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Bhubaneswar-751003
INTRODUCTION
Indigenous fermented foods and beverages are those that have been used for centuries,
even pre-dating within historical records and they are essential for the well-being of
many people of the world, and can be prepared in the household or in cottage industry
using relatively simple techniques and equipments (Steinkraus, 1989; Ray and Sivakumar,
such as yeasts and lactobacilli are present in or on the ingredients, which increase the
levels of proteins, vitamins, essential amino acids and fatty acid. The protein and vitamin
deficiencies are the major problem of the third world countries. In this regard, production
and consumption of fermented foods are very important to the third world countries diet
(Tamang et al., 1988). Fermentation improves the digestibility by detoxifying the toxic
elements in the food such as cyanogenic glycosides (i.e. linamarin and lotaustralin) in
cassava (Ray and Sivakumar, 2009) and on the other hand, it improves the flavor, aroma,
Preparation of fermentation foods is a household art. Each county, and each region or
state in the county has its own list of fermented foods based upon the availability of the
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raw materials, social and cultural traditions and demographic profile. Odisha is a small
state in the eastern part of the India, which has wide cultural, social, ethnic as well as
plant and food diversity. In Odisha, 62 tribal communities such as Khanda, Khola,
Santala, Juanga, Bhuiyan, Saora, Dharua , Bonda and others are found and contributes
about 22% population of the state. The local names and their appropriate english
The state has a wide diversity of indigenous fermented foods, which are generally
influenced, by the geographic and climatic diversity of the state. These fermented foods
ODISHA STATE
Odisha state (Fig.1) lies in the East coast of the country between 81 27 and 87
29 east longitudes and 17 49 and 22 34 north latitude, with coastline of 480 kms
touching Bay of Bengal. The state experiences hot and humid climate round the year with
short winters. The maximum and minimum temperature during summer are 402C, 28
2C, respectively and the same during winter are 252C, 12 2C, respectively. The
state is divided in to 10 agro-climatic zones based on soil, rainfall, climate and other
regions, namely North Odisha Highland, South Odisha Highland and Mahanadi delta
which start from river Subarnarekha in North to Chilika Lake in South. Chilika lake, a
brackish water coastal lake on the Bay of Bengal, south of the Mahanadi River, is the
largest coastal lake in India and the second largest in the world. Similarly, the Similipal
Biosphere Reserve comprises of the entire Similipal sanctuary (core and buffer together),
the adjoining Nato and Satkoshia Reserve Forests forming additional buffer and a belt of
approximately 10 km width all around the entire buffer designated as the 'transition zone'.
The total area of this Biosphere Reserve is 5569 sq. km. The Similipal hill ranges, a
densely forested area constitute the core and a part of the buffer zones of the Biosphere
Reserve, and there are also 65 villages within these two zones including four in the core
zone. In spite of the wide diversity, Odisha has a rich cultural heritage, which is a
harmonious blending of art, religion and philosophy interwoven around Lord Jagannath
Rice (Oryza sativa L.) is the major cereal crop in Odisha, cultivated at about 4.45
Mha with an annual production of 5.39 M tones. More than 80% peoples in Odisha
consume rice as staple food in their diet. Rice based non-alcoholic and alcoholic diet or
beverages are widely available and consumed in Odisha. These are discussed below.
Water rice locally called as pakahla, which is an Odiya term. The term pakahla is
derived from Pali word pakhalita as well as Sanskrit word prakshalana, which means
Depending on the quality of rice and additive ingredients such as spices, curd etc which
are added to the rice in water; the pakahla can be classified as: saja pakhaka (fresh water
rice), basi pakhala (stale water rice), jeera pakala (spice water rice), dahi pakhala (curd
water rice) etc. Pakahla is widely eaten particularly by Odiya people during the summer
In pakahla preparation, rice is boiled properly and excess boiled water is removed
from it. The drained rice is allowed to cool down to room temperature and ordinary water
is added to it so that the rice remains submerged completely. Then excess water mixed
rice is allowed to ferment at room temperature for 8 to 12 hour. After the incubation
period, the fermented rice with water, locally called as torani is served. It is popularly
served with roasted vegetables such as potato (Solanum tuberosum L.), brinjal (Solanum
melongena L.) and often with fried small fishes. Pakahla is some time co-fermented/
mixed with curd, cucumber (Cucumis sativus L.), cumin (Cumin cumin L.) seeds, fried
onion (Allium cepa L.) and mint (Mentha longifolia) leaves. Traditionally, pakahla is
included in the recipe of Lord Jagannath the eternal deity of Odiya people. The Jagannath
temple at district Puri, Odisha was built in the 12th century AD, it is presumed that
Pakahla was also in existence at that time. Now- a -days, pakahla recipe has been
introduced to the 3- and 5- star hotel menus of Odisha to attract the guests, who are
(Saccharomyces spp.) and lactobacilli, those bring typical aroma and sourness to the item.
5
the state of Odisha, mostly by tribals. The word handia is originated from handi a big
earthen pot in which the rice is fermented. This beverage is very much popular in summer
because it keeps stomach cool and is a source of high energy. The drink has become
customary, as the tribal celebrate all the festive occasions and social ceremonies, by
taking this drink. Handia drink helps the tribals in uninterrupted sleep by reducing
In the handia preparation, approximately 1-2 kg of rice is boiled and then dried
for about 3-4 hour. After drying, 2-3 bakhar tablets (a mixture of rice flour, yeasts and
medicinal plant parts; the details are described in the following paragraph) are added to
the rice and soaked in water for 2 days. On the third day morning, rice is completely
fermented and the drink is ready for consumption (Fig 2). The fermented rice (handia) is
used as wine and as medication for constipation, urinary infections and liver disorders.
This is a unique kind of preparation of beverages using rice, plant parts and fermenting
grounded to powder to be used as the base material. To it, roots and barks of the selected
properties are added as dry powder (Sharma and Biswal, 2010; Behera et al., 2012).
Previously preserved bakhar tablets (5-10 nos) are powdered and mixed to this rice-plant
Saccharomyces cerevisiae and S. pombe in dried form (Sharma and Biswal, 2010). A
little amount of water is added to the whole mash to make the dough. The dough is
smoothened to rounded tablets, and the tablets are spread over on straw bed in layer after
called as pitha, specially prepared during various festivals and rituals. Some of these
foods are produced from the fermentation of cereal (rice) and rice-legume batters, which
These products include chitou, arisa, chakuli, chhunchipatra, endure, munha and
poda pitha. These pithas are unknown to scientific community and lack of scientific
studies. But all these foods are delicious and easily digestible; these are also suitable for
ailing persons, pre- or post-natal women and children. These foods are prepared and
All these foods are described with respect to the nature of the product, method of
Rice is the main ingredient in many of these cakes. These are discussed below.
Chitou pitha
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Chitou (Fig. 4) is prepared by mixing the fermented batter (without any legume)
with sugar and grated coconut (Cocus nucifera L.). It is then taken in a special earthen
mould or in deep bowl and covered with a lid. The junction is closed with a wet cloth and
water is sprinkled intermittently. It is fried on a low heat. Although it has shelf- life of
one day, chitou is delicious when taken fresh and hot. Generally, it is taken with curry,
sugar, curd or milk. Chitou is prepared in popular harvest festivals, like maker sankranti
and chitou amabasya. Preparation of the Chitou pitha is given in a flow chart Fig. 5.
Arish pitha
Arisa pitha (Fig. 6) is prepared by making a thick batter prepared from rice flour
and , locally called, Jantani, which is then made into small semi-flat round shapes and
fried in ghee or oil till the color changes to golden brown. In this preparation, the raw rice
is submerged in the water for 8 to 12 hour. Then the water shocked rice is allowed to dry
under shade and grinded in to fine flour with help of mechanical grinder. The flour is
then used for the Jantani preparation. The shelf-life of this Arisa pitha varies from six
Very often, rice and legume particularly black gram (Phaseolus mungo L.) is co-
Chakuli pitha
Chakuli (Fig. 7), which resembles dosa (a popular South-Indian fermented food),
is a round, fried pancake, which is eaten in Odisha daily as snacks. It is prepared from
varying proportions of par-boiled rice and black gram. A little amount of jaggery may be
8
(Artocarpus hetrophyllus Lam.) or Palmyra palm (Borassus flabellifer L.) or sweet potato
(Ipomoea batatas L) or mahula (Madhuca latifolia L.) flower paste depending on the
availability. Rice is washed, soaked, dewatered and briefly sun-dried. Dried rice grains
are pounded in an iron or wooden mortar and sieved to obtain a fine powder. Black gram
is soaked until the seed coat is easily removable by applying a gentle pressure. The grains
are rubbed with hands to loosen seed coats, which are allowed to float away. The black
gram is then made to a smooth paste using a stone grinder. The paste is beaten repeatedly
by hands with rice powder, appropriate amount of lukewarm water and salt. The batter is
left to ferment under cover for 4-5 hours during summer (12-15 hours during winter).
The fermented batter is fried over a hot greased pan to round shaped flat cake. Spices,
like ginger ( Zingiber officinale L.), onion (Allium cepa L.), and black pepper (Piper
nigrum) powder are sometimes added at the time of frying. Chakuli is taken as breakfast
food or snacks with a variety of side dishes including sambar, sugar, jaggery, milk,
vegetable curry, mutton, and most often without any dish. Though the shelf -life of
chakuli is one day, they are consumed hot and fresh for optimum delicacy.
Chhuchipatra pitha
fermenting batter. The fermented batter is flattened very, very thin (ultra thin) over a hot
greased pan using traditionally a soft piece of cloth and now a day, a spatula. The fillings
of grated coconut, curd cheese and sugar are taken in the centre of the pancake (Fig. 8 ),
which is then folded, in a square shape to fry suitably (Fig.8). It has a shelf -life of two
days and is usually taken without any adjunct due to its sweet taste. The art of preparing
9
Enduri pitha
fermented batter (as done for making chakuli) in a turmeric (Curcuma longa L.) leaf and
folding the leaf through mid-vain for which in locally called as haladi pitha. This is
festival to celebrate the wellness of the eldest child in the family. It is also stuffed with
coconut, boiled green gram and sugar fillings. The batter-filled folded leaves are then
cooked over steam. Its shelf -life is about two days. Enduri pitha is a traditional delicacy
and show cases the medicinal properties of turmeric plant. Most of the Ayurvedic
physician has said that by eating the extract of turmeric leaves through this traditional
food in winter helps in the strengthening of the immune system (Roy et al., 2007).
Munha pitha
To prepare of munha pitha, par-boiled rice powder and black gram paste are
mixed in the ratio 3:1. Sugar or jaggery, minced coconut, raisins and cashew
(Anacardium occidentale L.) nuts may be added to the fermented batter for delicacy.
Sufficient water is taken in a handi (large mouthed pitcher), and a piece of cloth is tied
over its mouth keeping a shallow cavity (Fig. 8). When the water starts boiling, a thick
batter is poured over the cloth. An empty handi is kept upside down over the previous
one to capture the steam. The continuously generated steam cooks the material, and
completion of cooking is checked by inserting sharp object through the centre of the
batter mass and observing if the batter has stuck to the surface. No adherence of batter to
10
the object indicates completion of cooking even at the centre. A good quality munha
pitha becomes spongy like idli (another popular South-Indian food item) and it is served
by cutting into pieces. The shelf life of munha pitha is 1-2 days and it is taken with sugar
or curry. Munha pitha is prepared during different festivals, particularly during raja
Podo pitha
Podo pitha (Fig. 9) is a slow-cooked pitha. During the preparation of podo pitha,
fermented batter (fermented rice and black gram) is mixed with minced coconut, raisins,
cashew nuts and sugar .The mixture is packed using sal (Shorea robusta C.F.Gaertn) or
banana (Musa paradisiaca L.) leaf. The packets are then covered all round with hot
charcoal in an earthen oven to bake in low but continuous heat for 5-10 hours. After
preparation, the product is slightly burnt, while the inside is soft and white. The pitha is
cut into pieces and served. Podo pitha has a shelf life of 2-3 days and is consumed like
munha pitha. It is prepared during different festivals including bijaya dasami and raja
festivals.
In the preparation of podo pitha, rice and black gram dal are soaked over night,
separately. Both the ingredients are grinded into a thick batter. After addition of common
salt to the rice- dal batter, it is allowed to ferment for 2 to 4 hours. The mixed batter is
rapped in a banana or sal leaves and roasted in an oven or earthen oven with help of
charcoal.
FERMENTED BEVERAGES
Toddy
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Toddy is an alcoholic drink made by the fermentation of the sap from date tree
(Phoenix sylvestris L.) or coconut palm (Cocus nucifera L.). It is white in color and sweet
in taste with a characteristic flavor. It contains 4-6% alcohol and has a shelf-life of 24
hour. The sap is collected by slicing off the tip of an un-opened peduncle of these trees.
The sap oozes out and can be collected in a small pot tied underneath the peduncle. The
fermentation starts as soon as the sap is collected in the pots, particularly if a small
amount of toddy is left in the pot earlier. The toddy is fully fermented within 6 - 8 hours.
The product is usually sold immediately due to its short shelf- life (Fellows, 1997). Due
to the short life span the fermented sap is usually stored in glass or plastic bottle.
Fermented fish products are important dietary components in the protein deficient
costal belt of Odisha, particularly in un-divided Balasore, Cuttack, Puri and Ganjam
districts. Marine fish preservation is universally done either by (i) adding salt or (ii) not-
adding salt.
This method of preservation still enjoys popularity in many developing countries owing
to its simplicity and low cost of processing. When fatty fishes are salted, there is usually a
certain degree of fermentation involved (Takagi et al., 1984; Panda et al., 2011).
Fermentation of fish is brought about by autolytic enzymes from the fish and
microorganisms in the presence of high salt concentrations (Panda et al., 2011). Several
salted and non-salted fish products are available in the eastern part of the Odisha and it is
very popular among the costal belt peoples. Few important ones are discussed below.
12
Dry salted hilsa ( Fig.10 ) fish is prepared from the high fat (14-25%) content
adult hilsa or Ilisha. This product is a very popular product and widely consumed in all
part of Odisha mainly due to its typical flavour, aroma and texture. Excess catch from
Bay of Bengal or Chilika Lake particularly during rainy season promote the villages to
salt fermented hilsa fish. A typical dry salted hilsa has a uniform pink colour with a
glossy appearance (Fig. 10 ). The texture remains farm and the flesh does not easily
Salted hilsa is traditionally prepared by dry salting the longitudinally cut hilsa
The fermentation period is usually 4-6 months. After fermentation, the fishes are allowed
to dry under shade for 10 to 15 days. The self-life of the dried sated hilsa is about 12 to
18 months; in some cases properly dried fishes can be preserved for two years.
Preparation of the dry salted Khainga fish preparation is almost similar to the dry
salted Hilsa preparation. The catch is usually made from sea or Chilika Lake. This
fermented fish has its own flavor and taste. The fermentation period is usually 4-6
months and like hilsa, the fermented fishes are dried under shade for 10 to 15 days. The
Rice field fishes and fresh water pencil fishes (i.e., Nannostromus beckfordi) are
used widely for the preparation of dry fishes. The fish are harvested in plenty during the
month of June and July. The fishes are washed properly and then sun-dried in open or
13
some time directly in the gunny bags. In some cases, the washed fishes are submerged in
to the turmeric water for few hours and then allowed for sun drying. The sun drying of
the fishes is continued for 20 to 25 days under direct sun light. The non-salted fishes are
stored in the gunny bags or bamboo baskets for further use; the self life of these types of
non-dried fish is very short, in most cases less than six months.
Prawns and shrimps are preserved in a similar ways as small fish. They are
washed, sun dried in open and graded in to size and then packed under sealing for
transporting to market.
There are few fermented milk based products in the state such as curd and cheese
These are common fermented milk products prepared and consumed at household
levels. The preparation methods are same as followed in other parts of India and hence,
Chhenapoda (Fig. 11), literally known as burnt sweet cheese, is a special type
cheese-based sweetmeat, has its origin in Odisha in the 20th century and very popular in
the state and elsewhere. It is made of well-kneaded homemade cottage cheese, sugar,
cashew nut and raisins and is baked slowly for several hours in oven until it turns brown.
Chhenapoda is the only well known Indian dessert whose flavor is predominantly derived
from the caramelization of sugar. Its shelf- life is usually 3-4 days.
14
There are many forest based fermented products. Two important ones are:
the fermented bamboo (Bambusa arundinacea L) shoot is known as karadi. The tips of
youngling bamboos are collected, sliced into pieces and then dipped in water for a day to
off. This fermented bamboo is usually produced during June-September when bamboo
shoots sprout. It is cooked along with locally available vegetables such as taro
(Colocasia), cucumber (Cucumis sativus L., potato (Solanum tuberosum L.), brinjal
(Solanum melongena L.), etc. Karadi is sometimes pounded and sun-dried. The
powdered form is locally called as handua, which is cooked as curry throughout the year
peoples in Odisha. Usually, in the preparation of mahuli, the flowers are thoroughly
washed in water and submerged in plastic drums or tanks for a period of four days with
the addition bakhar (syn. ranu) (Dhal et al., 2010; Sharma and Biswal, 2010).
another earthen pot on the top of the first container in a reverse manner (Fig.12 ). The
15
joints of two vessels are sealed by using sticky pond mud. A metallic pipe is connected to
the upper earthen vessel, which passes through water and opens to a collecting vessel.
The lower metallic container containing fermented mahula flower mass was heated at low
temperature with wood fire (Behera et al., 2012). Finally steam is condensed in metallic
pipe and collected in collecting vessel. The traditional distillation process is described
graphically in the Fig 13. The alcohol (ethanol) concentration in the distilleries varies
between from 30 - 40%. The distillate produced from mahula flowers alone (10 kg) and
mahula + sugar cane molasses (4 kg mahula flowers and 6 kg molasses) are 6.5 and 9
The preparations of these fermented foods and beverages, like any other part in
the world, have remained a traditional village art practiced in homes in a crude manner.
units and increase in mobility, there is a gradual inclination of the newer generation
towards the modern fast foods, under-estimating their own traditional foods. Some of the
traditional fermentation processes are somewhat cumbersome and time consuming, and,
hence, many of them are being replaced by industrially processed and convenience foods,
often based on technology imported from urban conglomerate. The unfortunate outcome
of this replacement is the inevitable loss of traditional know-how and much valued
resources before it is fully understood and harnessed for the future generations.
Traditional processing methods are sometimes not ideal and there is ample scope for
16
improvements. But nevertheless, as these techniques developed based on trial and error
through generations they take into account all the constraints given by the environment
and the culture. They can reveal the value of traditional techniques and people can be
REFERENCES
Battcock. M., Azam-Ali, S., Fermented fruits and vegetables a global perspective. Daya
Behera, S., Ray, R. C., Swain, M. R., Mohanty, R.C., and Biswal, A.K., Traditional
Roy, A., Moktan, B., and Sarkar, P., Traditional technology in perpetrating legume-based
2007.
Dhal, N.K., Pattanaik, C., and Reddy, C.S., Bakhar starch fermentation-a common tribe
Panda, S.H., Ray, R.C., Sheikha, A.F.E., Montet, D. and Worawattanamateekul, W.,
Fermented fish and fish products- an overview. In: Aquaculture Microbiology and
Publishers, Inc. / CRC press, Boca Raton, USA, pp. 132- 172, 2011.
17
Panda, T., and Padhy, R., Sustainable food habits of the hill-dwelling Khanda tribe in
105, 2007.
Ray, R.C. and Shivkumar, P.S.,. Traditional and novel fermented foods and beverages
from tropical root and tuber crops: review. International Journal of Food Science
Sharma, A.K., and Biswal, A.K., Use of potential medicinal plants in the indigenous
Meryl Dekker.
Takagi, T., Hayashi, K., and Itabashi, Y., Toxic effect of free unsaturated fatty acid in
mouse assay of diarrhetic shellfish toxic by intra-peritoneal injection. Bullettin of
Japan Science of Fish, 50; 1413-1418, 1984.
Tamang, J.P., Sarkar, P.K., and Hesseltine, C.W. Traditional fermented foods and
beverages of Darjeeling and sikkim-a review. Journal of The Science of Food and
Table 1. Local names used in this text and their appropriate english meaning
Boiled rice
Handia
Raw rice
Chitou pitha
Figure 7. Steps in the preparation of legume based traditional fermented food (Roy et
al., 2007; modified).
26
Figure 8. Steps in the preparation of legume based traditional fermented food (Roy et
al. 2007; modified).
27
Figure 12. Small scale traditional mahuli distillation process from fermented mahula
flower. Dotted white arrow: Metallic pipe connected to the upper vessel, Black arrow:
Mud water, through which metallic pipe passes and it helps in condensing vapors to
Figure 13. (a) Large scale traditional mahuli distillation plant (b) Outer sketch of large