PEYOTE STITCH / LADDER STITCH

Make a dainty, feminine

necklace with a sparkling
crystal stone, seed beads,
and WireLace

Bezels and

bows

Add a beaded bow

to a crystal stone
designed by Jennifer Makely

Bows made a comeback on fashion

runways in 2009. Enjoy this romantic
style with a crystal stone topped by
a dainty beaded bow and attached
to a ruffled strand of WireLace.

2009 Kalmbach Publishing Co. This material may not be reproduced in any form
without permission from the publisher.

Bead&Button Online Project 1

www

Watch a video demonstration

of setting a rivoli in a bezel at
BeadAndButton.com/videos.

materials

stepbystep
Bezel with bail
[1] If desired, coat the back surface of
the rivoli with an even layer of clear nail
polish, and allow it to dry.
[2] On 1 yd. (.9 m) of Fireline or
thread, pick up 52 110 cylinder beads,
and tie them into a ring with a square
knot (Online Basics), leaving a 12-in.
(30 cm) tail. Sew through a few beads,
pulling the knot into a bead.
[3] Picking up one cylinder per stitch,
work two rounds of tubular peyote
stitch (Online Basics).
[4] Picking up one 130 Charlotte per
stitch, work two rounds of peyote. Pull
the thread snug so that the beadwork
begins to curve inward.
[5] Picking up one 150 Charlotte per
stitch, work one round of peyote.
If you have trouble getting your needle
through the 150 Charlottes, you may
want to switch to #15 needles. Secure
the thread with a few half-hitch knots
(Online Basics), but dont trim.
[6] Insert the rivoli, coated side down,
into the beadwork. To complete the bezel,
thread a needle on the 12-in. (30 cm) tail,
and work one round of peyote with one
130 per stitch and one round with one 150
per stitch. End the tail (Online Basics).

[7] To make the bail, attach a needle to

the thread from step 5, and sew through
the beadwork to exit a cylinder in the
middle round of the bezel, at the center
of one side (figure 1, point a). Pick up a
130, a cylinder, and a 130, and sew
through the cylinder in the bezel again
(ab and photo a). Continue through the
three new beads (bc). Picking up a 130,
a cylinder, and a 130 in each stitch (cd),
work in modified ladder stitch (Online
Basics) until you have 16 three-bead
stacks. To form a loop, sew through the
cylinder in the bezel that your thread
exited at the start of this step. Retrace
the thread path several times to secure
the connection, and end the thread.

necklace 15 in. (38 cm)

18 mm CRYSTALLIZED vintage
square rivoli stone (#4650) (Beyond
Beadery, beyondbeadery.com; or
Beadin Path, beadinpath.com)
8 mm vermeil bead
10 g 110 Japanese cylinder beads
3 g 130 Czech Charlottes
3 g 150 Czech Charlottes
2 3 mm vermeil spacers
2 crimp beads
Fireline 4 lb. test or nylon beading
thread, size O
flexible beading wire, .014.018
18 in. (46 cm) WireLace, 6 mm
beading needles, #13 and #15
clear nail polish (optional)
crimping pliers
wire cutters

d
c

a
b

FIGURE 1

Bead&Button Online Project 2

Bow
[1] Add a new 1-yd. (.9 m) thread
(Online Basics) to the bezel, and exit the
next cylinder in the middle round of the
bezel on one side of the bail (figure 2,
point a). Work as in step 7 of Bezel
with bail to make a three-bead ladder
with 17 stacks, and form a loop. Do not
end the thread.
[2] Sew through the three beads of the
first ladder stitch (ab).
[3] Pick up a 150, and sew through the
three beads in the next ladder stitch (bc).
Repeat (cd) along the rest of the loop.
When you reach the end, sew through
the first ladder stitch so you exit the side
that does not have a 150 (figure 3, ab).
[4] Repeat step 3, adding a 150 between
each pair of stacks that doesnt have
one (bc). When youve added 150s
along the entire loop, sew through the
beadwork to exit the first 150 added on
one side (figure 4, ab). Pick up a 150,
and sew through the next 150 along the
edge (bc). Repeat along the entire edge,
then sew through to the other edge of
the loop. Repeat to embellish the other
loop edge. End the thread.
[5] To make a tail for the bow, add a
new 1-yd. (.9 m) thread to the bezel,
and exit a cylinder adjacent to one of
the loops (figure 5, point a). Pick up two
130s, a cylinder, and two 130s, and sew
through an adjacent cylinder (ab). Sew
through the cylinder you exited at the
start of this step and the first four beads
just added (bc). Pick up a 130, a cylinder,
and a 130, and sew through the middle
130, cylinder, and 130 in the previous
stitch (cd). Working as in step 7 of
Bezel with bail, stitch a three-bead
ladder that is 13 stacks long. Do not
form it into a loop. Working as in steps
24, embellish the ladder. Exit a cylinder
about halfway down the ladder, and sew
through a bead in the bezel and through
the cylinder in the ladder again. Repeat
to tack the ladder to the bezel in a few
places. End the thread.
[6] Repeat steps 15 on the other side
of the bail.

d
c

b
a

FIGURE 2

a
FIGURE 4

FIGURE 3

c
b
a

FIGURE 5

EDITORS NOTE: I broke several #15 needles while making this

project. Theyre very delicate, so be gentle with them. If youre having
a hard time getting the needle through a tight spot, grasp it with a pair
of chainnose pliers and gently pull it through. Julia

Bead&Button Online Project 3

Necklace
[1] Cut a 14-in. (36 cm) piece of beading wire and an 18-in. (46 cm) piece of
WireLace. With an end of each aligned,
thread the end 1 in. (2.5 cm) of the
beading wire into the end 1 in. (2.5 cm)
of WireLace, so the beading wire is
inside the tube of WireLace. String a
crimp bead over the beading wire and
WireLace (photo b). Crimp the crimp
bead (Online Basics). Trim the end of
the WireLace and beading wire if needed.
[2] Manipulate the first 9 in. (23 cm)
of WireLace by pinching and pulling
the WireLace as desired (photo c).
[3] String 1015 130s on the beading
wire, then go through the WireLace
(photo d). Repeat several times until
you reach the center of the necklace.
[4] String the bail of the pendant over
the beading wire and the WireLace.
[5] String the other side of the necklace
as in steps 2 and 3, string a crimp bead
on the beading wire and WireLace as in
step 1, and crimp.

Clasp
[1] On 1 yd. (.9 m) of thread, pick up
six 130s, and sew through all six beads
again to form a ring. Before snugging up
the ring, slip the ring over the crimp
bead on one end of the necklace. Sew
through the next two 130s, and pull the
beads snug so they fit tightly around
the beading wire and WireLace below
the crimp bead (photo e).
[2] Picking up one 130 per stitch,
work in tubular peyote stitch (photo f)
for about six to eight rounds to cover
the crimp bead. Sew through the beads
in the final round of peyote to taper
the end.
[3] Pick up a cylinder and a 130, and
sew through the next two 130s in the
end round of peyote (photo g). Pick up
a 150 and a cylinder, and sew down
through the first cylinder, and up
through the first 130 picked up in this
step (photo h).
[4] Pick up a 130 and a 150, and sew
down through the next 150, and up
through the next cylinder. Pick up a
cylinder and a 130, and sew down
through the next 130, and up through
the following 150. Pick up a 150 and
a cylinder, and sew down through

Bead&Button Online Project 4

the next cylinder, and up through the

following 130.
[5] To make the beadwork twist,
continue working in odd-count tubular
herringbone as in step 4, but in each
stitch sew up through two beads in a
stack instead of one (photo i). Keeping
the tension snug, continue until the
twisted tubular portion reaches about
1 in. (3.8 cm).
[6] Repeat steps 15 at the other end
of the necklace.
[7] To add the clasp bead, pick up a
3 mm vermeil spacer, the 8 mm vermeil
bead, and three cylinders. Skip the cylinders, and sew back through the 8 mm,
the 3 mm, and the top few cylinders or
130s in the herringbone tube (photo j).
Sew back up through the adjacent beads
in the next stack. Retrace the thread
path a few times, then end the thread.
[8] To make the clasp loop on the other
end, pick up a 3 mm and enough 130s
to make a loop around the 8 mm
(approximately 26). Sew back through
the 3 mm and a few beads in the
herringbone tube. Retrace the thread
path through the loop a few times,
and end the thread. w

Jennifer
Makely, of
Evanston, Ill., in
the U.S., has been
beading for about
seven years. She loves working with
vintage crystals and precious-metalplated seed beads. When shes not
beading, Jennifer enjoys reading,
biking, running, meditating, and
spending time with her family.
Contact Jennifer at jennifermakely@
out-ofthe-blue.com, or visit her
Web site, out-ofthe-blue.com.

CHANGE IT UP
To make this variation with a 30 x 22 mm
oval stone, adapt the instructions
as follows:
Start the bezel with 64 cylinders.
Instead of making a ladder stitch bail,
stitch 18 rows of cylinders in odd-count
peyote (Online Basics), making a threebead-wide strip, and form it into a loop.
Instead of making a ladder stitch bow
with tails, work in modified increasing and
decreasing square stitch (Online Basics)
to make a strip that is 19 rows long
(figure 6), then sew through the first
cylinder to make a loop. Stitch another
18 rows off of the original cylinder to make
a second loop. Embellish the bow as in
steps 3 and 4 of Bow. Attach the bow
to a cylinder at the top of the stone, adding a 6 mm pearl to the front of the bow.

FIGURE 6

Bead&Button Online Project 5

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April 2008 Issue 84

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Watch these lifelike flow
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