Como hacer una SILLA DE

MADERA PLEGABLE paso a paso

27 abril, 2010 admin Como hacer

Como hacer una SILLA DE

MADERA PLEGABLE paso a
paso
Como hacer una SILLA DE MADERA PLEGABLE paso a paso,
introduccion:
Ilustramos aqu una novedosa silla plegadiza que se aplana
completamente cuando no se necesita usarla, y que es igualmente
adecuada para dentro de la casa como para la terraza o el jardn.
Su construccin es sencilla pero muy resistente, tiene cmodo
respaldo, y su reducido pesa permite llevarla y traerla sin esfuerzo
alguno.
Como hacer una SILLA DE MADERA PLEGABLE paso a paso,
materiales:
Como podr verse por los planos y la ilustracin que
acompaamos, esta prctica silla est hecha enteramente de
madera, a excepcin, claro est, de unos pocos clavos y remaches.
Digamos de paso que una silla as costara $.6 7 en una
mueblera, pero construida en casa, vendra a costar apenas $ 1,
ms o menos. Pintada al laqu blanco, es muy conveniente
tambin para el cuarto de bao.

Como hacer una SILLA DE MADERA PLEGABLE paso a paso

Como hacer una SILLA DE MADERA PLEGABLE paso a paso, vistas:

La vista lateral de la Fig. 1 da una clara idea de su forma y la
manera de armada. La Fig. 2 muestra el bastidor trasero, siendo
las patas de madera de pino, de 1 1/4 de ancho por 3/4 de
espesor, y los listones transversales, de 1 1/4 de ancho por 1/2 o
3/8 de espesor. Por supuesto que puede emplearse alguna madera
dura coma abedul, haya, fresno o roble; pero si estas resultan
demasiado caras, puede emplearse pino tea o sprus. Si. se emplea
madera blanda y liviana, conviene naturalmente preparar las
diversas piezas, de anchura y espesor un poca mayores que las
anteriores indicadas, para;, que la silla resulte bien resistente.

Como hacer una SILLA DE MADERA PLEGABLE paso a paso

Como hacer una SILLA DE MADERA PLEGABLE paso a paso, las

maderas:
Para construir esta silla, uno de nuestros lectores, autor de los
planos e instrucciones que damos aqu, fue a un corraln de
maderas y obtuvo un pedazo de tabla para piso, de 5 pies de largo
por 5 3/4 de ancho y 7 1/8 de espesor, y una tabla de 6 pies de
largo por 3 1/2 de ancho por 1/2 de espesor. Cort los largueros
desde los bordes cepillados de la tabla, a todo el largo de la
misma, cepill los bodes serruchados, y finalmente cort las patas
de las medidas que indica el plano. Tuvo tambin la precaucin de
ver que toda la madera estaba libre de nudos, lo cual naturalmente
le simplific mucho el trabajo.
Fig.- Como hacer una SILLA DE MADERA PLEGABLE paso a paso:

Como hacer una SILLA DE MADERA PLEGABLE paso a paso

Si se sigue este mismo procedimiento, no hay que olvidarse que se

est trabajando con material de 7/8 de espesor en vez de 3/4
como indican los grabados. Pero, aparte de esto, las instrucciones
son las mismas.
Como hacer una SILLA DE MADERA PLEGABLE paso a paso,
bastidor trasero:
Por lo tanto, constryase el bastidor trasero coma indica el detalle
de la Fig. 2. Fjese con clavos de 1 1/2 (ya sea de cabeza redonda
o plana. Pero preferiblemente de cobre) el soporte de madera
terciada, y luego los listones transversales segn indica el plano, y
perfrense los agujeros para los remaches. Si no se quiere emplear
remaches, puede utilizarse en su lugar tornillos de cabeza redonda
de 1 1/2 por 10, con arandelas y tuercas.
Como hacer una SILLA DE MADERA PLEGABLE paso a paso,
asiento:
Asiento y bastidor delantero Ahora puede construirse el asiento;
las piezas laterales miden 12 1/2 de largo par 1 1/2 de ancho.

Clvense los listones transversales en la posicin indicada,

omitiendo el ltimo listn de atrs, el cual se atornilla en su lugar
despus que los costados del asiento han sido asegurados al
bastidor delantero.

Como hacer una SILLA DE MADERA PLEGABLE paso a paso

Este bastidor delantero en la suposicin (Haz clik en la

descarga para obtener el articulo completo con instrucciones y
planos)
Deja tu comentario sobre: Como hacer una SILLA DE MADERA
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Overview, tools and materials

Matching love seat

Assemble the love seat exactly like the chair, using the Cutting list in the
Additional Information below for the parts.

This chair and love seat combo is just perfect for outdoor lounging. The seat has a nice
curved recess to conform to your body, and wide arms to hold your favorite snack and
drink. And because the seat doesn't slope steeply downward like on a traditional
Adirondack chair, even your grandfather will be able to help himself out without a boost.
You won't need an arsenal of power tools to build this furniture. In fact, you'll only need a
circular saw, a drill and simple hand tools. I've designed this project for simplicity as well:
With a bit of patience, even a novice can do a great job.
The wood is pressure-treated pine, chosen for its low cost, high strength and longevity. And
don't worry about the drab green look of treated wood. You can brush on an exterior oil or
latex stain and give it a beautiful warm glow that makes it look more like mahogany or teak
than treated pine.
Select straight, knot-free, pressure-treated pine
Most outdoor wood furniture is made from cedar or expensive teak, but regular treated
boards from your home center or lumberyard are perfect for this project. The trick is to
select boards that are as straight and free of knots as you can find. A few tight knots are
OK, and if you spot a board that looks great except for a huge loose knot, just cut it out and
use the knot-free sections. It's a good idea to buy a couple of extra boards, just in case you
end up cutting out more sections than youd planned. Also avoid boards that are still wet
from the treatment process (they'll feel cool and damp) because they might warp or crack as
they dry.

Don't assume that the treated boards are dimensionally consistent. When I got my lumber
home, the boards varied by as much as 3/16 in. in width. These variations can screw up the
assembly process, especially for the back slats, which require spacers to get an exact back
width. Once you get the boards home and begin to cut the pieces, use the rip guide on your
circular saw (or borrow a neighbor's table saw) to trim them to the exact widths in the
Cutting List.
Figure A: Chair and love seat assembly

Note: You can download Figure A and enlarge it in the additional Information
below.

Chair and love seat assembly

Back to Top 1

Step 1: Assemble the main frame

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.

6.

Photo 1: Cut the leg notches

Clamp the two front legs together, measure for the 3/4-in. deep notch and
make repeated cuts with your circular saw set to 3/4-in. depth of cut. Chisel the
pieces between the cuts and then file smooth.

Cut the notches in the front legs to accept the front stringer as shown in Photo 1. As you
chisel out the waste wood in the notch, shave the bottom carefully and fine-tune it with a
rasp to keep the notch from getting too deep. As you assemble the basic frame (Photos 2 6), make sure your work surface is flat so each piece aligns with the adjoining pieces at the
correct angle. Be sure to use a dab of construction adhesive in every joint and predrill a
pilot and countersink hole for each screw. You can buy a bit at your local hardware store
that drills a pilot and countersink in one operation for the No. 6 screws.
Back to Top 1

Step 2: Assemble the back

1.
2.

Photo 7: Cut the back slats

Mark a diagonal line on H3, then clamp the board to your sawhorses and cut
along the line to make a pair of outer back slats.

To achieve the gentle taper of the back assembly, you'll need to taper the outer seat slat and
cut it as shown in Photo 7. First, place a mark 1-1/2 in. from the edge on opposite ends as
shown. Connect the marks with a line and then saw right down the middle of the line with
your circular saw. Sand or plane the cut edge to smooth away any saw marks. Before you
assemble the back of the chair or love seat, cut 1/4-in. thick spacers from scrap wood. The
spacers (Photo 8) will ensure that the back assembly is the right width. Lay each slat on the
floor and make sure the best-looking side of each board is facing down. As you screw the
three back braces to the back slats, use a framing square to make sure they're perpendicular.
You'll find it easier to get the proper alignment if you match the center point of each brace
with the center line drawn down the middle back slat. Drill pilot holes and drive 1-1/4 in.
deck screws through the braces into the slats as shown in Figure A and Photo 8.
Back to Top 1

Step 3: Install the back

Photo 9: Screw the back to the frame

Align the bottom of the back assembly with the seat braces and the tops of the
rear legs. Screw the legs to the back brace and screw the horizontal arm
supports to the center back brace.

Once you've assembled the back, it's time to fasten it to the chair frame. Flip the frame
assembly upside down and insert the back assembly into it (Photo 9). This can be a bit
challenging, so make it easier by laying two nonskid rugs or mats on the floor under the
chair frame and the top of the back assembly. These will help keep everything in place. As
you align these assemblies, it's critical to get the back of the seat braces flush with the outer
back slats (H3) and then screw through the rear legs into the bottom back brace (J) as
shown in Photo 9 and Figure A. Next, glue and screw the horizontal arm supports (E) into
the center back brace (K) and then into the side of the outer back slat as well.
Back to Top 1

Step 4: Add the seat and arms and then apply a

finish
1.
2.
3.

Photo 10: Screw the seat slats to the braces

Space the seat slats (M), evenly starting at the back. Drill one pilot hole on
each end of the slats and screw them to the seat brace. Screw the front seat
slat to the seat brace as well as the front stretcher (B).

With the completion of this phase, you'll start to see a chair emerging. Flip the chair onto its
legs and cut and predrill the seat slats. Glue and screw them to the seat braces with 1-5/8 in.
deck screws (Photo 10). Dont overdrive the screwsthe heads should be just flush with
the seat slats. The last step of the assembly is to fasten the arms to the arm supports and the
legs as shown in Photos 11 and 12. The notches you cut near the back of the arms hold the
back assembly firmly in place and reduce the stress on the screws at other joints. These
compound notches slice through the arm at an angle. Cut the depth carefully with a
handsaw and then chisel out the notch.
Once the chair is assembled, ease all the edges with 100-grit sandpaper, paying particular
attention to the seat and arms. If the wood feels damp or cold to the touch, you may need to
let the chair dry in a shaded area for a few days before you sand or stain it.
We used an Olympic oil-based cedar natural tone stain that lets the grain show through.
Several options are available, including custom semitransparent stains that a paint supplier
can mix for you. A quart will easily do a pair of chairs or a chair and love seat. This finish
will last at least several years and can be cleaned and recoated as it shows signs of wear.
Back to Top 1

Step 5: Add a personal touch

Photo 13: Mark and trim the back

Create a round back by measuring down 15 in. from the top and draw a 14-in.
radius with a homemade compass.

You can build our step-back version of the chair and love seat or experiment with other
shapes to suit your sense of style. Feel free to try the gable or round back shown below or
draw a different shape on paper, tape it to the chair and step back to see how you like it.

Step 1: Assemble the main frame

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Photo 2: Screw the stretcher to the legs

Spread a light bead of construction adhesive into each notch and align the front
stretcher (B) with the edge of the legs. Drill and screw the stretcher to the legs.

Cut the notches in the front legs to accept the front stringer as shown in Photo 1. As you
chisel out the waste wood in the notch, shave the bottom carefully and fine-tune it with a
rasp to keep the notch from getting too deep. As you assemble the basic frame (Photos 2 6), make sure your work surface is flat so each piece aligns with the adjoining pieces at the
correct angle. Be sure to use a dab of construction adhesive in every joint and predrill a
pilot and countersink hole for each screw. You can buy a bit at your local hardware store
that drills a pilot and countersink in one operation for the No. 6 screws.
Back to Top 1

Step 2: Assemble the back

1.
2.

Photo 7: Cut the back slats

Mark a diagonal line on H3, then clamp the board to your sawhorses and cut
along the line to make a pair of outer back slats.

To achieve the gentle taper of the back assembly, you'll need to taper the outer seat slat and
cut it as shown in Photo 7. First, place a mark 1-1/2 in. from the edge on opposite ends as
shown. Connect the marks with a line and then saw right down the middle of the line with
your circular saw. Sand or plane the cut edge to smooth away any saw marks. Before you
assemble the back of the chair or love seat, cut 1/4-in. thick spacers from scrap wood. The
spacers (Photo 8) will ensure that the back assembly is the right width. Lay each slat on the
floor and make sure the best-looking side of each board is facing down. As you screw the
three back braces to the back slats, use a framing square to make sure they're perpendicular.
You'll find it easier to get the proper alignment if you match the center point of each brace
with the center line drawn down the middle back slat. Drill pilot holes and drive 1-1/4 in.
deck screws through the braces into the slats as shown in Figure A and Photo 8.
Back to Top 1

Step 3: Install the back

Photo 9: Screw the back to the frame

Align the bottom of the back assembly with the seat braces and the tops of the
rear legs. Screw the legs to the back brace and screw the horizontal arm
supports to the center back brace.

Once you've assembled the back, it's time to fasten it to the chair frame. Flip the frame
assembly upside down and insert the back assembly into it (Photo 9). This can be a bit
challenging, so make it easier by laying two nonskid rugs or mats on the floor under the
chair frame and the top of the back assembly. These will help keep everything in place. As
you align these assemblies, it's critical to get the back of the seat braces flush with the outer
back slats (H3) and then screw through the rear legs into the bottom back brace (J) as
shown in Photo 9 and Figure A. Next, glue and screw the horizontal arm supports (E) into
the center back brace (K) and then into the side of the outer back slat as well.
Back to Top 1

Step 4: Add the seat and arms and then apply a

finish
1.
2.
3.

Photo 10: Screw the seat slats to the braces

Space the seat slats (M), evenly starting at the back. Drill one pilot hole on
each end of the slats and screw them to the seat brace. Screw the front seat
slat to the seat brace as well as the front stretcher (B).

With the completion of this phase, you'll start to see a chair emerging. Flip the chair onto its
legs and cut and predrill the seat slats. Glue and screw them to the seat braces with 1-5/8 in.
deck screws (Photo 10). Dont overdrive the screwsthe heads should be just flush with
the seat slats. The last step of the assembly is to fasten the arms to the arm supports and the
legs as shown in Photos 11 and 12. The notches you cut near the back of the arms hold the
back assembly firmly in place and reduce the stress on the screws at other joints. These
compound notches slice through the arm at an angle. Cut the depth carefully with a
handsaw and then chisel out the notch.
Once the chair is assembled, ease all the edges with 100-grit sandpaper, paying particular
attention to the seat and arms. If the wood feels damp or cold to the touch, you may need to
let the chair dry in a shaded area for a few days before you sand or stain it.
We used an Olympic oil-based cedar natural tone stain that lets the grain show through.
Several options are available, including custom semitransparent stains that a paint supplier
can mix for you. A quart will easily do a pair of chairs or a chair and love seat. This finish
will last at least several years and can be cleaned and recoated as it shows signs of wear.
Back to Top 1

Step 5: Add a personal touch

Photo 13: Mark and trim the back

Create a round back by measuring down 15 in. from the top and draw a 14-in.
radius with a homemade compass.

You can build our step-back version of the chair and love seat or experiment with other
shapes to suit your sense of style. Feel free to try the gable or round back shown below or
draw a different shape on paper, tape it to the chair and step back to see how you like it.

Step 1: Assemble the main frame

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Photo 3: Cut out the arms

Mark the angle on the backside of each arm and cut the arms (C) and arm
supports (D) with your circular saw.

Cut the notches in the front legs to accept the front stringer as shown in Photo 1. As you
chisel out the waste wood in the notch, shave the bottom carefully and fine-tune it with a
rasp to keep the notch from getting too deep. As you assemble the basic frame (Photos 2 6), make sure your work surface is flat so each piece aligns with the adjoining pieces at the
correct angle. Be sure to use a dab of construction adhesive in every joint and predrill a
pilot and countersink hole for each screw. You can buy a bit at your local hardware store
that drills a pilot and countersink in one operation for the No. 6 screws.
Back to Top 1

Step 2: Assemble the back

1.
2.

Photo 7: Cut the back slats

Mark a diagonal line on H3, then clamp the board to your sawhorses and cut
along the line to make a pair of outer back slats.

To achieve the gentle taper of the back assembly, you'll need to taper the outer seat slat and
cut it as shown in Photo 7. First, place a mark 1-1/2 in. from the edge on opposite ends as
shown. Connect the marks with a line and then saw right down the middle of the line with
your circular saw. Sand or plane the cut edge to smooth away any saw marks. Before you
assemble the back of the chair or love seat, cut 1/4-in. thick spacers from scrap wood. The
spacers (Photo 8) will ensure that the back assembly is the right width. Lay each slat on the
floor and make sure the best-looking side of each board is facing down. As you screw the
three back braces to the back slats, use a framing square to make sure they're perpendicular.
You'll find it easier to get the proper alignment if you match the center point of each brace
with the center line drawn down the middle back slat. Drill pilot holes and drive 1-1/4 in.
deck screws through the braces into the slats as shown in Figure A and Photo 8.
Back to Top 1

Step 3: Install the back

Photo 9: Screw the back to the frame

Align the bottom of the back assembly with the seat braces and the tops of the
rear legs. Screw the legs to the back brace and screw the horizontal arm
supports to the center back brace.

Once you've assembled the back, it's time to fasten it to the chair frame. Flip the frame
assembly upside down and insert the back assembly into it (Photo 9). This can be a bit
challenging, so make it easier by laying two nonskid rugs or mats on the floor under the
chair frame and the top of the back assembly. These will help keep everything in place. As
you align these assemblies, it's critical to get the back of the seat braces flush with the outer
back slats (H3) and then screw through the rear legs into the bottom back brace (J) as
shown in Photo 9 and Figure A. Next, glue and screw the horizontal arm supports (E) into
the center back brace (K) and then into the side of the outer back slat as well.
Back to Top 1

Step 4: Add the seat and arms and then apply a

finish
1.
2.
3.

Photo 10: Screw the seat slats to the braces

Space the seat slats (M), evenly starting at the back. Drill one pilot hole on
each end of the slats and screw them to the seat brace. Screw the front seat
slat to the seat brace as well as the front stretcher (B).

With the completion of this phase, you'll start to see a chair emerging. Flip the chair onto its
legs and cut and predrill the seat slats. Glue and screw them to the seat braces with 1-5/8 in.
deck screws (Photo 10). Dont overdrive the screwsthe heads should be just flush with
the seat slats. The last step of the assembly is to fasten the arms to the arm supports and the
legs as shown in Photos 11 and 12. The notches you cut near the back of the arms hold the
back assembly firmly in place and reduce the stress on the screws at other joints. These
compound notches slice through the arm at an angle. Cut the depth carefully with a
handsaw and then chisel out the notch.
Once the chair is assembled, ease all the edges with 100-grit sandpaper, paying particular
attention to the seat and arms. If the wood feels damp or cold to the touch, you may need to
let the chair dry in a shaded area for a few days before you sand or stain it.
We used an Olympic oil-based cedar natural tone stain that lets the grain show through.
Several options are available, including custom semitransparent stains that a paint supplier
can mix for you. A quart will easily do a pair of chairs or a chair and love seat. This finish
will last at least several years and can be cleaned and recoated as it shows signs of wear.
Back to Top 1

Step 5: Add a personal touch

Photo 13: Mark and trim the back

Create a round back by measuring down 15 in. from the top and draw a 14-in.
radius with a homemade compass.

You can build our step-back version of the chair and love seat or experiment with other
shapes to suit your sense of style. Feel free to try the gable or round back shown below or
draw a different shape on paper, tape it to the chair and step back to see how you like it.

Step 1: Assemble the main frame

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Photo 4: Attach the arm supports

Align the arm supports with the top and front edges of the legs, then drill and
screw each front leg to the arm support with two 1-5/8 in. deck screws.

Cut the notches in the front legs to accept the front stringer as shown in Photo 1. As you
chisel out the waste wood in the notch, shave the bottom carefully and fine-tune it with a
rasp to keep the notch from getting too deep. As you assemble the basic frame (Photos 2 6), make sure your work surface is flat so each piece aligns with the adjoining pieces at the
correct angle. Be sure to use a dab of construction adhesive in every joint and predrill a
pilot and countersink hole for each screw. You can buy a bit at your local hardware store
that drills a pilot and countersink in one operation for the No. 6 screws.
Back to Top 1

Step 2: Assemble the back

1.
2.

Photo 7: Cut the back slats

Mark a diagonal line on H3, then clamp the board to your sawhorses and cut
along the line to make a pair of outer back slats.

To achieve the gentle taper of the back assembly, you'll need to taper the outer seat slat and
cut it as shown in Photo 7. First, place a mark 1-1/2 in. from the edge on opposite ends as
shown. Connect the marks with a line and then saw right down the middle of the line with
your circular saw. Sand or plane the cut edge to smooth away any saw marks. Before you
assemble the back of the chair or love seat, cut 1/4-in. thick spacers from scrap wood. The
spacers (Photo 8) will ensure that the back assembly is the right width. Lay each slat on the
floor and make sure the best-looking side of each board is facing down. As you screw the
three back braces to the back slats, use a framing square to make sure they're perpendicular.
You'll find it easier to get the proper alignment if you match the center point of each brace
with the center line drawn down the middle back slat. Drill pilot holes and drive 1-1/4 in.
deck screws through the braces into the slats as shown in Figure A and Photo 8.
Back to Top 1

Step 3: Install the back

Photo 9: Screw the back to the frame

Align the bottom of the back assembly with the seat braces and the tops of the
rear legs. Screw the legs to the back brace and screw the horizontal arm
supports to the center back brace.

Once you've assembled the back, it's time to fasten it to the chair frame. Flip the frame
assembly upside down and insert the back assembly into it (Photo 9). This can be a bit
challenging, so make it easier by laying two nonskid rugs or mats on the floor under the
chair frame and the top of the back assembly. These will help keep everything in place. As
you align these assemblies, it's critical to get the back of the seat braces flush with the outer
back slats (H3) and then screw through the rear legs into the bottom back brace (J) as
shown in Photo 9 and Figure A. Next, glue and screw the horizontal arm supports (E) into
the center back brace (K) and then into the side of the outer back slat as well.
Back to Top 1

Step 4: Add the seat and arms and then apply a

finish
1.
2.
3.

Photo 10: Screw the seat slats to the braces

Space the seat slats (M), evenly starting at the back. Drill one pilot hole on
each end of the slats and screw them to the seat brace. Screw the front seat
slat to the seat brace as well as the front stretcher (B).

With the completion of this phase, you'll start to see a chair emerging. Flip the chair onto its
legs and cut and predrill the seat slats. Glue and screw them to the seat braces with 1-5/8 in.
deck screws (Photo 10). Dont overdrive the screwsthe heads should be just flush with
the seat slats. The last step of the assembly is to fasten the arms to the arm supports and the
legs as shown in Photos 11 and 12. The notches you cut near the back of the arms hold the
back assembly firmly in place and reduce the stress on the screws at other joints. These
compound notches slice through the arm at an angle. Cut the depth carefully with a
handsaw and then chisel out the notch.
Once the chair is assembled, ease all the edges with 100-grit sandpaper, paying particular
attention to the seat and arms. If the wood feels damp or cold to the touch, you may need to
let the chair dry in a shaded area for a few days before you sand or stain it.
We used an Olympic oil-based cedar natural tone stain that lets the grain show through.
Several options are available, including custom semitransparent stains that a paint supplier
can mix for you. A quart will easily do a pair of chairs or a chair and love seat. This finish
will last at least several years and can be cleaned and recoated as it shows signs of wear.
Back to Top 1

Step 5: Add a personal touch

Photo 13: Mark and trim the back

Create a round back by measuring down 15 in. from the top and draw a 14-in.
radius with a homemade compass.

You can build our step-back version of the chair and love seat or experiment with other
shapes to suit your sense of style. Feel free to try the gable or round back shown below or
draw a different shape on paper, tape it to the chair and step back to see how you like it.

Step 1: Assemble the main frame

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Photo 5: Attach the rear legs

Fasten the horizontal arm supports (E) at 90 degrees to the front legs. Then
glue, drill and screw the rear legs to the arm supports, making sure the arm
supports are parallel to the floor.

Cut the notches in the front legs to accept the front stringer as shown in Photo 1. As you
chisel out the waste wood in the notch, shave the bottom carefully and fine-tune it with a
rasp to keep the notch from getting too deep. As you assemble the basic frame (Photos 2 6), make sure your work surface is flat so each piece aligns with the adjoining pieces at the
correct angle. Be sure to use a dab of construction adhesive in every joint and predrill a
pilot and countersink hole for each screw. You can buy a bit at your local hardware store
that drills a pilot and countersink in one operation for the No. 6 screws.
Back to Top 1

Step 2: Assemble the back

1.
2.

Photo 7: Cut the back slats

Mark a diagonal line on H3, then clamp the board to your sawhorses and cut
along the line to make a pair of outer back slats.

To achieve the gentle taper of the back assembly, you'll need to taper the outer seat slat and
cut it as shown in Photo 7. First, place a mark 1-1/2 in. from the edge on opposite ends as
shown. Connect the marks with a line and then saw right down the middle of the line with
your circular saw. Sand or plane the cut edge to smooth away any saw marks. Before you
assemble the back of the chair or love seat, cut 1/4-in. thick spacers from scrap wood. The
spacers (Photo 8) will ensure that the back assembly is the right width. Lay each slat on the
floor and make sure the best-looking side of each board is facing down. As you screw the
three back braces to the back slats, use a framing square to make sure they're perpendicular.
You'll find it easier to get the proper alignment if you match the center point of each brace
with the center line drawn down the middle back slat. Drill pilot holes and drive 1-1/4 in.
deck screws through the braces into the slats as shown in Figure A and Photo 8.
Back to Top 1

Step 3: Install the back

Photo 9: Screw the back to the frame

Align the bottom of the back assembly with the seat braces and the tops of the
rear legs. Screw the legs to the back brace and screw the horizontal arm
supports to the center back brace.

Once you've assembled the back, it's time to fasten it to the chair frame. Flip the frame
assembly upside down and insert the back assembly into it (Photo 9). This can be a bit
challenging, so make it easier by laying two nonskid rugs or mats on the floor under the
chair frame and the top of the back assembly. These will help keep everything in place. As
you align these assemblies, it's critical to get the back of the seat braces flush with the outer
back slats (H3) and then screw through the rear legs into the bottom back brace (J) as
shown in Photo 9 and Figure A. Next, glue and screw the horizontal arm supports (E) into
the center back brace (K) and then into the side of the outer back slat as well.
Back to Top 1

Step 4: Add the seat and arms and then apply a

finish
1.
2.
3.

Photo 10: Screw the seat slats to the braces

Space the seat slats (M), evenly starting at the back. Drill one pilot hole on
each end of the slats and screw them to the seat brace. Screw the front seat
slat to the seat brace as well as the front stretcher (B).

With the completion of this phase, you'll start to see a chair emerging. Flip the chair onto its
legs and cut and predrill the seat slats. Glue and screw them to the seat braces with 1-5/8 in.
deck screws (Photo 10). Dont overdrive the screwsthe heads should be just flush with
the seat slats. The last step of the assembly is to fasten the arms to the arm supports and the
legs as shown in Photos 11 and 12. The notches you cut near the back of the arms hold the
back assembly firmly in place and reduce the stress on the screws at other joints. These
compound notches slice through the arm at an angle. Cut the depth carefully with a
handsaw and then chisel out the notch.
Once the chair is assembled, ease all the edges with 100-grit sandpaper, paying particular
attention to the seat and arms. If the wood feels damp or cold to the touch, you may need to
let the chair dry in a shaded area for a few days before you sand or stain it.
We used an Olympic oil-based cedar natural tone stain that lets the grain show through.
Several options are available, including custom semitransparent stains that a paint supplier
can mix for you. A quart will easily do a pair of chairs or a chair and love seat. This finish
will last at least several years and can be cleaned and recoated as it shows signs of wear.
Back to Top 1

Step 5: Add a personal touch

Photo 13: Mark and trim the back

Create a round back by measuring down 15 in. from the top and draw a 14-in.
radius with a homemade compass.

You can build our step-back version of the chair and love seat or experiment with other
shapes to suit your sense of style. Feel free to try the gable or round back shown below or
draw a different shape on paper, tape it to the chair and step back to see how you like it.

Step 1: Assemble the main frame

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.

Photo 6: Cut and mount the seat supports

Cut the seat supports (G) from 1x6 boards. Align the square front edge of the
seat brace with the back of the front stretcher (C) and glue and screw them to
the front and back legs.

Cut the notches in the front legs to accept the front stringer as shown in Photo 1. As you
chisel out the waste wood in the notch, shave the bottom carefully and fine-tune it with a
rasp to keep the notch from getting too deep. As you assemble the basic frame (Photos 2 6), make sure your work surface is flat so each piece aligns with the adjoining pieces at the
correct angle. Be sure to use a dab of construction adhesive in every joint and predrill a
pilot and countersink hole for each screw. You can buy a bit at your local hardware store
that drills a pilot and countersink in one operation for the No. 6 screws.
Back to Top 1

Step 2: Assemble the back

1.
2.

Photo 7: Cut the back slats

Mark a diagonal line on H3, then clamp the board to your sawhorses and cut
along the line to make a pair of outer back slats.

To achieve the gentle taper of the back assembly, you'll need to taper the outer seat slat and
cut it as shown in Photo 7. First, place a mark 1-1/2 in. from the edge on opposite ends as
shown. Connect the marks with a line and then saw right down the middle of the line with
your circular saw. Sand or plane the cut edge to smooth away any saw marks. Before you
assemble the back of the chair or love seat, cut 1/4-in. thick spacers from scrap wood. The
spacers (Photo 8) will ensure that the back assembly is the right width. Lay each slat on the
floor and make sure the best-looking side of each board is facing down. As you screw the
three back braces to the back slats, use a framing square to make sure they're perpendicular.
You'll find it easier to get the proper alignment if you match the center point of each brace
with the center line drawn down the middle back slat. Drill pilot holes and drive 1-1/4 in.
deck screws through the braces into the slats as shown in Figure A and Photo 8.
Back to Top 1

Step 3: Install the back

Photo 9: Screw the back to the frame

Align the bottom of the back assembly with the seat braces and the tops of the
rear legs. Screw the legs to the back brace and screw the horizontal arm
supports to the center back brace.

Once you've assembled the back, it's time to fasten it to the chair frame. Flip the frame
assembly upside down and insert the back assembly into it (Photo 9). This can be a bit
challenging, so make it easier by laying two nonskid rugs or mats on the floor under the
chair frame and the top of the back assembly. These will help keep everything in place. As
you align these assemblies, it's critical to get the back of the seat braces flush with the outer
back slats (H3) and then screw through the rear legs into the bottom back brace (J) as
shown in Photo 9 and Figure A. Next, glue and screw the horizontal arm supports (E) into
the center back brace (K) and then into the side of the outer back slat as well.
Back to Top 1

Step 4: Add the seat and arms and then apply a

finish
1.
2.
3.

Photo 10: Screw the seat slats to the braces

Space the seat slats (M), evenly starting at the back. Drill one pilot hole on
each end of the slats and screw them to the seat brace. Screw the front seat
slat to the seat brace as well as the front stretcher (B).

With the completion of this phase, you'll start to see a chair emerging. Flip the chair onto its
legs and cut and predrill the seat slats. Glue and screw them to the seat braces with 1-5/8 in.
deck screws (Photo 10). Dont overdrive the screwsthe heads should be just flush with
the seat slats. The last step of the assembly is to fasten the arms to the arm supports and the
legs as shown in Photos 11 and 12. The notches you cut near the back of the arms hold the
back assembly firmly in place and reduce the stress on the screws at other joints. These
compound notches slice through the arm at an angle. Cut the depth carefully with a
handsaw and then chisel out the notch.
Once the chair is assembled, ease all the edges with 100-grit sandpaper, paying particular
attention to the seat and arms. If the wood feels damp or cold to the touch, you may need to
let the chair dry in a shaded area for a few days before you sand or stain it.
We used an Olympic oil-based cedar natural tone stain that lets the grain show through.
Several options are available, including custom semitransparent stains that a paint supplier
can mix for you. A quart will easily do a pair of chairs or a chair and love seat. This finish
will last at least several years and can be cleaned and recoated as it shows signs of wear.
Back to Top 1

Step 5: Add a personal touch

Photo 13: Mark and trim the back

Create a round back by measuring down 15 in. from the top and draw a 14-in.
radius with a homemade compass.

You can build our step-back version of the chair and love seat or experiment with other
shapes to suit your sense of style. Feel free to try the gable or round back shown below or
draw a different shape on paper, tape it to the chair and step back to see how you like it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4IM4repuEI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lzYwLAJsN5Q

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aw8mgZcxxCc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwaw3hJziTc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MRL3p7CrwtI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wvL-mr0bDI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jL90VbeHuk0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9RcDBbc-ms

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrVCEETJ-gc

Sillas convertibles multifuncionales

Hoy vamos a ver dos sillas muy originales que buscan solucionar posibles
problemas de espacio ofrecindonos una gran versatilidad en muy poco espacio.
Las creaciones que veremos son la silla Superbambi del estudio Scoope Design y
la silla Stool+ de la diseadora Marta Morawska.
Me gusta mucho apreciar como las dos creaciones han adaptado de manera
diferente un concepto similar. Ambos diseos han buscado crear una silla
multifuncional con un diseo minimalista y prctico, y los resultados son muy
diferentes, aunque ambos realmente atractivos.

Y vamos a empezar analizando la silla del estudio americano Scoope Design.

Superbambi es una silla que a travs de un innovador sistema de fijacin nos
permite tener en una misma creacin una silla, una mesa baja, un pequeo
taburete y un escritorio para nios con banco incluido. Sin duda, se trata de una
compra muy interesante.
La estructura blanca de la silla es fija y solo cambiando la estructura naranja y
fijndola en ella actuar como respaldo de silla o como banco para el escritorio de
los nios. Sus dos orejeros actan como apoyabrazos en el respaldo en la silla
adulta y como patas para el banco infantil.

Por su parte la silla Stool+ de la diseadora polaca Marta Morawska es

inicialmente un sencillo taburete de madera natural, pero que nos permite
evolucionarlo hasta convertirlo en una cmoda silla o incluso en una especie de
taburete alto.
Lo mejor de esta evolucin es su sistema de transformacin, ya que el respaldo
est astutamente escondido en los pies traseros del taburete y pueden sacarse
fcilmente de ellos, sin que tengamos que aadir ninguna pieza adicional. Todo de
una forma intuitiva y rpida.
Como vemos ambas sillas son muy interesantes, una de ellas ms ldica, otra ms
elegante, pero las dos creaciones son increblemente tiles y atractivas.
Puedes comprar cualquiera de estas dos sillas en su pgina web, que encontrars
en las fuentes. Actualmente comprar en Internet es algo fcil, sencillo y en lo que
se puede confiar, como la web deDscuento.com. Adems all tambin podris
encontrar sillas u otros elementos de decoracin del hogar, ya que disponen de
ofertas y descuentos para algunas tiendas como la tienda online Infurn dentro de
Dscuento.
Sillas convertibles Superbambi y Stool+

Artculos de la etiqueta: sillas convertibles

Silla,
y enestantera
Si recin te escalera
mudas y deseas tener
tu hogar un todo en uno, mira esta preciosa y
prctica silla llamada Elda. En apariencia es solo un asiento pero no, si la despliegas se vuelve
una escalera y tambin una estantera. Bien multifactica, no?
Los muebles convertibles son mucho ms verstiles y solucionan ante todo los problemas de
espacio. Elda Chair es una moderna creacin de la diseadoraElda Bellone. La firma Scoope
Design es la encargada de comercializarla dejando en claro las comodidades de este mueble tan
peculiar.

Silla Elda

Caractersticas
de Elda Chair
Diseo funcional.

Realizada en madera pintada al agua.

Viene con una funda de fieltro.
Convertible en una escalera o una estantera para colocar objetos.
Cierre magntico.
Fabricada con materiales 100% ecolgicos.

Escalera Elda

Silla
con distintos usos
De acuerdo a lo que necesites en el momento, podrs adaptar tu silla Elda. Si deseas alcanzar
algo de lugares altos puedes transformarla, en cuestin de minutos, en una escalera; pero si lo
que pretendes es sentarte a leer un buen libro puedes hacerla el asiento ms cmodo del mundo.
Y atencin que esto no es todo, cuando desees tener a mano una librera o estantera para
colocar cosas tambin puedes contar con tu Elda.
Sin dudas este diseo de Bellone es el asiento multiuso ideal para hogares
pequeos u oficinas.

Estantera Elda
Si deseas equipar tu casa con estilo lee estas publicaciones: Decora con sillas de distintos
colores y Laminart Collection de Jorge Goval.
Si quieres enterarte de las ltimas novedades en Decoracin, puedes seguirnos en Twitter y
en Facebook. All publicamos diariamente sobre esta temtica no te pierdas ninguno de nuestros
artculos! Adems, estaremos encantados de resolver tus dudas e interactuar contigo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0hIMRojIDQ4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5g6KJVhw0V8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9dTCuIbKGjs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2z89fgLsxMc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?
v=qK0rZ5LMcho&list=PLmVsiv0WHYhIXu3bgXu7aAIWllNQIBfXS

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOOOMRv5c74