Professional Documents
Culture Documents
New Trillion
SINCE
1947
Baiyang Qui's
Breeze Brooch
PAGE 18
MARCH 2016
Dare to
RETHINK
SMART
Fabricate a Cybernetic
Barrette, p. 46
Get the
WAY COOL
WIRE TOOLS
Collection
AS SEEN IN
LS &
COOL TOO
15
.
p
HIP TIPS
Plus
Ofbeat
tourmalines
Up-to-date
social
strategies,
p. 10
Schools and
more! p. 50
$3890
SALE
from A
00
$
$5900
755
SALE
$1200
$28990
F
$39900
H
$28500
NEW
styles, all of which are scaled-down versions of silversmiths hammers. All are 8 3/4 long approximately
and have handles fashioned from rosewood.
C DAPPING TOOL SET [Item 190-242] Includes 49mm (1 7/8) dapping block and
24 punches, 2.3mm to 25mm in diameter. The depressions on the Die range in diameter from 3.8mm to 40mm. Provided with wood stand.
D ECONOMY FLEXSHAFT MACHINE [Item 236-971] With its powerful 1/8 HP motor and spring-reinforced sheath, our Economy Flexshaft is an outstanding value. The 1
diameter No. 30-style handpiece is equipped with a Jacobs-style chuck that accepts any bur, drill bit, or rotary tool with a shank up to 5/32 diameter. Operates at speeds up to 22,000 RPM, regulated by a carbon resistance foot rheostat. Shaft connection accepts any American-style (QD connection) handpiece.
Furnished with itted carrying case. E PEPE JUMP RING MAKER [Item 400-124] Produce jump rings quickly and easily with the newly redesigned Jump Ring
Maker. Coil your wire around one of the twenty mandrels (diameters range from 2.5 to 12 mm) using the hand-winder. Once the coil is formed, place
it in the adjustable coil holder and saw through it using the included rotary saw and handpiece guide. Flexshaft machine with a no. 30 style handpiece
required (sold separately). F COMPACT GUILLOTINE SHEAR [Item 410-944] With 4 wide hardened tool steel blades, this compact guillotine shear from Pepetools
can cut nonferrous sheet metal up to 0.8mm thick (20 gauge). Integrated into the back of the shear is a measuring gauge that enables you to cut
consistently precise lengths of sheet stock. The table features an adjustable miter fence with markings. Constructed of machined and plated steel and
aluminum components. The shear takes up very little room on your bench top. G ECONOMY ROLLING MILL [Item 190-891] Surprisingly affordable, this mill is
equipped with two 43 mm dia. fl at, hardened steel rolls and two wire rolls, all 76 mm wide. Wire rolls have grooves from .75 to 4.3 mm wide. Has 4:1 gear
reduction for easier operation. Includes a 1 year warranty. H JEWELERS WORKBENCH (UPS Shippable) [Item 110-234] Hand-crafted from solid woods for durability
and strength. Railing on 3 sides. Equipped with metal-lined pull-out tray, pull-out tool shelf with 2 levels, 3 storage drawers, bench pin, and 2 arm rests.
39 wide x 19.5 deep x 39 high. UPS Shippable.
Visit us online at
www.contenti.com
38
24
CONTENTS
4 My Turn
From the Editor: Dont Go Wireless
6 Your Turn
Design Challenges & Letters
8 Their Turn
A Gallery of This Issues Contributors
10
30
3D WIRE
14
14
18
Stylized Nature
design by Cathleen McCarthy
24
46
TOURMALINE
38
40
by Deborah Yonick
46 Cybernetic Barrette
jewelry project by Roger Halas
18
60 Facets
News & Product Innovations
ADVERTISING SECTIONS
55 Focus on Education
70 Classieds
70 Gem & Jewelry Shops
71 Advertisers Index
66 Index to Volume 69
72 The Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist
Doers Prole: Cynthia Eid
MY
TURN
from the editor
l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
Dont Go Wireless
EDITORIAL
CONTENT STRATEGIST, JEWELRY GROUP
Jean Cox
JEWELRY EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Merle White
JEWELRY FEATURES MANAGER Helen I. Driggs
JEWELRY DESIGNER MANAGER Denise Peck
GROUP MANAGING EDITOR Mallory Leonard
JEWELRY EDITOR Karla A. Rosenbusch
GROUP PROMOTION EDITOR Lindsay Jarvis
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Tom & Kay Benham,
Lexi Erickson, Sharon Elaine Thompson
ART
ART DIRECTOR Amy Petriello
VIDEO MANAGER Garrett Evans
MARKETING
VP, ECOMMERCE MARKETING Evelyn Bridge
MARKETING MANAGER Hollie Kuhlmann
ADVERTISING
ADVERTISING MANAGERS
Marilyn Koponen, ph. 877-613-4613
Stephanie Griess, ph. 877-613-4630
CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING REPRESENTATIVE
Tina Hickman, ph. 970-613-4697
AD TRAFFICKER Lisa Buelow
Merle.White@fwcommunity.com
www.jewelrymakingdaily.com
JEWELRY DESIGN
INTERMEDIATE REPAIR
AND SETTING
COMPREHENSIVE CAD/CAM
FOR JEWELRY
YOUR
TURN
reader comments & sketches
NEXT TIME:
DESIGN CHALLENGES
YOUR COVER RIFFS:
Designs based on John F. Heusler, G.G.s
Pectolite & Pearl Pendant, November, 2015.
S
Shevvy
B
Baker
L
Louisville,
K
Kentucky
Bill Roggenkamp
Georgetown,
Kentucky
Maggie
Morawietz
San Antonio,
Texas
YOUR SETTINGS:
Designs based on a pectolite/Larimar
cabochon, November, 2015.
Teresa Estes
Nashville,
Tennessee
Shevvy Baker
Louisville, Kentucky
DEADLINES:
MARCH 31, 2016
l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
WRITE TO US ANYTIME:
What do you think about
what youve seen and read in
Lapidary Journal Jewelry
Artist?
SEND SKETCHES & LETTERS
for possible print or online
publication to: Karla.
Rosenbusch@fwcommunity.
com.
Include your name, city, and
state, and indicate Your Turn
on the subject line.
Thomas Wickline
Tacoma, Washington
Bill Roggenkamp
Georgetown, Kentucky
LETTERS
Re: Cool Tools & Hip Tips, December, 2015
I just received my December issue of
Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist and am
eagerly devouring it (as usual).
There was a small error in Helen Driggs
Cool Tools & Hip Tips column , 25 Days of
Hand Tools. The numbers associated with
the illustrations for the ImpressArt bracelet
bending pliers and hole punch pliers (on
page 21) are reversed. Thought I should
mention it in case there is some confusion.
Thanks for a great magazine!
Marilyn West
Huntsville, Texas
The editors respond: Thanks for your letter, Marilyn. You are
quite correct! The bracelet bending pliers should be Number 25
and the hole punch pliers should be Number 24. Good eye! [For
more of Helen Driggss Cool Tools & Hip Tips, check out the
digital download, Jewelry Making Tools, Tips, and More, Vol. 4:
Cool Tools & Hip Tips, 2013-2014, available soon at www.shop.
jewelrymakingdaily.com. And dont forget to get the first three
volumes, too.]
We get it.
We know what it means to leave a piece
of your heart in every item you make with your hands.
Wee have
W
have aallll tthe
he ttools
ools & ssupplies
upplies yyou
ou nneed
eed ttoo ddoo iit.t.
March 2016
THEIR
TURN
PHOTO: ROGER HALAS
ROGER HALASS
Elephant Pendant
Sterling silver, diamonds, chasing, repouss
Cybernautic Barrette
Page 46
l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
LINDSAY JARVISS
Greta Stole
From Interweave Crochet, Fall 2014
NIKI GRANDICSS
Ghost VI Brooch
Electroformed film positive,
sterling silver, copper, enamel,
glass
Stylized Nature
Page 18
BAIYANG QUIS
Pearl Earrings II
18K yellow gold, Tahitian pearls
Stylized Nature
Page 18
SARAH THOMPSONS
Hera Necklace
Fine silver wire, faceted peridot
Stylized Nature
Page 18
BETSY LEHNDORFFS
Spider Pendant
Sterling silver wire, pearl
March 2016
NET PROFITS
By Cathleen McCarthy
Strategize Your
Social Media
l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
10
SHAKE IT UP!
Part of your plan should be to experiment. Spend a few minutes each day
exploring what others in your eld are
posting on Facebook or Instagram.
Find a few that you relate to and follow
them if you nd their content compelling, but also analyze what theyre
doing and try some of that.
Once you start posting really compelling images, tag people who may be
interested. Credit someone who helped
or inuenced you along the way, for
example. Some will follow you back.
Those with massive followings probably wont be too responsive, at least at
rst. Try engaging more with those just
a bit ahead of you.
Dont just post generic product
listings. We get enough spam, right?
No one wants to log on to social media
to nd more. Sharing and responding
to others is a quick and eective way
to make them happy and attract a few
high-prole followers, but dont spend
all your time reposting.
Were following you because we like
what you bring to the table and that
includes the one thing you have that
no one else does: your own work and
your own eye. The trick to amassing a
huge following is to use the platform
whether Instagram, Pinterest, or something else in a unique way, your way.
Making your
jewelry pin-able
is more important
than having
thousands of
followers on your
Pinboards.
As part of her custom wedding
ring business, Danielle Miller invites
couples to spend the day in her studio
helping her make their rings. This
can be very hands-on, with bride and
groom hammering away, or simply
witnessing the nal touches to their
rings. Either way, Danielle takes photos and short videos of them working
on their jewelry, some of which she
posts on her Facebook page or website
with their permission. Its a great
way to oer the couple a meaningful
keepsake of their rings, as well as a fun
promo of her workshops and custom
design business.
JewelryMakingDaily.com/netprofits
March 2016
11
The Gemmys
l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
2015
12
WWW.INTERWEAVESTORE.COM/THE-GEMMYS-2015
March 2016
13
COOL TOOLS
& HIP TIPS
l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
14
s se e n in
A
COOL TOOLS
I n t h e k it
Then, theres the Spiral Maker.
Once, long ago in this column, I
demoed a homemade version of
this tool using a dowel and poker
chips. That old tool I made still
works, but this new, specifically
designed tool trumps it because
the transparent acrylic lets you
see what you are doing. To make
a spiral, create three shims for
the bolts (out of the same gauge
wire for your project), insert the
spiraling wire into the slot of the
T-bar, and start coiling between
the plastic plates. Flat, even, and
perfecto every time.
WAY COOL
WIRE TOOLS
COLLECTION
March 2016
15
I n t h e k it
LEARN MORE
FROM HELEN
DRIGGS
Metalsmith
Essentials: Basic
Fabrication (DVD)
Metalsmith
Essentials:
Riveting and Cold
Connections (DVD)
The Jewelry Makers
Field Guide (Book)
l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
www.store.
jewelrymakingdaily.
com
16
HAVE A TOOL,
MODIFICATION, OR
BENCH TRICK TO
SHARE?
Email us at Helen.
? Driggs@fwcommunity.
com, subject line Cool
Tools. Please include your
complete contact
information with all
submissions.
MORE COOL
WIRE TOOLS
FROM
BRENDA
SCHWEDER
Now Thats a Jig!
Video and tool
collection
Coming soon
at www.store.
jewelrymakingdaily.
com
COMING
NEXT TIME...
Finding
Making Tools
HELEN DRIGGS is Jewelry Features Manager for Lapidary Journal Jewelry Artist and an experienced metalsmith and
teacher. Follow her blog: materialsmithing.wordpress.com; Instagram feed: hdriggs_fabricationista; and Twitter feed @
fabricationista for more jewelry-related fun.
March 2016
17
Stylized
Nature
Suggesting the organic with wire
l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
BY CATHLEEN MCCARTHY
18
design
OPPOSITE PAGE
Jera Lodge
Trigon Collar
Mild steel wire
PHOTO: COURTESY JERA
LODGE
LEFT
Niki Grandics
Ghost IX Ring
Sterling silver, glass,
copper, enamel,
electroformed film
positive
PHOTO: COURTESY NIKI
GRANDICS
Niki Grandics
Niki Grandics uses wire forms to complement
her glass castings, the material closest to her
heart. She was recently included in Corning
Museum of Glasss exclusive New Glass Review,
having graduated from San Diego State University less than two years ago and winning a Wingate Fellowship the same year. While she makes
a concerted eort to make her jewelry wearerfriendly, much of it has an edgy and industrial
look and many necklaces are quite large.
As a child of immigrants from Hungary,
Grandics grew up dividing her time between
Hungary and California. There was such a contrast between those two places, especially in the
1990s. Communism had just ended in Hungary,
and it was really a dierent world, she says. I
grew up feeling like a sh out of water. Both of
LEFT
Niki Grandics
Ghost XVIII Ring
Steel, glass, film positive
PHOTO: COURTESY NIKI
GRANDICS
March 2016
19
Stylized Nature
l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
20
RIGHT
Baiyang Qiu
Baiyang Qui
Cocoon Brooch
18K yellow gold,
18K pink gold, 18K
red gold, sterling
silver
PHOTOS: COURTESY
BAIYANG JEWELRY
BELOW
Baiyang Qui
Childhood
Daydream II
Brooch
18K yellow gold
Jera Lodge
Abacus Necklace
Steel wire
PHOTO: COURTESY
JERA LODGE
March 2016
21
Stylized Nature
Jera Lodge
Trigon Collar
Mild steel wire
PHOTO: COURTESY
JERA LODGE
l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
Jera Lodge
22
FIND THEM
Niki Grandics
www.nikigrandics.com
Baiyang Qiu
www.baiyangjewelry.com
Jera Lodge
www.jeralodge.com
Samantha Skelton www.samanthaskelton.com
Samantha Skelton
Samantha Skeltons jewelry evolved from
copper wire sculptures, two to ve feet tall,
and maintains that industrial edge. But she
pared them way down when she started making
jewelry, and traded the 2-4 gauge wire she used
for her sculptures for 18-10 gauge wire, usually
patinated silver.
I wanted something sculptural that had
my aesthetic but was also wearable and lightweight, she says. Sculptural wire lends itself
well to something wearable.
Samantha earned her MFA in metalsmithing
ABOVE
Samantha Skelton
Brooch
Sterling silver
PHOTOS: COURTESY SAMANTHA SKELTON
TOP
Samantha Skelton
Cage Earrings
Patinated silver wire
March 2016
23
JEWELRY PROJECT
SKILLS
Modified soumak weave
proficiency
TIME IT TOOK
24
Rued
Wire Woven
Pendant
Master the modified Soumak weave and create a stunning piece
BY SARAH THOMPSON
l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
3-6 hours
Design Start
creating intricate, textural, and dimensional jewelry with wire, all without
soldering. This pendant is a great introduction to layering, which when
coupled with weaving, can open up the possibilities with your own designs.
I nd that stones, pearls, and gems are the perfect complement to the ne
textures of the weave, giving the jewelry a rened, elegant touch.
4
M AT E R I A L S
Create Wire 1
March 2016
25
#1 Design
Features
Shape Originally
I designed this as a
circle but changed
it to accommodate
the marquise stone,
transforming the design
and making it even better
Symmetry
9
fewer rules than what I show here. I
used the tip of my Lindstrom RX pliers.
l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
26
See More
3D Wire
PAGE
18
STYLIZED NATURE
10 11
12
MASTER THE
FORM WITH
Fine Art Wire
Weaving
by Sarah
Thompson
13
www.shop.
jewelrymakingdaily.
com
14 15
16
March 2016
27
#1 Design
Challenges
Deciding how to attach
to a chain I decided to
go minimal.
How to transition the
wire after the rules to
be balanced and not
overpowering.
see
more
work
Their Turn
PAGE 8
28
17
18
19
20
21
spring
Indulge
The most renowned jewelry-artists working today are bringing their skills and
enthusiasm to Bead Fest Springcelebrating its 10th Anniversary in 2016.
Choose from hundreds of hands-on workshops and build your skills while
having an unforgettable time! Flexible education sessions mean you build the
experience you want, when you want.
Longtime jewelry-makers and first-timers welcome.
register now!
BeadFest.com
JEWELRY PROJECT
SKILLS
Detailed soldering
Using solder stop
Working with sanding disks
TIME IT TOOK
l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
Climbing
30
What
Earrings?
Make these climbing ant earrings and
perfect your precise soldering skills!
BY BETSEY LEHNDORFF
3 hours
M AT E R I A L S
March 2016
31
Design Start
My showy Add an Ant
necklace design and a
customer who wanted a
smaller version of it
5 6
7 8
#1 Design
Features
Lifelike jewelry
Nature
Earrings that make
people laugh
l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
32
10
Make Legs
Photo 8 Cut 20 gauge wire into six
3-inch pieces. The extra length is handy
for later.
Photo 9 Using the tips of your round
nose pliers as a mandrel, bend the
middle of each length of wire into a
hairpin shape. Check the t. The bend
in the wire should t tightly around the
solder joins of the ants body.
Photo 10 Use chain nose pliers to bend
a 90 -inch tip at the end of each leg.
Trim the ends with wire cutters so they
are equal.
The body on the left is starting to take shape. It does not have to be
perfect. Small variations and flaws give the ants personality.
11
GET MORE
PRACTICE
How to Solder
Jewelry 2016
Solder
Photo 12 Put on face mask and
magnication visor or safety glasses.
At the Solderite board, position the
body on the back legs so that the ants
backbone, if he had one, is facing up.
Flux well with Prips. Apply a tiny snip of
hard solder to each side where the legs
touch the body, and heat until it ows.
Keep a soldering pick and extra snips of
solder handy. Quench, pickle, and rinse.
Photo 13 Position the body on the center
and front legs, making sure they do
not touch. The back legs will keep
everything upright and steady. Flux well
and apply snips of hard solder. Heat by
waving the ame of the torch gently
over the piece, to avoid melting wires,
until the solder ows. I use sort of a
push-pull method, repeatedly bringing
the ame in close, then pulling back
until the solder ows. Quench, pickle,
and rinse.
12
www.shop.
jewelrymakingdaily.
com/how-to-solderjewelry-2016
13
14
March 2016
33
#1 Design
Challenges
Shaky hands and tiny parts
can make soldering diicult.
Protecting ne wires from
melting also can be a
challenge, especially when
working with hard solder.
The solution is practice!
15
17
16
18
Finish
Photo 15 At your bench, put on a face
see
more
work
Their Turn
l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
PAGE 8
34
19
March 2016
35
SMOKIN STONES
By Sharon Elaine Thompson
The Other
Tourmalines
38
l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
Facet It
PAGE
40
STAR TREK TRILLION
March 2016
39
FACET DESIGN
Star Trek
Trillion
Created for tourmaline
but lively in almost
any gem material
BY JIM PERKINS
l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
I ENJOY
ASTRONOMY
40
PAVILION
FACET
ANGLE
INDEX
COMMENTS
P1
46.70
02-30-34-6266-94
Create a temporary
centerpoint
P2
43.60
06-26-38-5870-90
Meetpoint at the
temporary centerpoint
P3
90.00
02-30-34-6266-94
Set size
P4
90.00
06-26-38-5870-90
P5
45.60
96-32-64
P6
44.00
04-28-36-6068-92
Meetpoint at the
permanent centerpoint
FACET
ANGLE
INDEX
COMMENTS
C1
41.30
02-30-34-6266-94
C2
38.90
06-26-38-5870-90
C3
34.00
04-28-36-6068-92
Girdle meetpoint
C4
18.00
09-23-41-5573-87
Meetpoint at C2 - C2
C5
21.00
96-32-64
Meetpoint at C1 - C1
C6
0.00
Table
Meetpoint at C3 - C3
CROWN
STONE NOTES
Angles for R.I. = 1.540
More
Tourmalines
49 + 12 girdles = 61 facets
3-fold, mirror-image symmetry
96 index
L/W = 1.008 T/W = 0.506 U/W = 0.505
PAGE
38
SMOKIN STONES
March 2016
41
TRENDS
By Deborah Yonick
Get Smart
making jewelry functional in high-tech ways
l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
42
Ringly
Into the Woods Ring
Connect to your phone through your
jewelry
Emerald, 18K gold
PHOTO: COURTESY RINGLY
Swarovski
Activity Tracking Jewelry Cleyera
Wristband
Silicone band, metallic-colored crystals,
black metal-look casing, square black
crystals
PHOTO: COURTESY SWAROVSKI
Richline
Smart Jewelry
Cuff Technology
PHOTO: COURTESY RICHLINE GROUP
Richline
Fitbit Compatible Jewelry
Pendants
PHOTO: COURTESY RICHLINE GROUP
TRENDS
Looking Tech
PAGE
46
CYBERNETIC BARRETTE
Swarovski
Activity Tracking Jewelry Piofiora Wristband
White silicone band, silver-toned crystals set
in Swarovskis Crystal Rocks technique
PHOTOS: COURTESY SWAROVSKI
Swarovski
Activity Tracking Jewelry Vio Reversible
Pendant
Clear crystal pav, black crystal pave,
rhodium-plated chain
l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
Swarovski
Activity Tracking Jewelry Slake bracelets
Carrier in Alcantara and crystals, available in
dark gray, gray, and black
44
Kiran Group
Wearable Tech
CUFF Bracelet
PHOTO:
COURTESY
THE KIRAN
GROUP
Dont chase tech for the sake of tech. Focus on functions and
capabilities that accentuate what your brand and products stand for.
ABOVE
Ringly
Out to Sea Ring
Connect to your phone through your jewelry
Lapis, 18K gold
PHOTO: COURTESY RINGLY
LEFT
Kiran Group
Wearable Tech CUFF Pendant
PHOTO: COURTESY THE KIRAN GROUP
The challenge, says Parkes, is balancing the lasting value of jewelry and
ever-changing aspect of technology.
Theres something to be said for keeping things simple. For jewelry, whats
most important is fashion rst. It must
be a beautiful object youd wear regardless of the technology.
RESOURCES
If you want to learn more, Raskin
advocates checking out incubators/
collaborative spaces like Manufacture
NY that run labs and workshops about
wearables in the fashion and acces-
March 2016
45
JEWELRY PROJECT
SKILLS
Use of uncommon
jewelry materials
Metal fabrication
TIME IT TOOK
8 hours
Cybernetic
Barrette
A sci-fi take on what smart jewelry for the hair might look like
46
l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
BY ROGER HALAS
AS COMPUTER TECHNOLOGY
becomes
more and more integrated into our daily lives, we can imagine a day when
microchip implants and nano-robots will provide us with instant Internet
access or the ability to fight diseases at the microscopic level. This event,
called the Singularity, will occur when this human/machine interface gives
rise to a superintelligence that will make us, in a way, superhuman kind of
like the Borg from Star Trek, only less frightening.
Focusing on the Singularity, I designed a barrette with the look of a cerebral
implant, right out of science fiction. Since modern cybernetics originated in
the 1950s, I wanted to go with a vintage sci-fi look, using a circuit board and a
piece of dichroic glass with its dazzling color play to stand for the battery in this
futuristic bit of wearable art that looks like wearable tech.
4
M AT E R I A L S
March 2016
47
A beading tool is normally used for stone setting, but it happens to have
sharp edges that will easily mark metal, so take advantage of that.
5
10
l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
Really Smart
Jewelry
48
PAGE
42
TRENDS
11
12
see
more
work
Their Turn
PAGE 8
13
14
15
March 2016
49
50
l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
BY LINDSAY JARVIS
What Do
You Know!
education
veryone learns dierently, especially
when it comes to jewelry making! We
wanted to ask the project contributors in
this issue to tell us a few of their favorite educational experiences.
RIGHT
Betsy Lehndorff
Cat Pendant
Betsy Lehndorff
Add an Ant Necklace
March 2016
51
LEFT
Brenda Schweder
Calder Study I Necklace
PHOTO: BRENDA SCHWEDER
BELOW
Brenda Schweder
3D Diamond Necklace
PHOTO: BRENDA SCHWEDER
Inspired by Dad
Making and Designing with Simple Single Links on the Now Thats a
Jig! with Brenda Schweder, video
www.shop.jewelrymakingdaily.com
52
SO MANY DIFFERENT
PEOPLE TAUGHT ME
OVER THE YEARS, AND
I HAVE LEARNED THE
MOST, I THINK, FROM
MY STUDENTS.
AVAILABLE AT WWW.SHOP.
JEWELRYMAKINGDAILY.COM:
10 Faceting Designs: Best of Lapidary Journal
Roger Halas works in several media from polished stones to forged metal. He gives us some
wisdom on being self-taught.
The truth is my educational background
in the realm of jewelry is fairly limited. Using
introductory jewelry books, I became a goldsmith virtually by trial and error. Torch, solder,
ux, and the possibilities were unleashed. After
all, soldering two pieces of metal together isnt
exactly rocket science, although having a basic
understanding of scientic principles helps with
the technical aspects of metal fabrication.
LEFT
Jim Perkins
Megans Wedding Stone
Antique Cusion Cut
Cubic Zirconia
PHOTO: JIM LAWSON
BELOW
Roger Halas
T-Rex Buckle
PHOTO: ROGER HALAS
I also did all their [stone] slabbing and maintained their equipment.
In the old days where I grew up, many gem
club members Kent State professors, high
school teachers, and professional jewelers. I
beneted from all the time and interest they
showed me. My Dad had a number of books
and magazines, Lapidary Journal and Gems and
Minerals specically, which I always read from
cover to cover. So many dierent people taught
me over the years, people I met in my travels
throughout the U.S. I cant even begin to
thank them all.
In 1990, I took faceting lessons at Allens
Rock & Gift Shop in Westlake, attended William
Holland Lapidary School two years in a row, and
in 2001, I was at the Northwest Faceting Guild
in Portland, Oregon, where Jerry Capps gave me
a tutorialon using GemCad for creating facet
designs. When I returned home, I began designing myself. I had a good design background in
art in junior high and continued with evening
and weekend classes through high school. At
the University of Akron, one of mymajors was
March 2016
53
ABOVE
Roger Halas
Dragon Guardian
Medallion
PHOTO: ROGER HALAS
Sarah Thompson
Fallen Pendant
PHOTO: SARAH
THOMPSON
Sarah Thompson
Wendy Boulder
Opal Pendant
l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
PHOTO: SARAH
THOMPSON
54
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Wire Weaving Techniques: Mastering FineGauge Wire Weave with Sarah Thompson,
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March 2016
55
focus
on ...
education
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State-of-the-art jewelry studios feature live
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l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
56
Studio JSD
219 N. 7th St., Suite 4
Grand Haven, MI 49417
(616) 607-2470
www.studiojsd.com
Students at Studio JSD are encouraged to
develop their unique style as they learn
fundamentals in jewelry fabrication. Schedules include multiweek class sessions, studio
intensives, technical classes and visiting artist
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Visit the website for current program schedule including special workshops with Gerry
Lewy, Michael David Sturlin, Julie Sanford
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Georgian College
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Andrea.wenchebach@georgiancollege.ca
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We offer comprehensive diploma and postgraduate certicate programs in beginner
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We have fully equipped jewelry studios, small
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March 2016
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FACETS
news & product innovations
John Dyer
Internal Fire
88.17ct Brazilian Citrine
60
OUTSTANDING GEMS
The 2015 German Award for Jewelry and Precious Stones was presented in IdarOberstein, Germany, on November 27, 2015. First place was awarded to John Dyer for
his 88.17ct red/orange Brazilian Citrine, entitled Internal Fire.
The competition, held every two years, rewards excellence in designer gem cutting.
Criteria for the award include gemstone design, concept, realization of the theme, and
quality of craftsmanship
MORE AT WWW.EDELSTEINE-DIAMANTEN.DE
BEST WIREWORK
RESOURCE
Wirework has become one of the most popular
and artistic forms of jewelry creation. For
evidence, just check out the spectacular designs
in Stylized Nature on page 18
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Ruled Wire Woven Pendant
on page 24.
For creating your own wire
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Jewelry. And you can now get
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JEWELRYMAKINGDAILY.COM
March 2016
61
FACETS
COMING IN
APRIL
Galatea
Dragon Pearl, 2012
King Pearl Collection
14mm Tahitian carved pearl
PHOTO: HAP SAKWA
American pearls
Pearl carving
Torch fired enamel floral
necklace
Wraparound raindrop
ring
NEWS TO SHARE?
? Facets accepts news and images
GEM AND
JEWELRY GUIDE
2016
62
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March 2016
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l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
64
Next, we
prepared
two sheets of
aluminum foil
sandwiched
back to
back which
we heavily
crinkled
and then
partially opened as before. Then we
tightened the roll mill slightly and ran
the sandwich through the roll mill again.
This time the texture was exactly what
the student desired. Now we are sharing
this technique with you. Enjoy!
TIP OF OUR
HAT TO . . .
Nechamkin 10
Small Pattern
Chasing Tools
We freely admit that
we have a problem
when it comes to jewelry making tools. Can you really ever have too
many? That would be a resounding No! from most of us involved in
chasing and repouss especially when it comes to the well-made
tools created by Liza Nechamkin.
We recently began using her new chasing hammer (described in the
September/October, 2015 issue), which has become a favorite, so we
decided to try some other tools and settled on the new 10-piece, small
pattern, chasing tools featuring 9/64 shanks designed especially for
jewelry scale and ne detail work, which perfectly meets our needs.
Because the tools are small, it was a bit difficult to distinguish the tiny
tips from each other, and we were pleasantly surprised to nd each
tool neatly stamped with its own tool number and use.
Lisa worked as a chaser/silversmith at Tifany & Co. for 13 years
and has used, seen, and been inspired by her large collection of 18th
century German, French, and American handmade chasing tools. In
keeping with these traditions, her tools are meticulously handcrafted,
with long graceful tapers, rounded edges, and well-polished surfaces,
making the tools comfortable, and easy to hold and maneuver into
even the nest detail. Kay is especially impressed by the hollow
planisher tool, which has a slight convex radius for tting over curved
surfaces. We both like that the tools are handcrafted in the USA, 100%
American materials and labor. We readily give this set a two thumbs
up rating.
March 2016
65
INDEX TO VOLUME 69
INDEX BY FEATURE/
PROJECT/DEPARTMENT
1
1947
INSIDE...
Super ways
to use
tassels
NOVEMB
NOVEMBER
OVEMBER
2015
015
l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
FEATURE ARTICLES
Artisan Jewelers Who Love Plastic, 54,
12-15
How to Tumble Stones, 26, 05/06-15
Jewelry on the Dark Side, 50, 09/10-15
Maker, Muse, & Pioneer, 42, 08-15
New at Buying Lapidary Rough, 60,
07-15
Photographing Gems and Jewelry, 48,
07-15
Research Your Market, 56, 08-15
Starting Your Jewelry Business, 34,
05/06-15
Stylized Nature, 18, 03-16
Texture with Hammers, Punches, and
Gravers, 18, 11-15
What Do You Know, 50, 03-16
Whats the Best Class Youve Ever
Taken, 54, 04-15
Wonders of Wood Jewelry, 50, 05/06-15
66
PROJECTS/DEMOS/FACET DESIGNS
Alien vs. Predator Ear Cuff, 46, 09/10-15
Bezeled Resin Birds Necklace, 18, 09/10-15
Big Bezel Pendant, 28, 05/06-15
Candelaria Turquoise and Sterling Cross,
20, 04-15
Climbing What Earrings, 30, 03-16
Colorful Enamel Dome Ring, 58, 09/10-15
Cybernetic Barrette, 46, 03-16
Designing with a Shape, 30, 11-15
Designing with Paper Clay, 54, 11-15
Easy Jewelry Photography, 56, 07-15
Fossilized Red Oak & Silver Pendant, 20,
07-15
Growth Rings Wood Brooch, 56, 05/06-15
Hammer Formed Fine Silver Bangles,
34, 01/02-16
Hammered Silver Rose Pendant, 48, 08-15
Heart to Heart Silver & Agate Pendant,
26, 01/02-16
How to Develop a Line: Production Ear
rings, 26, 07-15
Megans Wedding Stone, 14, 12-15
Memento Jewelry, 20, 05/06-15
Metal Clay Double Spinner Ring, 42, 04-15
Metal Clay Hinged Locket, 40, 01/02-16
Mixed Metal Pebble Pendant, 38, 12-15
Moving Metal Clay Ring, 48, 04-15
Mystical Moonstone Ring, 30, 12-15
Native American-Inspired Hammer Set
Pendant, 32, 08-15
Make this
PRONG
TEXTURED
PENDANT
... with surprise back!
Favorite Hand Tools
and Equipment
, HAMMERS, GRAVERS,
PUNCHES p. 18
, TUMBLER, ULTRASONIC CLEANER,
AND MORE p. 12
As seen in:
COOL TOOLS & HIP TIPS!
FINISHING
COLLECTION p. 14
Plus
LaserPatterned
Silver Fern
Cuf
John
Jo
ohn
o
hn Heu
Heusl
He
Heus
eus
eusl
us er's
u
usl
er'
er
r's
Pecto
Pec
Pectolite
Pe
ectolit
e
ctolite
lite
lite
e&
Pear
P
Pearl
arl
rl Pe
Pend
Pen
Pend
nd
dan
ant
a
nt
PAGE
AGE
G 40
GE
40
INDEX BY AUTHOR
With title, page numbers, month,
and year published.
BRIGGS, BARBARA
Resin Sea Flower Pin-Pendant, 30, 04-15
CASE, KATE
Mixed Metal Pebble Pendant, 38, 12-15
CHEN, LILIAN
Square Wire Heart Pendant, 42, 07-15
DENBOW, KIRSTEN
Colorful Enamel Dome Ring, 58, 09/10-15
Shrink Plastic Ring, 36, 08-15
DRIGGS, HELEN I.
25 Days of Hand Tools, 16, 12-15
Bezeled Resin Birds Necklace, 18, 09/10-15
Brass is the New Black, 14, 07-15
Designing with a Shape, 30, 11-15
Forming Tools, 14, 08-15
Metal Stamping, 14, 04-15
New Tools for 2015, 14, 05/06-15
Plastic Fantastic, 14, 09/10-15
Pliers, Jigs, Formers, and Shapers, 14, 03-16
Shop Essentials, 12, 11-15
Tools I Cant Live Without, 14, 01/02-16
ERICKSON, LEXI
Fossilized Red Oak & Silver Pendant, 20,
07-15
Silver Sugar Skull Pendant, 34, 09/10-15
FORTES, BEATRIZ
Big Bezel Pendant, 28, 05/06-15
Hammered Silver Rose Pendant, 48, 08-15
Score and Fold Metal Star, 22, 12-15
FRETZ, BILL
Hammer Formed Fine Silver Bangles,
34, 01/02-16
FULKERSON, JEFF
Candelaria Turquoise and Sterling Cross,
20, 04-15
Heart to Heart Silver & Agate Pendant,
26, 01/02-16
Native American-Inspired Hammer Set
Pendant, 32, 08-15
New at Buying Lapidary Rough, 60, 07-15
FURMAN, KATE
Growth Rings Wood Brooch, 56, 05/06-15
HAAG, TERRI
Jewelry on the Dark Side, 50, 09/10-15
Photographing Gems and Jewelry, 48, 07-15
Wonders of Wood Jewelry, 50, 05/06-15
2016'S TOP SPRING COLORS! Foldform a Silver Star
SINCE
1947
Roger Halas's
Mystical
Moonstone Ring
DECEMBER 2015
PAGE 30
MAKE
THIS
Kite
Shaped
Ring
2-SIDED Spinning
Portrait Pendant
MARRY SILVER
TO BRASS in a
hollow pendant
HANNICKEL, MIKE
Serendipity Holiday Pendant, 60, 11-15
HEUSLER, JOHN F., G.G.
New Pinolith and Sterling Belt Buckle,
20, 08-15
Pectolite & Pearl Pendant, 40, 11-15
Serpentile Chrysotile Pendant with
Rhodochrosite, 20, 01/02-16
Cold Connect
with a tap and die set
and more ...
AS SEEN IN COOL TOOLS
& HIP TIPS PAGE 18
1947
194
47
MAY/
MAY/JUN
MAY/JU
MAY/J
MAY/JUNE
/J
201
2015
011
Crreate
C
eate
ea
t
yyoour
ur own
w
WOOD
WO
WOOD
OD,,
WIIRE
W
WIRE
RE +
PEAR
PE
ARL
L
PIIN
P
And find our ...
EXCL
EXC
XC USIV
USIV
SIVE
S VE
WIRE
WIR
IRE L
LOV
LO
OV
O
VE
ERS
RS
COLL
CO
OLLECTI
ECTI
ECTION
ECT
CTION
O
Kate
Kate
t Furma
Furm
r
ns
s
Growth
owt
owth
wth
h Rin
R g
Wooden
Wood
W
ooden
oode
oden
d n Bro
ooch
oc
PAGE
AGE
GE 56
6
JARVIS, LINDSAY
What Do You Know, 50, 03-16
PLUS:
QT
he
LEEDS, JOHN
Whimsical Carved Skull Jewelry, 28,
09/10-15
LEHNDORFF, BETSY
Climbing What Earrings, 30, 03-16
How to Develop a Line: Production
Earrings, 26, 07-15
Picture Perfect Heads or Tails Pendant,
48, 12-15
Saw Pierced Fern Leaf Cuff, 48, 11-15
McCARTHY, CATHLEEN
Facebook Insights: Boost Your
Following, 10, 04-15
Get Ready for Proposal Season, 12, 12-15
Give Em Credit, 10, 01/02-16
Lessons from the Fall, 12, 09/10-15
Maker, Muse, & Pioneer, 42, 08-15
New Ideas for Social Media Marketing,
10, 07-15
Online Etiquette, 10, 11-15
Strategize Your Social Media, 10, 03-16
Stylized Nature, 18, 03-16
Winning Contest Strategy, A, 10, 08-15
Work Local, Market Global, 10, 05/06-15
MELE, AZUR
Easy Jewelry Photography, 56, 07-15
MORNICK, ARLENE
Metal Clay Double Spinner Ring, 42,
04-15
Metal Clay Hinged Locket, 40, 01/02-16
Moving Metal Clay Ring, 48, 04-15
NATHANSON, LAUREL
Resin and Silver Earrings, 32, 07-15
Tasseled Collar, A, 26, 04-15
Tubular Transformation, 42, 05/06-15
UPDATED
CUSHION CUT:
HALAS, ROGER
Alien vs. Predator Ear Cuff, 46, 09/10-15
Cybernetic Barrette, 46, 03-16
Mystical Moonstone Ring, 30, 12-15
PERKINS, JIM
How to Tumble Stones, 26, 05/06-15
Megans Wedding Stone, 14, 12-15
Star Trek Trillion, 40, 03-16
THOMPSON, SARAH
Ruled Wire Woven Pendant, 24, 03-16
THOMPSON, SHARON ELAINE
Artisan Jewelers Who Love Plastic, 54,
12-15
Candelaria Turquoise, 18, 04-15
Carnelian and Black Onyx, 09/10-15
Chrysotile & Serpentine, 18, 01/02-16
Fossilized Red Oak, 18, 07-15
Larimar, 38, 11-15
Memento Rocks, 18, 05/06-15
Moonstone, 28, 12-15
Other Tourmalines, The, 38, 03-16
Pinolith, 18, 08-15
Research Your Market, 56, 08-15
Starting Your Jewelry Business, 34,
05/06-15
Texture with Hammers, Punches, and
Gravers, 18, 11-15
Whats the Best Class Youve Ever
Taken, 54, 04-15
YONICK, DEBORAH
All in the Details, 30, 01/02-16
Best Thing in Diamonds, 36, 04-15
Get Smart, 42, 03-16
Getting an Earful, 42, 09/10-15
Head Dressing, 28, 08-15
Lunatic Fringe, 26, 11-15
Mantras in Mosaics, 46, 05/06-15
Opal Essence, 26, 07-15
Spring 2016 Colors, 44, 12-15
YOVOVICH, NOL
Designing with Paper Clay, 54, 11-15
Memento Jewelry, 20, 05/06-15
67
Make
Metal Clay
Findings
for Pins
and Pendants
How to
C o lo r
Ti t a n i u m
for Jewelry
wi
with
th N
No
o
o
ll Y
Yo
ovo
vov
ovi
vic
vich
ch
CLASSIFIEDS
RATES AND INSTRUCTIONS:
MONTANA
Minimum 25 words. $2.50 per word for onetime insertions. Bold ad with frame $12.50
extra per insertion; Gold highlight extra $20
per insertion. Payment required by closing
for first-time and international advertisers.
Visa & MasterCard accepted. Call
Stephanie Griess at 970-613-4630, or e-mail:
sgriess@interweave.com. Closing Date: 60
days ahead of issue. Late copy will be run
in next issue unless otherwise instructed.
Visit us on the web at:
www.jewelrymakingdaily.com.
GEMS, FINISHED
MASCOTGEMS.COM buy online precious
and semiprecious gemstones. For Exclusive
deals on Blue Sapphire, Ruby and Emeralds
please contact mascotgems@outlook.com.
PRICE LIST FREE. Lots of Old Stock at
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In Lapidary Journal Since 1972. Buy From
Expert Old Timer Dealer. Most Varieties
of Gemstones at Lowest Wholesale Prices.
Rough and Cut Loose Gems. jimsstones@
aol.com, (330) 453-4628, Jims Gemology, 1322 Harrisburg Rd. NE, Canton, Ohio
44705-1851.
l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
70
11295 Hwy. 16
Savage, MT 59262
Ph. (406) 798-3624
Email: harmons@harmons.net
Website: www.harmons.net
For all your wants and needs in Montana
AGATE rough, slabs, cabs, freeform carvings, handcrafted jewelry, specimens and
books on Montana Agate. Check out our
e-store at www.harmons.net.
NEW HAMPSHIRE
SHOWS
PATUXENT LAPIDARY GUILD is holding our Annual Jewelry, Gem, and Mineral
show April 16th 2016, from 10am to 5pm, at
Earleigh Heights Volunteer Fire Company,
Severna Park MD 21146. Fossils, minerals,
jewelry, cabochons and a childrens corner.
Admission $2.00, under 10 free. Join us for a
great family day!
ARIZONA
OREGON
Azillion Beads
910 Harriman St., #100
Bend, OR 97701
Ph. (541) 617-8854
TURQUOISE
Email azillionbeads@gmail.com.
Website: www.azillionbeads.net
KANSAS
MICHIGAN
The Creative Fringe
210 Washington
Grand Haven, MI 49417
Ph. (606) 296-0020
Website: www.thecreativefringe.com
Were a full-service bead shop offering an
extensive collection of beads, findings, wire,
tools, books, lampworking, silver clay, sheet
metal and metalsmithing supplies. Cultivate
your creative side with classes and parties.
Open workstations available. Come to the
Fringe! Your creativity awaits you. Open 7
days a week.
ADVERTISERS' INDEX
SINCE
1947
Aeaducation......................................................55
C. G. M. Inc. ................................................. 36,37
Contenti Company ........................................... 1
Cool Tools ............................................................ 7
Craftoptics..........................................................13
FREE CATALOG
Diamond Pacific................................................ 3
Evenheat..............................................................71
Fire Mountain Gems ....................................C3
Gem & Lapidary Wholesalers Inc.......... 63
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1HFNODFH.LWV 3DWWHUQV
J-KIT
6XSSOLHVIRU
%HDGLQJ)LEHU$UWV
%DVNHWZHDYLQJ (PEHOOLVKLQJ
5R\DOZRRG/WG
Interweave ...............12,29,57,58,59,63,68,71
_s
67:RRGYLOOH5G
0DQVILHOG2K
ZZZ5R\DOZRRG/WGFRP
OEsO
AT YOUR DEALER
18116 Mtka Blvd., Wayzata, MN 55391
Tel: 952-404-2626
Fax: 952-474-4636
Royalwood, LTD...............................................71
Shake Rag Alley ..............................................55
SNAG ..................................................................55
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PO Box 1513 LJ
Auburn, WA 98071-1513
Phone: 253.833.2760
FAX: 253.833.1418
email: pioneergem@seanet.com
www.pioneergem.com
i
The new, improved
Paragon SC-2 Pro fires
glass and silver clay and
anneals beads
Paragons SC-2 Pro also fires
enameling and decals. Sleek
stainless steel door and 9 handle; silent operation. Optional
bead door and glass window
available. Fires rapidly up to
2000F on 120 volts. Includes top
vent hole and plug. 8 wide, 7
deep, 5 high interior. Precision
electronic controller. Included are 2 printed instruction
manuals totaling 44 pages. Kiln ships by UPS. Made in
USA. Certified by TUV to CSA and UL safety standards.
Call or email for a free catalog.
Paragon Industries, L.P. / 2011 S. Town East
Mesquite, Texas 75149 / 800-876-4328
info@paragonweb.com www.paragonweb.com
March 2016
71
Cynthia Eid
Cresting Bracelet
Argentium Sterling and 22K gold
l apidary jou rn a l
J e w el ry a rt is t
DOERS PROFILE
l a pida ry jo u r n a l ) ( J e w e l ry a rt i s t
Cynthia Eid
72
DONE
DOING
LATEST VENTURE
FIRST PIECE
e of
See the Full Lin
roducts Online
P
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ingems.com
www.firemounta
www.firemountaingems.com
One Fire Mountain Way, DEPT C020 Grants Pass,
OR 97526-2373 1-800-355-2137
Fire Mountain
Gems and
Beads 2016
Karen Suarez, VA
karensuarezjewelry.weebly.com
Finalist, 2015 Metals JewelryMaking Contest
Color is King.
(hypoallergenic & tarnish-resistant, too!)