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Research on the mechanism of the homy layers barrier function has been
conducted since the mid 1980s employing electron microscopy and molecular
biology techniques. Recent reports have suggested that skin care bases may have a
beneficial effect on metabolism and homeostasis of epidermis. Investigators have
relied on hairless mouse and human skin in this research. The focus has been on the
skins barrier function and the mechanism by which it is maintained, including
pathological features of biochemistry and molecular biology. Moreover the
physiological effects of skin care product bases on the skin were demonstrated
through use of cell cultures, something that would not have been possible using
conventional techniques. Recently reported barrier function related research with
impact on future development of skin care products will be discussed in the next
sections.
HAL 355
The intercellular lipids of the horny layer consist mainly of cholesterol free fatty
acids and ceramides. When such lipids are applied to the skin surface, the lipid
molecules are thought to penetrate into the horny layer and to be taken up the
epidermal cells, they are then used in the formation of the intercellular lipid
structure as cornification proceeds. The stratum corneums barrier function is
disrupted by tape stripping and treatment with acetone or certain surfactans. Its
recovery process is differently, depending on the type of lipid or lipids applied to the
skin surface.
The result of such experiments have been very interesting. If the lipids are
applied singly or two at a time, recovery of the barrier function is delayed. However,
recovery of the barrier is promoted by use of a mixture of three types of lipids
especially when the molar ratios are equal or by mixtures in which linolenic and
palmitic acids are present at mole ratios three times those of other consistuents.
But when the barrier function is disrupted by surfactant, this effect is not
consistently observed. For example, when the barrier function is disrupted by Nlauroyl sarcosine (free acid), enhanced recovery is observed, but not if disruption is
the result of sodium dodecyl sulfate exposure. In addition, recovery may very with
the age of the animals.
It appears that the external application of lipids has varying effects on
epidermal functions, depending on the composition of the lipid preparation, the age
of the subjects, and the type of damage causing treatment. It would seem desirable
to design the reparative lipid base on the basis of the age of the users, the cosmetic
used, and the type of barrier damaging agent. The pathological changes that occur
with changes in barrier function are discussed under effect of occlusion.
humectants plays an important role in fact, they do not penetrate well when applied
alone, which is particularly true in the use of ionic ones.
The components of the horny layer include NMF constituents in keratinized
cells that can retain moisture. The cells are sorrounded with a covering of lipids. The
basis of skin care is to maintain this spesific structure, and this concept has been
embodied in the moisture balance theory. A combination of oily components,
humectants and water in an emulsion should be a most effective form for skin care.
In the future it will become increasingly important to design skin care products on
the basis of the moisture balance concept as well as of the physiology of the skin
barrier function. These issues are discussed later in this chapter.
Thus the materials and formulations discussed in this section are generally those that have been
widely used for a long period of time they are still highly valued and should be considered as starting
products on which the development of new skin care products can be based. Suppliers make continual
efforts to develop novel formulations in order to demonstrate the excellence of their products. Cosmetic
chemist should not blindly follow such formulae but use them as a reference study them, and utilize them
for the development of their own formulations.
Traditionally cosmetic skin care preparations have been sold by type and by function, that is
according to their advertised mode of application and packaging claims. For this reason consumers have
always differentiated emulsion cold creams from emulsion night creams. However, this is not a very
distinctive classification because of overlapping visual appearance, feeling on the skin ease of spreading,
and rub in characteristics. Thus creams cannot be classified by function alone, and consumers are guided
by their own judgments, using the manufacturer's indications of functions, effects, and quality only as a
guide.
However, cosmetic chemists should view this problem in terms of physics and chemistry. This
includes such aspects as the water to oil ratio, characteristics of the continuous phase, pH of the emulsion,
type of softening agent used, and the melting point of the oil phase.
There are some relationships between skin care product categories when they are ranked by
function (based on the marketer's intended use) and by subjective judgment (based on user's perception).
Another way of comparing skin care preparations may be based on the lipid levels of different types of
marketed products. When oil content data are compared directly with the intended use of more than 230
products, a modest relationship between functional descriptions and actual compositions is revealed:
Cleansing and night creams oil levels cluster at about 30-60%.
Hand and body creams rarely contain more than 20% lipids.
Vanishing creams generally contain 10-30% of an oil phase.
Lotions and milks may contain as little as 3% and rarely more than 10% of oil.