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IN THE CENTRO STORICO (historic center) -- Piazza Navona,Pantheon, etc.

Gelateria del Teatro - Via di San Simone, 70, just off the pedestrianized Via dei Coronari, between Piazza
Navona and the Lungotevere Marzio.
Giolitti - Via Uffici del Vicario 40, close to the Pantheon and to Montecitorio. This is a very old
establishment -- it opened in 1900 -- and is often voted best ice cream in local polls.
Alberto Pica - Via della Seggiola 12, on the edge of the Ghetto not far from Torre Argentia and Campo de'
Fiori. Mr. Pica happens to be the president of the Associazione Italiana Gelatieri, the fruit flavors here
(particularly the apricot and wild strawberry) are wonderful. The riso (rice) gelatos are also reliable.
San Crispino - Via della Panetteria 42, very close to the Trevi Fountain, is consistently good. Opens at 11
am. A rave review ten years ago in the New York Times raised this gelateria's profile and it remains wildly
popular with tourists; there are often lines out the door. Inside, the gelatos are stored in stainless steel bins
with lids -- they take ice cream very seriously here and won't serve it to you in a cone, claiming the taste of
the cone interferes with the taste of the gelato. In general, flavors are creamier and more ice-cream like
than some gelatos; the. signature flavor is crema with honey.
Della Palma - 20/23 Via della Maddalena, near the Pantheon - the Baskin Robbins of Rome, with
countless flavors and varieties (lots of soy choices, frozen yogurt, etc.)
TERMINI STATION Area
Fassi - Via Principe Eugenio, 65, off Piazza Vittorio. Fassi (a.k.a. Il Palazzo del Freddo) first opened in
1880 and claims to be the oldest and largest gelateria in Italy. The shop is worth a visit: the ice cream is still
made the traditional way, prices are low and servings are generous, Also features fruit ice and novelties like
micione (ice cream sandwiches that will make you "lick your whiskers.")
IN TRASTEVERE (across the Tiber from the Centro Storico)
Fior di Luna - Via della Lungaretta, 96. In the heart of Trastevere, the hip, picturesque shopping and
nightclubbing district just across the Tiber from Rome proper, this popular artisinal gelateria relies on
organic and fair-trade ingredients to produce its intensely-flavored treats. It also offers gelatos made without
added sugar, sorbets, frozen yogurt, granite and chocolates. The vanilla and chocolate flavors are truly
excellent. Note: Fior di Luna is thoroughly committed to fresh, seasonal fruits, which means no strawberry
gelato in winter -- though the cioccolato caldo makes up for that.
Da Checco - Via Benedetta 7, behind Piazza Trilussa, in Trastevere. This bar-pasticceria-gelateria belongs
to the Porcellis, who for three generations have operated their restaurant -- Checco er Carettiere -- next
door at 10 - 13 Via Benedetta. Their delicious and genuine gelato, made in-house from fresh ingredients, is
a reliable option if you're in Trastevere, while their granita di caffe is up there with the best in the city.
IN THE VATICAN AREA (and north into the Prati shopping district and beyond)
Gelarmony - Via Marcantonio Colonna, 34 (just north of Piazza Cola di Rienzo) - Sicilian gelato is often
considered the best in Italy, and that's what this gelateria makes. The sixty flavors include an outstanding
coconut, citrusy "Vitamine Etna" and a wide variety of intensely-flavored fruit gelatos, plus soy gelato and
frozen yogurts. Granita is worth the trip alone; locals cite the mandorla (almond) flavor as one of the best.

Also offers cannoli, cassata siciliana (a ricotta-cake dessert) and the Sicilian tradition of gelato served in a
warm brioche bun.
Al Settimo Gelo - Via Vodice 21a, in the Piazza Mazzini neighborhood north of PratiFlavors include visciole
(sour cherry), iraniano (with rose-water, almonds and saffron), greco (with yogurt, honey and pine-nuts) and
several varieties of chocolate including one with peperoncini (hot peppers).
Antonini - Via Sabotino 21-29. A favorite with locals, Antonini has one of the best selections of pastries in
Rome, and their Zabaione gelato is simply the best
Gelateria dei Gracchi - Via dei Gracchi 272 (original branch in quartiere Nomentana, on Viale de Regina
Margherita, 212) offers truly exceptional gelato, with gourmet flavors such as dark chocolate with Grand
Marnier, or ricotta and pear, or pine nut - as well as favorites like gianduia (chocolate hazelnut) or
straciatella (cream with streaks of chocolate). The nuts for the hazelnut, almond and pistachio varieties are
roasted and ground on site. one block up from the Piazza Cola di Rienzo, right around the corner
from Gelarmony.
Fatamorgana - Via Giovanni Bettolo 7. See listing under "Other."
FLAMINIO (north of the Centro Storico)
Neve di Latte - Via Luigi Poletti, 6, in the MAXXI/AUDITORIUM neighborhood. This might be Rome's most
perfectionist gelateria. Most ingredients are organic; all are high-end. Coffee gelato? The friendy owner
makes it (in tiny batches) with Jamaican Blue Mountain. Vanilla with cognac? The cognac is Hine, from
France -- the 1957 vintage. Depending on the variety, chocolate gelato may be made with Chuao, Amadei,
or Domori chocolates. If you want more information and can read Italian, check the web site: it offers 55 (!)
pages of information on chocolate alone. Mind-blowingly intense flavors justify the higher prices and the
extra effort of getting here. Closed Tuesdays.
OTHER (south-east of the Centro Storico)
Mela e Cannella - Via Oderisi da Gubbio, 71, in the Marconi neighborhood. The chocolate gelato (made
with Belgian chocolate) at this new-ish artisinal gelateria is easily some of the best in the city and locals
come from around Rome for a fix. The mandorla, starring almonds from Puglia and Sicily, is equally
dreamy. Try the namesake flavor: apple and cinnamon; other standouts include pistachio, crema al vino
porto (cream of port wine) and malaga (rum and raisin).Young, friendly, enthusiastic staff.
Fatamorgana - locations at Via di Lago di Lesina 9/11 (in Nemorense) and Via G. Bettolo 7 (Prati) A big
selection of all-natural, creative flavors like "Kentucky" (chocolate with tobacco), "Estasi" ("Ecstasy" -chocolate with hazelnut and rum) or an unexpected blend of fennel, licorice and honey will have you weak
at the knees; contrary to popular wisdom that a gelateria can be good at either cream or fruit flavors,
Fatamorgana excels at both
Greed - via Vestricio Spurinna 97/99 (metro A Numidio Quadrato). Very simple gelateria for a gorgeous
gelato certified by the Gambero Rosso. All natural ingredients and the mastery of the chef result in a superb
ice-cream. Available gluten and milk free ice-creams.

Near the Pantheon: Da Remos


Via Pi di Marmo, 32
Open daily for lunch. Closed on Sundays
Cost: 2-4 a slice (depending on the size and toppings)
Tip: Head to Remos before 1 p.m., before the school crowd gets there.
Some of Remos specialties are capricciosa (pizza with cheese, egg, ham, olive and
artichokes), salame (pepperoni), and pomodori con rucola (cheese with tomatoes and arugula). In the fall
and winter when its in season, Remo (the pizza butcher) makes a nice pizza with zucca (pumpkin).
Zucchero Farina
Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 105. Just a bit further away from the Pantheon, near Via Giulia heading toward the
Vatican area
Open daily for lunch. Closed on Sundays
Cost: 3-5 a slice (depending on the size and toppings)
Tip: Top off your pizza with one of their pastries, which are to die for!

Pizzeria da Remo
Piazza Santa Maria Liberatrice 44, 00153 Rome, Italy
+39065746270
Price range: $9 - $20 (7-15)
PIZZERIA DA BAFFETTO
Via del Governo Vecchio 114

EST! EST! EST! DEI FRATELLI RICCI


Via Genova 32

DAR POETA
Vicolo del Bologna 45
Rome 00153

POPI POPI
Via delle Fratte di Trastevere HOURS:Fri-Wed 7pm-11pm

"Navona Notte", near Piazza Navona, is one of the best places in the center for good quality and price. The
cheapest eat is at Termini Station in the "larga caf" where you can get good pastas.
My favorite Rome Restaurants are: Alfredo alla Scrofa (the pasta), Alberto Ciarla in Trastevere (Nouvelle
Cuisine Fish), Bastianelli al Molo in Fiumicino - by the airport (fresh fish from the local catch), Shangri La
all' EUR (the Buffet and pasta, in addition to VIPs you meet).
For value for money I usually go to:
Vatican area: the Ristochicco, Borgo Pio 186, or a little more sophisticated the nearby Al Passetto di
Borgo or Massa just round the corner. When I'm at the fashionable Via Veneto area: the Ristorante
Mariano, via Piemonte 79; a little more upscale is the Girarrosto Fiorentino in via Sicilia.
Pizzerias: Montecarlo (the one near Corso Vittorio Emanuele), Ivo in Trastevere.
stay away from the restaurants in the touristy areas. They will be expensive and the food will be mediocre.
great little pizzeria on the Via Principe Amadeo, just southeast of Via Viminale, by Termini Stazione. It's
called Est Est Est! Via Genova 32

restaurant Pastarito Pizzarito, Via cola di rienzo, 18, 00192 Roma


it's a local pasta pizza chain

Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano

Grab a bargain at San Giovannis market.


A must-visit. The basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano (Basilica of St. John
Lateran), pictured above, is Romes only official cathedral, and thus could be
considered the big daddy of all basilicas. The bishop of Rome (the Pope) counts
this as his church, and as a result it ranks higher than other churches in the
Roman Catholic Church. The church was originally constructed by Constantine
the Great in the fourth century.
Piazza San Giovanni. Open every day 7:00 AM 6:30 PM
2. San Giovanni Clothing Market
Head for the San Giovanni clothing market to find very cheap new and used
clothing. The market features plenty of stalls to pick through. Youre destined to
find a bargain or two.
Via Sannio. Open daily, except Sunday. 8:00 AM 2:00 PM

Tiramisu at Pompi. The best in Rome?


3. Tiramisu stop

Armed with bags of new (and used) clothing, head down the road, near Re di
Roma, to Pompi.

4. Cakes and tiramisu

To get the veins buzzing, head toPompi at Piazza dei Re di Roma, one metro stop from San Giovanni.
Pompi is a cafe, gelateria, and pastry shop but Romans flock here for its tiramisu. Enjoy the creamy,
espresso-laden dessert, which means "pick-me-up" in Italian, in any of Pompi's three flavours: banana,
strawberry or classic. Pompi also boasts Italian pastries such as bign, cassata siciliana, pannacotta,
and cannoli. And, rare for Rome, it's open until 1:30am, making it a great spot for a late-night snack.
Via Albalonga 7B/9/11. +39 06 7000418, barpompi.it. Closed Mondays.
5. Aperitivo

Rome imported aperitivo the 8pm spread of food that whets the appetite from northern Italy. Even
Romans, therefore, tend to admit that their city hasn't really figured it out yet. But they agree on one
exception: Freni e Frizione. Housed in a former garage in Rome's trendy Trastevere neighbourhood
(hence the name: "Brakes and Clutches"), it's always crammed with the city's young and hip, taking
advantage of its buffet offerings such as hummus and couscous, not to mention its top-notch mojitos.
Via del Politeama 4/6. freniefrizioni.com, +39 06 45497499. Aperitivo from 7pm-10:30pm, drinks from
6:30pm-2am. Open daily.

6. Cucina romana

Located in the gritty, graffiti-daubed neighbourhood of San Lorenzo, Il Pommidoro has been run by
the same family since opening in 1926. It dishes up real Roman food for real Roman prices, such as
pasta carbonara for 8. With such hearty local dishes as pappardelle with wild-boar ragu, grilled
sweetbreads, or pajata (the cooked intestines of milk-fed calves), it's not one for vegetarians or the
squeamish. (It does, however, offer a lengthy list of fish dishes). Instead, Il Pommidoro is the place to
try authentic cucina romana without emptying your wallet or hearing a word of English spoken.
Piazza dei Sanniti 44. +39 06 4452692. Closed Sundays.

7. Pasta

Trastevere's Roma Sparita serves excellent fritti, pizza, and meat and fish, but it's most famous for its
traditional Roman dish of cacio e pepe (pasta with pecorino romano sheep cheese and black pepper).
And with reason. Don't let the simplicity of this dish fool you. Done Roma Sparita-style and served in a
fried parmesan basket as the final flourish, you'll be dreaming about it long after you've left the city.
This restaurant, overlooking one of Trastevere's pretty piazzas, is always packed with Romans
tourists have yet to discover it. That makes its name particularly apt: "Roma Sparita," which used to be
a nickname for all of Trastevere, literally meaning "disappeared," or undiscovered, Rome.
Piazza Santa Cecilia 24. +39 06 5800757, romasparita.com. Closed Sundays for dinner and
Mondays all day.
8. Regional cuisine

Palatium restaurant, Rome Photograph: Amanda


Ruggeri
When locals want a taste of Lazio beyond Rome's borders, they flock to the Spanish Steps' Palatium.
The restaurant is a chic change from Rome's traditional, checkered-tablecloth trattorias. It's also
slightly pricier (pastas are around 10, mains 15), but justifiably so: run by the Lazio Regional
Authority, Palatium showcases more than 1,000 Lazio products in delicious, traditional dishes with a
twist, such as ricotta-and-mint ravioli. Book in advance.
Via Frattina 94. +39 06 69202132, enotecapalatium.it. Closed Sundays.
9. Pizzeria

Sure, you can get good pizza in the city centre at guidebook favourites Da Baffetto or La Montecarlo.
But to eat top-notch pizza without other tourists crowding your table, head to San Lorenzo's Formula
Uno, where the crust is thin and crispy and the prices are dirt cheap (where else can you get an
ingredient-laden pizza capriciossa for 6?). A bonus: unlike most pizzerias, Formula Uno whose
name and decor pay homage to the Italians' love affair with car racing is open for lunch, too.
Via degli Equi 13. +39 06 4453866. Closed Sundays.
Campo dei Fiori market

Those looking for the best fruit and vegetables will find them at this vibrant market. Two stallholders,
Claudio and Maria, have the widest choice of early and late produce. Viola, the small norcineria
(butcher) behind Maria, is festooned with sausages, salami and all cuts of pork. Every morning they
prepare a plate of salamis for customers to sample. Il Fiorentino is also a very good butcher serving
prepared dishes as well as good meat. Il Forno is a small bread shop that it seems as if all of Rome
tries to crowd into to buy the crisp pizza bianca or the long sheets of pizza with delectable toppings.
Good cakes too. Ruggiero is a quality alimentari selling soaked salt cod and chickpeas for the Roman
Friday special.

10 of the best pizza places in Rome


Rome-based food blogger Katie Parla eats her way around the Italian capital's tastiest pizzerias

Sforno
Hop off the Metro A near its southeastern end and walk a few blocks northeast for what many tout
as Rome's best pizza. At Sforno, the pizzas have a thick rim and elastic body (similar to the Neapolitan
style), an anatomy that is essential for containing their dense toppings. But before jumping into the
pizza, begin with fritti (fried starters), like suppli' alla gricia, a fried rice ball with cured pork jowl,
pecorino cheese, and black pepper, a combination inspired by a Roman pasta. The cacio e pepepizza
also takes its cue from a local pasta dish; it is topped with a thick layer of pecorino cheese and
coarsely ground black pepper. Wash it down with one of the dozens of craft beers on Sforno's menu.
Via Statilio Ottato 110-116; +39 06 715 46118, sforno.it. Closed Sun; dinner only
Antico Forno Roscioli

Photograph
: parlafood.com

Three generations of Rosciolis have prepared some of Rome's best and most-loved bread in this
historic bakery between Largo Argentina and Campo de' Fiori. Their pizza bianca, a sort of Roman
flatbread brushed with olive oil, is a cult favourite and is consumed by school children, labourers,
young professionals, tourists and grannies with equal gusto. The recipe is simple, combining organic
flour, water, salt, yeast and sugar, and the Rosciolis have mastered it, producing a classic snack that is
soft and chewy on the inside, crispy on the bottom and lightly toasted on the top. Order it from the
counter on the right as you walk in, but don't wait to eat it it is best when it's fresh. Say "mangio
caminando" and you will receive your pizza bundled in paper, ready to eat.
Via dei Chiavari 21, +39 06 687 5287, salumeriaroscioli.com. Closed Sun, Sat afternoons in the
summer
Forno Campo de' Fiori

Photograph
: Yukino Miyazawa on Flickr/Some rights reserved
A short walk from Roscioli, another historic address (and one run by another branch of the Roscioli
family), turns out crispy pizza bianca and thin pizza rossa (flatbread topped with tomato sauce). If
Forno Campo de' Fiori and Antico Forno Roscioli competed for the Roman pizza primacy, the former
would win for rossa, while the latter would snag it for bianca. The neighbouring annexe across the alley
(Vicolo del Gallo, 14) serves sandwiches and baked goods. Drop in during August and September for a
taste of the seasonal treat pizza prosciutto e fichi, pizza bianca filled with savory slices of prosciutto
and sweet, overripe figs.
Piazza Campo de' Fiori, +39 06 688 06662, fornocampodefiori.com. Closed Sun, Sat afternoon in
summer

La Gatta Mangiona

Photograph
: parlafood.com
On the surface, La Gatta Mangiona looks like any other neighbourhood pizza place. But upon closer
examination, the dishes on offer reveal themselves to be carefully studied exercises in flavour
contrasts and gastronomic history. The potato croquettes incorporate leeks, cod, and lemon zest, while
the suppli' con ragu bianco are made with an 18th-century Neapolitan meat sauce recipe. The pizza
ranges from the traditional margherita to the rare scozzese (potato, salmon, mozzarella and parsley),
but all are made with the same long-leavening high-quality dough. The wine list includes 200 labels,
there are 70 types of craft beers to choose from, and the grappa and whisky list surpass that of most
Roman restaurants.
Via F Ozanam, 30-32, +39 06 534 6702, lagattamangiona.com. Closed Mon; dinner only

Da Remo

Photograph
: parlafood.com
Arrive at this classic Roman pizzeria before 8pm or be prepared to queue for its scrocchiarella (crispy
thin crust) Roman-style pizza. Take a pass on the fritti, which are nothing much to write home about,
and start with a plate of beans instead, the old-school approach to Roman pizza meals. The flat and
crispy pizzas, which are made in a wood-burning oven, are designed to hold few toppings meaning
here it's the simple pizzas that are best. The margherita and marinara pies are consistently excellent
and served by brisk, casual waiters who are quick to flirt and crack jokes. There is outdoor seating in
the summer, a veritable necessity considering the heat of the pizza oven.
Piazza Santa Maria della Liberatrice 44; +39 06 574 6270. Closed Sun; dinner only
La Fucina

Photograph
: parlafood.com

La Fucina, which opened in the Portuenese neighbourhood in southern Rome in 2009, serves pizza a
degustazione. That is, patrons each order a pizza and the pies arrive pre-sliced one at a time so diners
can share. This may not seem like a revolutionary concept, but it completely diverges from the
traditional Italian approach of each person ordering his or her own personal pizza, which arrive at the
same time, unsliced. With unusual selections like courgette flowers, red shrimp, mozzarella, and cured
pork fat, or mortadella and Sicilian pistacchios, sharing is a pleasure, and gives guests the opportunity
to try topping combinations that are completely unique in Rome. There is also an impressive wine list
and proprietor Edoardo Papa will gladly help you pair the correct wine with your meal.
Via Giuseppe Lunati, 25/31, +39 06 559 3368, pizzerialafucina.it. Closed Sun; dinner only
Life Pizzeria Bio

Photograph
: parlafood.com
Life Pizzeria, which recently opened in Rome's northern periphery, is the city's first organic pizzeria.
Among the selection of pizza and calzones, there are several proposals for vegan variations, virtually
unheard of on Roman menus. Vegetarian options, including pizza with mozzarella, courgettes and
onions, are made with local, seasonal toppings. The occasional imported ingredient works its way in,
as in the salmone controcorrente with salmon, mozzarella, rocket, and ginger or "Eros" with tomato,
chili pepper, basil and dark chocolate powder.
Via Cassia 701, +39 06 332 65318, lifepizzeriabio.com. Closed Mon, dinner only

Li Rioni

Photograph
: parlafood.com
A small wood-burning oven at the back of the pizzeria turns out hundreds of thin crust Roman-style
pizzas every night. This busy neighbourhood pizzeria located just a few blocks from the Colosseum
sees its share of tourists early on, but from 9pm until midnight hungry locals show up in droves and
queue for tables. In the summer there is outdoor seating, while the year-round seating inside is set in a
room decked out like an old Roman street scene. Folklore value aside, the pizza at Li Rioni are
consistently good, particularly the sausage and mozzarella pie, and the margherita is among the best
in the centre of Rome. Due to its popularity and the small size of its oven, service can be quite slow at
peak hours.
Via dei SS Quattro 24, +39 06 704 50605. Closed Tues

Pizzarium

Photograph
: parlafood.com
Pizzarium, owned by Gabriele Bonci, Rome's most famed pizzaiolo, gets better and more famous with
each passing year, but it still occupies the same small storefront is has since opening in 2003. Bonci
uses organic stone ground flour, sour dough starter, prolonged leavening and quality toppings to
produce quadrilateral works of art. Toppings change regularly and can be quite creative (rabbit, raisins,
and fennel greens come to mind), but classics like pizza alle patate (with potato and mozzarella) and
pizza rossa (with a rich tomato sauce) are constants. Pizzarium also sells excellent suppli' (fried balls
of rice with fillings) and bread.
Via della Meloria 43, +39 06 397 45416. Open daily
00100

Photograph
: parlafood.com

Brought to you by the men behind Sforno, 00100 is a pizza-by-the-slice joint just off Piazza Santa
Maria Liberatrice in Testaccio. Its toppings remain fairly consistent you'll always find "Greenwich"
(stilton, mozzarella and port) and "pizza in bocca" (prosciutto, sage, and mozzarella) but you will also
occasionally find focaccia pugliese, a southern Italian specialty studded with cherry tomatoes and
olives (watch the pips!). There are also other snacks to choose from, including a number
of suppli' inspired by Roman dishes. 00100 is also home to thetrapizzino, a triangular pocket of fluffy
dough that is stuffed with typical Roman ingredients, such as tripe with tomato sauce and mint, bits of
oxtail braised with celery and carrots, tongue with a parsley garlic sauce, or chicken with bell peppers.
Via Giovanni Branca 88, +39 06 434 19624, 00100pizza.com. Open daily
Katie Parla is a food historian and author of the food and travel blog Parla Food

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