General Motorcycle Maintenance

Modern bikes require less maintenance than they did in the 60's and 70's but
they still need a lot more maintenance than a car. This higher reliability also
means that there are a whole bunch of motorcyclists out there who haven't a
clue how to work on their bikes or what really needs to be done to ensure
reliability.
Motorcyclists should be able to do at least basic maintenance on their bikes.
The more care and maintenance you give a bike the longer it will last.
Preforming general maintenance on your motorcycle will also help you spot
problems before they happen.
Things to Check Regularly
Tip: There are dozens of parts on a motorcycle that could be checked on a
regular basis and there is nothing wrong with check all those parts. But try to
slim the list down to the most important items so you still have time to ride.
Here is a basic list of some of the most important things to check on a
motorcycle. Even doing a little can make a big difference. Battery, Oil, Tires
(tyres), Brakes, Chain and sprocket (Shaft Drive, Belt Drive) and Fuel (Gas,
Petrol).

Tires, Tyres.
Tip: Keep a low pressure tire gauge (0psi - 80psi) in your bike tool bag at all
times. Try to remember to check your tire pressure every time you fill up for
gas.
Keep your tires correctly inflated. A tire that is very under-inflated generates a
lot of heat which can lead to a blowout. Tires that run too hot also wear out
more quickly. The most common motorcycle breakdown is for tire damage.
Purchase a pencil-type tyre gauge and use it regularly until you instinctively
'know' what your tyres feel like correctly inflated. Use of the gauge and visual
inspections must become second nature.

Replace your tires sooner rather than later. If tread depth is 1-2mm it is time to
replace your tires. Take a tip from the mad sport bikers and the canyon racers
- they never skimp on their tyres as they are often all that stands between
them and the pearly gates.
Brakes
Tip: Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time and becomes less effective.
Replace brake fluid every one to two years and your brakes will perform the
best they can.
Motorcycles have up to two brake fluid reservoirs, one for the front, usually
found on the handlebars and one for the back. Both should be checked
regularly. Topping up should only be done from a new, sealed bottle as brake
fluid tends to absorb moisture over time. If your brake pads are thin and due
for replacement. Beware - brake fluid, if spilt on paintwork eats right through to
the bare metal.
Also check the thickness of the brake pads. If you allow them to go right down
to the metal your brake disc will be damaged resulting in an unnecessary and
expensive replacement. Fitting braided steel brake lines will increase the
performance of your brakes by roughly 50%
Chain and sprockets, Shaft Drives, Belts
Tip: Lube your chain after each ride when the chain is warm so the oil can
easily soak in and get into all the tight spots of the chain.
These items that are essential to the wellbeing of your bike. If not well
maintained you will end up spending a lot of money all too often to have them
replaced.
Chains: Lubricate them often with a commercial chain spray every time you
fill up for gas. (Or at the end of each ride). Spray liberally on the side of the
chain that comes into contact with the sprockets. Ensure that you spray both
left and the right hand side of the chain. Position a piece of newspaper so that
you do not dirty the rear wheel rim as you spray. Use a second piece on the
floor to catch any drips. Wait five or ten minutes before you wipe all excess oil
off the chain. This whole process is a lot easier if your motorbike has a center
stand. Spinning the back tyre will ensure that the rest of the chain is lubricated

when it comes into contact with the sprocket and pinion. This is a task that is
best done when you return home from your ride while the chain is still warm.
Bike chains are never taut but must be able to sag between 3/4" to 1 1/4" at
the mid-point between the two sprockets. The sag is used when the bike
suspension moves up and down over uneven surfaces.
Shaft Drives: Even though shaft drives on motorcycles require little
maintenance we would suggest replacing the shaft drive oil every time you
change the oil on your motorcycle. This will lead to a very long and happy life
for the shaft drive.
Belt Drives: As with shaft drives, belts do not require a lot of maintenance.
Every time you change the oil on your motorcycle check the belt tension and
adjust if necessary. Make sure your belt is always clean.
Fuel
Tip: Check your fuel filter on a regular basis and replace every 2 years.
Fuel is quite an often overlooked as a form of preventative maintenance on a
motorcycle.
Check the fuel filter (if you have one) to make sure it is not clogged and looks
clean and clear. Replace fuel filters every 2 years.
Check the fuel lines for weather damage and cracking, replace immediately if
any is found.
Generally untreated gas only lasts (is good for) 6 months. After this time the
gas starts to break down. Dispose of untreated gas older than 6 months rather
than risk running it. Treated gas can last up to 2 years.
Remember when parking your motorcycle for any length of time to turn the
petcock (fuel tap) to the off position. This prevents any fuel potentially leaking
out and flooding the carbs or the engine.
Oil

Tip: Check your oil level when it is cold before you go on a ride. If it is not at
its high or max level top it up before going out.
Regular oil and filter changes will keep your motorbike young and healthy.
Oil level. Make sure you regularly check and keep your oil level at its HIGH or
MAX level. It is best to check your oil level on the bikes center stand or when
it is in a level position. An under filled oil level can be disastrous while too
much oil over the limit may flood your air cleaner with oil.
You should also know the difference between the 'low' level and the 'high'
level in ml e.g. if the difference is 300ml you cannot purchase a 500ml tin and
pour the whole can in!
Here are some pointers regarding oil which are true for most motorcycles
- The bike should be level as possible.
- The oil should best inspected cold and is therefore best done before you go
out on a ride.
- Be careful to not allow foreign matter and dirt to fall in during the inspection
process
- With threaded dipsticks do not screw the dipstick in when taking a reading,
just allow it to rest on the lowest thread.
- High temperatures, time, speed, heavy traffic, short trips and dust quickly
destroy the quality of your oil. If you do ride in these conditions change your
oil more frequently.
- I suggest changing your oil every 2-4000km or 3-6 months, whichever
comes first. (I change mine every 2,500 km).
- It is recommended you change your oil filter every other oil change if you are
using a good quality oil filter (e.g. WIX, Your Motorcycle Manufacturer Brand).
If not, every oil change!
- Always use a good oil filter (WIX brand from UAP/NAPA is a recommend
one)
- Motorcycles can and do use the same oils as cars although special synthetic
motorcycle oils are available. Always use the recommended oil weight for your
motorcycle (e.g. 10w40 or 20w50). Older (15+ year old) motorcycles run best
on regular (non-synthetic oil), while new bikes like either.
Battery

Tip: Check the fluid levels on each chamber. If any chamber is low, carefully
top it up. Use only distilled or deionized water, NOT tap water. Tap water has
minerals in it that will not do the battery any good.
The humble battery is a very common cause for motorcycle breakdowns!
Unfortunately they are awkward to get to and therefore do not get checked as
often as they should.
A battery only requires a little monthly maintenance to perform perfectly. Keep
the battery charged to 100%, recharging when the lights dim, the starter
sounds weak, or the battery hasn't been used in more than two weeks. Other
than that, follow this simple check list every month:
- Check the electrolyte level
- Top up only with distilled or deionized water, wear gloves and protective
glasses. Top up in a well ventilated area, Beware of fumes.
- Keep the top free of grime
- Check cables, clamps, and case for obvious damage or loose connections
- Clean terminals and connectors as necessary
- Check inside for excessive sediment, sulfation or mossing
- Make sure the exhaust tube is free of kinks and clogs
- Replace caps firmly
- Finish up by testing the battery with either a hydrometer or voltmeter. To
extend the service life of your battery, make monthly battery maintenance part
of your routine.
Use only distilled or deionized water, NOT tap water. Tap water has minerals
in it that will not do the battery any good
But how many times do you check your motorbike before you go for a ride?
Not only is it a legal requirement, but it could also save your life. A quick check
might find that the brake lever has no pressure. Better to find out while its
sitting in your garage than when you get to the bottom of your hill and the
brakes fail.
Checking your motorbike after a ride is also a good idea that may save some
inconvenience. If you have a slow leak in your tyres, its best to find out after
your ride than the next morning when you go to hop on your bike to commute
to work and discover you have a flat tyre.

BEFORE RIDING
1.
Check that your number plate and registration sticker are still firmly
fitted and clearly visible. That is, they arent smeared with mud or havent
vibrated around so that it is obscured by, say, the chain guard.

2.
Check all levers
Go around the motorbike and look for any oil, water or fluid leaks. Check
the radiator and engine hoses for telltale white marks which indicate a loss
of lubricant. Wipe your finger over the exposed section of the forks
checking for oil which could indicate broken fork seals. Also manually grab
and shake various parts of your bike to see that they havent vibrated
loose, such as windscreens, chain guard, rear racks, etc. Just give the
bike a basic once over with your eyes and hands.
3.

Check the throttle, brake lever/pedal and clutch lever for a bit of free
play. They should have a little, but not a lot. If the throttle doesnt move a
bit, then it is adjusted too tight and when you turn the handlebars from
side to side it will actually rev the motorbike, which is not good when you
are turning a corner. Make sure the brake lever/pedal activate the brake
light before they start to engage the cable. This means the brake light will
come on before you actually activate the brakes, therefore giving people
behind you plenty of warning.
4.
While pondering the brakes, check the lever tension. When you hit the
resistance point the lever or pedal shouldnt keep moving. If it does, then
your pads are worn out or there is a leak in the hydraulics. Check the
brake pad width regularly by sight front and back and by feel. If there
is a ridge, they are wearing out. Pads take a long time to wear out, so if

the lever starts to lose pressure, it may be a leak. Either way, take
your motorbike to a mechanic to have the brakes checked. Dont just top
up the brake fluid. That just disguises a leak or worn pads. If your brakes
are not hydraulic, check that the cables arent worn, frayed or buckled. If
you have drum brakes, check the wear indicators on the end of the cable
(refer to the manual).
5.

There are other fluids you can also check such as clutch and radiator
coolant. These can often be sealed units, so refer to your manual. Look for
signs of leaks. It also pays to check fuel, either on the gauge or with a
quick look in the tank. You dont want to run out before you get to a service
station.

6.
Check chain tension
Check the chain tension. There are sometimes indicators for the length of
slack on the swing arm or chain guard. If not, they should be in your
manual. Also check the front and rear sprocket for any wear or damage to
the teeth.
7.

Tyre pressures should be checked when they are cold as heat

increases pressure in the tyres. Check your manual or the chain guard for
the recommended cold tyre pressures. Get an analogue pressure monitor
as digital ones may be convenient, but they can quickly lose calibration
and give false readings. Also check your tyres for wear. Most tyres have
wear indicators, but the general rule is tread must be 1.5mm deep at the

shallowest or most-worn point. Also check for any foreign objects. A nail
can lodge in a tyre, but still not puncture it. However, it can cause a slow
leak or suddenly shift and blow the tyre.

8.
Check tyres, wheels and brake disc pads
While looking at the tyres, also check the rims for dings or cracks and on
spoked wheels check the spokes. You can do this by gently hitting them
with a small spanner. A loose spoke will have a lower, deader sound.
Tighten any loose spokes but make sure you arent just compensating for
a dented rim.
9.

Next, check the electrics. Switch on the ignition and check headlight on
low and high beam, indicators front and back, taillight and also check the
brake light off both the lever and pedal. Try the horn as well. Then start the
bike to see if the battery is fully charged or whether it labours to spark the
engine into life. Old batteries may require a distilled water top-up, but most
batteries are sealed these days. If its faulty, it isnt going to get any better,
so replace it now before it leaves you stranded.

10.
Check the oil level on the sight glass
Let your motorbike run for about a minute to warm the engine oil, then
switch it off and check the oil level. Dont do it when the engine is cold as
the level reading will be lower than expected as oil will still be up in the
engine. Put the bike on its centre stand or tip it as close to straight as
possible. A bike leaning on its side stand will give a false reading.
11.

Check your mirrors are clean and properly positioned. You can do this
earlier, tightening a loose mirror with a spanner. However, while youre
walking around your bike you can easily bump them out of alignment, so
check them again. Now youre ready to ride.

AFTER RIDING
1.
Give your motorbike another once-over with your eyes and hands as
you did before the ride, checking for anything that has come loose, broken
or started leaking. Since youve just been riding, you should have noticed
if the levers or throttle feel loose or sticky.
2.
While the bike is still warm from the ride, now is a good time to lubricate
the chain. This will allow the oils to stay viscous and soak into the chain
rather than coagulating in globs only to fling off when you next ride. When
spraying lube on a chain, point the nozzle forward toward the front
sprocket spraying the top side of the chain as it comes out the bottom of
the sprocket. This will ensure no slippery lubricant oversprays on to the
tyre. Spin the tyre with your other hand and spray at least one full chain
rotation. Also check the chain tension again.
3.
When the engine has cooled, give your bike a wash. Its not only good
to have a clean bike to take out next time, but it also prevents the built-on

grease and grime from corroding paint and chrome. It also allows you time
manhandling your motorbike which is often when you find a loose bolt,
leaking reservoir or broken light.