FootwearPlus December 2016

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WOMENS COMFORT
WOMENS COLLECTION
CLOGS
NATIONAL CHAIN
c Taos
c Brother Vellies
c Born
c Nordstrom
c Birkenstock
c Tory Burch
c Swedish Hasbeens
c DSW
c Earth
c Sarah Jessica Parker
c Dansko
c Foot Locker
MENS COMFORT
MENS COLLECTION
RAIN BOOTS
ONLINE RETAILER
c Rockport
c Cole Haan
c Joules
c Zappos
c Ecco
c Clarks Originals
c Chooka
c Shopbop
c Samuel Hubbard
c Common Projects
c Hunter
c ShoeBuy
BOOTS
WORK BOOTS
BEST COLLAB
BOUTIQUE
c Vince Camuto
c Wolverine
c Gigi Hadid x
c XTC on Melrose
c Stuart Weitzman
c Rocky
c Frye
c Timberland Pro
Stuart Weitzman
c Rihanna x Manolo Blahnik
c Shoegasm
c Clementines
c Cinderella x
ATHLETIC LIFESTYLE
SANDALS
c New Balance
c Birkenstock
Irregular Choice
SNEAKER BOUTIQUE
c Vans
c Spring Step
BEST SNEAKER COLLAB
c Wish
c Adidas Originals
c Naot
c Rihanna x Puma
c Bodega
c Kith
c Riccardo Tisci x Nike
ATHLEISURE
OUTDOOR STYLE
c Skechers
c Pikolinos
c Adidas
c Sorel
c Nike
c Ugg
c Kanye West x
Adidas Originals
CHILDRENS
c Sole Desire
c Keen
c Littles Shoes
c Skechers
c Under Armour
c Adidas
COMFORT SPECIALTY
c Schuler Shoes
c Jambu
BRAND OF THE YEAR
c Birkenstock
Easy Picking
$870,000 in scholarships
given to footwear families,
each year.
Application Opens Dec. 1st
Higher Education Footwear Design Footwear Warriors Scholarship NSRA Scholarship NST Scholarship
www.twoten.org/scholarships TwoTen@applyists.com 855.670.ISTS
Come And Experience Earth

At These Upcoming Shows:
November 30 - December 2, FFANY,
Warwick Hotel, Suite 2121
January 10 - 12, Outdoor Retailer,
Salt Palace Convention Center
February 11 - 13, Atlanta Shoe Market,
Cobb Galleria Centre
February 21 - 23, FN Platform,
Las Vegas Convention Center
Style Featured: Earth Virgo
earthshoes.com
D E C E M B E R
2 0 1 6
Caroline Diaco
Publisher
Greg Dutter
Editorial Director
Nancy Campbell
Trevett McCandliss
Creative Directors
EDITORIAL
Ann Loynd
Fashion Editor
Emily Beckman
Associate Editor
Kathy Passero
Editor at Large
Melodie Jeng
Contributing Photographer
D E P A R T M E N T S
8 Editors Note
10 This Just In
12 Scene & Heard
14 A Note to My Younger Self
30 Whats Selling
34 Trend Spotting
46 Shoe Salon
48 Comfort
52 Last Word
Judy Leand
Contributing Editor
ADVERTISING/
PRODUCTION
Jennifer Craig
Associate Publisher
Katie Belloff
Associate Art Director
Production Manager
Allison Kastner
Operations Manager
Bruce Sprague
Circulation Director
Mike Hoff
Digital Director
On the cover: Embroidered heels by

Chinese Laundry.
PA G E
36
Photography by Bill Phelps/We Are

Casey Agency. Fashion Editor: Ann
Loynd; hair and makeup: Angelia
Guthrie; model: Mattea B./Ignite
Models; retouching: Hunny Digital.
This page: Dee Keller gold metallic
block heel.
F E A T U R E S
16 Smart Money
How the Two Ten Footwear Foundation Scholarship
Program is providing support, opprtunity and hope across
the industry spectrum. By Greg Duttter
20 Change Agent
Philippe Meynard, CEO and president of Earth Shoes, on
the changes being implemented company wide and why the
needs of independent retailers are a focus. By Greg Dutter
24 Star Power
OFFICES
Advertising/Editorial
135 W. 20th St., Suite 402
New York, NY 10011
Tel: (646) 278-1550
Fax: (646) 278-1553
editorialrequests@
9Threads.com
Circulation
26202 Detroit Road, #300
Westlake, OH 44145
Tel: (440) 871-1300
circulation@9Threads.com
era NBA stars, 80s b-boys and current A-list fashionistas, and thus
its place in the Footwear Plus Style Hall of Fame. By Ann Loynd
Corporate
9Threads
26202 Detroit Road, #300
Westlake, OH 44145
Tel: (440) 871-1300
26 The Sundowner Also Rises

For more than 3o years, the Vasque Sundowner boot has been
Xen Zapis
Chairman
a top seller on store shelves and worthy of induction into the

Footwear Plus Style Hall of Fame. By Ann Loynd
Lee Zapis
President
The iconic Adidas Superstar has found prominence among 70s-
36 Heel Thyself
Statement shapes and intricate details build style from the
ground up. By Ann Loynd
FOOTWEAR PLUS (ISSN#1054-898X) The fashion magazine of the footwear industry is published monthly (except for bimonthly April/May and October/November editions) by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th fl., New York, NY,
10003-7118. The publishers of this magazine do not accept responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, NY, and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year:
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Rich Bongorno
Chief Financial Officer
Debbie Grim
Controller
E D I TO R S N OT E
Roads to Success
HEAVE-HO THE STATUS QUO

UNPRECEDENTED. BEFUDDLING.
TERRIFYING. Stunning. Disruptive. Ugly.
Revolutionary. Deplorable. Unpredictable.
Bat crap crazy
No, Im not rehashing reactions to the
presidential election. (Politics have no place
in public columns these days, unless alienating 50 percent of your audience seems like
a smart decision.) These adjectives, rather,
are just some of the colorful, blunt and fitfor-print assessments Ive heard about life in the retail trenches over
the past year. Newsflash: Business has been really tough, unforgiving and incredibly unpredictable. Flat is the new up. Bankruptcy
is the new black. And the new normal is
abnormal. This year may go down as one
of the most challenging and transformative ones in memorythat is until we see
what next year brings.
Did this very bad year really kick into
gear last fall when a Godzilla-like El Nio
turned much of December into a remake of
Endless Summer, the retail horror version?
Some say all that hot air blowing across
the country was the tipping point for the
great retail shakeout of 2016. Others dismiss that theory is a bunch of hot airor
a smokescreen. They believe much deeper
fundamental problems finally shook many
brick-and-mortar retailers to their core.
The endless election. A (too) slow-growth
economy. A scared, angry and depressed consumer base (thanks,
in part, to that negative and divisive election). Fears of terrorism
and terrorist acts in malls. Racial unrest. Rising fixed costs (notably healthcare insurance). An ongoing Millennial-led macro shift
to e-commerce. Too many stores and, for far too long, an unsustainable growth model, which was bound to become a collapsing
house of cards. Those are several root causes that pundits have
citedand that have gathered into a perfect storm.
Surely, there are other factorslike changing weather patterns. How many warm falls in a row does it take to rethink a
seasonal buying plan? At the very least, a shift toward smaller
and perhaps staggered deliveries seems like a safer strategy as
consumers increasingly buy when they need and not in advance.
Rolling out sweaters, gloves, scarves, boots, etc. in August and
then marking the (now stale) merchandise in another warm

October and November Why not squeeze the most out of
the season outside rather than try to force the issue? (Think
Halloween displays the day after Labor Day.) It contributes to
premature seasonal affective disorder. Why not embrace the season you spent months preparing for and maximize margins as
best you can? Besides, if the Internet has conditioned consumers to do anything, its to buy when they need somethingand
have it shipped overnight for free.
Social medias influence on fashion trends is another factor
shaking things up this year. The lightning speed at which trends
go viraland often disappearis causing supply chain management practices to be reimagined. It was only last February when
the biggest buzz coming out of New York
Fashion Week wasnt the styles featured
on the runways but the fact that several
designers made their collections immediately available to consumers, turning
buy now/wear now and direct-to-consumer into industry touchstones. It was
also an early warning sign that 2016 was
going to be no ordinary year. The status
quo was being put on notice. (Side note:
When the hype surrounding New York
Fashion Week was more about how goods
were being introduced to the market than
about the actual goods, it was a bad sign
for the year ahead.)
Surely 2016 will be remembered as the
year many big-name retailers went down
for the count. Equally memorable will be how many other stores
finally admitted that business as usual was no longer an option.
This is the year the status quo got the heave-hoand that applies to
politics, sports (think Chicago Cubs), retail, social norms, fashion
the list goes on. Around the world, people have headed toward the
exit, seemingly tired of the roads they have been traveling for too
long. No one knows if these detours will lead to more dead ends or
promised lands. That can seem befuddling, terrifying and unpredictable. But embarking on a new path also generates a sense of
optimism. The ability of our industry, specifically, to change course
and find a new way forward has always been our greatest asset and
our secret to surviving. The road ahead will surely have twists, potholes, traffic jams, wrecks and casualties, but heading in a new
direction sure beats driving in endless circles.
Greg Dutter
Editorial Director
8 footwearplusmagazine.com december 2016
www.gabor.de
Purveyors of luxury European comfort footwear
Tel: (800) 361-3466 - info@kannercorp.net
THIS JUST IN
TO BE IN TBILISI
East meets West in Georgias capital city crossroads, where

sporty, punk and chic looks prove style barriers are wide open.
Photography by Melodie Jeng
RestrictedShoes.com
.. ......
SCENE & HEARD
Earlier OR dates: Yay or Nay?

OUTDOOR RETAILER (OR ) show announced, beginning in 2018, that
its biannual Winter and Summer markets held in Salt Lake City, UT, will
shift from January and August to November and June, respectively. The
decision is intended to better time with buyers ordering schedules as well
as align with the specialty outdoor show, Grassroots Outdoor Alliance,
that will be held a few days prior to the OR markets in nearby Sandy, UT.
The overall consensus was that Outdoor Retailer, the national show
for the outdoor industry, needed to be at the beginning of the buy/sell
cycle in order to provide retailers an opportunity to see the entire breadth
of what the industry had to offer, allowing them to be informed as they
approach their buying decisions, says Marisa Nicholson, ORs vice president and show director.
Nicholson reports that decision followed extensive industry discussions
with key specialty retailers, reps, execs from cornerstone exhibitors and
advisory panels. We also worked with a research firm to talk to retailers,
exhibitors and reps whove attended Outdoor Retailer between 2013 and
2016, she says.
As for whether footwear exhibitors were surveyed and, more importantly,
if the earlier dates are okay, it depends which ones you ask. The outdoor
performance brands are likely to be on board with the shift in dates. The
further a brand sits on the lifestyle spectrum, the less pleased they are.
It will impact our ability to get the samples as far along as wed like, but
well be able to accommodate the date change, says Christian Mason, sales
manager for Oboz. That said, Mason believes the shift will be good for OR
and thus good for Oboz. OR had become more of a marketing-oriented
show, he says. By moving the dates earlier, OR will become the show.
Bryan Owen, sales manager for Astral, is also pro earlier dates. Itll
be good for selling because OR will probably become more of an order
writing show than its been in the past, he says. It also helps us a great
deal as we can plan our production earlier than we have in the past.
For other brands, however, its just too earlyparticularly the November
time frameto meet production schedules. Many such lifestyle and comfort brands are pressed to make the FFANY shows in the beginning of
December and June when they introduce their collections to major retailers.
Its not good for us, says David Kahan, CEO of Birkenstock Americas.
We will have to use FN Platform as more of a showcase and hope that
show can help deliver more outdoor lifestyle retailers whose buy- >51
Tamaris USA INC. 4767 New Broad Street, Orlando, FL 32814 office (407) 514 2734 theschuh@tamaris.us theschuh.com
AMERICAN
DREAM
Joe Ouaknine, CEO
of Titan Industries,
reflects on a fast-paced
career and the
wonderful people
and amazing places
he has encountered
along the way.
WHO WOULD HAVE thought

youd ever visit the USA? As a child
growing up in Casablanca, Morocco, this
was unthinkable. Becoming a U.S. citizen?
No way! Becoming a business owner in the
USA? Impossible!!
How does it all happen? How do you end up
in the shoe businessthis amazing industry
where you meet so many wonderful friends?
Well, you discover it yourself. After moving
from Morocco to Montreal to attend high
school, you are not yet very familiar with the
English language. So your aunt Rgine, head
pedicure of the Bata flagship store, suggests
you get a part-time job there to earn a little
money and improve your English. The first sale
you ever make earns you a $2 tip. You quickly
learn, however, that this is not the normthat
tip is a one-time occurrence.
You soon discover that the shoe business is
your destiny. But first you pursue your dream
of becoming a professional athlete. After graduating college, you change your name from
Jojo to Joe and move to Los Angeles to start
your soccer career as a goalkeeper. That doesnt
last long. The league folds. All you know is the
shoe business. So here you come.
After a short stint working in retail, you
meet Charles Amar at a Christmas dinner in
Montreal, of all places, and he introduces you
to his father-in-law, Dave Malka, co-owner of
Charles David. You join the companys sales
team, and things really pick up when Guess
becomes a part of the portfolio. You thank
your lucky stars, act as honorably as a man
can and help grow the businesses, eventually
becoming the companys first vice president
of sales. Over 13 years, you help build both
into worldwide brands.
Your good reputation takes you a long way.
In 1996, with the industry talents and connections you have made, you launch your
own company. Two years later, you become
co-founder of Titan Industries, a fashion
house of primarily womens brandsthe first
of which is Bebe. Over the ensuing decades,
you introduce an array of licensed fashion
brands to the marketplace.

Your business philosophy is simple.
Punctuality is important. If someone is late
to a meeting, its canceled. No exceptions. If
someone flakes on anything, you lose respect
for them. You also hate contracts. A handshake is more important to you. People who
know you will attest: If you give your word,
consider it done. That is what you are most
proud of.
You are also blessed to have a beautiful
family and enjoy a great life. The game of
golf, in particular, opens many new horizons. You meet so many people and discover
many wonderful places. You also help a lot
of people. You are introduced to the Two Ten
Footwear Foundation and meet more amazing, charitable people. Your taste for philanthropy expands. You are even honored by the
organization (with the A.A. Bloom Award in
recognition of individuals who provided tremendous support to the non-profit) in 2013,
and you learn how it feels to be popular. People
from many countries come to the event in support of you. Good opportunities multiply and
continue to come your way.
Despite working tirelessly, traveling around
the world endlessly and keeping up with the
crazy pace of the shoe business, you somehow always feel young. But the arrival of your
grandson [James] gives you a reality check.
Time is fleeting, and spending it with family is precious.
Still, your life is just starting. You have so
many more things to accomplish and so many
more wonderful people to meet and places
to discover. There are still so many business
opportunities. Dont slow down, Joe. Your
hectic pace is what drives you. Those sleepless
nights are a part of you. The constant laughs
should always be with you, too. Out of each
hour, five minutes of seriousness is all you
need. Enjoy the other 55 minutes.
Get ready, because you will need to allocate
time to spend with James soon. Soccer practices are just around the corner. Time goes by
so fast. But, please, dont ever slow down.
C A L L I G R A P H Y B Y K AT I E B E L L O F F
A N O T E T O M Y YO U N G E R S E L F
SMART MONEY
Dedicated to doing the right thing, the
Two Ten Footwear Foundation Scholarship Program
provides financial as well as intellectual
assistance to industry members and their families
seeking higher education.
By Greg Dutter
VER THE PAST decades, the Two Ten Footwear

Foundation Scholarship Program has awarded millions of dollars to thousands of industry members and their
families in need of financial assistance for higher education. Many of those recipientsoften the first in their
families to attend collegewent on to complete their degrees and embark on productive careers in their chosen
fields. In their cases, the scholarship program proved a resounding success. But what about the recipients who,
for one reason or another, failed to complete their education? Could protocols have been put in place to provide
financial and/or intellectual support that would have helped them finish school? After all, awarding scholarship
funds is only half the battle. The real ROI comes from college diplomas.
Such is the premise guiding Two Ten Footwear Foundation
President Neal Newman of late when it comes to scholarship
efforts. The approach marks a sharp contrast to the organizations
past method. Over the last couple of years, weve discovered
that it has to be more than just raising money and providing
scholarships, Newman says. We dont want it to be just about
giving a check. We are now viewing the scholarship programs
success as: Do they finish their degree?
Before Newmans arrival in 2012, Two Ten had never
explored the reasons students dropped out. When they did,
they found that one negative event often prompted a scholar
to leave school. It was usually one bad class, bad experience
at home or bad problem at work that caused our students to
stop going to school, especially those who were attending
part-time, Newman notes. So, while we have to keep raising more money, on the other side of the ledger; we have
to provide more personalized support and services to our
Two Ten President

Neal Newman
Two Ten Education

Committee Chairperson
Debbie Ferre
applicants and scholars so that they remain in school.

To help with that effort, Two Ten has enlisted childcare services provider Bright Horizons, purchasing its College Coach
program, which provides advice to families on how to structure
a financial plan. (The service is available to non-applicants as
well.) It also offers personalized support for students trying to
piece together work-study programs designed to make college
affordable. Well be using College Coach to run webinars for
parents who are starting to explore the possibility of college for
their children, Newman says. They might be parents of sophomores or juniors facing this financial morass for the first time,
and this will assist them in developing a plan. Newman adds
that Liz Watson, scholarship program manager, will serve as Two
Tens point person to develop relationships with award recipients,
especially first-year students, to ensure that they are transitioning
well to college. College is a completely new environment, and
many dont have role models within their households, so we are
going to connect them with mentors, Newman explains. Liz is

on hand to support them through the first year.
GOOD GRADES
Two Tens efforts to help scholarship recipients stay in school
are already paying strong dividends, Newman reports. This
year, of the 300 who were awarded scholarships, 208 were
renewals. That marks an increase from last years 168 renewals. Of course, it also means that competition for the remaining spots is tougher than ever. Applicants are through the
roof, Newman says, noting that approximately 1,500 people
started the application process, and of the 315 finalists, 92 were
selected. That is the largest number of applicants weve had
since I arrived, he says. Its becoming highly competitive to
get a Two Ten scholarship.
Two Ten makes every effort to choose those recipients whose
need for financial assistance is most dire, Newman says. In fact,
70 percent of each award is weighted toward financial need, also
known as Effective Family Contribution (EFC). The remainder
is equally divided between academic performance and the narrative applicants write about what they aspire to achieve in life.
Were trying to make sure that every applicant who reaches
the final stage with a zero EFC scoremeaning that the family
cant contribute a dollar to their tuitionearns a scholarship,
Newman says, noting that determination is based on the same
financial metrics many colleges use. Weve achieved that goal
the last couple of years, he adds. Specifically, 40 percent of
Two Tens scholarship recipients have a zero EFC rating and
another 20 percent have EFCs of under $3,000. That means
60 percent of our scholarship winners families were able to
contribute $3,000 or less to their childs tuition, Newman says.
These are people who desperately need the financial support.
The need for financial assistance is expected to increase in
the coming yearsjust like the cost of tuition. Its one of the
reasons Two Ten is hoping to raise its annual award from $3,000
to $3,500 per student beginning next year. If our scholarship
budget grows to $1 million, we hope to be able to make that
increase, Newman reports. While were probably never going
to trend higher than the inflation increases to college costs, its
a meaningful amount that we are comfortable giving, he adds.
Newman credits Debbie Ferre, chairwoman of Two Tens
Education Committee and chief merchandising officer of
DSW, for leading the charge to raise the programs profile and
number of contributions. The scholarship budget this year
was $870,000, which represents a growth of $140,000 from
2013. Debbies been quite keen to grow the profile of scholarships within Two Ten, and shes done a brilliant job over the
last couple of years, Newman says. Through her magnetism,
a number of individuals have made financial contributions as
well as intellectual ones.
Ferre, who once considered teaching as a profession, is
passionate about education. Statistically, its proven that a
college degree results in higher employment rates and better
compensation, she says. But Ferre is also acutely aware that
the opportunity is becoming increasingly difficult because
state and federal funding is not increasing at the same rate as
tuition, so financial aid packages arent providing the support
students need. This is especially true in shoe retailing, where,
Ferre notes, there are periodic struggles between lower sales
and shortened hours. Our community needs the opportunity
STAR STUDENTS
M e e t t h e 2 0 1 6 Tw o Te n F o o t w e a r F o u n d a t i o n /
Fo o t w e a r P l u s I n d e p e n d e n t R e t a i l e r S c h o l a r s h i p
recipients. G.D.
Victoria McFarland, 18, Lakeland, FL

Attends: University of Central Florida
Major: Biology
Victoria McFarland, who aims to become a
physicians assistant after completing her
undergraduate and graduate studies, is honored to be a Two Ten/Footwear Plus scholarship recipient. Her familythird generation
independent shoe retailers own and operate McFarlands Shoe Repair in Lakeland, FL.
My parents are self-employed and, as the
child of small business owners, this scholarship will be a huge help to my family,
McFarland says. She credits watching her
parents dedication to keeping the business
thriving as having prepared her well for college and beyond. My parents example has
shown me that no matter what I am going
through to always strive to be the best at
whatever I do in life, she says.
Case in point: In 2004, her hometown was
hit by three storms wielding hurricane-force
winds. One of the storms caused a tree to
crash through the roof of the familys home,
also causing part of the shopping center that
was home to McFarlands Shoe Repair to fall
into a sinkhole. Our store was closed for a
couple of weeks, McFarland recalls. The loss
of income and the expense of home repairs
put a huge strain on our familys finances.
But the footwear industry rallied to help.
Soon after, my father started receiving
checks from people all over the country, she
says. We were so thankful to the shoe repair
community who had heard of our situation
and banded together to help!
Likewise, McFarland is thankful of the
support of Two Ten in helping her earn her
degree and pursue her career dreams. This
would not be possible without the generous
support from scholarship sponsors like Two
Ten, she says. Thank you so much for giving me this opportunity!
Elizabeth Ardovino, 21,

Hoover, AL
Attends: University of Alabama
at Birmingham
Major: Healthcare
Administration
Once Elizabeth Ardovino completes her bachelors degree
in Healthcare Management,
she plans to immediately start
working in the field. I am very
excited about the path I have
chosen, she says. Healthcare
management is advancing
more rapidly than almost any
field, and there are so many different settings one can choose
with this major.
Ardovinos plan is to start
working in either marketing
and public affairs, medical staff
relations or material management. I hope to gain a great
amount of experience in these
areas and then go back to
UAB to receive my Masters
degree, hopefully advancing to
higher positions in physicians
practices or healthcare associations, she says.
Ardovino, whose father
works for Upsidedown Shoe
Repair in Homewood, AL, is
grateful to Two Ten for the
assistance it is providing her
toward completing her degree.
Being in the footwear community has impacted my life in
many ways, she says. Growing
up, I have watched my father
and how dedicated he is to his
job. It has inspired me to be just
as dedicated in my work.
2016 december footwearplusmagazine.com 17
to attain a degree, she says. The Two Ten

Scholarship Program helps fill the gap that
financial aid no longer covers, allowing our
community to further their education. We
are helping fellow shoepeople succeed in a
world where a college degree is necessary.
many of them are actually working in the

industry and potentially in need of financial
assistance. They are most vulnerable to a
potential loss of hours or a health issue and,
before they know it, school books have to be
bought, transportation costs must be met,
and soon they are one paycheck away from
MOM-AND-POP SCHOLARS
having to drop out of school, he explains.
The effort to spread the word about Two These are the folks we really want to try and
Tens Scholarship Program includes a focus focus on. So far, so good: 25 percent of the
on independent retailersmany of which past three years scholarship recipients have
are small businesses and most vulnerable to been footwear industry employees.
the changing tides of the economy, accordNewman plans to expand additional special
ing to Newman. Many of these employees stakeholder scholarships as well. One is the
are struggling to make ends meet and in Footwear Warriors scholarship for military
need of financial assistance when it comes veterans. Weve capitalized that fund at
to higher education costs. Its a key reason almost $500,000, and we want to increase
why Two Ten has once again partnered with it considerably because a large number of
Footwear Plus on sponsoring
veterans have returned to
its Independent Retailer
footwear jobs from active
Scholarship Awards. We
service, he says. There are
Having an
think Footwear Plus is a
to five Footwear Warrior
independent retailer up
wonderful conduit to let
scholarship recipients
partnership
those retailers know that
annually and Newman
this scholarship opportu- (with Footwear Plus)
hopes to double in the next
nity is available to them,
couple of years. Similarly,
is a key way to
Newman says. Progress has
he plans to expand design
provide scholarship schoolspecific scholaralready been made. Two
years ago, two percent of our
money to everyone ships aimed at students
scholarship winners came
attending traditional
in the industry.
from the independent tier.
four-year programs like
Debbie Ferre
Now were at 10 percent,
at the Fashion Institute
and I would like to see it
of Technology (FIT) and
churn up to 20 percent
Savannah College of Art
soon. That goal, Newman
and Design as well as
adds, is a reflection of the tiers 20 percent shorter-length programs offered by Pensole
portion of overall industry sales.
Footwear Design Academy and Arsutoria
Beyond that, Newman believes that for School. Last but not least, Newman says
too long independent retailers have been Two Ten has created an emergency pop-up
underrepresented in Two Ten. We want to programthe Text Book Funddesigned to
make sure independent retailers know that help recipients stay in school. If something
Two Ten is as available to them as we are to unexpected happenssay, a students car
the Wolverines of our world, he says. We needs to go into the shop or theyve lost
are here to serve truck drivers, retail staffs, their part-time jobwe can give them up to
distribution center employeesyou name $200 of additional funding that goes toward
it. Similarly, this years four independent paying for books, he says.
retailer scholarship recipients (see side bar)
Two Tens commitment to helping members
have been selected from across the country, of the footwear industry stems from the belief
reflecting a push by Newman to expand Two that higher education benefits not just the
Ten beyond its Northeast roots.
individual and their family, but the footwear
Two Ten supports the entire footwear industry as a whole because it helps upgrade
industry, Ferre concurs. Having an inde- and retain talent. We want to create a climate
pendent retailer partnership is a key way to where folks consider footwear as a career and,
provide our scholarship money to everyone with that, there are opportunities to go back
in the industry, and knowing we were able to school and grow their educational profile,
to help four families in need is the reason Newman says. Its about planting a seed and
why the program exists.
encouraging higher education, both from
Newman believes independent retailers are individual and macro-industry levels. That
a good fit for the scholarship program because strengthens everybodys profile.
Casey Ells, 19, Spofford, NH

Attends: NHTI-Concords Community College
Major: Dental Hygienist
Casey Ells is already a seasoned
veteran of the footwear industry, having gotten her start
during her freshman year of
high school in her hometowns
Howards Leather Store. The
first day on the job she admits to being terrified. I
had never had a job before, and I was younger than
the other employees by a few years, she recalls. I
got a tour from the owner and became even more
nervous, knowing there were so many things to
memorizewhich jackets run a little larger, which
shoes are better for people with foot problemsthe
list went on and on.
Ells eventually overcame her fear of being asked
a question by a customer that she didnt know the
answer to by putting to memory many footwear
specifics. Equally important, she learned that it
was ok not to be an expert on everything and ask
questions to find the answers. I learned to love my
job, Ells says. I looked forward to coming in and
interacting with customers, as well as answering the
questions which used to cause me stress.
Ells shoe store experience also sparked her desire
to work in a field that involves interaction with lots
of people and making them happy. Thus her decision to become a dental hygienist that makes people
feel good about smiling. Knowing what I want to
do with my life made planning for my future so
much easier, she says. I know this thanks to being a
member of the footwear community.
Kaylee Croft, 19, Houston, TX

Attends: University of Kansas
Major: Pharmacy
Kaylee Croft, who plans to enter the pharmaceuticals
profession after graduation, is another shoe industry
veteran. She grew up in the business, pitching in
when needed at her parents For Your Toes & Feet
business, a two-store comfort specialty operation.
I worked with my parents many times when
extra help was needed in their store, she says. I
was able to learn how to interact with customers,
how to deal with vendors and how to manage a
business.
Croft believes having been able to learn these
skills at such a young age will definitely prepare her
for her future career in the pharmaceuticals field.
It has provided me with excellent general life skills,
too, she says.
12_16_two_ten_01.indd 18
11/29/16 12:14 PM
Make a statement.
The Rockport Company, LLC. All rights reserved.
Outdoor Retailer I Atlanta Shoe Market I FN PLATFORM

For appointments please contact your sales representative or email: sales@rockport.com
Change
Agent
Philippe Meynard, CEO and president of Earth Shoes,
is ushering in a slew of changes in an effort to adapt the company
amid a retail shakeout for the ages.
BY GREG DUTTER
TS BEEN A year of epic changes in the

worlds of retail, sports and politics. The
closure of hundreds of brick-and-mortar
stores as consumers increasingly shift to
e-commerce represents transformative
change. The Chicago Cubs breaking a 108-year
curse to win the World Series was a miraculous
change. And the election of Donald J. Trump as
president of the United States was nothing short of
a stunning change in the nations political direction.
The past year for Earth Shoes was also marked
by expected and unexpected change, which got
rolling last December when the company moved
into state-of-the-art headquarters in Waltham,
MA. In addition to the new digs, the company
changed its name from Earth Brands to the more
familiar Earth Shoes, closed its e-commerce site
PlanetShoes.com, saw Gary Champion (company
president for the past six years) depart in February,
went through two replacements before finding
the right fit in-house with Jeff Herrick (as vice
president of sales and merchandising), launched
a new Canadian subsidiary and opened a state-ofthe-art samples room in its China offices. At the
same time, Meynard and his partnersexecutive
vice president Angelo Romero and COO Celso
Kieferutilized their collective 100-plus years of
industry experience to begin implementing a series
of fundamental changes in how the company runs.
The changes, by and large, have been positive
even the unexpected ones, according to Meynard,
who grew up in the familys shoe business where,
as a kid, many of his basement toys were shoes.
The unexpected change at the top allowed us
to really get into the guts of the company and
restructure so that we can continue on our strong
growth curve, he says. The management team,
shoes experience between the three of us. We know

what were doing. he says. He also takes great comfort in the experience of his team, which includes
veteran Beth Bartholomew as senior director of
sales development and recent hires Matt Itzkowitz
to lead the companys second-tier Earth Origins
division as well as Marc Lambert, former VP of
sales of Clarks $100 million subsidiary in Canada,
to assume similar responsibilities at Earth Shoes.
We have an amazing team in place and we keep
building upon it, Meynard says, noting that several
people have recently joined the design department,
which will enable the company to better individualize looks between the brands. In addition, the
PlanetShoes teammuch of it Millennial-aged
and highly e-commerce experiencedhas assumed
responsibility for the soon-to-be revamped Earth
Shoes e-commerce site.
Philippe Meynard
for example, is now set up to divide and conquer.

Meynard, specifically, is more involved in overall
operations, while Romero and Kiefer have stepped
up their respective roles. Romero, in particular,
is a highly regarded designer. Angelos track
record has been stellar over the years, Meynard
confirms. We certainly attribute much of our
companys growth to his dedication, consistency
and work ethic.
Earth Shoes has all the talent it needs for continued success in-house, Meynard adds. We had
to remind ourselves that theres over 100 years of
CHANGE IS (REALLY) GOOD

Amid all these changes, Earth Shoes reported
record sales growth and is on pace to blow those
figures out of the water in 2017. Meynard says
sales are already up 40 percent for next year, and
100 percent in the independent channel. Not
too shabby in a year when flat is considered the
new up and many companies have struggled to
survive during one of the greatest retail shakeouts
in recent history.
We can certainly brag, Meynard confirms.
Our company is on a very nice growth curve. Its
been absolutely a wonderful year.
Did Meynard envision a year of such dramatic
change last December, when employees were
settling into new offices during unseasonably
balmy temperatures? The short answer: I did.
But his foresight didnt include executive-level
FW_12_16_Earth_2.indd 20
12/6/16 1:01 PM
departures or a rash of store closings that would

follow the record warm fall. What Meynard saw
coming, rather, had been written on his wall since
2014, when he first wanted to close PlanetShoes.
(The passing of his father, company founder
Michel Meynard, in the fall of 2013 had put it
on the back burner.) I realized then that our
business model was not sustainable, he says.
We couldnt get discounts from the brands that
the big e-commerce players did. We couldnt
get brands to sell us exclusives. We carried the
same shoes as many other big retailers. And we
couldnt get shipping companies to give us the
same discounts. How could we win?
Meynard saw this dilemma as a microcosm
of an industry-wide epidemic. Namely, the over
duplication of merchandise sold online. Likening
the Internet to a massive Main Street, he says
brands have made a mistake by eschewing a local
Main Street approach of selling a variety of styles to
different retailers. The result is massive sameness,
with low prices governing buying decisions. Ive
come to the conclusion that brands have been a
large factor in this 2016 retail shakeout because of
the over duplication online, he says, noting that
rising fixed overhead costs have also contributed
to the rash of store closings. The warm fall might
have been a tiny piece that tipped some over the
edge, but this was something that has been coming
around the corner long before that.
Meynard believes this has to changebefore its
too late. Independents, in particular, are feeling
the negative effects. They have been just getting
destroyed by whats happening, he says. And even
though the tier accounts for only a small portion
of overall sales, he believes its demise would have
far-reaching negative consequences for the entire
industry. If we let the independents die off, we
are going to end up making the same shoes for
the same behemoths at the same prices, he warns.
Eventually, its just going to be whoever has the
deepest pockets survives. I think, as an industry,
we have to take a very close look at trying to avoid
that possible outcome.
INDEPENDENTS DAY
So whats a shoe executive to do? Let e-commerce
take its natural scorched earth course and hope
to survive? Earth Shoes has taken the opposite
approach, doubling down on supporting its independent retailer base. It starts with the company
working on developing exclusive goods for those
retailers to help them compete with large online
players. They have to have some kind of exclusivity so that when customers go into one of those
stores and discover a great shoe, they then cant
immediately look online and find the same exact
shoe, Meynard explains, unless they find it on
that stores site, not on Amazon. Earth Shoes
website is also being revamped to promote its
independent retail partners by directing customer

traffic to them.
In addition to exclusive products, Meynard says
its independent base is getting extra attention across
the boardincluding regular in-store visits by its
sales team as well as devoting 60 percent of its
overall resources to build stronger relationships.
In the short term, he believes it will help them
weather the shakeout and, longer term, make
these stores lifestyle destinations where selection
and service is unmatched. We want to make sure
independent retailers come first because those
guys are the future of the industry, he says.
While such efforts make Earth Shoes a pioneer,
Meynard is encouraged by other brands recent
decisions to clean up their online distribution,
too. I think people are awakening to the need, he
says. He shrugs off fears about potential pushback
Earths Daylily laser-cut
wedge booties raise the bar
on comfort with style.
from larger retailers, noting that Earthies, Earth

and Earth Origins divisions are already tiered from
high end to independent to mass distribution,
respectively. Beyond that, he believes supporting
experienced buyers in an e-commerce age where
many just buy the entire line is a skill worth trying
to preserve. Real shoe knowledge is disappearing,
and if independents go away entirely its going to
become like selling toilet paperabout the price
and little else, he says.
FUTURE TENSE
Despite consolidation fears, Meynard remains
optimistic about the future of Earth Shoes and the
industry as a whole. He believes the shakeout that
kicked into high gear this year is a wake-up call.
We may be at the abyss, but we havent fallen in
yet. I think 2016 has been the tipping point and
some brands are finally awakening to it, he says.
Im extremely optimistic. I think we are going to
see meaningful change because we need to think
about our future. And the future of any brand is
retail. If we dont think about proper retailing, we
are just digging our own graves.

In the immediate future, however, Meynard
expects business to remain challenging. The presidential election is finally over, but he believes the
shakeout of stores will continue. Its a big ship to
steer and not something that happens overnight,
he says. There will be more of a shakeout before
it gets better in the retail environment. But once
the industry works through it, he predicts the
environment will absolutely be healthier.
The brave new world that awaits will involve
advancements in lead times, shipping and manufacturing capabilities, Meynard forecasts. As
trends hit the market with increasing speeds and
shorter lifespans, the need to keep pace will be
even more critical. You have to be able to react
fast, he says. Fortunately, Earth Shoes is well
prepared with a solid infrastructure in place. We
set up our overseas offices over 25 years ago and
have built a manufacturing powerhouse with over
180 employees working in sample development,
product development, quality control, etc., he
says. All Earth Shoes sample development is
done in-houseno outside factories, third parties
or agents. Its a huge advantage, as many brands
struggle with those aspects. We can literally
send a sample request to our overseas facility on
a Friday and have that sample sitting in our office
on Monday in Waltham, Meynard states. We
can get product designed extremely efficiently
and rapidly.
Such capabilities are right in step with the buy
now/wear now movement at retail thats causing a
dramatic shift in how goods are delivered to market. Think smaller quantities and more frequent
deliveries. The days of shipping everything at once
are coming to an end, Meynard says.
Further down the road, Meynard envisions an
industry where artificial intelligence and robotics
will gain importance. While they wont replace
human intelligence and talent, he believes the
ability to crunch numbers will go beyond P&L
statements and actually enhance merchandising abilities that improve distribution. Robotics,
in particular, will usher in another great era of
change. It will allow us to do smaller quantities
of production and make exclusives for smallersized retailers, he says, noting it will also involve
improved 3D printing capabilities that will enable
brands to make 1,000 bottoms for a customer,
whereas todays minimums are far greater.
Above all, Meynard is excited by what the
future holds for Earth Shoes and the industry. In
the meantime, the ability to change, adapt and
always be prepared for the unknown will serve
the companys guiding philosophy. Theres real
excitement here with all of our recent changes
and the ones yet to come, he says. We are looking forward to what can be best described as a
renaissance.
s t y l e h a l l o f fa m e
A D I DA S S U P E R STA R
Star Power
They dont call it the Superstar for nothing:

The iconic Adidas trainer continually
cycles back into fashion, finding prominence
among 70s-era NBA players, 80s b-boys,
90s skaters and, most recently, A-list
fashionistas. By Ann Loynd
The original Adidas

Superstar.
THIRTY YEARS BEFORE the term athleisure had ever been uttered, rap group RunDMC released the single My Adidas as an ode
to their shoe of choice: the shell-toed Adidas
Superstar, which the trio rocked sans laces and
tongues puffed out in ultimate hip-hop flash and
attitude. It marked the Superstars second turn
in the spotlight, having been the choice of more
than 75 percent of NBA players during the previous decade following its launch in 1969. Back
then, Kareem Abdul-Jabbar heralded the Superstar for its more durable leather construction
(compared to flimsy canvas alternatives of the
era) as well as its comfort aspects. The shoethe
brainchild of Adidas founder Adi Dasslerfeatured a host of design breakthroughs at the time,
including Achilles padding, non-marking white
herringbone rubber outsoles and a rubber shell

toe to protect players feet.
Like most iconic sneakers, the Superstars original design was for performance and, as often is
the case, became a lifestyle staple in its off-court
life. The Superstar has been adopted by skaters,
thrashers and sneakerheads since its Run-DMC
star turn. And now its starring again as A-list
fashionistas sport its clean and classic aesthetic
in a world gone athleisure crazy.
Supermodel Gigi Hadid, in particular, got the
ball rolling when she began sporting the original
white with black stripes Superstars last year. Soon
after, reality star Kendell Jenner was trotting around
town in her latest athleisure ensembles anchored by
classic Superstars, and legions of Millennial-aged
women have been doing the same ever since. And
unlike the shoes previous popular runs that were

decidedly male-dominated cultures, the Superstars
current front row turn is part of a much bigger fashion scene. Women, as everyone in the shoe business knows, buy more shoes than mena lot more.
A lot of women who dont know too much about
sneakers in the first place are wearing them, confirms Vince Sirico, a contributor to the sneaker blog,
Modern Notoriety. Its become a part of fast fashion, he adds. Sirico says in addition to the styles
clean aesthetics, its price point is pretty attractive,
retailing for only $80.
Torben Schumacher, vice president product for
Adidas Originals, concurs that the Superstar has
reached new prominence in the fashion industry and is especially popular among a new generation of women. Schumacher believes that the
shoes sporting heritage gives it a credible voice

in street style. The Superstar sneaker is an icon
of the street because of its constant influence on
culture, he says. Its aesthetic makes a bold statement, and it is continuously reinventing itself.
WALK THIS WAY

Thats exactly what Run-DMC did when it adopted
Superstars as part of the group uniform along with
bucket hats, gold chains and track suits. What had
been a gym shoe instantly represented a whole
new lifestyle born on the streets of Queens, NY.
The bands music and fashion influence quickly
took the world by storm and, by the mid-80s,
the Superstarwith and without lacesbecame
a staple of b-boy culture. At a 1986 sold-out concert in Madison Square Garden, Run-DMC asked
fans to hold up their Superstars as they performed
the hit, My Adidas, off their bestselling album,
Raising Hell. Many sneaker experts consider that
very moment to be the birth of sneaker culture.
Run-DMC elevated the already-original model
into the hall-of-fame status it earned early on in
sneaker history, says Oliver Mak, co-owner of
Boston sneaker boutique, Bodega, quoting that
famous song: My Adidas do the illest things; we
like to stomp out pimps with diamond rings. The
song was in response to an anti-sneaker rap song,
Felon Sneakers. Run-DMCs ode to its Adidas
Superstars was an an attempt to flip the bad-boy
stereotype of b-boys.
Adidas embraced the Superstars pedestal in
hip-hop culture. The company went on to collaborate with the group to create the Ultrastar,
complete with an oversized Trefoil logo and elastic straps that celebrated the groups lace-free
preference. For the styles 35th anniversary, Adidas introduced a special Run-DMC style complete with the groups logo and the year 1986
emblazoned on the heel. Run-DMC helped people realize sneakers are not just for sport but also
for style, says Yu-Ming Wu, founder of the blogs
Freshness Mag and Sneaker News. Thats what
Run-DMC did for the Superstar.
Run-DMC collaborations spawned additional
Superstar design partnerships over the years. Many
became must-haves of sneakerheads and collectors the world over. Wu, for example, recalls traveling to San Francisco in 2003 with a business
partner when they got wind that the much-anticipated Superstar collaboration with A Bathing Ape
would go on sale at a store nearby. They snagged
pairs after waiting only 15 minutesa nanosecond by most sneaker drop standards. People
waited outside for 72 hours at the Adidas

Originals store in SoHo for that shoe, Wu
recalls. We lucked out. The Superstar,
Wu adds, has been a driving force behind
sneaker culture for years. I love its historical aspect, and obviously its
a great looking shoe, he
says. As for that A Bathing Ape collab he bought,
its a memory that Wu holds
ontoliterallyto this day.
Every once in a while I wear
those Superstars, he says.
It brings back some really
good memories.
The same can be said for
millions of Gen-Xers who
grew up listening to grunge
music, playing alternative
sports and wearing Superstars. Back in the 90s, the
shoe had once again been reinvented, having been adopted
by skateboarders who discovered that its outsoles were
ideal for helping perform flip
tricks. Adidas dubbed it the flip trick evolution.
Superstars quickly became a staple in skateboarding videos, and the company was again quick to
get on board, signing pro skater Mark Gonzales
to its Adidas skate team.
Around this time, Superstars were also being
worn by heavy metal fans, becoming part of the
ensemble that included oversized pants, wallet
chains and Mohawks. Mak attests to the shoes
popularity in the 90s hardcore scene, remembering, You saw a lot of Superstars in the pit.
As the new century dawned, the rise of classic
athletic styling enabled the Superstar to retain its
relevance. Retro athletic has become as important
a category as performance. Generations of consumers who grew up wearing Superstars re-up on
their fave regularly while younger consumers discover the shoe for the first time thanks, in part,
to a steady stream of collabs with leading sneaker
boutiques as well as musicians like Pharrell Williams (Supercolor and Supershell collections) and
Rita Oras pop artinspired collection.
MONEY IN THE BANK

Such brand extensions and reinventions have
made the Superstar a retail gold mine, particularly of late. Adidas has yet to release figures for
2016, but the company reports sales of the >32
From top:
Pharrell Williams
and his
Supercolor
Superstar
collab;
Run-DMC
sporting
Superstars;
Rita Oras
collab.
VA S Q U E S U N D OW N E R
The Sundowner
Also Rises
Over the past three decades,

Vasques Sundowner boot has
achieved legendary status
among avid hikers and weekend
warriors alike for its timeless
styling, unfailing durability
and reliable versatility.
By Ann Loynd
HIKING ENTHUSIASTS ARE a loyal bunch.

Whenever they discover a boot, a backpack or an
energy bar that performs up to snuff, they stick with
it season after season. Design elements involving
reliability, comfort, protection and durability usually trump aesthetics because style means squat if
you happen to be miles into a hike and your feet
are blistering. But its those rare occasions when
such performance boots also deliver the goods on
style. The Sundowner by Vasque is one such boot.
Millions of wearers have hiked all over the national
parks and back in their trusted Sundowners since
the lightweight, all-leather, Italian-designed boots
first appeared on store shelves more than 30 years
ago. The Sundowner went on to become an outdoor
specialty store staple as well as a benchmark for
what a hiking boot should look and feel like.
Specifically, when it launched in 1984, outdoor
enthusiasts embraced the boots lightweight qualities (weighing in around two pounds compared to
the six-pound beasts of the era) and waterproof
technology. The Sundowner was considered very

lightweight and was one of the first products to
incorporate Gore-Tex linings into footwear, says
Brian Hall, director of product development for
Vasque. It also had a molded insole/outsole that
was glued, not stitched, onto the boot. Hall says
it was met with instant success despite being
radically different in design and feel. People may
have had some trepidation, but [soon realized] it
was a greatly built product, he says. So great, that
many consumers have resoled their Sundowners
two to three times over the boots lifespans until
the uppers finally wore out.
Kevin Montayne, longtime buyer for Paramus,
NJ, specialty store Campmor, can attest to the styles
popularity right out of the gate. In 1984, when
the Sundowner was launched, boots were either
heavier or much lighter, almost sneaker-like, he
explains. The Sundowner was a great compromise of support in a lighter package. Originally
made in Italy, where building excellent footwear
is a tradition, the fit was very well-received by

many folks. Montayne says that along with the
waterproof benefits of Gore-Tex which, he notes,
allowed consumers to slack off on maintenance,
a sweet price point just below what others were
selling made it a hit at retail.
COLLEGE ROCK
The Sundowner struck a vein on college campuses
in the 1990s, exploding in popularity. The green
revolution was in full swing, and Grunge fashions
love of logger boots played a role. It was a culture
that was all about getting outside, kind of what
were seeing now, with a revitalization of hiking
and camping, Hall recalls. It became part of the
uniform on college campuses in the early 90s, and
we had really strong sales through the decade.
With over three million pairs sold to date, the
Sundowner has been pivotal in Vasques overall
success and led to the development of more lightweight boots such as the Skywalk hiker (also still
For I n d e p e n d e n t
S p e c i a lt y Re ta i le rs
Presented By
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From top: Vasque Sundowner

ads circa 1992 and 1988; the
1984 Sundowner.
VA S Q U E S U N D OW N E R
in production today). Despite the development

of new technologies and styles, however, many
customers keep coming back to the Sundowner.
Why? Its the simplicity, Hall says. The boot
has a one-piece leather upper. Its a really clean
silhouette that fits well. It breaks into your foot
like a nice leather glove.
Sam Hardy, head editor/tester in chief for
Alloutdoorsguide.com, who has worn his fair
share of hiking boots, is a big fan of the Sundowner. For me, it comes down to a timeless
style matched with reliable functionality, he
says. You know what you are going to get with
Vasque, and the Sundowner is a classic in the
hiking world.
Following the Sundowners run in the 90s,
the boots sales remained consistent with several
peaks, especially among urban/hip-hop culture
last decade. Sales dipped amid the sneaker boom,
and some consumers were disappointed when
production shifted to Asia in 2000. While Hardy
says he didnt notice a change in quality, he
acknowledges that many longtime wearers werent
happy with the made in China tag. Hall heard
the outcry, however, and has been instrumental
in returning the Sundowners production to Italy
with its original last and all-leather construction, beginning in fall 2015. Its been really well
received by our customers who have had the boot
before, he says of Italian-made revival, noting
a particular popularity among Millennial-aged
hikers and their strong preference for authentic
design. They see it as the epitome of the hiking
boot, he says.
The nostalgia factor definitely plays a role,
along with the classic alpine hiking boot look
that has been trending strongly in fashion over
the past year or so. Plus, the Sundowner has
proven features to back up its retro aesthetic.
Quality of materials countstheyre particularly
susceptible to durability concerns by consumers,
Hardy explains. Not only do customers want
their boots to perform; they also want something
stylish. I think the Sundowner bridges that gap
of form and function nicely. He adds that while
the boot might not be best suited for multi-day
back-country treks, the Sundowner is ideal for
weekend hikes as well as tooling around town.
Hall believes such versatility in performance
and looks is what resonates with consumers.
The beautiful thing about the Sundowner is
that while stylistically they have nostalgia, its
a great functional product, he says. Youre not
buying a boot just for the look. Youll have it
for years. You can resole them multiple times.

He adds that long-term quality is particularly
appreciated among Millennials who prefer
premium materials and want the added bang
for their buck. Thats an idea thats come back
into favor, he notes. People want something
they can invest in. Its still that kind of product
that will always have a place in our line.
A TOP SELLER
That combination of form and function is backed
by the Sundowners 32-year-record at retail. Stores
have rarely moved on. Campmor, for example, has
been selling Sundowners since 1986. Ive sold
or bought this boot, in one iteration or another,
for 22 of Campmors 30 years, Montanye says.
For years it was the most popular boot, the
one everything else was compared against. He
adds, It became a classic and the standard for
which that years more popular models would be
measured against. Montanye estimates the store
has easily sold tens of thousands of Sundowners
over the decades and ranks the style in the topfive all-time footwear styles. Certainly it would
receive an all-star award for longevity, he says.
Travis Gneiting, who likens his website
Gearchase.com to the Kayak.com of the outdoor
industry, reports the Sundowner has been great
for business. While the website doesnt actually
sell product, Gneiting says it gets a lot of traffic
from consumers searching, Vasque Sundowner
on sale. We are typically in the top three Google
search rankings for the term, so we drive sales
to our affiliates for the boots all year long, he
says, adding, The Vasque Sundowner is such
an iconic boot.
Hall says that the Sundowner remains a core
style for Vasque amid todays resurgence in long
hikes and weekend camping. People are picking up
our boot and using it as a daily piece, he says, just
like when it first hit the market. When you look
at that consumer then and now, I dont think its
all that different. The consistency, Hardy believes,
is due to the Sundowners simple design matched
with modern enhancements. The Sundowner
under promises and over delivers, he says.
Campmors Montayne agrees, noting that the
style will always have a place in the store. Many
footwear trends have come and gone over the
years, he says. What keeps the Sundowner
an essential part of the conversation is that it
continues to satisfy the timeless desire of folks
for good support in a lightweight boot while
providing a great fit to a lot of people.
footwear
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W H AT S S E L L I N G
Boutiques
What brands have performed best this year? Weve done extremely
well with AGL. Jon Josef has also done really well. In accessories,
we just received fabulous handbags from Elk, which are well-priced
out of Australia. Also, Lily and Lola, the handbag brand based in
Los Angeles, has been strong.
Any new footwear brands added to the mix of late? Grey City.
The designers hail from Seattle, and the brand is an excellent price
point with great styling. Weve also added Firenze Studio, made by
a local designer and manufactured in Italy. Fall is their first delivery.
I expect them to do well.
How was business overall this year? Really soft at the beginning.
Election years are typically tough because people are distracted.
But as we got down to the final stretch, they started to loosen up.
Z E L DA S S H O E B A R
Po r t l a n d , O R
HATS AN ECCENTRIC fashion boutique to do when

athleisure reigns? Stock a few athletic styles, of course.
And Libby Hartung, owner of Zeldas Shoe Bar, did
just that this year. But she had reservationswould
people prefer to shop traditional athletic brands in
sportier stores? Not necessarily, as Hartung reports
that Zeldas most rapidly expanding category this year
has been, Tennis shoes! Specifically, Isle Jacobsens Tulip slip-on tennie and
sporty looks by J/Slides, Closed, Blackstone and Camper.
A veteran of the shoe business for nearly 23 years, Hartung has always kept
her finger on the pulse of the latest trends in order to pull styles that her loyal
clientele (age 30 to 75) loves. Her secret is understanding the niche desires
of Zeldas target customerindependent women. They dont have to take it
home to show their husband, or have you hold their hand and tell them how
to wear it, she says. These women just love fabulous shoes.
From plush carpet to a glimmering chandelier as its centerpiece, the
900-square-foot boutique is nestled in the up-and-coming downtown area
populated with other trendy boutiques. Zeldas eclectic brand mix includes
Arche, Frye, Camper, Vera Wang, Korkease and Old Gringo. And while neutral Barbour jackets and metallic Chelsea boots remain go-to staples for her
clientele, Hartung is always on the lookout for whats next and how she can
apply her twist in order to stand out from the competition. I like collections
that incorporate lots of texture, materials and color, she says. People often
comment on our variety of casual, dress and fashion styles. We all have lots
of facets to our personality, and I think we have shoes that represent lots of
those different facets. Above all, Hartung attributes her success to one reliable philosophy: Women buy out of passion, not out of need. Men are too
practical. Emily Beckman
How might a Trump presidency affect your business? Its difficult

to say what effect Trump will have. Weve experienced 18 inconsistent
months as people have been uncertain and react differently to change.
I guess I dont have to stock up on pantsuits [laughs]. Although,
I dont think Hillary would have been a trendsetter in fashion. She
would have been great for women and business, but I didnt see
people focusing on her fashion as they did with Michelle Obama
or other first ladies. I just hope people will become more relaxed
and back to business-as-usual now that the election is finally over.
Whats the biggest challenge facing your business? Keeping fresh
product at the right price while balancing fashion and comfort.
People pay attention to comfort more than ever, but our aging baby
boomer is not settling for past comfort looks. The industry needs
to pay attention to the fashion aspect of comfort lines. Likewise,
I tell my vendors more padding is necessary in platform stylesor at least
decrease the heel height.
What is your No. 1 goal for next year? To build our business downtown and
increase sales twofold. I just want to get back to where our numbers were
before the recession. In order to do that, Ill maintain a great selection of styles
and vary the price points. For example, I carry $175 boots up to $610 styles,
but the top end is really eight percent of my buyits just the candy. Finding
fashionable shoes that are quality and well-priced is always a challenge, but
I think there are more options now.
Do you have any plans to sell online? Weve never felt we had the manpower
to keep up with it. But we are in the process of redoing our website and plan
on adding that feature. A little late to the game, but better late than never.
Whats your most effective way of reaching new customers? Location,
location, location! Also word of mouth, social media and local maps.
What is the best decision youve made recently? Moving downtown. The
street that I was on for so many years became more mainstream. Downtown
Portland is finally seeing a resurgencea lot of building and revitalization.
Oddly enough, boutiques like mine are downtown now. I feel like I made the
move at the perfect timebefore rents become astronomical.
Is there a greatest shoe of all time? I think that evolves with the times, but
I love ankle boots with sleek lines because they can be dressed up or down.
I also love embellishment and textureIm a sucker for a good python or
animal print.
Y E S , T H EY RE
B I R KEN STOC K.
OUR BOOTS FEATURE THE ORIGINAL CONTOURED

CORK FOOTBED FOR HISTORIC COMFORT AND SUPPORT.
birkenstock.com
continued from page 25

Superstar along with its Stan Smith classic trainers shot up 45 percent to 15 boutiques shelves. The Superstar is a key part of a balanced collection, he says,
million pairs sold in 2015.
adding, Without it, the Adidas legacy would be less glorious than it is today.
If you walk into Finish Line, its going to be on the front display with a pair As for how many pairs Bodega has sold since opening in 2006, Mak responds,
of Adidas track pants, Sirico says. Its instant profit for retailers right now.
Enough to go to the moon and back.
Jeff Perlstein, owner of Oakland, CA, sneaker
Similarly, DJ James, manager at Sneaker Polboutique Solespace nabbed an Adidas Origiitics, the three-store chain based in Louisiana,
nals account in the past year, and can attest to
ranks the Superstar in its top 10 bestsellers. Every
that fact. Weve absolutely seen a boost. Aditime we have a Superstar 80, it sells out within
das has quickly become one of our strongest
a day or two, he reports. It attracts a lot of kids
brands, he reports. Similarly, John McPhetwho are scrambling to post it [on social media].
ers, founder of the New Yorkbased Stadium
If you have their size, they dont care about the
Goods, has been selling Superstars since he
cost. James notes that the Superstar is particuopened the consignment shop last year, jumplarly a must-have among older high school and
ing onto the styles latest iterations. We carry
college students, but has been a steady seller
more-recent Superstar collaborations between
since the first store opened a decade ago. The
Adidas and the Japanese brands like Neighshoe sells so well because its so classicnothborhood and Mastermind, he says. And, of
ing too flashy, James says. You can pair anycourse, weve sold both of Pharrells first Adithing with it.
das collaborations, the Supercolor and his artSirico agrees that the Superstars versatility is
Lester Wasserman,
work collection designed by artists like Todd
what has given it legs for so many years. When
James and Zaha Hadid.
Run-DMC was wearing them with sweatpants
co-owner of Tip Top Shoes and West NYC
Lester Wasserman, co-owner of Tip Top
and fat laces, it was a bulky look, he explains.
Shoes and the sneaker boutique West NYC
Now, people are wearing them with skinny jeans.
in Manhattan, has been selling the Superstarthousands of themfor nearly
Iconic shoe designs possess the style flexibility to cross barriers and generthree decades. What makes it legendary is its cross-over appeal, he says. From ations. The Superstar is no exception. Its been adopted and reinterpreted for
high school students to guys and girls on their way out to the Hamptons, to doc- decades and shows little signs of becoming played out. The Superstar blends
tors and lawyers to those trying to relive childhood memoriesIve sold Super- authenticity with creativity and self-expression like no other sneaker, Schumstars to all and everyone in between.
acher says. Our customers are creators, and the Superstar offers itself as a blank
Mak confirms that the silhouette is a must-have on any credible sneaker canvas for all of those who have adopted it since it first debuted.
From high school students to

guys and girls on their way out
to the Hamptons, to doctors and
lawyers to those trying to
relive childhood memories
Ive sold Superstars to all and
everyone in between.
T R E N D S P OT T I N G
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Low-profile rain shoes for those days when Mother Nature just cant make up her mind.
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Faceted block
heels by
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3366
STATEMENT SHAPES AND INTRICATE DETAILS BUILD

STYLE FROM THE GROUND UP.
P HOTO GR A PHY BY B ILL PHE L PS
38
Geometric-heeled loafer by
All Black Opposite: Things II Come
spider web stiletto.
39
440
0
Greedilous
lucite wedge.
Opposite:
Painted cork
heel by Loriblu.
Lucite geode heel by

United Nude. Opposite:
Mashizan pony hair
cut-out wedge.
42
43
Crystal embellished stiletto by Badgley Mischka. Opposite: Embroidered block-heel mule by Fulya Cerit.
Photography by Bill Phelps/We Are Casey Agency. Fashion Editor: Ann Loynd; hair and makeup: Angelia Guthrie;
models: Meghan R. and Mattea B./Ignite Models; retouching: Hunny Digital.
44
EDITORS PICKS
P O I N T W E L L TA K E N
Equal parts ease and sophistication,
pointy-toed mules are a recipe for chic.
All Black
Ivanka
Trump
D E S I G N E R C H AT
AS MANY NEW YORKERS know, one

of the toughest parts of making it here
is covering the rent. And in 1980, that is
exactly what Adam Derrick was aiming
to do when he started working in his husbands Western boot store, To Boot, on
weekends to help supplement his entrylevel salary at CBS News. But he soon realized his weekend job was a lot more fun
than his nine-to-five.
I loved working with customers and
in fashion, and I had a lot of ideas about
product, Derrick recalls of his time working at the Upper West
Side store. So later that year, Derrick switched to full-time at To
Boot, eventually becoming a business partner and, more notably,
lead designer who transformed the store into a wholesale brand
beginning in 1984. Over the ensuing decades, To Boot has evolved
into a luxury lifestyle line for men spanning sneakers and sandals
to dress shoes and, of course, plenty of boots.
Within in that broad range, Derrick has built a design reputation around making shoes that, pardon the pun, have sole. I like
designing shoes that you can tell before even picking them up that
people have touched them while they were being made, he says,
noting it involves a love of rich, hand-burnished leathers that have
depth of tone. I feel like the shoe is not only the most important
thing a guy if wearing but it defines the outfit, he adds. Guys
make or break their look with shoes, and I believe my shoes look
important in a subtle, understated way.
Derrick says this design ethos has contributed to To Boots broad
appeala trait that was verified at a recent truck show where he
was assisting a father and his 13-year-old son pick out shoes for
a Bar Mitzvah. They each bought pair and while I was talking to
them, the grandfather came over. Next thing I knew, we had three
generations of men wearing To Boot! he laughs, adding, Im not
about pigeonholing who we are and who our brand is. Taste and
style transcend age. Ann Loynd
Tell me about your Spring 17 collection. Its very, very easy and
comfortable while still being really spiffy. A lot of the styles are so
glove-soft and comfy that they can be worn without socks. Ironically,
Shellys
London
TMRW
Studio
we just launched a sock collection as well.

Sneakers are also becoming more and more
important for us, along with comfortable
moccasins and penny loafers on flexible
bottoms. I also updated classic styles people look to To Boot for. For example, I put
our Chelsea boots on a full, wedge bottom
this season so they look fresh.
How is the athleisure trend affecting
the luxury market? Its turning it upside
down. If youre in fashion, you have to
embrace new. For younger customers,
they dont see any point in wearing something that isnt as comfortable as their
sneakers. That becomes technical with
dress shoes, but since I manufacture in
Italy, we have access to the best leathers.
Were incorporating that feel-good stuff
into a dress shoe.
Are men becoming more fashionforward? You see certain aspects, like
men wearing makeup or Jaden Smith in
an ad wearing a skirt, but this isnt stuff
thats really translating to people on the
street. I wouldnt say men are more fashion-forward, but theyre mixing things
up moremaybe nice track pants with a
jacket and sweater.
Where do you look for inspiration? Im
so fortunate to live in the West Chelsea section of New York. I walk out of my door
and, bam! Theres the Highline and Hudson
River Park and Greenwich Village nearby.
All you have to do is keep your eyes open
to find inspiration.
Who is your fashion icon? I really admire
Tom Ford. Hes multi-talented, always stylish.
E D I TO R S P I C K S P H OTO G R A P H Y BY T R E V E T T M CC A N D L I S S
ADAM DERRICK
Fall head over heels.

Come for the shoes, leave with the business.
REGISTER AT FFANY.ORG
JAN 31 - FEB 2
@FFANYSHOESHOW
FFANY.ORG
FUTURE SHOW DATE:
JUNE 13 ! 15
UPCLOSE COMFORT
BUYER CHAT
Ryan Dardano
Dardanos Shoes
Meet Feetz
Custom-fit and designed 3D
printed shoes for the masses.
PERHAPS ITS FITTING that a mathematician, Lucy Beard, is the brainchild behind Feetz, a company that manufactures custom fit, sustainably
made, 3D printed shoes. The concept, launched in 2013, is all about the
numbers, such as custom sizing to the millimeter, greatly reduced shipping
costs and impressive sustainability stats.
Beard, a former Silicon Valley exec, believes Feetz represents a disruptive
industry model whose time is now. Silicon Valley teaches you there are
no limits, she says. When you look at the world through those eyes, the
opportunities are endless. That mindset is what triggered Beards Feetz
epiphany, which occurred after an unsuccessful shoe shopping excursion.
Beard had gone to lick her wounds at a Starbucks, ordering a grande
mocha light with two pumps, when it occurred to her that standard shoe
sizing doesnt meet individual needs for fit and comfort. Many equations
later, Beards team created the SizeMe system that uses a mobile scanner
to capture 5,000 data points and 22 dimensions that produce a customized
3D printed shoe in less than two weeks. I began this company to resolve
my own need of finding shoes that actually fit, she says.
In an effort to bring Feetz to the masses, the company partnered with
DSW this fall by opening two pop-up shops in the chains New York and San
Francisco flagships. Shoppers can see the 3D printers in action, designing
their own flats or slip-on sneakers. DSW is running a limited time offer of
$175 and $125 for mens and womens styles, respectively. (Retail pricing for
mens is normally $249 and $199 for womens.) Beard hopes to extend this
pop-up concept to additional DSW stores as well as other retailers going
forward. Starbucks, Barnes & Noble, Apple, airportsthe options are
endless and beyond footwear stores because Feetz is experiential, she says.
Beard believes the Feetz concept is also in step with the buy now/wear
now movement. Consumers consume social media in an instant, and the
industry needs to be able to react to those trends, she says. Feetz enables
you to react a lot faster. And by making product on demand, you react to
just whats needed.
That efficiency translates into Feetzs sustainability premise that begins
with its San Diego manufacturing base. It avoids manufacturing from 3,000
miles away, and we only use what what is ordered, Beard says. Theres
no water process used either, so the combination equals 60 percent less
waste. In addition, Feetz microfiber is 100-percent recycled and its core
NoogaFlex material blend is recyclable up to 20 times of use.
Beard believes the future of Feetz is bright, noting that once a customers
size is captured ordering additional styles is seamless. We know your [exact]
size, and itll be about picking a style to match with our digital cobbler, she
says, adding, Our mission is to see that you never have to try on a pair of
shoes again. Greg Dutter
RYAN DARDANO, BUYER and manager of

Dardanos Shoes in Denver, CO, was 14 years old
when he joined his father in the familys shoe repair
business. The store, first opened in 1938 by Dardanos
grandfather as a repair shop, went through several
relocations, and ultimately evolved during the 80s
into a full-service specialty comfort destination
around the time Dr. Martens and Birkenstock pushed
their way to fashions forefront. Dardano evolved as
well, transitioning into the role of buyer while also
managing a 12,000-square-foot store stocked with more than 60 leading
comfort brands. Savvy in both shoe construction and style, Dardano uses
his well-rounded background to select brands and styles that adhere to the
stores nearly 80-year-old keystone: comfort.
The definition of comfort is subjective, Dardano offers. What works
for one person may not be ideal for someone else, but ultimately comfort
is knowing that your feet will feel good in a pair of shoes, and the rest of
your day will benefit from it.
Key brands at Dardanos include Birkenstock, Earth, Ugg, Taos, Naot
and Ecco. Dardanos brother and sister, Dillon and Brittany, also are part of
the buying team. All three are rooted in very different senses of style that,
Dardano believes, make for a great balance to round out each season. I
love trying the unknown and seeing how it will perform, he says. Its like
a giant puzzle of just getting everything to fit and work right to achieve a
cohesive story throughout our store. Emily Beckman
What has sold well this fall? Samuel Hubbard has been doing well, and
we just introduced womens, which has taken off quite a bit for us. We also
carry Aetrex, and it has been performing really well in mens and womens.
Unfortunately, it has been a little warm here so our boot sales havent quite
kicked in.
What are some key trends for Spring 17? For women, weve noticed a
lot more elegant comfort, brands like Pikolinos, that give a cleaner look.
They have a slight heel so you get the dressier look with the same comfort
features. For men, our demographic has been changing a lot. Weve always
had a strong outdoor following, and were seeing it shift toward Red Wing
and Fryethat classic boot type. A lot of guys are drawn to durable quality
instead of more-disposable shoes. If they see a welted construction or that
they can resole to extend the life, guys are gravitating toward it.
Why? A few years ago, we were in much more of a disposable economy.
Now, people are realizing that if they spend a little more on a shoe, theyll
have it longer and actually end up saving money in the long run.
Whats the best buying decision youve ever made? Within every brand
and in every season you have victories and shortfalls. But we really listen to
our employees to see whats moving best to try and minimize any mistakes.
We also curtail our selection to cover as many feet as possible. Meaning,
we carry some bigger brands that offer a wider selection so we can satisfy
more feet across several categories in one brand.
Such as? Dansko is a big player for us. Ecco is revolutionizing some of its
offerings, and Mephisto has a wide range of shoes people can select from.
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THE NEW SUMMER
Lost in the flood: Many South Carolinians are in

need of footwear and clothing donations.
continued from page 12

ers previously attended OR. In addition, Kahan says its rep force
will be on the road even more to meet with many of these retailers
in their stores.
Theres no question that the shift puts undo pressure on our
operations and product development teams, says Kitty Bolinger,
vice president of sales for Dansko. [November] is very early and
also when we schedule our sales meeting, plus its the week before
Thanksgiving, she adds. I also have concerns, quite frankly, whether
retailers will want to leave their stores and make such a trek. This
is when they start to see green ink and, as beautiful as a setting Salt
Lake City is, it isnt easy to get into. As for the summer show dates,
Bolinger says, June is doable.
Larry Schwartz, CEO of Aetrex Worldwide, agrees that the November
dates, in particular, are an issue. For our footwear business, it wont
be possible to be ready in November. But the changes will not impact
our technology and orthotics businesses, he says. The June dates
are when the company holds it sales meetings, but Schwartz says it
will adjust as best it can.
David Helter, sport sales director for Ecco USA, describes the new
dates as a major shift that presents a timing issue that will cause
the product development team to alter their schedule. As to whether
Ecco will be able to meet the earlier deadlines, Helter says, its too
early to say with certainty.
To the brands not pleased with the earlier dates, Nicholson says OR
did its best to accommodate the majority of exhibitors. We recognize
that change is difficult and that making this shift wasnt going to work
for everyone, but we knew we needed to evolve to continue to serve
the majority of the industry, she says, adding that this decision was
not taken lightly. Its one of the reasons organizers announced the
South Carolina is a high
SOLES4SOULS (S4S) IS
move well in advance. We wanted to give the industry an 18-month
priority for us.
answering a call for help in
lead time, she says. There are many contracts in place that require
Tiffany Johnson, S4S outSouth Carolina after catastrophchanges to secure the venue, ensure adequate service staff, vendor
reach coordinator, takes this
ic flooding ravaged the state
support and that hotel blocks are available.
relief effort personally. She
recently. Record rainfallmore
Nicholson says OR is aslo open to suggestions that might assist
was raised in one of the hardthan 25 inchesforced thoufootwear exhibitors. We welcome feedback from footwear brands
est hit areas and her mother
sands from their homes and
and retailers in an effort to support their needs, she says. One such
still lives there. As soon as we
20 counties have been declared
example is the establishment of a Winter Market show slated for
realized the scope of this, I was
federal disasters. While 17 peoJanuary 2019. That show is designed specifically to accommodate
on the phone talking with variple lost their lives, tens of thouvendors and retailers who have later production and buying schedules.
ous agencies in South Carolina
sands more are without power
And while it may not be on the scale of the Novermber OR show, its
about how and when we could
and water, and many others lost
not expected to be small, either. Its not a mini market, and that show
help, she says, noting one of
all of their belongings.
will continue to be an opportunity to serve those market segments
her mothers co-workers lost
In response, S4S is issuing a
and categories that need a show in this timeframe, she says.
everything. My mother asked
plea to footwear retailers and
Count Dansko in: We would absolutely go, Bolinger says. We
if we could put together a few
manufactures to assist in a
have a fab rep team based in Salt Lake City. If the traffic is there, then
pairs of shoes for her co-worker,
relief mission. The non-profit is
Dansko will continue to attend. If not, then it will pull out. Likewise,
partnering with local emergency so I sent casual, dress and tenDansko will continue to exhibit at the earlier OR show dates for the
nis shoes, Johnson says, adding
responders in order to provide
foreseeable future. Weve been attending for 20 years so it would
that such a small, but meaningshoes and clothing to those in
be unthinkable that Dankso would not have a presence at OR, she
ful gesture, had an enormous
need. We are asking any and
says. But how it manifests, we have yet to see. It might be more of
impact. My mom brought the
all retailers or manufactura preview show than an order-taking show.
box of shoes to work and her
ers to donate boots, athletic
Schwartz says Aetrex will also continue to exhibit at OR, for now.
co-worker was overcome with
and childrens footwear, says
Well continue to support the show because, overall, theyve done
emotion, she says.
Brian Granfors, creative direca nice job bringing in strong retailers, he says. If that continues,
tor of S4S. Adds CEO Buddy
To donate shoes and clothing
well continue to be there.
Teaster: Responding to natural
for
Carolinatoflood
victims
Helter says Ecco is also planningSouth
to continue
attend
OR.
disasters has been part of the
or
make
a
monetary
donation
Supporting the OR show and the outdoor industry is essential to
to
Soles4Souls mission from the
contact
PattieisGraben
at 615having successin the specialty tradeS4S,
channel,
which
an important
very beginning and helping
area of growth for Ecco, he says. 541-7007 or pattieg@soles4souls.
people get back on their feet in
org. Laurie Cone
Soles4Souls Rallying
Call to Aid South Carolina
Flood Victims

I S S U E 1 0 $10
D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 6 VO L 2 6

ACK
FL ASHB
Groove
Designers
ng
to a 70s Vibe for Spri
BACK
STOR Y
Bold and
Beautiful, Heels
Lead the Way
LUME
MP UP THE VO
: DESIGNERS PU
LETS DANCE
11/15/16 6:56 PM
fw_cover_12_alt_02.indd 38
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june 2008 footwearplusmagazine.com 51
LAST WORD
My Pretty Shoes
A Smithsonian
conservator
analyzes the
composition
of Dorothys
ruby slipper.
SAVING DOROTHYS SOLES

A Kickstarter campaign to preserve a pair of magical slippers
has a very happy ending. By Emily Beckman
THESE ARENT JUST any red pumps. These are the
ultimate, magical ruby slippers worn by Dorothy Gale as
played by Judy Garland in the 1939 classic, The Wizard of
Oz. They are a national treasure befitting of a permanent
pedestal in the Smithsonian Institution National Museum
of American History, which is exactly where a rare pair
one of six known in existence from the movies wardrobe
closethas been on display for nearly 40 years.
But the passage of time, air and bright lights have
taken their toll on the iconic shoes. The sparkle of those
tiny red sequins, in particular, is losing its luster due to
discoloration and flaking. If something short of a Glinda the Good Witch
renewal spell doesnt occur soon, the shoes will continue to deteriorate and
very well may cease being the museums most requested object at the visitor
desk. And while that would surely make the Wicked Witch of the West cackle
in delight, it would be bad business for the Smithsonian as well as a loss of
something near and dear to millions of film lovers.
Unfortunately, saving Dorothys soles involves no quick or affordable preservation planmuseum conservators pegged the price tag at a hefty $300,000 to
restore the shoes as well as house them in a climate-controlled and protective
case. Museum officials needed financial assistance. (Unsubstantiated rumors
of staff members clicking their heels apparently didnt do the trick.) Enter
the museums Kickstarter crowdfunding campaign launched last month.
To conserve the ruby slippers, we could have sought grants or financial
assistance from wealthy people and corporations, explains Ryan Lintelman,
entertainment curator at the Smithsonian. Instead, Kickstarter gave us the
opportunity to talk to ordinary people directly, explain what we do here at the
museum and allow them to feel a bit of ownership of these treasured objects
by making a contribution.
The magic of social media proved to be a street paved with gold as officials
were overwhelmed by the outpouring of support. The campaigns tiered
incentives also played a key role in enticing the public, which ranged from
small rewards like a digital poster or tote to grand prizes like replica ruby
slippers or a personal museum tour. We always hoped wed reach our goal,
Lintelman says. But we didnt know wed reach it in just seven days and with
5,000 people contributing!
The fact is, these shoes represent much more than movie memorabilia,
according to Lintelman. He suggests the hyper-reality created by the films
fantasy landscapes and costumes captivated millions of Americans who, at the
time, were suffering through the Great Depression. It was a form of escapism,
he says. People were looking for a fantasy world that could take their minds
off their problems for a little while and, in that sense, these slippers helped
do that. Over the ensuing decades, Lintelman adds, the sparkly aesthetic of
the shoes reminded people of old Hollywood glamour.
Meghan Cleary, shoe expert and author of Shoeareyou.com, agrees that
Dorothys shoes serve as a cultural beacon. They are shiny, sparkly and
represented Dorothy getting through a dark timesomething people could
relate to during the Great Depression, she says, noting the not very high and
a bit blocky heel became an icon of femininity. That sort of heel has become
timeless and even women in power, depending on how they spin it, can look
feminine wearing them, she adds.
The restoration of Dorothys slippers will commence next year and be reintroduced in 2018 as part of a new exhibit that teaches Smithsonian visitors
about American history through the lens of popular culture. A gala is also
planned for the day the exhibit opens thats part celebration and part showing
gratitude. Our backers are incredibly generous and thoughtful, Lintelman
says. We want to thank donors for their civic-minded contributions in helping to save this national treasure.
get Into Outside.

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STYLE HALL OF FAME: ADIDAS SUPERSTAR & VASQUE SUNDOWNER

TREND SPOTTING: LOOKS LIKE RAIN

PLUS AWARDS BALLOT INSIDE

201 6 PLUS AWARDS

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Come And Experience Earth

On the cover: Embroidered heels by

Photography by Bill Phelps/We Are

26 The Sundowner Also Rises

a top seller on store shelves and worthy of induction into the

The iconic Adidas Superstar has found prominence among 70s-

HEAVE-HO THE STATUS QUO

then marking the (now stale) merchandise in another warm

8 footwearplusmagazine.com december 2016

Purveyors of luxury European comfort footwear

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East meets West in Georgias capital city crossroads, where

SCENE & HEARD

Earlier OR dates: Yay or Nay?

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WHO WOULD HAVE thought

brands to the marketplace.

VER THE PAST decades, the Two Ten Footwear

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Two Ten President

Two Ten Education

applicants and scholars so that they remain in school.

going to connect them with mentors, Newman explains. Liz is

Victoria McFarland, 18, Lakeland, FL

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2016 december footwearplusmagazine.com 17

to attain a degree, she says. The Two Ten

many of them are actually working in the

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18 footwearplusmagazine.com december 2016

The Rockport Company, LLC. All rights reserved.

Outdoor Retailer I Atlanta Shoe Market I FN PLATFORM

TS BEEN A year of epic changes in the

shoes experience between the three of us. We know

for example, is now set up to divide and conquer.

CHANGE IS (REALLY) GOOD

20 footwearplusmagazine.com december 2016

departures or a rash of store closings that would

22 footwearplusmagazine.com december 2016

independent retail partners by directing customer

from larger retailers, noting that Earthies, Earth

are just digging our own graves.

They dont call it the Superstar for nothing:

The original Adidas

herringbone rubber outsoles and a rubber shell

unlike the shoes previous popular runs that were

shoes sporting heritage gives it a credible voice

WALK THIS WAY

waited outside for 72 hours at the Adidas

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Over the past three decades,

HIKING ENTHUSIASTS ARE a loyal bunch.

technology. The Sundowner was considered very