This assignment had me stationed in a local retail environment for about two hours.

I
observed the behavior of customers in a Jewish deli as holidays approached. I performed
subsequent analysis. One learns a lot by observation.

Emanu-el Deli at 52 W. Railroad Avenue in Tenafly, NJ - Analysis

(Retail business owned by Kfir Sayag, an Israeli gentleman who had one woman working with
him)
by Nick Stefanowicz

Field Notes Write-Up

1. One to two hours of observations. What did I see?
I saw nine customers (or groups) come into the Emanu-el Deli in Tenafly, NJ on Thursday
November 12, 2015, between the hours of 3pm and 4:30 pm. I mentioned to the owner that I
would be having a look at what customers did for a project for school, and the owner was
delighted. He said that I should come in anytime. The place had a stock of many groceries, a
fresh olive and pickle bar where you purchase per pound; yet it was the smell from the bakery
section that was the strongest. From outside you would have thought it was a confectioner not a
deli as the sign advertised.
A woman came in by herself and bought fresh appetizers on a plate. She had not ordered this in
advance, yet it was a nice plate of goods pre-prepared almost for catering. I asked the woman if
she was setting these aside for an occasion and she told me they were simply for shabbat
(Orthodox holiday observance from Friday sundown until Saturday sundown). She said the deli
had tremendous appetizers, fresh bread and desserts.
A second woman came in with her daughter. They were obviously orthodox and dressed in dark
accordingly. They were locals and had no accent. It appeared they were at the deli to supplement
their lunch as the girl, who was about age 14 helped her mom pick out from the fresh olive and
pickle bar that is set up in the store.
An older woman came in and bought a loaf of challah bread (twisty looking) which had been
baked fresh, and then what looked like olive or vegetable oil that had Hebrew on the label. She
spent a short time in the store and knew exactly what she wanted and where to find it. She also

had a lot of fun and laughed with the saleswoman. The owner of the deli shouted up to say Hi.
The next woman was middle aged and Israeli. She spoke Hebrew only to the owner. This
particular woman was a fan of the canned beans, which had Hebrew labels but I recognized the
pictures. I also noticed a ton of pita bread and a few fresh baked items in her cart. I managed a
picture on my phone, which is below.
In came a younger Israeli lady and her two kids, a boy and a girl. They were about 10 and 12
years old. I have a feeling they came in from the Chabad House Jewish school nearby. After a
loaf of bread was purchased, many sweets were chosen by the kids, including Nutella chocolate
hazelnut spread, which I do not think is Kosher. I saw Hebrew-labeled candy bars or gum. No
English was spoken among the kids and mother, but the kids spoke English to each other.
A while passed before another customer came in. This was a man of about 50 who chatted with
the owner, looked over the baked goods that were sweet, grabbed one or two baked items which
he quickly put back, made some remarks in Hebrew which drew a chuckle out of Kfir, and left.
He turned out to be an Israeli tire kicker. He did not buy anything. I think he was hoping
something out of the usual was available, and, since it was not, he left with nothing. This was
slightly disappointing because it was the only man I'd seen walk into the store until this point.
Another woman of approximately 40 years of age comes into the store and picks up 3 containers
from the olive bar and then heads to the bakery area for cakes and bread. I did not hear her speak
much but believe she was also Israeli. The cakes come in boxes but bread such as pita and lof
are in loose-fitting plastic bags so you really get a feel for size and shape. This seems to help
customers decide which size is right for them. I would also be squeezing for freshness if I bought
one (which I may, if not only for the owner allowing me to stand and observe as I am doing!)
Canned goods was the theme for the next woman who walked in with a daughter of 5 or so. This
was a non-Israeli woman. She bought cooking oil and a package of pita bread. The child stayed
with her but wanted candy. Some things are consistent everywhere! I am seeing a theme here of
food easy to prepare or pre-prepared, knowing the shabbat day is tomorrow (Friday) and that
there is little time to prepare food after work but before sunset - especially during the month of
November when it gets dark so early.
Lastly I find an Israeli couple of about 55 who make a large purchase. Their car had a New York
license plate (NY border is only about 15 minutes from Tenafly). The loaves of bread and pita
are front and center, plus pickles from the fresh bar and packs of water and fruit juice. The

breads, desserts and bottles of fruit juice take up all of a shopping cart, which I have only seen
used once before in the hour and a half. This couple spent a lot of time browsing, and got a
robust salute from the owner, so it seems they are pretty well acquainted.

Analysis

2. Here I perform a preliminary analysis and identifying four observations of behaviors and/or
activities that you can connect to themes of food

Observation 1: Food preparation is part of the female gender identity within the Jewish
community of New Jersey. There was only one man who came in shopping on his own, while the
other was with his wife. This seems a very traditional role in New Jersey suburbia but was
certainly evident in the customer base of Emanu-el Deli, which were Israeli people or American
Orthodox Jews. Not only did the women buy, it was obvious to me they had planned the meals as
well, as I was seeing fresh ingredients go out the door along with pre-packaged goods. People I
talk to who work full time, or have houses with kids, including my own, have fathers picking up
meals or ingredients on their way home by 4 or 5 p.m. and not only women. At Emanu-el Deli
the ratio was much weighted towards the women of the households.

Observation 2: The availability of Israeli food - not just cuisine, but to the raw ingredients - show
delocalization of foods in developed countries. Whereas at one time American-produced
equivalents of matzoh would be available in regular supermarkets, we now find places like
Emanu-el which sell true imports of actual meals and components. This can be a sign of a town
maturing and becoming more secular with ethnicities creating their own institutions, as well as a
smart businessman looking to pull out an ethnic niche and its customers. A few customers pulled
up in cars from out-of-state license plates, so they were travelling to the store, or else patronized
the store while driving around.

Observation 3: The gentleman who owned the store, Kfir, clearly was, according to the Bestor
reading, "angling for wider customer base." He was very kind and affable to me, a non-Jew
doing a study for college, and a person who was young enough to have friends in the community

to whom I could spread the word to peers. He also had stocked some candies and foods that
seemed non-kosher. I believe some Israelis are not 100% kosher as Orthodox locally are, but
clearly, there were some items on the shelves to grab attention of non-Jewish or non-Israeli
customers.

Observation 4: A major spread of ethnicity and food had made its way into Tenafly, NJ. I
originally thought the store would cater to Orthodox Jews who mainly go to the nearby Jewish
Chabad House. However, I was told the store is a "haven for Israelis" and thus they are as much
of a target base. I found this to be an interesting mix, as most Israelis dress casually and not in
the traditional dark garb of the Orthodox. The one overlapping set of customers, in the store at
the same time, one who was Orthodox and the other Israeli, did not greet each other. Somehow,
in their own ways, each of these Jewish cultural groups found themselves comfortable at Emanuel Deli - one totally American-raised and the other, immigrants from afar.

2a) List of References:

Bestor, T.C. (2005). How sushi went global. In Dufour, D. L., Goodman, A. H., & Pelto, G. H.
(Eds.) Nutritional Anthropology: Biocultural Perspectives on Food and Nutrition, (2012), 367371. Oxford University Press.
Mintz, S. W., & Du Bois, C. M. (2002). The Anthropology of Food and Eating. Annual review
of anthropology, 99-119.
Pelto, G.H. & Pelto, P (1983). Diet and delocalization: Dietary Changes Since 1750. In Dufour,
D. L., Goodman, A. H., & Pelto, G. H. (Eds.) Nutritional Anthropology: Biocultural Perspectives
on Food and Nutrition, (2012), 353-361. Oxford University Press.

Reflection

1. Write one paragraph (4-5 sentences) minimum reflecting on your position as a

researcher. How does your own cultural identity and background affect how you see
and understand environments and activities? What are some possible biases that you
bring to this research?
I found that I had a lot to learn, even in the town where I grew up. I picked a deli that is about
three years old, but contained a lot of foods I did not know about, quite a few of which I could
not even read the label. It was as if I had entered a different land. There was camaraderie in this
deli, though. The owner was Israeli and had natural rapport with his Israeli customers. I was at
ease with the difference in language and culture, because I have Italian and Greek relatives and
have been to outings where those ethnicities gather and use native tongue or food. Once you
open your mind to other ethnicities, you are find in a place like Emanu-el. Kfir, the owner, was
not at all off-putting since I was not Israeli or Jewish; in fact he was happy I was interested.
Thus, not only was I, as an observer, in a great place to be educated on food, I was educated on
ethnicity - and found a new corner of my own town. This was a gratifying experience.

Follow Up Questions
1. Imagine that you have been awarded funding to launch a 5-year research study at your
restaurant/market/festival. Based on what you observed in your short time at your site,
what would you want to know more about and why? In the space below, pose 2 research
questions you would follow up on in further research at your site and explain your
reasoning.
1. I would be very interested in knowing the difference between eating habits of the Orthodox
Jewish as opposed to Israelis. Are most Israeli people, Orthodox? Is it asmaller number? Do
Orthodox American Jews relate to Israel in manner or just in theory as being part of the overall
Jewish Nation? I get into some heavy-duty thinking, and would like to clarify the blurred line
between religion and ethnicity when the homeland is not in common.

2. To what extent is my town becoming more secular? How is it that the Tenafly of 75 years ago
I read about in local history books, where the goal was assimilation and acceptance - a clear

majority (WASP) were the only ones who held any kind of local seats on school boards or
Council - to today, where now we see ethnic community centers and restaurants popping up?
Likewise, we are getting places in town like Emanu-el, which is a grocery store and not a drivethru experience. What does food tell us about multi-ethnicity and tolerance in my town?

This cart (below) belonged to the customer who loaded up on challah bread, pita and beans.