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If using the tiled plans then tape the sheets carefully together making sure that they
line up perfectly. Once I had the plan assembled I cut the plan down into smaller
areas (ie. Wing, tailplane, fus etc) and used double-sided tape to temporarily stick
them to the EPP sheets so that they didnt move while I cut parts out. Most of the
cuts can be made using a straightedge (ruler) and the more accurate the cuts are to
90, the easier it will be to build nice and straight.
For parts that needed producing in multiples (ie. Wings, fuselage sides and formers)
I was able to remove the paper from the cut parts, leaving the double-sided tape
attached to the paper, and then re-use the templates again.
Once all the parts are cut I recommend doing a test fit as seen below to make sure
that all the pieces fit in their respective slots. Any slots that need enlarging are
better done now rather than when covered in glue!
Notes:
The plans are drawn assuming 9mm EPP is used for the centre cabane, although 2
pieces of 5 or 6mm could be used instead. I cut the servo holes at this point
however, plans are drawn assuming a Hitec HS-55 is used for ailerons and 2x Blue
Bird 306s are used for rudder/elevator.
Attached Thumbnails
Parts cut from plans 52.6 KB Views: 2046
Next, the trailing edges of the wings, horizontal and vertical stabs need the bevels
cut/sanded to 45. I used a steel rule and the edge of my cutting mat as guides and
cut the bevels using a sharp blade. While I was in bevel mode I also cut the bevels
on the rudder, elevator and ailerons.
The carbon fibre can now be glued to the areas shown in the photo below. 0.5mm x
3mm strip was used for all areas except the centre cabane. I applied contact
The two firewall pieces were next glued together. Once dry, the top and bottom of
the firewall were bevelled using the top and bottom spacers to work out the angles.
The firewall was glued to the fus side with approximately 3 of down and right thrust
built in. The centre crutch was then trimmed to match the angle of the firewall and
glued in position from the firewall until it begins to taper.
Once dry, the nose was supported and the rear end of the crutch was glued into
place as shown below.
Attached Thumbnails
Centre crutch and firewall glued at front - top view 35.7 KB Views: 1544
Centre crutch and firewall glued at front - bottom view 85.5 KB Views: 1304
The top of the fus and upper former can now be glued in, taking care to make sure
everything stays nice and straight. Make sure to put some glue around the sides of
the cabane cutout, I nearly forgot! This also helps the top of the fus keep its shape
while drying.
Once dry, the nose can be supported again and the rear former and servo tray can
be fitted. Both the tray and the former were trimmed to size (using the centre crutch
as a guide) before gluing. You may want to position the servo tray further forward if
you are using heavier servos to keep the weight forwards. The further forward the
servos are however, the harder they will be to access once the wings are fitted.
Attached Thumbnails
Top front spacer, upper former and cabane fitted 78.1 KB Views: 1418
Step 5 Make and Fit Motor Mount and Install Radio Gear
I made a motor mount from a piece of fibreglass printed circuit board (lightweight
ply would be a good alternative). Before glueing to the firewall I drilled holes for the
motor shaft, wires and mounting screws. Matching holes for the shaft and wires were
made in the EPP firewall.
To avoid using servo extension leads I mounted the gear as shown in the photos
below. The rx was fixed to the centre crutch using velcro (the velcro in contact with
the EPP was sprayed with 3M 77 to ensure it had a strong bond). This allows me to
change the xtal in the rx without too much trouble.
I prefer using a velcro strap to secure my lipos, so I added pieces of strapping tape
to both sides of the centre crutch (to avoid the foam tearing on heavy impacts!) and
cut slots so that I could loop a strap over the cf. I sandwiched the esc wires between
a piece of spare EPP to keep them out of the way and provide a solid base for the
lipo to lie on. This also keeps the weight of the lipo as close to the thrust line as
possible.
Motor mount glued to firewall and motor installed 87.3 KB Views: 1569
The second fuselage side can now be glued in place. I found it best to work from the
back of the fus to make sure the horizontal stab slots lined up and work my way to
the front.
While the glue dried I used Blenderm tape to hinge the ailerons, elevator and rudder
using the standard shockie method. Prior to hinging the ailerons I cut the holes for
the aileron control rods to make sure the holes in the connected ailerons would be in
line with each other. (see step 12 for more details)
Attached Thumbnails
The top of the fuselage can now be completed. I started by gluing the edges of the
canopy and the edges of the top of the fuselage that needed joining. Once the glue
was tacky I fitted the canopy piece starting from the front and worked my way back
to the tail ensuring that the fuselage stayed straight. I then pinned the top of the fus
in several places to hold everything in place while the glue dried.
Once dry, the horizontal stab/elevator and vertical stab/rudder can be glued in place.
Test fit and trim/sand the slot and top of the fuselage if necessary to help keep
things square. Again, pin as required while the glue dries.
Attached Thumbnails
Side view 65.8 KB Views: 1490
I used Du-bro micro horns and light ply for the control horns (matching the control
rods). The ply had a small hole drilled in it to allow the barb of the horn to pass
through and pierce the foam. The horns and ply were glued together using epoxy
and positioned inline with the previously installed pushrods. I added a blob of glue to
the tip of the barb on the opposite side of the control surface to further secure the
horns.
The aileron horns were positioned on a slight angle so that they were lined up with
the aileron servo. It is a good idea to fit the aileron servo at this point and connect it
to the rx while you have easier access. I did not glue the servo in at this point
however, so that it could be removed and placed inside the lipo bay, allowing the
fuselage to sit flat for fitting the upper wing.
The landing gear was made by sandwiching 2x 2mm diameter carbon rods between
the two remaining formers. I made grooves in the formers using a soldering iron and
then glued in the carbon. The two formers were then glued together and left to dry
with a weight compressing the two halves.
The axles were made from piano wire bent to shape as shown below. This allows the
spats to be glued to the axle to add that finishing touch. The axles were then glued
with epoxy and bound with to the cf rods. Notice the notch cut in the top of the
formers to allow the esc wires to pass through.
Attached Thumbnails
I next connected the pushrods and routed the aerial wire through the rear former
and out the rear of the fuselage just above the tail skid. If you are confident that you
will not need access to the rear servos or rx, then the bottom of the fuselage can
now be glued in.
I opted to add an access hatch below the servos. I added some extra pieces of 3mm
EPP to the sides of the fuselage and cut the bottom rear spacer to create a hatch
similar to the lipo bay hatch at the front.
The bottom rear spacer was then glued in place. The hatch was secured with
strapping tape at the narrowest point and velcro was used at the other end to hold
the hatch closed.
1450
Control rods connected, aerial secured and bottom glued in position 45.9 KB
Views: 1211
Landing gear, front spacer and lipo bay sides installed 45.7 KB Views: 1439
The upper and lower ailerons were linked using 1.5mm diameter cf rods. To secure
each end of the rods you need 4x 1 lengths of rigid plastic tube with an inside
diameter of 1.5mm. I found that the ink tubes from ballpoint pens were perfect! I
made a hole near the end of each tube using a pin and then used the offcuts from
the Du-Bro pushrods to pin each tube into the four holes in the ailerons. The four
pins were glued into the ailerons, taking care not to get any glue around the tubes so
that they could easily pivot on the pins. The carbon rods were then cut to fit (leaving
them slightly short so that they could be adjusted in the tubes). Once I was happy
that each pair of ailerons were level with the wings I glued the carbon into the tubes.
The wing braces were made from 2mm diameter cf rods. I used a length of pushrod
wire I had left over from the ailerons and inserted it through the lower wing at about
45 just behind the aileron servo. The thin wire was pushed through the foam
towards the outer strut. This was done a couple of times until I got the correct angle
so that the wire lined up with the point where the outer strut joined the upper wing.
Because very thin wire (pushrod) was used, only tiny pinholes were left where the
wire had pierced the foam. The tiny holes and tunnels that the wire made were
enough to be able to guide the cf rod on the correct angle first time. The photos
below give you an idea of where the cf rods exited through the sides of the fuselage
to create the perfect angle. The first brace was glued in place and then the same
procedure was carried out for the opposite brace.
Attached Thumbnails
Bottom aileron control linkage 74.7 KB Views: 1524
Many of the latest indoor pattern and freestyle planes use fixed airbrakes. These are
used to slow the downline speed of the model so that it is easier to perform
manoeuvres keeping a constant speed. Flash has experimented with various brake
ideas on the Infineon, the most effective being 40mm wide strips of 5mm EPP
attached to the rear of the outer struts. I bevelled the top and bottom edges of the
brakes so that they followed the curve of the outer struts and fitted flush against
both wings. If intending to fly the model outdoors then it is probably better to leave
the brakes off initially, they add drag and reduce the forward speed of the model
significantly if flown in breezy conditions.
I designed the decals in the photo below to add a bit of character to the model
without adding too much weight. The decals were inkjet printed onto 5 sheets of
11x17 waterslide transfer paper and then attached to the model using 3M77
adhesive. For detailed instructions see my mini how-to thread here :
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=582939
As the majority of people don't have A3 printers I have produced pdf's for the
Infineon and Mini Infineon suitable for Letter sized transfer paper. These are in a
tiled format and I recommend you print them on normal paper first to check they fit
your model. Once you have confirmed that they are the correct size then print them
onto transfer paper one page at a time to avoid paper jams. The pdf's can also be