COMPLETE GUIDE TO ROOM AND CENTRAL AIR CONDITIONERS

The right air conditioner can keep costs down as the mercury rises
Last updated: July 2015

Window air conditioners

ductless solution

| Portable air conditioners

| Central air conditioning

| The split

| Keep cool and save

Air Conditioners

With temperatures rising, one things for certain: your utility bill will, too. Nows a good time, before
the thermometer hits triple digits, to assess your cooling needs for the summer. At the very least you
should check and clean your equipment, whether you cool your home with central air, room air
conditioners, or good, old-fashioned ceiling fans.
If youre replacing an old room or central air conditioner, the choices on the market today are likely to

be more energy efficient than what you have. But dont buy too little or too muchgetting a cooling
system that is the wrong size is the most common mistake people make, regardless of the type.
Underestimate your cooling needs and you could be hot and sticky and still increase your electric bills.
Buy more capacity than you need and you may wind up with a cool, damp space.
To keep your cool, get the best performing and most reliable equipment. Consumer Reports has new
Ratings of window air conditioners, and this year we talked to 34,000 readers about the reliability of
their central air conditioning systems. We learned what made readers hot under the collar and which
systems cooled when called upon. During our research and testing, we discovered which units to buy
and which to avoid.
Top-rated window air conditioners

Although more and more homes have central air conditioning, about 6.5 million window units are sold
each year. Our latest tests of small, medium, and large window air conditioners found that all were
excellent at cooling. What distinguished the best from the rest was quiet operation, convenient
controls, and whether they kept working under brownout conditions. All of our top picks exceed
federal Energy Star standards and use at least 10 percent less energy than conventional models.
Those energy-savers often include other features, such as timers, digital displays, remote controls,
and directional vents, which coax the most comfort from the machine.
How to choose a room A/C
Before going to the store, determine the size of the space you need to cool and where youll place the
unit. An air conditioner that's too small won't cool the room. One that's too big will cool so quickly
that it wont have time to remove enough moisture, leaving your room cold and clammy.
Get the right size. When calculating the size of the air conditioner you'll need, take into account not
only the size of the room to be cooled but whether the unit will be placed in a window that gets
shade or direct sunlight, the height of the ceilings, and even the part of the country where you live.
The Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers has a worksheet on its website that will help you
make the right determination. All you need to get started is a tape measure, a scratch pad, and a
calculator.
Assess the airflow. Air conditioners generally do a better job blowing air in one direction than the
other. To uniformly cool a room, you'll need to ensure that air is distributed throughout. When the
window air conditioner is located near a corner, it must be able to direct air to the center, so check
whether your air conditioner needs to blow air to the right or to the left.

How quiet? If the unit is going to be placed in a bedroom or another quiet area, check our Ratings
for noise. Models that scored excellent or very good in our noise tests are so quiet that the only
sound you might hear is the fan running. But air conditioners that scored fair or worse for noise could
disturb light sleepers when set on low and are distracting on high.
Our latest tests of almost three dozen room air conditioners include an $580 model that cools
superbly and quietly, and even comes in colors that match the drapes. But you dont have to spend a
lot to cool down as the mercury climbs; other top performers start at $160.
Installation
If youre planning to install the air conditioner yourself, consider buying one with a slide-out chassis.
That way you can attach the cabinet and adjustable side curtains to the window before sliding in the
heavy working parts of the machine. One person can do it, but its easier with two.
Check the electricity. Before installing an air conditioner, be sure that the electrical circuit to the
room can handle the electrical load of the unit. Read the owner's manual; larger models usually need
a dedicated circuit. Never use an extension cord with an air conditioner.
Secure the unit. Always use the manufacturer's safety hardware, such as sash locks and mounting
brackets. Unless the manufacturer's directions say otherwise, the window air conditioner should be
level from left to right and pitched slightly toward the outdoors so water that condenses on the
evaporator drains properly to the rear of the unit and doesn't leak into the home. Seal around the
perimeter of the unit with new weatherstripping.
Maintenance
A clean machine will keep you cool and cost less to run. Plan on a thorough cleaning before and after
the cooling season and regular filter checks during the season.
Clean or replace dirty filters. Youll need to clean the filter regularly. Depending on how much
time the unit is actually operating and how clean the air is, cleaning may be needed every few weeks
to monthly during the cooling season. With that in mind, make sure you determine how easy it is to
remove the filter when selecting a new unitsome are trickier than others. Remove debris with a
vacuum then wash the filter in warm, soapy water; be sure filters are dry before you reinstall them.
Replace damaged filters.
Vacuum coils and fins. When the filter is removed for cleaning, it's also a good time to check the
surface of the evaporator coil, which will now be visible. If there is dust or debris on the surface,
gently remove it. Taking care not to deform the soft fins, use an upholstery-brush attachment to
vacuum the coils. If your unit has a slide-out chassis, you will usually have good access to the
condenser coil when the chassis is removed from the cabinet. That's a good time to inspect and clean
any debris off that coil.
Seal the perimeter. Be sure to seal any air leaks around the unit.
Avoid "short cycling. Though most models with electronic controls now have built-in timers to
prevent the unit from restarting immediately after shut-down, those with the old-style mechanical
controls may not. Wait 5 minutes after shutting off the unit to restart it. That allows pressure in the
refrigeration system to equalize, avoiding stress on the compressor.

The pros and cons of portable air conditioners

If your room has only one window or if window units arent allowed in your building, a portable air
conditioner might seem like an ideal solution. But our latest tests found that portables arent as good
at cooling as manufacturers claim. Plus theyre pricey and use more energy than similarly sized
window units. And because all the mechanical parts are sitting in the room, they can be noisy.
Even portable models with dual hoses, which vent through a window, didnt impress in our tests. One
hose brings air in from the outside to cool the condenser, and the other hose directs heated and
moisture-laden air back outside. Dual-hose units did a slightly better job cooling off our test chamber
than the single-hose models we tested, but their performance fell far short of similarly sized window
units.
If a portable is your only option, choose a dual-hose model. But in our tests, even those models
produced less cooling than they claimed and didnt cool the room to our required temperature. And
rolling 85-pound portables around on carpeting isnt for weaklings.
The most reliable central air conditioning

Consumer Reports asked 34,000 readers about central air conditioning systems purchased between
2007 and mid-2013. Based on their experiences, you may want to give three brands the cold
shoulder. All logged the most repairs in our latest reliability surveys. The good news: Choosing one of
the more reliable brands can boost the odds that youll keep comfortable.
How to choose central air
Adding a central cooling system to your home can be relatively straightforward if you already have
ductwork. But not all ductwork is equal, and duct systems that were originally designed for a heating
system may not be able to handle the air volume required by a cooling system. Another obstacle can
be the placement of supply registers. Systems originally designed only for heating might have
registers placed in the floor or located low on the wallsgood locations for heating but not the best

choice for cooling. The less obvious issue is the amount of air being provided to each room, which
really determines the amount of heating or cooling being supplied. For example, some rooms may
actually require additional supply outlets in order to deliver the necessary cool air in summer, which
would likely make them too warm in the winter.
Your contractor should use a duct-sizing method such as the Air Conditioning Contractors of America
(ACCA) Manual D to make sure that the main plenums and all the supply ducts are adequately sized
and properly constructed. Further, the system must have the proper number and location of supply
registers to deliver sufficient air to the right spots. Leaky or uninsulated ducts can reduce system
efficiency considerably. In fact, one of the most beneficial improvements to a ducted system is to
have it properly sealed and insulated. If your home doesnt have ducts, adding them can be
expensive and messy, though that is the best option when cooling an entire home.
When replacing or upgrading a central air system, dont automatically buy the same-sized system.
Any changes youve made to improve your homes energy efficiency, such as replacing windows or
adding insulation, can reduce your cooling needs. On the other hand, if youve added rooms, you
might need more cooling.
Have your contractor do a load calculation based on a recognized method, such as Manual J from the
ACCA. The contractors evaluation should include whether the ducts need to be resized, sealed, and
insulated, or replaced. Remember that an indoor evaporator coil and an outdoor condenser must be a
matched set, or the performance, efficiency, and capacity claims might not be accurate. After the
required cooling capacity has been determined, focus on installation.

Installation
Replacing central air conditioning equipment, especially components that are more than 15 years old,
can result in energy savings. And if you choose an Energy Star qualified model, you can save even
morebut savings will only be realized when a new matched system is correctly installed. A matched
system is one in which the indoor evaporator or fan coil and the outdoor condensing unit were meant
to be installed togetherthe manufacturer considers the two components a system with its own
unique efficiency rating. If you allow a contractor to install an unmatched set, your home has
essentially become a test site and your contractor is the system designer. Though the system may
function, it's unlikely to deliver the claimed efficiency that was based on a matched set.
Beyond the cooling hardware, there are other important issues that a good contractor will address in
the installation. Under- or overcharging the refrigerant on even a matched indoor/outdoor split
system can cause a loss of capacity, efficiency, or both, so proper system charging is critical.

Likewise, the proper amount of airflow across the indoor coil (evaporator) is critical for proper
operation. Finally, if the air is allowed to leak from supply or return ducts, those leaks will have a
significant impact on the operating efficiency and costs. So ensuring that system ducts are properly
sealed and insulated is one of the most important improvements you can make.
Finding the right contractor is often a challenge. North American Technician Excellence (NATE) offers
a certification program for contractors focusing on specific skill areas. Contractors who participate in
that voluntary program differentiate themselves from their competitors. You can also find an installer
at contractor associations such as the Air Conditioning Contractors of America. Energy Star follows
the ACCA guidelines and recommends the following:
Size the unit properly. Installing equipment that is the correct size is essential for getting the best
performance. Bigger isn't always bettera system actually operates best when each component is
properly sized. Oversized equipment may cycle on and off more frequently, which can make the home
less comfortable and shorten the equipments life. Larger capacity cooling equipment requires greater
airflow. If the duct system was not sized for that flow, it can become noisy or restrict the flow,
causing performance or operational problems.
Seal ducts. Ducts circulate air from the central air conditioner or heat pump throughout the house.
The duct system is actually many individual pieces, meaning there are lots of seams and joints.
Without sealing, air escapes from those cracks, sending your heated or cooled air directly outdoors,
which is not a good use of your energy dollars. Sealing ducts can greatly improve the efficiency of
your system.
Optimize airflow. Every evaporator or fan coil is designed to have a specific amount of airflow to
meet its efficiency and capacity claims. A duct system that is too small can restrict airflow, which not
only negatively impacts efficiency and capacity but can cause operational problems as well. Too high
of an airflow is not good either, as it can mean a noisy system.
Check the refrigerant. It's important for a central air system to have the correct amount of
refrigerant, or correct refrigerant charge. An improperly charged system may consume more energy
and provide less cooling capacity.
Maintenance
One of the best ways to keep your air conditioner humming is to keep it clean. That means changing
the filters regularly and making sure that no debris accumulates around the outside unit. Heres some
guidance from our experts.
Call a pro. Have a licensed professional clean and flush the coils, drain pan, and drainage system;
vacuum the blower compartments; and check the refrigerant charge and mechanical components.
Seal and insulate ductwork. Make sure that ducts are sealed and insulated. Up to 40 percent of
cooling energy can be lost due to leaks or when uninsulated ducts pass through uncooled spaces
such as attics.
Conduct seasonal checks. Clear debris and keep vegetation at least 2 feet away from the outdoor
unit. Clean indoor grills and filters monthly.

Use a programmable thermostat. You can reduce cooling costs by up to 20 percent by

programming the thermostat to raise the temperature when youre at work and lower it when you
return home. Consider using a ceiling, table, or floor fan in occupied rooms so that you can set the
thermostat to a higher temperature. For every degree you raise the setpoint, you will save about 2
percent on your cooling costs. And remember, dont operate a fan in an unoccupied room. That just
wastes energy because the breeze doesnt cool the room, it cools people.
Split ductless a solution for some

If you live in an older home or one in which it would be difficult to install the ductwork for a central
air system, there is another alternative to getting window units. Split ductless systems are similar to
central air but need no ductwork. They have an outside condenser and one to four indoor units with
blowers mounted high on the wall. Tubing connects the parts and circulates refrigerant. The tubing,
along with an electric and drain line, is usually run through a 3-inch hole hidden behind the indoor
unit. Each indoor unit cools the room in which its installed and has its own remote control.
The systems we tested in the past had a single indoor unit, did an excellent cooling job, and were
much quieter than window air conditioners. When they were set on low, they were barely audible.
The systems were about 12,000 Btu/hr., enough to cool roughly 650 square feet, and handled
brownouts with ease. And they all used an eco-friendly refrigerant.
Split ductless systems are more expensive than window air conditioners, and professional installation
is recommended, but its a way to add cooling without tearing up walls to install ducts. A drawback is
the large indoor unit (evaporator and fan) that must be mounted on the wall in the room being
cooled. The systems can be a good choice when you're only cooling a few rooms. But if you plan to
cool many rooms, the cost can increase significantly, often making a ducted system the better choice.
Run the A/C without running up your bills

The average home spends almost 20 percent of its utility bill on cooling, according to Energy Star.
But there are ways to save even on hot summer days. A good strategy may be to use air conditioning
and ceiling fans in concert. Instead of setting the air conditioner at 74 F to 76 F, raise the
temperature to 78 F and let the fans do the rest. Each degree you lower the thermostat increases
cooling costs by 2 percent. Here are some simple moves you can make that are recommended by our
experts and the Environmental Protection Agency.
Switch to energy-saving lightbulbs. Less than 10 percent of the energy used by an incandescent
bulb produces light; the rest escapes as heat. Thats one reason energy-wasting bulbs are being
phased out. Energy Star qualified lighting not only uses less energy but also produces less heat,
reducing your cooling costs.
Set the thermostat. Use a programmable thermostat or the timer on a window unit to program
cooling around your schedule. Avoid cooling an empty house by setting the thermostat a few degrees
higher when no one is home and timing your window unit to go on an hour or so before you arrive.
Use ceiling fans. Run the ceiling fan to create a cool breeze. If you raise the thermostat five
degrees and use a ceiling fan, you can lower cooling costs by around 10 percent. Remember that a
ceiling fan cools you, not the room, so turn it off when you go into another room.
Pull the shades. Close the curtains and shades before you leave home to keep the suns rays from
overheating the interior. If you dont have natural shade, move container trees and plants in front of
sun-exposed windows.
Reduce oven time. Use a microwave instead of an oven to cook when you can. Ovens take longer
to cook food and add heat to your home, working at odds with your air conditioning system. If you
have a gas grill outside, consider using that.
Check air conditioner filters. Check your cooling systems air filter every month. If the filter looks
dirty, change it. A dirty filter will slow airflow and make the system work harder.
Plug leaky ducts. As much as 40 percent of your heating and cooling energy can be lost due to
leaks and lack of insulation. Seal ductwork using mastic sealant or metal tape and insulate all the
ducts that you can access (such as those in attics, crawl spaces, unfinished basements, and garages).
Also make sure that connections at vents and registers are well sealed where they meet floors, walls,
and ceilings. Those are common places to find leaks and disconnected ductwork.
Work with your utility company. Many utility companies offer rebates to homeowners who
upgrade their cooling systems with energy-efficient equipment. Some also offer homeowners free
programmable thermostats or discounts and rebates to use an outdoor digital cycling unit (DCU) that
talks to the utility via radio signals. When the electrical grid gets stressed during heat waves, the
utility cycles your central air conditioners compressor on and off to decrease demand. Your home
may get a little warmer, but its better than a blackout.

Mary H.J. Farrell

Air conditioners

Air Conditioner Buying Guide

Overview

Ratings & Reliability

Recommended

Buying Guide

Air Conditioner Buying Guide

Keeping Your Cool
Last updated: September 2016
When the weather heats up, thoughts turn to chilling out. If central air conditioning isnt an option,
room air conditioners can be an inexpensive and energy-efficient alternative for cooling one or two
rooms.
If youre ready to beat the heat, you arent alone: More than 6.5 million air conditioner window units
are sold each year. The average household spends 13 percent of its annual utility bill on cooling,
according to Energy Star. So its important to choose the right unit. An air conditioner that's too small
won't do a good job cooling a room. One that's too big cools so quickly that it doesn't have time to
remove enough moisture, leaving you with a cold, clammy space.
1
Things to Consider
Note the Noise
Models that scored excellent or very good in our noise tests are so quiet that the only sound you
might hear is the fan running. Air conditioners that scored fair for noise could disturb light sleepers
when set on low, and are distracting to all when set on high.
Factor in the Window Location
Window air conditioners generally do a better job blowing air in one direction. That can be a problem
if your window isn't centered on the wall. To uniformly cool a room, you'll need to direct air to its
center, so check whether your A/C needs to blow air to the right or to the left. Some have fan arms
that swivel.
Install it Correctly
To get the most from your window air conditioner it must be properly installed. Most units are
intended for double-hung windows. If you have casement windows, you may want to consider a
through-the-wall air conditioner. Make sure your window unit is level so it drains correctly. And move
any heat-generating devices such as a TV or lamp away from the unit.
Check Filter Location
Make sure you can easily access the filter for cleaning, something you'll be doing frequently to keep
the unit in tip-top condition.
Intelligent Cooling
Some air conditioners have gotten smarter, allowing you to control and adjust them from your
smartphone. You can often interconnect them to other cooling units in your home.

Watch the Warranty

Some air conditioners have longer warranties. When you're buying a new unit, check the
manufacturer's website for information and ask the retailer about the warranty for that model and
brand.
Get the Best Air Conditioner for Your Needs
2
Sizing Up Your Options
Before you consider price and features, start by determining the size of unit you need for the space
you want to cool, as well as where youll place the unit. Window air conditioners have cooling
capacities ranging from 5,000 to 12,500 British thermal units (Btu).
As a rule, an air conditioner needs 20 Btu for each square foot of living space. To measure your
room, multiply the length of the room by the width. But don't buy by Btu alone. Energy Star
recommends you make allowance for other considerationssuch as the height of your ceiling, where
the unit will be placed, and the size of your windows and doorways.
If the room is heavily shaded, reduce capacity by 10 percent.
If the room is extra sunny, increase capacity by 10 percent.
If more than two people regularly occupy the room, add 600 Btu for each additional person.
If the unit is used in a kitchen, increase capacity by 4,000 Btu.
Get more Consumer Reports information on how to beat the heat here.

Illustration: Brown Bird Design

Find The Top-Rated Air Conditioners Here
3
Which Model is Right for You?

Some small window units cost less than $200, which makes them a tempting propositionbut only if
you need to cool a very small space. If you need to cool a larger area, youll want to focus your
search on units that better match your square footage.
Nearly all the window units we tested meet the latest Energy Star standards, which require them to
use 15 percent less energy than units without that certification. Standout models had quiet operation,
convenient controls, and worked under brownout conditions. Check our Air Conditioner Ratings to see
to how they stacked up.

Window ACs
SmallCapacity ranges from 5,000 to 6,500 Btu/hr. Cools roughly 100 to 300 square feet. These
units are the smallest, lightest, and least expensive, but they cant adequately cool a room measuring
more than 300 square feet.
Cost: $100-200.
MediumCapacity ranges from 7,000 to 8,200 Btu/hr. Cools roughly 250 to 400 square feet. Prices
start creeping up, and their size and weight can make them harder to install and remove for winter
storage.
Cost: $200-300.
LargeCapacity ranges from 9,800 to 12,500 Btu/hr. Cools between 350-650 square feet. Best for
cooling a large room, but the bulk and weight make these models awkward and difficult to install.
Cost: $300-400.
Window Air Condioner Ratings

Portable ACs
Portable air conditioners are intended for homes in which window configurations or building
regulations prevent installation of window units. The portable air conditioners in our tests range from
5,000 to 15,500 Btu. But don't compare portable and window air conditioners by that measurement
alone.
Our latest tests found that portables arent as good at cooling as manufacturers claim. Plus, theyre
pricey and use more energy than similarly sized window units. They tend to be noisier than windowmounted units. And while technically portable, their 50- to 80-pound weight can make them
cumbersome and ungainly to roll across carpets or thresholds.
Cost: $300-600.
Portable Air Conditioner Ratings

Split Ductless ACs

Split ductless is a smart way to add air conditioning to a limited number of rooms without having to
open up walls to install ductworkas you would with a central-air systemor install and remove
multiple window units each year. In our past tests, all did an excellent job cooling and were much
quieter indoors and out than window air conditioners. Indeed, on the low setting they were barely
audible.
Split ductless is more expensive than window or portable units (and professional installation is
recommended), but is less expensive than central air if you are cooling only a few rooms. However, if
you are looking to cool the majority of your home, a central-air-conditioning system is probably the
more cost-effective choice.
Cost: $1000 and up.
Consumer Reports' Air Conditioner Overview
4
Interactive Video Buying Guide
For more, watch our interactive buying guide below. You can skip to chapters based on your
interests, such as portable air conditioners, split ductless air conditioners, and other topics.
5
Smart Features to Help You Chill Out
All the units in our Air Conditioner Ratings do an excellent job of cooling. They also come with
convenient features like digital displays, built-in timers, and remote controls. Some units have
touchpad controls, and a few change the direction of the airflow automatically to better disperse cool
air throughout the room. Look for air conditioner features that affect performance and efficiency.

Controls
Touchpads with large LED displays, sizeable and uncrowded buttons, clear labeling, and digital
temperature readouts are easier to use. Poorly designed controls are a constant annoyance. Raised
buttons with different shapes let you identify functions by feel. And digital temperature readouts
provide a more precise reading than the traditional "warmer" and "cooler" settings.

Directional Airflow Vents

Air conditioners have louvers you can adjust to direct airflow vertically or horizontally. Some have
fans that oscillate. But most are better at directing air toward one side or the other. Consider your
room layout, and look for a model that can direct the airflow where you need it.

Efficiency Aids
An air conditioner with a timer can be turned off when you're out or set to turn on just before you
expect to get home. An energy-saver setting stops the fan when the compressor is off. These
features save energy.

Dehumidifying Mode
This feature is useful on humid but cool days in spring and fall.

Fresh-Air Intake or Exhaust Setting

This feature provides ventilation without cooling.

Timer
One common energy-saving feature is a 24-hour programmable timer, which allows you to customize
your units operating schedule.

Remote Control
A remote control allows you to adjust the settings from wherever youre sitting. Some units have
built-in temperature sensors to relay the rooms temperature (as opposed to the temperature to
which youve set the unit.)
Controls
Touchpads with large LED displays, sizeable and uncrowded buttons, clear labeling, and digital
temperature readouts are easier to use. Poorly designed controls are a constant annoyance. Raised
buttons with different shapes let you identify functions by feel. And digital temperature readouts
provide a more precise reading than the traditional "warmer" and "cooler" settings.
Looking for a built-in air conditioner?
By Chris Barnes, Caitlin Welsh
Last updated: 20th September 2016
On a sticky summer day, there's nothing like waving a magic wand, er, remote control, and
transforming warm air into icy-cool air. Or indeed, the reverse: filling your home with comfy warm air
on a chilly winter's day. This wizardry can be achieved with the addition of an air conditioner, and this
guide will help you narrow down the options and find the best kind for your home.
For whole-house systems (ducted), see our buying guide.
If you're a renter, a portable air conditioner is probably your best bet, as there's no installation
and you can take it with you next time you move. See our portables buying guide for more.
Video: How to find the best air conditioner

<
See our test results and reviews of small air conditioners, medium air conditioners and large
air conditioners.
The big question: what kind of system do I want?
What even is split-system? Let's decode some technical terms:
A split-system: This type of air conditioner consists of a compressor unit that's installed
outside, and one or more indoor air outlets. They're usually used to cool one or more rooms,
or an open-plan area, of up to 60 square metres. Price range: $800$3000
Inverter technology: With conventional air conditioners, the compressor is either on
(working to 100% capacity) or off. Inverters can vary the compressor speed and maintain the
set temperature within a narrow range. They are generally more efficient and can cost less to
run, although a good conventional model can still be cost-effective.
Cooling-only or reverse-cycle: Reverse-cycle models don't cost much more than coolingonly models and can be used for heating in winter. While the purchase and installation costs
can be high, reverse-cycle air conditioners are actually among the cheapest and most
effective forms of heating for large spaces. They cause less carbon dioxide to be produced in
power plants burning fossil fuel than other kinds of electric heaters.
Wall/window: These models are usually installed in a window or external wall, and can cool
rooms and open-plan areas of up to 50 square metres. Smaller units can be plugged into a
normal power point; larger ones may require additional wiring. We don't currently include
these models in our tests, because there are fewer on the market now, as split-systems are
more efficient and have become more affordable in recent years. Price range: $300$1000.
Mounting the air-conditioning unit
Most split-systems are high wall models, where the indoor unit is mounted high on a wall so its air
flow can easily blow across the room, and the cool air will sink down and push the hot air up and
away. You can also find floor-mounted models, where the indoor unit is wall-mounted but at floor
level this might better suit some rooms, and could be a better option if you mainly use the unit for
heating, as the hot air will come out at your level and rise to the ceiling. Cassette models have the
indoor unit mounted in the ceiling. A few models can be mounted in either the ceiling or the floor.
OK, I've picked the system I want what about size?
It's important to accurately calculate the required cooling or heating capacity of your new air
conditioner.
Choose a model with equal or slightly greater capacity for the room, because:
Models too powerful for the room size may run frequent short cycles to achieve the target
temperature which is like tapping the accelerator in your car to maintain speed instead of
applying steady pressure. This can result in inadequate dehumidification (making the room
feel less comfortable), increased power usage, and wear and tear on the system.
Underpowered models may have to run more often at maximum output, dry the air too
much and you'll similarly suffer excessive wear.
Other things to consider

Do you live in a very hot or cold region?

Each model has a recommended outdoor temperature operating range. Most models
can operate in temperatures from about -10C up to about 45C or more. This is sufficient for
most parts of Australia, but check the air conditioner's operating range before you buy, to
make sure it can cope with any extremes in your area.
Frost may build up on the outdoor heat exchanger coils in winter if the air conditioner
doesn't have automatic de-icing and you live in a cold area.
If you live in a hot and dry climate, an evaporative cooler can be a cheaper alternative to
an air conditioner. Evaporative air coolers draw the hot air over a water reservoir. The water
evaporates, absorbing heat from the air. The cooler, moist air is then blown into the room.
Evaporative coolers are generally more suitable for areas with low humidity.
Noise
A noisy indoor unit may interfere with your activities, conversation or sleep, and most local
councils have noise restrictions relating to the use of air conditioners. Check local
regulations before buying, especially if the outdoor unit needs to be installed close to a
neighbour's house.
Features and functions
Fan speeds
The fan circulates cooled or heated air around the room. Look for a model with a wide airflow range
and multiple fan speeds: from very high, to help the room cool down quickly, to very low, so there's
less noise and no unpleasant draught once you have the right temperature.
Operating modes
Auto:Automatically chooses the mode required to keep the room at the chosen temperature.
Cool:Pumps heat from the inside to the outside.
Heat: Pumps heat from the outside to the inside.
Dry: Dehumidifies the air, while cooling only slightly.
Fan only: Blows air without heating, cooling or drying, which is useful when all you want is a
cooling breeze.
Human presence sensor
This detects whether someone is actually in the room, so that the unit knows to keep working. Some
models even direct the air movement towards the sensed person, so as to not use excess energy to
cool other sections.
Remote control
Look for large, well-spaced buttons and a big, easy-to-read LCD screen.
Sleep mode
This function adjusts, in steps, the temperature to a comfortable level for sleeping so the air
conditioner doesn't work as hard (and more quietly) when you're sleeping.
Adjustable or oscillating louvres

Point them up for cool air and down for warm. This can be done via the remote for most models. Left
and right adjustability helps direct air where it's particularly needed.
Restart delay
A protective feature that prevents the air conditioner from starting up again too soon after being
switched off.
How do I keep my energy costs down?
Star gazing
Once you've worked out what capacity you need, compare the star ratings of models of similar
capacity. The more stars, the lower the running costs and greenhouse gas emissions. Note that star
ratings are different for heating and cooling.
The government energy rating website has more information about the star rating system and
the rules for air conditioners.
Demand Response Enabling Device
Cooling and heating accounts for about 38% of an average household's energy use and is
a huge contributor to peak demand on the grid as well. To help reduce household power
consumption, many new air conditioner models now feature DREDs (Demand Response Enabling
Devices), also known as PeakSmart.
DREDs allow participating energy companies to remotely control the air conditioner in periods of peak
electricity demand usually in high summer when everyone wants to cool their homes reducing
both the strain on the grid and your household power consumption, without greatly affecting the air
conditioner's performance.
It can go a long way to reducing peak electricity demand and therefore the need for new
infrastructure and that means less cost passed on to consumers.
So far, only a few energy companies provide the service by installing a signal receiver into the DREDenabled air conditioner which automatically caps its energy consumption during peak periods. Some
energy companies, including Queensland-based Energex and Ergon, also pay incentives to
customers who buy DRED-enabled air conditioners.
Installation
Consider installation costs and requirements when you're shopping around. Here are some things to
remember:
Most traders offer supply and install packages, and some installation only. Installation
must be done by a licensed air conditioner installer, due to the ozone-depleting
refrigerant gas handling that's required. Look for an installer with ARCtick approval, and get a
few quotes.
Cool air is heavier than warm air. So, for optimum cooling, the air outlet should be
installed as close to the ceiling as possible, with the louvres pointing horizontally or upward.
For heating, point the louvres downwards.
It's generally better to install an air conditioner on a longer wall of a room, but your
installer should recommend the best place for your individual situation.

The outdoor unit of your split system needs to be installed on a firm base (for example, a
concrete slab) or attached to a wall, using sturdy brackets. It should be as close as possible
to the indoor air outlet, preferably no more than 15m away.
Shade the outdoor part of your air conditioner from direct sunlight for example, by
installing it on a southern wall or providing an awning.
Last but certainly not least, once you've got an air conditioner installed, here's how to keep it clean
and well-maintained for years of efficient running.
The Best Split System Air Conditioners on the Market
by RACHEL MURDOCK Last Updated: Jun 27, 2015

Rachel Murdock
Rachel Murdock published her first article in "The Asheville Citizen Times" in 1982. Her work has been
published in the "American Fork Citizen" and "Cincinnati Enquirer" as well as on corporate websites
and in other online publications. She earned a Bachelor of Arts in journalism at Brigham Young
University and a Master of Arts in mass communication at Miami University of Ohio.

Split system air conditioners do

not vary much between manufacturers, so look for the most efficiency for the money. Photo Credit
Comstock/Stockbyte/Getty Images
The most common type of air conditioning system is the split system, which puts the air handler
inside the home and the condenser and compressor outside the home.
The technology used for these systems has not changed dramatically for decades, and different
manufacturers make largely identical products.
So when you're shopping for an air conditioner, consider efficiency as indicated by the SEER,
manufacturer reputation and reliability, the size of the unit, any government rebates, and contractor
expertise.
Common Pitfalls

People purchasing a new air conditioner often think that the most efficient unit is clearly the best.
However, this is not always the case.
Extremely high efficiency air conditioners can cost over $1,000 more than a standard unit, but save
minimal amounts of fuel and money. You may never break even on the extra cost.
The SEER is an efficiency rating that compares the amount of energy required to produce a cooling
effect. You can calculate it by dividing BTUs by the wattage consumed. The higher the number, the
more efficient the air conditioner.
The minimum SEER rating allowed in the U.S. is a 13.
Where to Buy
The best place to buy a split system air conditioner is from a trusted HVAC (Heating, ventilating and
air conditioning) contractor. Many work with a specific brand of equipment, but some install several
different brands.
Be sure the contractor is certified to install the brand you choose. For example, cheaper Goodman
units (including Goodman, Janitrol, Amana) have high repair rates, but don't require certification from
installers. Often problems are related to faulty installation rather than product.
Trane and Bryant are well known names, but GE and Westinghouse make comparable products, and
may price aggressively or offer great warranties to compete.

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Cost
For a standard split system air conditioner (between 13 and 15 SEER rating), you can expect to pay
about $3,000 for the equipment. Special installation or ductwork may add another $3,000. Larger
capacity systems are costlier. Installed split system heat pumps (both air conditioning and heating)
cost about $5,500 for standard SEER.
High efficiency air conditioners, between 16 and 18 SEER, usually run about $500 more, and ultra
high efficiency (19 to 23 SEER) will add an additional $500 or so to the final cost.
Many experts agree that the extra cost for ultra high efficiency does not pay off.
Comparison Shopping
Be sure your contractor uses "Manual J" calculations in figuring the size of air conditioning unit
needed for your home.
If you like to have the "best of the best," then you may want an ultra high efficiency air conditioner.
Otherwise standard or high efficiency is adequate.

Accessories
The accessory most often purchased for a split system is an extended warranty, either on the
equipment or on the service.
Depending on how long you plan to live in the home, a service contract can be a good idea, but don't
buy into it without comparing costs. It may save you money on discounted repairs.
Look for air conditioner warranties that cover the labor involved in repairs. There aren't many, but
you can find them. This could represent a significant savings.
The standard warranty is ten years on the compressor, five years on all other parts, and no labor
costs covered.
Some installers will give you a year's labor guarantee; shop around before you buy.
Insider Tips
Don't fall for the "bigger is better" claim when it comes to air conditioners. The right size is most costeffective and comfortable for your home.
Unscrupulous contractors will sell oversized units, costing the homeowner both initially and
throughout the life of the system. They are inefficient and cycle off and on frequently. A properly
sized system will be on most of the time in very hot weather.
Avoid calling the biggest contractor in town -- you'll pay for the name recognition. Ask friends for
references, and you'll often find smaller contractors who are reliable and fair.