WATER WALL INSTRUCTIONS 2009

Congratulations
On the purchase of this water wall kit to make it easy for YOU to install a vibrant and attractive water
feature in your courtyard or alfresco area. Pump and fittings are included and are sized for either a wall
washing application or a projecting water blade application.

Typical Wall Washing Installation

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Typical Projecting Installation

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Typical Installation Details

Front View

Pond size must be at least 100mm longer either side of water wall header unit
when used as a wall washing unit. At least 200mm longer either side of water
wall header unit when used as a Projecting unit.

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Side View
Must be at least
200mm from back of 30 / 50mm 82mm H x 70mm
water wall header unit.

15 mm

Header Unit must be

well supported from You must be able to have
underneath but not
fixed rigidly at each
easy access the inline
end to allow for heat valve. This is essential for
(weather) related
expansion and
set-up and regulation of
contraction. unit.

If you wont be able to

access it easily behind the
Max. Height
2000mm
wall, then you will need to
position it in the pond
between the pump and
the Pool wall connector.

Minimum
Pond Depth
280mm.

Minimum Pond Width 300mm. Must always

allow for Potential Splash (See page 6)

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Components
TIP- Tubing needs to be
mounted to frame if valves
are to be used within
structure
Water wall Header Unit
Tubing
OPTIONAL In-Line Strainer /
Filter is also placed in
concealed position behind
wall if access is available
Inline Valve

Director

Pool Wall Connector

Pump

Reservoir/ Pond (not supplied in Kit)

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Step 1: Plan
The first step in creating a water wall feature is to plan it. Plan where it is going. Plan how to build it.
There are several questions you need to ask yourself. What area have I got? Do we need council
permission with what we are going to build? Am I going to get someone to do it for me? What type of
effect do we want to create? Can I allow enough room (at least 200mm) behind the feature to be able to
access pipe work etc. if anything goes wrong? Are we going to dig the reservoir in or are you going to have
it above ground and fill in around it? A good idea is to draw it all out and ask the store where you got this
kit from, whether it will work or not. Also refer to
Design Notes in Appendix.

Some Important things to remember is if you want to

create a feature where the water is throwing out from
the wall you will need a lot larger reservoir to
accommodate for the splash. This particularly applies
to the height of the feature. The higher you place
your unit, the more splashes it will create, and the
larger the reservoir is that is going to be required.

As a rule:
Water wall height = Potential Splash Distance (as shown in the picture)

(Step 2: Dig hole for reservoir)

If not digging pond into ground - go to step 3
Once you have decided on the position of your water feature
and purchased the reservoir, if you intend burying your pond,
you will need to dig a hole for the pond.

2.1 Marking the Shape

Place the selected pond at the desired location end mark the contour with stakes along the outer edge of
the pond. Trace the lower zones lying inside on the ground.
2.2 Excavating and filling sand layer
It is best to start excavating the deepest part. The pit should be
wider and deeper by approximately 10cm than the actual pond
shape, because later the pond will be washed in with sand.
Stones and roots must be removed from the pit and an
approximately 10cm thick sand layer filled in to the pit and
compacted.
2.3 Aligning the pond
The pre-fabricated pond is then positioned and aligned with a
spirit level. Here, a bit of timber, placed across the pond, is a

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good help. Before washing in, the pond should be filled to 1/3 with water to prevent the pre-fabricated
pond from floating.

2.4 Washing in the pond

Once the pond has been aligned, the free space between pit and
pond shell will be filled with sand and then washed in with a lot
of water, so that it will not flex out at the sides.
2.5 Filling the pond
Finally, the pond can be completely filled with water.
Note Illustrations for informal shapes but principals are the same for formal (rectangular) shapes.

Step 3: Build wall (and Pond Surround)

You may wish to consult a carpenter or builder about this step. To build wall - dig 600 mm deep holes
where the posts for the wall are to go. Put the posts in the hole and pour concrete down the hole. Make
sure the posts are level until the concrete sets. Once the concrete is set, build a stud wall to go between
the posts and then fix it to the posts.

If you are not digging the pond in, then you have to make the framework for the reservoir and attach it to
the posts. Framework should support pond lip on all sides and not keep pond off the underlying base
which must be used as the major support.

Step 4: Insert Pond

Insert the pond and make sure the lip of the pond sits on the floor/base and in the framework and that the
lip is behind the wall. Put the pump into position. Lay out the hose where it is meant to go. Drill a hole
in the wall of the pond just big enough for the threaded section of the pool wall connector to go through.
Unthread the pool wall connector and feed it through the hole in the wall of the pond. Tighten the flanged
nut on the other side with the two rubber gaskets either side of the pond wall.

Step 6: Install Header Unit

Thread the Director into the header unit (make sure you use Teflon tape on all the threaded fittings.)
Install the water wall header unit at the desired height. This has to be 100% level otherwise the feature
will not work properly. Use packers under the unit, to make sure it is level, if necessary.

Step 7: Run Hose

Put the hose fittings on the pool wall connector and on the pump. Cut the hose at the right length to go
from the pump to the pool wall connector and join it onto the directors (make sure that you have two hose
clamps on the hose before you do.) Join the remaining piece of tubing onto the other side of the pool wall
connector. Join in the inline valve at a point where you can access it even when the wall is clad. Join the
hose onto the header unit and tighten all the hose clamps.

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If In-Line Strainer is used

(recommended with Fish
and/or Plants) it has to be
easily accessible to clean.

Also if In-Line Strainer is used

(recommended with Fish and/or
Plants) it will affect flows and
thus performance as it catches
debris and muck and needs
cleaning out.

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Step 8: Test unit

Fill the pond with water so that the pump is covered. Make sure the inline valve is the open position, and
turn the pump on for a short time to test run the feature. You can adjust the inline valve to a more
desirable output. Make sure there are no leaks in the pipe work.

Step 9: Cladding
If it is all ok then you are ready to finish it off. Clad the wall with Cement sheet. Cut a slot for the lip of the
water wall header unit. Allow a 2 to 3 mm gap (expansion gap) above and either side of the lip of the
water wall header unit. Clad the framework around the pond. Fill in between the pond and the cladding
with sand to stop the pond from bulging out too much. Render the Cement sheet or use Stack stone or
tiles to finish it off. Make sure that the cement sheet and timber is waterproofed. Breaks / grooves may be
required to stop capillary action from diverting water outside pond. See your specialist retailer as to this.

Step 10: Enjoy

Turn the pump on and adjust the inline valve until you get the desired flow rate coming
out the water wall header unit. Sit back relax and enjoy your hard work.

P.S. - Maintenance Maintaining good water quality is essential to ensure long enjoyment of
your water feature and that it keeps its appearance. Bad, hard and polluted water will stain or spoil the
features cladding as well as the header unit. We recommend a regular water change of at least every six
months for small courtyard ponds were no aquatic life is present and evaporation levels are higher.
Additives such as Blagdons Feature Clear or Feature Algae Control are needed in between.

Ponds with fish and plants need to be bigger and deeper to ensure survival of the aquatic life and an in-line
strainer is thus recommended to ensure debris is not pumped through the pump and caught in the header
unit! Biological filtration with U/V clarification would be recommended as desirable in this case.-

Model Header unit Inlets Hose & Fittings Minimum pool size (drop- =
size height of unit above water)
300 Wall Wash Kit 300 mm PVC 1 25 mm 300 x 600 x 300 mm Deep
600 Wall Wash Kit 600 mm PVC 1 25 mm 300 x 900 x 300 mm Deep
900 Wall Wash Kit 900 mm PVC 1 25 mm 300 x 1200 x 300 mm Deep
1200 Wall Wash Kit 1200 mm PVC 2 25 mm 300 x 1500 x 300 mm Deep
300 Water Blade 300 mm PVC 1 32 mm L(300 + twice drop) x W(300 +
Kit drop) x 300 mm Deep
600 Water Blade 600 mm PVC 1 32 mm L(600 + twice drop) x W(300 +
Kit drop) x 300 mm Deep
900 Water Blade 900 mm PVC 1 32 mm L(900 + twice drop) x W(300 +
Kit drop) x 300 mm Deep
1200 Water Blade 1200 mm PVC 2 32 mm L(1200 + twice drop) x W(300 +
Kit drop) x 300 mm Deep

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APPENDIX DESIGN NOTES

The following design notes relate to water blades in general and not necessarily this Kit and thus
recommendations may not always agree.

The Aquablade units are a compact and versatile method of creating both a projecting sheet style water wall
or a wall wash feature wall. They do have certain restrictions in use and application that should be
understood to get the best out of them.

PROJECTING WATERWALL APPLICATIONS

-In the projecting application the Aquablade has the advantages of only showing a narrow slot when properly installed in a wall
and can project the sheet further than non-pressurized units due to the pressure. However they also have disadvantages-, they
are not recommended for many Pond situations, where the relatively high level of biological matter and debris can quickly lead
to blockages and deposits unless installed with an in-line filter, but are primarily used in feature situations with clean and
chlorinated water. Even in this situation an in-line pre-filter is preferred. (In a swimming pool situation driven by comparatively
powerful pumps, we recommend use of a non-return valve (this keeps line full of water and minimizes pressure shocks on start-
up), and a regulating valve, otherwise extreme flows and pressures will force the glued joints apart also see flow
recommendations.)

SHEET DESCENT WATER WALL APPLICATIONS-

In this application Aquablades are used for waterwalls where it is desired to run a sheet of water washing down a wall. The
baffle system allows construction of such a wall without the large header tank that would normally be required, but still allows
for fairly high volume flows to give a full running wall effect. These units also offer a further advantage over a header tank, in
that the spillway is incorporated into the unit, making leveling and leak proof construction easy. The Aquablades also have
advantages over the other alternative a spray bar. Spray bars are notoriously difficult to get right, with endless variation
possible in hole size and spacing- both of which vary the effect and pump performance required. Holes in spray bars are also very
susceptible to blockages from stringy debris and algae, which becomes a constant and serious problem in pond situations with
fish and plants present.

CAUTIONS

Glossy plastics, such as Perspex are susceptible to soiling from dirty water and warping from effects of dramatic temperature
change or extreme pressure. They are also difficult to repair if damaged.

The Aquablades also have the disadvantage that the interior of the unit is basically inaccessible so if anything gets pumped into
it it can be impossible to remove! That is why we stress use of an in-line filter for garden pond/water feature applications

INSTALLATION-

Besides actual mounting in or on the wall, the critical factors in installation of these water wall units are
1) Leveling all units must be installed as level as possible, and any deviance can affect the results achieved. Water is one of the
best indicators of level, so a test run before final installation can help.

2) Expansion and contraction. All units, and particularly plastic units, must be installed with allowance at each end for expansion;
otherwise units can end up distorted. Metal and plastics have very different expansion rates from most materials (concrete and
masonry) used in the walls they are installed into!

3) Structural protection if the unit is not at the top of the wall, provision must be made to support the structure above it
such as a lintel. Never install water wall units so that they become load bearing. If installing a Lintel, consider using corrosion
resistant material as constant exposure to water will cause corrosion in metals.

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LOCATION AND ENVIRONMENT-

There is a need to consider design of the pond and its location when designing and then installing water wall units. All
applications (projecting and non-projecting) in water features or ponds need careful design consideration.

Ensure pond is adequately sized for the water wall unit and its pump. As a broad guideline ensure pond is at least three times
bigger than the minimum expected flow per minute. Pond length and width should be at least twice the design drop, unless
measures are taken to contain and collect splash. Remember that vena contracta from waters inherent surface tension will
cause any projecting sheet to narrow as it falls. This effect is reduced with higher velocities and reducing the height of the drop.
Factors requiring consideration include Splash, Wind, Sunlight, and Noise.

Splash- even the smoothest and most excellent laminar sheet has a considerable splash factor. The higher the water sheet falls
from, the higher the terminal velocity and inertia, and thus also the impact as it hits the pool surface. This impact produces
splash, and the more turbulent the sheet, the greater the splash. Potentially the splash can cover an area of radius equal to the
height of the waterfall. This can cause dampness in the area and gradual water loss in a smaller pond/pool, which will need
replenishment. Sheet descent units running down a wall have minimal splash, unless texture of wall causes water to drop freely
(like stack stone effects). Highly textured walls can also be wind affected, as free falling droplets are caught and carried by gusts
of wind.

Wind- can have considerable effect on a projecting sheet of water. In a sheltered courtyard, problems will be minimized, but
any open location will make it wind susceptible. As the water is forming an unbroken sheet/surface, it is similar in practice to a
sail buffeted by gusts and pushed around (and thus varying the projection). Again, the higher the fall, the more susceptible the
sheet, but heavy laminar flows are less affected. Wall wash units are much less win affected..

Sun- Any large feature water wall (using sheet descent units flowing down a surface) presents a large area of very shallow water,
capable of being solar heated! Note that If the pool or pond is not of sufficient thermal mass (cold and deep), you can be
ensured of gaining some serious algae problems in warmer weather. Make sure the pond can handle a solar hot water heater!
However aspect (North/South/East/West) can influence this effect. Generally avoid north facing walls of large area without large
ponds being incorporated or incorporate or allow for anti-algae treatment device or regular applications of treatments such as
Feature Clear.

Noise as noted before, projecting sheets of water gain velocity and inertia with height. The laws of physics govern these facts
and mean that the more water that hits the surface, and the harder it hits, the more noise there will be. This can be a decided
advantage in masking out traffic or neighbor noise, but in a small space could be overpowering! Wall washing generally does not
cause noise.

FLOW RATES-

* Sheet Descent Applications - Flow rates here are effect dependent and thus requirements will vary with texture and type of
wall to be covered. With low velocity 40 L/Min per Meter of spillway should give 5 mm coverage on the lip of the unit. This
should be regarded as the minimum and we recommend designing on 60 to 75 L/Min per lineal meter and reducing the flow to
suit effect desired!

* Pressurized Projecting Applications Effect and throw are dependent on flow and pressure. Higher pressures are required to
achieve good projection. The flow can be easily reduced by application of gate valves to regulate the flow, but it is very hard to
increase flow from a pump and system already at their maximums! However, too high flows and pressures can damage unit.
We recommend designing on 120 to 150 L/Min per lineal meter and reducing the flow to suit effect desired! DO NOT EXCEED
200 Liters per Minute per Meter. (ie 120 L/min or 7000 L/Hr for a 600 wide unit).

Ask your Retailer for more information on these water wall units. They will also be able to assist with further Design queries you
may have. Copyright Akline 2009

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