wine

On the
la Romane-Conti, Domaine Leroy, Domaine Jean
Grivot, Emmanuel Rouget, Domaine de Montille,
Grapevine
Domaine Leflaive and Domaine Armand
Rousseau is a good idea as is buying from repu-
table negociants such as Louis Jadot, Bouchard
Pere & Fils and Joseph Drouhin who blend wines
life from small parcels. Grand crus command steep
prices, even in poor years, but look for village-
level wines from top producers at quite reason-
able prices. Following are a few domains worthy
of note and seeking out.
Whites
l Domaine Meo Camuzet, Bourgogne Hautes
Cotes de Nuits, Clos Saint Philibert 2004:
Sophisticated character despite an origin in a
lower appellation, this wine shows a subtle fruit
profile with excellent balance between ripeness
and acidity. Modest oak influence and pleasant
minerality lend complexity to the finish.
l Domaine Rapet, Pernand Vergelesses 1er
Cru, En Caradeux 2004: This is an impressively
intricate wine, showing lots of nuances on a solid
foundation of fruit recalling peaches and pears.
l Domaine Michelot, Meursault 1er Cru,
Genevrires 2005: A generous, rich wine in keep-
ing with Meursaults reputation, this is neverthe-
less complex as well, with lovely accent notes of
minerals, vanilla and toast. Already delicious, this
will only get better over the next five years.
l Domaine Paul Pernot, Bienvenues Batart
Montrachet Grand Cru 2004: An undeniably
great wine, this shows the large leap in quality
Burgundy is made from pinot noir for
reds and chardonnay for whites
pleasure. Pure and admirably deep in flavour, it Buying
shows a lot of breeding for the money.
l Domaine Rapet, Aloxe Corton 2005: A marvel-
Burgendy
In Thailand, being able to find a
ously expressive wine with a remarkable scent of wide range of quality reputable
fresh red raspberries, this is perhaps one of the burgundy is not easy. However,
most vocal Aloxe Corton Ive ever tasted. It will there are a few very good import-
need time to pick up aromatic complexities, but ers who distribute it in Bangkok,
the fruit component is so pure and sweet and such as Terroir Wines SA, which
intense that it is already delicious. Give this wine represents some high-quality
domaines.
a bit of cellar time.
l Domaine Philippe Naddef, Fixin 2005: This
winemaker makes excellent wines from Gevrey,
but his Fixin can also be excellent. This shows
impressive intensity and power, with serious
density to the dark fruit notes and lots of fine-
grained tannin.
l Domaine Bouvier, Gevrey Chambertin Les
Jeunes Rois 2005: This gorgeous wine has a win- below from
ning combination of soft, fresh, open fruit aromas left
and exotic, earthy elements. The fruit is sweet Burgundy is
and expressive, and the earthy note is clean to the expensive in price
and inconsistent
palate. The oak integration is subtle but adds to in quality; the
the balance. regions grapes
l Domaine Rene Leclerc, Gevrey Chambertin struggle to ripen
1er Cru, Combes aux Moines 2005: This Gevrey in their cool

A Case Of and
that can justify the leap in price from premier vineyard is usually associated with masculine northern climate;
a winemaker
to grand cru white burgundy. Rich and con- wines based on heavier black fruit notes, but checks a batch of
centrated, but also lively, it blends power with this wine is a rather feminine offering based on burgundy
intricacy in the form of spice, toast, vanilla and charming notes of red raspberries and cherries. opposite from

For Burgendy
mineral notes along with a nutty character, and Soft, fine-grained tannins support its invitingly top
somehow manages to present all of this sensory delicate flavours. Workers sort
prized burgundy
information in a package that seems integrated, l Domaine Lamarche, Echezeaux Grand Cru
grapes;
symmetrical and harmonious. 2005: Notes from new oak barrels dominate the researching
initial impression, but a closer look shows lots of Burgundys
Yes, its expensive, and yes, its not always easy to find Reds concentrated fruit. Its density and slightly dry, winemakers
l Domaine Lafouge, Auxey Duresses 1er Cru, smoky character hide the fruit at first blush, but lessens the risk of
a dependably consistent source. But Dominic Rivard La Chapelle 2005: Given the high prices that the continued scrutiny reveals an impressive tender- buying an
expensive, but
advocates that effort spent finding and savouring good exceptional 2005 vintage burgundies command ness and delicacy that produces a terrific balance disappointing
burgundy delivers sublime rewards finding such a bargain within this vintage is a when aged for several years. bottle

A
h, burgundy! this attempt to identify parcels of specific geogra-
self-designated wine phy or terroir. Burgundy has a higher number

images: Central Food hall at Central world, G Four

capital of the world with
its fairytale vineyards
and chateaus has been
the subject of countless
poems, songs and dreams
of wine lovers and is considered the mecca of the
wine world by some. It produces, arguably, the
most consistently expensive wine available, but
its also one of the least consistent wines in terms
of quality.
Why such a small area that basically only
makes two types of wine can be so complex is
deeply rooted in the history of the region. Many
centuries ago monks mapped the region in an
of appellations dorigine contrle (AOCs) than
any other French region, and is often seen as the
most terroir-conscious of them all. What we call
burgundy is typically only made from pinot noir
for the reds and chardonnay for the whites. Both
varieties struggle to reach ripeness in this cooler
northern climate, which can lead to an incredible
variance of vintage character from year to year
as well as a range of quality among the regions
many vineyards.
Doing a bit of research on Burgundys repu-
table winemakers can lessen the risk of buying
this coveted and pricey wine. Seeking wines from
the better-known producers such as Domaine de

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