Professional Documents
Culture Documents
By
Dr Fadzilah Adibah Abdul Majid
A Three Day Hands-On Course on Household and
Personal Care Product Formulations
17-19 May 2004
CEPP, UTM
Skin Architecture
Epidermis
The epidermis
9 the top most layer of
skin
9 0.1 to 1.5 mm
thickness
9 It is made up of 4
layers:
1.
2.
3.
4.
Melanin
Produces by melanocytes (specialized cells in the basal
cell layer)
Protects the skin against sun damage
Rate of production determines skin colorthe more
melanin produced in the skin, the darker the skin
appears.
Melanin production increases when skin exposure to the
sun (in an effort to shield the skin from the damaging
ultraviolet rays; suntan effect).
Caused freckles, birthmarks, and age spots (pathes of
melanin within the skin.
Dermis
Dermis
9 Lies beneath the epidermis
9 1 .5 to 4 mm thick (the thickest of the three layers of the
skin).
9 Home to most of the skins structures, including sweat and
oil glands, hair follicles, nerve endings, and blood and
lymph vessels.
9 The main components of the dermis are collagen and
elastin.
9 Storage much of the bodys water supply
9 When the amount of stored water is increased, the skin becomes
tight and stretche.
Sweat glands
Two types:
the apocrine glands and the eccrine glands.
Apocrine glands
are specialized glands found only in the armpits and pubic
region. In animals, it is the apocrine glands that secrete the
scents used to attract a mate; however, no one is sure of
their function in humans.
secrete a milky sweat that encourages the growth of bacteria
responsible for body odor.
These glands are activated at puberty when stimulated by
hormones.
Nerve Cells
9 Nerve endings can also be found in the dermis
9 Responsible for the sense of touch, relaying
information to the brain for interpretation.
9 Signal temperature to the brain and, if
necessary, trigger shivering, an involuntary
contraction and relaxation of muscles. This
muscle activity generates body heat.
Collagen
Collagen is a tough, insoluble protein
found throughout the body in the
connective tissues that hold muscles and
organs in place.
In the skin, collagen supports the
epidermis, lending it its durability
Elastin
A protein that keeps the skin flexible.
The substance that allows the skin to
spring back into place when stretched
(the scientific reason a funny face wont stay that way)
Hypodermis
Hypodermis
The subcutaneous tissue (hypodermis) is the deepest
layer of the skin.
It is missing on parts of the body where the skin is
especially thinthe eyelids, nipples, genitals, and shins.
Subcutaneous tissue acts both as an insu-lator,
conserving body heat, and as a shock absorber,
protecting in-ternal organs from injury.
It also stores fat as an energy reserve in the event extra
calories are needed to power the body.
The blood vessels, nerves, lymph vessels, and hair
follicles also cross through this layer.
NORMAL SKIN
peach complexion.
It is not easy to describe it. Like happy people it has no story, not
a rough look but on the contrary, soft and smooth. No open
pores, but invisible or barely visible. No special redness or
blemishes. It is uniform. Good tint with a certain matte look which
is defined as
OILY SKIN
HOW TO RECOGNIZE OILY SKIN
The texture of the skin is thick
The ostium are enlarged by the over
production of sebum which flows freely.
The aspect is shiny because the sebum
spreads out constantly.
The touch is sticky (most often but not
necessarily).
Make-up products are diluted by the sebum a
few hours after application
ASPHYXIATED SKIN
HOW TO RECOGNIZE ASPHYXIATED SKIN
Complexion is sallow
The ostiums are filled with comedones.
The surface is lumpy (mass of raised tissue - cysts).
The exterior layer is covered with a film similar to
varnish (furfur or squame),
Sometimes, desquamates (particularly the central
part).
Sensitive to atmospheric changes, to rubbing and
inappropriate cosmetics.
To differentiate a cyst from a comedone, pull the skin
(chin for example) between your indexes; if you see
small nodules which rise to the surface, they are
cysts. They cannot work their way out
ACNEIC SKIN
HOW TO RECOGNIZE ACNEIC SKIN
9 Signs are certainly easier to recognize than any
other type of skin!
9 Acneic skin is more or less oily. Its ostiums are
enlarged and filled with comedones.
9 Its surface is lumpy with cysts. Its texture is
coarse.
9 It has pimples of more or less density.
9 It has rednesses (inflammations) and eventually
scars.
Type 1 (Immediate)
Type 2 (Antibody-Dependent Cytotoxicity)
Type 3 (Immune Complex Disease)
Type 4 (Cell-Mediated or Delayed)
Tanning
Ionizing radiation
Free radicals
not enough sleep, smoke, live in pollution,
drink too much alcohol, stress, eat sugar,
eat salt, processed foods, exercise too much
(yes, it is true) and not getting enough
antioxidants in our diet
Improper nutritions
Ionizing radiation
The rays damage your skins DNA, as well as protein and immune
system cells.
Can be the first sign of skin cancer. Malignant melanoma is a deadly
form of skin cancer, which quickly spreads to the vital organs of the
body, and that will kill you.
Occasionally check for blemishes that are larger than a pencil
eraser, multi-colored or a symmetrical in shape. If you have any
questions, see a dermatologist.
A sunscreen with an SPF (sun protection factor) as high as possible
(but at least 15) should be used year-round, and applied every few
hours while exposed to the sun.
Cosmeceuticals and
Neutraceuticals
for Skin Maintenance
Nutrition (Neutraceuticals)
Proper nutrition is essential for healthy,
youthful skin.
fruits and vegetables should be consumed
as often as possible - at least five servings
per day
body requires essential fatty acids and fatsoluble vitamins for proper nutrition and
functioning.
Skin problems are often a sign of vitamin
deficiency
Cosmeceuticals
Retinoic acid
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA)
Beta-hydroxy acids (BHA)
Hydroquinone
Vitamin E
Vitamin C
Kinetin (hormone growth factor)
Grape seed extract
Coenzyme Q10
Topical Therapy
Systemic Therapy
Phototheraphy
Surgical Theraphy
Topical Therapy
Advantages:
direct delivery and reduced systemic toxicity.
Use a vehicle that carry an active ingredient. Vehicles are:
i)
Cream
ii)
iii)
Lotion
iv)
Ointment
v)
Paste
vi)
Emollients -
a semi-solid emulsion of oil-in-water; contains a preservative to prevent overgrowth of microorganisms. Stabilized by an emulsifier. Mostly water so mostly evaporates; non-greasy so easy application and removal.
liquid vehicle, aqueous or alcohol based, which may contain a salt in solution. Calamine lotion is a shake
lotion which contains an insoluble powder. Lotions evaporate to cool the inflamed/exudative skin.
a semi-solid grease/oil, sometimes also containing powder, but little or no water. The active ingredient
is suspended. Usually, no preservative needed. Ointments are best suited for dry skin disorders rehydrate and occlude. Because they
are greasy, they are difficult to remove.
An ointment with a high proportion of powder which gives a stiff consistency. Pastes can be applied to welldemarcated lesions. Due to its ointment base, they are difficult to remove.
Emollients are useful in dry-skin disorders due to their ability to re-establish the surface lipid layer
and enhancing rehydration of the epidermis. There are several emollient ointments, creams and oils added to baths.
Quantities Required
A useful guide is the fingertip unit (FTU) which equals
g. One FTU is the amount of topical agent that can be
applied to the terminal phalynx of the index finger.
The whole body requires 20-30 g of ointment per single
dose. In an adult:
- face or neck 1 g
- trunk (each side) 3 g
- arm 1 g
- hand g
- leg 3 g
- foot 1 g
Skin Problems
Viral infections
These occur when a virus penetrates the
stratum corneum and infects the inner layers of
the skin.
Example viral skin infections include herpes
simplex, shingles (herpes zoster) and warts.
Some systemic viral infections, such as chicken
pox at measles, may also affect the skin.
Viral infections cannot be cured with antibiotics.
Bacterial infections
Such infections are caused by a variety of
bacteria, the most common types being
staphylococ streptococci.
Bacteria may infect the topmost layers of skin,
the follicles, or the deeper layers of skin.
If not treated correctly, these infections may
spread throughout the body.
Examples include impel folliculitis, cellulitis, and
Lyme disease.
Antibiotics are effective against bacterial
infections
Fungal infections
Harmless fungi are always present on surface of
the skin, and infection occurs when these
organisms entry into the body
These infections are usually superficial, affecting
the skin, hair, and nails; examples include
athletes foot, lock itch, and ringworm.
However, in people with suppressed immune
systems or who have been taking antibiotics
long-term, the fungi may spread to deep within
the body, causing more serious disease.
Parasitic infections
These infections occur after exposure to
parasites such as lice and scabies
Pigmentation disorders
The amount of pigment in the skin is determined by the
amount of melanin being produced by the body
Loss of pigment (hypo pigmentation) can be caused by
an absence of melanocytes, malfunctioning cells,
exposure to cold or chemicals, or some types of
infection.
An increase in pigment (hyperpigmentation) may be
caused by skin irritation, hormonal changes, aging, a
metabolic disorder, or another underlying problem.
Age spots, freckles, and melasma are examples of
hyperpigmentation
Vitiligo is an example of hypopigmentation.
Trauma
Trauma describes an injury to the skin
caused by a blow, cut, or burn.
Any time the surface of the skin is broken,
the body becomes more susceptible to
infection and disease
Skin Conditions
The epidermis of the skin is composed of
living cells, melanin (color factor) and
keratin.
The term keratosis (kerr-uh-TQ-sis) refers to
a condition of the skin involving keratin.
Hyperkeratosis (HIGH-pur-kerr-uh-TOsis)
refers to an abnormal increase of the horny
layer of the skin.
An example of this condition is a callus,
which usually appears on the palms of the
hands or soles of the feet.