QUAKER GREEN ACTION

The Witness of Our Buildings

Information sheets to help Friends make our

buildings less damaging to the environment

VI. GARDENS AND BURIAL GROUNDS

Many of our Meeting House grounds are managed purely for the benefit of Homo Sapiens, and we forget all
the other species with whom we share this planet. It is difficult to share our buildings fairly, but in the
grounds we can try to make amends by thoughtful planning, which will benefit other species. One of the
main problems for wildlife in this country is lack of suitable habitats, and we can try to make up for this by
providing a variety where many different animals and plants can flourish.
Meeting House grounds can be a learning resource for the Meeting in general, and for children and young
people in particular, where species sighted and changes to the environment can be recorded and discussed.
Old Meeting House gardens can be especially rich in plant species, having been separated for possibly a few
hundred years from the surrounding area, which may have been treated with fertilisers, pesticides and
herbicides.
The first thing is to record what you have, and the different areas and habitats. Then you can draw up a
management plan so that you know what you want and where you want it. It might be useful to have a
notice board explaining that you are managing the area for wildlife, and you could also have a sketch plan
marking the different areas and important features. You may wish to add certain trees, shrubs, or flowers; or
there may be no space for this. Below is a list of "creatures and features" which may help.

Grass: Only mow regularly those areas that need mowing for access or amenity. Even here, raise the cutting
edge of the mower to one inch to encourage ground flora such as daisy, selfheal and germander speedwell.
Remove the cuttings to reduce the fertility of the area, which will encourage wildflowers. Too much
nitrogen benefits coarse grasses and "weeds". The cuttings can be used for compost, or put them directly
round trees and shrubs to act as mulch.
Towards the edge of the lawn, raise the cutting edge to three inches for a few yards, and beyond that (a
strimmer may be needed) cut only twice a year, in July and September. This will encourage meadow
grasses and flowers such as devil's bit scabious, harebell and bird's foot trefoil. Bulbs such as wild daffodil
and fritillary can be planted if wished. Paths can be cut through the long grass area on a one-inch cut with a
three-inch border. Weed out thistles and nettles from the main areas, but a corner can be kept for them.
Nettles are a food plant for caterpillars of red admiral, peacock and tortoiseshell butterflies. Thistles provide
late nectar for many insects as well as seeds for small birds. They can be grown in a container to stop them
spreading too much.
Trees and shrubs: Native trees and shrubs are best for wildlife, as the species are naturally adapted to each
other. If you want to plant more, choose those which have value for birds (berries) or for butterflies and
other insects (flowers). Those that flower early and late are especially good, as food sources are scarcer
then. Examples are:
For berries: rowan, hawthorn, wild cherry, holly, elder, spindle
For early flowers: pussy willow, flowering currant, Daphne mezereon
For late flowers: ivy
Buddleia, though not native, is valuable for butterflies, and has a long flowering period.
You may wish to grow trees that are of value to us, too, in which case hazel (cob or filbert being the
cultivated varieties), walnuts and almond all provide nuts. Walnuts are slow-growing but eventually reach a
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large height. Damsons and other fruit trees are useful, but some need more maintenance than others because
of pests (apples especially).
If there is a large area, bigger trees such as oak (one of the best for supporting insects), birch, beech, and ash
can also be planted. Beware of those with very heavy canopies such as sycamore and horse chestnut, as
their leaves and shade kill everything underneath.
Hedges: If you have a hedge, keep it thick for birds to nest in. This is best done by laying it (pleaching), but
if not, by cutting it tightly, preferably in an "A" shape, wider at the base than at the top. Allow a foot or two
of uncut grass by the edge to give cover for a wildlife corridor. Preferably hedges should be of native
species such as hawthorn, blackthorn, holly, field maple, hazel. Privet (native, or the common one sold for
hedging) is semi-evergreen and will provide shelter in winter. Do not burn clippings, as this pollutes the
atmosphere - chip and compost them.
Walls: Walls are important for mosses and lichens, which vary according to the type of stone, its age, and
exposure to weather. Lichens need light, and mosses need damp. Other plants will also flourish on walls,
such as ice-plant (a late flowerer), thrift, wallflower, wild thyme, and rock rose. Gravestones are similarly
important for lichens and mosses, and should not be cleaned. If they are of limestone they provide a rich
habitat for lichens especially, and different species grow on them from those that grow on granite or
sandstone.
Flower-beds: Many Meeting Houses do not go in for much in the way of flowers, but if you do, perennials
are the easiest and can provide good ground cover. Some are also valuable for insects, e.g. marjoram,
lavender, sage, savoury, mints, golden rod, Michaelmas daisy, bugle, Welsh poppy. The herbs can also be
used by members of the Meeting! Honesty and borage are good biennials. Good annuals include nasturtium,
marigold (the leaves of both of which can be used in salads), tobacco plant (night flowering for moths),
hairy bittercress, and chickweed (leaves can be eaten), poached egg plant, phacelia, creeping jenny.
Creepers: Creepers on sheds or walls can be attractive. Ivy provides late flowers for insects, honeysuckle
gives nectar, Virginia creeper gives good autumn colour, and all provide nesting places.
Nesting boxes: Can be put up for bats and birds, different species having different requirements - see RSPB
leaflets and local wildlife trust shops. Holes in walls can also be useful for nests.
Bird table: If this is kept replenished in winter, for example by a warden, it is useful. If not, it can do more
harm than good, as birds will expect food and not find it when they really need it.
Compost heap: Good for worms, spiders, slow worms, and the garden!
Pile of rotting wood and stones: Habitat for many insects, mice, voles, hedgehogs, wrens, and other small
birds.
Pond: If you have plenty of space you could make a pond. However, this is a major operation, needs a lot a
space, some maintenance, and can be dangerous for small children.

References

Wildlife in Church and Churchyard: plants, animals and their management, by Nigel Cooper. Church House
Publishing 2001 (2nd edition). About 70 pages. £9.95. Can be ordered through bookshops.

Caring for God’s Acre for the Diocese of Hereford: a loose-leaf folder of about 50 pages. Published 2001.
From The Verger’s House, The Priory, Leominster HR6 8EQ, tel. 01568 611154. Cost £10 inc. p&p.
Produced for the geographical area of Hereford, but may be of use elsewhere.

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