Soldering

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Not to be confused with the song.
This article is about the process. For the material, see Solder.
"Dry joint" redirects here. For types of switch or relay contacts, see Dry contact.
"Cold joint" redirects here. For thermocouple contacts, see Cold junction (thermocouple).

Desoldering a contact from a wire

Soldering (AmE: /sdr/, BrE: /sldr/), is a process in which two or more items
(usually metal) are joined together by melting and putting a filler metal (solder) into the joint,
the filler metal having a lower melting point than the adjoining metal. Soldering differs
from welding in that soldering does not involve melting the work pieces. In brazing, the filler
metal melts at a higher temperature, but the work piece metal does not melt. In the past, nearly
all solders contained lead, but environmental and health concerns have increasingly dictated
use of lead-free alloys for electronics and plumbing purposes.
Contents
[hide]
1Origins
2Applications
3Solders
4Flux
5Processes
o
5.1Soldering and brazing
o
5.2Silver soldering
o
5.3Induction soldering
o
5.4Electronic components (PCBs)

5.4.1Hot-bar reflow

5.4.2Laser
o
5.5Fiber focus infrared soldering
o
5.6Pipe soldering

5.7Mechanical and aluminium soldering

5.8Resistance soldering
5.9Stained glass soldering
6Solderability
7Desoldering and resoldering
8Lead-free electronic soldering
9Soldering defects
o
9.1Electronics
10Tools
11See also
12References
13External links
Origins[edit]
o
o
o

Small figurine being created by soldering

There is evidence that soldering was employed as early as 5000 years ago in Mesopotamia.
[1]
Soldering and brazing are thought to have originated very early in the history of metalworking, probably before 4000 BC. [2]Sumerian swords from ~3000 BC were assembled using
hard soldering.
Soldering was historically used to make jewelry items, cooking ware and tools, as well as
other uses such as in assembling stained glass.
Applications[edit]
Soldering is used in plumbing, electronics, and metalwork from flashing to jewelry.
Soldering provides reasonably permanent but reversible connections between copper pipes
in plumbing systems as well as joints in sheet metal objects such as food cans, roof
flashing, rain gutters and automobile radiators.
Jewelry components, machine tools and some refrigeration and plumbing components are
often assembled and repaired by the higher temperature silver soldering process. Small
mechanical parts are often soldered or brazed as well. Soldering is also used to join
lead came and copper foil in stained glass work.
Electronic soldering connects electrical wiring and electronic components to printed circuit
boards (PCBs).
Solders[edit]
Main article: Solder

Soldering filler materials are available in many different alloys for differing applications. In
electronics assembly, the eutectic alloy of 63% tin and 37% lead (or 60/40, which is almost
identical in melting point) has been the alloy of choice. Other alloys are used for plumbing,
mechanical assembly, and other applications. Some examples of soft-solder are tin-lead for
general purposes, tin-zinc for joining aluminium, lead-silver for strength at higher than room
temperature, cadmium-silver for strength at high temperatures, zinc-aluminium for aluminium
and corrosion resistance, and tin-silver and tin-bismuth for electronics.
A
eutectic
formulation
has
advantages
when
applied
to
soldering:
the liquidus and solidus temperatures are the same, so there is no plastic phase, and it has the
lowest possible melting point. Having the lowest possible melting point minimizes heat stress
on electronic components during soldering. And, having no plastic phase allows for quicker
wetting as the solder heats up, and quicker setup as the solder cools. A non-eutectic
formulation must remain still as the temperature drops through the liquidus and solidus
temperatures. Any movement during the plastic phase may result in cracks, resulting in an
unreliable joint.
Common solder formulations based on tin and lead are listed below. The fraction represent
percentage of tin first, then lead, totaling 100%:

63/37: melts at 183 C (361 F) (eutectic: the only mixture that melts at a point,
instead of over a range)

60/40: melts between 183190 C (361374 F)

50/50: melts between 183215 C (361419 F)

For environmental reasons (and the introduction of regulations such as the European RoHS
(Restriction of Hazardous Substances Directive)), lead-free solders are becoming more widely
used. They are also suggested anywhere young children may come into contact with (since
young children are likely to place things into their mouths), or for outdoor use where rain and
other precipitation may wash the lead into the groundwater. Unfortunately, most lead-free
solders are not eutectic formulations, melting at around 250 C (482 F), making it more
difficult to create reliable joints with them.
Other common solders include low-temperature formulations (often containing bismuth),
which are often used to join previously-soldered assemblies without un-soldering earlier
connections, and high-temperature formulations (usually containing silver) which are used for
high-temperature operation or for first assembly of items which must not become unsoldered
during subsequent operations. Alloying silver with other metals changes the melting point,
adhesion and wetting characteristics, and tensile strength. Of all the brazing alloys, silver
solders have the greatest strength and the broadest applications. [3] Specialty alloys are
available with properties such as higher strength, the ability to solder aluminum, better
electrical conductivity, and higher corrosion resistance. [4]
Flux[edit]
Main article: flux (metallurgy)
The purpose of flux is to facilitate the soldering process. One of the obstacles to a successful
solder joint is an impurity at the site of the joint, for example, dirt, oil or oxidation. The
impurities can be removed by mechanical cleaning or by chemical means, but the elevated
temperatures required to melt the filler metal (the solder) encourages the work piece (and the
solder) to re-oxidize. This effect is accelerated as the soldering temperatures increase and can

completely prevent the solder from joining to the workpiece. One of the earliest forms of flux
was charcoal, which acts as a reducing agent and helps prevent oxidation during the soldering
process. Some fluxes go beyond the simple prevention of oxidation and also provide some
form of chemical cleaning (corrosion).
For many years, the most common type of flux used in electronics (soft soldering) was rosinbased, using the rosin from selected pine trees. It was ideal in that it was non-corrosive and
non-conductive at normal temperatures but became mildly reactive (corrosive) at the elevated
soldering temperatures. Plumbing and automotive applications, among others, typically use an
acid-based (hydrochloric acid) flux which provides cleaning of the joint. These fluxes cannot
be used in electronics because they are conductive and because they will eventually dissolve
the small diameter wires. Many fluxes also act as a wetting agent in the soldering process,
[5]
reducing the surface tension of the molten solder and causing it to flow and wet the
workpieces more easily.
Fluxes for soft solder are currently available in three basic formulations:
1. Water-soluble fluxes - higher activity fluxes designed to be removed with water after
soldering (no VOCs required for removal).
2. No-clean fluxes - mild enough to not "require" removal due to their non-conductive
and non-corrosive residue.[6] These fluxes are called "no-clean" because the residue
left after the solder operation is non-conductive and won't cause electrical shorts;
nevertheless they leave a plainly visible white residue that resembles diluted birddroppings. No-clean flux residue is acceptable on all 3 classes of PCBs as defined
by IPC-610 provided it does not inhibit visual inspection, access to test points, or
have a wet, tacky or excessive residue that may spread onto other areas. Connector
mating surfaces must also be free of flux residue. Finger prints in no clean residue
is a class 3 defect[7]
3. Traditional rosin fluxes - available in non-activated (R), mildly activated (RMA) and
activated (RA) formulations. RA and RMA fluxes contain rosin combined with an
activating agent, typically an acid, which increases the wettability of metals to
which it is applied by removing existing oxides. The residue resulting from the use
of RA flux is corrosive and must be cleaned. RMA flux is formulated to result in a
residue which is not significantly corrosive, with cleaning being preferred but
optional.
Flux performance needs to be carefully evaluated; a very mild 'no-clean' flux might be
perfectly acceptable for production equipment, but not give adequate performance for a poorly
controlled hand-soldering operation.
Processes[edit]

Brazing and soldering processes classification chart[8]

There are three forms of soldering, each requiring progressively higher temperatures and
producing an increasingly stronger joint strength:
1. Soft soldering, which originally used a tin-lead alloy as the filler metal,
2. silver soldering, which uses an alloy containing silver,
3. brazing which uses a brass alloy for the filler.
The alloy of the filler metal for each type of soldering can be adjusted to modify the melting
temperature of the filler. Soldering differs from gluing significantly in that the filler metals
alloy with the workpiece at the junction to form a gas- and liquid-tight bond. [6]

Soft soldering is characterized by having a melting point of the filler metal below
approximately 400 C (752 F),[9] whereas silver soldering and brazing use higher
temperatures, typically requiring a flame or carbon arc torch to achieve the melting of the
filler. Soft solder filler metals are typically alloys (often containing lead) that
have liquidus temperatures below 350 C.
In this soldering process, heat is applied to the parts to be joined, causing the solder to melt
and to bond to the workpieces in an alloying process called wetting. In stranded wire, the
solder is drawn up into the wire by capillary action in a process called 'wicking'. Capillary
action also takes place when the workpieces are very close together or touching. The
joint's tensile strength is dependent on the filler metal used. Soldering produces electricallyconductive, water- and gas-tight joints.
Each type of solder offers advantages and disadvantages. Soft solder is so called because of
the soft lead that is its primary ingredient. Soft soldering uses the lowest temperatures but does
not make a strong joint and is unsuitable for mechanical load-bearing applications. It is also
unsuitable for high-temperature applications as it softens and melts. Silver soldering, as used
by jewelers, machinists and in some plumbing applications, requires the use of a torch or other
high-temperature source, and is much stronger than soft soldering. Brazing provides the
strongest joint but also requires the hottest temperatures to melt the filler metal, requiring a
torch or other high temperature source and darkened goggles to protect the eyes from the
bright light produced by the white-hot work. It is often used to repair cast-iron objects,
wrought-iron furniture, etc.
Soldering operations can be performed with hand tools, one joint at a time, or en masse on a
production line. Hand soldering is typically performed with a soldering iron, soldering gun, or
a torch, or occasionally ahot-air pencil. Sheetmetal work was traditionally done with
"soldering coppers" directly heated by a flame, with sufficient stored heat in the mass of the
soldering copper to complete a joint; torches or electrically-heated soldering irons are more
convenient. All soldered joints require the same elements of cleaning of the metal parts to be
joined, fitting up the joint, heating the parts, applying flux, applying the filler, removing heat
and holding the assembly still until the filler metal has completely solidified. Depending on
the nature of flux material used, cleaning of the joints may be required after they have cooled.
Each alloy has characteristics that work best for certain applications, notably strength and
conductivity, and each type of solder and alloy has different melting temperatures. The
term silver solder likewise denotes the type of solder that is used. Some soft solders are
"silver-bearing" alloys used to solder silver-plated items. Lead-based solders should not be
used on precious metals because the lead dissolves the metal and disfigures it.
Soldering and brazing[edit]
The distinction between soldering and brazing is based on the melting temperature of the filler
alloy. A temperature of 450 C is usually used as a practical delineating point between
soldering and brazing . Soft soldering can be done with a heated iron whereas the other
methods require a higher temperature torch or furnace to melt the filler metal.
Different equipment is usually required since a soldering iron cannot achieve high enough
temperatures for hard soldering or brazing. Brazing filler metal is stronger than silver solder,
which is stronger than lead-based soft solder. Brazing solders are formulated primarily for
strength, silver solder is used by jewelers to protect the precious metal and by machinists and
refrigeration technicians for its tensile strength but lower melting temperature than brazing,

and the primary benefit of soft solder is the low temperature used (to prevent heat damage to
electronic components and insulation).
Since the joint is produced using a metal with a lower melting temperature than the workpiece,
the joint will weaken as the ambient temperature approaches the melting point of the filler
metal. For that reason, the higher temperature processes produce joints which are effective at
higher temperatures. Brazed connections can be as strong or nearly as strong as the parts they
connect,[10][11] even at elevated temperatures.[12]
Silver soldering[edit]
"Hard soldering" or "silver soldering" is used to join precious and semi-precious metals such
as gold, silver, brass, and copper. The solder is usually referred to as easy, medium, or hard.
This refers to its melting temperature, not the strength of the joint. Extra-easy solder contains
56% silver and has a melting point of 1,145 F (618 C). Extra-hard solder has 80% silver and
melts at 1,370 F (740 C). If multiple joints are needed, then the jeweler will start with hard
or extra-hard solder and switch to lower-temperature solders for later joints.
Silver solder is absorbed by the surrounding metal, resulting in a joint that is actually stronger
than the metal being joined. The metal being joined must be perfectly flush, as silver solder
cannot normally be used as a filler and any gaps will remain.
Another difference between brazing and soldering is how the solder is applied. In brazing, one
generally uses rods that are touched to the joint while being heated. With silver soldering,
small pieces of solder wire are placed onto the metal prior to heating. A flux, often made of
boric acid and denatured alcohol, is used to keep the metal and solder clean and to prevent the
solder from moving before it melts.
When silver solder melts, it tends to flow towards the area of greatest heat. Jewelers can
somewhat control the direction the solder moves by leading it with a torch; it will even run
straight up along a seam.
Induction soldering[edit]
Induction soldering uses induction heating by high-frequency AC current in a surrounding
copper coil. This induces currents in the part being soldered, which generates heat because of
the higher resistance of a joint versus its surrounding metal (resistive heating). These copper
coils can be shaped to fit the joint more precisely. A filler metal (solder) is placed between the
facing surfaces, and this solder melts at a fairly low temperature. Fluxes are commonly used in
induction soldering. This technique is particularly suited to continuously soldering, in which
case these coils wrap around a cylinder or a pipe that needs to be soldered.
Some metals are easier to solder than others. Copper, silver, and gold are easy. Iron, mild
steel and nickel are next in difficulty. Because of their thin, strong oxide films, stainless
steel and aluminium are even more difficult to solder. Titanium, magnesium, cast irons, some
high-carbon steels, ceramics, and graphite can be soldered but it involves a process similar to
joining carbides: they are first plated with a suitable metallic element that induces interfacial
bonding.
Electronic components (PCBs)[edit]

Soldering of an SMD capacitor

A tube of multicore electronics solder used for manual soldering

An improperly soldered 'cold' joint

Broken solder joints on a circuit board

Currently, mass-production printed circuit boards (PCBs) are mostly wave soldered or reflow
soldered, though hand soldering of production electronics is also still standard practice.
In wave soldering, parts are temporarily kept in place with small dabs of adhesive, then the
assembly is passed over flowing solder in a bulk container. This solder is shaken into waves so
the whole PCB is not submerged in solder, but rather touched by these waves. The end result is
that solder stays on pins and pads, but not on the PCB itself.
Reflow soldering is a process in which a solder paste (a mixture of prealloyed solder powder
and a flux-vehicle that has a peanut butter-like consistency [6]) is used to stick the components
to their attachment pads, after which the assembly is heated by an infrared lamp, a hot air
pencil, or, more commonly, by passing it through a carefully controlled oven.
Since different components can be best assembled by different techniques, it is common to use
two or more processes for a given PCB. For example, surface mounted parts may be reflow
soldered first, with a wave soldering process for the through-hole mounted components
coming next, and bulkier parts hand-soldered last.
For hand soldering, the heat source tool should be selected to provide adequate heat for the
size of joint to be completed. A 100 watt soldering iron may provide too much heat for printed
circuit boards, while a 25 watt iron will not provide enough heat for large electrical
connectors, joining copper roof flashing, or large stained-glass lead came. Using a tool with
too high a temperature can damage sensitive components, but protracted heating by a tool that
is too cool or under powered can also cause extensive heat damage.
Hand-soldering techniques require a great deal of skill to use on what is known as fine-pitch
soldering of chip packages. In particular ball grid array (BGA) devices are notoriously
difficult, if not impossible, to rework by hand.
For attachment of electronic components to a PCB, proper selection and use of flux helps
prevent oxidation during soldering, which is essential for good wetting and heat transfer. The
soldering iron tip must be clean and pre-tinned with solder to ensure rapid heat transfer.
Components which dissipate large amounts of heat during operation are sometimes elevated
above the PCB to avoid PCB overheating. After inserting a through-hole mounted component,
the excess lead is cut off, leaving a length of about the radius of the pad. Plastic or metal
mounting clips or holders may be used with large devices to aid heat dissipation and reduce
joint stresses.

A heat sink may be used on the leads of heat sensitive components to reduce heat transfer to
the component. This is especially applicable to germanium parts. (Note the heat sink will
mean the use of more heat to complete the joint.) If all metal surfaces are not properly fluxed
and brought above the melting temperature of the solder in use, the result will be an unreliable
"cold solder joint".
To simplify soldering, beginners are usually advised to apply the soldering iron and the solder
separately to the joint, rather than the solder being applied direct to the iron. When sufficient
solder is applied, the solder wire is removed. When the surfaces are adequately heated, the
solder will flow around the joint. The iron is then removed from the joint.
Since non-eutectic solder alloys have a small plastic range, the joint must not be moved until
the solder has cooled down through both the liquidus and solidus temperatures. When visually
inspected, a good solder joint will appear smooth and shiny, with the outline of the soldered
wire clearly visible. A matte gray surface is a good indicator of a joint that was moved during
soldering.
Other solder defects can be detected visually as well. Too little solder will result in a dry and
unreliable joint; too much solder (the familiar 'solder blob' to beginners) is not necessarily
unsound, but tends to mean poor wetting. With some fluxes, flux residue remaining on the
joint may need to be removed, using water, alcohol or other solvents compatible with the parts
in question.
Excess solder and unconsumed flux and residue is sometimes wiped from the soldering iron
tip between joints. The tip of the iron is kept wetted with solder ("tinned") when hot to assist
soldering, and when hot and cold to minimize oxidation and corrosion of the tip itself.
Environmental legislation in many countries, and the whole of the European Community area
(see RoHS), has led to a change in formulation of both solders and fluxes. Water-soluble nonrosin-based fluxes have been increasingly used since the 1980s so that soldered boards can be
cleaned with water or water-based cleaners. This eliminates hazardous solvents from the
production environment, and from factory effluents.
Hot-bar reflow[edit]
Hot-bar reflow is a selective soldering process where two pre-fluxed, solder coated parts are
heated with heating element (called a thermode) to a sufficient temperature to melt the solder.
Pressure is applied through the whole process (usually 15 s) to ensure that components stay in
place during cooling. The heating element is heated and cooled for each connection. Up to
4000 W can be used in the heating element allowing fast soldering, good results with
connections requiring high energy.[13]
Laser[edit]
Laser soldering is a technique where a ~30-50 W laser is used to melt and solder an electrical
connection joint. Diode laser systems based on semiconductor junctions are used for this
purpose.[14] Suzanne Jenniches patented laser soldering in 1980.[15]
Wavelengths are typically 808 nm through 980 nm. The beam is delivered via an optical fiber
to the workpiece, with fiber diameters 800 m and smaller. Since the beam out of the end of
the fiber diverges rapidly, lenses are used to create a suitable spot size on the workpiece at a
suitable working distance. A wire feeder is used to supply solder.[16]
Both lead-tin and silver-tin material can be soldered. Process recipes will differ depending on
the alloy composition. For soldering 44-pin chip carriers to a board using soldering preforms,
power levels were on the order of 10 Watts and solder times approximately 1 second. Low

power levels can lead to incomplete wetting and the formation of voids, both of which can
weaken the joint.
Fiber focus infrared soldering[edit]
Fiber focus infrared soldering is technique where many infrared sources are led through fibers,
then focused onto a single spot at which the connection is soldered. [17][not in citation given]
Pipe soldering[edit]

Soldered copper pipes

Solder

Lead-free solder

Copper pipe, or 'tube', is commonly joined by soldering. When applied in a plumbing trade
context in the United States, soldering is often referred to as sweating, and a tubing connection
so made is referred to as a sweated joint.
Copper tubing conducts heat away much faster than a conventional hand-held soldering iron
or gun can provide, so a propane torch is most commonly used to deliver the necessary power;
for large tubing sizes and fittings aMAPP-fueled, acetylene-fueled, or propylene-fueled torch
is used with atmospheric air as the oxidizer; MAPP/oxygen or acetylene/oxygen are rarely
used because the flame temperature is much higher than the melting point of copper. Too
much heat destroys the temper of hard-tempered copper tubing, and can burn the flux out of a
joint before the solder is added, resulting in a faulty joint. For larger tubing sizes, a torch fitted
with various sizes of interchangeable swirl tips is employed to deliver the needed heating
power. Most experienced plumbers seldom use propane fuel. [citation needed] In the hands of a
skilled tradesman, the hotter flame of acetylene, MAPP, or propylene allows more joints to be
completed per hour.
However, it is possible to use an electrical tool to solder joints in copper pipe sized from 8mm
to 22mm. For example, the Antex Pipemaster is recommended for use in tight spaces,
when open flames are hazardous, or by do-it-yourself users. The pliers-like tool uses heated
fitted jaws that completely encircle the pipe, allowing a joint to be melted in as little as 10
seconds.[18]
Solder fittings, also known as capillary fittings, are short sections of smooth pipe designed to
slide over the outside of the mating tube, are usually used for copper joints. Commonly used
fittings include for straight connectors, reducers, bends, and tees. There are two types of solder
fittings: end feed fittings which contain no solder, and solder ring fittings (also known as
Yorkshire fittings), in which there is a ring of solder in a small circular recess inside the fitting.
As with all solder joints, all parts to be joined must be clean and oxide free. Internal and
external wire brushes are available for the common pipe and fitting sizes; emery cloth and
wire-wool are frequently used as well, although metal wool products are discouraged, as they
can contain oil, which would contaminate the joint.
Because of the size of the parts involved, and the high activity and contaminating tendency of
the flame, plumbing fluxes are typically much more chemically active, and more acidic, than
electronic fluxes. Because plumbing joints may be done at any angle, even upside down,
plumbing fluxes are generally formulated as pastes which stay in place better than liquids.
Flux should be applied to all surfaces of the joint, inside and out. Flux residues should be
removed after the joint is complete or they can, eventually, erode through the copper substrates
and cause failure of the joint.
Many plumbing solder formulations are available, with different characteristics, such as higher
or lower melting temperature, depending on the specific requirements of the job. Building
codes currently almost universally require the use of lead-free solder for potable water piping,
though traditional tin-lead solder is still available. Studies have shown that lead-soldered
plumbing pipes can result in elevated levels of lead in drinking water.[19][20]
Since copper pipe quickly conducts heat away from a joint, great care must be taken to ensure
that the joint is properly heated through to obtain a good bond. After the joint is properly
cleaned, fluxed and fitted, the torch flame is applied to the thickest part of the joint, typically
the fitting with the pipe inside it, with the solder applied at the gap between the tube and the
fitting. When all the parts are heated through, the solder will melt and flow into the joint by

capillary action. The torch may need to be moved around the joint to ensure all areas are
wetted out. However, the installer must take care to not overheat the areas being soldered. If
the tube begins to discolor it means that the tube has been over-heated and is beginning to
oxidize, stopping the flow of the solder and causing the soldered joint not to seal properly.
Before oxidation the molten solder will follow the heat of the torch around the joint. When the
joint is properly wetted out, the solder and then the heat are removed, and while the joint is
still very hot, it is usually wiped with a dry rag. This removes excess solder as well as flux
residue before it cools down and hardens. With a solder ring joint, the joint is heated until a
ring of molten solder is visible around the edge of the fitting and allowed to cool.
Of the three methods of connecting copper tubing, solder connections require the most skill,
but soldering copper is a very reliable process, provided some basic conditions are provided:

The tubing and fittings must be cleaned to bare metal with no tarnish

Any pressure which is formed by heating of the tubing must have an outlet

The joint must be dry (which can be challenging when repairing water pipes)
Copper is only one material that is joined in this manner. Brass fittings are often used for
valves or as a connection fitting between copper and other metals. Brass piping is soldered in
this manner in the making of brass instruments and some woodwind (saxophone and flute)
musical instruments
Mechanical and aluminium soldering[edit]
A number of solder materials, primarily zinc alloys, are used for soldering aluminium metal
and alloys and to some lesser extent steel and zinc. This mechanical soldering is similar to a
low temperature brazing operation, in that the mechanical characteristics of the joint are
reasonably good and it can be used for structural repairs of those materials.
The American welding society defines brazing as using filler metals with melting points over
450 C (842 F) or, by the traditional definition in the United States, above 800 F
(427 C). Aluminium soldering alloys generally have melting temperatures around 730 F
(388 C).[21] This soldering / brazing operation can use a propane torch heat source. [22]
These materials are often advertised as "aluminium welding", but the process does not involve
melting the base metal, and therefore is not properly a weld.
United States Military Standard or MIL-SPEC specification MIL-R-4208 defines one standard
for these zinc-based brazing/soldering alloys. [23] A number of products meet this specification.
[22][24][25]
or very similar performance standards.[21]
Resistance soldering is soldering in which the heat required to flow the solder is created by
passing an electric current through the solder. When current is conducted through a resistive
material a certain level of heat is generated. By regulating the amount of current conducted
and the level of resistance encountered, the amount of heat produced can be predetermined
and controlled.
Electrical resistance (usually described as a material's opposition to the flow of an electric
current) is used to convert electric energy into thermal energy as an electric current (I)
conducted through a material with resistance (R) releases power (P) equal to: P = I R, where P
is the power measured in watts, I is the current measured in amps and R is the resistance
measured in ohms.
Resistance soldering[edit]

Resistance soldering is unlike using a conduction iron, where heat is produced within an
element and then passed through a thermally conductive tip into the joint area. A cold
soldering iron requires time to reach working temperature and must be kept hot between solder
joints. Thermal transfer may be inhibited if the tip is not kept properly wetted during use. With
resistance soldering an intense heat can be rapidly developed directly within the joint area and
in a tightly controlled manner. This allows a faster ramp up to the required solder melt
temperature and minimizes thermal travel away from the solder joint, which helps to minimize
the potential for thermal damage to materials or components in the surrounding area. Heat is
only produced while each joint is being made, making resistance soldering more energy
efficient. Resistance soldering equipment, unlike conduction irons, can be used for difficult
soldering and brazing applications where significantly higher temperatures may be required.
This makes resistance comparable to flame soldering in some situations. When the required
temperature can be achieved by either flame or resistance methods the resistance heat is more
localized because of direct contact, whereas the flame will spread thus heating a potentially
larger area.
Stained glass soldering[edit]
Historically, stained glass soldering tips were copper, heated by being placed in a charcoalburning brazier. Multiple tips were used; when one tip cooled down from use, it was placed
back in the brazier of charcoal and the next tip was used.
More recently, electrically heated soldering irons are used. These are heated by a coil or
ceramic heating element inside the tip of the iron. Different power ratings are available, and
temperature can be controlled electronically. These characteristics allow longer beads to be run
without interrupting the work to change tips. Soldering irons designed for electronic use are
often effective though they are sometimes underpowered for the heavy copper and lead came
used in stained glass work. Oleic acid is the classic flux material that has been used to improve
solderability.
Tiffany-type stainglass is made by gluing copper foil around the edges of the pieces of glass
and then soldering them together. This method makes it possible to create three-dimensional
stained glass pieces.
Solderability[edit]
Main article: Solderability
The solderability of a substrate is a measure of the ease with which a soldered joint can be
made to that material.
Desoldering and resoldering[edit]
Main article: Desoldering
Used solder contains some of the dissolved base metals and is unsuitable for reuse in making
new joints. Once the solder's capacity for the base metal has been achieved it will no longer
properly bond with the base metal, usually resulting in a brittle cold solder joint with a
crystalline appearance.
It is good practice to remove solder from a joint prior to resolderingdesoldering braids or
vacuum desoldering equipment (solder suckers) can be used. Desoldering wicks contain plenty
of flux that will lift the contamination from the copper trace and any device leads that are
present. This will leave a bright, shiny, clean junction to be resoldered.
The lower melting point of solder means it can be melted away from the base metal, leaving it
mostly intact, though the outer layer will be "tinned" with solder. Flux will remain which can

easily be removed by abrasive or chemical processes. This tinned layer will allow solder to
flow into a new joint, resulting in a new joint, as well as making the new solder flow very
quickly and easily.
Lead-free electronic soldering[edit]
More recently environmental legislation has specifically targeted the wide use of lead in the
electronics industry. The RoHS directives in Europe required many new electronic circuit
boards to be lead free by 1 July 2006, mostly in the consumer goods industry, but in some
others as well. In Japan lead was phased out prior to legislation by manufacturers due to the
additional expense in recycling products containing lead. [26] However, even without the
presence of lead, soldering can release fumes that are harmful and/or toxic to humans. It is
highly recommended to use a device that can remove the fumes from the work area either by
ventilating outside or filtering the air.[27]
It is a common misconception that lead free soldering requires higher soldering temperatures
than lead/tin solder; the wetting temperature in lead/tin solder is higher than the melting point
and is the controlling factor - Wave soldering can proceed at the same temperature as previous
lead/tin soldering.[26] Nevertheless, many new technical challenges have arisen with this
endeavor; to reduce the melting point of tin-based solder alloys various new alloys have had to
be researched, with additives of copper, silver, bismuth as typical minor additives to reduce
melting point and control other properties, additionally tin is a more corrosive metal, and can
eventually lead to the failure of solder baths etc. [26]
Lead-free construction has also extended to components, pins, and connectors. Most of these
pins used copper frames, and either lead, tin, gold or other finishes. Tin finishes are the most
popular of lead-free finishes. Nevertheless, this brings up the issue of how to deal with tin
whiskers. The current movement brings the electronics industry back to the problems solved in
the 1960s by adding lead. JEDEC has created a classification system to help lead-free
electronic manufacturers decide what provisions to take against whiskers, depending upon
their application.
Soldering defects[edit]
In the joining of copper tube, failure to properly heat and fill a joint may lead to a 'void' being
formed. This is usually a result of improper placement of the flame. If the heat of the flame is
not directed at the back of the fitting cup, and the solder wire applied degrees opposite the
flame, then solder will quickly fill the opening of the fitting, trapping some flux inside the
joint. This bubble of trapped flux is the void; an area inside a soldered joint where solder is
unable to completely fill the fittings' cup, because flux has become sealed inside the joint,
preventing solder from occupying that space.
Electronics[edit]
Various problems may arise in the soldering process which lead to joints which are
nonfunctional either immediately or after a period of use.
The most common defect when hand-soldering results from the parts being joined not
exceeding the solder's liquidus temperature, resulting in a "cold solder" joint. This is usually
the result of the soldering iron being used to heat the solder directly, rather than the parts
themselves. Properly done, the iron heats the parts to be connected, which in turn melt the
solder, guaranteeing adequate heat in the joined parts for thorough wetting. In electronic hand
soldering the flux is embedded in the solder. Therefore, heating the solder first may cause the
flux to evaporate before it cleans the surfaces being soldered. A cold-soldered joint may not

conduct at all, or may conduct only intermittently. Cold-soldered joints also happen in mass
production, and are a common cause of equipment which passes testing, but malfunctions after
sometimes years of operation. A "dry joint" occurs when the cooling solder is moved, and
often occurs because the joint moves when the soldering iron is removed from the joint.
An improperly selected or applied flux can cause joint failure. If not properly cleaned, a flux
may corrode the joint and cause eventual joint failure. Without flux the joint may not be clean,
or may be oxidized, resulting in an unsound joint.
In electronics non-corrosive fluxes are often used. Therefore, cleaning flux off may merely be
a matter of aesthetics or to make visual inspection of joints easier in specialised 'mission
critical' applications such as medical devices, military and aerospace. For satellites also to
reduce weight slightly but usefully. In high humidity, even non-corrosive flux might remain
slightly active, therefore the flux may be removed to reduce corrosion over time. In some
applications, the PCB might also be coated in some form of protective material such as
a lacquer to protect it and exposed solder joints from the environment.
Movement of metals being soldered before the solder has cooled will cause a highly unreliable
cracked joint. In electronics' soldering terminology this is known as a 'dry' joint. It has a
characteristically dull or grainy appearance immediately after the joint is made, rather than
being smooth, bright and shiny. This appearance is caused by crystallization of the liquid
solder. A dry joint is weak mechanically and a poor conductor electrically.
In general a good looking soldered joint is a good joint. As mentioned it should be smooth,
bright and shiny. If the joint has lumps or balls of otherwise shiny solder the metal has not
'wetted' properly. Not being bright and shiny suggests a weak 'dry' joint. However, technicians
trying to apply this guideline when using lead-free solder formulations may experience
frustration, because these types of solders readily cool to a dull surface even if the joint is
good. The solder looks shiny while molten, and suddenly hazes over as it solidifies even
though it has not been disturbed during cooling.
In electronics a 'concave' fillet is ideal. This indicates good wetting and minimal use of solder
(therefore minimal heating of heat sensitive components). A joint may be good, but if a large
amount of unnecessary solder is used then more heating is obviously required. Excessive
heating of a PCB may result in 'delamination', the copper track may actually lift off the board,
particularly on single sided PCBs without through hole plating.
Tools[edit]
In principle any type of soldering tool can carry out any work using solder at temperatures it
can generate. In practice different tools are more suitable for different applications.
Hand-soldering tools widely used for electronics work include the electric soldering iron,
which can be fitted with a variety of tips ranging from blunt to very fine, to chisel heads for
hot-cutting plastics rather than soldering. The simplest irons do not have temperature
regulation; small irons rapidly cool when used to solder to, say, a metal chassis, while large
irons have tips too cumbersome for working on PCBs and similar fine work. Temperaturecontrolled irons have a reserve of power and can maintain temperature over a wide range of
work. The soldering gun heats faster but has a larger and heavier body. Gas-powered irons
using a catalytic tip to heat a bit, without flame, are used for portable applications. Hot-air
guns and pencils allow rework of component packages which cannot easily be performed with
electric irons and guns.

For non-electronic applications soldering torches use a flame rather than a soldering tip to heat
solder. Soldering torches are often powered by butane [28] and are available in sizes ranging
from very small butane/oxygen units suitable for very fine but high-temperature jewelry work,
to full-size oxy-fuel torches suitable for much larger work such as copper piping. Common
multipurpose propane torches, the same kind used for heat-stripping paint and thawing pipes,
can be used for soldering pipes and other fairly large objects either with or without a soldering
tip attachment; pipes are generally soldered with a torch by directly applying the open flame.
A soldering copper is a tool with a large copper head and a long handle which is heated in
a blacksmith's forge fire and used to apply heat to sheet metal for soldering. Typical soldering
coppers have heads weighing between one and four pounds. The head provides a large thermal
mass to store enough heat for soldering large areas before needing re-heating in the fire; the
larger the head, the longer the working time. Historically, soldering coppers were standard
tools used in auto bodywork, although body solder has been mostly superseded by spot
welding for mechanical connection, and non-metallic fillers for contouring.
Toaster ovens and hand held infrared lights have been used by hobbyists to replicate
production soldering processes on a much smaller scale.
Bristle brushes are usually used to apply plumbing paste flux. For electronic work, flux-core
solder is generally used, but additional flux may be used from a flux pen or dispensed from a
small bottle with a syringe-like needle.
Wire brush, wire wool and emery cloth are commonly used to prepare plumbing joints for
connection. Electronic joints are usually made between surfaces that have been tinned and
rarely require mechanical cleaning, though tarnished component leads and copper traces with
a dark layer of oxide passivation (due to aging), as on a new prototyping board that has been
on the shelf for about a year or more, may need to be mechanically cleaned.
Some fluxes for electronics are designed to be stable and inactive when cool and do not need
to be cleaned off, though they still can be if desired, while other fluxes are acidic and must be
removed after soldering to prevent corrosion of the circuits. For PCB assembly and rework,
either an alcohol or acetone is commonly used with cotton swabs or bristle brushes to remove
flux residue after soldering. A heavy rag is usually used to remove flux from a plumbing joint
before it cools and hardens. A fiberglass brush can also be used.
A heat sink, such as a crocodile clip, can be used to prevent damaging heat-sensitive
components while hand-soldering. The heat sink limits the temperature of the component body
by absorbing and dissipating heat (reducing the thermal resistance between the component and
the air), while the thermal resistance of the leads maintains the temperature difference between
the part of the leads being soldered and the component body so that the leads become hot
enough to melt the solder while the component body remains cooler.
How To Solder
Everyone can learn how to solder, and it is a crucial skill to know if you are building
electronic circuits. And basic soldering is easy. All you need is a soldering iron and some
solder. When my dad taught me as a teenager, I remember picking it up quite fast.
This
tutorial
teaches
you
how
to
solder.
Preparation

Prepare your workspace. Find your soldering iron and your solder wire and start heating the
iron. You can read about soldering tools and how to choose a soldering iron here.
Clean the tip
When the iron hot, start with cleaning the tip to remove old solder from it. You can use a wet
sponge, a copper scouring pad or something similar.
Tinning the tip
Before you start soldering, you should tin the tip of the soldering iron. This makes the tip
transfer heat faster and thereby making the soldering easier and faster. If you get any droplets
of tin on your tip, use a sponge, a copper scouring pad or just shake it off.

TIPS: If you tin the tip before you put down the soldering iron for the day, it is said that the tip
should last longer.
How to solder two wires
Start with tinning the two wires. It is useful to have something to hold one wire for you. Place
the tip of the iron on the wire and let it heat for a second or three. Then add some solder until
the wire is soaked with solder. If it is a thick wire, you should turn up the heat on your iron (if
possible) to make the wire heat up faster. Repeat the tinning process on the other wire.

Now place the two tinned wires together and hold still while heating them with the soldering
iron so that the tin on both of the wires melt together.

If you are happy with your soldering, cut off the component lead from above the solder joint.
Soldering on a PCB
How to solder through-hole components on a PCB starts by placing the part in its hole. Bend
the leads of the part so that it stays in its place.
Put the tip of the iron on the pad so that it heats both the lead of the part and the pad of the
circuit board. Heat them for a second or so before you apply solder. Remove the iron and the
solder wire and inspect your solder joint to see if it looks okay.
Note: If you are soldering ICs, it is smart to use an IC socket. Some ICs will break if the heat
from the soldering iron is too hot.

A good solder joint has kind of a cone shape.

Edit: One of my readers commented on this and explained that you should always cut the
leads before you solder for best result. I have to admit that I dont usually do that, but its

worth mentioning

Watch out for cold solder joints

Always make sure that you apply enough heat, otherwise you might end up with a cold solder
joint. Such a solder joint might look okay without actually providing the connection you
want. This can lead to some serious frustration when your circuit doesnt work and you are

trying to figure out why

When you look at a cold solder joint up close, youll
see that it has a small gap between the solder and the pin.
One art form that geeks really appreciate is soldering, but not all of us know the proper
technique. Its an easy skill to add to your geek resume, so lets learn how and some old
projects off the shelf.
(Image credit: oskay)
What Is Soldering?

More On Soldering
If you feel you are ready to take the next step in soldering, check out these articles:

What is the RIGHT soldering temperature?

SMD Soldering Using a Soldering Iron

Reflow Soldering

How to desolder

3 Soldering Techniques Everybody Ought To Know

Get Started Soldering
The quickest way to get started soldering is to get some soldering tools and a kit. Makershed
has a good starter pack with the basic tools and they also have several interesting kits.
Click here to find the Soldering Starter Kit.
HowtoUseaSolderingIron:ABeginnersGuide

(Image credit: Public Domain Photos)

A soldering iron is a tool with a metal tip that gets really hot. Were talking like 800 degree
Fahrenheit, though you can adjust the temperature on a good iron. Its job is to transfer heat to
things like wires, transistor leads, and pads on PCBs. After the appropriate areas are heated
properly, solder is applied. If you plan on soldering, then youre better off spending $30-$40
on a 20-30 Watt iron instead of on a cheap $15 one. Youll get a longer-lasting tool that will
work for a much wider variety of applications and youll get proper heat control to boot. There
are also soldering guns available, but you should only use these when repairing thick cables
and never on PCBs, as the tips have a live voltage running through them that can damage
sensitive electronics.

(Image credit: Public Domain Photos)

Solder is a thin tube, usually rolled in spools, made of various metal alloys. Its job is to hold
the individual components together. The individual components and their quantities can vary,
but for computer electronics, youre usually looking at a 60% tin and 40% lead. Lead-free
solder is also available, though it has higher melting temperatures and less wettability,
meaning you may need a better soldering iron to use it and removing it can be more tedious.
Lead-free solder is better for the environment and has other benefits, and they function more
or less the same way.
The inside of the tube is filled with flux, a substance that gets rid of oxidation and helps
clean the surfaces involved in the fusing process. For electronic use, you want rosincore/rosin-flux solder. Acid-flux is used in plumbing and the acid can damage the sensitive
components on PCBs.
Safety First!

(Image credit: intherough)

Many whove never used a soldering iron are afraid of damaging equipment, but more
important is the danger to yourself! Soldering irons get really hot (think, and solder itself is
molten metal. Be sure to wear safety glasses, keep loose clothing and hair out of the way, and
be careful with your fingers. Better still, use protective gloves. Solder can contain lead, so be
sure to wash your hands thoroughly after handling it. Its also really important to work in a
well-ventilated area because the fumes from the rosin can cause damage to your lungs when
inhaled. Honestly, its more common sense and preparation than anything. Just take proper
precautions and youll be fine.
Cleaning and Tinning the Tip

(Image credit: Mae Labs)

In order to conduct heat properly, your soldering iron needs to be free of any old solder. After
being exposed to air, it oxidizes and thus insulates against heat. We want heat to conduct so
that we can apply everything quickly and efficiently. A dirty tip means that youll have to hold
the iron on longer and risk heat damage to the PCB, and nobody wants that. Keep a wet
sponge handy, and after the soldering iron is fully heated, softly scrape it against the sponge to
remove old solder. The tip should be nice and shiny, or at least very close to it.
Next, were going to tin the tip. This will protect the tip and allow heat to conduct better via
the presence of new solder. On the hot iron, carefully apply a small amount of fresh solder and
coat the tip. It should still be shiny if youve done it right. As soon as you tin the tip you
should start soldering your components together. After every few joins, clean and re-tin, and
again before putting your iron away into storage. This will really help increase the longevity of
your tool. A good soldering iron should easily last years this way.
Joining Parts

(Image credit: Soldering Is Easy Comic Book)

Hold the iron in your dominant hand and a long piece of solder in your other hand. When
soldering two components together, you want to touch the area where they join with the
soldering iron. Hold it there for about a second, then slide the solder underneath the tip of the
iron, sandwiching it to the PCB (refer to above image, cursor points to solder). Hold it for
another second or two, feeding in how much solder you need. This amount will vary
depending on the project, application, and diameter of the solder, so check your instructions
and study the pictures to get a good idea of the end result.

(Image credit: Soldering Is Easy Comic Book)

Now, this is really important. Pull away the solder first, and continue holding the iron for
another second. This allows the solder to continue to melt and pool, forming a good joint.
Then, you can remove the iron. The total process shouldnt take more than 5 seconds, and
usually youre aiming for 3-4.

Wait a few seconds and dont disturb the solder. It cools very quickly, but moving or blowing
on the joint will cause it to deteriorate. A bad solder connection will look really oxidized,
overly dull, and grainy. It also sort of looks like a ball of solder formed on the area. A good
connection should be smooth and uniform, and its sides will be concave. It wont look like a
raised ball, itll look flat.
Desoldering
When removing a connection or undoing a mistake, you can often resolder over the original
and add a touch of new solder. If you want to take the extra step and do it right, you can
remove the old solder completely and start with a fresh work area. There are two tools you can
use for this, a vacuum-based solder sucker, or a solder wick.

Soldering isnt particularly difficult. You just need to focus, keep a steady hand, and be safe. A
good soldering iron will prove to be a wonderful investment, leading to a much wider
arrangement of geek projects at your disposal. Now that you know how, practice so that youre
ready to show off your skills!
Soldering Tip Do's and Don'ts
Do's

Don'ts

Rotate tip on soldering iron element shaft 1/2turn each time before powering on iron (cleans
contact)
Power up soldering iron with new tip
without immediately tinning the tip
with solder as it is heating up. This
will prevent the tip from "heat
glazing" (oxidation).

(Image credit: Wikimedia Commons)

A solder sucker is essentially a tiny hand-held syringe-like pump. It creates and uses vacuum
pressure to suck solder off of whatever its on. Its a great tool to have and works well.

If a new tip is not tinned at startup and becomes

"heat glazed" (won't take solder), plunge the hot
tip intotip cleaner for 15-30 seconds, wipe on
damp sponge and tin.
Frequently wipe soldering tips on dampened
sponge to keep tinning shiny and clean and help
minimize flux buildup.
Ever use sandpaper, a file, or steel
wool to clean our iron-clad, nickelplated tips (N408I, N409I, N410I).
This will destroy the nickel plating
and the tip's protection against
oxidation & pitting.

(Image credit: Wikimedia Commons)

A solder wick is woven copper which the old solder bonds to. Its more expensive and its
expendable, so I usually dont recommend it. Some jobs, however, will greatly benefit from
the clean finishing touches that a solder wick provides. Both tools have their strong points, and
odds are that in your soldering career youll need to use one or the other specifically from time
to time. Having a clean working area is really important, as it provides the best results and
minimizes risk of damage.

Fine sandpaper or a fine file can be used on

our unplated soldering tip (N408X) to keep the
point sharp. Always re-tin immediatelyafter
sanding (after wiping on damp sponge first).
Do not leave the soldering iron on for
long periods of time (more than 30
minutes)
between
soldering
operations. This will extend the life

of the tips.
Do remember to wipe the tip on a dampened
sponge when you unplug your soldering iron. It
will be clean and ready the next time you power
it up.
Provide some type of support or restraint for
your hot iron & tip to prevent injury to them and
yourself. Our N40T4 Soldering Stand is an
excellent choice.
Everything You Need to Get Started Soldering
By Robet Cong
Soldering Equipment and Accessories
Soldering is real skill and the old saying "practice makes perfect" most certainly applies. For
those who have never soldered before, it can be intimidating dealing with high heat and
electronics, but there is nothing more rewarding than completing a clean soldering job.
Anyone can become a pro-solderer but it will take some practice.

40W High-Performance Soldering Iron XYTronic 200PHG-40W

Soldering stations come with a soldering stand and allow for temperature adjustment for more
precise controlled soldering. Stations will take up more space on your workbench, but they're
also much more convenient for bigger projects where you would need to use it on a consistent
basis. Most new soldering stations have a digital display showing the exact temperature of the
iron, but you can still find analog stations, which are usually available at a lower price. For
those who want a heavy-duty station, there are high-powered soldering/desoldering stations
with enough power to handle any job. They come equipped with everything you will need
except the solder.

It's time to graduate from wire-wrapping and get started in soldering. Step one is putting
together an electronics workbench with the right gear. This article will review the tools and
equipment
you'll
need
to
quickly
become
a
soldering
professional.

Soldering Irons and Stations

Choosing between a soldering iron and soldering station depends on how big of a project
you're working on and how much space you have available. Soldering irons are more
convenient for both small projects that require a few solder joints as well as fast and easy
storage.
35W SMD Tweezer Soldering Iron XYTronic TWZ236
Stand-alone soldering irons are powered by simply plugging into the wall outlet, which does
not allow users to adjust the temperature of the iron. Most soldering irons include a soldering
stand , but some may not. Stands are important for keeping the soldering tip clean and, of
course, for safety reasons (you wouldn't want an 800F iron balancing on the edge your desk).
Jameco carries a variety of soldering irons from butane-powered irons and SMD tweezer
irons to
the traditional
soldering
iron.

1.1 pound Solder Roll Jameco VP 8PK-033P

90W Digital Display Soldering Station XYTronic LF-3000 1

600W solder Pot Jameco BP KC100H-R

Soldering Accessories
There are plenty of accessories available to make your soldering experiences as fun, quick and
simple as possible.

900W Lead-Free Multifunction Rework Station XYTronic LF-853D

Solder
Solder comes in many shapes and sizes: solder bars, rolls, coils, just to name a few. The type
and composition of the solder is really all that matters. You can perform lead-free soldering if
your application calls for it, or you can go industrial-size and use some solder bars with a
solder pot. Solder pots can melt a larger quantity of solder and have it ready to be used
immediately. They are helpful with larger projects that require lots of solder.

Workstations such as third hands and vises keep your project board still and steady while you
handle the iron. Solder spool stands keep rolls of solder neatly in place while giving you
access to as much or as little as you want. Tweezers , strippers and cutters are available
individually or as sets so you can move the sensitive components on your board without
having to touch them with your bare hands.

Third Hand with Magnifying Lens

Jameco BP GCB-695

5-Foot Solder Wick

Circuit Board Holder Workstation

Panavise 333

High-Vacuum Manual Desolder Pump

Solder flux allows solder to flow more easily and creates better contact between the solder
and the board, which is especially helpful with surface-mount soldering.

There are also formula solder paste fluxes that help make desoldering and reworking easy. It
comes in a syringe with plunger and nozzle for easy and clean application. This quick video
demonstrates how easy it is to work with.

If you happen to make a mistake and need to desolder, Jameco has high-quality desolder
braids and desoldering pumps that will soak up the solder in seconds, leaving a nice clean
work surface.
Fume extractors take away the noxious fumes that soldering can produce. You should always
solder in a well-ventilated area whenever possible, but when it isn't, use a fume extractor,
or build your own fume extractor.

Rosin Flux Soldering Paste

22 Watt 115 CFM Fume Extractor

Soldering Safety
As with all electrical or mechanical devices, soldering stations and equipment must be handled
with care. The soldering iron and tip can reach extremely high temperatures and chemicals that
can be hazardous if not handled properly. Here are some simple safety precautions to follow:

DIY Fume Extractor Kit Jameco BP MINI FUME EXT

Soldering Tips
Soldering requires patience. Rushing it will only decrease the quality of the solder job. If
you're a beginner, take your time and be sure to add enough solder onto each joint without
overdoing it. A shiny solder joint with all edges clearly contacting the pad is always a good
sign. Having a clean solder tip is key to every job, so be sure to wipe clean the tip with a
wet sponge and/or a brass cleaner before and after each solder joint. Impurities are passed
from solder to tip every time they touch, so keep it clean.

Keep soldering station out of reach of children.

Never touch the element or tip of the soldering iron. They are very hot (200F and above)
and will cause immediate burns.
Keep a clean work surface and avoid having flammable material near the soldering station.
Be careful that the hot iron or tip does not touch any electrical cords.
Do not cool an iron by dipping it into any liquids or water.
Always work in a well ventilated area.
Always return the soldering iron to its stand when not in use. Never set it on your
workbench.
Turn off the soldering iron when not in use. Position the soldering iron in an area where you
won't have to go around it or reach over it.
With the advances in technology and the ability to fit millions of transistors and other
components on seemingly ever-shrinking circuit boards, the technological advancements in
soldering have also been upgraded. Soldering tips transfer heat more quickly and efficiently
and stations are much more accurate and reliable than ever before. Soldering equipment has
been improved along with technology in order to provide the best contact connections and
allow a smooth, efficient flow of electrons. So, even if you're advanced in soldering, you could
probably use some updated equipment to make your jobs even easier.
Search the entire line of soldering products, and as always, if you think we are missing
anything from the offering, feel free to send us a suggestion.

DeoxIT Tip Tinner Cleaner / Compound

What is solder made of?

A:
QUICK ANSWER
Solder is not the name of a particular metal. Solder is any soft metal used to join two harder
metals together via melting and fusing to the parts of the joint. Many different alloys and pure,
elemental metals are used for soldering. Many of the alloys combine some other metal with
lead, as lead is very soft and is easy to shape.
CONTINUE READING
KEEP LEARNING

What metals are used to make solder?

What is the name of the compound with the formula SrCl2?

Metal Wool Tip Cleaner XYTronic XYT 460

Why is the periodic table called the periodic table?

FULL ANSWER
Although lead is the most common component of the various kinds of solder, it is not the only
kind of metal commonly used. Tin is also a very common component of solder alloys, as it is
easy to shape, is stronger than lead, and lacks lead's toxic properties. Silver and copper are
other common metals, especially for brazing, a method that produces corrosion-resistant joints
at high temperature. Most solder alloys contain at least one of those four metals; many possess
them in combination. Zinc is another common component; zinc alloys are especially used as
solders for aluminum and steel.
One of the most common solder alloys in use is composed of 60 percent tin and 40 percent
lead. An alloy of 63 percent tin and 37 percent lead is commonly used for electrical work.
Prior to 1986, the most popular solder used for joining plumbing pipes in the United States
was an alloy made of half tin and half lead. Due to legal restrictions on this solder with high
lead content, lead-free alloys have become more popular in plumping applications since then.
LEARN MORE ABOUT CHEMISTRY
Welding and soldering

by Chris Woodford. Last updated: August 17, 2016.

If you're building almost anything that uses metal, from a nuclear submarine to a laptop
computer, one thing you'll need to be able to do is join metalstogether. Welding is a way of
tightly bonding two metals by melting them where they meet, while soldering involves
making a joint between components in an electric or electronic circuit. Both are highly
effective, though they're very different and work in completely different waysdon't mix
them up!
Photo: Arc welding uses electricity to generate intense heat that fuses metals together. It
generates very bright light as well as intense heat; that's why welders need to wear protective
masks. Photo by Joshua C. Kinter courtesy US Navy.
What is welding?

Photo: Although welding and soldering can look similar, they do completely different things.
Top: This welded joint mechanically fixes two pieces of metal together in a T-shape. Photo by
Brian Hibben courtesy of US Navy. Bottom: These soldered joints on the back of a printed
circuit board make a reliable electrical connection between the components and the tracks on
the board that join them together. Photo by explainthatstuff.com.
You can't really join metals with adhesivenot with ordinary glue, anyway. But you can join
them by melting them together in a process known as welding. The basic idea is simple: you
apply a source of heat to melt the two metals so they fuse and form a secure joint. Usually
(though not always) you add other materials as you apply the heat: a filler (an extra piece of
metal, supplied from something called a welding rod, which seals up any gaps where the main
metals meet) and a flux (a nonmetallic chemical that helps to stop the molten metals forming
oxides and nitrides with gases in the air, which weakens the joint). As an alternative to using a
flux, you can weld in an atmosphere from which the air has been removed (filled with other,
nonreactive gases such as argon, for example).
Most forms of welding involve joining metals with heat alone. But they differ in where the
heat comes from. One common form of welding involves using an oxyacetylene gas torch,
which makes an intense flame by burning acetylene (an energy-rich fuel made from a simple
hydrocarbon molecule) in a rich supply of oxygen. Although convenient and portable,

oxyacetylene torches are relatively expensive to use (because the fuel is supplied in gas
cylinders). In factories, it's usually more convenient to weld with electrical power using a
technique known as arc welding. Instead of a gas torch, you use a piece of metal called
an electrode connected to a high-current power supply (hundreds of times higher than the
ones that flow through appliances in your home). As you bring the electrode up to the joint
you're welding, it creates a spark or arc that melts the metals together. Arc welding produces
both bright visible sparks and discharges of ultraviolet light, both of which can lead to
blindness; that's why you'll always see people arc welding behind wraparound protective
visors. Other heat sources for precision welding include ultrasonics, lasers,
and electron beams.
You can also weld materials by forcing them together through sheer pressure, with or without
extra heat. This is known as pressure welding; used for many hundreds of years by
blacksmiths and other artisans, it's one of the oldest metalworking techniques. The basic
process involves heating metals in a forge and then hammering them together so they fuse.
One way to make arc welding safer is to get an industrial robot to do it for you. Car bodies
have been welded by robots for decades. The first welding robot, the Unimate, made its debut
in a General Motors plant in 1961.
What is soldering?
Soldering looks similar to weldingbut it's quite different! In welding, you're trying to make
a super-strong joint between two pieces of metal. Often a welded joint has to stand up to
incredible stresses and strainsfor example, if you weld parts of a car body or
an airplane fuselage together. So the objective is to make a good mechanical connection.
When you solder, the idea is usually to to make a good electrical connection.
Solder looks a bit like an unwrapped paperclip, though it's much softer, and it generally comes
in tubes and reels. It's an alloy of different metals that has a relatively low melting point. The
solder I use, which is typical, is made of 99.25 percenttin and 0.75 percent copper, though
other metals such as zinc, silver, and bismuth are also used. (Lead was once widely used in
solders with tin, but has now been largely phased out for health reasons). Solders sometimes
also contain fluxes to prevent the formation of oxides.

Photo: Solder looks and feels like a length of paperclip that's been unwrapped and then coiled
up in a plastic dispenser tube like this one. You pull out a short length as you need it. This is
lead-free solder made mostly from tin and copper.
Why do you need to solder? Electronic circuits are made of discrete components: tiny devices
such as resistors, capacitors, transistors, and LEDs that do specific jobs. When you put them
together in different ways, you can build all kinds of amazing electronic gadgets,
from radios and televisions to calculators and computers. The components all have little metal
legsterminals that you use to connect them into the circuits. You could just wire these legs
together with electrical cables, but the wires might drop off or wriggle free and the
connections wouldn't be reliable, so anything you built this way wouldn't work very well. And
that's where solder comes in: it makes a much more effective electrical connection.
If you want to make a good soldered joint, you don't solder straight away. First, you clean the
components you want to join (for example, by scraping them with a knife to remove any
surface oxides). Then you make a good mechanical connection between them (by wrapping
the cable tightly round the component or whatever). Only then do you make a
good electrical connection by melting some solder on top.

Brazing is a similar process to soldering except that the filler you use (equivalent to solder)
works much more like an adhesive. When you solder, you're simply melting a low-temperature
alloy on top of the terminals you're joining together to make a reliable electrical bridge
between them. The terminals themselves don't actually melt and aren't usually changed in any
way: the solder just sits on top. But when you braze, you work at a much higher temperature.
The filler melts and seeps right into the surface of the metals you're joining, so it binds them
together securely. Brazing is thus a bit like a cross between welding and soldering and it's
mainly concerned with making a secure mechanical joint.

How does it work in practice? You melt the solder over a joint by applying a hot tool called
a soldering iron (essentially a hot piece of metal with a pointed tip, with the heat generated
inside it by an electrically powered heating element). It's very important to note that solder
is not glue: it is not designed to make a mechanical connection. If you rely on solder alone to
fasten two wires together, they'll probably break apart sooner or later. It's important to make a
good mechanical connection and then solder on top. There are good and bad ways to solder,
some of which make poor joints that don't conduct electricity properly. (For example, if you
move a soldered connection while the solder is still molten, you will generally get a badly
formed or cold joint, which will be dull-colored, irregular, and pitted.) If you plan on doing
your own electronic projects, the first thing to do is learn how to solder properly. You'll find a
couple of handy demonstration videos in the "Find out more" section at the end of this article.
Photo: Left: A typical soldering ironthe one I've owned since I was about 14! A soldering
iron is essentially just a heating element powered by electricity that has a robust outer case
(the bit) designed to withstand endless heating and cooling. Bits are designed to be
interchangeable and come with wider or narrower ends for work of different precision. The
other essential component (top right) is a stand where you can safely rest your iron though, if
you look closely, you'll notice that this iron has a curved clip on it (just above the black rubber
finger grip) for resting or propping it up. Since I'm using a UK electrical supply, I've fitted a
red indicator light to the plug (top left) to help me remember when the iron is switched on, for
added safety.
Photo: Right: And here's my soldering iron in action. You solder by holding your hot soldering
iron to the joint in your circuit where you want to make an electrical connection. Then, with
your other hand, you apply the solder until it melts in a blob on top of the joint, usually with a
puff of "smoke" (actually the metals in the solder turning into gas form).
What is brazing?

Overview: What is soldering and when should you use it?

Soldering is a process in which two or more metal items are joined together by
melting and then flowing a filler metal into the jointthe filler metal having a
relatively low melting point.

Soldering is used to form a permanent connection between electronic components.

The metal to be soldered is heated with a soldering iron and then solder is melted
into the connection.
o Only the solder melts, not the parts that are being soldered.
o Solder is a metallic "glue" that holds the parts together and forms a
connection that allows electrical current to flow.

You can use a solderless breadboard to make test circuits, but if you want your
circuit to last for more than a few days, you will want to solder the components
together.
Materials and Equipment

A soldering iron
o A soldering iron is used to heat the connections to be soldered.
o For electronic circuits, you should use a 25- to 40-watt (W) soldering iron.
o Higher wattage soldering irons are not necessarily hotter; they are just able
to heat larger components. A 40-W soldering iron makes joints faster than
a 25-W soldering iron does.
o A soldering iron can be purchased at hardware stores and at most large
department stores.

Rosin core solder

o Solder has a lower melting point than the metals that are being connected
do. The solder melts when it is heated by the soldering iron, but the metals
being joined will not melt.
o The rosin core acts as a flux. It prevents oxidation of the metals that are
being connected, and enhances the ability of the solder to "wet" the
surfaces that are being joined.
o Solder that is used to join copper pipes has an acid core, which is
appropriate for pipes, but will corrode electronic connections. Use solder
that has a rosin core.
o For most electronics work, a solder with a diameter of 0.75 millimeters
(mm) to 1.0 mm is best. Thicker solder might make soldering small joints

difficult and also increases the chances of creating solder bridges between
copper pads that are not meant to be connected.
o An alloy of 60/40 (60% tin, 40% lead) is used for most electronics work,
but lead-free solders are available as well.
Stand on which to hold the hot soldering iron
o There are a variety of stands available. It is important to always keep the
hot iron in its stand when not in use.
Sponge
o The damp sponge is used to clean the tip of the iron.

Steel wool or fine sandpaper

o This is used to clean connections prior to soldering.
o Solder will not flow over a dirty connection.
Crocodile clips
o These can be used as heat sinks, if needed.

Safety Precautions
1. Caution: A soldering iron can heat to around 400C, which can burn you or start a

fire, so use it carefully.

2. Unplug the iron when it is not in use.
3. Keep the power cord away from spots where it can be tripped over.
4. Take great care to avoid touching the tip of the soldering iron on a power line. If a
power cord is touched by a hot iron, there is a serious risk of burns and electric
shock.
5. Always return the soldering iron to its stand when it is not in use.
6. Never put the soldering iron down on your work bench, even for a moment!
7. Work in a well-ventilated area.
8. The smoke that will form as you melt solder is mostly from the flux and can be quite
irritating. Avoid breathing it by keeping your head to the side of, not above, your
work.
9. Solder contains lead, which is a poisonous metal. Wash your hands after using
solder.
Tips
Reliable operation of a circuit with soldered connections depends on good soldering practices.
Here are some tips for successful soldering.
1. Plan before you start to solder. Identify all the parts that you will be using.
2. It is helpful to attach each part to a piece of paper and write what it is and its value
(for example, resistor #1: 100 ohms).
3. Some components, such as LED's, must be placed the correct way around in order to
function.
4. The following is a suggested order for the installation of various components:
oiled inside a plastic tube; it is pulled through the top as needed. The spring on the stand holds the hot soldering iron. The
o Integrated circuit (IC) holders (note the orientation). The IC will be added
e soldering iron. The wire strippers can be adjusted to strip the plastic covering off of various thicknesses of wire. The
later.

Solder braid
o Resistors
o This is used to remove solder.
o Capacitors, less than 1 micro farad
o To use the braid, place it over the solder to be removed and heat it from
o Large capacitors, 1 micro farad or greater, note the orientation.
above with the iron. The solder will flow into the braid.
o Diodes, note the orientation.
o Solder braid is used to extract an electronic component that is soldered
o LED's, note the orientation.
onto a board.
o Transistors, note the orientation.
o It is also used to reduce the amount of solder on a connection.
o Solid wire connections between components on the board

Prototype board

Solid wire is fairly rigid, so it will stay in place once attached.

o A prototype board is used to assemble the circuit. The board shown is
o Stranded wire to parts that are connected by wire to the circuit
from www.protostack.com, but Jameco Electronics also supplies prototype

Stranded wire is more flexible than solid wire.

boards.
o Integrated circuits
o Prototype boards have copper tracks or pads for connecting components.

Connect them the correct way around.

Many IC's are static sensitive.
Leave IC's in their antistatic packaging until you need them,
then ground your hands by touching a metal water pipe or
window frame before touching the IC's.
Carefully insert IC's in their holders. Make sure all the pins are
lined up with the socket, then push down firmly with your
thumb.

Preparing the Soldering Iron:The

Tinning
tip ofthe
theTip
soldering iron heats both the copper pad and the lead from the electronic component. Solder melts when placed in contact with the hot metals to be joined.
1. Place the soldering iron in its stand and plug it in.
3. Keep the soldering tip on the connection as the solder is applied.
2. Wait for the soldering iron to heat up.
o Solder will flow into and around well-heated connections.
3. Moisten the sponge.
o Use just enough solder to form a strong connection.
4. Wipe the tip of the iron on the damp sponge. This will clean the tip.
4. Remove the tip from the connection as soon as the solder has flowed where you
5. Melt a little solder on the tip of the iron.
want it to be. Remove the solder, then the iron.
o This is called tinning and it will help the heat flow from the iron's tip to
5. Don't move the connection while the solder is cooling.
the joint.
6. Don't overheat the connection, as this might damage the electrical component you
o The solder should flow onto the tip, producing a bright shiny surface.
are soldering.
o If the solder will not flow onto the tip, clean it by wiping it on the wet
o Transistors and some other components can be damaged by heat when
sponge.
soldering. A crocodile clip can be used as a heat sink to protect these
o When tinned, wipe excess solder off on the wet sponge.
components.
o You do not need to tin the tip before every joint, but you should re-tin it if
it has gone dull when the soldering iron has not been used for a few
minutes.
o Check the manufacturer's instructions related to tinning the tip.
6. The tip of the soldering iron should be a shiny silver color. If it is black and pitted,
replace it with a new one.
Soldering
1. Solder needs a clean surface on which to adhere.
o Buff the copper foil of a PC board with steel wool before soldering.
heat,wax,
the crocodile
will reduce
thewool,
heat that
o Remove By
anyabsorbing
oil, paint,
etc. withclip
a solvent,
steel
or flows
fine to the component, helping to prevent damage.
7. Soldering a connection should take just a few seconds.
sandpaper.
o If it is taking longer, see the troubleshooting section below.
2. To solder, heat the connection with the tip of the soldering iron for a few seconds,
8.
Inspect
the joint closely. It should look shiny.
then apply the solder.
o
If you are soldering a wire (called the lead) onto a PC board (on the track),
o Heat the connection, not the solder.
it should have a volcano shape. See Figure 3.
o Hold the soldering iron like a pen, near the base of the handle.
o
If the connection looks bad, reheat it and try again.
o Both parts that are being soldered have to be hot to form a good
connection.

The solder in a good join will be shaped like a cone, with solid contact between the solder and all surfaces to be joined. Bad joins (also called dry joins) should be melted and remade
9. Wipe the tip of the iron on a damp sponge to clean it. The tip should now be shiny.
10. Unplug the soldering iron when it is not in use.
Common Problems and Troubleshooting
1. Solder will not flow.
o The parts to be joined may be dirty. Remove the solder and clean the parts.
2. The connection looks grainy or crystalline.
o Parts were moved before the solder was allowed to cool.
o Reheat to form a good joint. You may need a larger soldering iron to heat
connections adequately.
3. The tip is oxidized.
o Soldering is much easier with a shiny, clean tip.
o Clean the tip with a damp synthetic sponge while the iron is hot.
o To avoid oxidizing the tip, do not leave the iron plugged in when not in
use.
o Do not use the iron at a higher temperature than is necessary to melt
solder.
o Clean the tip of the iron on a damp synthetic sponge as soon as it starts to
change from a silver color.
4. There is too much or too little solder.
o Using too much solder can cause a solder bridge, which means that two
adjacent joints are accidentally connected.
o Using too little solder might result in poor electrical continuity between
the board and component. The connection should be smooth, shiny, and
rigid
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.

WHAT IS SOLDERING? GOOD SOLDERING - BAD SOLDERING

V. Ryan 2013

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What is Soldering?
Soldering - a must skill for all electrical and electronic works. Soldering is defined as the
process of joining two pieces of metals using a filler metal, known as solder, having a low
melting point below the melting point of the work piece. It is often confused with welding but
the difference between them is, in soldering the work piece is not melted, they are joined using
a filler metal, but in welding work piece is joined by melting.

material. The melting point of the filler material should be below 400 oC (752oF). It uses gas
torch as the heat source.

History
Soldering was practiced as far back as 5000 years ago in Egypt. Soldering was widely
performed around 4000 years ago when tin was discovered as soldering metal. The process of
soldering was introduced in Mediterranean region, and was followed in the Roman Empire,
Swiss and Hungaria. Soldering has improved a lot from culture to culture and generation to
generation and in todays scenario it is the best method for fabrication and assembly of
microelectronics.

Types of Soldering
Soldering is classified as shown in the image below:

1. Soft soldering
It is a process for joining small intricate parts having low melting points which damages
when soldering process is carried out at high temperature. It uses tin-lead alloy as filler

2. Hard soldering
In this process, hard solder connects two pieces of metals by expanding into the pores of the
work piece opened by high temperature. The filler material possess high temperature above
450oC (840oF).
It comprises of two parts namely silver soldering and brazing.
2.1 Silver soldering
It is a clean process useful for fabricating small fittings, doing odd repairs and making tools. It
uses an alloy containing silver as filler material. Silver provides free flowing characteristics
but silver solder is not good at gap filling hence, different fluxes are recommended for
precised silver solder.

2.2 Brazing
Brazing is a process of joining two pieces of base metals by creating melted metallic filler that
flows by capillary attraction across the joints and cools to form a solid bond through atomic
attraction and diffusion. It creates an extremely strong joint. It uses brass alloy as filler
material.