INTRODUCTION:

With paper-white skin, demur red-painted lips, glorious silk kimonos

and elaborate jet-black hair, Japan's geisha are one of the most iconic
images associated with the "Land of the Rising Sun."
Geishas are often seen as the center of original Japanese culture, or
the last protectors of the old values and visual art.
Geishas are one of the symbols of Japanese tradition.

I. Japanese Geisha
A. History
While geisha are relatively modern in their emergence, dating
back to the early 1700s, geisha-type women have existed since the
earliest history of Japan. Two notable predecessors to geisha were the
Saburuko, who came onto the scene at the end of the 7th century, and
the Shirabyoshi, who emerged during the late Heian early Kamakura
period (1185-1333 AD).
Saburuko, (literally meaning "ones who serve"), were the result
of an increasing social displacement towards the end of the 7th
century. Many women found themselves having to become wanderers,

who had to resort to trading their sexual favours in order to survive.

While most of these women were from the lower class, there were
among them who were quite educated and talented. These particular
Saburuko who were talented dancers and singers often found
themselves invited to entertain at aristocratic gatherings.
Shirabyoshi (who adopted their name from the dance that they
performed) appeared at a time when the social structure in Japan was
starting to break down. The changing fortunes of many aristocratic
families had resulted in the daughters of these families becoming
Shirabyoshi in order to survive. These women, who were often highly
educated, soon became valued for their dancing and poetic talent.
They were supported by many upper class families including the
famous aristocratic families of the Fujiwara and Taira, and in some
cases even gave birth to noble children.
Meanwhile, back to the early 1600s, the Japanese government
was very focused on upholding morality. This meant that entertainers
and prostitutes were allowed to work if they were licensed and in a
specific area of a city. It started when a marshy patch of land
(Yoshiwara) in Edo (now Tokyo) had been designated as the site for a
brothel district under the authority of the Tokugawa shogunate.
Eventually, many of these districts arise, usually located on the
outskirts, and were called the pleasure quarters. This was the safe

zone for fantasy, frivolity and luxurious display. These pleasure

quarters had walls built around them and were strictly controlled by
the government.Brothels and the like were not allowed to operate
outside the district and strict rules were applied. Included among these
were that no customers were allowed to stay in a brothel more than 24
hours; courtesans (licensed prostitutes) were to wear simple dyed
kimonos; and any suspicious or unknown visitors were to be reported
to the Office of the City Governor. These pleasure quarters of the
different cities would later be famous for the geisha.
With Japan enjoying a long-awaited period of peace following
centuries of civil war, many samurai found that society no longer had
such need of their services. It's thought that many daughters of these
formerly noble families became courtesans. Peace also brought an
increase in prosperity and the rise of the merchant class, or chonin.
Add that to the presence of artists and an atmosphere free of the
strictures of the outside world, and it truly was something of an adult
amusement park, with culture thrown in for good measure.
For most of the 17th and 18th centuries, courtesans dominated
the licensed pleasure quarters of Edo (now Tokyo), Kyoto, and other
large cities, providing all kind of services, including music, to clients.
Around 1730, a group of entertainers known as geisha/geiko emerged
to assist the courtesans. When geisha entertainment first started, it

was performed solely by men(otoko geisha), serving guests with

music,eating,drinking, lighthearted conversation, and comical play. The
first female geisha(onna geisha) appeared around 1750. The transition
of male to female geisha varied depending on the city. A few years
later, they quickly outnumbered their male counterparts, and by 1800
a geisha was presumed to be a female. Early geisha, whether male or
female, were strictly regulated by the government. They were not, for
example, to sit close to courtesans clients, much less to have personal
relations with them.
Geisha sometimes worked outside the licensed pleasure
quarters. In Edo, there were several unlicensed pleasure districts
located along the Sumida River where pleasure boats came and went.
Free from elaborate etiquette and government restrictions, these
districts, with their teahouses and restaurants, became popular with
men hosting geisha parties for their friends and business associates.
Their clientele was not limited to the wealthy, however. At a time when
the world of pleasure had come to focus on the masses, the simpler
but still refined style of geisha appealed to the vital and spirited tastes
of a new type of clientthe fast-talking, easy-spending men of Edo
known as Edokko. But some of the entertainers, known as town
geisha, flouted the rules, engaging in unlicensed prostitution. As a
result, the geishas reputation became somewhat tarnished.

B. DEFINITION
Geishas(or Geiko, as what they called in Kyoto, Japan) are the
artisans and entertainers of traditional Japan and often described as
the "century old professional entertainer". A geisha is a traditional,
professional entertainer trained in various performing arts such as
dancing, singing, music, games, calligraphy, flower arranging, Sado
(tea ceremony) poetry, conversation and social graces as well as
different kinds of musical instruments especially the three-stringed
instrument called Shamisen. The white make-up and elaborate
traditional kimono and hair is the popular image held of geisha. Basic
wooden geta clogs are worn for footwear, and hair is up in bun type
coiffures trimmed with metallic accessories. Elegant performances of
geisha keep attracting many people worldwide.
The word Geisha consists of two kanji, (gei) meaning "art" and
(sha) meaning "person" or "doer". The most literal translation of
geisha into English would be "artist," "performing artist," or "artisan"
and is the most common term and the best-known outside Japan. Art is
life for the geisha and to polish one's life into a work of art is the
geisha's ideal. Their practices are called "shikitari" and are a very
specific kind of custom and method for poised living and
communication. Geisha is often called "high class courtesan". Contrary

to this belief, a geisha is not a prostitute. Her primary role is to

entertain through the arts. Aside from that, the majority of the world
thinks of a geisha as a white-faced lady with her hair in a bun and a
kimono on. The geisha are much more than women with too much
make-up on. To become a geisha, it takes years of extensive training
and keep improving their skills by taking many lessons. Geishas are
truly artists who use themselves as the canvas.

II. Stages of Training to become a Geisha

It costs approximately $500,000 to train a geisha today. Because
of this, the okasan(literally "Mother", mistress of an okiya) must be
sure that the apprentice is resolute in her decision to become a geisha.
In the past, girls were simply bought and sold to an okiya(or geisha
house) and more often than not, would not run away because they
would be unwilling to bring dishonor to her family. Today, a girl makes
her own decision to become part of an okiya and seeks a personal
recommendation. Girls often begin their geisha training at a young
age. Before becoming a geisha one must endure a five year
apprenticeship during which she will experience a multitude of phases.
There are three stages of training: shikomi, minarai, and maiko. After
completing each of the stages, the apprentice will go through a rite of
passage that will symbolize her ascension to the next level.

A. Shikomi
When a girl first arrives at the okiya, which will be her new home,
she will not automatically dive into her apprenticeship. First, she will
spend approximately one year as a shikomi. Shikomi refers to a girl
who is to become a geisha who has not yet started her apprenticeship.
At this stage, she wears informal kimono, to get used to the change,
every day but will wear no makeup.Shikomi girls spend some period of
time simple getting used to life at the okiya and begin to learn the
myriad rules and customs which govern the community. She will also
start taking classes in various arts,attending dance and music lessons
and grow their hair to anticipate the elaborate hairstyles they will be
wearing after they become maiko(geisha apprentice). Shikomi is a
stage of servitude where a young girl works as a maid or servant to the
okiya, cleaning, doing errands and so on. After passing an intense
dance exam, shikomi become minarai.
B. Minarai
The next stage after shikomi, is Minarai literally "learning by
observation". At this stage, a Minarai will be dressed like a maiko and
attend banquets and will learn how to put up hair for first hairstyle &
make-up. They will also learn traditional Japanese dances and begin
learning shamisen. Minarai no longer have chores, but rather focus on
training in the field, where they learn skills such as light conversation
and how to interact with guests. They usually are not invited to parties,

but attend as guests of senior geisha. They can be hired, but may only
charge a portion of the price of a full-fledged geisha. To show that she
is still not yet a maiko, her obi is tied at half length. Girls are minarai
for only a short period of time before they become maiko, or
apprentice geisha. This stage lasts only about a month or so.
C. Maiko
A maiko is essentially an apprentice and is therefore bonded
under a contract to her okiya. The okiya supplies her with food, board,
kimonos, obis, and other tools of her trade. Her training is very
expensive, and her debt must be repaid to the okiya with the earnings
she makes. This repayment may continue after the maiko becomes a
full-fledged geisha and only when her debts are settled is she
permitted to move out to live and work independently. Maiko (literally
"dance girl") are apprentice geisha, and this stage can last for years.
Maiko learn from their onesan(senior geisha mentor) and follow them
to all their engagements. The relationship between maiko and onesan
is extremely important. The onee-san will teach her proper ways of
serving tea, playing shamisen, dancing, casual conversation and more.
The onee-san will even help pick the maiko's new professional name
with kanji or symbols related to her name. An apprentice may be a
maiko for months or years before becoming a geiko, or professional
geisha. Geiko may charge full price to attend parties or engagements.

Traditionally, their time is measured by the burning of an incense stick.

In Tokyo, young women rarely go through a formal apprentice stage,
instead becoming geisha in their twenties.

III. Japanese Geisha Make-up

A. Origin
The origins of white make-up in Japanese culture especially
among Geisha are still uncertain even nowadays. It has been said that
in the middle ages, a Japanese traveller returned from Europe with
stories of "pale-faced" beauties. Although this might sound plausible, it
is also been said that the white make-up is originated from mainland
China and was adopted by Japanese courtesans. Considering that its
use first in Japanese history dated back as early as the Heian Era (7941185 AD), a time when Japanese was greatly influence by the Chinese
culture, this sounds like the most likely version.
B. Relation of make-up to beauty
Make-up for maiko and geisha women signifies different stages of
a girl's development, or in other words, maturity. A geisha's
appearance changes throughout her career, from the girlish, heavily
make-up maiko, to the more sombre appearance and more
sophisticated, less flashy style of an older established geisha. Even a

detail of the length of one's eyebrows is significant. Short eyebrows are

for the young and long eyebrows display maturity. The older geisha
has the experience and charm, so she does not require additional feat.
It simply says that being natural and light is more beautiful.
C. Levels of Make-up
1. For Maiko
Maiko wear very much make-up. Maiko paint their faces white,
but leave a line of bare skin around their natural hairline. There is also
a greater amount of cherry blossom pink blush on the cheek and eye
area, and her eyes are outlined in deep crimson and black, and the
eyebrows are defined with a noticeable amount of red or pink under
the black. She will also only partially paint her lip, a small proportion of
the lower lip in crimson. For the first three years, a maiko wears this
heavy makeup almost constantly. During her initiation, the maiko is
helped with her makeup either by her onesan or by the okaa-san. After
this, she applies the makeup herself. After a maiko has been working
for three years, she changes her make-up to a more subdued style.
The reason for this is that she has now become mature, and the
simpler style shows her own natural beauty.
2. For Gaiko/Geisha
Geishas wear very little make-up and the little they do wear is

nature based and contains very subtle colours. When geisha wear the
white makeup, they leave no bare hair line, due to them wearing
katsura. They have minimal amount of crimson and black outlining the
eyes, and their eyebrows are faintly defined with red or pink under the
black. The pink blush is subtle hint, and used for contouring. A geiko
will sometimes leave out the red on her eyes and eyebrows completely.
She will paint her lips almost in full with crimson. A geisha not wearing
white makeup will wear a subtle, often natural shade of make-up and
her hair pulled back in a simple bun. A full-fledged geiko may wear
simpler make-up once she has been working for three years. The most
mature geishas have almost no makeup at all, although even they
wear the heavy cosmetics for formal events. For geisha over thirty, the
heavy white make-up is only worn during those special dances that
require it.

IV. Reasons of Applying the Make-up

V. Impact on the levels of make-up among Geisha women to Japanese

people
A. Children
B. Youth
C. Elderly

Conclusion :
the geisha is an important part of traditional Japanese social life.
Geishas are one of the symbols of Japanese tradition.
A geisha is unique to Japanese culture.
- Geishas have been existing for many years now. They have their
roots in women who educated the nobility and the emperors
concubines. Later on, after the civil wars, when many Samurai had the
feeling that society didnt need them any more, many of their
daughters went to become Geishas, and the way of performing and
entertaining men was remodelled through these girls. Geishas are also
seen as the female counterpart of the Samurai, because many girls
brought the values of the samurai with them and taught them. Over
time the culture changed a lot but it was always a part of Japanese
culture. There are many people who think badly of them, especially in
Japan, and think they are prostitutes. And on the other hand there are

people who think them great. But, if we think about it, theres not one
thing everyone thinks the same about.

- The idea of the geisha has long been romanticized and made popular
by Hollywood and stage productions. However, being a geisha in real
life is a challenging and demanding profession that is more and more
becoming a dying art.
Geisha work very hard at their quality of art and tradition. They are to
be respected and admired for what they have contributed to in the
world of exotic makeup and continue to give to culture, tourism, and
tradition.

- Their face snow white, eyes and eyebrows lined in crimson and black,
bee stung lips - painted crimson. This is the face and make-up we have
come to associate with maiko and geisha. Although their make-up is
surely one of the most recognizable elements about them, it is
interesting to note, that this has not always been the case.

- In their lifetimes, most Japanese people never meet a geisha (GAYshah), a woman trained to provide lighthearted company and
entertainment to men. Yet to many outsiders, the geisha is a symbol of
Japanese culture.

Art is life for the geisha and to polish one's life into a work of art is the
geisha's ideal. Their practices are called "shikitari" and are a very
specific kind of custom and method for poised living and
communication. Many in Japan consider geishas to be the opposite of
wives. They are artistic rather than practical, sexy rather than proper,
and witty rather than serious.

- Geishas are often seen as the center of original Japanese culture, or

the last protectors of the old values and visual art. They have also

often described as objects of safety for the Japanese. Since 1600 the
samurai culture was ruling in Japan. In that world, geisha was
institution of safety - with geishas, samurais and people could talk
about their worries.

It is important to realize that geisha is a symbol of Japan, similarly like

mount fuji. Perhaps young japanese don't know much about geishas,
but most of them feel geisha is somewhat central part of their own
culture. Although the image of geisha in kimono is perhaps the first
thing people in west get in their minds when thinking about Japan
geisha however is hardly a sign of Japan. Symbol, much more than a
sign.

Apprentice geisha are called maiko ( or ), literally "dance

child") or hangyoku (), "half-jewel" (meaning that they are paid half
of the wage of a full geisha),or by the more generic term o-shaku (),
literally "one who pours (alcohol)". The white make-up and elaborate
kimono and hair of a maiko is the popular image held of geisha.