding the temptation to side pull a load, which places additional stress on the hoist and risks
uncontrolled load swings. Before giving the signal to lift a load, operators need to be aware of their surroundings,
making sure they have a solid foundation for executing a manual lift and that they and others are clear of the load
before lifting. They also need to communicate their intention to begin lifting to employees in the immediate vicinity of
the lift, and to pay close attention to the task at hand, never leaving a load unattended or suspended. While actively
hoisting the cable, take care to position yourself and others either behind or the side of the hoist. Also, do not allow
the hoist to raise in the air.
Step 10
Hand-Tighten 2 Clamps
Attach two (2) cable clamps to hold the cable and hand-tighten the clamps.
Step 11
Remove Cable Winch
Detach the cable winch and set to the side.
Step 12
Hit Live Cable
Using a large piece of wood, strike the cable just above the clamps. The cable should slip and
lower very slightly with each hit. If the cable does not move at all, loosen the clamps slowly a 1/4
turn until the cable moves when hit. Lower the cable in this manner until the Abney viewfinder
sees the bottom point of the cable from the marked position in Step 6.
Step 13
Mark Cable at Saddle
Using the spray paint, mark the cable at the saddle to confirm its position. Note dierence in cable
shift from marks. If more than , tighten cable and re-do.
Volume 3: Suspended
50
Dead cable
Saddle
Volume 3: Suspended
51
52
5.8
Volume 3: Suspended
53
Dead cable
Saddle
Volume 3: Suspended
54
5.9
Cable Care
Unwrapping Cable
Take care when unwinding the cable from the spool. Kinks in the cable are detrimental to the material
strength and are a point of weakness. Furthermore, take care not to lay the cable in sandy areas.
Sand may get in between the cable strands and cause damage. Use electrical tape to wrap around
the loose ends of the cable to stop unraveling if any cuts in the cable are made.
Volume 3: Suspended
55
Volume 3: Suspended
56
Date: __________________
*This page must be copied and attached to Bridge Completion Record upon completion of bridge
Plumb bob
Buckets
Materials Required
Cement
Tamper
Sand
Broken stone
Gravel
Step 1
Build Approach Walls
Set a plumb line between the edge of the top tier and the front of the anchor excavation.
Dig a 25 cm deep and minimum 40 cm wide trench to lay the first layer of the wall. If using
broken stone, start with the largest stones on the bottom layers. Build the 35 cm walls no
greater than 1.5 meters before backfilling.
Step 2
Backfill Area
Fill the area with available stone, gravel and sand ensuring the stone is packed into
place. Every 25 cm layer of fill must be followed by compaction with a tamper to reduce
settlement.
Step 3
Concrete slab
The final layer of the approach must be a layer of compacted gravel, 10cm
thick. Take care to compact by using either animals or people jumping on the
area. Following compaction, cover the approach with a smooth concrete slab,
5 cm thick.
Step 4
Finishing
At the insertion points of the cable, use small formwork to create an insertion
area or tampers. This formation around the exit point of the cables will help
to avoid the potential for water pooling and cable corrosion as shown on the
lower right picture.
Volume 3: Suspended
58
Volume 3: Suspended
NO NAILER
59
Step 1
Decking Preparation
Cut (span plus 1) crossbeams to 136 cm minimum length and pre-drill for suspender connections.
The hole spacing is based on the number of walkway cables. See Volume 3, Part 2: Suspended
Bridge Construction Drawings. For instance, if the bridge is 30 meters long, 31 crossbeams are
required.
Cut decking panels to 3.0 meters for any span over 60 meters and preferably all spans. If the
bridge is shorter than 60 meter span, 2.0 meter decking panels are allowable. The total number
of decking panels is equal to [span divided by length of each board (either 2.0 or 3.0)] multiplied
by five (5), as there will be five decking panels across, each 15 - 25 cm wide. If nailers are to be
used, an additional (span plus 1) meters of decking panels will be required, cut at 1.0 meters.
Step 2
Suspender Preparation
Cut minimum 8.0 mm diameter iron rod into 1.8 meter long pieces. The total number of
suspenders required is equal to twice (span plus 1). For instance, a 30 meter bridge would require
62 suspenders. They will be bent around the cables using a pipe, as shown to the left.
Step 3
Attach Nailer Panels to Crossbeams (Nailer Recommended)
If using nailer panels, cut (bridge span plus 1) panels to 1.0 meters. Attach the nailer to the
crossbeams with a minimum four (4) screws or 6 each 10cm nails, aligning from the center of each
board. The crossbeam should exceed the length of the nailer by least 36 cm.
Volume 3: Suspended
60
Step 4
Install Crossbeams
The first crossbeam must be firmly attached to the walkway saddles so that the decking does not
slip during installation. This first crossbeam is not attached to the handrail cable and does not
require a full-length suspender. The next two (2) crossbeams are then attached to the walkway
cable by inserting the suspenders through the bottom of the crossbeam and around the walkway
cable. The top of the suspender is wrapped around the handrail cable. See diagram for further
instruction.
Step 5
Cut Deck Panel
Cut one deck panel to allow for deck panel staggering. If using 2.0 meter panels, cut starter
pieces into two (2) 1.0 meter panels. If using 3.0 meter panels, cut into one (1) 1.0 meter panel
and one (1) 2.0 meter panel.
Step 6
Start Decking
Push the second crossbeam 1.0 meters away from the secured first crossbeam. Push the third
crossbeam 1.0 meter further so each are at a 1.0 meter spacing on center. Begin with 3 full length
deck panels and two (2) partial decking panels. Start with a full length panel, add the second one
as a shorter, third or middle panel as full, forth as the second partial panel and the outside fifth
panel as a full.
Place all decking heart down to minimize cupping, shown below left.
CORRECT
Volume 3: Suspended
NOT CORRECT
61
Step 7
Nail Deck Panels
Nail the end of each panel to the first crossbeam, second and third crossbeams as
necessary such that the ends of either end of the panels allow enough room for another
decking panel to butt against it on the crossbeam.
Step 8
Screw Deck Panels
Using 2 each 10cm screws or lag bolts, or 3 each 10cm nails, attach the center of each
decking panel to the crossbeam below. It is necessary to use at least one lag bolt at each
crossbeam to prevent the nails from working loose.
Step 9
Lay Decking
Continue until the bridge is complete, adding only three (3) or four (4) crossbeams and
suspenders at a time.
Volume 3: Suspended
62
Tools Required
Hammers
Wood saw
Wrenches
Hack saw and blades
1/2 pipe (for bending suspenders)
Claw
Materials Required
Deck panels
1 bag cement
The ends of the decking panels end at an elevation above the hump of
the tower crest as shown in the top right picture. There are several design
alternatives to mitigate this potential safety hazard.
To ensure a smooth transition between the decking and the ramp
approach, additional form work was required during tower construction.
Each walkway cable was threaded with tubing, and each cable is aligned
between saddles. An additional layer of concrete was formed over the
tubes to an elevation equal to the total depth of the crossbeam, nailer
(if used) and the decking. This allows for a flush junction, but requires
precision in masonry works. Reference top drawing to the right for details.
At the insertion point where the cable enters the approach, a small formed
lift will hinder the ability for water to pool at the connection. A small
wedge may be formed with finishing concrete.
NB. This is a new technique to B2P ans as such many of the photographs
from early bridges will not show this detail.
Volume 3: Suspended
63
Pliers
Materials Required
Galvanized fencing mesh
U-nails
Step 1
Unroll Fencing
Uncoil the fence onto the ground and stretch the wire out as much as possible. Several
rolls may need to be used depending on the length of the bridge. Rolls may need to
be cut to length once installed.
Step 2
Transport
Carry the extended fencing wire to the bridge.
Step 3
Attach to Decking
Tie the fencing to the decking panels near the walkway cables. U-nails allow for easy
attachment to wood decking.
Step 4
Attach to Handrail Cable
Push the fencing wire over the handrail cables and tie tightly against itself.
Step 5
Secure to Suspenders
Tie at intervals across the bridge, tying to the suspenders whenever possible. If the
fence height exceeds 1.50, some of the excess fencing should wrap over the top cable
or under the decking at the base.
Volume 3: Suspended
64
Decking
Date: __________________
*This page must be copied and attached to Bridge Completion Record upon completion of bridge.
Pedestrian Bridge Construction Quality Control Pg 10