Delicious - March 2016 PDF

DONT MISS...
JOS PIZARROS CHICKEN WITH CIDER AND APPLES CRME BRLE TART STEP-BY-STEP KOUIGN AMANN
ON SALE 1-31 MARCH 2016 4.20
Easter issue
YOUR
Hot cross bun loaf

Sunday lunch
Brunch eggs
Top roasts
Sexy
seafood
NATHAN OUTLAW
SIZZLES
THE TRUTH
ABOUT
GLUTEN
GLORIOUS
CHOCOLATE!
16 pages of
outstanding
recipes to
pull out & keep
HEALTHY
RECIPES TO
SHAKE OFF
WINTER
THE WOW-MOMENT
CHEESECAKE
Vanilla with
blood oranges,
caramel and
Hobnob crumb
WIN a two-day
River Cottage course
0 3
9
771742 158151
WELCOME TO
MARCH
The Easter break falls early this year,
RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: LOTTIE COVELL. PHOTOGRAPH: ALEX LUCK. STYLING: DAVINA PERKINS
at the end of this month, which means

those much-looked-forward-to days of
celebration are almost here Time to start
planning for a lazily long weekend of relaxing
and feasting, chocolate and joy. Its likely to
be chilly, though, so crank up the heating, get
good things cooking, ll your house with
bunches of sunny daffodils
and create the moments fond
memories are made of.
The ve-minute recipe:

quick apple rarebits
JUST THE THING TO TOP A WARMING
BOWL OF SOUP... SERVES 4
Set the grill to medium-high. In a food processor,
whizz 100g chopped mature cheddar, 50g chopped
gruyre cheese, 60ml good quality stout or porter,
1 tsp English mustard, 1 tsp Worcestershire
sauce and 2 medium free-range egg yolks. Season
well, then whizz once more to a smooth paste.
Trim 4 medium sourdough bread slices so they
each fit snugly inside the rim of a heatproof soup
bowl, then lightly toast. Divide 1 cored and very
thinly sliced eating apple among the toasts, then
top with the cheese sauce.
Warm through the soup of your choice (we like
butternut squash), then divide among the bowls.
Put the toasts on top of the soups and grill for
5-10 minutes until the cheese is golden and bubbling.
Serve straightaway while the topping is still gooey.
Special A word that sums up
DANCES WITH
DAFFODILS
They (spookily) opened
before Christmas as far
north as Chester, but up on
the North York Moors, March
should still be a good time
for daffs. A renowned place
to walk and enjoy the cheery
trumpets is the Farndale
Daffodil Walk. It runs along
the River Dove and is a
3.5km circular route just
far enough to work up an
appetite for an aprs-walk
pub lunch by a crackling fire.
Download the route at
northyorkmoors.org.uk.
KAREN BARNES, EDITOR
PS
Turn to
p100 for
this months special
offer: subscribe to
delicious. magazine
and receive the
most beautiful blue
and white Habitat
platter worth 32
completely FREE!
Follow Karen on Twitter

@deliciouseditor
and on Instagram
@editorkarenb
SPUDS ON FILM
Imagine being left behind on
Mars Thats the story behind
Ridley Scotts acclaimed movie
The Martian. Astronaut Matt
Damons struggle to survive
involves potatoes which is
why spud supremo Albert
Bartlett has partnered with the
home entertainment release
(on Digital HD, Blu-ray & DVD).
For a chance to win a copy,
visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk.
WORDS: KAREN BARNES. PHOTOGRAPHS: MIKE NICHOLAS, RHAPSODY.

THE MARTIAN DVD 2016 TWENTIETH CENTURY FOX HOME ENTERTAINMENT LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
this Easter issue, which has so many

new things to tell you about. First,
a tactile moment: feel the paper the
magazine is printed on Its thicker and
its glossier to show off the food
pictures in even more glory. Then, if you
turn to p74 youll nd an extra 16-page
Collectors Edition of glorious new chocolate recipes. The
beauty is, the section is printed on extra-thick paper and
each page is perforated so you can tear out just one or tear
them all out. Big thanks to experts Richard Bertinet, Edd
Kimber, John Whaite and Paul A Young whove created,
with the delicious. team, recipes so luscious I guarantee
youll want to speed-melt chocolate. My top choice is the
pretzel caramel shortbread salty, sweet and gooey, yet
crisp. Look out for part two next month: brilliant bread.
And do tell me what you think, as this is about making your
chosen magazine something to treasure even more.
Apart from that, have you heard of the Fridge of Dreams?
Every home should have one and you can! Behind the
door lies magic... Every wonderful dish to tempt
whoevers sharing your home over the long
weekend. Thats just a small (but vital)
element of our 37-page Easter special.
I feel a pressing need to make a
batch of parmesan biscuits
side!
delicious. moments
SLICE OF LIFE
The best of
MARCH
A quarter of British adults

bake once a week, but why
exactly do we love it so
much? Alysa Levenes
rollicking good read looks
at how cake has become
so important to us. The
book leads us through
history from 2000 BC
(Before Cake), via King
Alfred, slavery and the
spice route, Queen Victoria
and the rise of the cupcake.
Its anything but dry...
25, Headline
FOR A RAINY AFTERNOON

Keep children (and big kids) out of mischief
and have a marathon biscuit-making session
using cutters in sweet Easter shapes. Visit
deliciousmagazine.co.uk for recipe inspiration.
Meri Meri Easter cutters, 9.95 for 4, harrods.com
MONET, LUNCH AND FIZZ

Sounds like a great combination, yes? Its what the famous London
restaurant Le Caprice this year celebrating its 35th anniversary has
arranged as a lunch treat. Start by visiting the Impressionist exhibition,
Painting the Modern Garden, at the Royal Academy in Piccadilly (on
until 22 April). Afterwards, walk a few steps to the restaurant. If the
weathers fine you could have lunch on the garden terrace. The price
is a remarkably good-value 38 per person, including the lunch, RA
tickets, one glass of Perrier-Jout champagne and a free Floris rose
hand cream to take away. Le Caprice has two lunch packages to give
away to a delicious. reader. Visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk to enter.
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 5
34
76
105
58
MARCH 2016
ON THE COVER
CONTENTS
YOUR E AS TER INSPIR ATION
34 HOW DO YOU LIKE YOUR EGGS? Possibly

the worlds best brunch recipes
42 ALWAYS A WINNER: COBBLER One topping,

three magical crowdpleasers
47 THE FRIDGE OF DREAMS If you fill it with

good things, they will come Every dish
you need, at the ready for the big weekend
58 EASTER LUNCH Elegant but relaxed is it

really possible? Of course it is
67 THE HERITAGE INGREDIENT: SAFFRON

CHEESECAKE WITH BLOOD ORANGES,
CARAMEL AND HOBNOB CRUST, p65
Recipe and food styling Rebecca Woollard

Photograph Toby Scott
Styling Olivia Wardle
of beef? We reckon its due a revival
90 TASTES LIKE HOME When Dad got cooking,

the young Vivek Singh got excited
92 TREND INGREDIENT: POMEGRANATE MOLASSES

Whats all the fuss about it?
94 JOS PIZARROS FOOD FROM THE HEART

The Spanish chef cooks Basque Country
favourites from his hot new book
Once youve tried hot cross bun loaf,
LIGHTER E ATING
Easter will never be the same again
105 GOOD-FOR-YOU MIDWEEK MEALS How

to make weekday dinners exciting
MORE GRE AT RECIPES
NEW! delicious.shop
76 NATHAN OUTLAWS SEAFOOD SPECIAL
Our online shop is now open!

Go to shop.deliciousmagazine.
co.uk. Look out for this
symbol for items being
sold in the shop
Spankingly fresh dishes from the

maestros restaurant in Cornwall
84 STAR OF THE SEASON Are you making the

most of spring onions? Heres how
6 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
88 ROAST OF THE MONTH Remember rump
113 HEALTHY MAKEOVER Vanilla rice pudding

loses calories but stays creamy
V IS FOR VEGE TARIAN

114 THE VITALITY COLLECTION Alice Harts
dishes swap worthiness for flavour
T HE
delicious.
PROMISE
RECIPES THAT WORK Every
47
recipe is rigorously tested

by our food team, using
state-of-the-art Electrolux
ovens, so you can be
confident they work
every time.
INGREDIENTS We aim to use

easy-to-find seasonal
ingredients. Well tell you
where to find any unusual
ingredients and/or what to
substitute them with.
We use higher-welfare
meat for testing, supplied
by The Ginger Pig
(thegingerpig.co.uk).
88
132
This symbol next to an

ingredient means there
are more ideas for using
it on our Loose Ends page.
HONEST COOKING TIMES
RE AD ALL ABOUT IT
9
GLORIOUS
CHOCOLATE
INBOX Whats on your mind this month?
11 FOR STARTERS Events, trends and
Between p74-75
youll nd 16 pages
of extra recipes to
pull out and keep
interesting nibbles of news
17 MY LIFE ON A PLATE Chef Anthony

Demetres culinary inspiration
18 WISH LIST This months best buys,

including top Easter treats
22 FOOD HERO Whats an American boy

doing making cheese in Sussex?
25 TEST REPORT An everyday cookbook,

a course for men, and simnel cakes
28 WHAT HAS IMMIGRATION EVER DONE FOR US?
BE A BE T TER COOK
122 THIS MONTH IN OUR TEST KITCHEN Tips,
tricks and know-how from the team
128 THE CHALLENGE Its that Bake Off

mind-boggler, the kouign amann
Quite a lot, says Guy Dimond, when it

comes to our dining-out choices
99 CHEERS! Susy Atkins finds the best buys

and suggests matches for Easter chocs
102 THE SANE VIEW: GLUTEN According to the

experts, its had an unfairly bad press
132 HUNGRY TRAVELLER Climb into a tuk-tuk

and explore the hotspots of Bangkok
138 GREAT ESCAPES A food lovers retreat in

Spain, between sea and mountains
146 RANT Flavoured water? Just no!
OTHER GOOD THINGS

8 COOK THE COVER and win a Devon break
75 READER EVENT Itll be a night to remember
100 SUBSCRIPTION OFFER Free Habitat platter
120 LOOSE ENDS Use up those leftovers
127
137
140
144
WIN! A two-day River Cottage course

RECIPE INDEX
COMING NEXT MONTH
FOOD LOVERS CROSSWORD
Unlike many magazines,

our timings include
prep such as chopping.
Hands-on time is when
youre chopping, stirring
or frying. Oven/simmering
time is when you can
leave the dish in the oven
or on the hob.
Indicates a vegetarian
recipe.
Indicates a
gluten-free recipe.
Whenever you
KNOW- see this symbol,

HOW
youll find useful

extra information about
the recipe.
This symbol
means youll find
an option to freeze
or chill part or all of the
recipe in advance.
MAKE
AHEAD
Indicates you can freeze

all or most of the recipe.
Unless stated, freeze the
finished dish for up to
3 months. Defrost and
heat until piping hot.
NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION
Recipes are analysed for
nutritional content by an
expert nutritionist. Theyre
calculated with precision
but may vary, depending
on the ingredients used.
Calculations include only
listed ingredients.
PRICES are correct at

time of going to press.
COOK
THE
COVER
WIN a
foodie stay for

two in Devon
worth 520
TO ENTER, GO TO deliciousmagazine.co.uk/cookthecover
ts the ultimate food lovers

prize: a weekend for two
overlooking beautiful
Dartmouth with a one-day
cookery course at the Manna
from Devon Cooking School.
As well as enjoying two nights
B&B accommodation, youll
learn how to cook in a woodfired oven and have time to
explore the areas natural
beauty. mannafromdevon.com
For a chance to win Make our
cover cheesecake, take a picture
and share it with us (see left).
JANUARYS
COOK THE
COVER
WINNER
Elisa
Brandom
wins an
Emma
Bridgewater
dinner set for
her winning
meatballs
(with a little
help from
Bruce the
bulldog).
have your say.
Tell us what you think of

delicious. (good and bad)
or send your tips, pictures
and queries to:
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magazine.co.uk.
Or write to us at:
delicious. magazine,
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See what other
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com/deliciousmag
*A FULL MAINLAND UK DELIVERY ADDRESS AND TELEPHONE NUMBER MUST BE SUPPLIED. ENTRANTS MUST BE OVER 18.
FOR FULL TERMS & CONDITIONS, TURN TO P137. ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK
THIS MONTHS STAR PRIZE

18 bottles of Borgo Molino
Motivo Prosecco DOC Brut
Borgo Molino is a family
producer run by a trio of
brothers in Italy. Awarded
a silver in the Decanter
World Wine Awards
2015, Motivo Prosecco
is available from
Tesco online at 90
per six-bottle case.
It has delicate
lemon and pear
flavours and
is presented in
a beautifully
distinctive bottle.
Serve it as an
aperitif or with
light seafood,
white meats
and salads.
tesco.com*
WIN! 50
SAINSBURYS
VOUCHERS
Great recipes need great

ingredients. For your chance
to win 50 Sainsburys
vouchers, solve the cryptic
clue on the magazine spine,
then email your answer, with
your name, full UK mainland
address and phone number,
to info@deliciousmagazine.
co.uk. Competition entry
closes 29 February. Entrants
must be in the Sainsburys
delivery area see p137 for
Ts&Cs. Solution to Januarys
cryptic clue: fortune cookies
FROM OUR INBOX...

SUBJECT:
Quality time
From: Liz Whishaw

My husband and I run our
own business and have
three daughters aged
seven, ve and three.
STAR
It can be difcult to
EMAIL
nd family activities
we all enjoy, but your
magazine has provided
us with a way of spending
quality time together
talking, cooking, tasting
and discussing.
Every month, when the new issue drops through the
door, we all look through and see which recipes wed like
to try. Weve been doing this for a year now and its my
favourite thing to do as a family. Not only are my girls
getting involved and learning to cook, but theyre also
trying so many new foods. Thank you for providing us
with the starting point for something thats become
precious to us. Who knew last years birthday-present
subscription would prove so valuable
SUBJECT:
Banishing
the winter blues
FROM : Maura Connolly
Going through ve years
of magazines to cut out
the recipes I want to keep
turned into a mammoth
yet pleasurable task.
It took far longer than
anticipated as each issue
needed careful perusal
old favourites were
rediscovered and exciting
new choices have been
added to m list of things
to m
wa
d
y
What YOUVE
been making
this month...
Crumpizza!
@foodjournalist
Spatchcock chicken
@doccmr
Bacon and dill pasta

@jojobrosser78
SUBJECT: Dont change a

FROM : Kathryn Hankey
thing
Ive been buying delicious.

religiously since a friend of
mine recommended it to me in
2010. Your magazine has helped
me raise my three food-loving
boys, feed friends and family
and supply many presents.
Its supported me through
Christmases, Easters, birthdays,
barbecues, Bonre Nights,
sleepovers, breakfasts, lunches
and dinners. So I want to say
thank you. Please dont change
a thing especially the index at
the back!
delicious.
is (and
always has
been) my
best kitchen
friend.
SUBJECT: Keep insects

FROM : Thelma Wood
off the menu!
In your food trends article [January, p26] you

refer to the launch of Eat Grub: The Ultimate
Insect Cookbook. We cannot go down that road
with a clear conscience. We have already
decimated rainforests and contaminated
oceans, and to this we must add the slaughter
of innumerable animals. If we start attacking
the insect world, we could be signing the death
warrants of future generations by upsetting
the balance in the food chain necessary for
its survival. Please dont let delicious. be in
the vanguard of such a movement.
Deputy editor Susan Low replies A caveat:
this piece was an observation of what may
happen, not a recommendation to readers.
That said, insects have been part of the diet
since humans have existed. Im pleased to say
we have no plans to publish insect recipes.
We will continue to provide information
on whether or not a recipe
is vegetarian and leave
it to our readers to
make up their own
minds about what
they find palatable.
maldonsalt.co.uk
in the know.
FOR STARTERS
N E W S , N I B B L E S O F K N OW L E D G E A N D G O O D T H I N G S T O D O R I G H T N OW
IN THIS
HELP STAMP
OUT FOOD WASTE
At delicious. were always looking for ways

to use up leftovers, so were cheering for a new
United Nations initiative that aims to cut food
waste despite its uncatchy name.
Its called Champions 12.3, which derives from
a UN document setting out 17 sustainable development
goals. Target 12.3 calls for the world to halve per capita
global food waste at the retail and consumer levels by
2030. The initiative is led by 30 food industry CEOs,
government officials and food waste experts.
Its good that the issue is being tackled on an industrial
level but, according to campaign group Love Food Hate
Waste, half of all UK food waste comes from home
kitchens. So, while the CEOs are making targets, we
need to reduce our own waste too. For ideas, see
deliciousmagazine.co.uk/leftovers and
tweet us your own ideas using the
hashtag #nofoodwaste.
MONTH...
1836 Isabella
Beeton was born
in Marylebone on
12 March. She
published her
first book, Mrs
Beetons Book of
Household
Management,
aged 25. It had
hundreds of
recipes and sold 2 million
copies in seven years.
1897 Cornflakes were

first served at The Battle
Creek Sanitarium in
Michigan by Dr John Kellogg,
who believed in a healthy
diet. Later, he feuded
with his brother
Will, who
began selling
a sugaradded
version
under the
name Kellogg.
1904
WORDS: RACHEL WALKER, DAISY MEAGER, KERRY FOWLER, SUSAN LOW.

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK, REX FEATURES, JASON BAILY
Did you know?
The most expensive chocolate

Easter egg was sold in London in
2012, as the grand finale of The
Faberg Big Egg Hunt. It was called
the golden speckled egg and
fetched 7,000 at auction. It weighed
50kg and was over 1 metre high.
FOOD PSEUDS CORNER
You still use dried

pasta? I never eat
that stuff. I only eat
homemade spaghetti.
I wouldnt give my kids
industrial pasta
This months winning piece of overheard
foodie twaddle is from @evainthekitchen
via Twitter. Think you can top it? Send us
your own or overheard gems using the hashtag
#foodpseud. Well publish the best.
Theodor
Seuss
Geisel was
born on
2 March.
He was
best known
by his pen
name, Dr Seuss, author of
the classic childrens book
Green Eggs and Ham.
1965 Astronaut John

Young made headlines
on 23 March by
smuggling a two-dayold corned beef
sandwich onto
a Nasa mission.
in the know.
TR ENDWAT CH
Quirky cocktails
JAMES RAMSDEN,
our man with his

finger on Londons
food pulse, takes
one for the team
and drinks his way around the
capitals bars in search of the
quirkiest cocktail lists
SOURCE: COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE, UNIVERSITY OF KENTUCKY

COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE
Theres a section of the menu

at White Lyan cocktail bar in
east London (whitelyan.com)
titled Heaps Mad Sh*t which
really tells you all you need to
know about Londons cocktail
scene. The cosmopolitan is
dead, thats for sure. Instead
we have a litany of drinks that
are certainly weird, and quite
often wonderful. That
aforementioned list contains

a cocktail simply called ribs,
which contains bourbon,
smoked chilli, mint tea and
rosewood. Yep, tastes like ribs.
Mosey on a little west to
Islingtons 69 Colebrooke
Row (69colebrookerow.com),
where they make a bellini
with a honey and pollen
pure base instead of the
traditional peach (as you do).
At Kings Crosss Grain
Store (grainstore.com), whose
fondness for vegetables Ive
mentioned in the past, they
take the same classic cocktail
and give it a base of celeriac
pure. I suspect this ones
quite, um, challenging.

Theres more plant life over
at Artesian (artesian-bar.co.
uk) near Oxford Circus, with
cocktails containing ingredients
such as seaweed, carrot, wheat,
yarrow and orange blossom, as
well as artichoke, yuzu, tonka
beans and coriander. Whatever
makes your garden grow
Just up the road, the moody
basement that is Purl (purllondon.com) creates its martini
using liquid nitrogen you
wont complain its too warm.
Do read the instructions
though its served with a stern
warning that theres a risk of
death, should you attempt to
A whole lot of H20
Its no surprise that fruit and veg contain a fair bit of water,
ater b
butt did
you know just how much?
CABBAGE
CUCUMBER
93%
96%
ICEBERG
LETTUCE
96%
imbibe before the liquid

nitrogen has evaporated.
Perhaps thats what
happened to the cosmo
FROM LEFT Liquid nitrogen is all
the rage at Purl, though they do
like a good old fashioned doily
too; White Lyan in east London;
at Grain Store the drinks are
appropriately vegetal
THE MUSIC IM COOKING TO...
SANDIA CHANG
General manager and sommelier

at Londons Bubbledogs and
Kitchen Table restaurants
True Faith NEW ORDER

Hooked on a Feeling
WATERMELON
92%
ORANGE
87%
BLUEBERRIES
85%
BLUE SWEDE
Tiny Bubbles DON HO

Jump Around HOUSE
OF PAIN
Hey Ya OUTKAST
in the know.
M Y L O V E S & L O AT H E S
JIMMY DOHERTY
FARMER AND TV PRESENTER
JIMMYS FARM NOW HAS AN

ONLINE BUTCHERS SHOP. GO TO
JIMMYSFARM.COM/VISIT/BUTCHERY
SPINACH You get that

sense of it doing you
good, the rush of iron.
SUNDAY ROAST We farm rare
breed animals. Im looking at
two of my dexter cattle and
thinking, Another 12 months
and they will taste amazing.
SHELLFISH Mussels and chips
with a pint of Adnams. Perfect.
FILMS AND FOOD Theres a place
near where I live in Suffolk that
serves good local food and has
a cinema. You have dinner,
then sit with your wine and
watch a movie. Worst lm?
Les Misrables: Ill never get
those three hours back.
UNDERVALUING MILK
People forget the
dairy industry is the
backbone of the beef industry.
Theyre interlinked. We
undervalue milk at our peril.
DIPPING BREAD INTO OIL I get it
when its good oil but when
its not Im glad the practice
is disappearing.
CRITICISING THE FOOD INDUSTRY
The innovation has been

amazing and it gets us all fed
on time. We have to marvel at
that, whether its the good,
the bad or the ugly. Go to a
canning factory or mushroom
farm. Blow your mind!
DATES FOR
YOUR DIARY
MARCH & APRIL

19-22 MARCH
Food for Real Film Festival,
various locations, Liverpool
The foodie film fest will host
screenings, discussions
and workshops focusing on
all aspects of food. Therell
be documentaries, movies,
shorts and animations, with
Q&As and cookery sessions
tying in with the themes
explored. Put this one at the
top of your list.
Free; foodforreal.co.uk
2-3 APRIL
Springfest, Balloch, Loch
Lomond, Scotland
Browse your way around the
stalls of 100-plus food and
drink producers, then watch
a chef demonstration to find
out what to do with your swag.
There are food workshops
too, or you can fill your lungs
with fresh air on one of the
foraging walks.
Free; lochlomondspringfest.
co.uk
HOT NEW COOKBOOKS

MY KITCHEN YEAR
20; Murdoch Books
(out 10 March) Ruth Reichl
was the editor of US food
magazine Gourmet, which
closed abruptly in autumn
2009. The subtitle, 136
recipes that saved my life,
sets the tone for the story
of what Ruth did next after
the shock of losing her job.
Shes a good writer, so
prepare to be pulled into
her narrative. Recipes are,
as youd expect, of the
contentment-giving kind.
FLORENTINE: THE TRUE

CUISINE OF FLORENCE
25; Hardie Grant (out
10 March) The debut book
from Aussie-born, Tuscany-
based food writer and

blogger Emiko Davies is
a beauty. The author
is a knowledgeable writer,
and she beautifully weaves
together the history of the
city with portraits of its
people, food markets and
restaurants. There are
recipes from the city and its
surrounds, too, such as
schiaccata alluva (focaccia
made with wine grapes).
One to immerse yourself
in and cook from.
MORE HOME COMFORTS

20; Quadrille James
Martin, host of Saturday
Kitchen and Home Comforts,
the series on which this
book is based, hardly needs
an introduction. Many of
the 100 savoury and sweet
recipes are gleaned from
his show, and all live
up to the comfort-food
billing. Great photos too.
AMAZING MALAYSIAN
20; Square Peg A book
to inject some spice into
your life Malaysian-born
author Norman Musa,
who runs Ning restaurant
and cookery school in
Manchester, admits to
missing the cooking of his
home country. Just looking
at recipes in the book for
typical Malaysian dishes
such as prawn curry laksa,
beef rendang or eggs in chilli
sambal, its easy to see why.
7-10 APRIL
The London Coffee Festival,
Old Truman Brewery,
London E1
A pop-up roastery, a barista
battle and latte art
masterclasses are a few of
the events taking place to
celebrate all things coffee.
Explore food and coffee
pairings in the pop-up
restaurant (tickets from 60)
or grab a coffee cocktail and
enjoy live bands and DJs.
One for the discerning
caffeine addict.
Tickets from 14.50 adults;
londoncoffeefestival.co.uk
16-17 APRIL
Porthleven Food and Music
Festival, Cornwall
The seaside town will be
buzzing, showcasing the best
of Cornish food, drink and
music over the weekend.
Whether youre watching
cookery demos in the chefs
theatre or local musical
talent, stalls lining the
harbour will keep you fed
and watered.
Free; porthlevenfoodfestival.
com
in the know.
FROM TOP Anthony,

man and boy;
avgolemono soup
like his Greek
gran used to
make; the lady
herself, with
Anthonys
grandfather;
fresh herbs are
a favourite; he
grew up on baltis
in the Midlands;
a book he loves
MY LIFE ON A PLATE
ANTHONY
DEMETRE
The London-based chef recalls
his grans soup, one-pot suppers
and childhood scents
MY INSPIRATION My love affair with food was sparked

at an early age by my Greek grandmothers simple,
earthy cooking. Tragically my grandparents were killed
in a car accident when I was 14, but I still remember her
avgolemono chicken soup, thickened with egg yolks and
avoured with lemon and wild oregano. It was ambrosia.
SHARE AND ENJOY Mum was great at one-pot

roasts. She was a single mum bringing up
four children and I was the eldest, so Id
come home from school and help in the
kitchen. Now my cast-iron pot at home
is indispensable. I love having it in the
middle of the table and everybody
helping themselves. I think its important
my boys see that way of sharing.
SENSUAL MEMORIES The scents and

avours from my youth are lemons, dill,
wild oregano. Really fresh and herbal.
KEEP IT SIMPLE Im not a fancy kind of

cook. You cant beat a Greek-style shoulder
of lamb, slowly braised for hours with
white wine, onion, oregano and garlic. Give me that
any day instead of a French-trimmed rack of lamb.
INTERVIEW: KERRY FOWLER.

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK, MIKE ENGLISH, LIS PARSONS
MY SORT OF FOOD Indian cooking is a big love of

mine. I come from the Midlands, where you cant move
for great baltis. I also love cooking outdoors. Not so
long ago I roasted a whole cauliower in a Big Green
Egg barbecue and it was unbelievable.
FOOD WRITERS Im a fan of Simon Hopkinson and

Elizabeth David. Cooking at home is all about everyone
sitting down and tucking into something plonked on the

table. Food is about enjoyment and warming the soul.
ANTHONY OWNS THE MICHELIN-STARRED RESTAURANTS WILD
HONEY AND ARBUTUS IN LONDON. HES ALSO COLLABORATED WITH
SEARCYS TO OPEN THE URBAN COTERIE AT THE M HOTEL IN
SHOREDITCH AND, MORE RECENTLY, OSTERIA IN THE BARBICAN.
These pages this month with lots

of special things for Easter are about
us doing the hard work so you dont
have to. Were sent anything from
40 to 100 new products a month, and we really
do try them all: tasting the chocolate, smelling the
aromas, testing gadgets. Only if theyre useful,
good-looking and value for money do they get
the delicious. seal of approval.
PORCELAIN dream
Ive been following Mud Australia on Instagram for a while
(@mudaustraliainstagram), so I was pleased to hear theyve
recently opened a store here in the UK (you can also buy
their stuff in Harrods). The colours are an artists palette of
off-white, pale grey and ice cream shades very calm, very cool.
Every piece of handmade porcelain comes in every colour, so
you can mix and match to your hearts desire. And they do mail
order, too. Prices start at 11 for a little salt pot.
Visit the store at 11 Porchester Place, London W2, or shop
online at mudaustralia.com
ORANGES ARE THE ONLY FRUIT
WHO SAID
WREATHS
WERE JUST FOR
CHRISTMAS?
Not us particularly when theyrre as
striking as this one, decorated w
with
little speckly eggs, feathers and twigs.
18, John Lewis stores or online
at johnlewis.com
or almost the only fruit available in March, apart from exotics and
forced rhubarb. Whyy not cut out the middle man and order a boxful
of bright unwaxed fruit direct from Spain? GoodOranges.com
is a grower with four generation
ns of expertise under its
belt. They only sell whats at
its be
est, and you can order a
10-12kg box (never
refr igerated) for about 20,
delivered to your door
d
shippin
ng is, Im glad to report,
free
e. Whether youre eating
them as they are, making
mar malade or juicing them,
they ta
aste just as oranges are
meant to taste: sweet with
jjust the right amount of
accidity, and so juicy youll
nee
ed a plate and a napkin.
in the know.
C
CELEBRATORY
DRINK
D
GIN AND TONIC

MARSHMALLOWS?
Im loving Castle Brook 2009

C
Classic
Cuve, a classic mix
of
o chardonnay, pinot noir and
p
pinot
meunier grapes, made
using
the traditional
u
c
champagne
method. With its
lemony tang its a top aperitif.
T grapes are grown in
The
Hereford
H
by the Chinns,
w
whove
farmed there for years
b planted the vines in 2004.
but
from castlebrookvineyard.
26
co.uk
and from next month you
c
c buy it in M&S, too
can
Yes, please. If, like me, youre not keen

on marshmallows (Too sweet? Too
bouncy? Not much flavour?) you might
just be converted by these sharp,
sweet, cloud-like squares by
(appropriately) Katy Cloud. Theyd
make a beautiful Mothering Sunday (or
anytime) gift because the packaging
is as pretty as the taste is good. Top
choice flavours are Zingy Lemon
(3.75) and, of course, that G&T (4.75).
They lasted precisely five minutes in
the delicious. office, which I took as a
unanimous thumbs-up. katycloud.co.uk
HOT CROSS
BUNS WITH
A TWIST
Sultanas infused with orange,
zesty lemon peel (but not too
much its subtle) and just
the right amount of spice.
Toasted and slathered with
butter, these ring-thechanges hot cross buns
are very good indeed.
St Clements Hot Cross Buns, 1.50 for four, Marks
& Spencer. Look out for the stem ginger ones, too
BRING ON THE SOLDIERS!

Atten-shun! Pretty egg cups on parade: durable
terracotta with a glossy pastel-glazed rim. Pass
the Burford Browns and get the toast on
Eddingtons eggcups, 5.99 for two. You can order them
from kitchenmonger.co.uk or by calling 01488 682158
THE WELL
DRESSED
TABLE
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK
Keep it NEAT
Swan has launched a range of retro storage containers for

the kitchen from caddies for sugar, flour and so on to
a bread bin big enough for more than one loaf (hurrah!). The
range comes in five colours and is made from gloss-coated
iron with chrome handles and fixtures, so its durable.
27 for three canisters; 25 for bread bin; very.co.uk
With Easter on the

horizon, a beautifully
set table needs a fine
cloth to complete the
look. This Fog Linen Work
tablecloth from Home
Address is made from 100%
linen, which has the attribute
of getting softer the
more often its washed.
Available now for 70 at
shop.deliciousmagazine.co.uk
Turn the page for our top-pick Easter buys

in the know.
ARTY
TOUCH
YOUR EASTER
A velvety milk chocolate

egg made with Valrhona
chocolate and adorned
with yellow and white
buttons. Too pretty to
eat? Almost
The Chocolate Society
artisan milk chocolate
egg, 39.99 for 200g,
exclusively from
Selfridges
HOTLIST
Buying a sweet gift for someone special?
These are worth seeking out
EVERYONE
LOVES BUTTONS
Chocolate buttons, that is,
making this years signature
eggs from Chococo a surefire
winner. The dark chocolate
is made from 67% Madagascan
cocoa solids. Theres a
milk chocolate version, too.
Both come in fetching colourss.
8.50 for 150g,
chococo.co.uk
CUTE COOKIES
To make a change from
chocolate, try these all-butter
Easter biscuits handmade in
the bakery at the renowned
Bettys in Harrogate. They
taste as good as they look.
8.25 for 160g, bettys.co.uk
FLOWER
POWER
French bakery and
patisserie Paul
celebrates Pques
(Easter) with this egg
made from smooth milk
chocolate and decorated
with scattered white
chocolate flowers.
Bon apptit!
Oeuf Fleur Chocolat au
Lait, 9.95 for 225g, from
Paul shops nationwide
WARNING: ADDICT
ADDICTIVE
If you know a fan of Reeses Peanut Butter
Cups, one taste and their heart will be lost
to these. Small milk chocolate eggs with
a sweet, lightly salted peanut butter filling.
Montezumas Peanut Butter Mini Eggs,
3.99 for 150g;
g; montezumas.co.uk
SURPRISE,,
SURPRISE
Keep the hand-painted
d
egg-shaped box for
e
trinkets long after the
12 indulgent truffles
are gone theyre
dairy free but youd
never guess. You cant
choose the colour of
egg box you receive,
so you wont know
which pattern youre
getting until it arrives.
Booja Booja Hazelnut
Crunch Truffles,
24.99, ocado.com
GOING, GOING
GOING
G
GOING,
G GONE
These praline-filled milk chocolate eggs wont hang around for
long. Theyre dyed blue with spirulina (thats a blue-green algae)
to look like eggs from Daylesford Legbar hens (now thats a use for
the so-called health food powder that we can get on board with!).
Three Gianduja Legbar Blue Eggs, 12 for 210g, daylesford.com
nobody squeezes
more nuts in
More taste, more protein, more energy.

At our very own factory here in the UK, we can squeeze a lot more
nuts into our nut butters because we dont add palm oil or sugar.
Better for you, and better for the orangutans.
meridian: nuts about nuts
Its about making the

best cheese we can
Whats a nice American guy doing making cheese on a grand estate
in deepest Sussex? Earning awards, for one thing. Rebecca Woollard
discovers how Bruce Rowan became a champion of British cheese
lorious Goodwood: its a name

associated with fast cars, galloping
horses and, these days, vintage
festivals that attract thousands of punters.
The 5,000 hectare estate in Sussex is much
more than the famous racecourse. It
encompasses the stately home Goodwood
House, a hotel, members club, two golf
courses, and cafs, restaurants and bars.
Much of the food served in these venues
comes from Goodwoods own organic
Home Farm, which is the sort of place
I wish all my food was produced in: the
South Downs rear up all around, the yard
is spotlessly clean and theres a discernible
feeling of pride in whats accomplished
here. It radiates from the gleaming
machinery and the shiny coats of the
200 dairy shorthorn cows grazing steps
away from the creamery. Inside, US-born

cheesemaker Bruce Rowan greets me with
a big smile. Its not surprising hes smiling.
Hes been at Goodwood for three years
and last year his cheddar-style charlton
won Best Organic Cheese at the annual
British Cheese Awards.
AN AMERICAN ABROAD
So how did an American with a degree in
restaurant management end up making
award-winning cheese in the middle of
Sussex? After college, I managed some
big restaurants in the States, but it wasnt
really what I wanted to do, Bruce explains.
Ten years ago my wife got a job in the
UK, so we moved to London and I began
working for Neals Yard Dairy. I was selling
the cheese and learning how to mature
it and meeting a lot of exciting

cheesemakers too.
Neals Yard, the groundbreaking Covent
Garden-based purveyor of handmade
British and Irish cheeses, has a policy of
sending its staff on work placements. Bruce
went to Nottinghamshire to work with
Joe Schneider, a fellow American making
stichelton (a raw milk version of stilton),
and with the respected cheesemaker Mary
Holbrook, based outside Bath and known
for her ash-coated goats cheese tymsboro.
I was inspired, says Bruce. So I sent
out CVs applying to be a cheesemaker and
got a reply from Quickes dairy in Devon.
I told them I had no experience and they
said theyd teach me. I learned pretty much
everything from them. He did well with
that one: there are few better places to learn
food hero.
the craft of making cheddar than from

the masters at Quickes dairy.
PHOTOGRAPHS: STEPHEN HAYWARD
THE ROAD TO SUSSEX

How did Bruce make the move to
Goodwood? I came across an ad for the
cheesemaker position here. I sent my CV
and came in for a chat. They said theyd let
me know in a few weeks, so I headed back
to Devon. I got as far as Lyme Regis and my
phone rang It was them, offering me the
job. I played it cool, said Id think about it
Three years on, Goodwoods cheese
is getting kudos. Cloth-bound charlton is
aged for an optimum 12 months to
develop its creamy, gently crystalline
texture and citrussy avour. Im not
going for a cheese that bites your head off,
like some farmhouse cheddars we want
charlton to be a pleasure to eat, not just an
acquired taste for cheese snobs.
Also on the Goodwood cheeseboard is
a bloomed-rind camembert-style cheese
called levin down and the mould-ripened
molecomb blue. Each cheese is named
after somewhere on the estate, and theyre
made to complement each other when
served together. Its a neat touch.
KEEPING IT SMALL
Bruce counts himself lucky. There arent
many dairies where you can walk across
the eld to talk to the farmer about the

herd I know what theyve been eating
and how it will affect their milk. I even
know what mood the cows are in!
Working in this kind of close-knit
community ensures Goodwoods cheeses
have consistency of quality, as well as
genuine individuality of avour a must
when theyre supplying the Estates many
restaurants and cafs. We also sell to
some outside shops and restaurants, but
were a small operation. Were happy with
that, though for us its about making the
best cheese we can. If we turn a small
prot on top, thats a bonus.
Buy Goodwood cheeses at the Goodwood
Farmshop; buy charlton at goodwood.com/
goodwoodhomefarm/goodwoodcheese
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT
Cheesemaker Bruce
Rowan shows off his
award-winning cheese,
charlton; Goodwoods
bijou hotel; shorthorn
cows on the 5,000 hectare
estate, whose milk
supplies the Goodwood
dairy; the surrounding
South Downs; that cheese
will be ready soon
THE UKS NEWEST FOOD AWARDS
All the nominations are now in for the inaugural

delicious. Produce Awards, launched in association
with kitchen appliance specialists Fisher & Paykel
(fisherpaykel.com) to unearth the nations brightest
We asked you to tell us your favourite food produc
t
you are, hundreds of you obliged. Were busy assessing your nominations for
the best bakers, butchers, cheesemakers, fishermen, dairy farmers and the
rest, and the grand judging will take place in July.
Shortlisted producers will be announced on the delicious. website at the end
of May and the winners will be announced in our October issue, so keep your
eyes peeled. Heres to the nations food heroes!
Zero-calorie Truvia.
Leaves help make it sweet.
Being honest, we cant take all the credit for our sweetener praise
is due in large part to those little sweethearts: the Stevia leaves.
Thanks to all their hard work, you are now able to enjoy Truvia
with its sugar-like texture and calorie-free sweetness.
in the know.
TEST
REPORT
THE COOKBOOK
A Simple Table: Fresh and
Fabulous Recipes for Every Day
by Michele Cranston (14.99;
Murdoch Books)
TESTED BY Susan Low
If youre after the kind

of cookbook that invites
armchair dreaming
about exotic locations
and ingredients, this is
not the book for you.
If, on the other hand,
youre fed up with chefs
wafing on about their
philosophies, or 20-year-olds enthusing
about strict, but transformative, healthgiving regimes, youll be relieved that this
book doesnt have a chia seed in sight.
Neither will you have to wade through
chapters of spurious health advice, or
swear off major food groups before getting
to the point: the recipes. This isnt a book
about clever food there are no culinary
gymnastics, no liquid nitrogen party tricks
and no mention of the word diet,
promises Michele. Hurrah to that.
So, want something nice and not too
tricksy to put together for a midweek dinner
for two? Head for the Two Bowls chapter.
Need some new ideas to liven up family
meals? See the Four Plates section. There
are also chapters for weekend platters,
one-pot meals, side dishes, tea-time treats
and some stunning-looking desserts.
QUALITY OF THE RECIPES The author has been
a cook and food stylist for more than
25 years. She is currently food-editor-atlarge at Australian Womens Weekly and has
written 12 cookbooks in the deservedly
popular Marie Claire series. She sure knows
ITS ALL GOOD
Ricotta and cavolo

nero gnocchi
and, left, buttery
potato cake
how to write an appealing recipe, then

hone it down until its as concise as can be.
The recipe intros are in a script that
I found tricky to read so I looked at the
pictures and weighed up the yum factor
before settling on two veg-centric dishes:
ricotta and cavolo nero gnocchi with sage
butter (UK cooks would call it gnudi as
its not potato-based), and a nice-looking
buttery potato cake.
Once I got stuck into the rst recipe,
I was a bit concerned that one large egg
yolk and 35g our wouldnt be enough to
hold the gnocchi together when they hit
the boiling water. I neednt have worried
they emerged light, almost uffy, before
being bathed in butter and sprinkled with
crisp sage leaves. The dish was decidedly

generous for two and eagerly devoured.
Next I launched into the buttery potato
cake. It looked pretty fancy but, provided
you have a mandoline, its dead easy. As
with the previous recipe, the instructions
were clear. Mine took a bit longer to cook
than stated in the recipe, but I did use a
high-sided cake tin rather than the frying
pan called for so that was my own dumb
fault. It looked as good as the picture and
didnt take too long to disappear, courtesy
of my dinner guest.
PHOTOGRAPHY Beautifully lit pictures by
Aussie shooter Petrina Tinslay recall the
lightness and brightness of southern
hemisphere sunshine and give the reader
a denite idea about what to aim for. The
styling (by the author) is classy and clean,
and the clever line drawings (also by the
author) give the book individuality.
SUITABLE FOR You dont need to be a master
of technique, have piles of cooking kit or
masses of time to give these recipes a
whirl just a good appetite. Its a book for
condent cooks who like to feed people.
STAR RATING +++ ++

in the know.
THE COOKERY SCHOOL

WHERE Ashburton Cookery
School, Devon
(ashburtoncookeryschool.co.uk)
THE COURSE Gentlemans Relish,
two-day weekend course, 315
(includes lunch and dinner with wine;
accommodation available separately)
TESTED BY Mark Taylor
WHAT ITS LIKE Apparently, theres more to

cooking than grilling a bit of meat or sh,
steaming a few veg and microwaving the
occasional baked potato. Who knew?
Certainly not me, but my ignorance was
swiftly addressed by my delicious.
colleagues soon after I joined the magazine.
They set about getting me to improve my
kitchen skills. Thats why, early one
Saturday, I arrived at the sleekly modern
Ashburton Cookery School in the pretty
Devonshire village of the same name.
As the course title, Gentlemans Relish,
would suggest, this was to be a blokeish
weekend. My fellow attendees were all
male and, like me, if not quite reluctant
cooks, denitely reticent cooks. Most
were of a certain age and had been given
the course as a gift by hopeful wives
and partners, willing a miraculous
transformation in their fellas kitchen
skills. We bonded quickly and, once wed
been introduced to our tutors, chef
director Darrin Hosegrove and chef
Tom Ewings, we were ready to get started.

WHAT I LEARNED The course is designed to
encourage the novice and, for each recipe,
Darrin and Tom demonstrated exactly
what was required. As well as cooking up
playful banter, they taught us no-nonsense
prep and knife skills, and impressed upon
us the value of using good, seasonal
ingredients. The school is proud of its
links with local suppliers.
Over the weekend, we created a varied
menu that utilised those local ingredients
pan-fried mackerel llets, short-rib beef
and ale stew with dumplings, sticky date
pudding, venison cheese burger with
triple-cooked chips The theme was
well-made, hearty posh pub food, which
we all enjoyed at lunch and dinner each

day feeling proud, if not amazed, that
wed concocted this feast ourselves.
THE VERDICT There was a palpable sense of
transformation by the end of the course.
I emerged far more condent as a cook
empowered, even with a good grounding
in cookery skills and an eagerness to put
them to use as soon as possible.
The atmosphere was fun and informal,
and Id enjoyed the company of my fellow
students. Although I hadnt come away
with a signature dish I could wheel out
for special occasions, I had been given
the ability to cook, and I had a new-found
desire to seek out recipes and not be
afraid to give them a try. A pretty
successful weekend, Id say.
Ashburton Cookery School is part of the
Independent Cookery Schools Association,
the only independent accrediting body
in the UK; independentcookeryschools.co.uk
SIMNEL CAKES
HOW WE TEST Our panel are taste

experts. We conduct our tests
without packaging, so our
tasters dont know who
produced each product or how
much it costs. And to prevent
one tester influencing another,
the panel arent allowed to
confer during the tests, so the
results are unbiased.
WHAT WE LOOKED FOR The marzipan
had to be of good quality (no
twang of almond essence) and
the balls (traditionally 11 of
them, to represent the
apostles, except Judas) needed
to be in evidence. As for the
cake itself, a moist texture was
important, with lots of fruit and
balanced spice. The simnel
cake had to look good, too.
SUPERMARKET WINNER
Marks & Spencer,

12 for 940g
Overall we found most
of the supermarket
cakes way too sweet
and lacking in spice, but
not so our winner. The
attractive design and
burnished top entices,
while the cake is buttery
and moist with thick,
natural-flavoured
marzipan. Full marks.
BRAND WINNER
Bertinet Bakery, 3.25

per 290g slice, in-store
and online at bertinet.
com/bertinetbakery
Unconventionally this
simnel cake is sold as
slices, with a marzipan
apostle on each. It hits
all the right citrussyspicy notes, and the
cake is moist with thick,
great quality marzipan
its addictive.
JOINT BRANDD RUNNER

RUNNER-UP
UP
Fortnum & Mason,
5.95 for 120g, in-store
and online at
fortnumandmason.com
The dense, rich sponge
is packed full of fruit
with a pleasant hint of
spice, but its a tad dry.
The marzipan is a little
thin but does have a
good almondy flavour,
and the judges liked the
sweet ducklings on top.
JOINT BRAND RUNNER-UP

Peyton & Byrne,
19.50 for 950g,
in-store and online at
peytonandbyrne.co.uk
Its traditional look and
pretty fluted edge
were popular with the
panel. The cake itself,
though a little dry,
is well flavoured not
too sweet and the
marzipan got the seal
of approval.
TASTE TEST WORDS: DAISY MEAGER
THE TAS TE TES T
GUYS AND GRILLS
Brush up on kitchen skills with

chef Darrin Hosegrove at the
Ashburton Cookery School
DONE FOR US?
Its early spring and Brexit is in the air. After the promised in
in-out
referendum, Britain may soon choose to turn its back on th
he EU
or will it? Guy Dimond stops and thinks about what, food-wi
wise,
European immigration has brought to our country and wonder
ders
if there really is such a thing as British food anyway
ILLUSTRATION ALICE PATTULLO
grew up in Scotland, where the

monotony of the north European diet
was occasionally broken by rays of
sunlight brought by Italian immigrants.
They and their Scottish-born descendants
introduced us to multi-coloured gelati,
vibrant pizzas, and pasta dishes sprinkled
with herbs and lashings of olive oil.
We knew the forebears of our neighbours
and playmates had escaped poverty and
unemployment in Italy by moving north,
bringing their Mediterranean
diet with them, despite the
colder climate. Starting with sh
and chip shops and ice-cream
parlours, many migrants went
on to bigger and better things. Its small
wonder that, for decades, many of the
top-rated restaurants in Glasgow and
Edinburgh were Italian; some of them (such
as Valvona & Crolla in Edinburgh) still are.
The rst Italians in Scotland, of course,
were the Romans we still use the tracks of
their roads today. Nearly 2,000 years later,
famines and two World Wars prompted
further waves of Italian immigration. The
experience of my grandparents and parents,
who were market gardeners, wasnt
unusual. Italian and German POWs in
World War II were put to work tilling
Scotlands elds, alongside local farmhands.
Some of these captives grew fond of the
country and decided to stay. Bruno, a

axen-haired German POW, perfected his
English with the help of a dictionary that
my (usually law-abiding) grandmother
smuggled to him. He stayed on after the
war, working with my grandfather before
marrying a local lass and settling nearby.
Further south and closer to continental
Europe, London has a more complex
pattern of immigration. Many European
immigrants worked in catering, often
called Egon Ronay arrived in Britaain in

1946. A few years later he opened a French
restaurant in Knightsbridge called the
Marquee, which sparked a trend for rustic
cuisine paysanne classic dishes served up
without fuss and ornamentation. (He later
famously became an inuential
restaurant guidebook publisher.)
Overall though, dining out in rationingera Britain was fairly grim. In 1961, long
after rationing had ended and 10 years
after founding The Good Food
Guide, the socialist gastronome
Raymond Postgate described
British food of the preceding
decade thus: As for materials,
butter was never used in cooking, it was
always marge. Cream was never real cream;
it was a sort of sweetened white grease
offered under one of various fancy names.
What happens in Europe informs

what happens in Britain
purveying cuisines other than their own.

In the late Victorian era, German bakeries
brought continental-style fancy breads
and Viennoiserie to high streets. The
Maltese ran Sohos Italian restaurants for
a generation in the 20th century. And after
World War II, Czechs, Poles and Eastern
Europeans escaping poverty and
Communism at home were no strangers
to caterings low pay and long hours, and
took the work the British were less keen
on. Without the manpower provided by
those successive waves of European
immigration, the post-War dining-out
boom wouldnt have happened.
A poor but enterprising young Hungarian
THE FRENCH NEW WAVE

But by the late 1960s a French revolution
was sweeping away these ersatz
ingredients. Brothers Albert and Michel
Roux opened a ne-dining restaurant
called Le Gavroche near Sloane Square
in London, which was an instant hit
with society folk of the Swinging Sixties
and, give or take a Michelin star, it
has maintained the highest standards
to this day under the watchful eye of
food for thought.
food for thought.
Good chefs like

to experiment.
Theyre not bound by
national traditions
EUROPEAN INTEGRATION
Other nations cuisines are making their mark,
too. At the moment the Nordic countries are
a big inuence. Their purity, clarity and
fastidiousness in sourcing ingredients is second
to none, says Burr. Meanwhile, Portugueseborn Nuno Mendes is one of the new wave of
European chefs making waves in the capital. The
chef of Chiltern Firehouse Taberna do Mercado
says, At the moment its difcult in Portugal, with
high unemployment. London is better for chefs because
people are happy to experiment. You can see inuences of
Spanish and Portuguese chefs everywhere small-plates
menus, Spanish ingredients. At Taberna, nearly half our chefs are
Portuguese but the other half are British, or from other places. Good
chefs like to experiment. Theyre not bound by national traditions.
The reasons for immigration are complex, but one things certain:
our dinner plates would be a lot less interesting if the Italians, the
Poles, the French and a smrgasbord of other European cooks and
chefs hadnt brought their fresh ideas and avours across La Manche.
HOW BRITISH IS BRITISH FOOD?
British cooking has been incorporating ideas

from abroad since the Jutes, Saxons and
Normans settled on our shores. Take any
British dish apart and its only as British
as its precedents...
FISH A
AND CHIPS
Quinte
essentially British,
r ight? But the
technique of
battering, then
deep-frying fish was
probably perfected in
Portugal and Spain, then brought
to England by the Sephardic Jewish community
who settled in the East End of London and
elsewhere more than 150 years ago.
LOBSCOUSE
This meaty stew is so strongly associated with
port city of Liverpool that scouser is the
nickname for people with the local accent
but there are similar stews from Baltic ports
in Germany and Denmark with remarkably
similar names.
KETCHUP
The fry-up essential is the anglicised
ecap, itself a
form of the Malay word, ke
style of condiment importe
ed from
China (in Cantonese, gwai zap).
Early forms were fish-based;
ow
the tomato version we kno
today is probably American in origin.
g
MINCE PIES
These festive stalwarts have a history dating
back to the Crusades. Combinations of fruit,
meat and spices were common in Middle
Eastern cooking of the Middle Ages; by the
time of the Tudors, the spicy mixtures were
being put into pastry shells.
KEDGEREE
The Indian rice and lentil dish khichdi,

which dates back millennia (its me
entioned in
Sanskrit texxts), probably
inspired
d this AngloIndian dish. Smoked
fish and eggs were
added in the British
colonial vversions.
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK
Michel Roux Jr. Pierre Koffmann,

Raymond Blanc and other top cheefs of
the 1970s and 1980s were as Frencch as a
round of camembert, and helped promote
the appreciation of quality ingred
dients,
seasonality and a sense of place. But subsequent
q
p
chefs and opinionformers, either Michelin-starred or starring on TV, were generally
British. Did this mean the Brits had turned their backs on France? Non!
Arguably the most inuential chef of the 1980s was Alastair Little,
whose unashy style of cooking was described as modern British
by The Good Food Guide, a phrase that seemed to indicate a culinary
move away from France. Yet only a few years later the same publication
had to rename this increasingly dominant style modern European,
for there is no escaping continental Europes effect on British food;
what happens in Europe always informs what happens in Britain.
The editor of the current Michelin Guide to Great Britain and Ireland,
Rebecca Burr, sums it up this way: We [Michelin] have always had
this stigma attached to us as being too French-oriented. But back in
the 1970s, thats all youd nd in London the French were the only
chefs who were cooking at star level.
In the 18th and 19th centuries,
France produced the chefs who
catered for Europes royalty and
aristocracy. Chef superstar Auguste
Escofer came to London in 1890 to
run The Savoys kitchens and made
food fashionable. The French were
NUNO MENDES
also the rst to codify the techniques
and terms of cookery the same ones
taught in the UKs catering colleges today. Culinary hegemony
especially for haute-cuisine was inevitable. Nowadays, Britain has its
own brigades of Michelin-starred chefs, making their mark at top
restaurants all over the UK, but theres still a strong French inuence.
Five years ago there was a resurgence of French brasserie cooking in
London, with big salons and grand cafs in the European style
places such as The Delaunay and Brasserie Zdel.
Something
NEW
to
CHERISH
this Ea ter
DISCOVER THE CHOCOLATE COMPANY WITH COCOA FARMERS AT ITS HEART

Find Divine Easter Eggs in Waitrose, Oxfam, Asda, Liberty, independent stores & divinechocolate.com
the easter weekend.
38
62
68
The joy of the

long Easter break
STOP Plan at least one meal over the weekend
when everyone sits down together and you dont
eat in a rush, TV on, phone by your side. Weve
dreamed up 36 pages of Easter inspiration for
you to choose from.
COOK Make your chosen recipe(s) from

scratch, with care. Get in touch with the
physicality of cooking the way a sauce feels
as it reduces and thickens; the aromas when
onions or garlic are cooked just so. Let your
senses be your guide.
LISTEN Make the meal a catching-up

occasion that centres around the joy of food,
then take a few extra minutes at the end to chat
and relax rather than leaping up and clearing
the table. Its all about enjoying the moment
Turn the page for your Easter recipe inspiration
How do you like

your eggs?
RECIPES FROM AROUND THE WORLD
The egg: versatile, nutritious and avoursome, all wrapped up in
a beautiful package. Theyre emblematic of Eastertime, but equally
evocative of home comfort wherever home may be. We asked cooks
and food writers from different countries to share a favourite egg
recipe. If youre looking for a brunch dish this holiday weekend, the
tricky part will be choosing one from this dazzling half-dozen
New York
downtown
eggs, p36
PHOTOGRAPHS MAJA SMEND

FOOD STYLING CHARLIE CLAPP
STYLING OLIVIA WARDLE
the easter weekend.
Aussie
egg in a
hole, p38
UKRAINE
OLIA HERCULES, COOKBOOK
AUTHOR AND CHEF
Ukrainians dont do
breakfast by halves. When we
were shooting at my aunts
house for my book Mamushka,
my photographer Kris and
I were working non-stop for
four days. We felt that we
were going to faint from
exhaustion, so my aunt
whipped up this Ukrainian village
breakfast. We came straight back to life!
I distinctly remember she said she used a
chicken breast from a chicken shed killed
that morning. God I miss Ukraine...
Anything you fancy or thats in season
can go with these eggs, but the ingredient
that makes this dish quintessentially
Ukrainian is good quality lardo (pork fat).
I know a lot of people are into clean eating
these days, but we Ukrainians love our
lardo. It envelops everything with the most
wonderful porky avour a avour we
cant live without.
Ukrainian village
breakfast
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN
Lardo is an Italian cured

KNOW- pork fat from the back of
HOW
the animal. Its available
from Italian delis and online, but if
you cant find any, duck fat or beef
dripping work too.
3 Finally, crack in the eggs, season

and cook. You can leave them whole
and cook until the whites have
set and the yolks are still runny, or
mix them in to scramble them it
will taste great either way.
PER SERVING 244kcals, 18.7g fat (8g
saturated), 17.6g protein, 0.8g carbs
(0.7g sugars), 0.3g salt, 1.2g fibre
USA
KATHLEEN
SILVERFIELD,
delicious.
DIGITAL
EXPERT AND KEEN COOK
When you miss your

motherland you have two
choices: go home or eat
like youre at home. I chose
the latter when my latest
bout of homesickness
struck and invented a
brunch dish reminiscent
of NYC. Theres no
sandwich more evocative
of the city than pastrami
on rye, and this recipe
uses those avours. The
pastrami, coupled with
the caraway seeds in the
spicy bloody mary sauce,
takes me back to the
Jewish delis in Queens
and Manhattan.
New York downtown eggs

50g lardo, chopped
(see Know-how)
1 shallot, thinly sliced
1 free-range chicken breast, thinly
sliced lengthways (optional)
100g kale
4 medium free-range eggs
1 Cook the lardo in a large frying
pan over a medium heat for about
5 minutes until most of the fat has
been rendered (melted). Add the
shallot and cook until it starts to
turn golden (about 4 minutes).
2 Add the chicken (if using) and cook
for 2 minutes, then add the kale and
cook for another 5 minutes.

8 pastrami slices
FOR THE SPICY BLOODY MARY SAUCE
400ml thick tomato juice

2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
1 tbsp grated horseradish
2 tsp Tabasco sauce
tsp soy sauce
tsp caraway seeds
1 tbsp lemon juice
FOR THE LATKES
500g potatoes, such as rooster,

coarsely grated
1 onion, coarsely grated

2 large free-range eggs
2 tbsp flour
Sunflower oil for frying
1 For the spicy bloody mary sauce,
put the tomato juice in a pan and
bring to a simmer. Cook for around
15-20 minutes to reduce and
thicken. Stir in the remaining sauce
ingredients, then set the pan aside.
2 For the latkes, put the grated
potatoes and onion on a clean tea
towel, then wrap tightly. Wring the
towel out over the sink, squeezing
out as much moisture as possible.
This will take a few minutes but
its important for the potatoes to
be as dry as possible. Transfer the
mixture to a large bowl, then add
the eggs and flour and mix to
combine. Season well.
3 Pour 2cm sunflower oil into
a large frying pan. Heat over a
medium-high heat until the oil
sizzles when a small piece of latke
mixture is dropped in. Carefully
drop heaped spoonfuls of the
latke mixture into the oil without
overcrowding the pan (do this in
batches if necessary). Cook for 3-4
minutes on each side until golden.
If theyre getting too dark, turn the
heat down the latkes need to cook
all the way through before they
become too brown. Remove with
a slotted spoon onto kitchen paper
to drain. Keep warm. The recipe
should make 8 medium latkes.
4 Return the spicy bloody mary
sauce to a low heat. Meanwhile
bring a large pan of water to the
boil, then reduce to a simmer and
carefully crack in the eggs (in
batches if necessary). Poach for
4-5 minutes until the whites have
set. Remove with a slotted spoon
onto kitchen paper to drain.
5 To assemble the dish, put 2 latkes
on a plate, then top each with a slice
of pastrami and a poached egg.
Pour over the warm bloody mary
sauce and serve immediately.
PER SERVING 506kcals, 26.3g
fat (5.7g saturated), 28.3g protein,
36.8g carbs (7.7g sugars), 2g salt,
4.5g fibre
the easter weekend.
Ukrainian
village
breakfast
SCOTLAND
AGGIE MACKENZIE, delicious.
GADGET GURU AND AVID COOK
Ive no idea what makes

these soft rolls Scottish, but
north of the border theyre
everywhere. The combo of
savoury black pudding I buy
it online from Charles Macleod
in Stornoway creamy egg
yolk and soft bap is divinely
satisfying. It was the sort of
thing my mum would give us before we
embarked on the drive to my grannys. Our
baps came from The Co-op bakery, but with
that now long gone, Ive started making my
own. In the interests of healthier living you
could poach the egg, but fried tastes better.
Egg and black pudding on

a Scottish morning roll
SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN, OVEN
TIME 25 MIN, PLUS RISING AND PROVING
Vegetable oil for frying

250g black pudding, sliced into 8
(see Aggies introduction)
Brown sauce to serve (optional)
FOR THE ROLLS
450g plain flour, plus extra for

dusting
1 tsp fast-action dried yeast
1 tsp salt
350ml lukewarm whole milk
1 To make the rolls, sift the flour
into a large bowl and stir in the
yeast and salt. Make a well in the
centre and add the milk. Mix well
with your hands to make a soft,
sticky dough. Put the dough in
a large bowl, cover with cling film
and leave to rise in a warm place
for about 40 minutes.
2 Tip out the risen dough onto a
lightly floured surface and divide
into 8 equal pieces. Roll each lightly
into a round, then put on a floured
baking sheet, leaving space for them
to expand as they bake. Sprinkle
with a little flour, cover with a clean
tea towel and leave to prove in
a warm place for 20 minutes.
3 Heat the oven to 190C/170C fan/

gas 5. When the rolls have proved
(they will have puffed slightly), bake
for 25-30 minutes until theyre pale
golden and sound hollow when
tapped on the bottom. Leave to cool
a little on a wire rack.
4 While the rolls are still warm, heat
a little vegetable oil in a frying pan,
then add the black pudding slices.
Cook for a few minutes on each side,
then move to a plate and keep warm.
5 Add a little more oil to the pan,
then crack in the eggs and cook to
your liking (or see Aggies intro).
6 Split the rolls and top each base
with a slice of black pudding,
squashing it down a little with a fork,
then add a fried egg and season.
Put the top on the roll and serve with
a dollop of brown sauce, if you like.
PER SERVING 428kcals, 17g fat
(5.4g saturated), 17.9g protein,
49.7g carbs (2.3g sugars), 1.5g salt,
2.2g fibre
AUSTRALIA
MONIQUE
LANE, FOOD
WRITER
Theres
nothing glamorous or,
as far as Im aware,
quintessentially Aussie
about egg in a hole, but
for me its an immediate
return to childhood
summers in Sydney with
our family friends, the
Stevens. Mr and Mrs S
used to make this for the
kids as a treat. Wed stand
in a line waiting for our
eggy and snatch it
straight from the pan, hot
and dripping with butter.
I remember thinking the
fact egg and bread had
become a single entity was
the best thing imaginable.
Here Ive added bacon,
because bacon improves
everything as far as Im
concerned.
Aussie egg in a hole

SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN,
OVEN TIME 10-15 MIN
8 British free-range streaky

bacon rashers
4 thick slices good white bread
Butter, softened
2 ripe avocados
Juice 1 lime
Small handful fresh coriander,
roughly chopped, plus extra
leaves to garnish
Sriracha sauce (or, if you dont like
spice, ketchup) to serve
gas 7 and lay the bacon in a single
layer on a foil-lined baking sheet
with a lip. Cook for 15-20 minutes,
turning once, until crisp.
2 Meanwhile, cut a square or stamp
a circle out of each slice of bread,
leaving about a third of the soft
white part as a border. Butter both
sides of the bread. (You can butter
the bread cut-outs, then add to the
bacon in the oven for the final 10-15
minutes if you like.) Once the bacon
is cooked, remove from the oven,
then turn down the heat to
180C/160C fan/gas 4.
3 Melt a knob of butter in a large
non-stick ovenproof frying pan over
a medium heat, moving it around to
coat the base. Add the bread slices
and cook until golden on one side
(about 2 minutes). Turn over the
bread and repeat until both sides are
golden. Remove the pan from the
heat, then cross 2 pieces of bacon
over the hole in each toast. Crack an
egg over each bacon-covered hole.
Transfer the pan to the oven and cook
for 8-10 minutes until the white is set
but the yolk still has a bit of wobble.
4 Meanwhile, mash the avocado with
the lime, coriander and a pinch of
sea salt. When the eggs are cooked
to your liking, serve the toasts with
the avocado on the side, a scattering
of coriander and a drizzle of sriracha.
PER SERVING 528kcals, 37.3g fat
4.9g fibre
the easter weekend.
Egg and black

pudding on
a Scottish
morning roll
IRAN
SABRINA GHAYOUR,
COOKBOOK AUTHOR
At rst glance
this looks like a
meatloaf or
maybe even a giant
scotch egg?
Actually, Persian
cooks have been making
kooftehs (the Persian
word for kofte) like this
for centuries. The scotch
egg is believed to have
drawn inuence from a
Mughal dish called
nargisi kofta, to which it
bears a striking
resemblance. Its not hard
to see why such recipes
have stood the test of
time. They rely on simple
ingredients but look
spectacular and taste
great. The traditional
Persian recipe uses lamb
or beef mince, whole eggs,
herbs and prunes, but Ive
added pistachios. A great
brunch-time feast.
Persian lamb, apricot and

pistachio koofteh
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN,
OVEN TIME 45 MIN
SABRINAS TIP The word koofteh/

kofte means to pummel, so
remember that when making your
mixture and work it almost to a paste.
500g lamb mince (20% fat)
7 large free-range eggs (3 raw,
4 boiled for 6-7 min and peeled)
25g fresh dill, finely chopped
(stalks and all)
25g fresh chives, finely chopped
2 tsp ground turmeric
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp nigella seeds
50g whole, shelled pistachios
the easter weekend.
100g dried apricots, roughly

chopped
YOULL ALSO NEED
1.5 litre loaf tin

gas 4. In a mixing bowl, combine
the lamb mince, raw eggs, herbs,
spices, pistachios, apricots and
a generous seasoning of salt and
black pepper. Mix together well (see
Sabrinas tip).
2 Press just less than half the
mixture into the base of the loaf tin,
then make an indent lengthways
down the centre, end to end. Lay
the boiled eggs in a row in the indent.
Pile the remaining mixture over the
eggs and smooth the surface into
a peak, ensuring the eggs are all
covered. Bake for 45 minutes.
3 Remove the tin from the oven,
then turn out the koofteh and cut
into slices. Serve with your favourite
sauce I like mine with a sweet
tamarind or chilli sauce, but brown
sauce works beautifully too.
PER SERVING (FOR 6) 357kcals,
22.8g fat (7.8g saturated), 29.5g
protein, 7.2g carbs (7g sugars),
0.5g salt, 2.4g fibre
ENGLAND
DAN DOHERTY, EXECUTIVE CHEF AT
DUCK & WAFFLE RESTAURANT, LONDON
Eggy bread is one of my most treasured childhood food

memories. My mum used to make it for me when I was ill.
Nostalgia plays a big part in planning dishes at the restaurant,
so it was inevitable that Id play around with eggy bread at
some point. This recipe is essentially a ham and cheese
sarnie using eggy bread. Its like a hug on a plate.
Eggy-bread grilled
cheese sandwich

4 slices good white bread
2 free-range English ham slices
60g mature cheddar, grated
1 tbsp English mustard
25g butter
1 Beat the eggs in a wide, shallow

bowl and season with salt and
pepper. Dunk the bread slices in
the mixture one by one, pressing
well so the bread absorbs as much
egg as possible, then lay them out
on a baking sheet.
2 Put a slice of ham on 2 of the eggy
bread slices, then sprinkle over half
the cheese. Spread the mustard
over the other 2 bread slices, then

put them, mustard-side down,
on top of the ham and cheese
slices to make a sandwich. Heat
the grill to high.
3 Melt the butter in a large nonstick frying pan until foaming,
then add the sandwiches. (If
your pan is too small, cook the
sandwiches one by one, using
half the butter each time.) After
2 minutes or so they should be
nicely golden brown. Turn and cook
on the other side until golden.
4 Transfer the sandwiches to
a foil-lined baking tray, sprinkle the
remaining cheese on top and grill
for 2-3 minutes to melt the cheese.
Serve straightaway.
2.3g fibre
NEXT
MONTH
Theres a new
gin in town
ALWAYS A WINNER
Cobbler
With golden-puffed dollops of scone-like topping crowning a bubbling lling,
a cobbler is a thing of wonder for the senses. Here, weve adapted an airily light
topping recipe for three different dishes, covering savoury and sweet. Cook any
of these for friends over the holiday weekend and you'll have a happy gathering
RECIPES REBECCA WOOLLARD AND ROSIE RAMSDEN PHOTOGRAPHS GARETH MORGANS AND ALEX LUCK
FOOD STYLING REBECCA WOOLLARD AND LOTTIE COVELL STYLING DAVINA PERKINS
Chicken, mushroom
and riesling cobbler
SIMMERING TIME 40 MIN, OVEN TIME 30 MIN
MASTER RECIPE
Cobbler topping
300g plain flour
2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp fine salt
75g unsalted butter, cubed
284ml buttermilk (270ml for the dough,
the remaining 14ml for brushing)
1 Put the flour, baking powder and salt into
a large mixing bowl and stir to combine.
Add the butter then, using your fingertips,
rub in the butter until you get a coarse,
sandy mixture.
2 Stir in the buttermilk and bring
everything together into a soft, sticky
dough. Use the dough as required in the
recipes that follow.
60g unsalted butter

6 banana shallots, halved
lengthways
2 fat garlic cloves, thinly sliced
12 bone-in British free-range
chicken thighs, skin removed
Plain flour seasoned with salt and
pepper to dust
200g button or chestnut
mushrooms, halved
750ml dry riesling wine
200ml fresh chicken stock
4 tbsp double cream
1 tbsp dijon mustard
Small bunch fresh tarragon,
leaves picked
FOR THE COBBLER TOPPING
1 quantity cobbler topping (left)

1 tbsp finely chopped fresh chives
1 tbsp finely chopped fresh
tarragon (from bunch above)
1 Heat the butter in a large shallow
casserole. When sizzling, add the
shallots, cut-side down, and cook
over a medium-high heat for a few
minutes until theyve taken on some
colour. Flip them and cook for 2
minutes more. Turn down the heat,
add the garlic and cook, stirring, for
1-2 minutes, then remove the shallots
and garlic with a slotted spoon.

2 Coat the chicken with the flour.
Turn the heat under the casserole
to high, add the chicken and fry for
a few minutes on both sides until
coloured. Put the shallots and garlic
back in the casserole along with the
mushrooms, then pour in the wine
and stock. Bring to a gentle simmer,
then turn down the heat and cook
for 40 minutes, stirring occasionally,
until the chicken is tender and cooked
through. Remove from the heat,
then stir in the cream, mustard and
most of the tarragon, reserving
some for the topping. Leave to cool.
gas 6. Make the cobbler topping as
in the recipe (left), stirring in the
chives and tarragon with the
buttermilk in step 2. Dollop large
spoonfuls of the topping haphazardly
over the chicken. Brush the topping
with the reserved buttermilk from
the cobbler topping recipe.
4 Transfer to the oven and bake for
30 minutes until the sauce is
bubbling and the topping is golden
brown and puffed. Leave to stand
for 5 minutes, then serve.
protein, 34.3g carbs (4.5g sugars),
WINE EDITORS CHOICE More
riesling, but make it a rich, dry
version from Alsace in France.
the easter weekend.
Chicken,
mushroom
and riesling
cobbler
FOR THE TOPPING
1 quantity cobbler topping

(see p42)
1 heaped tsp English mustard
powder
Dusting of plain flour
(optional)
100g extra-mature cheddar,
coarsely grated
Pork, leek and

cider cobbler
Pork, leek and

cider cobbler
SIMMERING TIME 2 HOURS,
TEAM
FAVOURITE
Les Dunn,
managing editor
The slow-cooked
pork shoulder
and cheesy
cobbler topping
had me
spoon-hogging
excessively in the
test kitchen.
OVEN TIME 40 MIN
Cook the pork up to 2 days

MAKE ahead to the end of step 2,
AHEAD
then cool and chill, covered.
Heat on the hob before topping with
the cobbler. Or, once cool, freeze the
pork in a freezerproof container for
up to 3 months, then defrost and
warm through before continuing.
3-4 tbsp light olive oil

1.5kg British free-range boneless
pork shoulder cut into 3cm pieces,
skin and excess fat removed
1 tbsp plain flour, seasoned with
salt and pepper
6 leeks, sliced into rounds
5 thin pancetta slices, chopped
into 1cm lengths
Small bunch sage leaves, chopped
450ml dry cider
525ml good quality chicken stock
Large bunch fresh flatleaf
parsley, leaves roughly chopped
1 Heat 3 tbsp olive oil in a large

shallow casserole (about 30cm).
Season the pork, then coat in the
seasoned flour and add to the hot
oil. Brown well all over, then remove
to a plate with a slotted spoon (you
may have to fry in batches). Add the
leeks and pancetta to the pan, with
a little more oil if necessary, and fry
gently for 10 minutes until soft.
2 Add the sage and return the pork
to the pan. Add the cider and stock,
covering the pork, season again and
bring to the boil. Reduce to a simmer
and cook, covered, for 1 hour.
Remove the lid and simmer for
another hour until the pork is tender
enough to pull apart with 2 forks.
Break up the pork a bit, stir in the
chopped parsley, then leave to cool
a little while you make the topping
(see Make Ahead).
gas 6. For the topping, follow the
master topping recipe but stir the
mustard powder into the flour in
step 1. Shape the dough into a disc
slightly smaller than the casserole,
using a little extra flour if its too
sticky, then score a cross in the top
using a sharp knife. Scatter half the
grated cheese over the pork and
place the cobbler disc on top.
4 Glaze the top with the reserved
buttermilk (from the cobbler topping
recipe), then scatter over the
rest of the cheese and bake for
40 minutes or until the topping is
golden and cooked through. Leave
to stand for 5 minutes before serving.
51g carbs (7.8g sugars), 2.7g salt,
6.8g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE A strong,
dry cider or an appley South African
chenin blanc would go best here.
the easter weekend.
Individual rhubarb, demerara

and almond cobblers
MAKES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN TIME 20 MIN
1.2kg rhubarb, sliced into 4cm lengths

175g golden caster sugar
Finely grated zest 1 orange
30g fresh ginger, finely grated
Cream to serve
FOR THE TOPPING
1 quantity cobbler topping (see p42)

tsp vanilla bean paste
3 tbsp each demerara sugar and flaked
almonds to top
1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6.
Toss the rhubarb with the sugar, orange
zest and ginger in a large bowl and leave
for about 15 minutes to macerate. Butter
8 x 250ml ovenproof serving dishes.
2 Meanwhile make the cobbler. Follow
the master recipe but use only tsp salt
and add the golden caster sugar to the flour
(step 1). Stir in the vanilla paste with the
buttermilk (step 2). Bring the dough together,
then divide into 8 pieces (about 75g each).
Divide each into thirds and roll into 24 balls.
3 Divide the macerated rhubarb and any
juices equally among the buttered dishes
(about 160g each). Top each dish with
3 topping balls, brush with the reserved
buttermilk (from the cobbler topping
recipe), then sprinkle over the demerara
sugar and flaked almonds.
4 Put the dishes on a baking sheet and
bake for 20-25 minutes or until the topping
is golden and cake-like, and the rhubarb
is soft but still holds its shape. Serve
with lashings of cream.
(5.4g saturated), 7.9g protein, 67.8g carbs
The perfect place to

curl up with a classic.
On a classic.
Winston from 1,099
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the easter weekend.
The fridge of dreams

No matter how
old you are, opening
your fridge to nd
the shelves full
of enticing snacks and
homemade meals is a sight
to behold. When I go to visit
my parents in Lincolnshire,
peeking in the fridge is one
of the things I look forward
to most (not forgetting the
dogs). My mum has a knack
for lling it with just the
right things for the weekend,
especially if its a holiday.
Here, Ive devised a mix of
recipes and suggested a list
of easy-to-nd ingredients
that will give you all the
components you need for
an Easter weekend of
feasting whatever time
of day someone pulls open
the fridge door.
LOTTIE COVELL, DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR
RECIPES & FOOD STYLING LOTTIE COVELL

PHOTOGRAPHS YUKI SUGIURA
ILLUSTRATIONS EMMA DIBBEN
STYLING DAVINA PERKINS
NO-FUSS CHILLED PUDDING
Lemon, lime and ginger

cheesecake
PLUS CHILLING
These little biscuits are

perfect for when unexpected
guests drop by
Prepare the cheesecake

MAKE up to 48 hours in advance.
AHEAD
The leftovers will keep for
a few days longer in a sealed
container in the fridge.
Its easy to change the
FOOD
TEAMS flavours here. Try swapping
TIP
the lemon and lime zests in
the filling for 1 tsp vanilla bean
paste, then swirl through a couple of
tablespoons of good quality rhubarb
jam. Keep the stem ginger syrup as
the flavour is great with rhubarb.
FOR THE BASE
200g gingernut biscuits

60g unsalted butter, melted
Grated zest 1 lime
Vegetable oil for greasing
FOR THE FILLING
THE BAKE-ANY-TIME BISCUIT
Parmesan sabls
MAKES ABOUT 16. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN,
OVEN TIME 12 MIN
Its good to make a double batch

MAKE
AHEAD of this dough, wrap it in cling
film and put it in the fridge. It
will keep for a couple of days, ready to
slice and bake as needed. The dough
also freezes well: wrap in a double
layer of cling film, then freeze for up to
3 months. Defrost just enough until you
can cut through it with
a sharp knife,
then slice off
as many
biscuits as
you want and
return the
rest of the
dough to the
freezer.
In a food processor, pulse

160g plain flour with tsp fine sea
salt, tsp cayenne pepper and a pinch
of English mustard powder to combine.
Add 150g chilled, cubed, unsalted
butter, then pulse until you have a
mixture that looks like breadcrumbs.
Add 150g grated parmesan and 1 tsp
cold water, then pulse to form a dough.
Shape into a log, then wrap in cling film
and chill for at least 30 minutes or up
to 48 hours (see Make Ahead). Heat the
oven to 180C/ 160C fan/gas 4. Slice the
dough into 5mm rounds and place on a
lined baking sheet about 3cm apart
(the biscuits will spread a little in the
oven). Brush with beaten free-range
egg, then sprinkle with extra sea salt
and poppy seeds. Bake for 12 minutes
or until golden.
PER BISCUIT 156kcals, 11.4g fat
(6.9g saturated), 5.1g protein, 7.9g carbs
560g full-fat cream cheese (we

like Philadelphia)
397g tin condensed milk
3 tbsp stem ginger syrup (from
a jar of stem ginger in syrup)
Zest and juice 2 lemons
Zest and juice 2 limes, plus extra
zest to decorate
1 sachet Dr Oetker powdered
gelatine (widely available)
YOULL ALSO NEED
20cm diameter loose-bottomed

cake tin
1 In a food processor, whizz the
gingernut biscuits to fine crumbs,
then add the butter and lime zest.
Whizz again until everything is
mixed together thoroughly. Lightly
oil a 20cm diameter loose-bottomed
cake tin, then evenly press all but
2 tbsp of the biscuit crumbs into the
base. Chill while you make the filling.
2 Put all the filling ingredients
except the gelatine in a large mixing
bowl, then beat with an electric
mixer until very smooth.
3 Put the gelatine in a medium bowl
with 100ml cold water. Sit the
the easter weekend.

cheesecake
Smoked salmon pt
with quick-pickled
radish and cucumber
the easter weekend.
bowl on a saucepan half filled with

hot water from the kettle, then heat
gently over a low heat (make sure
the bowl doesnt touch the surface
of the water). Stir the gelatine until
it dissolves, then stir into the filling
mixture, ensuring there are no
lumps. Pour the filling on top
of the chilled biscuit base, then
cover the tin with cling film and
chill in the fridge for at least 5 hours
to firm up (see Make Ahead).
4 Remove the cheesecake from the
tin, then sprinkle over the reserved
biscuits and extra lime zest to serve.
25g fat (16.4g saturated), 7.4g
THE QUICK-FIX PT
Smoked salmon pt
with quick-pickled radish
and cucumber
SERVES 6 AS A STARTER OR NIBBLE.
HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN
The pt will keep for up to

MAKE 4 days, chilled in a sealed
AHEAD
container.
In a large mixing bowl, put 200g
smoked salmon, 280g full-fat
cream cheese, the juice of 1 lemon,
a small handful of fresh flatleaf
parsley, 2 tsp hot horseradish
sauce, 100ml single cream and
a good few turns of black pepper
and salt. Use a stick blender to
blend until smooth. Alternatively,
whizz in a blender or mini chopper.
Set aside (see Make Ahead).
Finely slice a handful of radishes
and peel cucumber into ribbons,
then put in a mixing bowl. Pour
over 3 tbsp white wine vinegar
and add 2 tbsp caster sugar, then
season generously with salt
and toss. Stand for 5 minutes
Serve the pt and pickle with
blinis or toasted sourdough and
a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.
7.6g carbs (7.3g sugars), 1.3g
salt, 0.7g fibre
You cant go wrong when youve got

a pot of fresh homemade pesto on
standby its brilliant for pepping
up snacks or main courses
THE MULTI-TASKING SAUCE
Punchy pesto
MAKES 200G (ENOUGH FOR 6 PORTIONS OF
PASTA). HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN
Keep in a sealed container

MAKE in the fridge for up to a week,
AHEAD
or freeze for up to a month.
WHY ITS GREAT Homemade pesto is

a smart thing to have in your fridge
because of its versatility: stir it into
pasta or gnocchi, use it as a topping
for crostini with crumbled feta or dollop
it over steak.
In a mini chopper or food processor,
whizz a large handful of fresh basil
with a large handful of fresh flatleaf
parsley, 40g roughly chopped

parmesan, 2 anchovy fillets,
1 tbsp rinsed, drained capers and
1 garlic clove until you have a rough
paste. Add 1 tsp sea salt and 80ml
good quality extra-virgin olive oil.
Whizz again until combined. Taste,
season if it needs it and add lemon
juice to taste (we used lemon).
11.8g fat
(2.7g
saturated),
3g protein,
0.7g carbs
(0.2g
sugars),
1g salt,
0.5g fibre
hard-working
ingredients...
Even if you make all the recipes here, its

worth filling any gaps in your fridge with
extra provisions. That way youll have
a full food kit behind that fridge door, ready
to feed hungry mouths, day or night
FRESH EGG PASTA is the top choice for a fast

meal, tossed with crushed garlic, torn fresh
basil, grated parmesan, extra-virgin olive oil
and lemon juice. It cooks in 3 minutes.
CHARCUTERIE Great for impromptu antipasti
boards, sandwiches or snacking.
NOCELLARA ITALIAN OLIVES Big, bright green and
juicy a perfect nibble with cocktails.
CHEESES If you dont have a deli nearby,
thecheesesociety.co.uk has a good
selection. Or visit our online shop at
deliciousmagazine.co.uk for top quality buys
from The Courtyard Dairy. Wherever you
buy from, good choices include:
Lincolnshire poacher
Farmhouse cheddar
Gruyre (also for cooking)
Stichelton or other blue cheese
Ash-coated goats cheese or a zingy
goats cheese that works well in salads
Brie with truffles, or a brie de meaux
Parmesan for cooking
FULL-FAT NATURAL YOGURT Dollop on top of or
stir into curries, mix into a dip, swirl into
soup or eat for breakfast. The food team
like Yeo Valley Greek Style Natural Yogurt.
The Collective Dairy Straight Up
unsweetened yogurt is also a great choice
its sour, so it works well in rich savoury
and spicy dishes.
GOLD TOP JERSEY AND GUERNSEY WHOLE MILK

Cooking with gold top
tastes so much better. It
also makes luxuriously
creamy coffees a treat for
the Easter weekend.
FRESH HERBS AND SALAD LEAVES

Parsley, dill, coriander,
basil, rosemary, mint,
rocket and watercress.
LEMONS AND LIMES If youre a
regular delicious. reader,
youll know we see citrus
as an important seasoning.
If you balance it with other
elements, it helps bring out
the flavours of the dish.
THE WHENEVER SOUP
Warming sweet potato

and ginger soup
OVEN TIME 40-45 MIN
You can prepare this soup

MAKE up to 1 week in advance,
AHEAD
then store in a sealed
container in the fridge. Or freeze for
up to 3 months; thaw to reheat.
Fresh stock makes a big
FOOD
TEAMS difference to soup. Buy the
TIP
best quality you can afford.
1kg sweet potato, skin on, roughly
chopped
2 eating apples, such as braeburn,
cored and cut into wedges
1 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp coconut oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2 tsp coriander seeds, crushed
2 tsp cumin seeds, crushed
20g fresh ginger, grated
400ml full-fat coconut milk
750ml good quality vegetable
stock (see tip)
1 tsp salt
Greek yogurt and fresh coriander
leaves to serve
1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C
fan/gas 6. Spread the sweet potato
pieces and apple wedges in a large
roasting tray, drizzle with olive oil
and season with salt and pepper.
Roast for 40-45 minutes until
softened and golden.
2 Meanwhile, in a large saucepan,
heat the coconut oil. Add the onion
and fry over a low-medium heat for
5 minutes. Add the coriander and
cumin seeds, then fry for a further
5-10 minutes until fragrant.
3 Add the ginger, coconut milk,
stock and salt, then bring to a gentle
simmer. Once the sweet potato and
apple are cooked, carefully add
them to the pan. Simmer for a
further 5 minutes, then remove
from the heat. Use a stick blender
to whizz the soup until smooth
wrap a tea towel around the pan
to prevent the soup from splashing
while you whizz it. (Or carefully
blend in batches in a jug blender.)
4 Serve with a swirl of yogurt and

a sprinkling of coriander. Have some
crusty bread on hand for dunking.
7.2g fibre
SPEEDY SALAD
Apple and fennel slaw

SERVES 8. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN, OVEN
TIME 5-10 MIN
Have the veg ready sliced

MAKE in the fridge and the dressing
AHEAD
made up to 4 hours in
advance, but combine them no more
than 30 minutes before serving. If
youre leaving the veg in the fridge,
toss it with a little lemon juice and
cover with a damp piece of kitchen
paper to keep it from browning.
1 red onion, sliced into rings
2 tbsp caster sugar
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
100g sourdough bread
Olive oil for drizzling
red cabbage, thinly sliced
1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced
2 granny smith apples, cored
and thinly sliced
FOR THE DRESSING
100ml full-fat Greek yogurt

1 tbsp wholegrain mustard
50ml mayonnaise
Juice lemon
Handful fresh flatleaf parsley
1 Put the onion, sugar and vinegar
in a small bowl and set aside for
10 minutes. Heat the oven to 220C/
200C fan/gas 7. Tear the bread into
bite-size pieces, then spread over
a baking tray. Drizzle with oil and
season, then bake for 5-10 minutes
until golden and crisp. Set aside.
2 Mix the cabbage, fennel, apple and
quick-pickled onion in a large bowl.
In another small bowl, combine all
the dressing ingredients, season,
then toss with the veg along with the
croutons. Serve.
PER SERVING 170kcals, 9.5g fat (1.6g
saturated), 3g protein, 16.6g carbs
the easter weekend.
Homemade soup in the fridge

is a proper treat, and the spices
in this recipe are both warming
and cheering
Sweet potato and

ginger soup with
a swirl of yogurt
YOULL ALSO NEED
23cm diameter, deep, loosebottomed cake tin
Apple and fennel

slaw, p52
THE CENTREPIECE
Ham hock, sausage and

cider raised pie
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOURS,
OVEN TIME 1 HOUR, PLUS CHILLING AND
STANDING
The pie will keep covered in

MAKE the fridge for up to 4 days.
AHEAD
Freeze for up to 1 month.
Hot water
FOOD
TEAMS crust pastry
TIP
is robust, so
you dont need to
handle it tentatively.
FOR THE FILLING
Olive oil for frying

3 shallots, sliced
3 leeks, finely sliced
200g small button mushrooms

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
4 British free-range sausages,
cut into 2cm pieces
6 tbsp plain flour
150ml dry cider
180g British shredded ham hock
50ml single cream
Juice lemon
Large handful each fresh flatleaf
parsley and sage, roughly chopped
FOR THE HOT WATER CRUST PASTRY
80g unsalted butter

80g lard
500g plain flour
1 tsp fine salt
1 medium free-range egg,
plus 1 beaten egg to glaze
1 In a large, flameproof casserole,

heat a glug of oil over a medium heat.
Gently fry the shallots and leeks for
10 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Add the mushrooms and garlic, then
cook for a further 5 minutes and
lightly season. Transfer the
vegetables to a bowl and set aside.
2 Add another glug of oil to the
casserole and turn up the heat.
Add the sausages and fry for 5-10
minutes, shaking often, until they
start to colour. Return the veg to the
pan along with the flour and stir to
combine. Fry for 1-2 minutes. Add
the cider, bubble to reduce for
2 minutes, then add the stock, ham
hock and cream. Simmer for
10 minutes or until the sauce
thickens. Season, then stir in the
lemon juice and chopped herbs.
3 For the pastry, put the butter and
lard in a medium saucepan with
200ml cold water and bring to the
boil. Meanwhile, put the flour and
salt in a large heatproof bowl and
make a well in the centre. Crack in
the egg, then cover with the flour
mixture. Pour the hot water mixture
onto the flour, mixing with a table
knife to bring the dough together.
When its cool enough to handle, use
your hands to knead the dough until
smooth. Leave to cool, covered with
a tea towel, until just warm or at
room temperature
4 Wrap a third of the pastry in cling
film. Roll out the rest of the pastry
into a circle 30cm in diameter. Lift
into a deep, 23cm diameter, loosebottomed cake tin. Press the pastry
up the sides and over the rim,
making sure its even it should
overhang a little and have sharp
corners at the bottom (see tip). Chill,
uncovered, for 30 minutes. Heat the
oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6.
5 Pour the filling into the chilled pie
case. Tear off a fifth of the reserved
pastry and shape into a ring big
enough to fit around the top edge of
the cake tin (you can do it in 2 pieces
if its easier). Brush the lip of the
the easter weekend.
No fridge of dreams is complete

without a proper pie
Ham hock, sausage
and cider raised pie
the easter weekend.
Instead of Crunchies you

could use roughly chopped
salted pretzels, Munchies
or shortbread pieces. Instead of
Mini Eggs, try white chocolate
buttons or dried cranberries.
FOOD
TEAMS
TIP
50g unsalted butter, plus extra

for greasing
150g Rice Krispies
2 Crunchie bars, roughly chopped
2 x 100g bags Cadbury Mini Eggs
(or similar), plus extra to decorate
225g marshmallows
2 Curly Wurly bars, roughly
chopped
4 x 39g Mars bars, chopped
Flavourless oil, such as sunflower
or rapeseed
YOULL ALSO NEED
20cm square baking tin
A trip to the
sweetshop in
one cake
pie case with beaten egg, then press

the pastry ring on top. This will
create a secure seal for the lid. Roll
out the remaining pastry to a circle
about 24-25cm in diameter. Brush
the lip of the pie case with more
beaten egg, then place the pastry
circle on top. Crimp the edges
together using your forefinger and
thumb to seal the pie, then snip off
any excess pastry with scissors.
6 Brush the top of the
pie with beaten egg
and pierce a hole in
the middle to let out
steam as it cooks.
Use the trimmings
to decorate the pie,
if you like dont forget
to glaze them as well.
7 Bake the pie for 20
minutes. Turn down the oven

to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4, then
continue to bake for 40 minutes.
Cover with foil if the pie starts
to brown too much. Wait at least
30 minutes before slicing into
the pie that way it will hold
its shape better. You can also
serve it at room temperature.
(18g saturated), 25.3g protein, 81.2g
carbs (4.4g sugars), 2g salt, 6.9g fibre
NO-BAKE EASTER TREATS
Sweetshop crispy cakes

MAKES 25. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN,
PLUS CHILLING
Make the cakes up to 4 days

MAKE ahead, then keep in a tin in
AHEAD
the fridge or in a cool place.
1 Grease and line a 20cm square

baking tin with cling film. Put the
Rice Krispies in a large mixing
bowl with half the chopped Crunchie
bars and half the Mini Eggs, then
set aside.
2 Put the butter, marshmallows and
chopped Curly Wurly and Mars bars
in another medium, non-metallic,
heatproof mixing bowl. If you have a
microwave, melt the mixture on
a medium heat for 30-second bursts,
stirring after each one, until you
have a thick, gloopy, melted mixture.
Alternatively, sit the bowl over a
saucepan half-filled with simmering
water (make sure the water isnt
touching the bowl) and stir regularly
until the mixture melts.
3 Pour the melted mixture onto the
Rice Krispie mixture and quickly
stir. The mixture is very sticky,
so you need to work quickly. Spoon
into the prepared tin. Sprinkle the
remaining chopped Crunchie bars
and Mini Eggs over the top, then
rub a little flavourless oil onto your
hands and flatten the mixture into
the tin. Cover with cling film, then
chill for 2 hours or until ready to
serve. Slice into 25 squares.
PER CAKE 165kcals, 6.5g fat (3.8g
Fifty tiny ber ries in ever y jar

make it jam-packed with taste
We v e b e e n g r o w i n g L i t t l e S c a r l e t s t r a w b e r r i e s
picked
and
sorted
h e r e a t T i p t r e e f o r o v e r 1 0 0 y e a r s . To d a y,
estimated
o u r f o u n d e r s g r e a t g r a n d s o n s t i l l insists
Conser ve contains over fifty tiny ber ries,
o n u s i n g f r u i t t h a t s f r e s h f r o m t h e f i e l d s ,
ensuring you can really taste the difference.
that
entirely
each
jar
of
by
hand.
Little
I t s
Scarlet
The preser ve of g ood taste
WILKIN & SONS LIMITED
TIPTREE
COLCHESTER
ESSEX
CO5 0RF
W W W. T I P T R E E . C O M
EASTER
LUNCH
the way you always

hoped it would be...
RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING REBECCA WOOLLARD
PHOTOGRAPHS GARETH MORGANS STYLING TONY HUTCHINSON
Theres something special about people coming

together for the Easter weekend, without the hype
and pressure of Christmas. The food is more relaxed,
the company laid back, and theres (we hope) a
pleasant waft of spring in the air. This menu for
Easter Sunday reects that mood. The avours hint at warmer
days ahead, but are still properly comforting. Ive kept things
simple with a spectacular all-in-one roast, including some of
the best potatoes youll ever eat. Add a light and pretty starter,
some moreish nibbles and a magnicent make-ahead pudding,
and you have yourself a very pleasing Sunday lunch!
REBECCA WOOLLARD, FOOD EDITOR
the easter weekend.
Smoked mackerel
and quick-pickled
shallot toasts, p61
EASTER MENU FOR 8

Demerara and lemon
champagne cocktail
Smoked mackerel and quickpickled shallot toasts
%
Purple sprouting broccoli
with soft-boiled egg and crisp
rosemary breadcrumbs
%
Almond and herb stuffed leg of
pork with cont potatoes, apples
and madeira
Fennel, rocket and herb salad
with dijon vinaigrette
%
Vanilla cheesecake with
blood oranges, caramel and
hazelnut Hobnob crust
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE
Broccoli with soft-boiled

egg and breadcrumb
sprinkles; a demerara
champagne cocktail
to get things started;
the crispiest pork
and the best confit
potatoes, p62
the easter weekend.
Demerara and lemon

champagne cocktail
Put tsp demerara sugar in a
champagne glass. Pour over
a few drops of Angostura bitters
and a small squeeze of lemon
juice. Top with champagne and
a strip of lemon zest and serve.
Smoked mackerel
and quick-pickled
shallot toasts
PLUS UP TO 24 HOURS PICKLING
This is a take on the

KNOW- ridiculously great smoked
HOW
eel sandwich at Quo Vadis
restaurant in London. Weve used
smoked mackerel here, which is
easier to find, but if you can get
your hands on sustainable
smoked eel, use that instead.
Pickle the shallots and make
MAKE the dressing up to 24 hours
AHEAD
ahead and chill. Keep the
shallots in their pickling liquid, then
drain just before serving.
Add any leftover shallots
FOOD
TEAMS to salads, sprinkle them
TIPS
over grilled meat or fish,
or use in burgers.
2 small banana shallots, finely
sliced into rings
120ml red wine vinegar
3 tbsp caster sugar, plus extra
2 tsp salt
About 4 thin sourdough bread
slices, cut into 16-20 squares
250g smoked mackerel
fillets, skin removed
(see Know-how)
1 tbsp grated hot horseradish,
fresh or from a jar (we like
English Provender, from larger
supermarkets and good delis)
5 tbsp crme frache
garlic clove, crushed
1 Put the shallots in a small
heatproof bowl. Heat the vinegar,
caster sugar and salt in a saucepan
until the sugar has dissolved and the
mixture is steaming, then pour it
over the shallots in the bowl. Stir to

mix, then leave to pickle for at least
45 minutes or up to 24 hours.
2 Drain the shallots and set aside.
Lay the bread on a large baking sheet
along with the smoked mackerel
fillets. Put the baking sheet under a
medium-high grill for 3-4 minutes
until the bread is lightly toasted,
flip the bread and the fish fillets and
grill for 2-3 minutes more, then
leave to cool. Once you can handle
the mackerel, cut or flake into small
chunks to fit on the bread squares.
3 Combine the horseradish, crme
frache and garlic in a bowl and
season with salt and pepper. Spread
a little of the mixture over the slices
of toast, then top with a pieces of
smoked mackerel. Add a few rings
of shallot on top, grind over
a little black pepper, then serve
immediately while still warm.
(4.1g saturated), 9g protein,
15.9g carbs (7.2g sugars), 2g salt,
0.9g fibre
Purple sprouting
broccoli with soft-boiled
egg and crisp rosemary
breadcrumbs
Make the rosemary

MAKE
AHEAD breadcrumbs
24 hours ahead, then keep
covered somewhere cool and dry.
Blanch the broccoli up to
12 hours ahead, refresh under
cold water, then keep chilled.
Cook the broccoli in boiling water for
1-2 minutes before serving.
1 Put the eggs in a pan, cover with

boiling water, bring straight back to
the boil and cook for 6 minutes for
soft-boiled. Drain and run under
cold water for a minute or so to stop
them cooking further. Peel the eggs,
leaving them whole, and set aside.
2 To make the rosemary
breadcrumbs, heat the oil in
a frying pan over a medium heat.
Add the breadcrumbs, rosemary
and seasoning, then cook, stirring
often, for 5-6 minutes until the
breadcrumbs are golden and the
rosemary is fragrant. Remove from
the pan and set aside.
3 Trim the purple sprouting
broccoli and halve or quarter
any thick stems. Put in a large
saucepan, cover with boiling water
and simmer for 4-5 minutes until
tender. Drain and divide among
plates. Slice each egg in half
lengthways and put 2 halves on
each plate. Scatter with the
rosemary breadcrumbs, drizzle
with a little more olive oil and
squeeze over a little lemon
juice, with some salt and pepper
and the chilli flakes if using.
Serve immediately.
5g fibre
TEAM
FAVOURITE
Susan Low,
deputy editor
The mackerel
toasts taste
better than the
sum of their
parts think
fishfinger
sandwiches but
really poshed up
and youre
halfway there.
8 medium free-range eggs,

at room temperature
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil,
plus extra
100g dried breadcrumbs
4 fresh rosemary sprigs,
leaves finely chopped
1kg purple sprouting broccoli
Lemon juice for squeezing
Chilli flakes (optional; we like
Aleppo chilli flakes, from good
delis and ottolenghi.co.uk)
DRINKS
Susy Atkins
wine picks
The mackerel
toasts need a
particular type of
wine: one thats
crisp, whistleclean and dry.
A young French
sauvignon blanc,
and especially
in the form of a
lemony sancerre
or pouilly-fum,
will segue
through neatly
for the lovely
broccoli course.
For the leg of
pork, a premium,
ripe chenin blanc
from South Africa
makes a striking
match, or serve a
very soft Aussie
merlot for a red.
And for dessert,
chill a bottle
of rich, sweet,
orangey muscat
such as beaumes
de venise for a
luxurious flourish.
Almond and herb

stuffed leg of pork with
cont potatoes, apples
and madeira
SERVES 8 WITH LEFTOVER PORK. HANDS-ON
TIME 40 MIN, OVEN TIME 2 HOURS 10-45 MIN
Stuff the pork with the

MAKE stuffing 24 hours ahead. For
AHEAD
the best crackling, leave the
pork in the fridge overnight (away
from any raw food), skin-side up,
uncovered, to dry out the skin.
Slice the potatoes and apples up to
2-3 hours in advance. Leave them
soaking in lightly salted water
somewhere cool, but not the fridge.
Ask your butcher to bone,
FOOD
TEAMS roll and tie the pork leg but
TIPS
to leave the knuckle bone in.
Leftover pork makes a wonderful
sandwich the next day, with mustard
and any leftover fennel or rocket.
3.5kg British free-range pork leg,
boned, rolled and tied (see tips)
1.5kg red skinned potatoes, very
finely sliced
4 British eating apples, finely sliced
A few fresh thyme sprigs
1 garlic bulb, cloves separated
100g unsalted butter
100ml madeira
FOR THE STUFFING
50g unsalted butter

1 red onion, finely chopped
40g fresh or dried breadcrumbs
40g flaked toasted almonds,
quite finely chopped
Good splash madeira (enough to
make the stuffing sticky)
2 heaped tbsp finely chopped
mixed fresh herbs we used a mix
of rosemary, thyme and tarragon
YOULL ALSO NEED
Digital probe thermometer

1 To make the stuffing, heat a frying
pan and melt the 50g butter. Add the
onion and cook over a medium heat
for 8-9 minutes until the onion has
softened and taken on a little colour.
Dont worry if it catches and browns
a bit. Once softened, remove to a
mixing bowl, stir in the rest of the
stuffing ingredients, season well

and allow to cool completely. Heat
the oven to 230C/210C fan/gas 8.
2 Put the pork leg on a chopping
board with the thickest part facing
you. Although the meat is rolled,
there should still be a gap through
the middle of it that you can put your
fingers into. Using a spoon to help,
ease the stuffing into the hole, then
use your fingers to push it as far
down as you can. Keep going until
all the stuffing is used up if theres
any left over, you can roll it into balls
and bake it on top of the potatoes.
Season the pork well with
sea salt, put in a roasting tin and
roast in the oven for 25 minutes,
then turn the oven down to 170C/
150C fan/gas 3.
3 While the pork is in the oven,
toss the potatoes and apples
together and lay in your biggest
roasting tin (we used one that
spans the whole width of the oven).
Tuck in the thyme sprigs and garlic
cloves here and there. Heat the
100g butter with the 100ml madeira
in a pan until it boils, boil for
a minute, then pour over the
potatoes and apples. Season well.
4 Once the pork has cooked for 25
minutes, remove from the oven and
put it on top of the potatoes in the
middle of the roasting tin (reserve
the pork roasting tin for later). Put
the tin with the pork, potatoes and
apples on the middle rack of the
oven and roast for 1-2 hours until
the pork reads 60-65C when tested
in the thickest part with a digital
thermometer. Check how its getting
on after 1 hours depending on the
shape of the joint, it might be done.
5 Once the pork has reached its
temperature, remove the tin from
the oven, transfer the joint back
to the original roasting tin and turn
up the oven to 240C/220C fan/
gas 8. Set the potatoes and apples
aside, uncovered. Put a piece of foil
over the meat of the pork, leaving
the skin exposed, then return it
to the oven for 15-20 minutes to
crackle the skin. Once its crackled,
remove the pork and set it aside to
rest for 15-20 minutes. Meanwhile,
turn the oven back down to 170C/

150C fan/gas 3 and put the
potatoes and apples back in to warm
up. Carve the rested pork and serve
with the confit potatoes and apples.
4g fibre
For clever ways to use madeira,
turn to Loose Ends
Fennel, rocket and herb

salad with dijon
vinaigrette
Make the dressing up to

MAKE 48 hours in advance and
AHEAD
keep in an airtight container
in the fridge until needed. Put the
undressed salad in the serving
bowl, cover with a damp piece of
kitchen paper and keep in the fridge
for 12 hours (any longer and the
fennel will discolour).
2 fennel bulbs
100g rocket
2 handfuls fresh soft herb leaves
we used a mixture of basil, mint
and chives
2 tbsp dijon mustard
1 very finely chopped shallot
2 tbsp white wine vinegar
tsp caster sugar
5 tbsp light olive oil
Handful toasted flaked almonds
1 Trim and finely slice the fennel.
Toss with the rocket and herbs in a
bowl. In a small bowl or mug, mix
the mustard, shallot, white wine
vinegar, sugar and a large pinch of
sea salt. Whisk with a fork to mix.
2 Slowly pour in the olive oil, whisking
constantly, until it emulsifies into a
thick, smooth dressing. Taste and
season, adding sugar/vinegar if you
think it needs it. Drizzle the dressing
over the leaves, toss together, then
scatter with the toasted almonds
and serve immediately.
1.5g fibre
the easter weekend.
Almond and herb

stuffed leg of pork with
confit potatoes, apples
and madeira
Fennel, rocket
and herb salad
with dijon
vinaigrette, p62
the easter weekend.
COV ER R ECI PE
Vanilla cheesecake with

blood oranges, caramel &
hazelnut Hobnob crust
SERVES 12-16. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, OVEN
TIME 60 MIN, PLUS OVERNIGHT CHILLING
The cheesecake will keep

MAKE for up to 48 hours, in its tin,
AHEAD
wrapped in cling film. Make
the caramel up to 48 hours ahead.
Keep covered, then warm to loosen.
Put the orange segments on
FOOD
TEAMS the cheesecake just before
TIP
serving, or theyll leak juice,
spoiling the look. If you cant get
blood oranges, use regular oranges.
Vegetable oil for greasing
200g Hobnob biscuits
50g roasted chopped hazelnuts
360g full-fat cream cheese
250g mascarpone
175g soured cream
1 tsp vanilla bean paste
175g caster sugar
50g plain flour
FOR THE TOPPING
8-10 blood oranges (see tip)

100g caster sugar
30g unsalted butter
Splash rum, Cointreau or brandy
Pinch sea salt flakes
75ml double cream
YOULL ALSO NEED
20cm loose-bottomed deep cake tin

1 Lightly oil the cake tin. Whizz the
biscuits and hazelnuts in a food
processor until very finely ground.
With the motor running, pour in the
butter with a pinch of salt, then whizz
until the mixture looks like wet sand.
2 Tip some of the mixture into the
oiled cake tin. Using your fingers
and a metal spoon, flatten the
biscuit mixture onto the base, then
start to build up the sides, adding
extra mixture and working it up the
tin to form thin walls. Once youve
used up all the mixture, chill the
base in the fridge. Heat the oven to
3 To make the filling, put the cream

cheese, mascarpone, soured cream,
vanilla paste and 175g sugar in
a mixing bowl and whisk with an
electric mixer until smooth and
runny. Whisk in the eggs, then sift
over the plain flour and whisk that
in. Pour the mixture into the chilled
biscuit case, then transfer to the
oven, on a baking sheet, and bake
for 50-60 minutes until set around
the edges with a good wobble in the
middle. Remove from the oven, cool
and chill overnight.
4 For the topping, cut off the orange
peel with a sharp knife, then cut out
the segments, reserving the juices
its best to do this over a sieve in a
bowl. Put the sugar in a heavy-based
pan and heat very gently until the
sugar has dissolved dont stir it. If it
starts to caramelise too quickly in
patches, use a fork to disperse the
patches and redistribute the sugar.
Once the sugars melted, turn up the
heat slightly and cook to a rich
golden-red caramel. Remove from

the heat quickly and stir in the butter
and liqueur. It will spit, so be careful.
Add the salt, then stir in the cream.
5 Transfer the caramel to a bowl,
add 3 tbsp reserved juice from the
oranges, then leave to cool (you can
add more juice if the caramel sets
too firmly as it cools). Tip the orange
wedges onto a few layers of kitchen
paper, then pat gently with more
kitchen paper to dry them slightly.
6 Remove the cheesecake from the
fridge 30 minutes before serving.
Ease it out of its tin if it resists,
either run a mini blow-torch round
the edge or put it very briefly into a
warm oven to soften the butter in the
crust. Transfer to a serving plate.
Just before serving, pile the orange
wedges on top, drizzle over the
caramel, then slice and serve.
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the easter weekend.
THE HERITAGE INGREDIENT
SAFFRON
Painstakingly harvested from crocus owers, saffron has a reputation for being
tricky to cook with. The avour imparted by the orange-red threads is both subtle
and powerful but seasoned cook Debbie Major knows how to make it shine
RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING DEBBIE MAJOR PHOTOGRAPHS ANDREW MONTGOMERY STYLING POLLY WEBB-WILSON
Saffron has been one

of the worlds most
prized spices for
millennia. It comes
from the gently dried
stigmas of a mauve
species of crocus ower
Crocus sativus and it
takes more than 1,000
owers to produce just 100g saffron. Little
wonder its more expensive per gram than
gold. Its revered in the kitchen for its subtle
yet distinctively earthy, hay-like avours, as
well as for the deep yellow colour it imparts to
food. You have to be careful how much you
use, though, or it can taste medicinal.
Iran produces 90-95 per cent of the worlds
harvest, but its also grown in India, China,
Spain, Greece and North Africa, and on a
small scale in the east of England, where it was
introduced by the Romans. The harvesters
work through the night to pick the owers,
then painstakingly remove two or three
stigmas from each ower head, all by hand.
Buy whole threads, rather than powdered
saffron, for the freshest avour. I like to soak
the saffron in warm water or milk before
using, as this draws out the colour and avour.
Alternatively, toast the strands for 2-3 seconds
in a dry pan, then grind to a powder to use.
Saffron is used in all sorts of dishes think
bouillabaisse from France, risotto Milanese
from Italy and paella from Spain. It works
magic in soups, sweet and savoury breads,
milky puddings and ice cream, sauces and
potato dishes, all of which show off the spices
vibrant colour and complex avour.
THE INGREDIENTS
SAFFRON LOVES
Milk and cream
Rice
Bread
Fish & seafood
Chicken
Potatoes
Cauliower
White chocolate

beaten
75g salted butter, softened, plus
extra for greasing
Sunflower oil for greasing
75g each currants, raisins and
chopped candied peel, mixed
Clotted cream to serve
FOR THE DECORATION
25g plain flour

1 tsp sunflower oil
2-3 tbsp cold water
FOR THE GLAZE
Cornish saffron hot

cross bun loaf
SERVES 10-12. HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, OVEN
TIME 40 MIN, PLUS RISING AND PROVING
How the use of saffron in this

rich bread came about is a mystery.
It may have had something to do
with Phoenician sailors who
visited Cornwall to trade for tin
after visiting Lebanon, the Middle
East and North Africa, where the
spice was already a popular
ingredient in their cuisine. Here
Ive taken the idea of the
traditional sweetish, buttery
Cornish bread and turned it into
a hot cross bun loaf to serve over
Easter. Its also fantastic toasted
the next day.
Make the dough the day
MAKE before and let it prove
AHEAD
slowly in the fridge.
Or freeze the baked but unglazed
loaf up to one month in advance,
wrapped generously in cling film.
Warm through in a hot oven for
10 minutes before glazing and
serving as in the recipe.
1 tsp saffron strands (about 4g)
3 tbsp warm water, plus 1 tbsp
(optional)
500g strong plain flour, plus
extra to dust
Generous tsp salt
75g caster sugar
10g easy-blend yeast
175ml whole milk, warmed
75ml fresh orange juice

2 tbsp caster sugar or
clear honey
YOULL ALSO NEED
26cm x 12.5cm x 6cm deep (or

similar) 900g loaf tin it should
hold 2 litres water
1 Heat a small frying pan over
a medium-high heat. Add the saffron
and shake it around for a few
seconds until it darkens very slightly.
Tip into a mortar to cool, then grind
into a fine powder with a pestle. Add
the 3 tbsp warm water; leave to cool.
2 Sift the flour, salt, sugar and yeast
into a bowl and make a well in the
centre. Add the saffron water, warm
milk, eggs and 75g softened butter,
then mix lightly with your fingers
until everything comes together into
a slightly sticky (but not wet) dough.
Add the optional tablespoon of water
if the mixture seems a bit dry.
3 Turn the dough out onto a lightly
floured surface and knead for
10 minutes or until silky smooth.
Drop into a lightly oiled bowl, cover
with cling film and leave somewhere
warm to rise for 1-2 hours until
doubled in size. A rich dough such
as this takes a while to rise.
4 Turn the dough out of the bowl
onto a lightly floured surface and
knock out the excess air. Sprinkle
over some of the mixed dried fruit,
knead it in, then repeat until all the
fruit has been incorporated. Return
the dough to the oiled bowl,
re-cover and leave to rise for 1 hour
more or until doubled in size.
the easter weekend.
Spread with clotted

cream for the ultimate
Good Friday treat
5 Butter the loaf tin. Divide the

dough into 10 even pieces and knead
them into quite tall rounds. Arrange
side-by-side in the tin. Slide the tin
into a large plastic bag and seal,
then leave somewhere warm to
prove for 1 hour or until the dough
has risen to the top of the tin. When
it looks ready, heat the oven to
6 For the decoration, mix the flour,
oil and enough of the water to make
a smooth paste. Put the mix into a
plastic piping bag or small plastic
bag, then snip 4-5mm off the corner.
Take the loaf tin out of its bag, then
pipe a cross on top of each dough
ball. Put the loaf into the oven and
bake for 35-40 minutes until golden.
7 When the loaf is nearly ready,
simmer the orange juice and sugar/
honey in a small pan for a few
minutes until it has turned sticky.
8 Remove the loaf from the oven and
turn it out onto a cooling rack. Turn
it the right-side up and brush with the
sticky glaze. Leave to cool before
serving, cut into slices and spread
with clotted cream.
7.9g fat (4.2g saturated), 7g protein,
56.4g carbs (21.5g sugars),
Saffron crme brle tart

OVEN TIME 40 MIN, PLUS CHILLING
The custard creaminess of a

crme brle is the perfect home
for the subtle avour of saffron.
Set in a butter-crisp pastry, this
is a great do-ahead dessert for the
big holiday weekend.
Wrap the pastry dough
MAKE in cling film and keep in
AHEAD
the fridge for up to 24 hours
or the freezer for up to 1 month.
Make the tart up to 24 hours
in advance but omit the brle
topping (step 6) until youre ready
to serve. Keep the tart covered
in the fridge, then let it come
up to room temperature before
sprinkling with the sugar and
brleing the top.
If you dont have a blow

torch, either leave out the
brle topping, or sprinkle
the tart with the sugar, then slide
under a hot grill. Youll need to cover
the pastry edges with strips of foil to
prevent them burning while the
sugar caramelises.
FOOD
TEAMS
TIPS
FOR THE PASTRY CASE
225g plain flour, plus extra to dust

Pinch salt
65g icing sugar
125g lightly salted butter, chilled,
cut into small pieces
1 large egg yolk
4-5 tsp cold water
FOR THE FILLING
1 tsp saffron strands

100ml whole creamy milk or
Jersey milk
500ml double cream
6 large free-range egg yolks
50g caster sugar, plus 4 tbsp for
the brle topping
YOULL ALSO NEED
23cm x 4cm deep, loose-bottomed

tart tin
1 For the pastry, sift the flour,
salt and icing sugar into a food
processor. Add the butter and
process briefly until the mixture
looks like fine breadcrumbs. Beat
the egg yolk briefly with 4 tsp water.
Tip the crumbed mixture into a bowl
and stir in the egg yolk/water
mixture to bring the dough together
into a ball (add the extra tsp cold
water if its too dry). Turn out onto
a lightly floured surface and knead
briefly until smooth. Chill for 15
minutes, then remove from the
fridge and roll out thinly on a lightly
floured surface. Use the pastry to
line the tart tin, then rest the pastry
case in the fridge for 20 minutes.
2 Put a baking sheet onto the middle
rack of the oven and heat it to
200C/180C fan/gas 6. Line the
pastry case with foil, fill with baking
beans/uncooked rice, then bake, on
the hot baking sheet, for 15-20
minutes until the edges are
biscuit-coloured. Remove the foil
and beans/rice, protect the edge of

the case with thin strips of foil, then
return it to the oven for another
5 minutes or until the base is crisp
and biscuit brown. Remove and
leave to cool (leave the baking sheet
in the oven). Turn the oven down to
3 For the filling, heat a small, clean
frying pan over a medium-high heat.
Add the saffron strands and toss
them around for just a few seconds
until they look very slightly darker.
Tip them into a mortar, leave to cool
and become brittle, then grind the
strands into a fine powder with the
pestle. Heat the milk in a small pan
to almost boiling point, then pour it
onto the saffron powder and stir
well. Leave to cool.
4 Pour the double cream into a clean
pan and bring almost to the boil.
Meanwhile, stir the egg yolks and
50g sugar in a bowl until just
combined. Pour the hot cream onto
the egg yolks, stirring gently with a
whisk, then gently stir in the saffron
milk (you dont want to whisk a lot of
air into the custard). Strain through
a fine sieve into a large jug, then
scrape off and discard any froth
from the top with a spoon.
5 Pull the rack out of the oven and
put the pastry case onto the hot
baking sheet. Pour in the crme
brle mixture, then carefully slide
the rack back in. Bake for 25-30
minutes until the custard mixture
is softly set it should still wobble
slightly in the centre. Remove
the tart from the oven and leave
it to cool, then chill for at least
2 hours (see Make Ahead).
6 To brle the top of the tart (see
tips), sprinkle the remaining 4 tbsp
caster sugar in a thick, even layer
over the top of the custard. Hold
the flame of a blow torch just
above the surface and caramelise
the sugar, moving it around until
its evenly browned. Leave until
the caramel has cooled and set
before serving.
the easter weekend.
Saffron crme
brle tart
QUICK FIX
Sweet saffron lassi

SERVES 2-3. HANDS-ON TIME 10 MIN
Lightly toast a generous pinch of

saffron strands in a small, clean frying
pan. Cool, then grind to a powder in a
pestle and mortar. Stir in 1 tbsp hot milk
and leave to go cold. Tip into a liquidiser
and add 250ml ice-cold whole creamy
milk or Jersey milk, 500ml Greek-style
natural yogurt (I like Yeo Valley),
tsp cardamom powder (made from

grinding the seeds from 3-4 cardamom
pods in a pestle and mortar), and
3-4 tbsp caster sugar, according to taste.
Blend together in a processor until
slightly frothy. Pour into glasses over
a few ice cubes and garnish with 1 tbsp
finely chopped pistachio nuts.
PER SERVING (FOR 3) 363kcals, 22.5g fat
(13.6g saturated), 13.4g protein, 40g
carbs (39.2g sugars), 0.6g salt, no fibre
the easter weekend.
FOR THE TOPPING
1.25kg floury potatoes (king

edward or maris piper)
50g butter
1 large free-range egg yolk
1-2 tbsp whole milk
Saffron sh pie
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR,
OVEN TIME 35-40 MIN
In the past Ive added lightly

cooked shelled mussels and
scallop slices to this pie. For
extra luxury you could use small
peeled langoustine or craysh tails
in place of the prawns.
NEXT
MONTH
Debbie cooks
with creamy
milk from the
Channel Islands
Prepare the filling (to the

MAKE end of step 4) 24 hours
AHEAD
ahead. Cool, keep covered
in the fridge, then continue with the
recipe when ready.
tsp saffron strands

200ml double cream
300ml whole milk or Jersey milk
1 small onion, thickly sliced
4 fresh bay leaves
500g cod or haddock fillet, skin on
250g undyed smoked cod/haddock
250g salmon fillet, skin on
100g raw North Atlantic prawns,
peeled (from about 300g whole,
unpeeled prawns)
1 tbsp small capers, drained
and rinsed
50g butter
45g plain flour
2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
1 Heat a small frying pan over a

medium-high heat. Add the saffron
and shake it around for a few
seconds until it darkens very slightly.
Tip into a mortar and cool, then grind
into a fine powder with the pestle.
2 Put the saffron powder, cream,
milk, onion, bay leaves, white fish,
smoked fish and salmon into a
saucepan. Bring just to the boil,
lower the heat, then simmer for
7-8 minutes until the fish is just
cooked through. Lift the fish onto
a plate and leave it to cool slightly.
Strain the cooking liquid into a jug.
3 Flake the cooked fish into a shallow
2-2.25 litre ovenproof dish, discarding
the skin and any bones. Scatter over
the peeled prawns and the capers.
4 Melt the butter in a clean pan,
add the flour and cook, stirring, for
1 minute. Remove the pan from the
heat, then gradually stir in the
reserved cooking liquid. Return the
pan to the heat and bring to the boil,
stirring, then simmer gently for
5 minutes to reduce slightly and cook
out the flour. Remove from the heat
and stir in the parsley. Season to
taste with salt and white pepper. Pour
the sauce over the fish and leave to
cool uncovered so it forms a skin.
gas 6. To make the topping, put the
potatoes in a pan, cover with salted
water, put over a high heat, then bring
to the boil. Cook for 20 minutes or
until tender. Drain well, return to the
pan, then mash until smooth. Beat
in the butter, egg yolk and milk, then
season. Pipe or spoon the mash
over the filling, then bake for 35-40
minutes until browned and bubbling.
5g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE A white
bordeaux, ideally a premium
example from the Graves region.
Same great taste, same servings, now in a
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THE COLLECTORS EDITION
CHOCOLATE
10 OUTSTANDING RECIPES TO PULL OUT AND KEEP
Our favourite
chocolate
fondants,
page X
II deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate
Sour cherry and

chocolate simnel
cake with hazelnut
marzipan, page X
deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate III
Chocolate truffle
no-churn ice cream in
a banana, peanut and
caramel sundae, page IX
IV deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate
Pecan and pretzel salted

caramel bars, page IX
deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate V
Mini melting
chocolate
pastries, page VIII
VI deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate
Chocolate mousse and

passion fruit tart, page VIII
deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate VII
60ml (4 tbsp) liquid glucose (available

in the baking aisle of supermarkets)
YOULL ALSO NEED
25cm loose-bottomed fluted

tart tin
Mini melting
chocolate pastries
Chocolate mousse
and passion fruit tart
MAKES AROUND 30. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN,
OVEN TIME 15 MIN, PLUS CHILLING
PLUS CHILLING
Cover and chill the unglazed,

MAKE unbaked pastries for 24 hours,
AHEAD
or freeze for 1 month. Glaze,
then bake (if baking from frozen, cook
for an extra 2 minutes).
This will happily sit in the

MAKE fridge overnight. Bring to room
AHEAD
temperature before serving.
Passion fruit are at their
KNOW- ripest when their skins
HOW
have turned wrinkly.
To prevent the mousse mixture
FOOD
TEAMS from splitting when you add
TIPS
the egg yolks and passion fruit
at the end of step 2, make sure the
melted chocolate mixture has cooled
completely. If it splits, whisk in some of
the cold, unwhipped cream. It may look
grainy but it will come good in the fridge.
If you have a blowtorch, you can briefly
run it over the top of the finished tart to
give it a professional-looking glaze.
320g pack ready-rolled all-butter

puff pastry
100g bar dark chocolate (70% cocoa
solids)
1 medium free-range egg, beaten
Demerara sugar to sprinkle
Dark and white chocolate, melted
separately, to decorate
gas 6. Unroll the pastry onto a work
surface. Using a rolling pin, gently roll
it out to the thickness of a 1 coin. Cut
the pastry in half, widthways, then
break the chocolate into its individual
pieces and distribute evenly over 1 piece
of pastry, leaving a 1cm gap between
each piece of chocolate and at the edges.
2 Brush between the chocolate pieces
with beaten egg, then lay the other
piece of pastry over the top. Use your
fingers to press down the pastry around
the chocolate, pushing out the air.
3 Using a sharp knife, cut the pastry into
even pieces, leaving a border around
each chocolate piece. Put on a nonstick baking sheet, brush with beaten
egg to glaze, press down the edges with
a fork to seal, then chill for 30 minutes.
4 Glaze again, then sprinkle with sugar
and bake for 15 minutes or until golden.
Cool for 2 minutes, drizzle with melted
chocolate, then serve warm.
PER PASTRY 81kcals, 5.1g fat (2.6g
VIII deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate
FOR THE BASE

350g Oreo biscuits
2 tbsp cocoa powder
FOR THE MOUSSE
200g dark chocolate (at least 70%

cocoa solids), chopped into chunks
200g good quality milk chocolate,
chopped into chunks
60g light muscovado sugar
75g unsalted butter
2 medium free-range egg yolks
Pulp from 5 passion fruit, whizzed in
a food processor, then sieved and
seeds discarded, plus extra passion
fruit pulp to serve
300ml whipping cream, cold
FOR THE GANACHE TOPPING
200g dark chocolate, at least 70%

cocoa solids, broken into small pieces
65g unsalted butter
1 To make the base, lightly oil the tart

tin. Put the Oreos and cocoa powder in
a food processor and whizz until finely
ground. With the motor running, pour
in the melted butter and whizz until the
mixture resembles wet sand. Press
the mixture over the base and up the
sides of the tin to form a compacted
crust (depending on the depth of your
tin you might have some mixture left
its great crumbled over ice cream).
Chill while you make the filling.
2 For the mousse, put the dark and milk
chocolates, sugar and butter in a large
heatproof bowl set over a pan of
steaming (not bubbling) water. Heat
gently, stirring once or twice, until
melted, smooth and thick. Take off the
heat, cool until at room temperature
(see tips), then whisk in the egg yolks
and passion fruit pulp.
3 In a separate mixing bowl, whisk the
cream until softly pillowy, then fold
2 spoonfuls into the chocolate mixture
using a balloon whisk. Fold in the
remaining cream in thirds, being
careful not to knock out the air. Spoon
the mixture into the tart case, then
chill for 3-4 hours or overnight until
completely set.
4 To make the ganache topping, put
the chocolate, butter and glucose in
a heatproof bowl set over a pan of
gently steaming water (dont let the
water touch the base of the bowl) and
melt gently, without stirring, until
smooth. Stir briefly to combine, then
leave for 5 minutes to cool a little.
5 Pour the ganache over the set
chocolate mousse, tipping the tart
to distribute it evenly dont stir or
spread it, or youll ruin the shine.
Chill the tart for 1 hour or overnight
(see Make Ahead). Take out of the
fridge 30 minutes before serving it with
the extra passion fruit pulp (see tips).
protein, 44g carbs (34.7g sugars),
0.3g salt, 2g fibre
Edd Kimbers pecan and

pretzel salted caramel bars
MAKES 12. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME
30 MIN, PLUS AT LEAST 4 HOURS COOLING
FOR THE SHORTBREAD BASE
160g unsalted butter, diced and

chilled, plus extra to grease
160g plain flour
60g caster sugar
Pinch sea salt flakes
FOR THE PECAN SALTED CARAMEL
200g pecans
300g caster sugar
200ml double cream
100g unsalted butter, diced
1 tsp sea salt flakes
and cook over a medium heat, without

stirring, until melted and caramelised.
Take off the heat and carefully add the
cream in 2 batches (it may spit), waiting
until the bubbling has subsided before
adding more. Stir in the butter and salt.
5 Return to the heat and cook, stirring
occasionally, until the caramel reaches
116C on a sugar thermometer or digital
probe thermometer. Immediately take
off the heat, add the chopped pecans,
mixing briefly to combine, then pour
over the shortbread and spread it
evenly with a spatula. Set aside for at
least 4 hours (or overnight) to cool.
6 For the topping, melt the chocolate
in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of
simmering water (dont let the water
touch the bowl), then drizzle or pipe it
over the bars. Press the pretzels into
the chocolate to finish. Let the chocolate
set before cutting into bars. Theyll
keep in a sealed container for 2 days.
PER BAR 590kcals, 41.1g fat (19.3g
Edd (theboywhobakes.co.uk) regularly
appears in delicious. as a baking expert.
300g dark chocolate, preferably 70%

cocoa solids, chopped into chunks
397g tin condensed milk
500ml double cream
100g milk chocolate, chopped into
small chunks
1 Put the dark chocolate into a
heatproof bowl set over a pan of gently
steaming, not quite simmering water
(dont let the water touch the bowl).
Leave to melt for 8-10 minutes, stirring
only once or twice, until smooth. Leave
to cool to just above room temperature,
then stir in the condensed milk.
2 Put the double cream in a mixing bowl,
then softly whip until pillowy and just
holding its peaks. Drizzle with the
condensed milk mixture, folding it in
with a balloon whisk as you go. Once
combined, fold in the milk chocolate
chunks, transfer to a freezerproof
sealable container (try not to knock out
the air) and freeze for at least 8 hours
(see tips). Bring out of the freezer
10 minutes before serving, to soften.
PER SERVING (PER 65G SCOOP)
290kcals, 20.8g fat (12.8g saturated),
2.9g protein, 22.6g carbs (22.5g sugars),
FOR THE TOPPING
50g dark chocolate

50g salted pretzels
Banana, peanut and caramel

chocolate ice cream sundae
YOULL ALSO NEED
Sugar thermometer or digital probe

thermometer
gas 6. Lightly grease a 20cm square
cake tin and line crossways with 2 strips
of baking paper so the ends overhang.
2 For the shortbread base, put the flour,
sugar and salt in a food processor and
pulse to combine. Add the 160g butter
and the vanilla, then whizz until it
resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Tip
into the cake tin, then use your hands
to press into an even layer. Chill for
30 minutes, then prick the base with
a fork. Bake for 30 minutes or until
pale golden brown. Set aside to cool.
3 For the caramel, put the pecans in
a baking tray and toast in the oven for
about 10 minutes or until fragrant. Tip
onto a chopping board and roughly chop.
4 Put the sugar into a medium saucepan
Chocolate truffle
no-churn ice cream
MAKES 1-1.2 LITRES. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN,
PLUS FREEZING
The ice cream will keep in the

MAKE freezer, in a sealed container,
AHEAD
for up to 1 month.
This easy chocolate ice cream
FOOD
TEAMS is essentially a frozen truffle
TIPS
mixture. If youre serving it
as a sundae (see right and above) or
with another pud we recommend
freezing it in balls (its easy to scoop
unfrozen) on trays. Its also great
unfrozen, served as a chilled mousselike dessert or eaten, frozen, straight
from the bowl as a late-night treat.
Put a heavy-based frying pan over a

medium heat and add 200g caster
sugar and 100ml water. Heat gently
without stirring until the sugar
melts, then turn up the heat and boil
to a rich red caramel.
Add 3 just-ripe bananas, peeled
and diagonally sliced, along with 50g
butter, then cook until golden and
caramelised on one side. Turn and
cook on the other side. Stir a handful
of salted roasted peanuts into the
caramel, being careful not to nudge
the bananas too much. Once the
bananas are golden and cooked
through, lift them onto a plate, then
add 75g crme frache and a large
splash of rum, beer or brandy to the
caramel. Stir to combine.
Layer balls of chocolate ice cream
in sundae glasses with caramelised
bananas and warm peanut caramel,
adding a few extra dollops of crme
frache if you like. Serve immediately.
2g fibre
deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate IX
Our favourite
chocolate fondants
John Whaites sour cherry

and chocolate simnel cake
with hazelnut marzipan
OVEN TIME 15 MIN
SERVES 12-16. HANDS ON TIME 40 MIN,

OVEN TIME 1 HOUR, PLUS COOLING
At the end of step 2, chill the

MAKE fondants overnight or freeze for
AHEAD
up to 1 month. If chilling, bring
to room temperature to bake. If freezing,
bake from frozen for 19-20 minutes.
225g lightly salted butter, plus 25g
melted butter for brushing
Cocoa powder for dusting
300g dark chocolate, at least 70%
cocoa solids, broken into pieces
400g caster sugar
tsp vanilla extract
5 large free-range eggs, beaten
220g plain flour
YOULL ALSO NEED
8 x 175ml metal pudding basins

1 Brush inside the basins with melted
butter, then add a spoon of cocoa
powder to one and shake gently to coat.
Tip any excess cocoa into the next basin
and repeat, adding extra cocoa as
needed, until all the moulds are coated.
2 Put the chocolate and 225g butter in a
heavy-based saucepan,then melt over
a low heat, stirring occasionally, until
smooth and glossy. Whisk in the sugar,
then the vanilla, then the eggs, one by
one. Gently fold in the flour, then divide
among the basins (see Make Ahead).
gas 4. Put the basins in a baking tray and
bake for 17 minutes exactly. Remove
from the oven, leave for 30 seconds, then
run a knife around the edges and invert
onto serving plates. Serve with vanilla
ice cream, cream or crme frache.
PER FONDANT 789kcals, 40.6g fat (23.9g
X deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate
Make the cake up to 48 hours in

MAKE advance, then keep in a sealed
AHEAD
container (not in the fridge).
PLEASE NOTE Contains raw egg
120g unsalted butter, softened, plus
extra to grease
100g caster sugar
300g dark brown muscovado sugar
135g (when drained) cherries in kirsch
100g full-fat Greek yogurt
320g self-raising flour
80g cocoa powder
1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
200ml cherry juice drink
(or pomegranate juice)
250g dried sour cherries
FOR THE MARZIPAN
1 large egg
75g caster sugar
80g icing sugar
15g liquid glucose (from the baking
section in supermarkets)
1 tbsp brandy, rum or vodka
200g blanched hazelnuts, finely
ground in a food processor
FOR THE GANACHE
100g Bournville chocolate

100ml double cream
50g Nutella
Cocoa powder for dusting
YOULL ALSO NEED
23cm x 8-10cm deep cake tin

gas 3. Grease and line the base and
sides of a deep 23cm cake tin.
2 For the marzipan, put the egg,

sugar, icing sugar and glucose into
a heatproof mixing bowl and set
over a pan of barely simmering water.
Beat with a handheld electric mixer
until very pale and fluffy about
5 minutes. Remove from the heat and
beat in the alcohol, then tip in the
ground hazelnuts and mix to a thick
paste using a wooden spoon. Using
your hands, knead the mixture
vigorously for 1-2 minutes until fairly
smooth. It wont be as smooth as regular
marzipan, but it will come together.
Wrap in cling film and set aside.
3 Put the butter, sugars, drained
cherries and yogurt in a food processor.
Whizz until mixed, then add the
remaining ingredients, except the sour
cherries, and whizz to a smooth batter.
Add the dried sour cherries and pulse
until just incorporated.
4 Tear off two thirds of the marzipan
and carefully roll between 2 pieces of
baking paper into a disc just smaller
than the cake tin (the hazelnut
marzipan is more fragile than regular
almond marzipan). Roll the remaining
marzipan into 11 equal balls.
5 Pour half the cake batter into the tin,
then top with the marzipan disc. Pour
in the remaining cake batter, then bake
for 90 minutes or until a skewer pushed
into the middle comes out clean.
6 To make the ganache, roughly chop
the chocolate and put it in a heatproof
bowl with the cream. Set the bowl over
a pan of barely simmering water (dont
let the water touch the bowl) and stir
together until you have a smooth,
glossy ganache. Remove from the heat
and beat in the Nutella. Leave to cool at
room temperature until spreadable.
7 When the cake comes out of the oven,
allow it to cool completely in the tin,
then invert onto a cake stand. Spread
the ganache over the top, then
arrange the 11 balls of marzipan
around the edge. Sift a little extra
cocoa powder over the top to finish.
24.5g fat (9.7g saturated), 9.6g protein,
4.2g fibre
GBBO champ John (johnwhaite.com) has
opened a cookery school in Lancashire.
His third book is out next month.
Chocolate porter
cake, page XV
deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate XI
Chocolate and
hazelnut sharing
loaf, page XV
XII deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate
Chocolate coffee
meringue roulade,
page XVI
deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate XIII
Hot cross bun

brownies, page XVI
XIV deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate
Chocolate porter cake
bake for 1 hour or until a skewer comes

out clean. Leave for 5 minutes, then
turn out onto a wire rack to cool.
4 Meanwhile, in a large bowl, beat the
topping ingredients with an electric
mixer until the mix just holds its shape.
Swirl the icing on top of the cooled cake.

OVEN TIME 1 HOUR, PLUS COOLING
The un-iced cake will keep for

MAKE up to 2 days in a container in
AHEAD
a cool place. It will keep frozen,
wrapped in cling film, for up to 1 month.
260ml porter (we like St Peters
Old-Style Porter)
100g dark chocolate (70% cocoa
solids), chopped into chunks
50g cocoa powder
200g caster sugar
200g soft light brown sugar
150g full-fat Greek yogurt
2 tsp vanilla bean extract
280g plain flour
2 tsp bicarbonate of soda
FOR THE TOPPING
200g full-fat cream cheese (we like

Philadelphia)
80g icing sugar
200ml double cream
YOULL ALSO NEED
Deep 23cm loose-bottomed cake tin

gas 4. Grease a deep 23cm loosebottomed cake tin and line with baking
paper. In a large pan, gently warm the
porter, butter and chocolate until the
butter and chocolate have melted.
2 Mix the cocoa powder and sugars
in a large bowl, rubbing away lumps.
Pour in the chocolate mixture gradually,
whisking well using a balloon whisk,
then add the eggs. Whisk until its thick
and smooth, then whisk in the yogurt,
vanilla, flour and bicarbonate of soda.
3 Pour the batter into the lined tin and
Richard Bertinets
chocolate and hazelnut
sharing loaf
SERVES 12. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR,
OVEN TIME 25 MIN, PLUS 1 HOUR 45 MIN RISING
AND 30 MIN PROVING
Prepare the dough up to the

MAKE end of step 3. Put in a lightly
AHEAD
greased bowl and cover with
cling film. Chill for up to 12 hours.
250g whole milk
15g fresh or 7g fast-action dried
yeast
70g unsalted butter, softened
500g strong bread flour, plus extra
10g salt
50g caster sugar
FOR THE FILLING
200g whole hazelnuts

80g mixed peel
Zest 1 orange
150g milk chocolate chips
FOR THE EGG WASH
1 free-range egg, beaten

1 Warm the milk in a small pan over
a low heat to blood temperature. In a
large mixing bowl, rub the fresh yeast
into the flour (or stir in if youre using
dried), rub in the butter, then stir
in the remaining ingredients.

2 On a lightly floured work surface,
knead the dough using the Bertinet
method [see deliciousmagazine.co.uk/
bertinet-kneads] until it starts to feel
elastic. Keep working it until it comes
cleanly away from the work surface and
is silky and smooth (10-15 minutes).
3 Dust the work surface again with
flour and shape the dough into a ball
by folding each edge in turn into the
centre and pressing down with your
thumb, rotating the ball as you go. Turn
the ball over and stretch and tuck the
edges under. Put into a bowl and cover
with a tea towel. Leave for 1 hour in
a draught-free place until roughly
doubled in size. (See Make Ahead.)
4 While the dough is rising, make the
filling. Gently toast the hazelnuts in a
dry frying pan. Tip out into a sturdy
bowl and allow to cool, then crush with
the end of a rolling pin. Add the mixed
peel, zest and chocolate chips to the
crushed hazelnuts and mix together.
5 Turn out the dough onto the work
surface with the smooth side facing
down and open it up gently so you can
add the filling. Push the filling into
the dough, then roll the dough onto
itself to mix in the filling so its evenly
distributed. Form the dough into a ball,
return to the bowl, cover with cling film
and leave to rise for 45 minutes.
gas 6. Divide the dough into 12 roughly
equal pieces and shape into small
balls. Line a baking tray with baking
paper. Place 6 balls on the paper in
a circular, flower petal arrangement,
then surround with the remaining 6.
All the balls should be touching a couple
of the others so as they bake they meld
together into a tear-and-share loaf.
Cover loosely with cling film and leave
to prove for 30 minutes or until puffed.
7 For the egg wash, mix the beaten
egg with a pinch of salt, then brush a
thin layer over the loaf. Repeat, then
bake for 20-25 minutes. Remove and
allow to cool before sharing.
PER SERVING 450kcals, 22.1g fat (7.2g
saturated), 12g protein, 49.2g carbs
Richard is an authority on bread and pastry
and runs a world-renowned cookery
school in Bath (bertinetkitchen.com).
deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate XV
Chocolate coffee
meringue roulade
OVEN TIME 28-32 MIN, PLUS CHILLING

6 medium free-range egg whites
2 tbsp plain flour
60g ground almonds
1 tbsp espresso coffee powder
dissolved in 1 tsp boiling water
Handful flaked almonds
Dark chocolate, melted,
to drizzle
FOR THE CHOCOLATE SPREAD
200g dark chocolate (70% cocoa

solids), chopped into chunks
50g salted butter
120ml double cream
tsp sea salt flakes
minutes. Lift the meringue from the tin

on its paper and cool for 10 minutes on
a wire rack, then invert onto another
piece of baking paper to cool completely.
4 Meanwhile, make the chocolate
spread: melt the chocolate in a heatproof
bowl over a pan of simmering water
(dont let the water touch the bowl).
When melted, add the butter and stir
gently, then leave to cool for 15 minutes.
Add the cream gradually, beating
between additions with a balloon
whisk, then add the salt. Spread evenly
over the cooled meringue, then chill
the whole dessert for 15 minutes.
5 For the cream filling, put the cream,
icing sugar and coffee in a clean mixing
bowl. Whisk with an electric mixer until
it starts to thicken. Continue in bursts
until you get soft peaks (that fall over).
6 Spread the cream on top of the
chocolate spread. Starting with a short
edge, carefully roll up the meringue,
using the baking paper to help. Wrap
the paper tightly around and chill for at
least 3 hours. To serve, put on a plate,
drizzle with melted chocolate and slice.
PER SERVING (FOR 10) 529kcals, 31.9g
fat (17.4g saturated), 5.9g protein, 54g
carbs (51.2g sugars), 0.5g salt, 0.9g fibre
FOR THE CREAM FILLING
200ml double cream

40g icing sugar
1 tsp espresso coffee powder,
dissolved in 1 tsp boiling water
gas 6. Line a 23cm x 33cm lipped swiss
roll tin or baking tray with baking
paper, then lightly oil the paper.
2 In a large clean bowl, whisk the egg
whites with an electric mixer until thick,
glossy and holding medium peaks. On
a low speed, whisk in the sugar, a little
at a time, then add the flour, ground
almonds and coffee until just combined.
3 Spread the meringue evenly into the
tin, scatter over the flaked almonds,
then bake for 8 minutes. Lower the
oven temperature to 160C/140C fan/
gas 4 and cook for a further 20-25
Paul A Youngs
hot cross bun brownies
MAKES 16-25, DEPENDING ON SIZE.
HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN TIME 35-40 MIN,
PLUS COOLING AND CHILLING OVERNIGHT
These will keep for 2 weeks,

MAKE chilled in an airtight container.
AHEAD
Eat at room temperature.
If youre not making the
FOOD
TEAMS brownies for Easter, try
TIP
substituting the hot cross buns
with pieces of honeycomb, biscuit
or pretzel and leave out the spices.

You could pipe melted white chocolate
crosses over each brownie to create
a festive hot cross bun appearance.
175g salted butter
80g golden syrup
1 tbsp ground cinnamon
1 tbsp freshly grated nutmeg
320g dark chocolate (70% cocoa),
chopped into small pieces
4 medium free-range eggs, beaten
70g plain flour
2-3 hot cross buns, split, toasted
and cooled (see tip)
YOULL ALSO NEED
20cm square cake tin

1 Melt the butter and syrup in a large
saucepan over a medium heat. Add the
sugar and spices, then simmer for 3-4
minutes until dissolved. Take off the
heat, add the chocolate and mix with
a wooden spoon. Add the beaten egg
and mix in until smooth. Finally, add
the flour and beat until incorporated.
2 Line a 20cm square tin with baking
paper. Tear the toasted hot cross buns
into rough 2cm square pieces and
scatter them into the tin.
gas 4. Spoon the brownie mix into the
tin and allow to stand for 15 minutes so
the mix settles over and into the buns.
4 Bake for 35-40 minutes until gently
set and wobbly in the middle. Dont be
tempted to leave the brownies in the
oven longer than the cooking time as
theyll become dry.
5 Allow to cool, then chill overnight.
The next day, turn out, remove the
baking paper and trim the edges (for
nibbling!). Turn the right way up and cut
into squares to serve. A knife dipped in
hot water will make this much easier.
PER BROWNIE (FOR 25) 212kcals,
0.2g salt, 1g fibre
What Paul doesnt know about chocolate
isnt worth knowing. His London shops
(paulayoung.co.uk) are sweet havens.
RECIPES REBECCA WOOLLARD, LOTTIE COVELL, RICHARD BERTINET, PAUL A YOUNG, JOHN WHAITE, EDD KIMBER
PHOTOGRAPHS TOBY SCOTT FOOD STYLING REBECCA WOOLLARD STYLING OLIVIA WARDLE
XVI deliciousmagazine.co.uk/chocolate
reader event.
A NIGHT TO
REMEMBER
Hang out with the

innovative chef
in his flagship
Marylebone
restaurant
JOIN US
FOR DINNER
WITH PETER
GORDON
This is going to be one special evening An exclusive night of innovative cooking by top chef
Peter Gordon, exclusively for delicious. readers, at his celebrated London restaurant
he king of fusion food is about to launch a new

book, and to celebrate, Peter Gordon is inviting
you to The Providores, his flagship restaurant in
Marylebone, for an intimate evening of food and chat.
The night will begin with fizz and canaps, followed by
a four-course dinner with expertly matched New Zealand
wines. Peter will explain the origin of each dish, and
there will be time for guests to talk to the gregarious
Kiwi chef over coffee and petits fours. Karen Barnes,
editor of delicious., will be on hand for a chat too. It will
be a night of great flavours and lasting memories.
Peters new book, Savour: Salads for all Seasons
(25; Jacqui Small), is out on 21 April.
WHERE The Providores,

109 Marylebone High Street, London W1
WHEN 710.30pm, Wednesday 4 May 2016

COST 95 (includes sparkling wine and
canaps, a four-course dinner with wine
and service, plus a signed cookbook and
a bag of goodies to take home)
HOW TO BOOK To snap up your tickets, visit
deliciousmagazine.co.uk/petergordon
Nathan Outlaws guide to
THE BEST
SEAFOOD
Despite his name, hes one of the good guys especially when it comes
to giving sh the respect it deserves. The delicious. team travelled to his
adopted home, Cornwall, to sample the sublime cooking of the gentle giant
Megrim sole with grape

dressing and roast
garlic & potato pure, p82
PHOTOGRAPHS GARETH MORGANS FOOD STYLING LOTTIE COVELL STYLING OLIVIA WARDLE INTERVIEW FIONA BECKETT
whats good now.
MEET THE CHEF

Nathan was born in Kent but
has been living and cooking
in Cornwall for years, where
he has a mini-empire of
restaurants. His flagship is
the two Michelin-starred
Restaurant Nathan Outlaw
in Port Isaac. He also has
more casual places to eat
in Rock and Port Isaac and
an outpost at the Capital
Hotel in London. Its
a business to rival that of
his mentor Rick Stein. Hes
written two cookbooks on
fish, with a third, Everyday
Seafood, out next month.
N
Crispy hake with
cauliflower
pure, apples
and walnuts, p80
athan Outlaw, all 6ft 5in of him, sits behind

his plate of sh beaming. The food stylist
beams, the photographer beams, we all
beam. Nathans known as one of the nicest chefs
in the business and his grin is infectious. Hes like
a real-life Captain Birds Eye.
Hearing his soft burr youd think he was a
Cornishman, but he was born in Kent and restaurants
are in his blood. His dad was a chef and Nathan started
working for him at 14 (hes still only 38). He left school
at 16, went to catering college and did time with some
of Londons top chefs before moving to Cornwall to
work with Rick Stein in Padstow.
It was there he met his wife Rachel, a local girl. They
set up a restaurant together, where he was awarded a
Michelin star at the tender age of 25, and two Michelin
stars when he moved it to the St Enodoc hotel in nearby
Rock seven years later. Port Isaac became the couples
permanent base in late 2014. A sh restaurant has to be
some place where there is a shing community. I moved
to secure my familys future. Its just me and my wife
no investors or anything,
he says proudly.
Unusually, the restaurant
has a no-choice menu
based entirely on seafood.
Why limit himself in that
way? Turns out he has an
almost geeky love of sh
the look, the preparation,
the satisfaction of working
with local produce
I love meat and vegetables
but they dont challenge
me like seafood. Prepping sh is therapeutic. Its
a craft skill but a dying one. And I do it very fast!
Cue the boyish grin again.
Youve got to know your sh, he says. We only
buy off small day-boats that sh sustainably. I talk
to the shermen and take advantage of the best of
whats available. For example, March is good for brill,
turbot and lemon sole. I taste all the sh raw when
it comes in at the back door before I decide what Im
going to do with it. In Cornwall we get 30 varieties
of sh that are good enough to go on the menu.
Nathan produces surprisingly delicate, elegantlooking plates and it turns out he has an artistic
bent. Art has always been an interest. I was
forever drawing when I was a kid and it was
one of my possible career options at school.
Considering hes achieved almost everything he
wanted to achieve well before hes reached 40, does
he have any unfullled ambitions? He thinks for a
minute. Id like to go back and learn about animation.
Ive always loved the Disney cartoons Old Mickey
Mouse, Looney Tunes Watch out for the Nathan
Outlaw Cartoon Channel in 20 years time.
I taste all the

sh raw when
it comes in at
the back door
before I decide
what Im going
to do with it
Nathan only
uses fish caught by
small day boats
whats good now.
Soused sardines
with red cabbage and
seaweed salad
cream, p82
NATHANS GUIDE TO BUYING

SUSTAINABLY CAUGHT FISH
O If you dont have a local fishmonger,

you can buy fresher fish online than
youll find in most supermarkets
try wingofstmawes.co.uk or fishfor
thought.co.uk.
O If your fishmonger cant tell you
where your fish was caught theyre
not a good person to buy from.
O Look out for fish from day boats
certified by the Responsible Fishing
Scheme (seafish.org/rfs).
O Go for fish identified as sustainable
by the Cornwall Good Seafood Guide
(cornwallgoodseafoodguide.org.uk)
or that carry the Marine Stewardship
Council (MSC) label. Download the
app at goodfishguide.org.
Squid, fennel and

chorizo salad with
orange oil
PLUS OVERNIGHT INFUSING
This makes more orange

oil than you need, but its great
drizzled over all sorts of salads
or stirred into homemade
mayonnaise for shellsh.
For how to segment an
orange, see delicious
magazine.co.uk/orangesegments. Ask your fishmonger
to prepare the squid for you or
see deliciousmagazine.co.uk/
prep-squid.
FOOD
TEAMS
TIPS
into the bowl or onto the serving

platter with the fennel and orange
segments. Add the chives and
toss together. Taste and adjust
the seasoning if necessary,
then drizzle with 5 tbsp of the
orange oil and serve.
3.1g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE
Chill a modern, zesty Spanish white
for this a verdejo from the Rueda
region is especially good.
200g walnuts, toasted on a baking

sheet in a medium oven until
fragrant, then roughly chopped
2 tbsp chopped fresh chives
Around 1-2 litres sunflower oil for
deep-frying
Crispy hake with

cauliower pure,
apples and walnuts
YOULL ALSO NEED
2 fennel bulbs, trimmed

1 large or 2 medium oranges,
cut into segments (see tips)
Olive oil for cooking
200g cooking chorizo, sliced
200g squid, prepared into rings,
tentacles and wings (see tips)
2 tsp chopped fresh chives
FOR THE ORANGE OIL (MAKES ABOUT 200ML)
Thinly pared zest 2 oranges (use

the oranges above)
150ml light rapeseed oil
50ml light olive oil
1 For the orange oil, whizz all
the ingredients in a blender for
2 minutes. Pour into a jug and
leave to infuse for 24 hours. Strain
the oil through 2 layers of muslin or
a clean J-cloth, discarding the pulp.
Keep chilled in a sealed jar and use
within 1 month (see introduction).
2 Finely slice the fennel (use a
mandoline if you have one), then
soak in iced water for 20 minutes
to firm it up and make it crisp.
Drain, pat dry and put in a serving
bowl or on a serving platter with
the orange segments.
3 Heat a frying pan over a high
heat and drizzle in a little olive oil.
When hot, add the chorizo and fry
for 2-3 minutes or until crisp, then
add the squid and fry for a further
minute. Season with salt and
pepper. Tip the chorizo and squid
FOR THE DIJON DRESSING
1 banana shallot, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, finely chopped
2 tsp dijon mustard
4 tsp white wine vinegar or cider
vinegar
150ml sunflower oil
PLUS MARINATING
Make the cauliflower

MAKE pure up to 24 hours
AHEAD
in advance, keep chilled
and covered, then warm through
before serving.
This recipe makes more
FOOD
TEAMS dressing than youll need.
TIPS
Keep leftovers chilled for up
to 2 weeks in a sealed jar.
Using gluten-free flour and
pilsner (if you cant find Sharps,
any pilsner is fine) gives a light
batter that crisps beautifully and
wont go soggy out of the fryer.
Find gluten-free flour in all major
supermarkets (we used Doves
Farm, widely available).
1 medium cauliflower
4 sustainable hake fillets, about
150g each, skinned and pin-boned
(ask your fishmonger to do this if
youre not confident)
2 tbsp chopped fresh coriander
leaves, plus a few whole sprigs
Finely grated zest 1 lime
tsp ground cumin
tsp cayenne pepper
200g gluten-free flour
(see tips)
220ml Sharps Cornish pilsner
beer (see tips)
Light rapeseed oil for cooking
60g unsalted butter
2 crisp British eating apples
1 For the dijon dressing, put the

shallot, garlic, mustard and vinegar
into a bowl. Whisk for 1 minute,
then trickle in the oil, whisking
continuously. Once all the oil has
been incorporated and the dressing
has emulsified (thickened), season
with salt and pepper and set aside.
2 Prepare the cauliflower by cutting
off and discarding the thick base,
then dividing it into florets. Thinly
slice a quarter of the florets
lengthways, then put them into
a bowl and reserve for the salad.
Roughly chop the remainder of
the florets for the pure.
3 Cut each hake fillet into 4 equalsize pieces. Mix the chopped
coriander, lime zest, cumin, cayenne
and a good pinch of salt in a bowl.
Add the hake and toss to coat. Leave
to marinate for 30 minutes in the
fridge (covered) or somewhere cool.
4 To make the batter, put the flour
in a mixing bowl and pour in the
beer, mixing constantly with a balloon
whisk until smooth. Season with
salt, then keep covered in the fridge.
5 Heat a lidded saucepan over
a medium heat and add a drizzle
of oil and the butter. Once the butter
has melted, add the roughly
chopped cauliflower and cook for
2 minutes, stirring, so it doesnt
colour. Add just enough water to
cover the cauliflower, bring to a
simmer, then put the lid on. Cook
for 10 minutes or until tender,
checking the water level
whats good now.
Squid, fennel
and chorizo
salad with
orange oil
Megrim sole with grape

dressing and roast garlic
& potato pure
TEAM
FAVOURITE
Rebecca
Woollard,
food editor
Im not the
biggest fan of
sardines or
pickled fish,
so I wasnt
expecting to like
this, but wowzers
I was wrong! Its
amazing. We
devoured it in the
test kitchen in
minutes. Just
make sure you
serve it with
bread for
mopping up all
the juices.
NEXT
MONTH
Celebrate the
first tender veg
of spring
OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 13 MIN
Make the potato pure up to

MAKE 24 hours in advance. Reheat
AHEAD
in a saucepan or microwave
add a splash of water if necessary.
4 megrim sole fillets (from 2 large
fish, 600-800g each fish)
FOR THE ROAST GARLIC & POTATO PURE
occasionally to make sure it

doesnt go dry. Drain the
cauliflower, put in a blender,
then whizz until smooth (or whizz
in the pan using a stick blender).
Put back in the pan if necessary,
then cover (see Make Ahead).
6 Peel, core and thinly slice the
apples. Add to the reserved thinly
sliced cauliflower, sprinkle in the
coriander sprigs, walnuts and
chopped chives, then toss together.
7 Heat the oil in a deep-fat fryer or
other suitable deep, heavy-based
pan to 180C when tested with a
digital thermometer. Dip each piece
of fish into the batter to coat, shaking
off any excess, then carefully lower
them into the hot oil and deep-fry
for 3-4 minutes until cooked and
crisp (you will need to do this in
batches). Carefully lift out the fish,
drain on kitchen paper, then season
all over with salt and pepper. Keep
the fish warm while you fry the rest.
8 To serve, reheat the cauliflower
pure, then spoon onto 4 warmed
plates. Dress the cauliflower and
apple salad with the mustard
dressing and place next to the
pure. Place 3-4 pieces of the
crispy hake per portion onto the
pure and serve immediately.
WINE EDITORS CHOICE
Dry vouvray from Frances Loire
Valley is perfect here with its hints
of crisp green apple and nuts.
800g medium potatoes, unpeeled

1 garlic bulb
100ml milk
125ml double cream
4 tsp chopped fresh flatleaf parsley
FOR THE GRAPE DRESSING

1 shallot, chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
100ml dry vermouth
20 mixed red and green grapes,
halved and de-seeded
2 tsp chopped fresh chervil or
tarragon
gas 6. For the pure, put the potatoes
in a roasting tin and cook for
30 minutes, then turn over and cook
for 20 minutes more. Put the garlic
bulb on a sheet of foil, then drizzle
with olive oil and sprinkle with salt.
Wrap the garlic in the foil and add it
to the tin in the oven. Cook for 20
minutes more (the potatoes cook for
70 minutes in total and should be soft
when pierced with a sharp knife).
2 Once cooked, halve the potatoes
and scoop out the flesh into a bowl.
Unwrap the roasted garlic bulb,
separate the cloves and squeeze out
the flesh into the bowl. Pass the
potato and garlic through a ricer (or
a sieve using a spoon to press it
through), and into a bowl. Heat the
milk and cream together, then slowly
stir it into the potato mix until it has
the consistency you like. Season
well, add the chopped parsley, cover
and keep warm (or see Make Ahead).

3 For the grape dressing, melt the
butter in a pan over a medium heat
until it foams, turns nut brown and
smells biscuity. Transfer to a bowl.
Put the pan back on a medium heat
and add a drizzle of oil. When the oil
is hot, add the chopped shallot and
garlic, then cook for 1 minute without
colouring. Add the vermouth and
reduce to about 2 tbsp, then add the
grapes and remove from the heat.
4 To cook the fish, heat an ovenproof,
non-stick frying pan over a medium
heat. When hot, drizzle in the oil, then
add the fish, skin-side down. Season
with salt and cook for 2 minutes until
the edges turn golden, then put the
pan into the oven for 3 minutes.
Meanwhile, add the brown butter to
the grape mixture and warm through
but dont let it boil. Remove the fish
from the oven and carefully flip it
over. It will finish cooking in the
residual heat as you plate up.
5 Spoon the roast garlic and potato
pure onto 4 warmed plates. Place
the fish, skin-side down, on the
plates. Add the chopped herbs to the
dressing, season to taste, then divide
among the plates. Serve immediately.
PER SERVING 834kcals, 49.1g fat (27g
WINE EDITORS CHOICE The crisp
citrus and rich depths of fine ch li
BE MORE ADVENTUROUS
ABOUT THE FISH YOU BUY
INSTEAD OF
BUY
COD OR
HADDOCK
COLEY, HAKE
OR POLLOCK
PLAICE
DAB OR
MEGRIM SOLE
SEA BASS
GREY MULLET
TUNA
MACKEREL
NATHAN SAYS: Theres no real

substitute for salmon but make
sure it comes from sustainable
sources, such as Loch Duart
(lochduart.com).
whats good now.
Soused sardines with

red cabbage and seaweed
salad cream
PLUS RESTING
Make the seaweed salad

MAKE cream up to 72 hours
AHEAD
ahead and keep in the
fridge. Use to dress salads or serve
with fish. Souse the sardines up to
24 hours ahead, cool completely and
chill. Bring them out of the fridge
45 minutes before serving.
Find nori sheets, and even
FOOD
TEAMS seaweed flakes, in the world
TIP
food aisle of supermarkets,
in good delis or on amazon.co.uk.
A few drizzles light rapeseed oil
4 large or 8 small sardines, scaled,
gutted, butterflied and pin-boned
(ask your fishmonger to do this)
1 red onion, finely sliced
red cabbage, cored and finely
shredded
200ml red wine vinegar
75g caster sugar
1 tbsp chopped fresh tarragon
FOR THE SEAWEED SALAD CREAM
CORNWALL PHOTOGRAPHS: LAUREN MCLEAN

2 tsp English mustard
2 tsp caster sugar
2 tbsp lemon juice
100ml rapeseed oil
150ml double cream
2 tsp mixed seaweed flakes
(or nori sheets whizzed to
flakes); see tips
until the sugar has dissolved, then

bring it to a simmer. Pour over the
fish/veg, cover with cling film directly
touching the veg to keep everything
submerged, then leave for 30 minutes
at room temperature. (If serving the
next day, leave to cool, then chill.)
3 For the salad cream, whisk the
egg yolks, mustard, sugar and
lemon juice for 1 minute in a mixing
bowl using a balloon whisk/electric
mixer. Trickle in the rapeseed oil,
whisking until its all incorporated.
Slowly whisk in the double cream,
season with salt to taste, then stir
in the seaweed. It should be the
consistency of thin mayonnaise.
4 Carefully lift the sardines from the
liquid and put onto plates. Drain and
discard the liquid from the veg.
Season to taste and divide the veg
equally among the plates. Serve the
salad cream on the side.
5g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE
Pickled oily fish isnt easy to match,
but the cold lemon tang of a dry vinho
verde from Portugal works nicely.
FROM TOP
Nathan is anchored in the

community; Outlaws Fish
Kitchen; the wild Port
Isaac coastline
1 To souse the sardines, heat a nonstick frying pan and add a drizzle of
rapeseed oil. When hot, add the fish
skin-side down and fry until golden
and cooked through (large fish
for 2-3 minutes, small ones for 1-2
minutes). Do this in 2 batches if
necessary dont overcrowd the
pan. Transfer the sardines, skinside up, to a glass or ceramic dish
large enough to hold them side by
side submerged in the sousing
liquid. Scatter the red onion and red
cabbage over the sardines.
2 Heat the red wine vinegar, sugar,
tarragon and 100ml water in a pan
STAR OF THE SEASON
SPRING ONIONS
The green shoots of spring

These crunchy stalks are the most delicately avoured of the allium
family. Theyre actually young onions, plucked before the bulbs have had
a chance to swell and develop a strong, pungent avour. Thinly sliced and
served raw, they add a touch of sharpness and crunch to Far Eastern dishes.
When quickly cooked over a erce heat until the edges blacken and wilt,
their intensity softens and they take on a kind of creamy texture, akin to a slow-cooked
leek. Theyre more versatile than you may think Choose rm, tightly layered onions,
trim the base and cut off any dulled green tops. Use the whole thing, from the mild
white root all the way up to the more punchy green stems.
ROSIE RAMSDEN, FOOD WRITER
RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING ROSIE RAMSDEN
PHOTOGRAPHS STUART WEST STYLING SARAH BIRKS
whats good now.
FIVE QUICK
FIXES
Very finely chop half a bunch

of spring onions, setting aside
a couple, and mix them into a garlicky
aoli. Cook 2 small chorizo sausages,
halved lengthways, in a griddle pan
until golden, then remove with a
slotted spoon. Griddle the reserved
onions in the chorizo-flavoured oil
until just blackened. Spread 2 bread
rolls with the aoli, then pile in the
chorizo and blackened spring onions.
Whisk together equal parts
fish sauce, lime juice and rice
vinegar, then add palm sugar to
taste. Mix in a generous ratio of
finely sliced spring onions, then use
to top Asian noodle and rice dishes.
Very finely shred spring onions
and cucumber, then dress with
a whisked mixture of lemon juice,
sesame seeds, tahini and olive oil.
Serve as a salad on its own or
alongside Middle Eastern dishes.
Arrange 2 layers of longstemmed spring onions in
a roasting tin, placing garlic cloves
and sage leaves in among the
stems. Top with a roasting joint to
fully cover the spring onions. Roast
until the joint is cooked and the
onions are juicy and soft.
Whizz lightly blanched spring
onions with fresh basil and
parsley, grated parmesan, pine
nuts, a few anchovies and olive oil
to make a pesto. Add lemon juice
and salt to taste.
4
5
Turn the page for two recipes that

put spring onions centre stage
Spring onion, herby

ricotta and nduja toasts
Nduja is a spreadable, spicy

KNOW- Calabrian sausage. Find it
HOW
in larger supermarkets or
Italian delis. If you cant get hold of
it, break up the insides of cooking
chorizo and fry with a little chilli.
Crumbled feta mixed with
FOOD
TEAMS yogurt would work instead
TIP
of ricotta and goats cheese.
125g ricotta (see tip)
50g soft goats cheese
Zest 1 lemon and juice , plus
extra zest to serve
25g each chopped fresh

basil and parsley leaves
10g fresh mint, finely shredded
1 fresh rosemary sprig, leaves
finely chopped
6 pitted black olives, chopped
4 large spring onions, trimmed
1 tbsp nduja mixed with 1 tsp
olive oil (see Know-how)
Extra-virgin olive oil for
drizzling
2 large slices ciabatta
1 In a bowl, combine the ricotta,
goats cheese, lemon zest and juice,
herbs and olives. Season to taste.
2 Slice the spring onions part way
through lengthways, then open up.
Rub with oil and season well. Heat

a griddle pan until smoking, then
fry the onions until lightly charred
(about 20 minutes). In a small
pan, fry the nduja, breaking it up
with a wooden spoon, until browned.
3 Toast the ciabatta, then drizzle
with oil and top with the herby
ricotta, nduja and onions. Sprinkle
with extra lemon zest to serve.
(11g saturated), 16.9g protein,
2.7g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE A dry, pale
Provence-style ros is great here.
Find ways to use up leftover soft
goats cheese in Loose Ends
whats good now.
Duck pancakes
with quick-pickled
spring onions
OVEN TIME 8 MIN
2 x 180g free-range duck breasts

4 large Chinese lettuce leaves
Hoisin sauce to serve
FOR THE QUICK-PICKLED SPRING ONIONS
75ml rice vinegar (or cider vinegar)

50g caster sugar
4 spring onions, finely shredded
cucumber, finely shredded
50g beansprouts
FOR THE PANCAKES
ingredients (except the sunflower

oil) in a mixing bowl, then season
with salt and pepper.
5 Heat a drizzle of sunflower oil in
a large frying pan over a medium
heat. Ladle in quarter of the batter
and fry for 1 minute on each side
until golden. Transfer to a plate.
Repeat with the remaining batter
to make 4 pancakes.
6 Slice the rested duck breasts. Lay
one large Chinese lettuce leaf in the
centre of each of the pancakes, then
top with the quick-pickled spring
onions and duck, pouring over any
resting juices. Serve with hoisin
sauce and the leftover pickle juice to
spoon over, then wrap up to eat.

WINE EDITORS CHOICE The sweet
hints from the sugar and hoisin
call for a juicy, off-dry, fruity red
such as Californian merlot.
NEXT
MONTH
Jersey royals
step into the
spotlight
160ml milk
80g rice flour
4 spring onions, very finely
chopped
tsp toasted sesame oil
Sunflower oil for frying
gas 4. For the quick-pickled spring
onions, put the vinegar and sugar
in a small pan over a low heat, then
stir to dissolve the sugar. Add
the shredded spring onions
and cucumber and the
beansprouts, then
take off the heat
and leave to cool.
2 Meanwhile, pat the
duck skin dry with
kitchen paper and
season well with salt
and pepper. Put a
dry frying pan over a
high heat and, when
hot, fry the duck
breast, skin-side
down, for 5 minutes or
until the skin crisps. Turn
and fry on the other side
for 30 seconds.
3 Transfer the duck breasts to
a baking tray, skin-side up, and
cover loosely with foil. Roast for
8 minutes for medium-rare
(11 if you prefer well done). Take
out of the oven and put the duck
on a board to rest.
4 For the pancakes, whisk all the
The forgotten joint

PHOTOGRAPH ALEX LUCK FOOD STYLING LOTTIE COVELL STYLING DAVINA PERKINS
Rump is an underrated cut for roasting. Not only is it relatively

inexpensive, its also a great choice if you like your beef with a bit
of substance. The rich avour needs something to cut through
it, though, and my answer to that is a sharp salsa verde. The use
of raw garlic in this vivid green sauce puts off some people, so here
Ive lightly cooked it in oil rst to take the sting out of its tail. If you prefer that
ery, powerful garlicky hit, you can leave it raw.
MONIQUE LANE, FOOD WRITER
Beef rump with salsa

verde and sherry-roast
root vegetables
4 anchovy fillets, roughly chopped

1 tsp capers, rinsed, drained and
roughly chopped

OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 20 MIN
YOULL ALSO NEED

Grass-fed beef has
KNOW- a deeper flavour than
HOW
grain-fed. Its also a more
natural diet for the animal,
so its a better choice ethically.
2.3kg British grass-fed beef
rump at room temperature
(see Know-how)
Olive oil to rub
FOR THE VEGETABLES
800g carrots, chopped into chunks

800g red-skinned potatoes, such
as rooster, chopped into chunks
120g beef dripping
8 banana shallots, halved
lengthways
A few fresh rosemary sprigs
Generous splash amontillado or
oloroso sherry
FOR THE SALSA VERDE
NEXT
MONTH
Roast chicken
with warming
Pakistani spices
60ml extra-virgin olive oil

3 garlic cloves, sliced
Small bunch fresh flatleaf
parsley, leaves chopped
Finely grated zest 1 lemon, plus
extra (optional)
1 tbsp sherry vinegar, plus an
extra splash
1 Rub the meat all over with olive oil

and season with salt and pepper.
Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/
gas 7. Heat a large frying pan over
a high heat. When very hot, add the
meat and sear for 3-5 minutes on all
sides until browned and caramelised.
2 Meanwhile, boil the carrots and
potatoes together in a large pan of
salted boiling water for 10-15
minutes until just tender. Drain in
a colander to steam dry, then shake
around in the colander to rough up
the edges. Put the beef dripping in
a large roasting tin, then put in the
bottom of the oven to heat up.
3 When the dripping is hot, remove
the tin from the oven and carefully
add the carrots, potatoes, shallots
and rosemary. Season with salt and
pepper, then return to the oven.
4 At the same time, put the beef in
another large roasting tin and put
in the oven above the vegetables.
Roast everything together for
20 minutes, then lower the heat to
170C/150C fan/gas 3 and roast
for another 50-60 minutes.
5 Meanwhile, for the salsa verde,
gently heat the olive oil in a small,
heavy-based pan over a lowmedium heat. Gently cook the garlic

for 4-5 minutes until starting to
soften but not coloured, then set
aside to cool (or see Moniques
introduction to the recipe).
6 When the beef has been in the
oven for 50 minutes, check the
internal temperature has reached
57C (for medium-rare) using a
digital probe thermometer. If not,
or if you prefer your meat more well
done, return it to the oven for
another 10 minutes, then test again.
When ready, remove the beef and
leave to rest on a lipped board (to
retain the juices), loosely covered
in foil, for 15 minutes.
7 At the same time, test the
vegetables: they should be crisp
on the outside and soft inside when
pierced with the tip of a sharp knife.
Leave the vegetables in the turnedoff oven to keep warm.
8 Meanwhile, pound the garlic to a
rough paste in a pestle and mortar
or whizz in a small food processor.
Add the rest of the salsa verde
ingredients and pound/whizz until
the mixture forms a rough paste.
Taste and adjust the seasoning: you
may want to add more lemon zest
or sherry vinegar to taste.
9 Once the beef has rested, stir the
resting juices through the salsa
verde. Pour a small splash of sherry
over the veg, then stir and season
again. Slice the beef, then serve
with the salsa verde and vegetables.
27.3g fat (10.9g saturated),
53.1g protein, 22.6g carbs
WINE EDITORS CHOICE The sharp
salsa verde and sherry call for a red
with a fresh edge, such as Italys
cherryish dolcetto or barbera.
roast of the month.
TASTES LIKE HOME
For chef Vivek Singh, his dads rare excursions to the kitchen back in
India created a lasting inheritance: these savoury stuffed dough balls.
Just spare a thought for the daily efforts of his overlooked mother
I hold many culinary
memories dear to me, but this
rather basic, rustic meal is
one that was my dads
signature dish, and I think of
it as my inheritance recipe.
The dish, originally from the
eastern part of Uttar Pradesh
state in northern India, was
often cooked for us by Dad
when we were growing up. Its funny my
mother cooked three meals a day for the ve
of us in the family, 364 days a year, and we
hardly noticed them; whereas Dad cooked
one meal a year and it has stuck with me!
The littis (little dough balls) are lled with
a spicy relish. Its extremely versatile if you
like, you can even make the relish on its own
and serve it as an accompaniment to a simple
meal of steamed rice and vegetables.
I cherish the memories of making this dish
with Dad, participating in the different stages
of lling, baking, then nally shaking the dough
balls in a closed pot with ghee to give them
a shiny nish. I make the littis from time to
time with my own kids now, hoping to make
this something of a family tradition one that
reminds us all of childhood and home.
VIVEK SINGH WAS BORN IN INDIA AND LIVES IN LONDON. HES
EXECUTIVE CHEF AND CEO OF THE CINNAMON CLUB, CINNAMON
KITCHEN AND CINNAMON SOHO. THE CINNAMON CLUB (CINNAMON
CLUB.COM) CELEBRATES ITS 15TH ANNIVERSARY THIS MONTH
Litti chokha
SERVES 7-10 AS A SNACK. HANDS-ON TIME
45 MIN, OVEN TIME 15 MIN
The dough keeps well and

MAKE
AHEAD may be stored in an airtight
container for up to 3 days.
Although the dough will be
FOOD
TEAMS quite dry, it should hold
TIP
together. If necessary, add
a little extra oil or water in step 1
until the mixture just comes
together into a smooth dough.
FOR THE DOUGH
500g chapati flour (from larger

supermarkets and Asian grocers)
tsp salt
tbsp dried thyme
35ml vegetable oil
250ml water
FOR THE SATTU KA MASALA (FILLING)
150g gram flour (from larger

supermarkets and Asian grocers)
125ml mustard oil (from Asian
grocers; or you can use the oil
from the top of a fresh jar of hot
mango pickle, combined with
sunflower oil)
2 red onions, finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
4 green chillies, deseeded and
finely chopped
3cm piece fresh ginger,

finely chopped
1 tbsp dried thyme
1 tsp nigella seeds
3 tsp salt
1 tbsp sugar
3 tbsp roughly chopped
fresh coriander
4 tbsp raisins
TO SERVE
3 tbsp ghee, melted, for soaking

the littis (dough balls)
Lime wedges for squeezing
Mint raita and hot mango pickle
gas 6. To make the dough, mix all
the ingredients together in a large
mixing bowl until it forms a stiff
dough (see tip). Cover with cling film
and chill while you make the filling.
2 To make the filling, combine all
the ingredients in a large mixing
bowl until well incorporated.
3 Divide the dough into about 15 x
50g balls. Flatten each dough ball
slightly, then roll out to the thickness
of a 1 coin. Spoon a heaped
tablespoon of the filling onto each
flattened ball, then pull the dough
from the sides to the centre and
pinch to enclose the filling.
4 Lay the balls (littis) on a wire rack
in the centre of the oven and bake
for 15-18 minutes, turning once
halfway through. Some parts of the
dough may begin to blister and
crack, but thats fine. Remove the
littis from the oven and toss them
with ghee while theyre still warm.
Serve warm with lime wedges, mint
raita and hot mango pickle.
WINE EDITORS CHOICE Serve
these with a cold, refreshing
white such as a juicy, citrus-scented
Chilean sauvignon blanc or a dry
Australian riesling.
FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: STUART WEST. FOOD STYLING: ROSIE RAMSDEN. STYLING: SARAH BIRKS
Dad cooked
one meal a year
and Ive never
forgotten it
food memories.
DISH FIT FOR

A SINGH Back
in India, Vivek
(right) would
eagerly anticipate
his dads yearly
cooking effort
THE TREND INGREDIENT
POMEGRANATE
MOLASSES
The Middle Eastern kitchen offers a cornucopia of exotic ingredients and none is more
sensational than this sweet-sharp syrup. The deep colour and complex avour add a wonderful
intensity to sweet and savoury dishes. Use it in this luscious cake and youll be hooked
The best quality pomegranate molasses is

made with nothing other than pomegranate
juice from sour and semi-sweet varieties of
pomegranate, which is boiled to a dark, sticky,
sweet-sharp syrup. Less expensive versions
may be artificially thickened, with sweetening/
souring agents added. Its used widely in
Levantine cooking if youve been to Turkey
youve probably eaten it. Its used to cut
through rich, fatty dishes or to enhance
salads, cheese-based and vegetable dishes.
Its one of the delicious. teams desert island
ingredients, and were always dreaming up
new ways to include it in recipes.
AND HOW TO USE IT

Before you add it to anything, taste it to get the
full effect if youve never tried it before it
will knock your socks off. We love it paired
with herbs; sour cheese such as feta or fresh
goats cheese; nuts; grilled or barbecued
meat and fish; roast caramelised veg; rich or

fatty cuts such as chicken livers or thighs; and
griddled or fried halloumi. Marinate the meat/
fish/cheese in it and/or drizzle it over
whatever youre serving to taste. Use it in
salad dressings instead of balsamic vinegar.
Its also best friends with chilli. As with lots of
Levantine cooking, the other flavours need to
be bold too with pomegranate molasses, use
whole bunches of fresh herbs (not just a few
pinches) and lots of extra-virgin olive oil.
WHERE TO BUY
Find it in the world food or condiments aisle
of large supermarkets, in speciality food shops
or at souschef.co.uk, ottolenghi.co.uk or
thefoodmarket.com. We like Belazu or Al-Rabih
(from Sainsburys and Ottolenghi). The latter
has added sugar and citric acid, but we love its
flavour. If its good enough for Ottolenghi
HOW LONG DOES IT LAST?

Opened, it will keep for at least 3 months.
RECIPE ROSIE RAMSDEN

PHOTOGRAPHS MAJA SMEND
FOOD STYLING CHARLIE CLAPP
STYLING OLIVIA WARDLE
WORDS: REBECCA WOOLLARD
WHAT YOU NEED

TO KNOW ABOUT IT
in the know.
THE STAR RECIPE
Pomegranate cake
OVEN TIME 30 MIN, PLUS COOLING
If you only have a loosebottomed cake tin, line

it first with foil, then
with baking paper. You could
use a 20cm square tin, although
the cake may sink in the middle.
FOOD
TEAMS
TIP
150g unsalted butter, plus

extra to grease
50g dark brown muscovado
sugar
100g caster sugar

beaten
2 tbsp pomegranate
molasses, plus 75ml extra
150g plain flour
tsp bicarbonate of soda
tsp fine sea salt
50ml buttermilk
FOR THE TOPPING
100g mascarpone
15g icing sugar, sifted
tsp orange blossom water
Pomegranate seeds
1 Grease and line a 20cm cake
tin (without a loose bottom; see
tip). Heat the oven to 180C/

160C fan/gas 4. Melt the butter
and sugars in a saucepan, then
pour into a mixing bowl and
allow to cool. Beat in the eggs,
one by one, then stir in the
2 tbsp pomegranate molasses.
2 Sift the flour, bicarb and salt
into another large bowl, then
fold in the egg mixture until
combined. Stir in the buttermilk.
3 Spoon the batter into the tin,
then bake for 25-30 minutes
until a skewer pushed into the
cake comes out clean. Cool for
5 minutes in the tin, then invert
onto a cooling rack. Set a plate
underneath the rack. Poke holes

in the top of the cake using a
skewer, then pour over the 75ml
pomegranate molasses. Cool.
4 To make the topping, whisk the
mascarpone with the icing sugar
and orange blossom water.
Spread over the cake, then
scatter with pomegranate
seeds. The cake will keep for up
to 5 days in an airtight container.
17g fat (10.8g saturated),
2.3g protein, 36.6g carbs (24.2g
sugars), 0.3g salt, 1.1g fibre
See Loose Ends for more
pomegranate molasses ideas
Jos Pizarros
FOOD
FROM
THE
HEART
For the people from the Basque
Country of northern Spain, food
isnt just fuel, its a way of life.
Chef Jos Pizarros latest book
is a celebration of the regions
avours, tastes and textures.
When we say these recipes
are irresistible, we mean it
PHOTOGRAPHS LAURA EDWARDS
FOOD STYLING LIZZIE KAMENETZKY
STYLING POLLY WEBB-WILSON
Spinach and
goats cheese
croquetas
book of the month.
Spinach and goats

cheese croquetas
MAKES 25 CROQUETAS. HANDS-ON TIME
45 MIN, PLUS CHILLING
Many people tell me they

make a beeline to my restaurants
for the croquetas and tortillas.
This is one of the most popular
avour combinations for
croquetas in the Basque Country
theyre so creamy and moreish.
They freeze well, too.
At the end of step 5, put the
MAKE balls on a tray in the freezer,
AHEAD
not touching, until frozen,
then transfer to a freezer bag and
store for up to 3 months. Defrost
a little, then continue from step 6.
The filling can take a lot of
FOOD
TEAMS seasoning so taste as you
TIPS
season. We liked the
croquetas served with a squeeze of
lemon juice and more sea salt flakes.
500g baby leaf spinach
400ml full-cream whole milk
100ml strong fresh vegetable
stock
80g unsalted butter
125g plain flour
80g soft goats cheese, crumbled
Freshly grated nutmeg
2 large free-range eggs, beaten
125g dried breadcrumbs
Olive oil for deep-frying, plus
extra to coat your hands
take approximately 15 minutes.

3 Still on the heat, slowly add the
goats cheese to the mixture,
stirring constantly, then add the
chopped spinach and stir until well
combined. Season with salt, pepper
and a grating of nutmeg (see tips).
4 Spread the mixture over a shallow
tray, then cover with a sheet of cling
film, pressing it down so it touches
the surface. Let the mixture cool
a little, then chill in the fridge for
at least 2 hours.
5 With oiled hands, roll the mixture
into about 25 x 30g balls. If the
balls are a little soft, pop them on
a tray and freeze to firm up for
30 minutes (see Make Ahead).
6 Put the beaten egg and the
breadcrumbs into 2 separate bowls.
Dip the croquetas first into the
beaten egg, then into the
breadcrumbs until evenly coated.
7 Half fill a saucepan with olive oil,
then heat to 180C when tested with
a digital thermometer. Fry the
croquetas, in batches, for around
2 minutes or until golden. Drain on
kitchen paper and serve (see tips).
PER CROQUETA 111kcals, 7g fat
0.4g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE Modern
Spanish white wines are inspiring
choose a godello or albario from
the northwest for these croquetas.
YOULL ALSO NEED
Chicken stewed in
cider and apples
Im from
Extremadura,
a region that is
and always will
be close to my
heart, but I
love the Basque
Country. It has
a reputation
for culinary
innovation
and modern
techniques, but
its history, culture and traditions go back
a long way, and the celebration of these can
be seen every day on the streets of San
Sebastin and across the region. For people
from the Basque Country, food is the most
important thing. Its about sharing big plates
of food around the table, celebrating happy
occasions its a way of life.
These recipes have been inspired by
what Ive seen and learned in this wonderful
part of my country, the people Ive met and
the respect they have for food.
JOS PIZARRO
ABOUT JOS Modern Spanish cooking is a force to
be reckoned with in London and that reputation
has, in large part, been created by this inspiring
chef, cookbook author and restaurateur
through his three restaurants, Jos Tapas Bar,
Pizarro and Jos Pizarro Broadgate. These
recipes are from his third cookbook.
OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 10 MINUTES
1 Heat a large, deep frying pan over

a medium-high heat and add the
spinach with a tiny splash of water.
Cook for 3-4 minutes until completely
wilted, then run under cold water.
Once cold, squeeze out all the water.
Chop finely and set aside.
2 In a saucepan, heat the milk and
stock together. In another pan, melt
the butter over a medium heat, add
the flour and cook for 2-3 minutes
until nutty and golden brown. Start
adding the milk and stock very
slowly, stirring it in until you get a
really silky-smooth mix. This will
The Basque Country is feted

across Spain, and indeed the
world, for its culinary creativity.
It has more three-Michelin-star
restaurants than anywhere else
in the country and I understand
why there are so many local
products that inspire me when
I visit. My inspiration for this
dish, as with many of my recipes,
came from seeing the ingredients
(cider, apples, chicken)
together; then I just had to
create a plate of food

the oven and cook for 1 hour.

4 Meanwhile, heat a little oil and the
butter in a frying pan and fry the
granny smith apples, sprinkled with
the sugar, until caramelised. Add the
sultanas and toss in the juices. Add
to the casserole after the chicken
has been cooking for 30 minutes.
5 Remove the lid of the casserole
and turn up the oven to 220C/
200C fan/gas 7. Cook for 10
minutes more to brown the top of
the chicken, then serve.
(4.4g saturated), 44g protein,
1.6g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE Pour good
quality dry cider, or chill a bottle of
unoaked, young white rioja.
Tortilla de bacalao
SERVES UP TO 8. HANDS-ON TIME 25 MIN,
Salt cod
tortilla? S,
por favor!
Olive oil for browning and frying

1.8-2kg whole free-range chicken
1 eating apple, peeled, halved and
cored
2 onions, finely sliced
2 bay leaves
6 fresh sage leaves
1 small cinnamon stick
500ml dry cider
25g unsalted butter
3 granny smith apples, peeled,
cored and sliced into 8
1 tsp caster sugar
50g sultanas
BOOK
OFFER
These recipes are
from Basque:
Spanish Recipes
from San
Sebastin and
Beyond by Jos
Pizarro (25;
Hardie Grant). To
order a copy for
the special price of
20 including P&P,
please call 01256
302699 and quote
the code GS1.

gas 3. Heat a layer of oil in a large
casserole on the hob. Season the
chicken inside and out, then brown
all over. Set aside and put the halved
apple in the cavity.
2 Add the onion to the casserole and
fry for 10 minutes to soften. Return
the chicken to the casserole and add
the herbs and cinnamon.
3 Pour in the cider and bubble for a
few minutes, then add the stock and
bring to the boil. Cover, transfer to
SIMMERING TIME 50 MIN, PLUS 24 HOURS

SOAKING
I couldnt write a book on

Basque Country food and not
include a recipe for salt cod
tortilla. Its a must-have dish
when youre in a sidrera (cider
house). My interpretation is to
caramelise the onions to bring
more sweetness to the tortilla.
I dont cook the bacalao before
adding it, so it stays juicy.
Caramelise more onions than
you need as you can keep them
in the fridge for at least a week
they make a great addition to
any sandwich, or just on toast
with goats cheese. Heaven.
Cook the onions up to 7 days
MAKE
AHEAD ahead and keep covered
in the fridge.
The tortilla is very juicy, so
FOOD
TEAMS flip it over the sink, just in
TIPS
case (step 5). Salt cod varies
in quality and saltiness. To get the
best out of your fish, change the
water 2-3 times during soaking, then
give it a rinse before you flake it.
400g salt cod before soaking
find it at fishmongers or at
melburyandappleton.co.uk
125ml olive oil

3 large onions, finely sliced
Handful fresh thyme, leaves
stripped (about 2 tbsp leaves)
Handful fresh flatleaf parsley,
finely chopped
1 Soak the salt cod in cold water,
skin-side up in the fridge, for 24
hours, changing the water a couple
of times (see tips). Drain and rinse.
2 Heat the oil in a large pan and
gently fry the onions for 2 minutes.
Cover with a lid and cook over a low
heat for 25 minutes or until really
soft. Remove the lid, add the thyme
and cook for a further 20-25 minutes
until caramelised and sticky. Scoop
out with a slotted spoon, reserving
the oil, and leave to cool.
3 Remove the skin from the cod and
check for bones, pulling them out
with tweezers if you find any, then
flake/cut into medium-large pieces.
In a medium bowl, beat the eggs with
plenty of black pepper and gently
mix in the onion, cod and parsley.
4 In a large (23cm) non-stick frying
pan, heat 2-3 tbsp of the reserved
oil and pour in the egg mixture.
Swirl the pan over a high heat
until the mixture starts to set
around the edges, then reduce the
heat and cook for 4-5 minutes until
it just starts to set, so the bottom
and sides are golden but its still
quite loose in the middle.
5 Cover the pan with a flat lid, plate
or board, carefully turn out the
tortilla onto it (see tips), then put
the pan back on a low heat. Slide the
tortilla back into the pan, cookedside up, and use a spatula to tuck
the edges of the tortilla under to
give its characteristic curved look.
Cook for a couple of minutes more,
then turn onto a board and serve.
The tortilla should be lovely and
juicy when you cut into it.
16.6g fat (3g saturated), 39g protein,
1.6g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE Bring out
a bright, lively Spanish ros (rosado)
from the Navarra region.
book of the month.
Chicken stewed
in cider and
apples, p95
book of the month.
Caramelised pears with

hazelnut praline ice cream
SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR,
SIMMERING TIME 10-15 MIN, PLUS FREEZING
25g unsalted butter

25g caster sugar
4 ripe pears, peeled and cut into
wedges
1 vanilla pod, split, seeds scraped
50ml brandy
FOR THE HAZELNUT PRALINE ICE CREAM
80g shelled hazelnuts

250g caster sugar
600ml full-cream whole milk
500ml double cream
Introducing your
new favourite
fruit and ice
cream combo
NEXT
MONTH
Afternoon tea
recipes from
queen of cakes
Mary Berry
1 For the hazelnut praline ice

cream, toast the nuts in a dry pan
until golden, then tip onto a baking
sheet lined with baking paper.
2 Put 100g of the 250g sugar in a pan
with 1 tbsp water, then heat gently
to melt the sugar. Increase the heat
and bubble to a dark golden
caramel. Pour onto the nuts, then
leave to cool and harden. Put in
a freezer bag and bash into small
pieces with a wooden rolling pin.
3 Heat the milk in a heavy-based pan
to almost boiling. Beat the egg yolks
in a bowl with the remaining 150g
sugar until light and fluffy, then add
the hot milk, stirring until combined.
Tip into a clean pan and cook very
gently to make a thick custard.
Strain into a bowl and cool. Once
cold, stir in the cream and praline.
Churn in an ice-cream maker until
set. (To make by hand, pour into a
lidded container, freeze for 1 hour,
then whisk with an electric mixer.
Freeze, then repeat twice or until
smooth.) Store for up to 3 months.
4 For the pears, melt the butter and
sugar in a pan, then add the pears,
vanilla seeds and pod. Cook, turning,
for 10-15 minutes until tender and
caramelised. Pour in the brandy and
bubble until smooth. Serve with the
hazelnut praline ice cream.
drinks.
CHEERS!
Susy Atkins picks the best of the bunch, plus wines for Easter
GRAB A BARGAIN
The Exquisite Collection
Gavi 2014, Italy (5.49,
Aldi) A superior gavi at
a knockdown price, its dry
and elegant with a subtle
yellow pear flavour. Pair
with delicate white fish.
Silver Ghost Cabernet
Sauvignon 2014, Chile
(5.99, or 4.99 when you
mix and match 6 bottles,
until 25 April, Majestic)
Likeable, medium-bodied
red, loaded with fresh but

ripe cassis. Easy-going
with simple, flavourful
rag or sausages.
Tilimuqui Single
Vineyard Torronts 2014,
Argentina (7.99, down
to 6.39 until 15 March,
Waitrose) Young, modern
white, fresh and zingy with
a burst of grapefruit and
passion fruit. Makes a cool
aperitif on spring evenings.
FOOD MATCHING
Wines for
chocolate
FRIDAY SPECIAL
Terres de Moraines
Madiran 2012, South West
France (9, down to 7
until 7 March, Marks &
Spencer) Hurry to bag the
deal on this robust and
hearty but balanced red.
Packed with ripe damsons,
its one for beef braises.
Mont Gras Carmenre
Reserva Especial 2014,
Colchagua, Chile (8.99,
Waitrose) A star red with
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK
TREAT YOURSELF
Aster Finca el Otero
2010, Ribera del Duero,
Spain (sold as 6-bottle
case, 161.70 26.95 per
bottle from Armit
Wines; armitwines.co.uk)
Award-winning Spanish
red a top choice for
a lamb roast over the
holiday weekend. Finely
oaked, with gorgeous
liquoricey cassis fruit.
Saint Clair Estate
Selection Pinot Noir 2014,
Marlborough, New
Zealand (11.99, or 9.99
when you mix and match
6 bottles until 25 April,
Majestic) A premium,
smooth, cherry-scented
red. Fab with duck.
Gosset Grand Ros
Champagne NV, France
(from 55, independents
including hedonism.co.uk
and Selfridges) Delectable
fizz with a pretty blush,
perfect for an Easter toast.
spicy lamb curries or rich

tagines, with its soft clove
and cinnamon notes.
Roc Saint Vincent
Sauvignon Blanc 2014,
Bordeaux, France
(8, down to 6 until
15 March, Sainsburys)
Youthful white bordeaux
thats appealing, light and
lemony and only 11.5%.
Cracking with egg-based
dishes such as souffls.
he sweetness and
mouth-coating texture
of Easter chocolates can
make dry wines taste thin and
acidic, but there are blissful
marriages to be made with
luscious pudding wines and
their weighty, syrupy texture.
Golden dessert wines such
as sauternes and French
fortied muscat go well with
milk chocolate but, for the
darker stuff, go for a riper,
apricot-scented Australian
botrytis semillon. Dazzling
star buys here are Hermits
Hill Botrytis Semillon 2009,
Australia (8.50/37.5cl,
Marks & Spencer) and Finest
Dessert Semillon 2009,
Australia (6/37.5cl, Tesco).
Both are heavenly with

a chunk of dark chocolate.
More adventurously,
a tawny port, madeira and
even Caribbean rum have
the intensity and richness to
complement ne-quality
chocolate. Or pick a rare red
dessert wine from the South
of France, such as Seriously
Plummy Grande Rserve
Maury, France (10.99/37.5cl,
Waitrose). This sweet grenache
oozes plump, sun-kissed red

berries, plums and raisins.
Serve with chocolate cakes,
mousses or gateaux.
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THE SANE VIEW
Is it healthier to go
GLUTEN FREE?
Fifteen per cent of adults in the UK are now avoiding gluten or wheat, and sales of gluten-free
products are soaring. Many are ditching gluten because they believe its a healthy option,
but most are doing so without a medical diagnosis. So whats going on here? Is going
gluten-free actually good for you or is it a pointless fad? Sue Quinn talks to the experts
ot so long ago, glutenfree products were only

available on prescription
for people diagnosed
with coeliac disease. Now they
command their own section in the
free-from aisles of supermarkets.
A tidal wave of gluten-free food,
from bread and pasta to biscuits
and sweets, has caught millions of
consumers in its wash and not just
TRUE OR FALSE?
Gluten-free products are
healthier than standard
versions containing gluten
T TRUE T FALSE
Gluten-free products often

contain more fat, sugar and salt
T TRUE T FALSE
Its ne to eliminate gluten

from the diet without taking
medical advice
T TRUE T FALSE
Gluten-free products are

often more expensive than
standard ones
T TRUE T FALSE
Gluten sensitivity is likely to

be an intolerance to something
else for many people
T TRUE T FALSE
people with coeliac disease or

gluten sensitivity. Growing
numbers of shoppers are switching
to gluten-free products simply
because they believe theyre
healthier than standard versions.
But is this true?
Much of the food industry would
like us to think so, and its easy to
see why. Gluten-free versions often
cost more than the regular items.
According to consumer research
group Mintel, UK shoppers spent
184 million on gluten or wheatfree products in 2014 up 15 per
cent on the year before, and sales
are expected to increase to 275
million by 2019. Mintel says
15 per cent of households were
avoiding gluten and wheat, and
nearly half were doing so because
they believed avoiding gluten was
part of a healthy lifestyle.
UNRAVELLING THE SCIENCE

Gluten is the general name for
proteins found in wheat, rye, barley
and other grains. Its what gives
bread dough its elasticity and ability
to rise, and allows cakes to rise and
keep their shape. You expect to nd
gluten in bread and cakes, but wheat
as our or starch has become
a hidden ingredient in all kinds
of products: sauces, stock cubes,
processed meats and much more.
People with coeliac disease
about 1 per cent of the population

(most of whom have not yet been
diagnosed) have an autoimmune
condition and suffer damage to the
gut lining when they eat gluten. For
them, the consequences of eating
the wrong thing can be severe,
including osteoporosis, anaemia
and even bowel cancer if the
condition goes undiagnosed. Others
believe eating gluten causes
For someone
without coeliac
disease or gluten
sensitivity, cutting out
gluten has no health
benet at all
symptoms similar to irritable bowel
syndrome (IBS).
Although theres no denitive test
for gluten sensitivity, its a genuine
clinical problem, according to
Marianne Williams, a specialist
gastroenterology dietitian. But she
says that for many people, gluten
isnt the culprit; in many cases,
types of carbohydrate known by the
acronym Fodmaps (fermentable olio-,
di-, mono-saccharides and polyols)
are now thought to be responsible.
Fodmaps are found in pulses,
grains, dairy, fruit, vegetables and,
confusingly, some foods that
your health.
contain gluten, such as wheatbased pasta and bread. Research is

suggesting that a Fodmap problem
can be mistaken for a gluten
intolerance, as the gut symptoms
appear identical, Williams says.
This means many people who selfdiagnose a gluten-intolerance might
be giving up a wide range of foods
unnecessarily. Their symptoms
might be cured, for example, by
simply eliminating wheat rather
than gluten, or a different food
altogether, such as onions, honey,
apples or milk. Only trained
dietitians can test to identify
a Fodmap sensitivity.
IS GLUTEN UNHEALTHY?
The growing number of people
who believe they have a gluten
sensitivity is now snowballing
into a community that
believes gluten-free simply
means healthy. Celebrities and
popular wellness bloggers
have made gluten-free
fashionable, with claims
that the protein causes
myriad ills, from gut
ache to eczema.
But is gluten actually
unhealthy? For someone
without coeliac disease or
gluten sensitivity, cutting
out gluten from the diet is
an unnecessary change that has no
health benet at all except making
life harder, says Anna Daniels,
dietitian and spokeswoman for the
British Dietetic Association. Whats
more, she says, needlessly doing so
can leave your diet lacking in key
nutrients: The risk for someone
unnecessarily going gluten-free
is that they are cutting out these
widely available healthy foods,
and potentially eating less bre,
vitamins and minerals.
ILLUSTRATION: GETTY
NO WONDER SHOPS
ARE CASHING IN
The gluten-free market is now so
lucrative, even foods that dont
normally contain gluten are being
labelled naturally gluten-free. But
with only a tiny percentage of the
population actually beneting from

a gluten-free diet, why are so many
people buying these products?
The growth in gluten-free food
is not just due to (real or perceived)
allergies or intolerances. Some
dietitians believe gluten-frees
popularity is also linked to the trend
for low-carbohydrate weightloss
diets. Carb-heavy foods such as
bread and pasta contain gluten,
so giving it up can be a strategy
for trying to shift pounds. But
according to dietitians, eating
manufactured gluten-free products
can lead to weight gain, not weight
loss, as they often contain extra
sugar, fat and salt to compensate
for the loss of avour and texture.
Many gluten-free foods are high
in fat and sugar, and the [resulting]
diet can be lower in bre, thiamin,

riboavin, niacin, folate and iron,
says Marianne Williams.
SEEK MEDICAL ADVICE

Anyone suffering gut problems
such as bloating or pain should seek
medical advice rather than selfdiagnosing and cutting out gluten,
say the experts. A doctor or
dietitian can rule out IBS or more
serious bowel conditions where
the dietary recommendations might
be different, says Anna Daniels.
Marianne Williams agrees.
A gluten-free diet is not necessarily
a healthier diet, and shouldnt be
used as a general healthy option or
as a weightloss diet, she says. In
short dont equate gluten-free
with healthy.
NEXT
MONTH
Sue Quinn
considers fat is
it good or bad for
you? And does it
make you fat?
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COLOURING-iN
REVOLUTION
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GOOD-FOR-YOU
MIDWEEK MEALS
NEW
MIDWEEK
PROMISE
RECIPES: LOTTIE COVELL AND MONIQUE LANE. PHOTOGRAPHS: MIKE ENGLISH. FOOD STYLING: ROSIE RAMSDEN. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON
Your guarantee for every recipe

in this section: NO MORE THAN
10 ingredients
30 min hands-on time
650 calories per portion (but many
of the recipes have fewer)
10g sat fat per portion
PLUS
No unnecessary added sugar
Minimal washing up
HEALTHY RECIPES
to shake off winter
Flavourful, textural, colourful and packed with nutrients its no

exaggeration to say these dishes are full of the joys of spring
Turn the page

for the recipes
Thai prawn cakes

with dipping sauce
and rocket salad
To thaw frozen prawns

quickly, put them in a
bowl of freshly boiled
water for 5 minutes, drain,
rinse and use immediately.
FOOD
TEAMS
TIP
400g sustainable king prawns,

fresh or frozen (see tip)
Large bunch fresh
coriander
Zest and juice 2 limes
15g fresh ginger, grated
4 tbsp Thai fish sauce
4 spring onions, finely sliced
1 medium free-range egg,
lightly beaten
100g fresh breadcrumbs
3 tbsp sweet chilli sauce
Vegetable oil for frying
Rocket to serve (optional)
1 Put 300g of the prawns in a
food processor with half the
coriander, the lime zest, ginger,
1 tbsp of the fish sauce, most of
the spring onions, the beaten
egg and breadcrumbs. Season
well, then pulse until the mix
comes together. Chop the rest
of the prawns quite finely, then
stir into the mixture. Shape into
12 patties, put on a plate and
chill for 15 minutes.
2 Meanwhile, mix the remaining
3 tbsp fish sauce with the lime
juice and sweet chilli sauce,
then add the remaining sliced
spring onion. Heat 1cm oil in
a large frying pan, then fry the
prawn cakes for 3-4 minutes
on each side until golden and
cooked through.
3 Toss the remaining coriander
with half the dressing (and, if
you like, rocket). Serve the cakes
and the leaves with the
remaining dressing for dipping.
26.2g carbs (8.1g sugars), 5.1g
salt, 1.3g fibre
lighter eating.
UNDER 5 MEAL
Broccoli, chilli and

lemon spaghetti
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 25-30 MIN
300g spaghetti
250g purple sprouting
broccoli, halved lengthways
3 tbsp olive oil, plus a drizzle
1 onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, chopped
red chilli, deseeded and
finely chopped
Zest and juice -1 lemon
Large handful fresh flatleaf
parsley, roughly chopped
Handful almonds, toasted in
a dry frying pan, to serve
(optional)
1 Bring a large saucepan of
salted water to the boil. Add the
spaghetti and cook according

to the pack instructions. Add
the broccoli for the last 3
minutes of the cooking time.
Drain, then drizzle with olive oil
to stop the pasta sticking.
2 Meanwhile, heat the 3 tbsp oil
in a large non-stick frying pan,
then add the onion and cook for
6-8 minutes until starting to
soften. Add the garlic and chilli,
then cook for 3-4 minutes more.
3 Add the drained broccoli and
pasta to the onion mixture and
mix well. Season with salt and
pepper, adding lemon zest and
juice to taste. Stir in the
chopped parsley, then serve
immediately, scattered with the
toasted almonds if you like.
fat (2g saturated), 13.5g protein,
no salt, 8g fibre
V IS FOR VEGETARIAN
Spring green,
sweet potato and
chilli frittata
OVEN TIME 15 MIN
3 sweet potatoes, peeled

and sliced
Olive oil
1 onion, chopped
100g spring greens, finely
shredded
1 tsp chilli flakes
50ml skimmed milk
100g frozen peas, thawed
100g soft goats cheese
1 Heat the oven to 180C/
160C fan/gas 4. Bring a large
pan of salted water to the boil,
then add the sweet potatoes
and cook for 10 minutes or
until nearly tender. Drain.
2 Heat a 23cm ovenproof
frying pan over a medium
heat. Add a glug of oil, then

fry the onion for a few minutes
or until it starts to colour. Add
the spring greens and fry for
3-4 minutes until they start to
soften. Add the drained sweet
potato along with the chilli
and garlic, then lower the
heat and cook for 5 minutes.
3 In a bowl, whisk the eggs
with the milk until combined,
then season with salt and
pepper. Add the peas and
goats cheese, then mix again.
Pour the egg mixture over the
vegetables in the frying pan
and stir a little to combine.
Transfer to the oven and cook
for 15 minutes or until set.
Turn out the frittata, slice
into wedges and serve with
a bitter leaf salad tossed
in a lemony dressing.
PER SERVING 503kcals,
(14.5g sugars), 1.1g salt,
9.8g fibre
ONE-PAN WONDER
Chicken noodle
soup
20g butter
4 carrots, thinly sliced
2 celery sticks, finely
chopped
2 garlic cloves, crushed
10g grated fresh ginger
1.2 litres fresh chicken
stock
150g medium egg noodles
2 cooked skinless
free-range chicken
breasts, shredded
Juice 1 lemon
Fresh flatleaf parsley
leaves to garnish
(optional)
1 In a large, deep saucepan,

melt the butter over a
low-medium heat. Add the
leeks, carrots and celery,
then season with salt. Gently
fry for 10 minutes, stirring
regularly, until the veg has
coloured a little and softened
slightly. You may need to turn
down the heat a little if the
vegetables start to burn.
2 Add the garlic and ginger,
then cook for a minute before
pouring in the stock. Bring
the soup to a simmer and
gently bubble for 10 minutes
or until the vegetables are
nearly cooked.
3 Crumble the noodles into
the soup, then add the
shredded chicken and lemon
juice. Taste and season with
salt and pepper, then simmer
for 2-3 minutes more until
the noodles are tender.
Garnish with fresh flatleaf
parsley, if you like.
9.2g fat (4g saturated),
(11.1g sugars), 1.6g salt,
10.1g fibre
Griddled chicken,
avocado and
pumpernickel salad
3 tbsp olive oil

4 free-range chicken thighs,
skinless and boneless, sliced
100g pumpernickel bread
1 tbsp wholegrain mustard
Zest and juice 1 lemons
2 tsp clear honey
1 ripe avocado, finely sliced
cucumber, sliced
100g radishes, finely sliced
100g watercress
1 Rub a little oil (about tbsp)
over the chicken pieces, then
season with salt and pepper.
Heat a large griddle or frying
pan over a medium-high heat,
then fry the chicken pieces for
10 minutes, turning regularly
so they gain colour but dont
burn (you may need to do

this in batches).
2 When the chicken is cooked,
set aside in a large salad bowl,
brush a little oil over the
pumpernickel and put on the
griddle pan. Grill the bread for
5 minutes, turning once, until
toasted and crunchy. Take the
griddle pan off the heat, tear the
bread into small pieces and add
to the chicken in the bowl.
3 Mix the mustard with the
lemon zest and juice and the
honey, then slowly add the
rest of the oil (about 2 tbsp),
whisking until emulsified.
Season. Add the avocado,
cucumber, radishes and
watercress to the bowl, then
toss with the dressing. Season
to taste and serve straightaway.
lighter eating.
V IS FOR VEGETARIAN
Roasted
cauliower and
pesto pasta

50g raisins, soaked in boiling
water for 10 minutes
200g young leaf spinach
Zest and juice 1 lemon
50ml shop-bought fresh
vegetarian pesto
1 large cauliflower (or

2 small cauliflowers),
broken into florets
Olive oil
250g short pasta (we used
fusilli)
2 red onions, chopped

180C fan/gas 6. Toss the
cauliflower in a little olive oil,
then roast for 25 minutes or
until golden and tender.
Meanwhile, cook the pasta in
boiling salted water for 8-10
minutes according to the pack
instructions it should still

have some bite. Drain, drizzle
with olive oil and keep warm.
2 In a large frying pan, heat a
glug of oil over a medium heat.
Add the onions and garlic and
cook gently for 8 minutes or
until soft. Add the cooked pasta,
roasted cauliflower, drained
raisins, spinach, lemon zest and
juice, and pesto, then toss until
wilted. Season, then serve.
(2g saturated), 15.7g protein,
68.4g carbs (20g sugars),
FRIDAY NIGHT DINNER
Pork tenderloin
with roasted feta,
rosemary, sage and
olive oil potatoes
OVEN TIME 40 MIN
1kg maris piper potatoes, cut

into 2cm cubes
2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra
1 British free-range pork
tenderloin (around 420g)
150g feta, crumbled
A few fresh rosemary sprigs
Handful fresh sage
Zest and juice 1 lemon
260g spinach
1 tsp chilli flakes (optional)
180C fan/gas 6. Put the cubed
potatoes in a large roasting tray,
drizzle with the 2 tbsp oil, then
season with salt and pepper and
toss. Roast for 25 minutes.
2 Meanwhile, heat a large frying
pan over a high heat and add
a glug of olive oil. Season the
pork tenderloin, then add to the
pan and sear for 5-6 minutes
until evenly golden all over.
3 After 25 minutes, toss the
potatoes and nestle the pork in
among them. Crumble the feta
around the pork, then add the
herbs and lemon zest. Roast for
a further 15 minutes or until the
pork has cooked through. If you
have a digital thermometer the
meat should read 65-70C.
4 Wilt the spinach with a splash
of water in a large lidded pan
over a medium heat, then drain.
Toss the spinach with a good
squeeze of lemon juice, a little
olive oil and some salt and
pepper, then serve with the
pork and potatoes, sprinkled
with chilli flakes if using.
lighter eating.
V IS FOR VEGETARIAN
Roasted shallot
and parsnip
lentil salad
OVEN TIME 40 MIN
4 tbsp olive oil

3 shallots, finely sliced
250g parsnips, chopped
3 tbsp red wine vinegar
1 tbsp clear honey
Juice 1 lemons
2 x 400g tins green lentils,
rinsed thoroughly and
drained
100g rocket
parsley
20g parmesan (or vegetarian
alternative), shaved with
a vegetable peeler
180C fan/gas 6. Put 2 tbsp oil
in a large roasting tray and add
the shallots, parsnips, red wine
vinegar and honey. Season
generously with salt and
pepper, then roast for 40
minutes until golden and crisp.
2 Meanwhile, mix the remaining
2 tbsp oil with the lemon juice
and season with salt and
pepper. Stir the dressing into
the lentils along with the rocket
and parsley. Mix in the roasted
vegetables, season to taste,
then top with the parmesan
shavings to serve.
Pan-fried salmon
with sweet-andsour leeks
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME
30 MIN
3 tbsp olive oil

1 tbsp brown sugar
1 tbsp balsamic
vinegar
4 sustainably sourced
salmon fillets
200g kale
Juice 1 lemon
Steamed potatoes to serve
(optional)
1 Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a

medium frying pan over
a low-medium heat. Add the
leeks and cook, stirring, for
10-12 minutes until soft. Add
the sugar and vinegar and
cook for 5 minutes or until
sweet and sticky. Set aside.
2 Wipe the frying pan with
kitchen paper, then add
another 1 tbsp oil and heat
until almost smoking hot.
Add the salmon fillets and
cook for 4 minutes, skin-side
down. Turn and cook for
4 minutes more until golden
and just cooked through. Boil
a kettleful of water. Put the
kale in a colander, then pour
over the boiling water.

3 Put the salmon on a plate
and cover with foil to keep
warm. Add another 1 tbsp oil
to the frying pan and, over
a medium-high heat, stir-fry
the wilted kale for 2 minutes.
Add a good squeeze of lemon
juice, then season with salt
and pepper. Mix in the leeks
and taste it may need a little
more vinegar. Divide the leeks
and kale among plates and
top with the fish. Serve with
steamed potatoes if you like.
fat (4.2g saturated), 37.3g
protein, 11.7g carbs (10.7g
lighter eating.
Beef stroganoff

3 x 150g free-range British
rump steaks
6 shallots, thinly sliced
200g chestnut mushrooms,
quartered
2 tbsp wholegrain
mustard
100ml beef stock
Juice lemon, plus an extra

squeeze
80ml half-fat crme frache
Large handful fresh flatleaf
parsley, finely chopped
2 x 250g steamed rice (we
like Tilda basmati rice)
1 Set a frying pan over a high
heat and add a glug of oil. When
the oil is shimmering, add the
steaks and fry for 2 minutes on
each side. The meat should be
very rare as it will cook in the
sauce, too. Set the steaks aside.
2 Turn the heat under the pan

to low, then add the shallots
and fry for 5 minutes. Add
the mushrooms and fry for
10 minutes more or until the
mushrooms start to soften
and brown.
3 Stir in the mustard, stock
and lemon juice. Season with
salt and pepper, then simmer
for 5 minutes. Stir in the crme
frache and turn the heat down
dont let it boil. Heat the rice
according to the pack
instructions. Slice the
beef into strips, then stir it

into the sauce, along with any
resting juices and the parsley.
Serve with the rice and an extra
squeeze of lemon juice.
fat (4.9g saturated), 32.8g
protein, 41g carbs (2.1g
NEXT
MONTH
Energy-boost
meals to
keep you
feeling fuller
for longer
SHORTCUT INGREDIENTS ARE HIGHLIGHTED IN BLUE
SHORTCUT SUPPER
lighter eating.
HEALTHY MAKEOVER
RICE PUDDING
Properly creamy, sink-your-spoon-in rice pudding is
a wondrous thing. Weve gone heavy on the comfort
here, but eased up on the calorie and fat count
RECIPE LOTTIE COVELL PHOTOGRAPH MAJA SMEND
FOOD STYLING CHARLIE CLAPP STYLING OLIVIA WARDLE
Lighter vanilla
rice pudding
Rice pudding is notoriously

HOW WE calorific, but simple to make
DID IT
healthier. Weve swapped
the classic cream and full-fat milk
combination for semi-skimmed
milk, adding just enough Greek
yogurt at the end to give that
essential creamy texture.
TRADITIONAL
VERSION
MAKEOVER
VERSION
785 kcals
197 kcals
67g fat
(41.8g saturated)
2.3g fat
(1.3g saturated)
5.9g protein
7.2g protein
39.2g carbs
(23g sugars)
49g carbs
(14.7g sugars)
0.2g salt
0.2g salt
0.2g fibre
0.2g fibre
100g pudding rice

750ml semi-skimmed milk
2-3 tbsp clear honey
to taste
4 tbsp full-fat Greek yogurt
to serve
1 Put the pudding rice, milk and
vanilla paste in a large saucepan
and bring to a gentle simmer over a
very low heat, stirring so it doesnt
stick to the base of the pan.
2 Simmer for 50 minutes, stirring
occasionally at the beginning and
more often as the rice swells, until
its tender and the consistency is
creamy. Stir in 1 tbsp of the honey.
3 Divide among 4 bowls, top each
with a tablespoonful of yogurt and
a drizzle of honey to taste, then
swirl through and serve.
e
v
h
i
ta
T
V IS FOR VEGETARIAN
y
lit
co
llection
Sticky alliums
with lentils
and hazelnut
gremolata
meat-free inspiration.
Sticky alliums with

lentils and hazelnut
gremolata
SERVES 6 AS A LIGHT MAIN COURSE.
HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN, SIMMERING TIME
30 MIN, OVEN TIME 50 MIN
A zesty gremolata, more

commonly scattered over
Italian braises, lifts this
unpretentious dish based
on roast cauliower, lentils
and mellow balsamic shallots
into sophisticated, main course
territory. If your bottle of
balsamic vinegar is a good
quality version, you could
drizzle a little extra over
each plate at the end.
Make the cauliflower
MAKE mash up to 2 days in
AHEAD
advance. To serve,
reheat on the hob (adding
a splash of water) until piping hot.
Rather than
being relegated
to the sidelines,
vegetarian
food is now
celebrated for
its diversity
and myriad
benets, whether
for health or in
terms of cost to
the environment.
Thoughtful
eating by which
I mean healthy with a good dose of common
sense shouldnt be tricky, and I hope the
emphasis here on ebullient vegetables and
bold avours will inspire you. Theres an
interest in health and vitality threaded
through these dishes but its a measured
and realistic strand.
Above all, my intention is that youll cook
these recipes for yourself or your loved ones,
vegetarian or not, and they will bring joy.
ALICE HART, COOKBOOK AUTHOR AND VEG LOVER
PHOTOGRAPHS EMMA LEE

FOOD STYLING LIZZIE KAMENETZKY
STYLING TABITHA HAWKINS
200g french green or puy lentils

4-5 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil,
plus extra to drizzle
Squeeze lemon juice
400g banana shallots, halved
1 onion, quartered
4 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 large cauliflower, cut into
small florets
2 garlic cloves
FOR THE HAZELNUT GREMOLATA
3 garlic cloves, finely

chopped
parsley, finely chopped
Finely grated zest 2 lemons
75g shelled hazelnuts, toasted
in a dry frying pan, then coarsely
crushed
shallots and onion in a small

roasting tin, season and drizzle
with 2 tbsp of the olive oil. Cover
tightly with foil and roast for
40 minutes or until very soft.
Uncover, drizzle with the balsamic
vinegar and return to the oven for
5-10 minutes, stirring once or twice,
until caramelised and sticky.
3 Meanwhile toss the cauliflower
and whole garlic cloves with
2-3 tbsp olive oil, as needed, to coat.
Spread out in another roasting tin
and roast for 20-25 minutes until the
cauliflower is very tender and just
beginning to brown. Transfer the
cauliflower and garlic to a food
processor with an extra drizzle of
olive oil. Whizz until smoothish you
may need a splash or two of water
to get it smooth. (Alternatively,
mash the cauliflower and garlic
by hand with a potato masher.)
Season with salt and pepper.
4 To make the hazelnut gremolata,
combine all the ingredients
in a bowl, cover and set aside in
a cool place.
5 Serve a generous spoonful
of warm cauliflower mash
with a spoonful of lentils on top,
followed by the sticky alliums.
Scatter with gremolata, then
drizzle lightly with olive oil to finish.
31.8g carbs (12.6g sugars), no salt,
9.9g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE A white that
isnt too brightly fruity, such as
a nutty white rhne or southern
French marsanne, suits this.
Pumpkin and
sesame fritters
MAKES 16; SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME
1 HOUR
1 Put the lentils in a medium pan

and cover with plenty of cold water.
Bring to the boil, add a generous
pinch of salt, then turn the heat
down and leave to simmer gently
for 20-30 minutes until tender. Drain
and dress with a splash of olive oil
and lemon juice.
2 Meanwhile, heat the oven to
200C/180C fan/gas 6. Put the
The pumpkin you choose

here is the key to success. Best
bet: the grey-blue crown prince
variety for its dense, sweet and
rm esh. Butternut squash will
do, but the batter may need a
touch more our. Hold your
nerve though too much will
make a gluey fritter: better
Pumpkin and
sesame fritters, p115
instead to leave the fritters

alone when frying and to use
enough oil. A mild sesame and
yogurt sauce balances the
pumpkins sweetness.
3 tbsp sesame seeds, toasted

in a dry frying pan until golden
Peppery salad leaves and lemon
wedges to serve
FOR THE SESAME YOGURT SAUCE
Roast the pumpkin up to 24

MAKE hours ahead. Cool, chill and
AHEAD
mix in just before cooking.
Recipes from
The New
Vegetarian
by Alice Hart,
published
by Square
Peg on
17 March (25)
900g dense pumpkin (see recipe

introduction), plus 2 tbsp pumpkin
seeds see step 1
2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for frying
225ml vegetable stock
100g wholegrain couscous
1 tbsp wholemeal plain flour or
spelt flour
1 medium free-range egg, beaten
Small handful fresh basil leaves,
shredded
Finely grated zest 1 lemon, plus
lemon wedges to serve (optional)
Juice 1 lemon
1 garlic clove, crushed
2 tbsp light tahini
4 tbsp natural yogurt
90ml hot water
gas 6. If the pumpkin seeds are
plump and shiny, scoop them out
and set aside 2 tbsp (if theyre flat
and wizened, use bought pumpkin
seeds instead). Slice the flesh into
slim wedges, skin and all, and toss
with 2 tbsp oil in a roasting tin. Roast
for 35 minutes or until soft and
browned. Take out and leave to cool.
Reduce the oven temperature to a
warming setting (as low as it will go).

2 Meanwhile bring the stock to the
boil in a small pan. Put the couscous
in a heatproof bowl and pour the hot
stock over to cover. Cover with a
plate, set aside for 5 minutes, then
fluff up with a fork and leave to cool.
3 To make the sesame yogurt sauce,
combine all the ingredients in
a small bowl and season to taste.
4 If they were worth saving, rinse
the reserved pumpkin seeds,
removing any orange fibres clinging
to them, then put in a heatproof
bowl. Boil a kettle and pour enough
water over the seeds to cover. Let
them steep for 15 minutes, then
drain. (If using bought pumpkin
seeds, skip this step.)
5 Pare the now-soft skin from the
pumpkin with a small knife (discard)
and put the flesh in a mixing bowl.
Mash it lightly. Add the cooked
couscous, flour, egg, basil, lemon
zest and half the toasted sesame
seeds. Mix well and season to taste.
6 Set a large frying pan over a
medium heat. Add enough olive oil
to form a thin film over the surface.
Add the drained (or bought) pumpkin
seeds and cook for a few minutes,
stirring, until golden. Remove to
a plate. Make sure theres still a
covering of oil in the pan and heap in
spoonfuls of batter to make patties,
being sure not to crowd the pan.
Cook for 5-8 minutes on each side
until golden and crisp-edged,
reducing the heat a little if they
colour too fast. Remove to a plate
and keep warm in the oven. Repeat
to cook all the fritters; you should
have about 16, depending on size.
7 Serve the hot fritters with the fried
pumpkin seeds, the remaining
sesame seeds and peppery salad
leaves, offering the sauce alongside
and lemon wedges, if you like.
29.2g carbs (6g sugars), 0.4g salt,
6.8g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE A good
quality ginger beer or a simple,
young red Burgundy.
For more ways with wholegrain
couscous see Loose Ends
Thai green
sweetcorn soup
SIMMERING TIME 20 MIN
Considering its lively base,

loosely borrowed from a Thai
green curry paste, this is
a surprisingly soothing (vegan)
soup, thanks to the richness lent
by sweetcorn, coconut and
cashews. If you need to cut
corners here, use a couple of
spoons of a good quality bought
Thai green curry paste.
The soup will keep in the
MAKE fridge for up to 3 days
AHEAD
or in the freezer for up to
1 month. Reheat to serve.
100g cashew nuts, roughly
chopped
2 shallots, roughly chopped
1 large garlic clove, smashed
5cm fresh ginger, roughly
chopped
2 kaffir lime leaves, fresh or
frozen
2 lemongrass stalks, outer layers
removed, inner roughly chopped
1 green chilli, deseeded if you
prefer your food less spicy,
roughly chopped
Small bunch fresh coriander,
stalks and leaves separated
2 tbsp groundnut oil
250g frozen sweetcorn kernels
(or, when in season, the kernels
from 2 large corn cobs)
400ml tin coconut milk
400ml vegetable stock (refill
the emptied coconut can to
measure out)
1-2 squeezes lime juice or
to taste
Small handful fresh Thai basil or
coriander leaves to serve
Creamy
sweetcorn soup
gets a Thai twist
1 Put the chopped cashews in

a bowl, cover with water and set
aside to soften for 15 minutes.
Whizz the shallots, garlic, ginger,
kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass,
green chilli and coriander stalks
together in the bowl of a food
processor. Scrape the bowl down
adds welcome texture.

5 Taste and adjust the seasoning
as needed: a squeeze of lime juice
should perk up the flavours, so
add a little, then taste and see if
you want any more. Divide the
soup among warmed bowls and
scatter with Thai basil or coriander
leaves for extra fragrance.
3.3g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE The low
acidity and soft peachy/melon
flavour of a gewrztraminer work
well with this.
Cauliower and
barley cheese
SERVES 4 AS A MAIN OR 6-8 AS A SIDE.
HANDS-ON TIME 40 MIN, OVEN TIME
1 HOUR 15 MIN
Cauli cheese
in a
wholesome
new guise
NEXT
MONTH
Veggie dishes
that dont rely
on cheese
a couple of times between whizzes,

and process until the mixture is very
finely chopped.
2 Put the groundnut oil in a large
saucepan set over a low-medium
heat. Add the whizzed-up mixture
and fry gently for 10 minutes,
stirring often, until soft and fragrant
but not highly coloured.
3 Drain the cashews, add to
the pan and cook for a couple of
minutes. Tip in the sweetcorn and
cook for 5 minutes more, stirring
often. Pour in the coconut milk and
stock. Bring to the boil, then turn
the heat down and simmer gently
for 15-20 minutes. Stir in the
coriander leaves.
4 Blend in the pan until most of
the soup is smooth, using a stick
blender, or keep half a mugful
back and blend the rest in 2 batches
in a food processor or blender.
Either way, keeping a small
amount of the soup unblended
Whole, roast cauliowers

sit in a sharp sauce, singing
with cheddar and rich in crme
frache. Nubbly barley grains
(or spelt, if thats what you have)
are stirred through before the
nal bake, adding bolster and
texture. Diet food this most
certainly isnt, but then this
is a cookery book, not a diet
book, and sometimes a cold
day demands something proper.
A crisp salad of bitter leaves
or steamed greens both work
well alongside, if this is to be
a main course dish.
This is best eaten on the day
MAKE its cooked, but leftovers
AHEAD
reheated well in the
delicious. test kitchen and made
a great lunch for a couple of days.
Reheat in the oven at 180C/160C
fan/gas 4, covered with foil, until
heated through, then remove the foil
to re-crisp the top for 10 minutes.
100g pearl barley or spelt
4 small cauliflower heads,
trimmed (I used romanesco and
purple cauliflowers for dramatic
effect) or 2 large ones, halved
1 banana shallot, finely

chopped
3 tbsp dry white wine
250g vintage or extra mature
cheddar, grated
1 tsp dijon mustard
150g crme frache
Handful stale breadcrumbs
Small handful fresh flatleaf
parsley, chopped (optional)
1 Cover the barley or spelt in a pan
with plenty of water and add a pinch
of salt. Bring to the boil on the hob,
then simmer for 20-25 minutes until
just tender. Drain well and set aside.
gas 6. Cut a deep cross in the stalk
of each cauliflower and make sure
they sit flat. Toss them in a generous
amount of oil to coat and put in an
ovenproof dish (they should fit quite
snugly as the sauce needs to collect
around them later on). Cover loosely
with foil and roast for 40-45 minutes
until tender to the point of a knife.
3 To make the sauce, heat a splash
of oil in a heavy-based saucepan, add
the shallot and cook for 5 minutes
or so until translucent and softened.
Add the wine and bubble to reduce
to 1 tbsp. Turn down the heat to its
lowest setting and add the cheese,
mustard and crme frache. Stir
constantly until the cheese has
melted into a smooth sauce. Stir in
the barley/spelt and season to taste;
its a strong and sparky sauce so it
shouldnt need much salt, if any.
4 Spoon the sauce over and around
the cauliflowers, concentrating the
grains in the base of the dish where
they wont catch and burn. Toss
the breadcrumbs with a drizzle
of olive oil to moisten, then scatter
over the top. Return to the oven for
15-20 minutes until browned
and bubbling. Throw on the chopped
parsley before serving, if you like.
WINE EDITORS CHOICE A rich dish
calls for a rich wine, so make it
a ripe, buttery Australian semillonchardonnay.
leftovers.
LOOSE ENDS
Dont let this months special ingredients linger in your kitchen
make the most of them with these smart and easy ideas
MARINATED
FROM
GOATS CHEESE
SPRING ONION,
HERBY RICOTTA Put pieces of
AND NDUJA
TOASTS, P86
goats cheese
into a sterilised
glass jar, add a few peeled
cloves of garlic, fresh thyme
sprigs and whole peppercorns,
then pour over good quality
olive oil to cover. Marinate for
a week in the fridge. Use in
salads or on toast.
CHEESE CROUTONS
Tear up leftover day-old bread,
toss in olive oil and season.
Spread out on a baking sheet,
crumble over goats cheese,
then bake at 200C/180C fan/
gas 6 until golden. Use in soup.
LEEK AND GOATS
CHEESE PARCELS
Cook finely sliced leek and
onion until soft. Cool, put in
a bowl, beat in an egg yolk and
crumble in goats cheese,
lemon zest and chopped fresh
parsley. Cut 1 sheet of readymade, all-butter puff pastry into
triangles, top with the mixture,
brush the edges with beaten
egg, fold in half and seal. Brush
with beaten egg and bake at
180C/160C fan/gas 4 for
10-12 minutes until golden.
PUMPERNICKEL
BREAD
PUMPERNICKEL
FROM
STUFFING
GRIDDLED
CHICKEN,
AVOCADO AND Fry chopped
PUMPERNICKEL
onion, garlic,
SALAD, P108
celery, apple
and bacon until golden. Add
cubes of pumpernickel bread,
fresh parsley, a free-range egg
and season. Use as a stuffing
for roast chicken or rolled pork.
PUMPERNICKEL CHIPS
Slice the pumpernickel thinly,
then cut into triangles. Drizzle
with olive oil and season. Bake
at 200C/180C fan/gas 6 until
crisp. Cool and serve with dip.
POMEGRANATE
MOLASSES
LAMB
MARINADE
FROM
POMEGRANATE Combine
CAKE, P93
pomegranate
molasses,
crushed garlic, dried sumac
and olive oil in a bowl, then
season well. Add lamb chops
and rub in well. Marinate for
30 minutes, then grill.
POMEGRANATE HOUMOUS
Whizz a tin of drained chickpeas
with tahini, pomegranate
molasses, crushed garlic,
lemon juice and seasoning in a
food processor. Pour in a few
tbsp of olive oil in a thin stream
until smooth and creamy. Top
with fresh pomegranate seeds.
SPARKLING COCKTAIL
Pour 1 tsp pomegranate
molasses into a champagne
flute and top with prosecco
or cava. Or use sparkling water
to make it a mocktail.
WHOLEGRAIN
COUSCOUS
STUFFED
PEPPERS
Fry a chopped
onion, add
minced beef
and brown well. Stir in cooked
couscous and some crumbled
feta. Use to stuff halved red
peppers and bake at 180C/
160C fan/gas 4 for 20 minutes
or until the peppers are soft.
FROM
PUMPKIN
AND SESAME
FRITTERS,
P115
COUSCOUS SALAD
Combine cooked couscous,
raisins, chopped pistachios
(or any nuts you have handy),
fresh rocket leaves and
a handful of fresh parsley
leaves. Dress with lemon juice
and a good glug of olive oil,
then season well.
MADEIRA
BOOZY CREAM
Stir
leftover
FROM STUFFED
LEG OF PORK
madeira
into
WITH CONFIT
POTATOES, P62
crme frache or
whipped cream
and dollop onto your favourite
cake or pudding.
BREAD PUDDING
Beat together 4 free-range
eggs, 240ml double cream and
240ml whole milk with 120ml
madeira in a bowl. Arrange
slices of white bread cut into
triangles in an ovenproof dish,

pour over the egg mixture and
sprinkle over a couple of
spoonfuls of brown sugar. Dot
with butter and bake at 160C/
140C fan/gas 3 for 20-25
minutes until just wobbly in the
centre. Best served warm.
FRESH GINGER
LIVEN UP
A SMOOTHIE
Add a 1cm piece
of fresh, peeled
ginger to your
morning smoothie or juice for
an added kick.
SALAD DRESSING
Add a few fine slices of fresh
ginger to a bottle of white wine
vinegar, then seal. The ginger
will impart its flavour to the
vinegar, adding an interesting
twist to salad dressings.
FROM
WARMING
SWEET POTATO
AND
GINGER
SOUP, P52
WORDS: LOTTIE COVELL. PHOTOGRAPH: TOBY SCOTT. FOOD STYLING: MONIQUE LANE. STYLING: OLIVIA WARDLE
GOATS CHEESE
1 0 PA G E S O F K N OW - H OW T O G ET YO U C O O K I N G
S M A R T E R , FA ST E R A N D W I T H G R E AT E R C O N F I D E N C E
M E ET O U R
EXPERTS
Food editor
These crunchy, buttery

Breton pastries may
have foxed the
Great British Bake Off
contestants in 2014,
but our step-by-step
guide guarantees
success every time.
Get ready to be
crowned Star Baker
LOTTIE
COVELL
Deputy
food editor
ELLA TARN
Cookery
assistant
STEP BY STEP
SCOTCH EGGS p125
LUCAS
HOLLWEG
Chef, food writer
and delicious.
contributor
Everyone loves these

parcels of tender
sausagemeat encasing
just-runny boiled
eggs. Find out how
easy it is to make this
pub staple at home
XANTHE CLAY
Chef, writer,
preserves and
freezing expert
TECHNIQUE: HOW LONG TO

BLIND BAKE A PASTRY CASE? p126
Weve got all the essential
information you need on how to
bake perfect tart cases now you
can do it with your eyes shut
M A RCH 2016
REBECCA
WOOLLARD
THE CHALLENGE:
KOUIGN AMANN p128
BE A BE T TER COOK
BE A BE T TER COOK
THIS MONTH IN OUR TEST KITCHEN...

As the delicious. food team cook and test recipes, theres constant tinkering and fervent discussion:
timesaving ideas; new tricks weve heard of; some technique weve dreamed up and want to try
Then there are the questions and input we get from colleagues as they come to see whats cooking.
On these pages, our aim (with help from our regular experts) is to reproduce that test kitchen
atmosphere, sharing the most useful ideas and tips weve discovered. Its cookery gold!
IS IT OK TO...
SERVE PORK
MEDIUM-RARE?
RECIPE MATHS EVERY COOK NEEDS TO KNOW
MAKING PASTA
Per person: 1 large egg + 100g pasta our + pinch salt

There are many ways to make egg pasta,
but this is the simplest: whizz the pasta
flour (tipo 00) in a food processor with
the salt and eggs until the mixture comes
together in clumps of moist crumbs.
Tip out onto a floured work surface,
press into a ball using your hands, then
knead for about 10 minutes until smooth
and silky (if its dry, add 1 tsp olive oil;

if its too sticky, add a bit more flour).
Wrap in cling film, then chill for
30 minutes. Roll out and pass through
a pasta machine until its the correct
thickness. Cut into the required shape
on a work surface dusted with fine
semolina to prevent sticking.
Most people believe theres only one

way to cook pork: well done. The
argument for doing this was to kill
the trichinella parasite which can
cause disease. But the parasite is
now rare in modern farming.
Indeed, its so rare that, in the
US, official advice for cooking pork
is that it only has to reach 62C for
3 minutes. However, the UKs Food
Standards Agency tells us to cook
pork until steaming hot (possibly
even as high as 71C its not
clear) and until no longer pink.
Trichinellosis is no longer the
reason. Now, the worry is hepatitis
E, a virus that can be carried by
pigs and passed on to humans.
What to do? We advise buying
your meat from a reputable butcher
and cooking rolled joints, sausages,
burgers and other processed pork
products until 70C or slightly over.
However, whole pork cuts or joints
can be seared or browned on the
outside (which will kill any bacteria
and add flavour), then cooked to
your liking inside we suggest
medium at 65C.
How to roll a swiss roll

MAKE THE BOUNTY LAST
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES
WORDS: THE FOOD TEAM AND LUCAS HOLLWEG. ADDITIONAL WORDS: XANTHE CLAY.
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK, GETTY, NASSIMA ROTHACKER, TOBY SCOTT, LAURA EDWARDS, STUART WEST
FREEZE They dont freeze well whole, so peel, then

gently simmer 1kg jerusalem artichokes until
tender. Drain, then whizz in a food processor with
2 tbsp butter or olive oil into a pure. Cool, then
freeze in bags for up to 3 months. Use in veg soups
or mix with mashed potato to serve with roast beef.
PRESERVE You can make a vinegar-based pickle with
jerusalem artichokes, or ferment them sauerkrautstyle this reduces their windiness. Grate/spiralise
(ribbons rather than spaghetti) 500g jerusalem
artichokes. Mix with 1 tbsp sea salt and 1 tsp
ground turmeric, then pack tightly into a sterilised
1 litre glass jar. Add cold water to cover, keeping
them submerged with pebbles (sterilised first in
boiling water). Fix a tea towel over the top with a
rubber band and leave. Taste after 5 days to see if
its sour enough if not, leave a little longer. When
ready, pop a lid on and chill. Use within a month.
True or false?
THE CLAIM COOKING GREEN

VEGETABLES IN SALTED WATER
ADDS FLAVOUR AND KEEPS
THEIR COLOUR VIBRANT
FALSE
Green veg, such as beans or cabbage, dont absorb
the water theyre cooked in, so any added salt or,
at least, most of it will be drained away. Nor does
salt in the water help fix the chlorophyll that
gives the veg its greenness. In fact it can do the
opposite as sea salt can contain elements
that harden the water (see
(
below).
Greens can lose theirr colour as they
cook because of acidic water, hard
water (with a high calcium content) or
because theyve been o
overcooked.
Cook green vegetable
es in plenty
of near-boiling unsalte
ed water
until they still have som
me bite
to them.
Turn out the warm,

cooked sponge onto
baking paper dusted
with cocoa powder or
icing sugar, then peel
off the top layer of
baking paper and
leave it to cool.
Spread the filling
over the sponge,
leaving a border.
T E S T K I T CHEN
These knobbly tubers have a wonderful nutty flavour,

so even though the fartichoke nickname may be
justified, theyre worth it! Anyway, slow-cooking or
fermenting helps make them less anti-social
BE A BE T TER COOK
TECHNIQU E
Start at either the

short or long edge
and, using the baking
paper to lift the edge
of the sponge, make
a short fold over the
filling. Keep some
tension in the paper
to support the roll
along its length and
use your fingers at
the ends to help

make the first crease.
Lift the baking paper
up and forward to roll
the sponge, using the
paper to press gently
down on it and keep
the roll tight.
Sit the rolled cake
on its seam, then
remove the paper.
KOUIGN AMANNS: THE MAKEOVER

W know its unlikely, but if you have any
neaten kouign amanns (see p128), its
g
good to know they can be revived, even
a
after 1-2 days. Make a hole in the centre
with the end of a wooden spoon. Stuff with
marzipan, scatter with flaked almonds, then
bake a
at 180C/160C fan/gas 4 for 10 minutes.
etter than an almond croissant

Way be
THE KKNOWLEDGE
ROASTING KNOW-HOW
do you start off
Q Why
meat in a hot oven, then
turn down the temperature?

Its back on the good-for-you list but which kind to go for?
SALTED VS UNSALTED BUTTER
Salted butter is great on toast, but the unsalted stuff is better for
cakes, pastries and butter sauces, such as hollandaise, where
you want the pure flavour and you can control the salt content.
Its also better for shallow-frying, as it doesnt burn so easily.
Salt gives butter a longer shelf life but the quantities added
vary widely. In Britain, lightly salted butter is around 1.2% salt
and salted is upwards of 1.7%. French demi-sel (lightly salted)
butter can be 0.5-3% salt, while beurre sal (salted) is over 3%.
The high heat crisps up the

exterior and browns it due to
the Maillard effect and other
reactions that add flavour.
However, if the interior reached
this temperature the meat
would dry out. Lowering the
temperature cooks the meat
more evenly throughout.
FAT CONTENT
British butter (and French salted butter) has a minimum fat

content of 80%. French unsalted butter has to be at least 82%.
The extra fat means the butter has a lower water content as well
as greater plasticity (according to pastry chefs). This means its
good for laminated pastries (with separated layers), such as puff
pastry, which have to survive repeated rolling and folding.
STYLES OF BUTTER
FRESH (OR SWEET) CREAM BUTTER Butter churned from fresh

(usually pasteurised) cream. Most British butter is made this way.
The source of the milk makes a big difference to the flavour. Butter
from certain breeds and grass-fed herds has a distinctive taste.
CULTURED BUTTER Thanks to its lactic cultures, this butter has

a fuller, slightly tangy flavour and a slight acidity that tenderises
pastry dough. Its usually made by adding cultures before or after
churning the butter. Most French and Italian butters are cultured.
RAW MILK BUTTER This is made from raw (unpasteurised) milk,
which has complex flavours that are often lost in pasteurisation.
Names to look out for: Fen Farm Dairy in Suffolk (fenfarmdairy.
co.uk) and Hook and Son in East Sussex (hookandson.co.uk).
WHEY BUTTER This is a by-product of cheesemaking and it tastes

nutty and sweet the cream comes from whey rather than milk.
Buy it from nealsyarddairy.co.uk and quickes.co.uk. For raw whey
butter try lincolnshirepoachercheese.co.uk or kappacasein.com.
FARMHOUSE BUTTER This term usually refers to butter made
on a farm using the farms cream, or butter traditionally churned
in small batches only using milk from local farms, such as
Netherend (netherendfarmbutter.co.uk). Its not a legal definition.
CLARIFIED BUTTER Made by melting butter so the milk solids

separate from the fat. The fat is strained off and the solids are
discarded. Clarified butter keeps much longer than unclarified
and has a higher smoke point, so doesnt burn as easily in frying.
GHEE Indian-style clarified butter. Ghee is simmered until the

milk solids turn brown, then strained, giving a rich, nutty
flavour. Its used in all kinds of south
Asian cooking and can also be used in
place of clarified butter. Available
from larger supermarkets and
Asian grocers.
TIPS THE delicious. TEAM

LEARNED ON A DAY AT THE
RAYMOND BLANC COOKERY SCHOOL
By Mark Peregrine, head tutor
ON SHORTCRUST PASTRY
For easy handling and a less messy
kitchen: roll it out between 2 sheets of
cling film. Peel off and discard the top
sheet, then carefully flip the pastry
over your tart tin and use the cling film
(which will now be uppermost) to help
ease the pastry into the edges but
be gentle and dont stretch it.
Once youve rolled the pastry between the 2 sheets of cling film,
you can roll it up loosely, then freeze it for your own homemade
ready-rolled pastry. Thaw in the fridge before unrolling and using.
At Le Manoir, we use open rings, without bases, for tarts, and
cook them on baking paper on a baking sheet. It helps prevent
a soggy bottom because, as the cooked tart case cools on the wire
rack, the open base lets steam escape, so it doesnt soften the
pastry. You can buy 20cm tart rings at nisbets.co.uk.
If youre making sweet pastry, use icing sugar rather than caster
sugar as it dissolves more easily to give crisper pastry.
ON SELF-RAISING FLOUR
Dont bother buying it. Sift in 15g baking powder per 1kg plain flour.
ON CREAM
We use whipping cream (38 per cent fat). Its full flavoured, wont
split when heated and has 10 per cent less fat than double cream.
ON CHOCOLATE
When melting chocolate, make sure whatever youre adding to it is

the same temperature not cold. Even 1 tsp cold water or booze
added to warm, melted chocolate will make it seize.
ON TASTING
Your taste buds work best at 43C a temperature at which most

of us would send our food back saying its not hot enough. When
tasting at the hob, let the food cool a little before you season it.
belmond.com/le-manoir-aux-quat-saisons-oxfordshire
BE A BE T TER COOK
TECHNIQU E
How to make scotch eggs
Mix 500g good-quality sausagemeat

with 1 tsp ground allspice and the
leaves of 4-5 fresh thyme sprigs in a
medium bowl until well combined. Cover
with cling film, then chill for 30 minutes.
Put 6 medium free-range eggs (at
room temperature) in a large pan of
boiling water and cook for 6 minutes
exactly. Drain, cool under running water,
then shell. Divide the chilled meat into
6 equal portions, roll each into a ball with
DO I REALLY NEED TO
PEEL MUSHROOMS?
No. Commercial mushrooms need only a
quick wipe with damp kitchen paper if that.
Wild mushrooms, though, need brushing
to get rid of any soil, vegetation and small
creatures. You can get special brushes or
use a small, clean, fairly stiff paintbrush.
floured hands, then flatten into a disc.

Put a disc of meat in your palm, then
put an egg on top. Cup the meat
around the egg, then use your other hand
to enclose the egg completely. Set aside.
Repeat with the eggs and meat.
Put 100g plain flour, 3 lightly
beaten free-range eggs and 250g
dried breadcrumbs in 3 separate
shallow bowls. Roll a scotch egg in the
flour. Dip it next into the egg, then into
T E S T K I T CHEN
the breadcrumbs, shaking to remove the

excess at each step. Roll lightly in your
hands to press in the breadcrumbs. Set
aside, then repeat with the other eggs.
Fill a deep pan three-quarters full
with sunflower oil, then heat to 170C
(we recommend you use a digital probe
thermometer). Deep-fry the eggs in pairs
for 7-8 minutes until deep golden.
Serve while still warm the yolk
should be firm but still runny.
CHARLIES PERFECT CHEESE MATCH

Montgomery cheddar & garlic roasted in chilli oil
Montys is a classic, robust cheddar. Slice off the
top of a garlic bulb, put it on a square of foil, drizzle
with spicy chilli oil, then bake for 25 minutes in a hot oven. Squeeze
the warm cloves from their papery casings onto crusty bread
and serve with the cheese. The sweet, earthy spiciness of the
garlic balances the deep, tangy, savoury taste of the cheddar.
Charlie Turnbull owns Turnbulls deli in Dorset (turnbulls-deli.co.uk)
BE A BE T TER COOK
RECIPE RESCUE
SUNKEN CAKE
THE BEST WAY TO

WHISK IN SUGAR
Most simple meringue recipes tell you to
whisk egg whites to soft or stiff peaks,
then gradually whisk in the sugar until glossy
and thick. Received wisdom is that adding
sugar at the beginning would reduce the
capacity of egg whites to form a foam. But
is this still the case in the age of powerful
electric mixers? Plus, some chefs advocate
whisking the sugar and whites together
from the beginning or whisking in heated
sugar. We put three methods to the test to
find out which works best
TRADITIONAL METHOD Sugar was slowly
incorporated into whisked egg whites and
quickly formed a thick, glossy mixture.
Baked for 25 minutes, the meringue was
gooey and sticky with a crisp, robust shell.
ALL-IN-ONE METHOD Egg whites and sugar
went into the mixer together right at the start,
then were whisked. This gave a softer
mixture that needed 30 minutes in the oven:
the meringue was light, broke easily and
dissolved quickly on the tongue.
HEATED SUGAR METHOD Sugar was
put onto a clean baking tray, warmed for
5 minutes in the oven, then slowly added
to whisked egg whites. This method formed
a soft whip that needed 50 minutes in the
oven. The meringue was sturdy, chewy and
caramelly our favourite.
2 TEMPERATURE FLUCTUATION
Opening the oven door too early

lowers the temperature before
the sponge has set in the middle.
3 TOO MUCH BAKING POWDER More is
not always better if the cake rises
more than its structure can
support, it will collapse as it cools.
REMEMBER A flourless cake is

basically a souffl mix of whisked
egg. When heated the trapped air
expands so the cake rises. But egg
alone doesnt set firm, so the cake,
like a souffl, slumps once out of
the oven. It tastes good, though.
HOW LONG DOES IT REALLY TAKE...
TO BLIND BAKE
A PASTRY CASE?
It depends on the kind of pastry and its
thickness but large shortcrust tart cases
take 25-30 minutes in total at 180C/160C/
gas 6. Bake for 15-20 minutes lined with
baking paper and filled with baking beans
to firm the pastry into a case. Then cook it
without the baking paper/beans for 10 minutes more to give it a bit of colour
and taste. Cooking the tart on a preheated baking sheet helps crisp up the
base. Check towards the end to make sure it isnt browning too much.
If youre going to fill it with a custard mixture to be baked afterwards
(such as for lemon tart), the case needs to be well cooked and crisp before
you add the filling or it will turn soggy.
If your filling is very runny, you might want to seal the pastry once
its been blind baked by brushing it liberally with beaten egg yolk, then
baking the case for 1-2 minutes more.
NEW VIDEOS ONLINE NOW See delicious. expertise in action!

Want to improve your skills in the kitchen? Visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk
and nd a collection of new videos to guide you through your cooking.
Discover how to: cook the perfect steak make meringues ice cakes
make pastry cook a perfect chicken and lots more
MERINGUE WORDS: VICTORIA BUSHNELL
T E S T K I T CHEN
MASTERING MERINGUES
When a cake batter is heated,

bubbles in the mix expand or
are created, so it rises. During
cooking, the egg/flour proteins
around the bubbles firm up,
creating a sponge. But why do
cakes sometimes sink afterwards?
1 UNDERBAKING The proteins have
not set properly the cake needs
longer in the oven or to be cooked
at a higher temperature.
just for you.
WORTH
945
WIN a two-day
River Cottage cookery course

*THIS COURSE IS NOT SUITABLE FOR PEOPLE WITH FOOD
ALLERGIES OR SPECIFIC DIETARY REQUIREMENTS
Hone your kitchen skills in an idyllic setting and take home the goodies
f you want the chance to brush up on your

breadmaking skills or have a hack at butchery, this
competition might get you very excited. To celebrate
River Cottages 10-year anniversary in its Devon HQ,
home to Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstalls famous and
much-filmed farmhouse, weve teamed up with the
River Cottage Cookery School to offer you the chance
to perfect a wide range of kitchen skills.
The winner and a guest will take part in the Two
Days at River Cottage course, covering the basics of
breadmaking; meat, vegetable and fish cookery; and
creating great desserts. Against the stunning rural
backdrop of River Cottage HQ, youll start both days
with treats fresh from the kitchen, before getting
stuck into hands-on classes and demonstrations led by

the River Cottage chefs and tutors. Lunch is included
and, after a hard days cooking, youll relax and enjoy
the fruits of your labour with a three-course supper.
You should leave the course armed with new skills,
lots more confidence and heaps of cooking inspiration.
Whats more, the winner will take home two River
Cottage cookbooks and a years River Cottage
membership, giving discounts on future courses and
access to special offers. It will be a weekend to
remember, but youve got to be in it to win it
To enter, visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk/promotions.*
For terms and conditions, see p137. For more information
on River Cottage cookery courses, visit rivercottage.net
CLOCKWISE FROM
MAIN PICTURE
On fine days,
course-goers
eat together in
the River Cottage
garden; the
cookery school;
breadmaking
is part of the
two-day course
THE CHALLENGE
KOUIGN AMANN
I rst ate a kouign amann (pronounced queen amon
with a Breton accent) in a restaurant in Paris. I ordered
it because I was intrigued by the name. A small piece of
crisp, buttery sugared pastry arrived, hardly more than
a mouthful, but it was so good we had to order another, and
Ive been smitten ever since. The kouign amann had its big UK moment
on The Great British Bake Off in 2014, when it foxed the contestants.
Having worked to perfect this recipe,
I feel for anyone who tries to do it from
start to nish in three hours. Theres
no denying that making these pastries
is a labour of love, but most of the
time is taken up by the dough resting
in the fridge after rolling. I promise
you the rewards for your patience will
be rich. And if, like me, you think what
a croissant is really crying out for is
more butter, this is probably the
perfect pastry.
REBECCA WOOLLARD, FOOD EDITOR
PHOTOGRAPHS STUART WEST

FOOD STYLING ROSIE RAMSDEN
STYLING SARAH BIRKS
PROBLEM 1
PROBLEM 2
PROBLEM 3
The pastry is greasy
The pastry is dense
Not sweet enough
Kouign amann
MAKES 16. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR, OVEN
TIME 25-30 MIN, PLUS CHILLING, RISING
AND PROVING
This recipe
calls for the
dough to be rolled out,
then folded, 6 times.
Some recipes call for as
little as 3 roll-andfolds, but to get the
lightness and layering
required, it really
needs 5-6. If any pastry
is worth doing properly
THE FIX
Part of the
THE FIX kouign
amanns attraction is
that its a bit sweet and
a bit savoury. To get the
balance right we
sprinkled sugar at
3 strategic points: first
during the rolling and
folding of the dough;
then on both sides of
the rolled pastry
squares (to
help them
crisp up and
caramelise);
and a third time
before baking,
to give the
pastries
a crunchy top.
Start these in the morning

to have them ready for
teatime. Or make the dough
as in step 1, then leave in the fridge
to rise overnight. Remove from the
fridge 45 minutes before knocking
back in step 2. The flavour will be
enhanced by this slow rise. The
finished pastries will keep for 1-2
days but are best on the day theyre
baked. Warm them through if
serving a while after baking.
Weve measured the liquid
FOOD
TEAMS by weight rather than volume
TIPS
as its more accurate.
We used dried fast-action yeast
for ease but if you want to use fresh,
crumble and rub 15g of it through the
flour before adding the salt (step 1).
MAKE
AHEAD
500g strong white bread flour,

plus extra for dusting
7g sachet dried fast-action yeast
(see tips)
5g fine salt
300g warm water
60-80g semi-skimmed milk
300g Brittany butter (with salt
crystals in it), at a temperature
thats pliable without being soft,
plus 60g, softened, for greasing
150g caster sugar
YOULL ALSO NEED
1-2 large-hole muffin tins (youll

need 16 holes)
1 Put the flour in a mixing bowl, then
stir through the yeast and salt. Mix
the water with 60g of the milk in a
jug, then pour into the flour, stirring
with a palette knife until you get a
shaggy, but not wet, dough [A]. You
might need the extra 20g milk. Tip
out the dough onto a lightly floured
surface and knead for 10 minutes
or until smooth and elastic. Clean
the bowl and lightly grease with
T HE CH A LLENGE
Most recipes
THE FIX tell you to
sprinkle the sugar
straight onto the butter
in the dough, but we
found this made the
butter soggy and more
likely to leak through
the dough layers,
making the pastry less
puffed and crisp. We
only incorporate the
sugar on the fourth
roll-and-fold, which we
found works better. And
if you notice the sugar
leaking out at any time,
just scatter over
a light dusting of flour
and carry on.
BE A BE T TER COOK
HOW WE CRACKED IT Common problems we addressed when perfecting the recipe, and how we
xed them. As with all recipes, read it all the way through, including the tips, before you begin
B
MORE TIPS FOR SUCCESS
Be patient! Rushing the rolling and folding of
the pastry will cause the layers to merge, forming
a dense, tough pastry. Give the dough the full
resting time in the fridge; it will make the rolling
easier, and ensure the best end results.
If you find that butter is breaking through the
layers, pat a generous amount of flour over the
exposed bit and carry on. Careful, rather than
heavy-handed, rolling will reduce the risk, as
will making sure that the underside of the dough
is well floured at all times. If necessary, brush
off the excess later.
Hold your nerve. If it doesnt look quite right,
dont assume its ruined chances are it will
still look and taste gorgeous.
NEXT MONTH
Fruit curd: start

with the classic
lemon spread,
then try other
fantastic flavours
a little of the softened butter, then

return the dough to it [B]. Cover with
cling film or a plastic bag, then
leave somewhere warm to rise for
around 2 hours or overnight in the
fridge (see Make Ahead).
2 Once the dough is puffy and has
doubled in size, put the 300g butter
between 2 sheets of baking paper
and bash with a rolling pin [C] to
form a rectangle roughly 25cm x
35cm its easiest to bash it out
to a roughly correct shape, then
fold the baking paper around
it in a rectangle thats the right
size, before rolling the butter
to fit perfectly into the rectangle.
Tip the dough onto the lightly floured
surface again, knead it briefly again
to knock out large air bubbles, then
roll out to form a rectangle roughly
C
30cm x 45cm. It will spring back as
you roll; just be patient and try to
roll rather than stretch the dough.
3 Start with one of the short ends of
the pastry rectangle facing you.
Place the 300g butter in the bottom
two thirds of the dough [D] there
should be a small pastry border at
the sides. Fold the top third of the
dough over the middle third, dust
the flour off the exposed side, then
fold the bottom, butter-covered third
over that, as if youre folding a letter.
4 Turn the dough a quarter-turn to
the right, so one open edge is facing
you and the other is at the top. Roll
out the dough [E] until it has doubled
in length, then repeat the rollingand-folding process the top third
comes down and the bottom third
goes up [F]. Neaten the edges to
keep them straight using a palette
knife or ruler (it doesnt have to be
perfect), then wrap tightly in cling
film and chill for 40-60 minutes.
Mark how many folds youve done on
the cling film (its 2 at this point).
5 Once the dough is chilled and firm,
repeat the rolling-and-folding twice
more as above. After the fourth roll,
sprinkle 100g of the sugar over the
dough, trying to leave a 1-2cm
border [G]. Fold the pastry like
a letter again, then wrap tightly in a
new piece of cling film and chill to
firm up again. Repeat the roll-andfold twice more (6 times in total),
still keeping the edges neat with
a palette knife, then wrap in a new
piece of cling film and chill again.
6 Once the dough is firm, roll it out
into a square, roughly 40cm x 40cm.

Use a large, heavy-bladed knife to
trim the edges into neat lines, then
cut into 16 x 9-10cm squares. Cut the
dough by pressing the blade straight
down [I], rather than sawing at it
you want to keep the layers intact.
You should be able to clearly see the
layers of butter in the dough [J].
7 Generously grease the muffin tins
with the remaining softened butter
(use it all). Brush any excess flour
from the tops of the dough squares
with a pastry brush, then sprinkle
half the remaining sugar over them,
patting gently to make it stick. Flip
them over, brush and repeat,
reserving 2 tbsp sugar. Fold the 4
corners of each dough square into
the middle [K], then push the pastry
shapes into the muffin tins so the
folded corners are at the top [L].
Cover with a plastic bag or a loose
piece of cling film and leave to prove
somewhere cool for 45-60 minutes.
gas 6. Once the kouign amanns
have puffed up, sprinkle with the
remaining sugar, then bake for
15 minutes. Turn the oven down
to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 and bake
for 10-15 minutes more until the
pastries are golden and crisp. Lift
them straight out of the tins onto
a wire rack, then allow to cool to
just warm or room temperature.
Enjoy with a coffee or a Breton cider.
PER KOUIGN AMANN 318kcals,
BE A BE T TER COOK
T HE CH A LLENGE
BANGKOK
CITY OF SURPRISES
Thailand is famed for full-on avours and spicy, tantalising food,
so it comes as a surprise that the favourite late-night snack of
its capital city is a watery rice gruel. Xanthe Clay visits
Bangkok to discover thats only half the story
PHOTOGRAPHS NAURARAT SUKSOMSTARN
hungry traveller.
It was midnight in
Bangkok, and we were
hungry. Very hungry.
We piled into the back
of a tinsel decorated
tuk-tuk, one of the thousands of
moped-powered taxis that buzz
around the city, and headed off to
nd some khao tom kui, Bangkoks
favourite late-night snack.
Khao tom kui fulls the same
role as the British post-pub kebab,
but as always with the Thais,
they arent settling for greasy,
substandard food. This is congee
(traditional rice porridge) with
bells on or, to be more specic,
with a topping of all sorts of
freshly prepared, avour-packed
Thai goodies.
OLD-SCHOOL THAI
LIGHTS IN THE DARK
Bangkok a city
that never sleeps
The stall we found under a

motorway yover looked like
a surreal open-air squat The
Young Ones meets The Royle Family.
The television on the wall played
Thai soap operas, and there were
dogs sleeping under the table away
from the glare of the uorescent
strip lighting. But the chef expertly
ladled out the pure white congee
into deep bowls, and tossed platter
after platter of toppings in his wok,
picking ingredients from the array
of 30-odd dishes around the gas
ame on his tiny workstation.
Onto the pink plastic plates he
tipped fried pork mince redolent of
ginger and sweet-salty sh sauce;
clams with chilli; slices of beef in
fermented bean sauce; duck with
ve-spice; and wilted greens
with more ginger. And that wasnt
all: alongside were cold toppings of
spring onions, more ginger, basil,
crisp fried shallots, halved limes
and more chilli (the Thais cant get
enough ginger and chilli, and Im
not arguing with that). Once our
table was full, we perched on plastic
stools and piled the tidbits onto the
congee, turning it deep brown. As
we devoured the savoury, satisfying
mix, the dogs, suddenly wide awake,
stared hopefully at us.
I was here in Thailands capital
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP Colourful
fruit and veg

at Bangkoks Or
Tor Kor market;
London caf
owner and
Thailand expert,
Saiphin Moore;
a night-market
in Bangkok,
selling fresh
meat; maprang
tiny mangoes;
a bowl of boat
noodles
with Saiphin Moore, the ebullient

owner of Rosas Thai Caf, which
has six branches in London with
more planned. Hailing from
northern Thailand, she was my
translator as well as my guide:
by no means all the signs or menus
in the elegantly cursive but
impenetrable (to me) Thai script
were anglicised.
THE BOROUGH MARKET

OF BANGKOK
Even if I had the lingo, Bangkok is
a place made for confusion, a place
of paradoxes, yin and yang, old and
new. To start with, the city is sliced
in half by the Chao Phraya river,
with the east bank housing the
modern districts and the western
side the ancient capital of Siam,
Thon Buri. But its the more modern
half that Saiphin wanted to
introduce me to, so we headed early
the next morning for the Or Tor
Kor market in the north of Bangkok,
on Kamphaengphet Road.
Inside the whitewashed building
the stalls were clean, bright and
colourful with produce. Red rose
apples, guava and maprang
tiny yellow mangoes that can
be eaten skin and all were

wrapped in smart cellophane bags.
Bundles of morning glory stems
and bags of three-month salted egg
yolks nestled alongside metre-high
mounds of garlic and deep pink
Thai shallots. There was plenty of
seafood: huge baskets of dried sh
and squid, mostly pressed paper
thin, and tiny dried shrimp. The
fresh stuff included prawns, some
as large as lobster; tuna and tilapia;
tanks of live mantis shrimps; and
piles of blue crabs, their claws
bound shut with green reeds.
I snafed a bag of charcoalgrilled peppercorns, smoky and
spicy, to stash in my suitcase, before
calling in at stall 9/25 for a plastic
tub of papaya salad, freshly made
by uniformed young women who
deftly scooped ingredients into
their mortars with one hand, while
pounding with the other.
Next we headed across the road
to Chatuchak Weekend Market
(chatuchak.org), a maze of tightly
packed stands selling clothes,
souvenirs and ingredients. But it
was lunchtime and we were after
kuai tiao ruea or boat noodles (the
best are found in lane 8 of the
market). Its a traditional dish of the

old capital, composed of a ery
broth with pork or beef, often
garnished with crisp pork
scratchings. Add ve-spice powder
and pigs blood as a thickener (think
of it as black pudding soup) and it
becomes namtok or waterfall
WHERE TO STAY
The Eugenia Hotel & Spa
Step back in time at this
colonial-style boutique
hotel, furnished with
antiques and interesting
paraphernalia, in the
upmarket Sukhumvit
district. theeugenia.
inetasiapreview.com
Hotel Muse
A high-rise tower near posh
Ratchadamri Road and
Lumpini Park. On the roof
is the Speakeasy bar,
popular with Bangkoks
bright young things.
hotelmusebangkok.com
hungry traveller.
MEET THE STREET FOOD GUYS
BANGKOK IN A POT
The som tam seller

Mr Chai (below) moved to Bangkok with
his family more than 10 years ago. He
used to be a rice farmer but couldnt
make ends meet after a drought ruined his
crops. Now he gets up at 1am every day to
buy ingredients at Klong Toey Market and
prepare the shreds of firm papaya that
form the base of som tam (papaya salad),
both the Laos style (with salted crab and
anchovy) and the simpler Bangkok style.
He sells 80 portions a day at 25baht (55p)
each from his cart. Theres no secret to
making great som tam I just follow my
wifes recipe. But you need good papaya.
Papaya salad that

tastes hot, sour,
sweet and salty
noodles. Ask for sen yai if you like

the broad, papardelle noodles that
are satisfyingly satiny next to the
shreds of meat.
AFTER DARK
In the evening, Saiphin took me
to The Never Ending Summer,
a restaurant set in an industrialchic warehouse by the river
(41/5 Charoen Nakhon Rd, The Jam
Factory, Khlong San). Its popular
with hip young Thais. Soigne
waitresses serve up traditional
dishes such as betel leaf salad on
banana leaves and cool kao chae
(jasmine iced-water rice), exquisitely
presented and with perfectly mixed
cocktails. Non-drinkers can sip
fragrant purple glasses of water
infused with dried owers from the
buttery pea plant.
Going beyond the bounds of
Thailand in its dishes is Opposite
Mess Hall (oppositebangkok.com),
which is a hangout for local chefs
and serves Pan-Asian small plates
as well as kick-ass cocktails.
After dinner came after-dinner
drinks. Saiphin recommended the
bars of Silom Road and Thong Lor.
We settled on the latter.
The coconut milk lady

Mauy Setio (left) set up as a coconut milk
seller in Or Tor Kor market 38 years ago
and she still has the callouses from
grinding the coconuts by hand. But after
10 years she bought a grinding machine,
and on a busy weekend shell get through
400 coconuts to make 200kg coconut milk.
Her assistants put the shelled coconut
into a hopper and start up the grinder.
Next they scoop the snowy pulp into a
cloth bag, then put it in a hydraulic press,
and rich, creamy milk gushes out. They
open the bag, add a scoop of water and
press again this still counts as first
press. Then they add more water, and
re-press the coconut, for the thinner
second pressing. Coconut milk costs
60baht (1.30) whether its first or second
press, but the first press is the best.
hungry traveller.
MIDNIGHT FEAST
Revellers never
need go hungry in
Bangkok, with its
late-night stalls
TRY
THIS AT
HOME...
Saiphin Moores
Khao soi with chicken
This is best made fresh,

MAKE
AHEAD but it will keep for up to
2 days in the fridge. To
make it in advance, use boneless
chicken thighs they will stay
more tender than breasts.
Use ready-made red curry
FOOD
TEAMS paste if youre pushed for
TIPS
time, or visit delicious
magazine.co.uk/red-curry.
1 tbsp vegetable oil
3 tbsp Thai red curry paste (see
tips)
400ml coconut milk
500g skinless free-range
chicken breast, cut into
bite-size pieces
2 tbsp fish sauce
tsp dark soy sauce
1 tsp palm sugar (or brown
sugar)
4 nests dried egg noodles
TO GARNISH
NEXT
MONTH
The insiders
guide to Nice
on the French
Riviera
Chopped pickled cabbage we

used red cabbage
Chopped shallots
Chilli sauce, such as sriracha

Fresh coriander leaves
Lime wedges
1 Heat the oil in a medium
saucepan over a high heat. Add
the curry paste and stir-fry for a
few seconds. Pour in the coconut
milk and bring to the boil, then
reduce the heat to medium and
cook, stirring occasionally, until
the red oil rises to the surface.
Add the chicken and cook for
10 minutes or until cooked through.
2 Add the fish sauce, dark soy
sauce and palm/brown sugar,
bring the mix to the boil, then turn
off the heat. Taste it it should be
slightly salty but balanced.
3 Cook the egg noodles until
tender, according to the packet
instructions, then drain and divide
among serving bowls.
4 Ladle the curry on top of the
noodles, then garnish with the
pickled cabbage, shallots, chilli
sauce and coriander. Serve with
lime wedges for squeezing.
4.4g fibre
PHOTOGRAPH: ALEX LUCK. FOOD STYLING: LOTTIE COVELL. STYLING: DAVINA PERKINS
Thong Lor is a road running

perpendicular to the raised Skytrain
rails that snake futuristically
through Bangkok. We headed to the
northern end of it, to a joint
recommended by Saiphins friend,
actress, singer and girl-about-town
Bee Xoomsai.
A R Sutton & Co Engineers
Siam (Park Lane Ekkamai, G/F,
Sukhumvit Soi 63) is the only bar
still owned by Ashley Sutton, the
Australian miner-turned-designer
who revolutionised the Bangkok
bar scene with his whimsical
drinking dens. Its a steampunk
dream, complete with waistcoated
bartenders, medicine bottle
displays and a wrought-iron
spiral staircase, a world away from
the nightlife of old-school Bangkok.
By the end of the night, all we
had left to decide was whether
we had space for an after-hours
bowl of khao tom kui...
for your files.
MARCH 2016
RECIPE INDEX
STARTERS, SIDES, NIBBLES
Apple and fennel slaw 52

Fennel, rocket and herb salad
with dijon vinaigrette 62
Litti chokha 90
Parmesan sabls 48
Purple sprouting broccoli with
soft-boiled egg and crisp rosemary
breadcrumbs 61
Quick apple rarebits 3
Smoked mackerel and quickpickled shallot toasts 61
Smoked salmon pt with
quick-pickled radish and
cucumber 51
Spinach and goats cheese
croquetas 95
Tortilla de bacalao 96
MAIN COURSES
BEEF
Beef rump with salsa verde and
sherry-roast root vegetables 88
Beef stroganoff 112
New York downtown eggs 36
LAMB
Persian lamb, apricot and
pistachio koofteh 40
PORK
Almond and herb stuffed leg of
pork with confit potatoes, apples
and madeira 62
Aussie egg in a hole 38
Egg and black pudding on
a Scottish morning roll 38
Eggy-bread grilled cheese
sandwich 41
Ham hock, sausage and cider
raised pie 54
Pork, leek and cider
cobbler 44
Pork tenderloin with roasted
feta, rosemary, sage and olive oil
potatoes 110
Scotch eggs 125
Spring onion, herby ricotta and
nduja toasts 86
Ukrainian village breakfast 36
POULTRY
Chicken, mushroom and riesling
cobbler 42
Chicken noodle soup 108
56
Chicken stewed in cider and
apples 95
Duck pancakes with quick-pickled
spring onions 87
Griddled chicken, avocado and
pumpernickel salad 108
Khao soi with chicken 136
FISH AND SHELLFISH
Crispy hake with cauliflower
pure, apples and walnuts 80
Megrim sole with grape dressing
and roast garlic & potato pure 82
Pan-fried salmon with sweet-andsour leeks 111
Saffron fish pie 72
Soused sardines with red cabbage
and seaweed salad cream 83
Squid, fennel and chorizo salad
with orange oil 80
Thai prawn cakes with dipping
sauce and rocket salad 106
VEGETARIAN & MEAT-FREE
Broccoli, chilli and lemon
spaghetti 107
Cauliflower and barley
cheese 118
Pumpkin and sesame
fritters 115
Roasted cauliflower and
pesto pasta 109
Roasted shallot and parsnip
lentil salad 111
Spring green, sweet potato
and chilli frittata 107
111
Sticky alliums with lentils and
hazelnut gremolata 115
Thai green sweetcorn soup 117
Warming sweet potato and
ginger soup 52
SWEET THINGS
Caramelised pears with hazelnut

praline ice cream 98
Cornish saffron hot cross
bun loaf 68
Individual rhubarb, demerara
and almond cobblers 45
Kouign amann 129
cheesecake 48
Lighter vanilla rice pudding 113
Pomegranate cake 93
Saffron crme brle tart 70
Sweetshop crispy cakes 56
Vanilla cheesecake with blood
oranges, caramel and hazelnut
Hobnob crust 65
40
CHOCOLATE RECIPES
Banana, peanut and caramel

chocolate ice cream sundae IX
Chocolate and hazelnut
sharing loaf XV
Chocolate coffee meringue
roulade XVI
Chocolate fondants X
Chocolate mousse and
passion fruit tart VIII
Chocolate porter cake XV
Chocolate truffle no-churn
ice cream IX
Hot cross bun brownies XVI
Mini melting chocolate
pastries VIII
Pecan and pretzel salted
caramel bars IX
Sour cherry and chocolate
simnel cake with hazelnut
marzipan X
OTHER
Cobbler topping 42
Demerara and lemon champagne
cocktail 61
Pasta 122
Punchy pesto 51
Sweet saffron lassi 71
MORE AT THE
GET
delicious. WEBSITE
Find 1,000s more tested
recipes and techniques on
our website and join the
delicious. online community.
Visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk
TERMS AND CONDITIONS 1. All information forms part of the terms and conditions. 2. Open to UK residents aged 18 and over, except employees (and their families) of Eye to Eye Media Ltd
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9. Information given will not be supplied to a third party. 10. Eye to Eye Media Ltd reserves the right to amend these terms and conditions, or to cancel, alter or amend the promotion, if
deemed necessary in its opinion. RIVER COTTAGE COMPETITION 1. The Two Days at River Cottage cookery course is not suitable for those with allergies or dietary requirements. The
winner must book a course that takes place before 31 March 2017. The prize is non-transferable once dates are confirmed. 2. The prize is for one winner and a guest; both must be
over 18. Accommodation and transport are not included. Promoter: River Cottage HQ, Trinity Hill Road, Axminster, Devon, EX13 8TB.
GREAT ESCAPES
A magical weekend in Spain

FINCA CORTESIN, ANDALUSIA
CLOCKWISE FROM
ABOVE Relax
under the palms

by the pool;
open-air sofas
invite relaxation;
sun, sea and sand
at the Beach
Club; moreish
food (at Kabuki
Raw) and
Moorish
architecture;
sweet treats
from Ronda
sually Im not a fan of large

hotels because their size
makes them impersonal.
Finca Cortesin, near Estepona
on the south coast of Spain, is an
exception. And, actually, it doesnt
have a huge number of rooms
(67, to be exact) its the grounds,
facilities and the generous amount
of space given to covered terraces
and shady corners that make the
place seem as if it must play host
to hundreds of guests. Yet it never
feels busy, apart from just the right
amount of buzz at mealtimes,
because this is a destination known
for its food, so people come from far
and wide to eat in the restaurants.
The hotel is akin to a hacienda
clusters of two and three-storey

white buildings nestling in the
shade of gnarled olive trees, looking
out towards the Mediterranean.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS When you arrive,
the hotel is all tinkling fountains
and high-ceilinged white, dappledshade rooms and terraces, the
greeny-blue sea shimmering in the
distance. One word comes to mind:
peace. Everywhere you walk there
are owers, huge terracotta pots
bursting with plants, and cushionstrewn chairs and sofas begging
you to sink in and enjoy a couple of
hours in the company of a book.
There are so many ways to ease
yourself into relaxation mode: you
can be buffed in the spa, choose
from one of four restaurants dotted

around the grounds (all excellent),
swim in the two tranquil tree-lined
pools or head to the Beach Club
and soak up a few rays there. And
then theres the golf course, for
which Finca Cortesin is famous
Although If you have no interest
in whacking little balls around, its
surprisingly easy to forget the golf
course is there. Top of the billing,
of course, is the food.
FINE EATING First off, breakfast on the
terrace: enjoy the most delicate,
aky, just-baked pastries and bread,
eggs any which way, freshly pressed
juice from Spanish oranges and
creamy homemade yogurt.
In the evening the sophisticated
hungry traveller.
WHILE YOURE THERE...

You have to see
Ronda (left), about
45 minutes drive
away, up in the
mountains. Its an
outstanding hilltop
town with a rich
past dating back
to the sixth century. The views will stay in your
memory long after youve arrived home. While
youre there, go to La Casa del Dulce in Calle
Tenorio and try the mantecada almond biscuits,
made by nuns. Or, on Calle Arminan, just by the
arched bridge, there are shops selling similar
sweet treats, dredged with icing sugar, as well
as wine and cheese. Other top sights are the
Arab Baths, bullring and Mondragon Palace,
with its beautiful gardens.
Malaga, further afield (two or so hours
drive), is also well worth a day of exploring
especially the old town and the Picasso
Museum (Malaga was the artists home town).
GETTING THERE AND GETTING AROUND

Best bet is to fly to Malaga although
Gibraltar is an option, too. Skyscanner.com is
good for finding deals flights can cost under
120 return out of high season.
Car hire: its cheap if you shop around. Try
RentalCars.com to find the best prices (from
less than 17 per day out of high season).
choice is Michelin-starred Kabuki

Raw, renowned for its sashimi. The
sh is so fresh its almost jumping.
Try the sashimi, soft shell crab sushi
roll and the langoustine tempura.
Theres also a good ne-dining (yet
relaxed) Spanish restaurant called
El Jardn de Lutz, with a terrace
leading to the manicured lawns
a magical setting on a warm night.
In the Italian restaurant, Don
Giovanni, the pizzas are thin, crisp
and made with no-holds-barred
ingredients, from langoustines
to trufe shavings although
I preferred the simpler choices.
And although the food rates highly,
the atmosphere is slightly lacking.
All the wine lists have an
interesting mix of bottles, from

Spain and further aeld. In the Blue
Bar you can have exotic teas, cakes,
small tapas plates and cocktails.
For a more intimate atmosphere,
take the courtesy shuttle bus (or
walk) the 1.5km to the Beach Club,
away from the hotel grounds. Its
a piece of paradise small, selfcontained and right on the waters
edge. Theres a caf serving vibrant
salads and light bites all day long.
THE ROOMS Most are in elegant muted
tones but some have bolder colours
in the cushions and throws. The beds
are massive and the bathrooms
smooth-tiled and softly lit. Every
room is a suite; every room has
a balcony or private terrace.
WHEN TO GO Summer on the Costa del

Sol means full-on heat, although
theres invariably a breeze so the
climate isnt as punishing as inland
Seville, which can reach 50C in
mid July. Autumn and spring are
more temperate, but its rarely cold.
THE COST From 350 B&B per room,
per night, for two people in a junior
suite. But look out for packages on
the website (ncacortesin.com) for
around 640 for two nights B&B,
including car hire, use of the spa
and a free room upgrade. The hotel
also does Hike & Bike packages,
where you can cycle or walk (or a mix
of both) in the nearby mountains,
using the hotel as a base.
KAREN BARNES
COMIN G N E XT M ON T H I N
ON
SALE
1-30 APRIL
THE JOY OF SPRING!
Wonderful ideas for all that new produce

OFelicity Cloakes fresh seasonal menu
OAfternoon tea and cake with Mary Berry
O
PLUS...
COLLECTORS EDITION PART 2:
16 PAGES OF BRILLIANT BREAD
RECIPES TO PULL OUT AND KEEP
And dont miss
CURRIES FROM AROUND THE WORLD OTHE PEOPLE WHO

USE FOOD TO DO GOOD OA FOOD LOVERS GUIDE TO NICE
O
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FOOD LOVERS CROSSWORD

No. 27
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Subscription enquiries 01795 414857 delicious@servicehelpline.co.uk
Editorial enquiries 020 7803 4100 Fax 020 7803 4101
Email info@deliciousmagazine.co.uk Web deliciousmagazine.co.uk
THIS MONTH WE ASKED Whats your favourite weird food combo?
Editor Karen Barnes Dijon mustard & grated cheddar stirred into pasta
Deputy editor Susan Low Sriracha sauce on spaghetti
Editorial assistant Daisy Meager Marmite and peanut butter on toast
Food editor Rebecca Woollard Peanut butter on toast under baked beans
Deputy food editor Lottie Covell Granulated sugar on buttered toast
Cookery assistant Ella Tarn Celery and peanut butter
Art director Jocelyn Bowerman Cream cheese and jam on toast
Art editor Martine Tinney Pie, mash and liquor
See how much you really know about the

world of food with Hugh Thompsons
culinary conundrum. Answers next month
ACROSS
1
6
7
9
10
12
14
17
18
19
Pungent sandwich spread, once popular, now less so (4,5)

Gastropod mollusc not eaten much this side of the channel (5)
The kind of pick-me-up that goes perfectly with gin (5)
High protein cultured dairy product from Iceland (4)
Area of western Scotland known for whisky and oysters (6)
Spongy teff flatbread a national dish of Ethiopia (6)
Starch made from palm trees, can be used to make a pudding (4)
Japanese name for orange salmon eggs used in sushi (5)
Jewish potato pancake (5)
Room for communal meals, especially in a monastery (9)
DOWN
2
3
4
5
6
8
11
13
15
16
Ossau _____ : sheeps cheese from the Pyrenees (5)

To remove the calyx of berries (4)
Informal name for the sweet course (6)
Herb with yellow flowers once used to flavour puddings (5)
Sliced raw seafood served in Japan (7)
Semi-circular filled bread, resembles a pizza folded in half (7)
To coat a tin or dish with fat to prevent food sticking to it (6)
Vin _____ : golden yellow, oxidised wine from Jura (5)
Essential oil distilled from petals and blossom (5)
An overabundance, especially of seasonal fruit or veg (4)
Solution to no. 26 ACROSS: 1. Empanadas 6. Curds 7. Broth 9. Malt 10. Grner

12. Oxtail 14. Pass 17. Ergot 18. Aroma 19. Arrowroot DOWN: 2. Morel 3. Aush
4. Albert 5. Acorn 6. Compote 8. Harissa 11. Bistro 13. Tiger 15. Adobo 16. Parr
Managing editor Les Dunn Peas on toast

Deputy chief sub editor Hugh Thompson Celery and Marmite
Senior sub editor Rebecca Almond Poached eggs with balsamic glaze
Food consultants Matthew Drennan, Debbie Major
Wine editor Susy Atkins Gadget tester Aggie MacKenzie
Contributors James Ramsden, Lucas Hollweg
Web producer Rebecca Brett 020 7803 4130 Chinese noodles and mayo
Promotions and marketing executive
Hannah Sherwood 020 7803 4129 Salty chips dipped in milkshake
Digital and social media assistant
Kathleen Silverfield Toasted crumpets and houmous
With thanks to: Victoria Bushnell, Ellie Davies, Megan Davies, Emelia Jackson
Advertising director Jason Elson 020 7150 5397
Head of print & partnerships Nicola Shubrook 020 7150 5037
Group head, digital partnerships Roxane Rix 020 7150 5039
Senior sales, partnerships Emma Newman 020 7150 5038
Project manager, partnerships Emily Griffin 020 7150 5036
Group head, brand team Catherine Nicolson 020 7150 5044
Senior sales executive, brand team Abigail Snelling 020 7150 5030
Group head, digital Anna Priest 020 7150 5191
Senior sales executive, digital Carly Ancell 020 7150 5404
Sales planner, digital Sophia Chan 020 7150 5697
Sales executive, classified Tim Bennett 020 7150 5653
Regional business development manager, digital and partnerships
David Hill 0161 209 3632
Regional business development manager
Nicola Rearden 0161 209 3629
Managing director Seamus Geoghegan
020 7803 4123 seamus.geoghegan@eyetoeyemedia.co.uk
Publishing director Adrienne Moyce
020 7803 4111 adrienne.moyce@eyetoeyemedia.co.uk
Consultant editorial director Jo Sandilands
Circulation director Owen Arnot 020 7803 4121
Production director Jake Hopkins 020 7803 4110
Finance director Gary Pickett gary.pickett@eyetoeyemedia.co.uk
Finance manager Adam Wright 01733 373135
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a good rant.
Add a splash of fruit avouring and a drop of antioxidant

and suddenly what looks like a plain old bottle of water
becomes a must-have superfood with a supercharged
price tag. What a wheeze, says this food writer
By SUE QUINN
Why are some of us crazy
enough to pay a kings
ransom for liquid that, in
the UK at least, comes free
and clean straight from the tap? Drinks
producers are having a laugh and
were lapping up the punch line. Just
wander down the drinks aisle of your
supermarket or health food shop and
youll see what I mean.
Now that coconut water is so last
year, health hipsters wanting a taste
of the latest trend are spoilt for
choice. As well as birch water,
maple water and cactus water made
from plant saps, there are a host of
bizarre new enhanced waters
ooding the shelves.
All kinds of stuff is being squeezed
into H2O, including a cornucopia of fruit
and vegetable avourings and fortifying
vitamins and minerals. You can buy
vapour-distilled spring water with added
electrolytes, alkaline waters (alkaline trace
mineral-infused water) and, my favourite,
Antiwater (made with nano-ltered H2O,
The market for this

stuff is projected
to be worth almost
26 billion by 2019
coffee fruit extract and selenium the

antioxidant that gives it its name). So far
the latter is only available in the US or
online, but it will no doubt be whooshing
down the waterslide to the UK soon. After
all, the manufacturers predict the future is
clear you couldnt make it up.
Its this halo effect that drinks producers
are trying to conjure that really makes me
fume. Predictably, the majority of
Do you think Sue has a valid point,

or do you take a different view?
Email us at info@delicious
magazine.co.uk and well print
the best replies.
ILLUSTRATION: ISTOCK
Down with
flavoured
water!
functional (no, I dont know what that

means either) waters are being marketed
as though theyre life-giving liquids fresh
from the spring at Lourdes. The labels
display promises of health benets that
range from curing your hangover to
improving your immune system and
detoxifying your liver. I dont know how
many bottles of artichoke water youd need
to guzzle to get the same health benet as
eating a plateful of the real McCoy, but Id
wager it would be quite a few. And at
about 2 (its not available in the UK yet)
and 8g sugar a bottle, its clear your
wallet will be slimmer, if nothing else.
Then theres the cocktail of additives
many of the waters are bottled up with.
Drinks with images of juicy berries on
the label seem harmless enough because,
well, the liquid is pure, right? Well,
not exactly The truth is, many such
waters are pumped full of sugar, articial
sweeteners and avourings the other
vitamins and antioxidants theyre
fortied with seem, at least to me,
to be added as an afterthought simply
to justify the health claims that make
sales of the stuff soar.
Flavoured water is projected to be
worth almost 26 billion worldwide by
2019 a sad statistic, but we all know
why drinks producers are churning this
stuff out. Fizzy drinks are fast losing
their sparkle as consumers become
more sugar-savvy and look for healthier
options to quench their thirst.
Time to take stock: a nutritionist
I interviewed once for an article about
avoured water pointed out that CocaCola was just that avoured water,
originally touted as a medicinal drink
that would cure a multitude of illnesses.
Something to bear that in mind next time
you reach for a bottle of infused clear stuff
with lots of health claims on the label.
Or better still, why dont we save our fruit
and veg for eating (and our money for
something worthwhile) and enjoy water
in its gloriously natural, good-for-you,
accessible form straight from the tap?

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DONT MISS...

Hot cross bun loaf

at the end of this month, which means

The ve-minute recipe:

Special A word that sums up

KAREN BARNES, EDITOR

Follow Karen on Twitter

WORDS: KAREN BARNES. PHOTOGRAPHS: MIKE NICHOLAS, RHAPSODY.

this Easter issue, which has so many

A quarter of British adults

FOR A RAINY AFTERNOON

MONET, LUNCH AND FIZZ

YOUR E AS TER INSPIR ATION

34 HOW DO YOU LIKE YOUR EGGS? Possibly

42 ALWAYS A WINNER: COBBLER One topping,

47 THE FRIDGE OF DREAMS If you fill it with

58 EASTER LUNCH Elegant but relaxed is it

67 THE HERITAGE INGREDIENT: SAFFRON

Recipe and food styling Rebecca Woollard

of beef? We reckon its due a revival

90 TASTES LIKE HOME When Dad got cooking,

92 TREND INGREDIENT: POMEGRANATE MOLASSES

94 JOS PIZARROS FOOD FROM THE HEART

Once youve tried hot cross bun loaf,

Easter will never be the same again

105 GOOD-FOR-YOU MIDWEEK MEALS How

MORE GRE AT RECIPES

76 NATHAN OUTLAWS SEAFOOD SPECIAL

Our online shop is now open!

Spankingly fresh dishes from the

84 STAR OF THE SEASON Are you making the

88 ROAST OF THE MONTH Remember rump

113 HEALTHY MAKEOVER Vanilla rice pudding

V IS FOR VEGE TARIAN

RECIPES THAT WORK Every

recipe is rigorously tested

INGREDIENTS We aim to use

This symbol next to an

HONEST COOKING TIMES

INBOX Whats on your mind this month?

11 FOR STARTERS Events, trends and

interesting nibbles of news

17 MY LIFE ON A PLATE Chef Anthony

18 WISH LIST This months best buys,

22 FOOD HERO Whats an American boy

25 TEST REPORT An everyday cookbook,

28 WHAT HAS IMMIGRATION EVER DONE FOR US?

128 THE CHALLENGE Its that Bake Off

Quite a lot, says Guy Dimond, when it

99 CHEERS! Susy Atkins finds the best buys

102 THE SANE VIEW: GLUTEN According to the

132 HUNGRY TRAVELLER Climb into a tuk-tuk

138 GREAT ESCAPES A food lovers retreat in

146 RANT Flavoured water? Just no!

OTHER GOOD THINGS

WIN! A two-day River Cottage course

Unlike many magazines,

KNOW- see this symbol,

youll find useful

Indicates you can freeze

PRICES are correct at

foodie stay for

ts the ultimate food lovers