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"

@ e

B ook 0 S auces
He rm
'

By C

. an
e nn
"
A uth or o f Pr a ct ic a l G as tro n om y , Th e

Tw e n ti e th Ce n tury Cook ery B oo k , e tc .

Copyright 19 1 5 by C Herm . an Senn

P u b l i s h e d by

T he Hot el M on t hly Pr ess


9 50 M r dis e
e c han M ar t
C hic a go Ill , .

( n 7o
m
PRE FA CE

Si nc e sauce s accompany pract i cally every


dish , whether i t be s av ory ( sh or meat ) or a
sweet, it follows th at sauce mak i ng const i tutes
-

a m ost i mp ortant branch i n co okery A n ap ol .

ogy is th erefore n ar dl y n e eded for th e publica


tion of a volume devot e d entirely to th e art of
p reparing sauces .

It w a s, I bel i eve , th e gr e at ma i tr e ch e f os
-

r eme wh o put a premium on any or i ginal cr e a


t i on in coo k ery . To him i t mattere d l i ttle i f
p eople crit i c i se d adversely new dish es wh i ch h e
i ntro duce d. H e had such c ondence i n h i s
abil i ty to creat e s omething artistic as w e l l a s
origi nal that h e c ould a or d to wa i t wh il e h i s
rivals en deavored to S p o i l th e reputat i on of hi s
H ollandai s e or S alm i s . Today an i nnovat i on i n
c ookery i s subj ected to practically th e s am e r e
of crit i c i sm . O ne s eas on i t i s th e i ntr oduct i on
of a new E ntr e or H ors d oeuvre , th e next th e
-

cul i nary world s i t s in judgment on a certa i n


s auc e which bec ome s fashionable as an adjunct
to a fam ou s E ntr e or E ntremet .

Wh ilst d i scla i ming or i g i nality of th e many


s tandard sauces which ar e treate d in th i s b ook ,
all of which ar e t o b e foun d i n m ost of th e
c omplete cookery manuals , a large number of
comp oun d an d auxiliary s auces combining e n
t i r el y n ew creations h ave b e en i ncluded i n th i s
b ook .

It i s h ope d th at th i s collect i on of s auc e


r e cipes , which i s cla i med to b e th e largest and
m ost c omplete ever publ i sh ed i n on e volume ,
w i ll me e t th e wants of profess i onal c ooks a s
well as amateurs and thus fulll a us eful mi s
,

s i on
. With th e except i on of stan dard an d
sto ck sauces , th e i ngredients given with each
rec i p e are base d t o b e su fcient for a full s erv
i ce of six or s even p ersons .

0 H S
. . .
LIBR
AR "

THE B OOK OF S A UCE S


The Hist o r y of S auce M aki n g .

S auc es , according to the fam ous mai tr es , ch e f s


an d cul inary ar tists o f th e past , Car m e an d
S oye r ,
ar e to cookery what gramm e r is to lan

guage , an d m elody is to music ; wh ilst that int e l
l ectual caus eur, th e M ar quis d e Cussy, go es s o far
as to call th e art i st in sau ces
an enlighten e d

ch e mi st th e cr e ative geniu s of th e high class -

cui si n e
.

Wh en th e practi c e r s t be gan o f ro as t in g foo d


p ar ticularly meat ou th e sp i t , bro ili ng i t on

th e gri diron, and bo iling it in l ar g e cauldr ons ,


s auc e s and gravi es di d not com e into the reckon
ing a s yet , th e inst inctive d e sire for them b eing
satise d inst e ad by various aromat i c h e rbs and
s alin e ( from which is derive d
sal sa, th e word
from wh ich our
sauc e come s ) adj un ct s to th e
m e al It i s , in fa ct , only th e ve ry choicest m o r s els
.

o f meat , and th es e only when prepar e d by th e most


ski l ful h an ds, whi ch , wh en roas t ed fri ed, or gr ill e d
,

ar e foun d savory without s auce , for th es e conta in

sufcient ju ic e to pr event them from being dry


an d i nsipid The E nglishm an even of th e p r ese nt
.

day sc orns th e s auce s of G e rman c ookery ; but i s


glad t o m ak e th e ac qua intanc e of a good Fr ench
sauce se rved with roast , bak ed, or fri e d meat, o r
wi th plain boile d vege tables .

That th e re i s a standi ng n ee d for liquid adj un cts


for food is indisputable The mod ern E nglish
.

method furnish e s a very goo d illustration of the


way in which th e typical sauce , brought to per f ec
tion by the French, has passed through variou s
stage s to th e l ofty emin ence it now holds The .

ancient G r e eks and Romans certainly di d pr epar e


sauce s , but the i rs , as certain others o f to day, not -

o nl y had no methodical relation to th e dishes they


accompani e d , but wer e often glaringly unsuit e d
thereto . For instance , the following two s au ces ,

on e for m e at an d the
4 THE BOOK OF S AU CE S
r ecomm e nded by Ap i cius, th e gr e at Ro man gas

t r on om er of Tib e rius tim e The former is com
.

posed o f p epper , dried herbs , coriand er se ed, ru e , -

sh brine, honey, and a littl e oil , all w ell ground


- -

and thoroughly mixed For th e sauce for mush


.

r ooms th e ingredi e nts ar e : oil , thym e , bean s , cara

way s e e ds , salt , pepper, ginger, wine, and a small


-


quantity of th e mysterious syl phi um , n ow
thought to b e assafoetida It go e s without sayin g
.

that pungent s auce s like th e se must com pl e tel y


ove rpower and al t e r th e i ndividual avor of any
k ind of foo d . Th e cooks of ancient Rom e, m ak in g
a vi rtu e o f necessity, need e d to vi e with e ach oth er
in givi ng quite a di er en t ta s te to th e m e at s th ey
p repare d ; imparting to pork, for i nstanc e, th e a
vor of partri dg e ; t o goose, that of sh; an d t o
tunny, that o f veal Thi s absurd mania r eache s
.

its climax in th e performanc e o f that Fr ench cook


who is said to have prep ared a del iciou s rag out
from a l eath e rn glove " B ut th e sauc e "that

i s my s ecret, m y work of art , my glory "

The cooks of th e M i ddl e A ges wer e rath e r l avish


in th e use o f s alt, p epp e r, and other cond im ent s ,
mu ch more so than those of antiqui ty ; thi s is
s hown by a cookery book by M outardier G il de , pub -

lis he d in 1 3 9 4 S ugar and other sweet substance s


.

wer e also u s ed in abund an ce by the cooks of that


p eriod ; and thus th e sauces aff ected then b e cam e
a heterogeneou s mlange which would almost hor o

r i fy our mod e rn taste Let us take two or thre e


.

examples For r oast goose : chief ingredi ent , milk,


.

s tirred over th e re with our , salt, p epp e r, saf


fron , pound e d al monds , and goose dripping ; th e -


n ame o f this concoction is given as goose milk -
.

S erved with ro ast beef : roasted apples , raisins ,


pepper , nutmeg, ginger , and sugar and port win e
boil e d together and str ai ned , the whole form ing a
Pr
kind of s auce called obe at

We thus see that
.

the M i ddle A ges had but littl e to teach us i n our


culinary a ai r s, an d e specially so far a s s auc e s
ar e concerned .

When the gastronomic reforms begun in al l its


glory under Catherine de M e dicis and A nne of
Austria revealed French cookery ( the basis of all
good in ternational cookery i n our own time s ) it
was perceived that the one and o nl y use of a
T HE B OO K or saucx s 5

s auce w as to height e n the avor of a sp ecial dis h .

It wa s M ar per ge r who in 1 71 8 i nstituted the use


, ,
a
of th e word tunk e in Germany for s uc e
proper, to di stinguish it more accurately fro m
gravy wi th which th e
,
G erman name sause

o r sul z e wa s apt to be co n fuse d E ven now th e .


word for s auce in Low German is tunke or
stippe the characte r istic of this preparatio n
,

in some parts of Germany bein g that it is of a



c onsistency to all ow of t h e p e ople dipping ( tunk

ing or sti ppin g ) morsels of s olid food in it ;
Whil e in their thin gravy on the other hand , they
would let the piec e s swim till dis s olved th e whol e ,

be ing the n drunk a s liquor A correct sauc e is


.

that wonderful production of the cul inary art


whi ch forms so pleasant and exqui s i t e an aec om
a n i m e n t to all kin ds of sh , m e at poultry and
p , ,

game or vegetabl e s
,
. Th e onion avor ed cr eam -


s auc e S oubise is said to h ave been invente d
by th e Lord H igh S teward the M arquis d e
B ch amel , whilst history tells us that th e brown

onion S auce Robert owes i ts n am e by being
th e h e ad cook of K i ng Fran ci s I .

The skill and knowledge of a cook i s shown in


no othe r part of th e culinary art so prominently
than in the way in which his or her sauces ar e
prepare d To be able to make a perf e ct s au ce i s
.

ind eed th e height in th e art of cooking .

Th e most s impl e dis h es can be made r el ishabl e b y


the addit i on of a good plain sauc e whilst the most ,

r e cher che dishe s can b e improved and be mad e


still mor e palatable by a well made sauce , j ust as
-

a good painting i s made s marte r by b eing var

Sauc e s i n coo k ery may b e termed th e e ss e nc e of


e l e gan ce of d ishes with which th ey ar e se rve d .

B efore we enter into the various d eta ils o f pr ep


ar ation of the compositions of sauces , I am an xious
to point out that every sauce, wheth er plain or
r i ch , must posses s a deci dedly distinct avor and
character There are many plai n sauc e s whi ch are
.

made quickly and of materials usu all y at hand .

Le t these be a s the name implies, si mple and pur e,


so that they may merely taste of the materi als
employe d , from which such s auces take their name .

Richer sauces always require a long e r and slower


p r o cess for th e ir preparati o n .
6 THE B OO K or S AUCE S
Unt il th e be ginning of th e n in eteen th cen tur y,

th e art of sauce maki ng was har dl y known i n E n g


l and . Th e charge made at that tim e against the
E nglish nation by a celebrated e pi gr am m i st, who
s ai d that we had many religion s but only one sauc e ,
would h ardly hold goo d to day, for i t is reckon ed
that there are at least 65 0 di ff erent sauc es and
gravies known at th is moment An ingenious cook
.

wi ll have as littl e trouble to form that number of


sauces i n di er e n t varieties , as a mu sician with hi s
seven notes, or a painter with his pallet and col
ors ; nor is it too much t o assert that ther e i s no
other branch in cookery which o ff ers better oppor
tun i ti es to display the ability of a cook than this .

The art of sauce making consist s in preparing


l i qu i ds from variou s materials by cleverly e xtract
ing and combining certain avors into the liqu i d .

B e s i des this th e gift of a good palat e is essent i al ,


which likewise requires all the experience and sk ill
o f the most accomplished cook, as well a s a thor
ough knowledge of the taste of those for whom h e
or she i s cooking .

D i s ti nc ti o n b e t w een S auce s an d Gr avi e s : As


there are m any people who do not know the dis
tinction betwe e n sauce s and gravi es , i t i s n eces
sary to devote a few words to thi s subj ect, so as to
make this quit e clear A gravy is not a sauce ,
.

but s imply the j uice s of meat ( roast e d or bra ise d


meat ) seasoned but without being thickened , whilst
a sauce may be dened , using the most general
term , as a liquid s e asoning containing some kind of
liaison or thickening which i s employed in th e
presentation of food .

A ccording to th e chief dictionaries , a gravy m ay


be called a sauce , although a sauce is not always
a gravy M any of the grande sauce s contain gra
.

vi e s for their foun d ation which ar e used in a


c oncentrated form to enrich the avor of s uch
s auces It i s therefore mor e d i stinctive to call
'

liquids pure and simple gravies , and liquids thick


e ned with our or oth e r ingredients sauces , such

as l i aisons , thickenings or bindings .

Li ai so n s : The variou s p rocesses of th i cken i ng


sauces as well as soups are ca lled liaisons There .

are si x distinct methods known for thi ckening


s auc e s :
T HE B OO K or SAUCE S 7
1 . Liai son wi th r oux .

2 . Liai son with eggs .

3 . Liaison with butt e r and cream .

4 . Liais on with kneaded butter an d our .

5 . Li aison with blood .

6 . Liaison with c or n our , arrowroot , o r


fe cula .

R o ux : The most po p ular and m ost gen eral l y


adopted thickening i s e ff e cted by means of roux .

It is therefor e necessar y to rst give a few detail s


to den e th e word ro ux in regard to its cul inar y
meaning .

L iterally th e word mean s ru sse t but in the cul ,

i n ar y sense it is a m ixtur e of our and butt er


cooked or blended to certain degrees , to whi te , to
brown , or to fawn colors The quantity of our .

and butter e mploye d are used in equal propo r


tions If made beforehand i n large or small quan
.

tities , i t should be kept i n covered j ars wh e n it ,

will keep good for months A tablespoonful i s .

usually found su fcient t o thicken a pint o f liqu id .

S tock roux must always b e kept in a cool p la ce


-

and ready at hand for us e .

If used cold it may be mix e d with cold or h o t


s tock, but if m i xed cold , it must be st irr e d c o n
st an tly over th e re until boilin g ; or if m ixed
hot , th e liqui d should be poured by degrees int o
th e roux away from th e r e, and then stirr e d over
the r e till it boils .

Speci al precaution must always be exercise d in


making a sauce wi th a roux thickening that th e ,

temperatur e is lowered or , in other words , that


,

th e roux is allowe d to cool a little before the l iqui d


stock or gravy is added T his will preven t th e .

sauce from getting lumpy, and will do much


t owards making a sauce perfectly smooth A ll .

roux must be stirred constantly during the proc ess


of cooking 6 frying
,
. .

Whi t e R o ux ( Roux B lan c ) : T his i s a m i xtur e


of our and water , cooked in a stew pan , on a -

moderate re , without allowing it to attain any


color whereby i t should r etain its original white
,

color .

B l o n de or P awn R o ux ( Roux B lond ) : T hi s i s


made by melting a certain quantity of butter and ,

stirring in the same or a l ess quantity of si fte d


8 THE B OO K or sa ucs s

our , an d by cooking it over a slow re or in the


oven until it has acquired a light blonde or fawn
color .

B r o wn R o ux ( Roux B run ) : T his i s th e so calle d -

S tock Roux, which can be prepared in large quan


-

tities to be used cold as require d as b e for e


explained .

It is made exactly in the sam e manner as th e


foregoing with the exception that it i s fri e d
,

longer until it becomes a darker color , a ch e st


nut brown or russet brown It i s best to ni sh
, .

the roux in a slack oven for the slower the proces s ,

the better the blending and the ner the aroma


of th e sauc e will subsequ e ntly be .

R o ux L i ai son : T his l i ais on i s mad e by p ouring


p repared strained stock gradually into the stew
pan containing the roux, which , as before ex
plain e d , must be allowed to co ol off a littl e T he .

contents i s then stirred over a slow r e until i t


boils , an d is th en allowed t o simmer until i t a t
t ains th e des i re d consistency With brown an d .

blonde sauces th e roux employed is usually m ade



up w i th a mirepoix t o introduc e th e nec essary

av or i n gs This item
. mirep oix is more fully
e xp la i n ed furth er on .

E gg L i ai so n : This i s a thi cken i ng c omp o s e d of


yolks of eggs beaten up and diluted with a small
quantity of cream milk, or co l d white stock C ream
, .

is more often used than stock The sauce to which .

thi s liaison i s added must necessarily be boiling,


it i s then removed to th e side of the stove , when
a l adleful of sauce i s stirred into the egg mixture ,
th e n the whole is poured into the sauce and stirred ,

over th e re ( slow ) for several minutes, without


e r m i tt l n it to boil
p g .

E very sauc e or soup which i s th i ckened with


eggs shoul d be passed through a tammy befor e
it can be served This liaison is used largely for
.

blan quettes white rago uts , an d fricasss as well


,

as for soups .

B utt e r an d Cr e a m Li ai s o n s : B utter an d cream


are i ncorporated in equal proportions into sauces
and soups just before they are wanted for serving
, .

S tir vigorously without reheating The avor of .

any s auce would become alter e d if butt e r or cream


T HE B OO K or sa ucx s 9

wer e a d ded too soon , or if a sauce we re aga in


allowed to boil The s ame may be sai d of butte r
.

lia isons B y this process a quantity of cold fresh


.

butter i s a dded in small bits to sauces the moment


they are taken off the r e , they are then stirred
wi th a wh isk and served without be ing reh eate d .

Kne ad e d B u tt e r Li ai so n : Inco rp orate or kn ead


as much our into butter as it will absorb to form
a soft paste and to m ix i t in small portions into
,
.

a thin sauce ( hot ) stirring it constantly until all


,

the butter i s melted constitutes what is call e d a


,

kneaded butter liaison .

B l oo d Li ai so n : Th i s i s m ostly use d w i th h are


or other game entr e sauces It is made by pre .

s erving th e bloo d of h are or game to which is ,

added a little vinegar to prevent it from coagul a t


ing ; it is then strained through a n e si eve, and
stirred gradually into sauces a few minutes before
s erving This kin d o f liaison is but little us ed
.

n ow .

Li ai so n s : A rrowro ot , c orn our ,


Far i n ac e o u s -

potato our , rice our ( f gulaa) , or other s imi lar


-

far inaceous preparations are frequently used for


thickening sauces D ilute one or th e other of th es e
.

with a little milk, cold stock, or water , pour it


through a strainer into boili ng liquid , stir conti n
ual l y until it boils then simmer gently for ten or
,

fteen m i nutes longer .

M i r ep o i x :Alth ough t h e word mi re p o i x i s a


common term in culinary matters , it does not in
the least imply or make cl e ar what i t constitut es .

It is one of the many words which th e gastronomic


authorities ought to abolish an d substitut e with a
more appropriate one , one that conveys more
clearly the meaning of th e composition of the title
it bears H istory tells us that M irepo ix was a
.

D uk e whose wife being a clever cook, becam e a


favorite with Louis "
,

V I however fail to see .


, ,

what thi s has to do with this culinary adj unct


used in the preparation of sauces and soups ,
brai s es , and stews To come to the point , let me
.


explain that a mirepoix is nothing less than
an essence or extract of me at and vegetables on e ,

of the most useful preparatio n s to impart avor


10 T HE B OO K or S AUCE S
of exquisite richness in various ki nds of s auc e s,
soups , and oth e r culinary preparations .

To make a mirepo ix properly, use the followi n g


i ngredient s : lb bacon ( ham or gammon ) cut
.

into small p i ec es , 1 carrot ( slic es ) , 1 or 2 bay


le aves , a sprig of thyme , 2 s mall onions ( slic e d ) ,
a clove of garl i c , 2 shallots .

Fry thes e carefully without actual ly brown ing ,


and the mirepoix proper will be complet e It will .

afterward s , ac cording to requirements be diluted ,

and boil e d up with wine, sherry, chablis , sauterne ,


or claret , which will be added to stock or to s auce
to s immer in it and to give it the desired avor .

M any chefs d o not consid e r a mirepoix compl e t e


with out a certain quantity of veal or other lean
m e at , being added This I maintain t o be waste
.

ful , as th e stock employed should c ontain th e


n ecessary avor of meat n eeded The addition .

of bacon or h am h as , on th e oth er h and , quite a


di e r e n t e e c t as t o its avor and I cannot ,

s p e ak t o o highly of it .

E ss en c e s of M e at e t c : E ss e nc e s o r e xtracts o f
, .

meat, sh, poultry, and game are largely employe d


in the various s auce preparations Thes e are d e .

coctions or conc e ntrat e d liquid s containing as


much as possible of the avors which by certain ,

process es are reduc e d to the consistency of half


glaz e.

T o m ak e an E ss ence : Th e mater i als from wh i ch


the essence take s its nam e are put in a stew pan -

with a quantity of rich stock, wine , vegetables , and


herb avoring When s ufciently simmered th e
.

liquor i s strained into anoth e r stew pan , and when -

th oroughly ski mmed and freed from fat it is r e


duce d to the consist e ncy n e eded and put by for
u s e when required .

The following ess e nces ar e tho s e most fr e qu e ntly


used in high clas s kitchens :
-

H am e ssence , tr ul e essence, sh e ssence , mush


room essence , chicken essence rabbit essence , gam e ,

essence , pheasant, woodcock, snipe, partridg e and


l ark essence , etc .

These es s ences are, of course , used to enrich


'

certain sauces so as to make their characteristic


,

avor more conspicuous I t is needless to add that . .


T HE ,
B OO K or S AUCE S 11

th e us e of e ss ences is only adopted for ve ry r i ch


s auces , etc .

a et : A fum e t i s v e ry much th e s am e p r e p a
t i on a s esse nces , but much richer , being reduc e d
wi th sh e rry or madeira win e Fumet , in other .

wor d s , may be termed the avor being in r e ali ty ,

the condensed steam whi ch rises from c ertain


co oke d and raw meats , game or poultry wher e by , ,

a most exqui sit e and agr eeable avor is obtain ed .

For a fumet the raw in gredients r e quir ed ar e


u sually saut e ed in the rst instanc e after whi ch ,

a bouquet of herbs , stock, and wine are added for


r e duction p urpos es .

F o unda ti o n S auce s: A ll
th e great s au ce s , as
th ey are called in France , have either well reduce d
st ock or essenc es for th e ir foundation E spagno l e , .

Velout , A llemande , and B chamel , ar e the nam es


of the four s auces known as les grandes sauces

,

though the actual leading foundation sauc es ar e


a brown and a whit e sauc e .

E sp agn o l e an d B cham e l : T h e s e ar e j us tl y
termed the A dam and E ve o f all their other prepar
a ti on s, b e caus e from thes e an e n dl ess var i e ty of

sauc e s can be made .

I f we look into th e abov e statem e nt conce rnin g


th e four grande sauce s mor e cl osely we nd that ,

E s p agnole i s a brown sauce , whil st the other thr ee


ar e whi t e sauc e s Th is must str ike the un in i t iat e d
.

as somewhat odd , because only one brown s au ce


is r e cognize d wher e a s in cookery a brown sau ce
,

is use d at l ea s t thre e tim e s as often as a whit e


sauce . It is furthermore curious or apparently ,

so , to not e that th e brown sauce which the French


cu isi ne r e co gnizes a s the sauce shoul d be cal l e d
S panish ( E spagnole )

.

Th e white s auce has two variet i es the B ch am el ,


and A llemande or Velout It would however b e
.
, ,

much mor e dist inctive to recognize but two kinds


of s auc e s as foundation or grande sauces viz : ,
.

Th e E spagnole ( S pan ish ) and the B cham el ,


whi ch are unquestionably the two leading sauc es
in cookery and as such is the case the y deserv e
,

to receive special recogn ition .

S a uce E
sp agn o l e v e r su s B r o wn S a uce : Th er e
are many people who imagine that E spagnole sauce
12 T HE B OOK or SAUCE S
i s noth ing mor e than an ord inar y b r own s au ce .

Th e French cuisin e practically owes much of its


advancement in cookery to S pain , although the
French have excell e d the S pan ish cuisine by a l ong
way S panish cooke ry was at one tim e the pioneer,
.

when no doubt th is sauc e was i ntroduced into


Franc e , an d such b e ing th e case , i t cannot b e
wondered at that th e French cooks have stuck
to the name of so important a sauc e, which they
have adopt e d a s th e i r chi e f brown s au c e .

Th e gr eat s ecr e t about thi s brown s auc e c on s ist s


i n th e h am m y avor whi ch is bl e nded into the
,

sauce i n such a skilful mann er , whi ch makes it


s up e rior and distin guis habl e from an ordinary
b rown s auc e .

M uch of th e s uc ce s s of a b rown sau cea fund a



m ent al s auce d epend s upon th e manner in which
the our i s blended , or, to b e more correct , roast e d .

T he principl e of roast ing our i s practically the


s am e in every inst ance although there are a num
,

b e r of ways of introducing the roast avor into a


brown sauce To illustrat e my meaning in this
.

resp e ct , l e t us take th e roasting of co ff e e a s an


example which will give us som e i d e a a s to what
,

happ e ns in roast ing our f or a sauc e We know .

that wh e n co ff ee i s prop e rly roast e d it s aromatic


q ualitie s ar e dev eloped ,
wh e r eby certa i n salts and
volatil e oil s are blended , br ing ing out an excellent
ar oma, wh i ch by m e re boil ing of th e b e rr y could
n ever be attained .

Th e r esul t obtain e d by torr e fact i on i s not m e r ely


a ch ange of color and an access of fragrance, but
also th e development of qualities which aff e ct th e
human frame , which exhilarate the nervou s sys
tem The process of ro asting our an d th e s ub
.

s equ e nt result i n s auc e s i s to a certain extent th e


s am e . To roast the our to a nut brown co lo r -

develops a fragrance o f th e most exqu i site avo r ,


which will ultimately b e i ncorporated i nto th e
sauce or s auce s .

T im e required for cooking : In cook ing thi s a s


well as other sauce s which require a process of
,

long cooki ng it should be remembered that a sauc e


,

must s immer long enough to clear and have the fat


separat e d and com e to th e surfac e so that it can
,

be skimmed off .
a
THE B OO K or SA UCE S 13

Th e intro duction of ham or lean bacon , th is ,

being more often use d than ham into the lea di ng ,

brown sauce i s but one out of m any oth er way s of


incorporating a so called smoky or hammy avor
-

which makes th e E spagnol e so charact e ristic an d ,

there is no question as to whether thi s addition


real ly improves the avor, for I can assert with
every condence that the be st French cooks put
ham wi th due discretion into practically every rst
cl ass brown meat sauc e of brown meat soup W e .

do n ot , th erefore, n ee d any further con vi ction as


to th e u s e ful ne ss of ham in brown sauces .

It is well worth noting that although th e addi


t i on of ham is excellent for brown sauc e prepara
ti ons th e introduction of anyt hing approaching
,

th e avor of ham into white sauces has just th e


opposite e ff ect being entirely opposed to its char
,

act e r This shows at once that the nature of white


.

sauc e is produced by blending and ebullition al one ,


s o a s to keep it quit e fre e from any of the smoky
or incal esc ent avors .

B cham el V el o ut e an d O ther Whi te S au ces :


,

S auces of this clas s n ee d not al ways be essen


ti a ll y whit e for very oft e n they ar e of a cre amy ,
,

ye l low o r greenish tint ; but th e whi t e sauc es ,

th e foun d ation sauces proper ar e the re sult of ,

h e
wh at as alrea d y b e n explained viz a blend .

i ng of our and butt e r, perfected by a c e rt ain


a mount of ebullition which i n th e rst stag e
,

b e c omes a white c oulis or a velout e , wh i ch i s


,

s ubse quently e nrich e d wi th cream, yo lk s o f


e ggs or butt er i n ord er to gi ve it th e requi re d
, ,

di stin ct i v e charac te r .

B r own S auc es : Th e bro wn s au c e on th e oth e r ,

h and h as to go through a process of ro astin g in



,

the rs t i nstance viz th e prep aration of th e .

brown roux which is ro as ting our an d butter


, ,

t o i mp art th e distinctiv e avor This i n ad di .


,

tion to th e bo i ling an d s i mmeri ng process e s by


which th e various meats v eget ables and oth e r , ,

in gr e di e nts are prepared produc es a brown sauc e , .

Pl ai n or S i mpl e S a uc es : It must be rem e m


b ere d th at ordin a ry sauces prep are d on the ,

qui ck system should be al lowed to boil at le as t


,

ten m i nutes from th e tim e th e l i quid is added .

Wh en a s auc e is co oked l e ss than t e n mi nut es ,


14 T HE B O OK or S AUCE S '

th e ou r w i ll n ot h av e h ad t i me t o develop its
full avor for s auces , and th e butter only par
t i al l y s eparates , which gi ves to th e sauc e a
gr e asy appearance .

O v er c oo k i n g of S a u c e s : It som e t i mes h ap p e ns
that by some oversight or error a sauc e i s
c o oked so long that it b ecomes oily In this cas e .

a littl e c old st ock , c old milk or water sh ould


b e added , and if th e sauce is stirred unt i l i t
'

b egin s to boil it wi ll again becom e p e rf e ctly


smooth , but it must n ot on any acc ount b e
allowed t o boil any longer It must b e r e moved
.

from th e re immediately before i t actually


boils .

E rr o r i n O v er se asoni n g: M any a pla i n s auce


i s sp oilt by c ooks wh o are too fond of using
S p i cy av or i n gs They seem to me to b e unable
.
'

t o m ak e a sauce wi th out adding on e or m ore


d ash es of bottled s auces , spices , etc , thinking .

th at the s e additions mus t n e c e ssarily b e an i m ~

p rovem e nt This practic e , I need hardly say, i s


.

a much m i staken on e , for such additions oft e n


over po w e r th e ess e ntial, n atural avor of th e i r
p lain s auces , by ov e rlo ading th e m with i ngr e
di en t s which ar e unp al atable A plain s auc e ,
.

as a rule , ne eds n othing in th e way of s e as oning,


except s alt and pepper, to bring out th e avor
an d to st i mulate or awaken th e p alat e T ho s e .

wh o wish for pi quancy o f avor will always n d


m e ans to s at i sfy th e i r wants fro m th e c ruet .

Char ac t er i s ti c of S auce s an d S e aso ni n g : No


matter wh at th e ch aracter of a s auc e may b e ,
r emember that in all compoun d sauces , wh eth e r
plai n or r i ch , th e rule for se as oning and av or
ing i s th e s ame in every cas e : th at is , th e ingr e
di e n t s use d fo r this purpos e sh ould b e so pro
portioned th at n o avor predomin ates over th e
o th er , so th at by a careful an d judicious c om
bin ation of avors th e sauce or sauces pr e p ar ed
wi ll not fail t o b e acceptable t o th e palat e of
th e most rened gourmet .

Coo k s D u t y R e g ar di n g T as t e : Furth ermore ,


rememb er that it i s a cook s duty to study th e


l ik e s and dislikes as to seasoning an d avoring


of th os e for wh om she or h e works , whereby
c e rt ai n i ngredients for e v e ry sauc e must n eces
T HE B OO K or S AUCE S 15

sar i l y be i n cr e as ed or lessened accord in g to


taste If t hi s i s d on e , n o on e n ee d f ail t o be
.

come master of the art of s auce making so far -

as t he e xtraction an d c ombination of avors in


s auc e s ar e c oncern e d .

On R e ducti o n of S auc es : We re d uc e or
t he
boil d own s auces to give the m th e nec essary
s trength an d c onsistency Thi s is usua lly th e .

case with the compou nds into which stocks ,

e ssenc e s , fumets , etc , h ave be en inc orp orat e d :


.

th ese are added for th e express purpos e of r e


d uction , and sh ould b e i n a c oncentrated form ,

s o as to lessen as much as p ossibl e th e labor of


boiling or simmering A ll s auc es wh ich n e e d to .

be r e duc ed must b e strained and fre e d from


fat ; th ey must b e put on a quick re at rst ,
an d must b e st i rred with a wo oden spatul a or
sp oon t o prev e nt th e sauc e from adhering to the
bottom of th e s auc e p an in which th e sauce is
put Th e nec es sary quan tity of sto ck , etc , re
. .
.

quired for its improvement is n ext a dd e d ; it is


th en allowed t o boil until it has acquire d th e
desired c onsistency : wh en th i s is e ff ected th e
s auc e i s p assed through a t ammy cloth .

V ar i o us Ki n ds of S auce s : H aving e xplai n e d


th e di fference between whit e an d brown sauces ,

an d hav i ng given minute d etails of th e var i ous


thickenings ( liai sons ) , as well as oth er i mpor
t ant points c oncern ing s auc es an d th eir p repara
t i on , I will n ow gi ve a list o f th e various sauc e s
wh i ch are mos t frequently used in c o oke ry .

There are two groups of s auc es :


I . Hot S auce s : Th ese are d i vi d e d i nt o t h r ee
s e ctions :
( ) Pl ain
1 .
( ) S
2 avory .
(3) S w e et .

II . G ol d S au c es : These ar e divi d ed i nt o
three s ections :
( ) haud froid
1 C ( 2 ) S alad
-
.
( )
3 S we e t . .

I Hot S a uce s . .

( )
1 PL A IN SA U C E S Th es e i n clud e : .

M elted B utt e r White S auc e M ustard


A nchovy P arsley Caper S auc e
B rown O nion ( white Fenn el
E gg o r brown ) B read , etc .
16 T HE BOO K or SA UCE S
( )
2 SAV O R" SAU C E S ( a ) W HIT E
.

SA U CE S :
B ch amel Dutch or H ors e radis h
-

C ream H oll anda i s e M ai tr e d Hot el


O yst e r L obst e r Pluch e


M ussel Normand e B arnai s e
P oul ett e R avigot e C hick e n
F i n e s H erb e s S hri mp S upr e m e
S oubis e Proven cal e C ucumber
C ardinal Celery M ouss elin e, e tc .

M ornay E lchal ott e


V e lout e A ll e man d e
( )
b B R O W N S AU C E S :
E sp agn ole Ital i enn e M adere
B ordelai s e B retonne Gn ois e
C urry Fin anci e re Lyonna i s e
C hasseur R ob e rt T omat o
M atelott e M ilan ai s e B i garad e
M ushro om O liv e P e rigord
O rang e Rform e Gam e
Truffl e Po i vrad e E stragon , e t c .

P ompadour S almis
Turtl e Pi quant e
( 3 ) S WEE T S AU CE S :
A ppl e P each G o os e b e rry
A pricot Vanilla S abayon
M ousselin e Or ang e R aspberry
C h erry German S trawberry
C hocolat e C ustard E tc .

II G o l d S auc es
. .

( ) CHAU D FR O I DS :
1 -

Whit e Green Tomat e


Fawn B rown Vert e
B londe Ravigot e Red
H orse radish
-
M int Cream
Fines H erbes Pink S u doise, et c .

( 2 ) S A L AD SAU CE S :
M ayonn ais e T artare Rmoula d e
Cardin al R avigote M ousselin e
M outarde Fines H erb e s Vin aigrette, e tc .

( )
3 S W E E T SA U C E S :

Cre am Vanilla R aspberry


Rum A pricot S trawberry
B anan a Pin eapple C hoc olate, etc .

Custard Liqueur
Caramel S a b ayon
T HE BOOK or S AUCE S 17

S E A S O NI NG A N D FLA V O RING
'

The business of an intelligen t c ook is twofold :


h e or sh e must kn ow h ow t o ple as e th e eye , but
above all th e palate must be attered as well ,

for wh e re pleasures t o th e eye and palat e


meet , such work is don e an d th e dish es are com

plete . This i s p articularly essential i n th e
cas e of s auces an d their making .

Th e b est c hefs de cuisin e regard s e as oning


an d avoring ingredients as abs olut e n ec e ssities
to carry out their obj ect , becaus e th e success o f
th eir cooking depen ds largely up on th eir a i d .

B ut c on dim e nts for s eas oning an d avoring must


be used wi th sk ill , and above all sparingly .

A ll p alat e s d o not crav e for h i ghly spic e d


foo d s , or for c on diments , yet th e maj ority o f
p e ople deman d that th e fo o d sh ould b e m od er
ately s e ason ed with s ome kin d of con diments ,

for th e av o r of ins i pid foo d c an b e very much


i mprov e d by th e use of s ome suitabl e c ond i ment .

T o avor or s eason rightly is an acc omplish


ment of n o m ean order C onsi d er how much foo d
.

i s spoilt through being over se asoned and h ow


-
,

much of i t i s made insip i d through lack of


proper an d su fcient s eas oning A lmost e very
.

thing we c ook has a avor of its own th e n at ,

ural avor , an d to retain th i s becomes often a


di l cul ty, b e caus e th e gr e at secret li es i n br i ng

ing out th e n atural avor, rath er th an i mp art


i ng a n ew on e .

A ll th o s e wh o h av e b e en i n i t i at e d i nto th e
rudim e nts of c o okery , a s w ell a s conn oiss eurs ,
must kn ow that the succ e ss o f any dish , wh eth er
plain or e l aborat e , dep e nd s t o a v e ry large extent
up on i ts se as on i ng, an d e veryon e wh o d esires to
m as ter th is art must c ar e fully stu d y and observe
all th e rul e s pertain i ng to thi s important bran ch

o f co okery Intell i gence , carefulness , thorough ,


.

s oun d judgm en t, a steady h an d , an d a keen p er


c ept i on of pal at e ar e qua l i cat i on s wh i ch every

c o o k must p oss ess i n ord e r t o prepar e fo od so


a s t o mak e i t ap p e tizing, p le as an t to th e t as te,
18 T HE BOOK or S AUCE S
and i n e v e ry way p erfectly p al atabl e W el l .

co ok e d and well s easoned foo d is adm i ttedly


mor e d i gestible th an th e unpal atable .

A n erron e ous i d e a pr e vails th at plain cook



e ry r e qu i res n o oth e r avor i ng or s e as oning
beyon d s alt, p epper, and , say, Worc e ster sauc e
o r ketchup It c an e asily b e proved th at th er e
.

ar e a variety of i nexpens i v e s easonings bes i d e s


th e s e wh i ch m ay wi th advantag e b e us ed f or
i mparting a b ett e r avor, wh e reby th e m onotony
of pl ai n dish e s b ecomes c ons i derably all e viat e d .

I t i s most di i cul t to giv e any pr e cis e di r e c


t i ons for s easoning ; ex p erienc e alon e w i ll t e ac h
a c o ok T astes di e r c onsiderably What m ay
. .

b e agr eeabl e t o on e may b e obj ection abl e o r


i ns ipid to an oth e r It i s th e co ok s bus i ness to
.

study th e tast e of th os e h e or she serves , an d


th e s e as oning of th e fo o d must th er e for e b e
us e d according t o th e re qu i rements o f th os e t o
wh om th e dishes are s erve d .

I t i s i n all c a s e s w e ll to r e m e mb e r th at se a
son i n gs, what e ver th ey may c ons i st of , sh ould b e

us e d in sm all quantiti e s only, as on e c an alway s


add mor e i f found n ecess ary, but i t i s i mp oss ibl e
t o remove any if to o much has be en add e d i n
th e rst in stan ce .

T h e l at e M ons i e ur U de, on e o f t h e most t al


e n t e d ch efs of th e p ast , i n his culin ary work

says th at th e b est c ookery i n th e worl d i s

w orthless wi th out s easoning .

W e k n ow that c ookery acts u p on fo o d b y


d i min i shing th e rmness of s om e articl e s , and
by i ncreasing it i n oth ers . We furth er k n o w
th at th e avor i s altered as well as the arom a
an d app e aran ce , whilst s easoning an d avor i ng
h eighten th e savoriness of fo od th e action of ,

Which i s i n creas ed by th e addition of aro matic ,


pungent , an d stimulant ingredients Th e so.

c all e d highly s e as on ed d i sh es must b e r e gul at e d


o n a sl i ding scale as regards th e seas oning e m
p loy e d , so as to adapt th em to th e various p al
ates , which , as b efor e stated , di ffer considerably .

I t i s quite i mp ossibl e t o s p ecify i n any r e cip e


th e e xact quant i ty of se as oning materials for
e ach dish Not only palat es but also stomach s
.

di if e r as t o th e am o unt of s alt and spices which


T HE BOO K or SA UCE S 19

suits th em Fo r th i s re as on , if for no oth er i t


.
,

is al ways b e st to use all s e a son i ngs m od erately .

Th e obj e ct of seasoni ng providing always i t b e


,

added in moderate an d reas onable quantit i e s i s ,

t o in creas e th e digest i bili ty of f o od to a vo r ,

foo d wh i ch woul d oth erwi s e b e insip i d , an d t o


r e nder it at th e s am e tim e more p alatabl e an d
di g e stible B y s e as oning c ertain food m ate ri als ,
.

w e copy t o a certain ext e nt n ature, wh o r end e rs


fru i t wh oles om e and agreeable to th e t ast e by
ass oc i ating insip i dn ess w i th ac i ds , by c ombin i n g
c e rt ai n forms of starch wi th sugar as well as by ,

th e charact e rist i c instinct i v e lon gi ng wi th whi c h


n atur e an i mates both man an d animal for salt
an d for th e avo r an d p iquancy of ar o m at i c
h erb s an d s p i c e s .

Wh i l e a n e an d di scr i m i nat i ng tast e i s n at


ural t o a few only, i t may b e cultivat e d in som e
d e gr e e by all . It i s th e fortun e of th e c o ok
wh o p oss e ss e s i t ; i f n ot, h e or sh e m ay, through
p l e nty of e xp er i en c e , ac q u i r e i t i n s om e m e as ur e .

Th e most i mportant artic l e s us e d f o r s e ason


in g and avoring are salt , sugar , pepper , spic e s ,
ar omat i c h e rbs , vi negar , vegetables, mustard ,

butt e r an d o th e r fats , o i ls , et c . Th e princ ip al


function s which thes e adjuncts h ave to p erfo r m
i s , as explain e d in th e foregoing p ag e s , to rend e r
food mor e p alatabl e, m or e appetizing and m or e ,

di g e stible .

S al t is th e chief an d most i m p ortant s eas o n i n g


us e d ; i t i s n ot m erely a seas on i ng but a n e c e s ,

s ar y o f lif e, for i t remove s th e insipid avor


from all e atabl e s , such as meat , vegetables , e tc .

i t acts as an appetizer, and prom ot es digest i on .

T h e averag e qu antity of s alt r e quire d by e ac h


p e rson being, acc ord i ng t o m edic al auth o r i ty,
from to an ounc e p er d ay, i t becom e s a
n ecess ary adjunct for th e pr e s e rvation of h ealth .

Wh e n added to fo od i t excit e s th e supply of two


important agents i n th e proc e sses of digestion
an d nutr i tion , viz , th e gastr i c juic e and th e
.

c onst i tuent s of th e bile S alt l ik e all s e ason


.
,

i ngs , must b e us e d w i th judgment .

Wh en a dd e d t o b oil i n g water i t rai s e s th e


,

b o i ling p oint an d lib erates th e o xygen S alt acts


-
.
20 T HE BOOK or SA UCE S
furth er as a gr e at preservi ng agent f or me at,
v egetables , an d other substan ce s .

S pi c e s
, such as whi t e an d black p e pper ,
c ay e nn e , cloves , nutmeg, p apr i k a ( H ungarian
p epp e r ) , c oriander, c i nn amon , mace , et c , cann ot .

b e consider e d t o hav e any nutr i tiv e prop erties .

T h ey ar e us ed for th e purp os e of i mp arting c er


t ain avors t o improv e th e tast e o f vari ous foo d
substan ces In adding th e s e as oning an d av or
.

i ng t o d i sh es , i t i s of th e gr e at e st import an ce
for a c o o k t o rem e mber th at th e e xquisite s ens i
bi l i ty o f a c ook s p al at e can b e st b e judged an d

a d mi r e d by h i s or her cookin g .

A l l s p i ce : Thi s well kn o w n an d useful s p i c e i s


-


th e b erry of th e E ugeni a Pimenta, a sm al l
tre e growing i n th e West Indi es Th e fru i t i s .

gath ered wh en green an d unrip e , an d put t o dry


in th e sun , wh en it turns black L arg e quanti .

t i e s of i t ar e e mployed i n th e manufactur e of
th e s au ces s ol d i n sh ops Th e b e rr i es c ombin e
.

th e avor of cloves , c i nn am on , and nutmeg,


h enc e th e n am e allsp i c e I t i s al so c all e d
.

Pi ment o or Jamaic a p e pp e r .

Cl o v e s : C loves b e l ong to th e or d e r of myrtl e s .

T h ey are th e un op en ed ow e r buds of a plant -


c alle d th e C aryophyllus ar om at i cus, a n at i v e
of th e M oluccas . O wi ng t o th eir r e semblan c e
t o a n ai l th ey d er i v e the i r n am e from th e

Fren ch word clou
. T h ey form a w e ll kn o wn -

sp i ce , and ar e much us ed i n c ook e ry, b oth i n


sweet an d s avory dish es T o a stew o r rago ut ,
.

etc , an on i on stuck w i th cl o v e s i s almost i nd i s


.

p e nsable .

Nu t m e g : U s ed e xt e ns i v e ly f or v ar i ou s se a
son i n gs, b oth sweet and s avory It i s the s e e d
"
.

of th e nutmeg tre e M yristic a mosch at a ] , a n a


-

t i v e of th e M olucc a Islan ds , but i s n ow c ult i


v at e d i n Java , C ayenne , S umatra , an d s om e of

th e West Indian Islands Th e fruit i s sur


"
.

r oun d e d by a husk ar illus ] , wh i ch i s kno wn as


mac e . Th e nutm e g is p ear l i k e i n app e arance ,
-

an d i s usually grat ed for culin ary purp o s e s .

Nutmegs sh ould n ever b e used i n large prop or


tions fo r s eason i ng b ecause th e y a r e suppos e d
t o contain n arcotic propert i e s .
T HE BOOK or S AUCE S 21

M ac e i s th e outer shell or h usk of th e nutmeg ,

a n d it resembles it in avor When goo d it .

sh ould be orange yellow i n c olor -


U s e d wh ol e .

or p owder e d for both seas oning an d avoring .

Cur r y i s a c ond i ment and a spic e , but i s ,

strictly sp e aking a mixture of many oth e r s


,
.

P erh aps only an In di an c an m ake i t to p e r f ec


t i on , many of i ts i ngredients be i ng nat i ve to
t he c ountry , wh os e p o orest p easantry l ook u p o n
curry as a d aily n e c e ssity .

M us t ar d : Th e re are ttvo var i e t i e s of must ar d



s eeds , S inapis nigra , th e black , an d S i n api s
th e white Th es e ar e groun d an d m i x ed
alb a, . .

Th e pung e ncy of mustard i s mor e fu l ly d e vel


oped wh en moist en ed wi th water It i s suppos e d .

t o give e n e rgy to the digestiv e organs , an d t o


promot e appetite i f taken i n sm al l qu an titi e s .

It is used as a table c on di m e nt , an d f or s au ce s ,
dressing s , e tc .

Ci nnam o n : T his substanc e c om e s fro m the



b ark of a sp e c i es of l aurel L aurus C inn a ,

m om um , and i s about th e old est kn o w n s p i c e
i n th e world Th e tr e e i s chiey c ult i v ated in
.

C e ylon , but c i nn am on al s o comes from M adr as ,

Java, and B ombay T h e thr e e y e ar old branche s


.
s -

ar e stripp e d of th e oute r b ark th e i nn e r i s ,

l oos e n e d and dr i ed , wh i ch m ak e s i t sh r i ve l up ,
an d assum e th e q u i ll form i n whi c h i t is i m ,

p orted . Th e best cinnamon sh ould not b e to o


dar k i n c ol or, an d should b e h ardly thicker th an
p aper It h as a fragran t od or an d its t ast e is
.
,

pleas an t an d highly aromatic B es i des be i n g .

us e d exten sively for culinary p urposes c i nn a ,

m on is much e mployed medicin ally as a p owerful


s timulant .

T ur m e ri c : "
Turmeric C urcum a longa ] belon gs
t o the ginger family an d is extensiv e ly c ulti
,

v a t e d i n th e E ast Indies as a cond i ment Th e .

tubers ar e drie d an d then ground to a n e


p owder It enters largely into th e c omposition
.

of curry p owd e r and gives it th e p eculi ar odor


,

an d th e br i gh t yellow c olo r whi ch th at c om po un d


p ossess e s .

Co r i an d e r : Th i s i s th e fruit or so call e d see ds -

of a plant of E ast e rn origin Cori an drum sati "


22 T HE BOOK or S AUCE S
vum ] . C oriander s ee ds are used by th e c on f e c
t i on e r an d distiller an d in th e manufactur e of
,

curry p owd er Th e leaves h ave also b een use d


.

i n s oups an d s al ads They are als o us e d f or


.

avoring j ellies , etc .

Ar omat i c S p i c e is a mixture o f various avor s ,


c onsisting of p epp er, s alt , cinn am on , m ace , p ow
dered bayleaf , thyme , marj oram nutmeg an d , ,

c ayenn e Th es e ar e use d principally for braise d


.

m eats , s auts , rago uts galantin es , vol au vent s


,
- -
,

game p i es an d numerous other p rep arations


,
.

P e p p er : Pepper is produced from th e s ee d or


b erries of th e pl an t or shrub known by th e

n ame of P i per nigrum which grows in M al
,

abar and various parts of India Th e berry h a s .


a d ark brown or black cuticl e B lack p epper .

c on sists o f th e dr i e d berries groun d wh ol e ,

w hilst wh i t e pepper
is produced from th e
s am e b erries , after th eir d ark husks h av e b e en
removed , an d ground n ely Whit e p epp e r i s.

m i lder th an black p epp er .

Pepp er was kn own t o th e anc i ent G r ee ks an d ,

so highly was i t th ought of, th at wh en A lari c

b esieg e d Rome i n 4 08 A D , h e in clude d i n th e


. .

r ansom p oun d s of p e pper .

A s a c ondiment , p epp e r i s valuabl e i n h e ight e n


i ng th e avor and giv i ng p i quan cy to s avory
dishes , an d i t beh ooves a cook t o k n ow just
wh at p eppe r sh ould b e used for e ach dish fo r ,

by th e use o r abuse o f th i s s ort of s easoning it


i s quit e p ossible to make or m ar th e happin e ss
o f a dinner .

"
L o n g P e pp e r Pip e r l ongum ] i s a sp i c e s i m i l a r
i n tast e an d smell t o th e ordinary pepp er in com
m on use .It is n ot so pungent ; it i s mostly
us e d in m ak ing curry p owder an d in pickl e s .

Th e pl ant on which i t grows i s a n at i ve of E ast


In d i a.

M ign o ne tt e P e pp er : T hi s i s o r d i nary wh i t e
p e pper with th e husks r emov e d, an d crush ed
n e ly but n ot ground .

Cay enne P e pp e r c ons i st s of a sp e cies of t h e


dr i ed fruit of c apsicums which i s red in colo r ,

an d grows pri ncipally in Cayenne The pods ar e .

als o imported under th e nam e of chilli es It .


T HE BOOK or S AUCE S 23

h as a p ow e rful pung e nt avor an d i s v e ry u s eful


,

for avori ng purposes It als o enters into t he


.

c omp osition of c urry powde r .

Th e plant has be e n acclimatized in E urop e , and


i ts po ds are us e d for pickling an d som e times for
,

avoring sauces and stews .

Kr o na P e pp er i s a b righ t r e d pepp e r m a d e
fr o m th e H ungarian p ap rika, capsicum p od , e t c .

It is much milder th an cayenn e and not in th e ,

least pungent It forms on e of th e most p alat a


.

bl e s eason i ngs for th e cuisin e and t able .

A Pi n ch of S al t or P e pp e r : This expression
i s much us ed in c o okery ; it is th erefore n e c e s
sary in ord e r to c onvey a n otion of th e accurat e
,

q uan tities of a p i nch , t o state th at a pinch of


salt or p e pp e r sh ould b e i s of an oun ce an d a ,

sm all pin ch ( m ostly app l i ed t o c ayenn e ) 1 3 of 1

an ounc e i n weight It woul d h owever b e di i


.
, ,

cult and impracticable to mak e use of t he s cales


every t i m e a pinch of salt or pepp e r i s r e quired .

T h e best plan is t o a s certai n th e c ap acity of



on e s ng e rs by we i ghin g the quantity they h old ,

an d th e n g e ttin g a c custom e d t o th e exa c t q uan


t i ty re quired for s e aso n i ng .

In th e matt e r of spices , as w ell as of h e rb s


and soup veg e t ables , it is b e st to avoid c ontinu
ally r e ferring t o the sc ales , t o accust o m ones e lf
as much as possibl e t o b e abl e to tell by s i gh t th e
weight of th e ne e dful quantity of ingredients
r e qui r e d
.

Ar o m at i c H e rb s an d P l a nt s : T h e fo l low in g
ar e th e names of h erb s an d plants mostly us e d
in th e kitch en : Parsley b ay l e aves thym e ,
,
-

m arj oram , s ag e , tarragon , ch ervil chives , on i o ns , ,

sh allots , garlic , etc A number of th e s e are us e d


.

i n a dry state but eith er dry o r fr e sh th e y ar e


,

u s e d in a l arg e var i ety of pre p a r ations .

The B o u q ue t Ga rni is th e mainstay o f the


French cuisine , an d w e ll it may be ; it i s m o r e
d elic ate and subtl e th an spices or dried c on d i
m e nts ar e apt to be U sually th e bou qu e t garn i
.

i s c omposed of sprigs of ch e rvi l , ch i ves , thym e ,


bay leav e s tarragon an d p arsley
-

, ,
.

P ar s l e y p ossesses a wonderful property o f ab


sorbing or masking th e tast e of stron ger av or
24 T HE BOOK or S AUCE S
i ng i ngredients so much so th at an overdos e of
,

this h erb i s likely t o overp ower th e m ore deli


c at e aromas of s easonings Th ere i s n o h erb .

which p l ay s such an important part in c ookery


as parsley Not only does i t give th e nishing
.

t ouch t o many s auc es an d stews but it is t he ,

favorite for garnishing dish es Th e curled l eaf .

p arsley i s th e best an d m ost often used both f or


avor an d app earan ce P arsley i s said to b e a .

n at i v e of S ardinia but i s largely cultiv ated i n


,

e very c oun try in E urop e P owdere d p arsley i s .

e xc ellent for a numb er of dish es fo r impartin g


a most delic at e avor Th e process i s simple . .

S teep som e fresh p arsley in b oiling w ater for a


fe w s econds ; th en drain and p ut i t in a h o t
ov e n for a few minutes t o dry Put through a .

s i eve an d us e as r equired .

T ar r ag o n an d Cher vi l : T arragon b elongs to


t h e s ame family as wormwoo d and i s calle d by ,

b o t anists A rtemis i a D racun culus
It i s sup .

p o s e d t o b e a n ative of S iberia The l eaves of .

ch ervil p ossess a p eculiar av or, which i s much


appr e ci ate d by m any O f all th e p ot h erb s,
.
-

th e s e two are th e m ost o doriferous , an d are much


use d i n Fren ch c o okery i n entr es and sauces ,

an d s ometimes s oups In s al ads, salad sauc es


.
,

ch aud froid , e tc , th ey als o form an i mportan t


-
.

p art T arragon leaves ar e als o used for avoring


.
-

vinegar which is v ery largely use d in all k i tch


,

e ns and dining rooms -


.

T hy m e : T hym e belongs t o th e s am e fam i ly a s



mint , th e Labiat ae Th e leaves of this plant
"
.

Thymus vulgaris ] are use d fresh or dry for


s tufng s oups , etc It p ossess es a highly ar o
,
.

m at i c avor, and sh ould b e used sp aringly Th e


"
.

l emon thym e Thymus citri odorus ] is a sm aller


k in d and h as a strong perfum e like th e r i nd o f
,

l e mons which i s v e ry agree able


,
.

B ur ne t : Th e us e of this p e renn i al p l ant has


gone som e wh at out of fashion In former times .

i t made on e of th e principal ingredients in


claret cup its le aves when slightly brui se d,
, ,

smelling like cucumb er Its m odern us e i s c on .


~

ned to salads an d c ombined with tarragon ,


,

chiv e s an d ch ervil, burn e t forms th e Frenc h


,
T HE BOOK or S AUCE S 25
ravigote .

A lth ough called pimpren elle in

French , it must n ot be c onf us ed with th e E ng


l i sh pimp ern el , which is p oison ous .

Cap si cum s : O f thes e there are several k i n d s


which are cultivat ed in th e E ast an d West Indies
an d i n A meric a They yield a fruit which is
.

pungent and stimulating and in M exico th e p ods


,

are c alled chillies ; th ese are used to make a


h ot pickle an d chilli vin egar It is th e p owd e r .

of th e seeds an d po ds dried th at c onstitutes


c ayenne pepper C apsicums owe th eir power t o
.

an act i ve principle called capsicin and are co n


.
,

si de r e d t o be very wh olesome .

S avo ry : O f th i s avor i ng h er b th ere ar e tw o


var i eties , the su m m er savory S aturej a hor "
t en si s] an d th e winter s avory S aturej a m ont "
m m ] . It was introduc ed i nto E ngl an d in th e
s eventeenth c entury B oth vari eties are ext e n
.

si v e l y used for avoring and s e as oning purp oses .

M ar j o r am : There ar e four kinds of m arj oram ,


but th e sweet or kn ott e d marj oram O rigan um "
M aj oran a ] , a n ative of P ortugal and introduc e d ,

i nt o thi s c ountry in th e sixteenth century , is th e


kin d generally us ed i n our kitch ens It imparts .

a delicious avor to soups , sauc es , stews etc In ,


.

July th e l e aves ar e dried an d k e pt for wi nt e r


use .

ZM i n t : int b el ongs to a fam i ly of p l ants


M
calle d L abiatae
Th e spearmint
. M enth a "
vi rid is ] cultivated in our gardens h as th e most
agreeabl e avor of th e various kinds o f mi nt ,
and i s th e one m ost gen er al ly used in c ookery .

It possesses the property of c orrectin g atu


leney, h enc e the custom of us i ng i t in pe a sou p -

and with n ew p otatoes , etc .

B ay l e av e s :
-
The leaves of the c o mm o n l aur e l
" Prunus L auro cerasus ] are employed for culinary
purposes to give a kernel lik e avo r to stocks -

mirep oix, s auces , custards , puddin gs blanc ,

m anges , and th e milk an d water with which


c ak e s ar e mix e d Th e y ar e gen eral ly dri e d for
.

us e
B as il : T h i s i s a fav o r i t e h e r b wi th th e
French c ooks ; i t has a scent very li k e th at o f
cloves B asil for wi nt e r us e can b e obtain e d
.
26 T HE BOOK or S AUCE S
i n bottles and it i s th e b est h erb for clear moc k
,

turtl e and other clear soups m ade of sh ell sh -


.

It i s als o used for av oring vinegar The mid .

dl e of A ugust i s th e b e st time for m aking bas i l


vinegar .

O ni o ns : Th e n ame on i on i s g i ven to all plants


o f th e onion tribe , in which we i nclude leek ,

garl i c an d sh allot ( ch alote ) Th e onion is un


.
,

doubt e dly , n ext to salt , th e m ost valuabl e o f


all avoring substances us ed in c ookery .

When onions shallots or garlic are used , th e y


,

s h ould always b e well blen ded with other avor s ,


so that th e peculiar an d oft e n obj ectionabl e tast e

of th e s e c ann ot b e d et e ct e d .

The smell of th e onion , however, i s obj ect i on


abl e to m any, whilst others will h ave it th at th e
avor of onion disagrees with th em Th e question .
,

th e r e for e arises , h ow can this be overcome ? Th e


an swer is v ery simple B y th orough c ookin g
.

and manipulation the presence of onion i n a


st e w, s oup or s auc e may b e disguis ed , ret aining
at th e s ame time th e essential essenc e of this
v aluabl e av oring ro ot B y cunningly c on
.

c e al i n g th e avor with oth e rs i n a s auce st e w ,

or s oup , i t will yield enj oyment even t o th os e


wh o would c arefully avoid i t i f th ey kn e w i t
was th er e Wh en ever onion is us ed as a c on d i
.

ment or s e asoning an d th e art i cle i s prop e rly


,

treated as a avoring substanc e sh ould b e , much


of th e obj e ction of an unpleasant sm ell i s r e
mov e d T o o much attention c annot b e b e stow e d
.

upon its preparation .

Gar l ic : This i s on e of th e al l i aceous plant s .

It cons i sts of a group of s e v e ral bulbs c alled


cloves all en close d in one membran ous skin
, .

W h e n us ed judiciously and sparingly, garlic i s


a most e xc ellent c ondiment ; but with the E ng
l i sh taste it s eldo m nds favor , alth ough many
wi th out knowi ng i t partak e of dish es wh e r e i t
i s cunningly conc ealed Rubbing th e dish onc e
.

with a cl ove of garlic cut in h alf i mp arts qu i te


su fcient avor ; but i n Italy and oth er coun
tries i t is use d on a l arger scalei n fact it ,

enters i nt o th e c omposition of n e arly ev e ry dish .

G arlic is considered to b e very wh olesom e an d ,

to act as a slight stimulant and t onic .


T HE BOOK or S AUCE S 27

S hal l o t :T his bulbous root resembles garli c ,

a n d belongs to th e s ame g e nus It i s a nativ e of .

Pal e stine and was introduced into E ngland by


,

the Crus ad ers The plac e in Pale stine where


.

i t w as rst found w as A scalon : h en c e its botan


ical n ame A llium ascalonicum
Th e sh allot .
,

i s e xtremely useful in c o ok e ry e sp ecially for ,

avoring s auces vinegar et c It is more pun


, ,
.

gent th an garlic , but of more d elicate avor an d ,

c onse quently mor e po p ular th an th e form e r .

Carr o t s an d Tur ni p s :
Next to th e onion , th e
c arrot an d turnip are c ohsi de r e d th e most i m
p ortant avoring vegetables for s oups an d s auc es .

C arrots were known in th e time of E lizabeth ,

and in th e reign of James I th ey were lo oked .

upon as mo st uncomm on and as a luxury s o ,

much s o th at ladies wore them as a decor ation


in plac e of feath ers upon th eir h ats and sleeves .

B esides their us e for avoring c arrots and tur ,

n i ps are largely used fo r garnishing c e rt ain


dish e s , such as rago uts b oiled meats e tc Th ey
, , .

are als o s e rved as vegetables by themselves , als o


as pures for soups , etc It will thus be seen .

that th e humbl e onion , carrot an d turnip are


m ost i mportant in th e preparation of many
d i sh es ; an d in additi on to these th e re i s th e hou
quet garni , the parsley ro ot , so call ed pot herbs - -

an d numerous others , each of which has its s p e cial


v alue , th e ch aracteristic of which eve ry c ook
shoul d be fully acqu ainted with B ut l e t m e .
,

rep e at , strongly avored h erbs , as well as so


call e d p ot or soup vegetables , sh ould always b e
us e d with mod e ration and judgment .

Vi ne g ar : Vin egar i s d erived from a vari e ty


of sourc e s Th e best vin egar is th e French v i n
.

a i gr e d O r l an s It is made fro m whit e win e ;



.

but c ommon vin egar is m ostly prepared from


m alt in this c ountry Th e uses t o which vin
.

egar i s applied in cookery are v ery numerous ; it


forms th e foundation of many s auc es and if ,

taken with foo d in small quantity it is said to


assist digestion If t aken h owever , in excess
.
, ,

it is highly injurious O wing t o its antiseptic


.

an d agreeabl e avor i t is largely used for pre


,

s e rv i ng veget abl e substances known under the


28 T HE BOOK or S AUCE S
n am e of p i ckles It also h as th e facul ty of
.

s oftening th e bres of me at and m aking th e m


t e nder .

S ug ar i s l argely us e d for fru i ts of all k i n d s , an d


farin ac e ous fo ods ; b esides s easoning tast eless
things , sugar also a ffords considerabl e nutriment .

The value of sugar as a c ondiment is n ot always


su i ci e n t l y realized It rend e rs wat ery and i nsipid
.

veg e table s m ore digestibl e , an d i n unsuspecte d


q u ant i t i es i t s oftens an d h eighten s th e avor
of s auc e s an d rago ut s I f mingled wi th o th er
.

wis e insipi d fo od art i cles , i t stimul ates the


st omach to a sl i ght d egree , and h astens th e act i on
of th e digestive organs S ugar i s also found us e.

ful in rendering watery v egetables , such as p e as ,


cucumbers , pumpkins , spinach , c o oke d endive , e tc , .

m or e digestible , and i n th e sam e mann er assists


digestion of starchy matters which ar e us e d f or
s oups , s auce s, gruel, e t c .

L e m o ns : L emons pl ay an i m p ortant p art i n


s auc e and other c ookery Th e r i nd , j uic e, an d
.

essent i al oil all c ontain valuabl e prop ert i e s Th e .

rin d or p e e l i s use d for avor i ng a v ariety o f


-

dish e s . A s a rule th e rin d i s grat ed , but th e


best way t o obtain th e largest amount of th e
ess e nc e from th e lem on i s to p are the rind wi th
a v e ry sh arp kn i fe as thinly as p ossibl e , wi th
out encro aching on th e white p art of th e r i n d ,
thus cutting righ t through th e many c ells c on
taining th e essenc e S ome c o oks obta i n th e z e st
.

by rubbing th e lem on with lumps of sugar It .

i s from th e rin d th at th e ess enti al oil of lemon


i s obtai n ed , which is a more reliable substitut e
th an fresh lemon p eel The r i n d preserved with
.

sugar forms th e well kn own candied p e e l -


.

Va ni l l a : Vanill a was rst discovered by th e


S p ani ards It is th e fruit of a parasitical plan t
.

an orchid an d th e b est is found i n M exic o .

It h as a d elicious fragrance , and is n ow largely


us e d for avoring puddings , cakes custar ds , ,

li queurs , ch o col ate etc For a voring purp oses i t


,
.

i s b etter t o use th e vanilla p ods or vanilla sugar


th an th e essen ce of vanilla th e o dor of which ,

quickly e scapes .

Gi n g e r : G i nger i s th e tub er of a p e r e nn i al
T HE BOOK or S AUCE S 29

pl ant c all ed Z i ngib e r


o i ci n al e , gr owi ng

chiey i n the West In dies It i s th e most gen


.

e r a ll y used of al l spices , an d is very agree abl e

and wh olesome Th ere are two k i nds of ging e r


.

the white an d th e black Th e former is c on .

si de r e d th e best , and is prepared by washing

an d scalding th e tubers , and th en scraping them


an d drying th em i n the sun ; i n black ging e r th e
s craping process is omitted , i t being merely
scalded before being dr i ed Ginger is much us e d
.

i n culinary operations , especially by c onfection


e rs , an d it als o nds i t s w a y into sauces , b ee r,
o

S p ic e d w i nes an d other beverages .

HINT S O N S T O CK M A KING .

U se only fresh ingredi e nts such as meat , veg o


tables , etc , i n proper proportion
. .

B oil up th e st ock d aily an d ke ep it in earth en


war e p ans , no t in m et al stewp ans or pots .

Remove th e fat as s oon as it c ongeals on th e


surfac e of a st o ck .

Th e removal of fat i s most e ssential t o all


nished sto cks and nish e d s auc es alike S auces , .

n o matter wh at kind , sh ould n ever be greasy It .

is strongly advisable th at stock for sauces should


b e prepar e d th e d ay b efore it is required .

If this advi ce b e follow e d a gre at deal of l ab or


m ay b e s aved and b e tter results wi ll b e oh
,

t ai n e d S tock los es n othing if kept fo r two days ,


.

p rovided it be put away in clean vess els ( earthen


ware pans ) .

S t o ck f or S auce s : A gre at m any of th e recipe s


for s auces direct th e us e of stock becaus e by its
us e they are m ade much r i ch er an d more nour i s h
i ng th an wh en water is used .

S tock i s th e li quor in which fresh m e at , bone s ,


an d vegetables have been boiled long enough
to extract th e goodness therefrom .

T o make a useful st ock , c ut up th e me at or


m eat trimmings and ch op th e bon es ; put th e m
i n a stock p ot or large stewp an and ll up with
-

cold water, allowi ng a quart to e ach poun d of


m e at and bones ; add a little s alt an d all ow it t o ,
30 T HE BOOK or S AUCE S
c ome to th e b oil sl owly Th en remove t he s cum,
.

and add st ock vegetables , such as c arrot , turnip ,


onion , celery leaves , an d p arsley root if h andy, al l
o f w h ich must h av e been previously prep ared ,
cl e aned an d wash ed C ook , i e , simm er , gently
. . .

for about thre e or four h ours , th en strain for


use , but b e sure th at every p articl e o f fat i s r e
m oved . A lmost any kind of m eat ( c ooke d or
raw ) , b on es and gravy from roast m eat m ay b e
,

used for sto ck making s o long as they ar e fr e sh


and swe e t .

Pr e par ati o n s m a de f r o m S t o ck s ar e summ a r i z e d


as follows : First stock ( bouillon or broth ) .

S ec on d or gen eral stock ( r e m oui l l age ) this i s a


rell of th e rst stock E ssences H alf glaz e
. .
-

( demi gla
-
c e ) a reduction of rst or s econ d
stock ; an d lastly, glaze .

F i sh S t ock : Th i s c an b e m a d e of almost any


kind of sh , but oily sh sh ould b e avoided .

Fish broth , all kn ow, i s p articularly n ourishing,


light an d digestibl e .Thick skinned sh always
-

m ake th e best broth .

Th e following is an excellent sto ck :


Take 2 lbs sh and sh b ones , se t i t in a p ot
.

wi th two quarts of water, an onion stuck with


two cloves , a few peppercorns , mace , an d a b ou
q uet S kim as it c om e s t o a b oil an d allow i t
.
,

t o reduc e t o about h alf its quantity by very slow


simmering . A little white win e or vinegar is
often put w i th this sto ck Wine g i ves a specially
.

nic e avor t o sh broth S alt must b e add e d at


.

th e l ast moment .

AU "ILI A R" R E CIP E S FOR S AU CE S .

B o uque t garni : This i tem is used i n s e veral


of th e sauc e recip es ; it is often called a bunch
o f h erbs , o r a fagot of sweet herbs and is much ,

used in all kin ds of me at co okery wh ere s avo ry


avor i s desired M any peopl e pr aise th e avor
.

of Fren ch s oups an d s auces th e d elicious aro ,

m atic avor of which is generally due to th e use


of a b ouquet o f h erbs or a b ouquet garni wh i ch ,

enters largely i nto th e comp osition of m any of


T HE BOO K or S AUCE S 31

th e Fr e nch preparations , s oups , rago uts an d


sauce s T o make a bouquet garni , l ay up on th e
.

l e ft h and a few branches of fr e sh p arsley well


wash ed , and place upon th is a sprig of thyme ,
a spr i g of marj oram , a bay l e af , a sprig of basil ,
-

a c e l e ry le af and a small piece of cinn am on


st i ck, als o a clove of garlic if liked , together
wi th a s mall blad e of m a c e an d a pepper p od
( long p epp er ) Fold
. th e p arsley round th e oth er
h e rbs , e tc , an d ti e with a string into a n eat littl e
.

b un ch ( bou q uet ) and us e as dir e cted E xcessive .

us e of strong sm e ll i ng h e rbs or spi c es must i n


-

al l c as e s b e avoid ed .

M e at Gl aze ( Gl a c e de Vi an de ) : Put 8 quart s


of goo d stock , whit e o r brown , into a st ewpan ,
boil u p , sk i m well , an d reduc e on a m oderat e
r e from 3 % t o 4 h ours It will m ak e b arely h alf
.

a p i nt wh en d on e Put into a j ar whilst h ot ,


.

c over an d keep in a d ry plac e , and us e as requ i red .

If w e ll m ad e it will keep f or a lon g t i m e .

Dux ell e P ur e ( R e quired : 2 oz butter , 2 o z . .

n ely ch opp e d co oked h am , 6 mushrooms , 3 shal


l ots , 1 clov e garli c , 1 tru fe , 1 glas s of whit e
w i n e stock , b ay l e af , p epp e r, salt , nutmeg, all e
-

man d e sauc e ) .

C ho p th e mush rooms , sh allots , a f e w spri gs of


p arsley, garlic , an d th e tr um e M elt th e butt e r .

in a st e wp an , a d d th e h am an d th e above n am e d -

i ngred i ents , stir over th e re for a few minutes ,

moist e n with a gl ass of whit e w i n e and a littl e


st ock , season with p epper, s alt, nutmeg and a
littl e p owdere d bay l e af ; when well r e duc e d stir
c

i n four tabl e spo onfuls of allemand e s auce b oi l ,

agai n , an d s erve as r e quired .

F um e t o f Gam e ( F um e t d e G i b i er ) : C arc as s o f
game , 1 sm all carrot , IA on i on 1 bay le af , 1 spri g ,
-

of thym e , 2 o z raw h am , 1 oz lard or butter , 1


. .

glass sh erry 1 quart sto ck


,
.

Ch op up th e c arc ass , wash , p e el and slic e the


c arrot peel an d slice th e onion Put th e butter
,
.

or lard in a stewp an , wh en h ot add th e c arc as s


and h am cut i nto small piec e s , fry a few minut es ,

th en ad d th e vegetables and h erbs Fry again , .

moisten with th e wi n e , cover , and steam a f e w


minutes add th e stock and c ook for twenty min
,

utes S kim , strain , an d us e as direc ted


. .
32 T HE BOOK O F SAUCE S
Chi c k en E ss en c e ( E ssen c e de V ol ai ll e ) : Re
duc e 1 qu art of chicken stock or c onsomm over
a slow re t o about h alf a pint S kim, stra i n .

i nto a whi te p ot , an d use as require d .

M e at J ui c e : ( This i s s ometimes used to e u


rich certain sauces ) T o extract th e juice from
.

m e at a special press i s re quire d Th e m eat i n


, .

t en de d for this purp os e must b e very underdon e .

Venison and ducks b eef llets an d carc ass es


, ,

ar e fre quently tre at ed in this way .

Raw lean b eef wh en re quired for r aw beef


,

j ui c e sh ould b e well b atte d , fre ed fro m skin an d


fat , an d cut into strips before being put into
th e pr e ss .

Cho p p e d P ar sel y ( P e r s i l hac h ) : Wash s ome


p arsley, trim off s om e of th e stalks if c oarse ,

chop as nely as p ossibl e , plac e it in th e c orner


o f a cl e an cloth fold th e end of the cloth , an d
,

h old tightly und er th e water tap or rins e in a -

b asin of cold water s queeze out all th e water


, ,

an d put th e parsley on a plate t i ll want e d .

T o Ch o p a n O n i o n : P e el th e on i on cut i t i n ,

two lengthways le aving th e stalk ends


,
Com .

m enc e to slice each h alf with out detaching th e


slic es fro m th e stalk K e ep rmly together, an d
.

cut through s everal t i mes crossways ; th en cut


down h orizontally i nt o n e s qu ares until you ,

c ome t o th e stalk This i s th e quick e st way to


.

minc e an onion , but i t r equir e s pract i ce Th e .

oth er way i s t o p eel and ch op i n th e ordin ary


mann er Wh en n e en ough , wash i n cold water,
.

drai n on a cloth and us e as requir e d


, .

T o Ch o p M us hr o o m s : If freshly gath er e d mush


rooms are us ed , pe el o the skins , tri m the st al ks ,

an d wash in cold water ; then ch op as require d


an d us e i mmediately .

Preserved mushro oms are well drained an d ,

then ch oppe d as re quire d .

L i ai so n s i n g ener al ( for th i ckening of sauc e s )


Th ere are a number of process es of thickening
s oups and sauc es an d th es e ar e c alled li ai sons
,

,

i n a culin ary sens e .

L i aison m ay b e c omp osed of our ( f cule ,

arrowro ot c or n our , cr e me d e riz , etc


,
- -
diluted .

in e ith e r m ilk, cream , stock or wat er according ,


T HE B OOK or S AUCE S 33

to th e n atur e of th e s oup or s auc e for whi ch it is


r eq uir e d
. A liaison sh ould always b e straine d
be fore it is mixed with the liquid which require s
thicken i ng an d th e preparation b e we l l stirr e d
,

whilst th e latter is added .

The liais on of egg is fre quently us ed for whit e


p ur es , bl an q uettes , fr i cass es and whit e s auces .

O nly the yolks of eggs sh ould b e used m ixe d ,

wi th a small q uantity of cre am , an d well b eaten .

S uch l i aison sh ould only b e add ed to th e prep


aration for which i t i s require d when it i s
'

thoroughly co oked ; p art of th e s oup or s auc e


is p oured on t o the liais on , stirre d an d then
all m i xed well togeth e r .

When onc e the li ai son of egg is added th e ,

preparati o n must on n o acc ount he all owed t o


b oil, but only just get th oroughly h e ate d, s o
as to form th e liais on , thus prevent i ng the eg gs
from cur dling .

Ho w t o T am m y S auce s : S om e of th e mo r e
delic ate c omp ound s auc e s ar e fre quently strain e d
through a tammy cloth , s o as t o render them as
s mooth o r cr e am l ik e as possible T o ee ct th i s .

process two persons are n eeded wh o tak e hold


o f th e t ammy cloth on both ends ; th e li quid or
p ur ee t o b e passed is th en p oured in th e cloth ,

e ach h o lds a wo od e n spoon with th e righ t h an d


and th e end of th e cloth wi th th e left h and an d ,

b oth spoons are pressed backwar d an d forwar d ,

i n r e gular mot i on , till th e bul k of th e li q ui d h as


passed thr o ugh .

Li q ui d Car a m e l : ( f o r coloring sauc e s ) Put .

a poun d of loaf , c astor or moist sugar into a


c opper st e wp an or sugar boiler A dd about h alf
-
.

a gill o f water, an d let it dissolve slowly , th e n


stir over a slow re an d c ook until a dark brown
c olor ; wh en a whiti sh smoke appears it is a
sign th at th e sugar is d on e Rem ov e i t fro m
.

th e r e , p our on about a pint of boiling water ,


allow this to boil up whilst stirr i ng and c ook till ,

it h as th e appe aran ce of a syrup ; when c o ol put


i t i n a c orked bottle an d us e as required .

Caramel sh ould b e used with discreti on G ood .

c ooks rarely use it , f or i t is apt to imp art a


bitter t aste i f us e d t oo freely It is princip ally
.

used for c o loring, g ravies an d sauc e s .


34 T HE BOOK on S AUCE S
A s pi c or S avo r y J ell y : ( used for c ert ain Co l d
sa u c e s for ch aud froids , etc ) : Required : 1 quart
clear stock or water , 2 % oz gelatin e , the j uic e .

of 1 lem on and its rind , gill sh erry , gill tar


ragon v i n egar, gill French win e or O rl ans vin e
gar, 1 small bunch of h erbs , ( bouquet garni ) 1 ,

small onion sliced , 1 bay le af, 1 0 peppercorns ,


-

1 0 allspic e, 1 blade of mace , a few c elery le aves ,

s mall c arrot , sliced , A te aspoonful s alt, th e


1 ),

whites an d sh ells of 2 eggs .

S ee that all th e ingredients ar e re ady an d


th e v e get ables cl e an . Wh isk up lightly th e
w h i tes of eggs w i th th e sh ells , an d put th e m,
togeth er with th e remainder of th e ab ov e name d -

i ngredi e nts , into a well tinne d stewp an , stir wi th


-

a whisk over th e re , and br i ng it thus slowly


t o boil Remove th e wh isk an d draw th e stew
.

p an away from th e re , and allow it to s i mm e r


gently o n th e s i de of th e stove for about tw e nty
minutes S train through a clean cloth previously
.

s teepe d i n b oiling water and ti e d over a s oup


s tan d or th e legs of a stool upside down ; or
p ass i t thr ough a warm j elly bag ; i f n ot clear -

at rst , pass it through a secon d or third tim e .

The aspic i s th en ready for use This aspic i s .

s uit able for b orders or decor ativ e purpos e s ; i f


re quired for oth er purposes , 2 ounc es of gela
t i ne will b e found sui ci e n t .

S AV O R " OR CO M P O U ND S AU CE S

U s e d f or Fi sh, M e at P o ult ry Ga m e
, , an d Ce r t ai n
V e g e t abl e s .

A dmi r al S auce ( S a uce a l A m i r al ) : T o o n e

pint of rich white sauc e ( velout or all e m an de )


add 1 dessertspo onful of n ely ch opped capers , 1
teaspoonful of ch opped p arsl ey, on e of ch opp e d
l e mon rind , th e juic e of h alf a lem on , an d a
teasp oonfu l of anchovy e sse n se Reh eat and .

s e rve h ot .

Ai gr e D o u c e S au c e :
-
pint p o i vrad e sauc e 1 ,

tablesp o onful red currant j elly, 2 tablesp oonful s


-

cream .

T o th e poivrad e s auc e add th e red currant j e lly, -


THE BOO K or S AUCE S 35

boil up and skim , th e n stir in the cre am , reh e at


with out boiling again se ason t o t aste and use as
,

required . This s auc e is especially suitable for


ro ast gam e , etc .

A l ba ny S au ce : Peel thinly one small cucum


ber, cut it into small pieces c ook till t ender in ,

s alte d water, th en drai n and rub through a n e


,

siev e Wh en c old stir in a pur e mad e with on e


.

teaspo onful of anch ovy ess enc e a t ablespoonful ,

of tarragon v i negar, a dessertspoonful of chut


n ey, a dess ertspoonful of nely chopped gh erkin s ,

h alf a pint of mayonnaise , h alf a gill of aspic


j elly , h alf a gill of c re am , paprika p e pp e r, a little
salt, an d a pinch of castor sugar M i x all well .

togeth er an d ad d a few drops of spin ach greening


t o give it a gre e n t i nt .

A lb e rt S auce : Prepare a S auce B e rn ai se , but


substitute the t arragon with a few n e l y chopped -

leaves of green mint , an d add a little n e l y


g rated h orse rad i sh
-
.

Albuf er a S a uce : Prepar e a r i ch supr e m e sau ce ,


and avor i t with li queed me at extract or glaz e .

All e m an de S a uc e : 1 % o z butter 1 o z our 2


.
,
.
,

yolks of eggs 1 t ablespo onful of cre am , 1 t e a


,

spoonful lemon juice , c hicken stock nutmeg, ,

s alt , pepper .

M elt th e butte r i n a st e wp an a dd th e our , ,

stir a few minutes with out allowing it to brown ,


dilut e with rath er m or e than a pint of ch icken
stock , an d st i r until it boils S eas on with p e pper
.

an d salt and grated nutm eg L et it simmer for .

h al f an h our, skim , and nish with liai son m ad e


of th e yolks of eggs , the cre am , and oz of .

fresh butter S tir over th e re unt i l th e eggs


.

b egin to set, but d o not let it boil ; add th e lemon


juice , and pass through n e strainer or t ammy
cloth .

A m eri ca n S a uc e ( S auc e A m er i c ai ne ) : H e at up
som e tom ato s auc e an d blend it with lobster
butter sui c i e n t to avor and c olor, which must
b e whisked in .

A nchovy S a uce ( S a uce Ancho i s ) : 1 o z butt e r .


,

54 o z our ,
. pint milk , pint sh stock , 1
dess e rtsp o onful an ch ovy ess e nc e .
36 T HE BOOK AUCE S

or S

M elt th e butter i n a stewp an , stir i n th e our ,


m i x well and c ook a little A dd by degrees th e .

mi l k an d the sh stock S tir till it boils an d.


,

let c ook for 1 0 m i nut es Incorporate a small.

d ess ertsp oonful of anch ovy ess e nce , boil up again


and strain .

A n ot he r Way : H e at up h alf a p i nt of b ch am e l
or hollandais e s auc e, and stir in on e teasp oonful
of an ch ovy ess enc e .

An c ho vy Cr e am ( Cr e m e d A n choi s) : W h i p up

a gill of cre am and add to it a tablesp oonful of


anch ovy e ss ence , a t e aspoonful of made mustard ,
a p in ch of p aprika pepper, and if liked a few
d rops of li quid carmine When su fciently .

whipp ed put th e cream i nto a s auc eb oat , an d


s e rve w i th grille d or boile d sh such as s almon ,
turbot or soles .

A ncho v y E gg
S auce ( S a uce anc ho i s a ux
o eu f s ) : M elt 1 o z of butter in a saucepan , stir
.

in 1 o z of our an d c ook wi th out browning ;


.

th en add 1 t easp oonful of anch ovy essenc e , h alf


a p i nt of b o i l i ng mi lk, an d a similar quant i ty of
white stock ; stir until th e sauc e is smo oth .

Next add a n e ch opped h ard bo i led egg, a p i nch


- -

o f c ayenne , an d about 2 t abl e s po onfuls of cr e am .

A s pi c M ay o nn ai s e : p i nt asp i c j elly, 1 gi l l
s ti ff m ayonn ais e .

D i ssolve the aspic an d let i t get p artially co ol,


th en stir i t gently i nto th e m ayonn ai se an d use
b e for e it begins t o se t, accor di ng to dir e ct i on .

A spi c a l a T o m at e ( T o m ato A spi c ) : 1 p i nt as


p i c j elly, 4 small ripe tomat oes o r pint tomato
pulp , o z French leaf gel atin e , 1 de s s ertsp o on
.

f ul sh erry .

B lanch an d p e el th e tomato es , rub through a


n e h ai r si e ve , d i ssolv e th e gel atin e , and add
t o th e pulp Put th e j elly, t om at o pulp , an d
.

sherry in a st ew p an , b oil up , sk i m well, an d si m


m er for a few minutes ; p a ss all through a n e
h ai r sieve , an d use as directe d .

Aur o r a S auce : 1 p i nt of b ch am el s auc e , 2 o z .

b utter, 1 o z lobster butter, 15 gill cream , 1


.

d essertspo onful tarragon vinegar, c ayenn e .

P ut th e b ch am el s auc e i n a stewp an , a d d th e
T HE BOOK or S AUCE S 37

butter, a pin ch of c ayenne cream , t arr agon vi n e ,

gar , an d lobst er butter S tir well over b o il in g


.

water till h ot, but without letting th e s auc e


boil.

Aur o r a S auc e ( No M i x a gi ll of bch am e l


.

s auc e with th e j uic e o f h alf a lemon a table ,

spoonful of mushroo m l i quor , an d h alf a gill of


cream S tir over th e r e till it boils th en add
.
,

two h ard bo i led egg yolks rubbed through a sieve ,


- -

and n i sh wi th an ounc e of lobster butter or


cray sh butter .

A vi gn o n ese S au ce ( S au c e A vi gn onn ai se )
Th i s :

c onsists of b cham e l sauc e enrich ed w i th yolks


of eggs an d grated parmesan , to which i s added
ch opped parsley ; a avor of sh allots or garl i c
i s like d by s om e, and in c orp orate d accordingly .

Ay o la S auce : Th i s consists of a ma yonna ise


avor e d with n ely crush ed gar li c j ust sufc i en t
to tast e , an d lemon juic e .

B at ar de S auc e ( Hot ) : This c onsists of E n g


lish melt ed butt er sauce enrich ed with c hi cke n
v el out e an d avored w i th lemon ju i ce .

B at ar de S auc e ( Co l d) : Pr e p ar e a B ar n ai se
s auc e , avo r it with sh ess en c e o r fum et de
p oisson enr i ch ed wi th tomato p ur e an d anch ovy
butt e r .

B avar o i se S au c e : Prepar e a H olland ai s e o r


Dutch s auc e an d stir in some whipped cream
,

an d su fcient craysh butter to avo r an d c olo r .

B ar n ai se S au c e : gill t arragon v i n e gar , 3


shal lots n ely ch opped , 6 peppercorns crushed 4 , ,

yolks of eggs , 1 t ablespo onful of white sauce ,

4 o z butter , 1 sprig thym e , m eat glaz e , an d


.

l emon juice-
.

Put the shallots , p eppercorn s an d thym e with


th e vinegar in a stewp an cov er and boil unt i l ,

well reduced rem ove th e thym e add th e s auc e


, ,

and a little dissolved m e at glaze Whisk in th e .

yolks of eggs taking care n ot to let the s auc e


,

boil, r e move th e st ewpan from th e re , an d work


i n by d egrees the butter O nly a l i ttle b utter .

must b e added at a tim e , oth erwise th e s auc e


wi ll get oily S train through a p ointe d str ain er
.

or t amm y A little nely ch opped fres h t arragon


.
38 T HE BOOK O F S AUCE S
an d ch ervil , and a few drops of lemon juic e m ay -

b e added after th e s auc e is strained .

B arn ai s e S au c e ( Brune ) : Prepar e an ordin ary


B arn aise as ab ove , with the addition of m eat
glaze t o give it a brown color .

B ar n ai s e S au c e ( T om at e ) : S ame as ab ove ,

adding tom ato pur e in place of me at glaze .

B c ham e l S a u c e ( Whit e S auc e ) : D iss olv e on e


oun c e of butter in a small stewpan , add on e
ounc e of our ; stir over the re for a few min
utes , just long enough to c ook th e our , with out
allowing it t o brown S tir in a pint of boil i ng
.

m i lk ; add a small onion stuck with a clove t en ,

whit e p epp ercorn s h al f a b ay le af a sliced c ar rot


,
-

, ,

a pin ch of salt, an d a l i ttle grated nut m eg S tir .

until it b oils an d allow t o simmer for fteen


,

minutes P ass through a tammy cloth or n ap


.

k i n , return to th e stewpan an d nish with a ,

small pie ce of butter, an d half a t e asp oonful of


l e mon juice .

B cham e l S auce ( an oth er way ) : 1 % o z our



.
,

2 o. z butter 1 1
,,4 pint of milk , an d white me at

sto ck , 1 small onion or sh allot 1 sm all b ouquet ,

garni , 1 0 p epp ercorns , V2 a b ay leaf, 1 sm al l blad e -

of mace , seasoning .

Put th e milk on t o b oil with th e onion or


sh allot ( p e eled ) the b ouquet , p epperc orns , m ac e ,
and b ay le a f M e lt the butter, stir i n th e our
-
.

an d c ook a little with out browning ( or us e white


r oux ) stir i n th e mi lk, etc , ( h ot ) wh i sk ov e r .
,

th e re until it boils , an d l e t simm er fro m fte e n


t o twenty minutes T ak e out the b ouquet rub
.
,

th rough a si eve or tammy return t o th e st e wp an , ,

s eas on lightly with a pinch o f nutmeg, h alf .

inch of c ayenne , and h alf a te asp oonful of s alt .

h e s auc e is th en ready for use .

B cham e l S au c e ( M ai gr e ) : Proce e d th e s am e
as ab ove directed , omitting th e meat sto ck an d ,

using in i ts plac e milk an d sh stock o r milk and


vegetable sto ck or water .

B ee f M arr o w S au c e ( S auce M o ell e de B o euf ) :


B l en d som e E sp agn ole s auc e with fried sh allot,
and add blan ch ed beef m arrow previ ously cut i n
th in slices , also s om e nely ch opp e d p arsl ey, a
T HE BOOK or S AUCE S 39

little chi li vi negar and red p epper t o t ast e .

S e rv e h ot .

B ee f st e ak S au c e : Prepare a light brown s auc e


of th e d e mi glac e typ e to which ch opped oni on
-

an d p arsley h ave been added E nrich t hi s with .

meat glaze an d butter, and avor w i th sh e rry


an d l emon juic e .

B r cy S au c e : Reduc e 1 % gi lls of sh sto c k t o


about on e third its q uantity, th en add 1 ch opped
-

sh all ot previ ously t ossed in butter, 1 glass whit e


,

wine , 1 teasp oonful of m e at or sh gl aze , and


r e duc e again , and add A; gill of velout s auc e
1
,

and th e j uic e of lemon T a m my and return .

to th e stewp an , nish with 1 o z of h erb butter .

and serve .

N O T E : T h e h erb butter i s mad e w i th nely


ch opped fennel , tarragon , ch ervi l , and p ar sley,
an d fresh butt e r .

B eurr e N o i r S auce ( Bl ac k B u tt e r S a uce ) : 1 %


-

o z butter, 1 teasp o onfu l n e ly ch opped p ar sley,


.

y, te aspoonful vineg ar .

Put the butter in an omelett e pan , fry over a


quick r e until it acquires a nut brown colo r, -

then ad d th e vi negar and p arsley Pour over th e .

articl e t o b e served .

B i g ar a de S auce : Proceed th e s am e as for or


ange s auce , but substitute a S e vill e oran ge f or
a sweet on e U se only half th e rind an d boil
.
,

at le ast for ten minutes O mit red curran t .


-

j elly, and ad d a glass of port wi n e in its p lace .

B l an q ue tt e S auce : Th i s sauc e i s m ad e th e
s ame as S auc e A llemand e adding thre e table ,
.

sp oonfuls of cream inste ad of on e .

B o he mi a n S auce ( B ohe mi enne S auce ) : Pr ep ar e


a whit e s auc e with freshly mad e bre ad c rum bs -

milk an d whit e stock , stir in fresh butter an d


n ely grated horseradish to avor th en s eas o n ,

wi th p epp er an d s al t i f n eed e d .

G oo d W o m an S auce ( B o nne P em m e S auce ) :


C h op nely on e small p eele d onion or 3 shallots ,

blend this in butter in a sauc epan , an d add half


a p i nt of sh stock B oil up an d reduc e w i th
.

h alf a pint of B chamel sauce th en thi cken wi th ,

2 egg yolks , s e as on to t aste , and avor with lemon


-
40 T HE BOOK OF S AUCE S
j ui c e ; n i sh the s auc e w i th a l i ttl e wh i p p e d
c ream .

B o nne f o y S auc e : T his cons i sts of a light , we ll


avored bordel ais e s auce ( clar et avored brown
s auc e ) , into which a littl e fr e sh butter, s om e
nely ch opp e d parsley, an d pur e of b ee f marrow
h av e b ee n i ncorp orat e d .

B or de l ai se S auce : p i nt e sp agn o l e or b r o wn
s auce , 1 w i neglas sful red wine , 2 n ely ch opp e d
sh allots , o z meat glaze , 1 te asp oonful ch opped
.

herbs ( parsl e y, tarragon an d c h erv i l ) a pin c h


of sug ar , salt an d p eppe r .

Put th e win e an d sh allots i n a stewpan , r e


d uc e t o h alf, add th e s auc e , an d c o ok slowly for
twenty m i nutes T ake off th e s cum , add the
.

ch op p e d h erbs an d me at glaz e S e ason wi th


.

sugar, s alt an d p epper Give it on e mor e b oil


.
,

and ke e p h ot in th e b ai n mar i e unt i l re quir e d


-
.

B or de l ai s e S auce ( N o Put i nt o a s auc e p an


.

a gi ll of claret, 4 n e ly ch opped and p eel e d


s h al lots , a few p epp ercorns , a b ayle af , an d a
spr i g of thyme C over , an d l et i t reduc e t o about
.

h alf i ts volum e, th en add 54 of a pint of


E spagnol e or oth e r r i ch brown s auce Redu ce a .

l i ttl e an d strai n i nto an oth e r s auc e p an S t i r or


.

wh i sk i n a p at of fresh butt e r, an d a large


t ablespo onful of b eef m arr ow, pr e v i ously cut i nto
sm al l dic e an d p oach ed Th e s auc e i s th e n ready
. .

N O T E : In most cas es wh ere B ord e l ai s e s auce


i s use d, an d esp e c i al ly so wi th b e ef , s om e thin ,
roun d sl i ces of beef m arrow are blan ched an d put
on th e me at b efor e i t i s s erved , or else h e ate d
up i n th e s au c e .

B or de aux S auce : P e el an d m i nc e n el y two


sh allots , reduce w i th 1 gill of cl aret wi th $5 a
t e asp oo nful of crush e d white pepp er corns , a
sprig of thym e , and a sprig of marj oram Wh en .

ab out h al f reduc e d, add 1 gill of e spagnol e s auc e ,

an d bo i l for 1 0 mi nut es , th en str ain , r e h eat , an d -

whi sk i n 1 teasp oonful of anch ovy or craysh


butt e r Se as o n t o taste, and use as d i r e cted
. .

B r e ad S auce ( S auce au P ai n ) : 4 oz fresh .

b re ad crumbs , 1 s mall onion , 1 clove , 4 p e pper


-

c orns ,
1 pint of milk ,
1
7$ o z fresh butter
.
,
s alt , 2
t abl e spo onfuls cream .
T HE BOOK or SA U CE S 41

P ee l th e on i on , stick in it th e clove , put th e


onion an d mi lk in a saucep an , bo il up add th e ,

bre ad crumbs and th e p eppercorns c ook for f


-

t e en minutes R e move the onions an d pepper


.

c orns stir in th e cre am an d butter se as on wi th


, ,

a pin ch of salt and ke e p hot until required for


,

s erving If lik e d th e onion may b e c ooked


.

longer p as se d through a sieve and added to th e


, ,

s auc e ; th e cream can b e o m itted ; if foun d too


th i ck , a little h o t water c an be added B re ad .

and gam e b i rds


i
s auc e i s usu ally s erved w th ro ast fowl , turkey
.

B r e ad S auce ( No Peel, sl i c e and minc e


.

very nely a small onion ; simmer till q uit e s oft


i n a pint of milk ; strain i t over about 6 o unces
o f stale bre ad , free from crust and broken up
small ; let it s o ak for an h our, beat up wi th a
fork, an d seas on with a l ittle nutmeg or groun d
mace , cayenne an d salt L astly add an ounce of .

butter and bring gradual ly to the boil stirring ,

a ll th e time .

B r e a d S a uce ( N o Insert two clov e s into a


.

sm al l p eeled onion put i t into a stewp an wit h


,

a pint of milk , an d l e t it in fus e over a gentle


h eat for 3 0 mi nutes T ake out th e onion ad d
.
,

a sm al l cup of breadcrumbs an d s e as on to tast e ,

wi th salt and p epper ; boil gently for ve m i n


utes stirring continual ly th en add ha l f an o un ce
, ,

of butt er and a tablesp oonful of cream ; stir and


blend all thoroughly, th en serve .

B r e ad S au c e ( N o Put h alf a pint of mi lk


.

i nto a s auc epan , to this add the c rumb of a di n


n er ro l l an d a sm a ll peeled onion ; bring slowly
to the boil stirring occ asion ally and c ook fo r
, ,

1 0 minutes T ak e out th e onion add an oun c e


.
,

o f butter, and s e ason to t as te with s al t an d


c ayenn e an d a grat e of nutmeg B eat up well .

till quite smooth still over the re and th e n ,

s erve .

B r e t o n S a uce ( S a uce Br et o nne ) : Prepar e a


pint of brown onion sauce in th e usual way blen d ,

it with tom ato s auce , an d thicken with a little


h aricot bean pur ee .

Br own B utt e r S au c e ( B eurr e N oi r ) : Take 3


ounces of butt er on e tablespo onful of min ced
,
42 T HE BOOK O F SA UCE S
p arsley a small dessertsp oonful of our, 3 tabl e
,

sp oonfuls of vinegar , pepper and s alt to t aste .

M i x th e butter our an d parsley together, th e n


,

p ut this int o a s aucepan and stir until it i s


melted , ad d salt and p epper t o tast e an d lastly
th e vinegar an d stir over a rather h ot stov e for
,

t en minutes .

B r o wn Fi sh S auce ( S au c e Br une p o ur P o i sso n ) :


lb sh b ones , etc ,
. o z butter 1 dessert
. .
,

spoonful of our one t ablesp oonful E nglish c orn


,

our 1 g i ll cl aret ( option al ) thre e quart er s


, ,
-

pint sh st ock or water, 1 slice d onion 1 sm all ,

bun ch s avory h erbs ( bouquet garn i ) , 4 mush


roo ms , s alt an d p epp er t o taste .

Fry the sh b ones , etc , i n th e butter over a


-
.

q uick re, add th e on i on and fry als o stir in th e ,

our and c or n our an d let th e our get bro wn


,

whilst stirring ; ad d th e c arrot , herbs an d mush ,

ro oms , an d moisten wi th th e claret and th e


stock S tir till i t b oils an d let simmer fo r
.

twenty minutes Pass through a tammy cloth


.

or n e s i eve , s e as on t o t aste , an d s erve If lik e d .

t he mushro oms m ay b e ch oppe d nely an d pu t


i nto th e s auce at th e l ast .

Cold B ul g ari an S auce N o 2 ( B ul ga r e S auce ) : .

This c an also b e m ade with a c old t om at o s auce ,

blended with a little m ayonn aise wi th the addi ,

tion of a l ittl e nely shredded or chopped c ooke d


c elery .

B ur gun d y S auce ( B our gui gn onne S auce ) : T h i s


i s a brown s auc e c omp os ed of E spagn ole s auc e ,

t o which nely minced onions an d p arsley r e ,

duc e d in B ur gun dy wine avored with thym e, ,

b ay le af , cloves an d m ace , h av e been added


-
.

S train or tammy th e sauce s eas on t o taste an d ,

s erve h ot .

B u tt er S au c e ( S au c e au b e urr e ) : P ut 1 %
ounc es of butter into a stewpan , togeth er wi th
a grate of nutmeg an d 2 sal t sp oon ful s of mig
,

n onette pepper Wh en th e butter is h ot add


.

1 o z of our and c ook gently whilst stirr i ng


.
, ,

t ak i ng care th at th e our does not brown Wh en .

th oroughly c ooked add not quite 1 p i nt of b oi l


i ng milk , st i rrin g al l th e time until it form s th e
consistency o f ordinary whit e s auc e ; if s tr o n g
THE B OOK or sa uc n s 43

our is us ed it will take a little m ore m oisture .

Reduc e a little , and then add gradually 4 to 6


oun ces of fresh butter stirring quickly during
,

this operation S h ould the sauc e appear to turn


.

oily, add a spoonful of c old water, avor with a


littl e lemon juic e an d salt and pass through ,

a tammy This s auce can be used as foundati on


.

for a number of s auc es but it sh ould n ot b e,

m ad e to o long before it is required to b e used .

Cr e a m e d B u tt e r S auce ( B e u rr e Cr m eu s e
S auce ) : B eat or whisk 3 -egg yolks an d add 4
ozs of butter stir int o it sui c i en t richly a
.
,

v or e d boiling stock S tir over h ot water till a


.

cream like s auc e is obt ai ne d


-
.

B yr o n S auce : R educe half a p i nt of d emi


glac e sauce with a gill of cl aret th en add 2 nely ,

chopped tru fe s , an d se as on to taste .

Cal vi ll e S au c e : S train
th e juice of a lemon
an d an orange int o a cle an s auc e pan to this add ,

4 t ablespoonfuls of d e mi glac e or other well -

avored thin bro w n sauc e , a few drops of liquid


c ar min e , a pinch of paprik a pepper, h al f an
ounc e of me at gl az e , an d two nely choppe d
peeled sh al lots ; bring to th e boil skim, add a ,

wi n e glas s of dry p ort or B urgundy win e an d a


-

te aspo onful of c a stor sugar S e rv e hot wi th .

r o ast birds , such as teal , sarcelle , or wild duck .

Ca m br i dg e S auce ( exc ellent wi th C old M e at o r


S al ad ) : 4 eggs , 4 llets of anch ovi e s 1 tabl e ,

spo onful of c ape r s 1 dessertspoonful French mus


,

tard , 1 t easp o onful E nglish must ard , 2 t ablespoon


fuls olive oil 1 t ablespoonful tarragon vin egar ,
,

tarragon and ch e rvil, c ayenn e p arsley or oliv e s , .

P ound i n a mort ar th e h ard b oil ed yolks of -

e ggs , an chovies , capers a sprig of t arr agon an d


,

cherv i l ; then add French mustard , E nglish mus


tard , a pinch of c ayenn e pepper, an d moiste n
w i th th e oliv e oil an d tarrag on vin egar Rub .

th e whole through a n e t ammy or h ai r sieve ,


st ir in a littl e mor e oil and vinegar , an d work
to th e desired c onsistency ; keep it on th e ice till
want e d , an d add a little ch opp ed parsley or o l i v e s
just before s erving No salt is n eeded o n ac
.
,

c ount of th e an ch ov i es us ed i n making this s auc e .


44 T HE BOOK or SAUCE S
Cam b r i dg e Sauce ( Col d) : T o a pint of m ayon
n ais e s auc e , add a t ablesp oonful of p a rsley
ur ee, a dess ertsp oonful of nely ch opped c apers ,
p
and a t easpo onful of anch ovy p aste M i x well .
,

an d avor with a little m ade mustard .

Can oper e S auc e : Th i s consists of a h ot sh


s auc e m ad e with sh , c ourt b ouillon an d blon d -

roux , enrich ed with sui c i e n t craysh butt e r t o


avor and c olor .

Cap e r S auce ( S auce a ux Cap r e s ) : 1


7$ p i nt
melte d butter sauc e , 1 tablespo onful c ap ers ,
tablesp oonful vin egar .

M i x with th e melt ed butter s auc e a t able


spoonful of c ap ers an d th e vin eg ar B oil up and .

s erv e wi th b oile d sh , mutton , etc .

B r o wn Cap e r S auce ( S au c e aux Capr e s b r une ) :


A brown s auce , espagnole or demi glace c ontain -

ing co ars ely c h opped capers , season ed with nut


m eg an d black pepper .

Car di n al S auce : p i nt v e lout e o r bch ame l


s auc e , 1 oz butt e r, juice of
. lemon , y o z
l .

l obst e r c or al or one oz lobster butter , on e .

dessertsp oonful me at gl aze , 1A gill mushroo m ;

l i q uor , s alt , p epp er, nutmeg .

R educ e th e sauce w i th th e mushroom l i quor,


s e ason w i th s alt , pepp er , an d a grate of nutmeg ;

add th e lemon juic e , an d whisk in th e butter an d


-

lobst er butter or c oral, th e l atter nely ch opp ed .

S train or tammy Return t o th e stewp an an d


.

add th e m e at gl aze , stir till smo oth , an d ke e p h ot


i n the bain m ari e till require d
-
.

NO TE : When this sauc e i s required for


m ai gre dish es use b ch amel m aigre sauce in plac e
of v elout e . O mit th e me at gl aze and ad d in i t s
plac e $4 gill of cre a m .

Trim an d w ash th e wh i te par t


Ce l e ry S auc e :
of a large he ad of celery p e el a go od sized oni on ,
-

c ut both up small and boil in salte d water till

tender , drain , and ch op very nely Rub th e .

yolks of two hard boiled eggs through a s i eve ,


-

an d m ix with h al f a teacupful of cre am and a

l ittl e white stock , ad d the celery an d onion , and


a te asp oonf ul of chilli vinegar S eas on to tast e .

wi th salt and p e pp er an d ser v e ho t or cold .


T HE BOOK O F S AUCE S 45

Ce l e ry Cr e am S auc e ( Cr e m e de C l r i ) : 1
small h e a d of celery, 1 pint mi lk 1 oz butter ,
.
,

1 oz .our , a li ttle cre am , salt , pepper , an d


nutmeg .

Remove th e best p art of th e celery wash w e l l , ,

blanch it drain and steep in cold water ; cut th e


,

c elery into small pieces , put in a stewp an with


th e milk di luted with a littl e c old stock add
, ,

s om e salt, boil up , skim an d cook till tender ,


.

M e anwhile prepare a white roux i e dissolv e ,


. .

the butter in a ste w p an add th e ou r an d stir , ,

o ver the re until the l atter is c ooked with out


browning ; th en add gradu ally th e c elery and
st ock , let b oil a little longer , p as s through a
tammy cloth , return to th e stewp an S e as on t o .

tast e w i th salt , p epper and nutmeg S tir over ,


.

th e re until it boils th en add a littl e cre am an d


, ,

keep in th e bain m ari e until required


-
.

Cha mp agne S auce : 54 pint of espagn ole s auc e ,


3

1 glass of ch ampagne , 2 cloves 6 p epperc orns , ,

1 b ay le af-
.

Put th e cloves , pepp e rc orn s , b ay l e af an d -

espagnole sauc e into a stewpan on the re ; let


it reduc e a little , add th e ch ampagn e , and the
ess enc e rem ai n i ng from th e braised h am Reduc e .

the whole for ten minutes or longe r if found ,

t oo thin S train through a pointed strainer an d


.

serve with braised ham .

Whi t e M u shr oo m S a uce ( S auc e Champi gno ns ,

B l anche ) : 1 % gill b ch amel s auce 1 % gill ,

whi t e stock , 1 0 mushro oms , 1 d essertspoonful


lemon juic e , white w i n e , 1 tablespo onful cream
-
.

B oil t ogeth er th e bch amel s auc e and the veal


st ock ( or o th er whit e stock ) an d reduc e to about ,

hal f its origin al qu antity S kim well and add the .

preserved mushrooms cut into slices 1 t ablespoon ,

ful of mus hr oom liquor, lemon jui ce and about -

h alf a gill of Ch ablis o r oth er white wi ne Let .

the wh ole bo i l , se as on t o t as te , th e n add on e


tablespo onful of cream , an d serve .

B r o wn M u shr oo m S au c e ( S a u c e Cham pi gn o ns ,

br une ) : pint demi glac e s auce , 1 glas s sherry ,


-

and 1 0 champign o n s ( preserve d mushrooms ) .

Ch op nely th e pres erved mushro oms ( ch am


p i gn o ns ) , put them in a s m all stewp an wi th a
46 T HE BOOK or S AUCE S
little of th e liquo r and th e sh erry, cover an d
allow to reduc e well N ow ad d th e demi gl ace or .
-

thin espagn ole s auc e ; b oil up, skim , seas on t o


t aste , an d use as required .

Cha ss eur S auc e : pint M ad e re sauc e, gill


game liquo r ( fumet ) , lemon juic e , an d 1 to 2 -

livers of gam e .

ChO p the liver nely an d c ook with th e s auc e


and liquor of game for about ten minutes season ,

t o ta st e, add a t easp oonful of lemon juice an d -

s e rve .

Cha s seu rRo y al S auc e :


1 small onion , b ay le af ,
p a rsley , t hyme , m arj oram , 1 0 p epp erc orns , 1 glass
p ort win e , pint espagnole sauc e , 1 teas po onful
anch ovy e ssence gill of d oubl e crea m
,
.

Ch op the bones of the sh used , an d put in a


stewpan with the trimmings of the oysters , th e
sliced onion , bay leaf sprig of p arsley and thym e ,
-

and a sprig of marj oram .

M oisten with th e p ort win e let i t reduce t o ,

h alf th e origin al q uantity K eep well c overed .

during th e process Now add th e crush ed p ep .

e co n s, anc hovy essen c e , an d espagn ole s auc e


p r r ,

o r 1 gill of brown stock S immer for twenty .

minutes , remove th e scum , an d p ass through a


t ammy cloth o r very n e p ointed strainer Re .

turn t o th e stewp an , add a littl e seas oning if


n eeded , an d nish with gill of doubl e cream .

K eep very h ot , but n ot boiling, an d us e as


directed .

Chat e aub r i an d S a uce ( a l so c all e d Cr ap a u di n e


S a uce ) gill Ch ablis or S autern e wi ne 2
: 1 ,

cloves , 1 sprig of thyme , 2 shallots , 1 2 p epper


corns , about 1 % gill m eat glaze , th e j uice of
l emon , 2 oz butter , an d teasp oonful ch opp e d
.

t arragon .

P eel an d c h0p th e shallots , put th em with th e


w i ne , cloves , thyme , an d crushed pepperc orn s i n
a small stewp an , c over an d reduc e to hal f i ts
quant i ty, s train into an oth er stewp an , add th e
lemon juice Work in th e m eat glaz e and butter
-
.

bit by bit ( keep th e stewpan in th e b ain m arie ) , -

a d d th e tarragon last of all Whisk well , an d .

s erve very hot wi th llet ste ak , Ch ateaubr i and,


e tc .
THE BOOK or S AUCE S
Chau d fr o i d S a u c e
-
B lan c h e ( Whi t e Chand
,

fr o i d S auc e ) : pint bch amel or supr e m e


s auce , 1 gill aspic , 5 o r 6 le aves Fren ch gelatine ,
1 gill c re am , 1 te asp oonful chili v i n egar or lemon
j uic e
.

D issolve th e gelatine along with th e aspic j e ll y,


warm up th e s auce , an d mix th e two together .

S tir over th e re until it boils , put in vin egar


o r lemon juice , and cook for a few minutes
-
.

S train o r t ammy ; a dd th e cre a m when co o l ing,


and use as re quired .

Cha u d f r o i d S auce B l o n de ( Fawn Chaud f r o i d


-
,
-

S auc e ) : pint aspi c j elly , 1 gill al leman de


sauce , gill cre am , 1 tablespoonful espagn ole
s auc e, oz French leaf gel atine , a gl ass of
.

M adeira wine peppe r an d salt


,
.

M elt th e aspic j elly in a stewp an add th e wi n e , ,

espagnole , an d allemand e s auce l e t it com e to a ,

boil , and skim S o ak th e gelatin e in c o ld water


.
,

s q ueeze i t well, an d put with the sauce ; wh e n dis


solved , stir i n th e cream p ass th rough a t ammy
,

cloth o r ne strain er, and us e as direct e d .

Cha u d fr o i d S a uce B r une ( B r o wn Chaud fr o i d


-
,
-

S auc e ) : 1 4 pint espagn ole or s almi s auc e , 1 gl a s s


M adeira o r sh erry, pint aspic 4 le aves Fr e nc h ,

gelatine , and cream .

B oil up th e s auce D iss olve th e gelatine wi th


.

th e aspic , mix both t ogeth er , add th e wi ne , l e t


simmer f or a fe w minutes , and p as s through a
t ammy cloth , add a little cre am , and avor t o
t aste.

Chau d f r o i d S auc e Gr een or Pi nk :


-
, Pr e pare a
whit e ch aud froid sauc e , to wh ich add a few
-

drops of spinach greening to gi ve it a green tint ,


o r a few dr 0 p s of liqui d c armin e or cochine al
to giv e it a rose or pink t i n t .

Che s t nu t S au c e ( S a v o ur y )
Par roast a : -

p oun d of previously slit ch estnuts , and rem o v e


th e outer skin , th en put them in a saucepan of
boil i ng water, an d cook until th e inner skins can
b e easily removed When this is d on e , stew
.

th e chestnuts i n seasoned milk till tender then ,

rub through a sieve S eas on to tast e with salt


.

an d pepper , an d dilute th e pur e with a littl e


rich gravy ; reheat , and serve with roast turkey,
48 T HE BOOK or SA UCE S
or as a s auc e with grilled and deville d legs of
a cold ro ast bird .

Che s tn ut S au c e S lit a ( S av o ur y or S w ee t ) :

d ozen c h estnuts and boil th e m in water , then


drain an d remove b oth shell an d skin fro m th e
chestnuts Next put th e m i n a s aucepan with
.

a glass of claret , an d a gill of water, c over, and


c o ok till t ender , then rub through a sieve R e .

h eat th e pur e wi th en ough s eas one d stock t o


form a s auce , s eason wi th a pinch of cayenne
and a grate of nutmeg .

N o t e : If th e s auc e is re quire d sweet us e ,

syrup i n place of stock, an d omit th e cayenne .

V eni so n S auce ( Chevr eui l S au c e ) : p i nt


e spagn ol e s auce , 1 gl ass p ort wine , 1 dessert
sp oonful red currant j elly, 1 oz le an ham , 1 oz
-
. .

butt er, gill vinegar , 1 sm al l oni on , 1 2 pepp er


c orns , 1 bay le af, sm all c arrot , thyme , p arsley
-
.

M ince nely th e onion an d ham , fry th es e i n


th e butter, an d add th e vin eg a r , crush ed p epper
c orns , bay le af, mince d c arrot , an d a littl e thyme
-

an d ch opp e d p arsley C ove r an d b oil for ten .

minutes Th en add th e esp agnole s auc e , p ort


.

w i n e , an d th e red currant j elly C ook fo r ten


-
.

m i nutes , ski m and strai n , s eason t o t ast e , r e h e at , -

and use as requi red .

Chu t ne y S au c e : ake a s auce th e s a me a s M


d i rected for venis on s auc e , omi tting th e red cur ~

r ant j elly, and adding inste ad on e h eape d up -

tablesp oonful of mango chutn ey, which must b e


ch oppe d up rath er nely .

B r o wn H e r b S auce ( Co lb e r t S auce aux F i ne s


H er b e s ) .1 % gill espagn ole s auc e , 1 glass of
M adeira wine 1 t ablespo onful of me at glaz e ,
,

1 % o z of fresh butter , 1 te a spo on f ul lemon j ui ce


.
-

,

ch opped p arsley, t arragon , and ch e rvil one des
se r t sp oon f ul i n all .

Put th e s auc e int o a small st ewpan stir ov e r ,

th e re until hot ad d th e wi ne an d let b oil a


, ,

few minutes Remov e t o th e sid e of th e stov e


.
,

an d st i r in gr adual ly th e butter an d the meat


glaze B eat up with a smal l whisk but do n ot
.
,

let i t b oil again L as t of al l add th e l emon juic e


.
-

and th e ch opp ed h erbs S erve as d i r e ct e d If . .


THE B OOK or S AUCE S 49

d es i re d ri ch e r o z more butt er may b e added


,
.

i n the ma nner described .

Cr e am S auce ( S auce a l a Cr e m e ) : Put i nto a


s aucep an th e yolks of two eggs 3 t ablesp oonfuls ,

of cream , 2 t ablespo o n ful s of velout o r oth er


ri ch white sauc e an d whisk in h alf an ounc e of
,

fr esh butter ; s eason with a pinch o f s alt an d


p aprika p epper , and l a stly add a t e aspoonfu l o f
l emon juice S tir or whisk , an d c ook in a b ain
.

mari e till it becomes of a cr e amlike c onsist e ncy .

A spi c or S av or y Cr e am ( Cr e m e 5 l A sp i c ) : .

gi l l bch am el or allem and e s auc e , 1 te asp oon


ful t ar ragon v in eg ar , p i n t aspic j elly , 1 gi ll
double cre am, c ayenne mi gn onette pep pe r ,
.

Warm up th e bch amel o r al l eman de s auc e ,

a dd th e t ar rago n vinegar stir th i s i nto th e liqui d ,

as pic j elly mix with it the cre a m s e as on with a


, ,

p inch of c ayenne an d mign onette pepper Pas s .

through a si e v e or t ammy cloth , an d us e as


d i rected .

Co l d Cucum b e r S auc e ( S auc e a ux Co nc o mb r e s ) :


cucumber gill b ch amel s auc e ,
,
gill
cr e am , 1 gill mayonnai s e s auc e, s alt, p ep p er t o
t ast e spinach greening
,
.

Peel th i nly th e cucumber an d cut in t o sm all


p iec es b o i l in s al ted water till tender, an d rub
,

through a h ai r sieve R eturn th e p ul p to t he


.

s t e wp an add th e bch amel sauce ; let it reduc e


,

t o ab out h alf th e origin al qu antity, an d let it


c o ol W hip th e cre a m unt i l sti ; work i n the
.

m ayonn ais e s auc e , and mix slowly w i th th e r e


duc e d c old s auce add a l i ttl e s alt an d p epp e r
,

i f n e eded also a few drops of spin ac h g re en i ng


, .

T he s auc e i s th en ready fo r us e .

Cucum b er S a uc e N o 2 ( S a uc e a ux Con com .

br es ) : P eel a small or half a lar g e c ucumbe r ,

cut it i nto piec es an d boil till ten d er in salted


,

water or white sto ck D rain well , and rub it


.

through a ne sieve Put th e pulp into a small .

stewp an and let reduc e to h alf its quantity wi th


,

a gill of B ch amel s auce ; se as on to taste strai n ,

again and add t o i t as tabl espo onful of M ayon


, ,

naise s auc e i nto this st i r th e col d cucumbe r


,

p ee and place on th e i c e
u r , Wh i p up gil l of .

c r e am Th e sauc e is th e n r e a d y f o r s e rvi ng
. .
50 T HE BOO K or S AUCE S
Cu c umb e r S a uc e , Hot ( S a u c e aux Con com br esf
c hau d e ) i s m ade in th e s ame way, by omitting
th e mayonn aise an d adding an extra quantity of
hot bch amel s auce Cook for ten minutes befor e
.

s erving .

Cr ab S auce : Remove the meat from a crab


an d shred it nely, th en se a son with s alt an d
p aprik a p eppe r Put it in a s aucepan cont ain i ng
.

a pint of melte d butter sauce , an d l e t it simm er


for t e n minutes S erve h ot . .

Cr an b e r r y S au c e :
W ash an d d rai n h al f a p i nt
of cr anberries , and c ook th em in a st e wp an with
h alf a p int of water an d on e oun c e o f c ast e r
sugar ; wh en sui c i e n t l y tende r, pass th e m
throug h a n e sieve, th en mix w i th th e pur e a
gill of c o oked appl e pulp , s eason to t aste, an d
us e wh en c old .

Cum b er lan d S auce ( a Co l d G am e S au ce ) : 2


shallots , 1 or ange , 1 lemon , 1 dessertspoonful mu s
t ard , gill port wine , ground ginger , 2 t able
sp oonfuls red currant j elly, 2 t ablesp o onf ul s
-

vi negar , s al t, p epp er, c ay e nne .

M i nc e th e sh allots , p ut th em i n a st e wp an wi th
th e thin rind s of th e lemon an d orange cut i nt o
n e Juli e nn e str i p s A dd h alf a gill of wat e r
.

and c ook for ten minutes , th en strain an d return


to th e stewpan , adding th e m i xed must ar d, p ort
win e , a pinch o f ground gi nger, r e d currant j e lly, -

th e juice of the lemon an d orange , an d th e vi n e


g ar S e as on w i th s al t , p epper, an d a p i nc h o f
.

c ayenn e , boil up, strai n , and serve c old w i th any


k in d of game or ducks A g i ll of esp agn ol e s auc e
.

added i mproves th i s s auc e .

Cum b er la n d S auce N o 2 : C ut v e ry th i nly th e


.

out er rind of an orange , th en cut the strips int o


n e shreds Put th e m into a sm all e ar thenwar e
.

s auce pan ( c as serole ) , p our over hal f a gl as s of .

d ry p ort w i n e , an d plac e on th e side of th e st o v e


t o get warm , th en a llow to cool an d st i r i n
ab out a teaspo onful of mi xed E nglish must ar d a ,

go o d pinch of salt , an d the strai ned ju i c e of


th e orang e N ext melt about 2 ounces of r e d
.

currant j elly and stir int o th e ab ove A v e ry .

smal l qu antity of s p i c e suc h as c ayenn e or


T HE BOO K or sa ucn s 51

paprika pep per m ay b e added if l i ked . T h i s is


c onsi der e d ess ential by m any chefs .

Cur ri e S auce : P r e p are the followi ng : P e el 1


onion , scrap e nely 1 smal l carrot, pe e l 1 s m all
appl e an d ch op all up very small Fry thes e in .

a saucep an with 1 ounc e of butter , th en ad d 1


tablespoonful of curry p owd er an d h al f a p int
of tomato pur e or sauc e S e as on t o tast e wi th .

s alt an d pepper, th en add a go od ladl e of


esp agn ole s auc e B oil for s everal minutes p as s
.
,

through a ne strainer, th en add a little cho pp e d


gh e rkin an d s om e n ely cho pp ed p arsley .

Cur r y S a uc e : P e el an d sl i c e a s m all on i o n ,

scr ap e and s l ic e3 small c ar rot fry both togeth e r ,

i n half an ounc e of butter ; wh e n th e oni on h as


a c q uired a light brown color add on e tab l e ,

s p o onful of m i ld curry powd e r and st i r for a f e w


secon ds Next add a sm all p e el e d an d ch o p p e d
.

'

appl e , m oi st en w i th h alf a gill of tom ato pul p


an d a g i ll of brown sauc e A llo w to boil for a .

f e w minutes S e as on to t as t e , an d p as s i t
.

th r o ugh a n e strai n e r Reh e at an d st ir in l as t


.

o f all a nely cho pp ed p i ckled gh e rkin .

D ani sh S a uce ( S auce D an oi s e ) : 2 o z b utt e r , .

1 oz our, 1 glas s sh er r y ,
. gi ll C h ablis or
S autern e , 1 p i nt sh stock , o z grated P arm e .

s an , 2 te asp oonfuls me at gl az e, 1 t e aspo onful


a nch ovy ess ence , 1 gi l l cr e am , o z l ob st e r .

c oral salt and p e pper


,
.

M elt th e butter in a st e wp an , s t i r i n th e o ur ,
l et i t c ook a few mi nut es without t ak in g c olor .

M o i sten wi th th e wine an d sh stock S ti r .

until it b oils , then add th e an ch ovy ess enc e meat ,

glaze , and grated cheese S e as on t o tast e wi t h


.

p epper an d s al t , let simm e r gent l y fo r a few


m i nut e s , sk i m an d p ass through a n e s i ev e .

Return t o a cl e an st ewp an an d bring to a b o i l .

Work i n th e cre am an d lobster coral or l o b st e r


butter K eep h ot but do not let i t b o i l agai n
.

S erve wi th dress ed shs alm on , turbot , s o l es or


, .

l o bst e r .

D emi Gla ce S auc e ( Hal f Gl aze S auce ) :


- 3
54
p i nt e spagnole s auce , 1 % gill goo d gravy , pepp er .

Reduc e t o a half glaz e espagnol e s auc e wi th


-
52 T HE B OOK or S AUCE S
th e gravy from roas t ve al or b eef ( strain e d an d
fre e from fat ) ; al low to simmer ab out ft een
minutes , and s e as on with a pinch of pepp er .

D e vi ll e d S auc e ( S auce D i abl e ) : pint demi


glace s auc e , 1 tablespo onful mixed mustard 1 ,

d essertsp oonful Worcester s auc e , oz butt er, .

2 nely mi nc ed sh a llots , cayenn e , p arsley .

Fry th e sh al lots i n th e butter to a golden


c olor, add th e d e m i gl ac e s auce , mixed must ard ,
-

Worcestershire s auce , an d a go od pinch of c ay


enne S tir until i t boils, skim an d p ass through
.

a n e strainer , add a t easpo o n ful of nely


c h oppe d p arsley, an d s erve .

D u c h e ss e S auce : T ake h alf a p i nt of r i ch l y


s e as one d me at gravy, thicken i t w i th half an
ounc e o f arrowro ot , mi xed pr e v i ously with a
little c old water or st ock , th en add 1 tablespo on
f ul of liqui d m eat glaze , an d a wi n eglassful of
dry wh i t e wi n e an d a t e aspoonful of red currant
j elly B o i l up, s i mme r for a few minutes , an d
.

S CI V B .

P r a wn S auce ( S auc e aux E c r evi s se s ) : P ro


c e e d th e s am e as for s auc e Cardin al an d i nclud e

1 2 prawns h ead s , which must b e cut i n q uarter s


an d plac ed i nto th e s auc e a f ew m i nutes b efor e


s e rving .

Cr ays h S auce ( E c r e vi sse S auce ) : M i x h al f a


pint of B ch amel s auce with a gill of sm al l
p eeled craysh tai ls , and nish the s auc e with a
l i ttl e craysh butter as liai son .

E chal ot e S auce ( Shall o t S a uce )


P repare a :

brown gravy o r de m i glace sauce add to it so m e


-
,

n ely m i nced sh allot s previously blended in but


t e r , s om e le m on juice t o avor , and n ely
choppe d p arsley .

E pi curi en n e S auce : smal l cucumb e r, 1 gi l l


1
mayonn aise , gill cre am , 1 t ablesp oonful t ar
ragon vinegar, 1% gi ll aspic j elly , 1 t e asp oonful
anchovy ess enc e , 1 dess ertspo onful ch opped
gh erk i ns , 1 dessertsp o onful chutn ey, p ep p e r, s alt ,
sugar .

P ee l th e cucumber, cut i t into s m al l p i e ces ,


c o ok t i ll tender in salted wat er, strain an d rub
throu g h a n e h ai r s i e v e Wh e n cold, s tir thi s
.
T HE B OOK or S AUCE S 53

pur e gr adually into th e mayonnais e s auc e ad d ,

the c re am , as pic , an chovy essence , th e vinegar ,


an d chutney ( th e l atter sh ould previously b e
rubbe d through a sieve ) ; se ason wi th peppe r
and s alt an d a small pin ch of c ast e r sugar ; ad d
the ch opped gh erkins and a few drops of sp in ach
greening to give it a greenish tint This s auc e i s .

especially suitabl e for as paragus , artichokes or ,

boiled sh .

E pi cur e S auc e ( E p i cur e a n S a uce )


Th is i s a :

whi te sh s auc e c onsisti ng of a rich white sauce ,

mixed with a littl e essen c e of craysh nely ,

chopped trufe s , chill i vin egar, and c ayenn e p ep


p er to t aste .

E sp agn o l e S au c e ( S p ani sh S a u ce ) : 3 q u ar t s
of rich stock 4 oz le an ve al 1 bou q uet g arni
,
.
, ,

1 2 pe pperc orns 4 oz butter 4 o z our ( sift e d )


,
.
,
.
,

4 oz raw h am or le an b ac on 1 carrot 1 onion


.
, , ,

2 cloves pint to ma t o pulp 1 gill claret 1


, , ,

gl as s sh e rry, s om e mushroom s ( fresh o r p re


s erved )

.

T his i s th e chief brown f ou d at i o n s auc e i t


n

forms th e b asis for a large number of other


s auces It is advis abl e th at p articul ar c are an d
.

attenti on be p aid to th e prep aratio n of thi s i m ~


p ort an t s auc e Th e ingredients g.i ven will pro ~

duc e about hal f a gallon of s auce A sm alle r .

quantity can be prepared by reducing th e quan


ti ties in proporti on It is h owever advis abl e .
, ,

t o h ave at all times an ample supply of th i s


s auc e .

Wash and p eel th e c arrot , turnip an d onion , ,

cut up small an d put in a stewpan with th e


bouquet p epperc orns cl oves an d th e ve a l and
, , ,

h am bot h cut into pi ec es


,
A d d an ounc e of .

butt er and stir over th e re until of a nic e


,

ligh t brown c olor ; this forms a tru e mirepoix .

P our e d th e fat moisten t he mirepoix with t he ,

s tock , cl aret sh erry an d t o m ato p ulp b oil


, , ,

gently for about an hour S ki m occ asionally . .

M e anwhile prep ar e a brown roux by melting


,

3 oz of butter in a stewp an stir in th e our


.
, ,

an d co ok v ery slowly over a moderat e re ,

stirring all th e while with a wo oden spoon until


i t ac quires a ch estnut brown color ; or place th e -
54 T HE B OOK or SA UCE S
stewp an in th e oven an d let it cook , st i rri ng
from time t o time t o pr event it fro m burning,
and t o blen d th e our better A llow the roux .

to c ool a little , p our in gradually th e prep are d


stock , etc , stir over th e re until it boils , let
.

simmer slowly for an other h our, skim well, an d


p ass through a tammy cloth or ne sieve If .

foun d t o o thick , ad d a l i ttl e m ore stock To .

prevent a thick c rust forming on th e top of the


s auce , stir occ asion ally un til quite co ol K eep .

th e s auc e in a ston e vessel or p an until wanted .

B e sure and boil up th e s auc e e ach d ay i f n ot


use d at on e ti m e , adding a littl e stock i f

n e cessary .

E ss en c e de Gi bi e r S auce : Th i s i s a brown
s auc e ( demi glac e or M ad e re ) enrich e d wi th
-

e ssenc e of gam e .

Tarr ag on S au c e ( S auce a l E st r agon ) : Th i s i s


a thin brown sauce of th e demi glac e typ e a -

v or e d with tarragon l eaves It i s usually s erve d


.

with p oultry or quenelles .

Far m h o u s e S au c e ( S auce F e r mi er s) : Tak e


h al f a pint cf E sp agnole s auce , blen d i t with
nely ch oppe d ham , ch oppe d p arsley an d c ap ers .

T his s auce i s usually s e rved with game .

F ennel S auce ( S auce F en o ui l ) : To a p i nt of


well reduce d white s auc e ( B ch am el or D utch
-

s auce ) , add s ome nely ch opped fennel M i x i t .

w ell an d serv e with boiled sh .

Fl emi sh S a uc e ( S auce Fl am an d e ) : P repar e a


D utch s auc e avored with sh st ock , th en thick e n
i t wi th yolks of eggs as liaison , an d avo r i t
with a little prep ared mustard .

Fl eur e tt e S au c e : Th i s i s a whit e s auc e , serv e d


w i th sh or vegetables , m ad e with the usu al pro
p ortion s of our, butte r an d e ur e t t e ( which i s
th e n ame applied to th e rs t ski m ming of mi lk
wh i ch i s rath er sweet ) ; s e as on th e s auc e wi th
s alt an d pepper to t aste .

F i n an ci e r e S auc e : Prepare a r i ch brown s auc e ,

reduc e with sh erry or M ars al a an d mushroo m


li quor, an d enr i ch i t wi th liqueed m e at extract .

T hinly slic ed tru fes , sm all mus hrooms an d


co ok s combs are adde d wh en th e sauc e is re ady
-

fo r serving .
THE BOOK or S AUCE S 55 .

G am e S auce ( S au c e Gi bi e r ) : S ome game b on e s


and trimm ings, 1 pint espagnole or brown sauce,
gi ll sher r y, oni on , c arrot , turnip , p arsley ,
thym e , marj oram , bay l e a f, mace , clove
c
.

The trimmings , c arc asses , etc , of any k i n d of . .

gam e m ay b e used for this s auce ; thos e of grouse


or woodcock ar e preferable Ch op sm all th e
.

trimm i ngs of game , put th em in a stewpan w i th


a small on i on , a piece of c arrot , an d a pi e c e of
turnip al l cut in sli c es, a few sprigs o f p arsley,
a sprig of thym e, on e of m a rj oram, a b ay le af a -

sm all piec e of mac e , an d on e clove m oisten wi th ,

th e sh erry, c over and put o n th e re to c ook for


ve m i nutes Now a dd th e esp agn ol e o r brown
.

s auce , let i t c om e q uickly to a boil , an d keep


s i mm ering for fteen minutes longer P as s .

through a t ammy cloth return to a cle an st ew


,

p an , se as on w ith a little s al t if n e c e ss ary , an d


keep h ot i n th e bain m ari e unti l re qu i r e d for
-

s e rving .

Gar i bal di S a uce : Prepare a G nois e s auc e


m ad e with meat or sh b asis , avo r it wi th a

suspicion of pounded garlic an d curry p owder,


n ely ch op pe d c apers and anch ovy essenc e or
,

p aste to which a littl e c hili vinegar sh oul d b e


added , just enough to avor C areful bl en ding .

of the above n amed avoring ingredient s i s os


sen t i al wh en mak i ng th i s s auc e .

G n ral e S auce : This i s a r i c h brown s auc e


m ade wi th a b asis of D emi glac e o r M ad r e -

which i s reduced with a small q uantity of lemon


j ui c e an d tarragon vinegar A little n ely .

shredded orange rind pr e vi ously reduce d i n


,

s ome sh erry is th en add ed


,
Th e s auce is a
.

v or e d wi th very little garlic or sh allot , bay le af ,

clove an d mac e C areful blending of the a v or


.

i ng i ngredi ents is most essent i al for th i s s auc e .

G n o i s e S auce : M
elt an ounc e of butter in a
stewpan and fry in it a sliced onion a sh allot,
, ,

h alf a cl ove of garlic an d a smal l bouquet g arni ,


add a glass of B urgundy , an d let simmer until
th e onions ar e don e , th en a dd a pint of
E sp agn ole sauce , and let simmer gently for ten
m i nutes S tr ai n through a n e siev e or t ammy
.
,

add a pinch of mi gnonette pep pe r , and a t ea


56 T HE BOOK or SAUCE S
sp o onful of anch ovy e ss en ce an d use as d i rect e d ,
.

G en o i s e S a u c e : N o 2 Prepare a mirepoix . .

of 1 carrot, st i ck of c elery, 1 onion 2 fre s h ,

mushro oms , an d 2 ozs bacon, all cut into d i ce . .

M elt 1 oz of butter i n a s tewp an, add the


.

ab ove mirep oix , al so on e b ay le a f and a few


p eppercorns, an d fry for ve minutes over a
b r isk r e A dd on e tab l esp oonful of our, stir
.

t i ll i t ac qu i res a nut brown color M o i st en with


-
.

one glass of B urgundy w i n e an d pint o f sh


s to ck .B oil up an d simmer for h alf an h our .

S tra i n , an d season t o tast e Re h eat and s erve .


-

a s require d for sh .

G no i s e S auce ( R i c h B r o wn F i sh S auce ) : 1
s li ced oni on 1 sh allot ,
cl ove of garlic 1 o z
, ,
.

b utter, sm all b ouquet garni , 1 t e asp oonful an


ch e vy essenc e , 1 glass red win e ( B urgundy ) , 1
p i n t espagn ole s auc e ( m ad e fro m sh sto ck i f
desired ) a pinch of mignon ett e pepper
,
.

M elt the butter i n a stewp an , an d fry on i on ,

sh allot , garli c an d bouquet , add th e wi n e let


, ,

simmer until th e onions are don e , th en add th e


s auce , an d l e t simm er gently for t en m i nutes .

S train through a n e si eve or t amm y add th e ,

p epp er and anchovy ess ence , an d us e as r e quired .

Gib l et S auce : B oil s ome pr e v i ous l y wash ed


g i blets in s e ason e d w ater with an onion Wh en .

d on e strain t ak e up th e gible t an d onion an d


, , ,

ch op b oth n ely Put this pure into a s aucepan


.

w ith a piece o f butter, add th e str ain e d st ock and


gravy an d a sm all glass of cl aret ; se as on wi th
arom atics an d s alt S immer slowly for about ten
.

minutes longer, then blen d with a little I I Cll


b rown s auc e or roux r e h eat an d s erv e h ot ,
-

, .

G o o s eb e rr y S au c e ( S au c e aux gr os e ill e s ver t es) :


P ut h alf a p oun d of green gooseberrie s in a
s aucep an with a very little water an d cook till ,

s oft then m ash th em gr at e in a little nut m eg


, , ,

an d sweeten with c astor sugar to taste P ass .

through a siev e an d nish wi th an ounce of


butter S erve with ro ast pork or ro ast go os e ;
.

i t is als o s ometim es serve d with b oiled m ackerel .

A l i ttl e spin ach greening m ay b e added to the


s auc e if liked .

G ou S au c e : R e qu i re d : 1 gi ll cr e am , gill
T HE BOOK or S AUCE S 57

wi ne v inegar , 3 yo l ks of eggs 1 b ay le af 6 ,
-
,

crush ed p epp ercorns , s alt , 2 oz butter, 2 table .

spoonfuls of cream, 1 tablesp oonful chop pe d lob


ster meat .

Put th e v in egar b ay leaf, an d pep perco rn s i n


,
-

a stewp an ( covered ) ; le t it reduc e a little A dd .

th e yolks of eggs an d stir over th e re unt i l th e


s auc e begins t o thicken, then remove an d put in
a s auc ep an cont aining boiling water or in th e ,

bai n m ari e
-
. Work i n the butter a little a t a
time, als o th e c ream, stir vigorously with a sm al l
whisk P a s s through a n e strainer or t ammy
.

cloth , r e turn t o a cle an stewp an ad d th e chopp e d ,

lobster and a pinch of s alt , stir ag ai n , pl ac e a


few bits of butt e r on to p , an d kee p h ot unt il
r e q uir e d for serving .

Granvill e S auce : Prep ar e a wh i t e w in e s h


s auc e or other r i ch white s auce , to wh i ch ad d
s ome nely ch opped preserve d m ushrooms ( cha m
pign ons ) , als o a few picked sh rim p s an d n ely
chopped t r ui e s .

Gr a vy Wi tho ut M eat : C ut up i nto t h i n s l ic es


h al f a peeled onion an d a small scraped c arrot ,

fry both in hal f an ounc e of butter o r dripping ;


wh en nicely browned add h alf a pin t of water ,

an d a teaspo onful of M armi t e o r S avoy extrac t .

B o i l up , se ason with s al t and pepper , an d c oo k


for ten minutes S kim well , the n str ain an d serv e
.

as re qu i red .

S ee also J us Gr avy-
.

Gr een M o u ss elin e S auce ( S au ce M o uss eli ne


v e r te ) : T o half a pint of m ayonnais e add a
t ablespoonful of s avo ry herb pur e prep ar ed a s
follows : B lan ch a h andful of p arsl ey, tarragon ,
ch ervil , and a little fennel, drain , a n d pound in
a m ortar with 2 peeled an d ch opped sh al lots a ,

t e as po onful of c ape r s , 2 gherkin s , 2 ll e tt e d


anch ovies , 1 h ard boile d yolk of egg, an d a
-

t ablespo onf ul of salad oil Rub through a n e .

sieve , mix a t ablespo onful o f tarr agon vi negar


wi th hal f a gill of as pic j elly whis k all t o ,

gether till f r ot hli k e, th en stir it into th e pre


p ared m ayonn aise .

Gri bi c he S au c e : T ake h alf a pint of M ayon


n aise s auce , and add suici e n t m ixed m ust ard t o
58 T HE BOOK or S AUCE S
avor, th en stir in s om e nely chop p ed fresh
s avory h erbs ( nes h e rbes ) an d s erv e .

H ac hi s S auc e : M i x some well reduce d brown


s auc e with a little rich gravy fro m ro ast meat ,
then add nely ch opped mushro oms ( ch am
pign ons ) , al so ch opped gherkins and c aper s i n
due prop ortion C o ok a little and serve
. .

Ham S auce ( Ja mb o n S auce ) : Pr e p ar e a r i c h


b rown s au ce , an d mix it wi th nely shredded ,
grat e d , or ch opp ed ham , ch opped chives , sh al lots ,
and p arsley, pr e viously blende d i n butter, th en
avor with l emon juic e an d th e n ecess ary se a
B on i n B o i l u p an d s erv e hot
g . .

H ssoi se S a u c e : Prep ar e a goo d h ors e rad i s h -

s auce with grated h orse radish , sour cre am , an d


-

fresh breadcrumbs ( previously s oake d i n milk ) ;


s eason to t aste wi th c astor sugar, wh i t e p e pp e r,
an d salt This s auc e i s usual ly s erve d h ot
. .

Ho ll an dai s e S auc e ( Dut ch S auce ) : C rus h


ab out a dozen p eppercorns , put the m in a s auc e
p an with 2 t ablespoonfuls of Fren ch win e v i n e
gar and 4 t ablespo onfuls of water Cove r th e
.

p an an d pl ace it on th e re , boil f ast to c onfus e


th e c ontents of the p an It sh oul d b e r e duc e d
.

t o about one h al f its volume S tir o r wh i sk in


-
.

4 yolks of eggs , th en by d egre es whisk i n 4 t o 6


oz of fresh butter , an d lastly add about a gill o f
.

h ot wat e r S e aso n with s alt an d th e juic e of


.

a lemon P ass th e s auc e through a n e tammy


.

cloth Return it t o a clean s aucep an , which must


.

stan d i n a p an of h ot ( n ot boil i ng ) water K e ep .

i t thus t i ll re qu i re d for t abl e .

Dut c h S au c e ( Holl a n dai s e ) : T ak e 4 eggs , 4 o z .

b utter , 4 t ablesp oonfuls of water , 4 t ablespo onfuls


of t arragon vinegar, 1 dess ertspo onful of our ,

an d th e juic e of h alf a lemon M i x th e butter and


.

th e o ur togeth er i nt o a p aste , put t hi s into a


s aucep an wi th th e v i negar and water, st i r fo r
a few m i nut es th en ad d th e beaten yolks o f th e
,

four eggs Whisk unt i l the m i xture thickens or


.

b i nds , but on n o acc ount allow it t o b oil When .

re ady to serve add th e strained juic e of h al f a .

lemon G re en D utch s auce is m ad e by adding a


.

little S pin ach greening, just su fcient to giv e it


a sag e green tint .
T HE B OO K or SA UCES 59

No 2 : Re
Dut c h S a uc e ( Ho ll an da i s e S auc e ) .

q uired : 3 yolks of eggs , 2 oz butte r, 1 gill .

b ch amel s auc e , 1 gill stock, th e juic e of hal f a


l e m on , salt and pepp e r .

B o i l up th e s auce , remove t o the S i d e of th e


stove and whisk in th e yolks of eggs , add th e
stock ( sh , chicken , r abbit or veal ) , mix th or
oughly an d ad d the butter gradu al ly , se as on with
p epp e r an d s alt an d the l em on j uic e P as s -
.

through a tammy an d us e B efore adding th e .

butter th e s auc e should be sui c i e n t l y he ated to


bin d th e eggs . Gre at c are must b e taken t o
prev e nt curdling A noth er way t o m ake this
.

s auc e is t o o mit th e bch amel and t o use 4 yolk s ,

of eggs to a gill of stock , wh i ch is nish e d


wi th 4 oz of butter Th e rst i s the most co n
. .

v e n i e n t an d m ost p opular way This s auc e , wh e n .

nish ed , is t o b e just h ot , an d on n o acc ount must


i t be allowe d to re ach th e boiling po i nt .

N O T E : A less expen siv e H olland ai s e s auce


c an b e made by adding a sm al l quantity of
b ch a mel or oth er go od w hite sauc e to the abov e .

Ho ll an da i se S au c e ( N o 3 ) ( Ine xp ens i v e ) : T ak e
.

2 t ablespo onfuls vin egar , 1 sh allot , pe eled and


ch opp ed , 1 bayle af , 6 white p eppercorns crushed ,

1 gi ll wh i te s auce , 2 yolks of eggs , 1 teaspoonful


l e mon juic e , 2 o zs butter , and s alt t o t aste
. .

P ut th e v i negar ( Fr e nch w i n e v i negar i n pref


e r e nc e t o m alt vinegar ) with th e sh allot , bayl e af
an d pepperc orns , i n a s aucepan , and reduc e t o

h alf its origi n al quantity ; add th e wh i t e s auc e ,


l e t it bo il , rem ov e the bayleaf an d stir i n th e
yolks of eggs Wh en it begins to thicken , re m ov e
.

from th e re an d strain into an oth er saucepan .

Re h e at , t aking gre at c a re that the S auce do es


n ot curdle , an d whisk in th e butter by degrees ;
lastly ad d the l e mon jui c e and enough s alt to
t ast e S erv e with b o iled sh , artich okes , asp ara
.

gus , e tc.

Holl a ndai s e S auce ( N o Put into a j ar th e .

yolks of four eggs 4 ozs of fresh butter h alf a


,
.
,

te aspo onful of mign onette pepper, a peeled and


ch oppe d sh allot a teaspo onful eac h of tarr agon
,

and chilli vi n egar Put th e j ar into a s t e wp an


.
60 T HE BOOK or SA UCE S
c ontaining boiling water, and stir over th e re
till it thickens Then str ai n and s erve
. .

Ho ll anda i se S au c e ( N o . Put on e sliced


onion , S ix p epperc orns, a b ayleaf, int o a s aucep an
w ith 2 ounces of fresh butter ; stir over th e re
un ti l th e butter i s melted then add a l evel ,

t ablespoonful of our, fry a little wi th out brown


i n g, an d st i r in gradually of a pint of whit e
s tock , s eas on wi th a littl e gr ate d nutmeg an d

s alt, stir until b oiling, co ok S l owly for 1 0 minutes ,

t h en add th e yolks of 3 eggs an d th e ju i c e of


h alf a le m on , stir until it thicken s , but d o n ot
l et i t b oil again , th en strai n and s erv e .

Gr e en Dutc h S au c e ( S a uc e Ho ll an dai s e V er t e ) :
M i x H ollandaise or D utch sauc e wi th su i ci en t
y oung p arsley l e aves ,
boiled ,
drai ned ,
p ounded ,

a n d rubbed through a n e S ieve t o imp art a,

green tint B len d well , reh e at an d serv e h ot


. .

Ho lst ei n S au c e : Prep are a whit e s auce of the


B ch amel typ e , reduce it well with sh stock an d
w hite wi n e , th en thicken with a liais on of egg
y olks and avor wi th lemo n j uic e an d very
,

littl e nutmeg S erve h ot


. .

Horl y ( or O r l y ) S auc e : B lend S upr en e or


oth er rich white s auc e with t om ato pur e an d

m e at extract or li queed m eat glaze an d nish ,

by whisking in fresh butter S erv e h ot . .

Ho rse r adi sh S au ce : G rate a stick of w ash e d


and scrape d h ors eradish an d put it in a b asin
,

w i th a little le m on juic e Rub th e yolks of two


.

h ard boile d eggs through a sieve and mix wi th ,

a b out four t abl espoonfuls of cream ; season with

s alt an d p epper an d ad d a t easpo onful of m ad e

must ard an d h alf a gill of vin egar ; stir till well


blend ed , then stir in th e prepared h orseradish ,

a n d th e s auce will b e re ady for s erving a fter

s tan ding for ab out two hours .

Ho r s e r adi sh S au c e ( No . Grate nely a


stick of wash ed an d scrap ed h orseradish Whip .

up h alf a pint of thick cream a n d add a t able ,

s po onful of chilli vin egar an d a t easpoonful of

F ren ch or E nglish must ard S tir i n th e grated


.

h o rs e ra di sh , mix th o r o ughly, an d s e rv e .

Horser adi sh S auce ( No . Grat e n e ly two


T HE BOOK or S AUCE S 61

t abl e spoonful s of h orseradish after it has been


w ell w as hed an d scraped , th en poun d it in a
mortar add a teaspoonful of salt an d hal f a te a
,
.

spo onful of c astor sugar M i x it gradually with .

a gill of cream , th en stir into it quickly h alf a


gill of vin egar , n ext add a te aspo onful of m ad e
mustard and a pin ch of cayenn e or N e p aul
pepp er .

H o r s e r a di s h S auc e
-
hot ( S au c e Rai f or t , ,

Ch au de ) : 2 tablesp oo n fuls grated h ors e radish -

pint b ch amel te aspo onful c astor sugar ,


,

pinch cayenn e and s alt te aspo onful vinegar ,


.

M ois ten the h orse radish with th e v i n egar , -

mi x with the s auce and boil up whi l st stirring ,


.

A dd th e sugar and c ayenn e allow it to S imm er ,

a few minut es takin g gre at c are th at th e s auce


,

d oes n ot curdle ; if found too thick ad d a table ,

sp oonful of cream or milk S erved with ho t roast .

be ef, etc .

Ho r s e r adi s h Cr e am c o ld ( Cr e m e d e Ra i f o r t
-
, ,

fr oi de ) : 1 % oz grat e d h ors e radish 1 gill thick


.
-

cream , 1 t ablesp oonful white wine vinegar 1 ,

t easpo onful c astor sugar te aspo onful powd e r e d ,

mustard ,
s altspoonful salt a pinch of c ayenn e ,
.

Put th e h ors e radish i n a b as in ad d th e sugar


-

, ,

mustard , s alt and cayenne ; moisten wi th th e


,

vi negar S tir in gradually th e cre am an d whisk


.
,

gently for a few minutes S erve in a s auc e .

bo at wi th c ol d ro ast beef e tc ,
.

Ho r s e r adi sh S au ce Ic ed ( S a uce R ai f o r t fr ap
-
,

p e ) : 1 stick h orse radish 1 gill cre a m o r milk


-

, ,

1 teasp oonful mixed must ard 1 te as p oonful c as ,

t o r sugar 2 te aspo onfuls vin egar


,
.

Grat e th e horse radish as nely as p ossible -

put it in a b asin stir in th e cre am or milk t he


, ,

vi ne gar mustard an d th e sugar S tir well an d


, , . .

p o ur into a s auc e b oat .

When mi lk is used , a t ablespoonful of con


d eu c ed S wi ss mi lk S h ould b e mixe d wi th the
fresh m i lk and th e sugar S h ould th en be o mitted
, .

Freez e till a s emi li qui d consistency s erve -

wi th trout or oth er sh .

B o ar s H e ad S au c e ( S a uc e Har e de S angli er ) :

Prepare a s auce with S evill e orange juic e and ,

t he n e l y chopped rind , c as tor sugar r e d curr an t


-

,
-
62 T HE BOOK O F S AUCE S
j elly, p ort wi n e , an d prepared mustar d, i n due
proportions , th en se as on wi th s alt an d blac k
p epper M i x well and s erve cold
. Th i s s auc e .

i s also us e ful for al m ost every kind of cold


m e at, and will keep for some tim e i f b ottle d .

In di an Cur r y S au c e ( S au c e In di enne ) : Re
q uired : 1 % o z butter, o z our ,
. s mal l .

onio n, 1 t ablesp oonful curry powder, % pint goo d


1 -

sh stock , s alt , 1 tom ato , a few s avory h e rbs,


glass S h erry or M ars ala .

M elt th e butt er, add th e onion , nely cho p pe d ;


wh e n of a n i ce light brown stir in th e our an d
curry powder, bl end well an d co ok for ve mi n
-

utes ; p our in gr adu a lly th e sh stock , add th e


t om ato cut i nto S lices , an d th e h erbs ; bring it
,

t o the b oil whilst stirring , th en add the wine ,


s e as on to t aste , c o ok for twenty minutes , strai n
an d s erve .

It ali an S au c e ( S auce Ital i enne ) : Re qu i r e d :


pint E sp agnol e s auc e , 4 sm all S h allots , 8 pre
s erved mushro oms , a sprig of thyme , 1 b ay l e af, -

1 tablespoonful swe et o i l , 1 gl ass C h ablis o r


S autern e ,
gill stock

Peel th e S h allots, ch op th em nely , pl ac e in


th e c orner of a cle an cloth, h old tightly wr appe d
up under c old wat e r, th en squeeze out th e wat e r,
an d put th e m in a sm all stewpan with th e oil ,
s tir over th e r e for a f e w m i nutes , to blen d
but not to color A dd th e wi ne , th e mushro oms
.

( nely chopp ed ), h erbs ,


an d th e stock ,
let it
re duc e well , an d add th e esp agnole B oil fo r ten .

m i nutes , t ake out th e herbs , fre e it from th e oil ,


and keep h ot in t he b ain m ar i e until re qu ir ed -
.

J o i nvi ll e S auce : R equired : 1 oz our, .

g i ll sh stock , % pint white st ock , 3 o z butter,


3 .

3 yolks of eggs , lobst er coral, lemon j u i ce , s alt , -

an d c ayenne .

M elt 1 oz o f butter i n a s aucep an , stir i n th e


.

our , an d c ook a li ttle wi thout browning A d d .

gradual ly th e sh an d whi te stock , stir until i t


b oils , and let S immer for twenty minutes P ound .

th e lobster c or al i n a mort ar with an equ al


qu antity of fresh butt e r, rub through a sieve
and stir into th e s auc e S tir in th e egg yolk s
.
-

on e at a tim e S e as o n t o tast e with a pinch o f


.
T HE B OOK or SA UCE S 63

c ay e nn e, salt an d lemon jui c e Whisk well ov e r -


.

a slow re or in a b ain marie D o n ot let th e


,
-
.

s auc e b oil up ag ai n Pass through a n e poin t e d


.
-

strain er or n apkin , and serve as di r e cted .

Joi nvil l e S auce ( N o Kn e ad an oun c e of


.

butter wi th an ounc e of sifted our in a stewpan ,


put it in the h ot stove and stir for a few min
utes , s o as t o cook the our ( be c areful n ot t o
l e t the our get brown ) A dd th e liquor from .

th e l lets , an d about h alf a p i nt of white stock ,


stir unt i l it boils , an d let S imm er fo r ab out 1 0
m i nut e s . Remov e th e sc um , stir in 2 mor e
o unc e s of butter an d 2 yolks of eggs S e a s o n .

wi th white pepper an d salt , add a few drops of


lemon juic e an d sui ci e n t lobster sp awn t o giv e -

th e sauc e a pinkish tint but d o not on an y ac ,

count let th e sauc e boil ag ain S ti r it long .

e nough over th e re s o as to bind th e l iaison .

Pass th e s auc e through a n e strai ner o r t am my


c loth , an d use same as directed .

J us ( B r o wn Gr avy ) R e quire d : 2 o z b e ef
: .

s uet or 1 oz dripping , 2 lb trimmings of meat ,


. .

1 onion , 1 carrot , he ad celery 2 cloves , 1 ,

blad e mace , 6 peppercorns , bouque t of h e rbs , 2


quarts wat e r .

Put th e be ef suet or dr i pp ing in a ste w pan,


add a slic e d onion an d c arrot fry till brown , ,

put in the be ef trimmings or oth er m eat and ,

any bon e s of meat o r c arc as s of poultry L et i t .

bak e i n th e oven for fteen minutes , t ak e up ,


p o ur off th e fat, an d m oisten with th e wate r .

A dd th e c elery, cloves , m ac e , peppercorns an d ,

bou quet of herbs L et th e wh ole simmer gently


.

f o r sev e ral h ours , t ake off fat and scum an d ,

strain . S e as on with s alt as required A few .

drops of c aramel m ay be added if th e gravy i s


n ot sui ci en tl y brown .

K ar i S auc e : This i s a m ild kind of cu r ry


s auce composed of white sauc e avored wit h
curry and cre am .

Le m on S auce ( S auc e au Ci t r o n ) : M elt an


ounce of butter i n a stewp an , stir in h alf oun c e -

our an d h al f ounc e of c or n our ; c ook a little


-

wi th out browning an d gr adually stir in h alf


,

p i nt milk ; a dd the thin rind of h a lf a lemon ;


64 T HE BOOK or SAU CE S
c o ok whi l st stirring for ten m i nut e s D il ut e .

w i th a littl e stock ( and this m ay b e sh, v egeta


b le , me at o r chicken stock, ac co rd i ng t o th e
dish w ith whi ch it i s s erved ) , add i ng th e j uic e
of h alf a lemon at th e s ame tim e S e ason with .

p e pp er an d salt ,
c ook fo r an oth e r ve minutes .

N O TE : Th e yolk of an egg and a littl e cre am


m ay, i f l i ked , b e add e d to th is s auc e .

Li v our n ai se S auce : T hi s i s a c old sal a d s auc e


o f the Vin aigrette typ e , prep ared wi th p o unde d
an ch ovy llets , h ard b oiled yolks of eggs , swe et
-

o il, v i negar , c hopp e d p ar sl e y, p e pp er an d nut ,

m eg A ll ingredi ents must b e used in du e propor


.

t ions an d b e well blend e d b efor e th e s auc e i s


s e rv e d
.

L o b st er S auce ( S auc e Ho m ar d ) : T ak e h al f a
p i nt of bch am el s auce, add t o it two he ap ed up -

t ablespo o nfuls of n ely ch oppe d lobster, i nclud


i ng a li ttle c oral or sp awn ; m i x , and h e at up
c ar e fu l ly whilst st i rr i ng ; s eas on w i th a pinch of
c ay e nn e or p ap rik a p epper , an d s erve wh e n h ot .

L ob s t er S auc e ( N o . S lit a sm al l h en l ob
st e r , t ak e out th e c oral , and crack th e cl aws ,

th en r emov e al l th e esh and cut i t i nto v e ry


s mall pie c e s o r d ic e P oun d th e coral in a mort ar
.

w i th h al f an ounce of butter, and rub th rough a


n e s i ev e M elt in a st ewp an 1 ounc e of butter
.

an d ad d about % of an oun ce of our, bl e nd all


1

w e l l t ogeth er, then add a gill of water and a gi ll


of milk , an d stir this mi xtur e over th e re until

i t bo i ls an d thickens ; co ok i t for ab out ten min


utes , th en strain and r eh eat , now add a little
c re am , and stir well until i t b oils again , then
whisk i n , by degrees , wh ilst off th e re th e c oral ,

butt e r, stir t i ll it i s quit e sm ooth , s e as on wi th


s al t , p epp er and a pinch of cayenne, put in the
ch opped lobster last of all to th e s auc e , mix well ,

an d nish with a little lemon juice .

L y onn ai s e S auce : M i x a well m a d e t omato


s auce with nely cut sm all shreds of S p anish
oni ons ( previ ously frie d in butt er ) ; nish th e
s auc e with a little liqueed me at gl aze an d lemon
juic e an d s e rv e h o t .

M ad e i r a S auce ( M a de r e S auc e ) : Pro ce ed the


s am e as for D emi glace A dd o ne glass of sh erry
-
.
T HE B OO K or SAUCE S 65

o r M ars al a ; reduce a l i ttl e longer th an the


above , an d ni sh w i th a littl e me at glaz e .

M ai nt e n o n S a uce : B l e n d about a gill of wh i t e


onion pur e ( S oubise typ e ) with two or thr e e
e gg yolks an d hal f a p i nt of h ot Velout e s auc e ;
-

reh e at se as on to tast e wi th salt an d wh i t e pep


,

p er, an d s e rv e h ot .

M ai nt en o n Sauce : N o 2 Th i s sauce i s e sp e
. .

c i al l y adapte d for so call e d gratin d i sh es , and


-

must th erefore be we l l reduc ed t o th e c orrec t


cons isten cy 1 pint B ch am el sauc e , 4 yo l ks of
.

eggs , 1 tablespoonful P a r in e san ch eese , 1 tabl e


sp oonful c ooke d on i on p ur e, garl i c , p ap ri k a
p epper , nutmeg .

B oil th e B ch am e l s auc e fo r about ft ee n mi n


utes , st i rring continually ; ad d to i t th e yolks of
eggs , P armes an ch ees e , co oke d onion p ur e ( S ou
bise ) , a suspicion of garlic , just enough to i m
part th e arom a, a p i nch of pap r i ka p epper , an d
a little grated nutmeg ( salt if needed ) S tir t ill .

i t t hi ckens , w i thout all owi ng i t to bo il, an d use


as re q ui red.

P ar sl ey or Fi ne H e r b S a uce ( M ai tr e d Hotel

S auce ) : pint B ch amel or Velout s auce 3 ,

oz butter,
. lemon , 1 te as po o nfu l of cho pp e d
p arsley se as oning .

P ut th e s auce i nto a st e wp an , a dd a litt l e


water, st i r un til i t bo i l s, and reduce well Wh i sk .

i n th e butter a little at a tim e and rub through ,

a t am my cloth or ne h ai r S ieve R eturn to th e .

stewp an , ad d th e p arsley an d le mon ju i c e, s e as on -

with p epp er and s al t .

M ai tr e d Hotel S auce ( N o

W arm u p 1
.

p i nt of b ch am el s auc e, ad d t o it a tablespoonful
of nely ch opp ed p arsley, a f e w chervil an d
t arragon l e aves , an d a tables p oonful of lemon
juic e ; work up wi th an ounc e of fr e sh b utter,
an d serve h ot .

M al ag a S au c e : T ak e s ome goo d brown s auc e ,


enrich it wi th li queed meat glaze , then blen d
it with p ort win e and lemon juice , reduc e well ,

season with c ayenn e an d avor w i th nely


ch opp ed and previously frie d sh all ots S erve h ot . .

M al t ai se S au c e : D ilute and re duc e nely


cho pp e d p ars l ey, sh al l ots and m ushr o om s wi th
66 T HE B OO K or SAU CE S
sh erry, an d blen d wi t h Vel out e or A llemand e
s auc e, then avo r w i th lemon juic e an d add
n e ly S hredded orange r i n d .

M chan d de V i n S auc e ( Wi ne M er chant


ar
S a uce ) : P eel an d ch op nely 3 S h allots , t os s
th e se , i e bl e nd i n a stewp an c ontaining h al f
. .

an ounc e of butter, th e n pour i n a g i ll of claret ,

c over, an d r educ e a l i ttl e N ext ad d h al f a p i nt


.

of D emi glac e or E s p agn ol e s auc e , a small piec e


-

of m e at gl az e , an d enough s alt and pepper t o


tast e . B oi l up wh il s t stirr i ng, sk i m , and let
S immer fo r a few minut e s L as tly stir i n h alf a .

p at of fr e sh butter, an d about a teaspo onful of


lemon juice Th i s s auc e i s usually s erve d wi t h
.

g r i ll e d ste ak or llets of b e e f .

M ar gu ry S auce :
T ak e s om e wh i t e s h s auc e
( of th e M orn ay typ e ), blend it w i th oyster
p ur e , s eason t o t aste with salt and whit e p ep
p e r, an d nish w i th a l i ttle d ouble cre am .

M ar i n ad e S auce : C ut a l arg e c arrot an d two


p eeled onions in S l i c es , and fry th e se v e get able s
i n o i l with a b ay le af, a spr i g o f thym e, a clove
l
-

o f garl i c , a sprig of p arsley, two ch opped sh al


l ots , and a l ittle crush e d p e p p e r Wh en th ey are .

fr i e d w i th out tak i ng a brown c o l or, m oisten w i th


a m i xture of v in egar and wat e r, add i ng a l i ttle
s alt A ll ow t o simmer for twenty minut es , th e n
.

s tr ai n an d rep e at w i th a p int of E s p a gn ol e s auc e .

M ar i
nade S auce N o 2 : p i nt stock ,
. gi l l
v i negar, 1 t ablesp oonful our, 1 o z butt e r , 1 .

s mall c arrot , 3 S hallots , thyme , 1 c l ove , parsley,


b ayle af , ch i ves , our .

M elt th e butter i n a stewp an , a d d th e slic ed


c arrot , S l i c e d sh allots , a spr i g of thyme, an d th e
cl o ve Fry a l i ttl e, th en add a fe w spri gs of
.

p arsley, a bay le af, s o m e chives , and a t abl e


-

sp oonful of our S tir over th e re for a few


.

m i nutes M oisten with th e v i negar an d sto ck ,


.

s e ason w i th p epp er an d s alt A llow t o S immer .

for h alf an h our, s trai n o r p as s through a tam


my cloth , and serv e as r e qu i red for rel e v s, r o a st
or brai sed gam e, e tc .

M ar i
ni e r e S auce : M i x s ome wh i te wi n e s auc e
wi th nely ch oppe d h erbs an d s h al lots p rev i o us ly
T HE BOOK or SAU CE S 67

b l e nde d i n b utt e r, an d enrich wi th a l i ttl e sh


e ssenc e .

M a t el o t e S au ce : pint of espagn ol e sauc e ,

1 oz butter,
. gi l l B urgundy win e gi ll sh ,

st ock liquor or f umet ,


,
o ni on , c arrot , gi ll
mushroom l iq uor .

Pe e l th e onion an d c arro t an d m i nc e very ne ,

fry i n a littl e butter a ni c e c olor, drain o the


butter, moisten with th e win e an d mus hroom
l i q uor let this r e duc e well , then ad d the sh
,

stock or l i quor an d th e esp a gn ole L et simm er .

for ten minutes ; th en strain th rough a n e


strai ner or cloth , add a smal l piec e of butter ,

s e as on , i f n ec essary, with a few dr OpS o f l e mon


j u i c e s alt and pe p per, and k e e p h ot
,
.

N O T E : Wh e n E sp agnol e i s n ot h an dy sub ,

st i t ut e for i t o z of our,
. o z of butter .
,

well blend e d ( fr i e d to a ch estnut brown ) an d ,

di luted w i th p i nt of rich bro w n stock ; b oil


well , s k i m , season , an d stra in .

M at e l o t e B l anche S auce : B len d a whit e s auc e


w ith mushroo m li quor, whit e wi ne , an d nely
ch opped peeled button mushro oms previ ously
blended i n butter C ook well S tr ai n , r e heat
. .
,

an d add ch oppe d oysters avor e d wi th ch opp e d


s avory herbs an d very l ittle anch ovy essence .

M t l o t e B r un e S au c e :
a e B len d a re d wi n e
sauce ( Gnoise, or M erch ant d e Vin ) wi th n ely
ch opped fri e d button onions an d button mush
ro oms , use d i n du e proportion ; avor wi th
ch oppe d s avory h e rbs and very l i ttle anch ovy
e ssenc e .

M ar s e ill ai se S a uce : lb ri pe t omatoes ,


.

c arrot , 1 smal l onion , 1 oz raw h am , 2 o z butte r


. .
,

1 oz our, 1 b ay le af, 1 pint chicken stock , 1 o z


.
- -
.

bacon ( fat ) , and salt , p epper t o tast e .

Remove th e stems o f the t om at oes cut th e m i n ,

h al ves , cro ssways , t ake out the p i ps an d ma s h


up , an d put th em i n a stewp an wi th the stock
and veget ables ; th e latte r should b e w ash ed ,

peeled , an d cut i nt o s l ic e s C ook slowly until


.

tender C ut up th e b acon and h am, put th em in


.

a st ewp an with 1 oz of butter, stir ove r th e re


.

for ve minutes ; ad d the our, an d c ook long


e nough to blend th e our ( do n ot l et i t get
68 T HE B OO K or SAU CE S
b rown ) ; n ow add th e t omat o pur e , the bay l e af , -

th e stock , an d th e chi cken A llow t o co ok t o


.

geth er S lowly for twenty m i nutes S eas on w i th .

p epper s al t and a pinch of arom atic se asoning


, ,
.

P ass through a tammy c loth o r h ai r sieve h e at ,

up aga i n , an d whisk i n th e rest of th e butter .

M axi mi l i an S auce : P repar e a T art ar e s auc e


an d blen d i t wi th sufc i ent tom ato pulp o r pur e
to gi ve i t a r eddish t i nt , then add sui ci e n t nely
ch o pp e d t arragon l e aves t o avor S e rv e cold
. .

M ay o nn ai s e S auc e : 2 yolks of eggs , 1 tea


sp oonful of French mustard , te asp oonful s alt ,
a pinch of p e pper, 1 t abl esp o onful of t arragon
v i negar, ab out $4 pint b e s t salad o i l, and 1
tablesp oonful of cream .

Put th e yolks i nto a b as i n , add the must ar d


( ra w ,
n ot m i xe d ), s alt an d p epper ; st i r q uickly
w i th a wo oden sp oon , adding, dro p by drop at
rst an d gradu al ly more , th e s al ad oil, and at
i nt e rval s a few dro p s of v i n e gar ; the v i negar
i s ad d ed wh en th e sauc e app e ar s t o o th i ck B y .

s t i rring w ell, th e mi xtur e sh oul d b e come th e


consistency of very th i ck cre am . A t l ast add
th e r aw cream, st i rr i ng all th e wh ile A little .

c o l d wat er may b e add e d i f foun d t oo th i ck .

I n h ot we ather th e b asin i n wh i c h th e mayon


n ai s e i s m ad e S h ould be pl aced i n a v ess e l of
crush e d i c e.

M ay o nn ai s e S au c e ( No .Put two yolks of


e ggs i nto a c l e an b asin , add a he aped up s alt
sp o onf ul of s al t , and stir with a wo oden spo on ,
add i ng li ttl e by l i ttle ( drop by drop ) on e an d a
h al f gills of b est s al ad oil , an d a t i nterv al s a
t abl e sp oonful of Fr ench wi n e vin egar C ontinu e .

t o stir v i go rously t i l l t he m i xtur e acqu i res a


c reamy sub st an c e , then add an oth er t ablesp oon
ful of v i negar, a te asp oonful o f m ix ed must ar d ,
an d lastly a fe w drop s of ch i ll i v i negar, an d us e
a s re q ui red.

M ay o nnai se S auc e ( N o . B re ak th e yo lk s
of 2 eggs i nt o a m i xing b as i n , ad d a p i nch of

c ast e r sugar, h al f a t e asp oonful of s al t, an d a

s altsp oonful o f mustar d .S ti r wi th a wooden


S poon t i ll s mo oth , th e n ad d drop by drop h al f a
p int of goo d o li v e o i l, s ti rr i n g br i skly al l th e
THE BOO K or SAUCE S 69

W e . care m ust b e t aken i n ad di ng th e


G reat
o il , oth e rwis e i t will curdl e Th e n a d d a dess e rt
.

sp oonful e a ch of t arragon and chilli vinegar, and


nally 2 tabl e spoonfuls of wh i pped cr e am .

M a y o nn ai s e S a uc e t om at e : To a p int of w e l l
prep ared an d f airly sti ff m ayonn aise add h alf as
much t om ato pur e o r c old tom at o s auc e M i x .

gradually, an d se aso n to t as t e .

M e di ci s S auce : B l e n d a n i cel y pr e p ar e d
B arn ais e s auc e wi th tom ato pur e p r e viously
diluted an d reduc e d wi th a l i ttl e r e d wi ne S e r v e .

h ot .

M el t e d B ut t e r S auce : 1 oz fr e s h b utt e r, 3
.
1
4
o z our , and
. p int c o l d wat e r .

Put th e butt e r i n a sauc ep an , wh e n m e lt e d


stir in th e our ( sifte d ) C ook for a few m o
.

ments whi lst stirring, a d d gra d u ally pint o f


c old water, c ontinue to sti r till th e sauc e bo i ls ,

an d allow to c ook fo r at l e ast t e n m i nutes A d d .

s alt an d pe pp er to t as t e, an d str ai n if n ece ss ary .

M i nt S auc e ( S auc e 9 1a M enthe ) :


. 2 t ab l e .

sp oonfuls nely ch oppe d gre en m i nt , 1 d ess e r t .

spo onfu l b r o wn sug ar , 3 t o 4 tab l esp oo n fu l s


v i n e gar .

Put th e mi nt i nto a b as i n , a dd th e sug ar an d


p our o ver a littl e war m w a te r, su fc i e nt t o d i s
solve th e sugar , c ove r an d l e t c o ol , th e n ad d th e
v in e gar , st i r well , an d p our i nt o a s auc e b o at -
.

M i nt S auc e ( N o . Was h a s m all b un c h of


green mint i n c old wate r , then str i p o the
leaves from th e stems , a n d chop the m nely .

Put th e m in a sm al l b as i n , wi th 1 % gil ls o f goo d


v i negar an d a littl e mo i st sug ar ; stir well , an d
s erve wh en re quire d T h e c orrect proport i on o f
.

mi n t and sugar to th e abov e qu ant i ty of vi neg ar


i s two t ablespo onfuls of ch opped m i n t an d on e
sm all d e ssertsp oonfu l of mo i st o r D e merar a
sug ar .

M i nt S a uc e ( N o . W as h an d d rai n a small
b unch o f gr ee n mi nt, sprinkl e over i t a g ood
p in c h of s alt, ch op i t n ely, an d add to every
tabl e s p o onful o f ch opp e d mint on e tab l esp oonful
of water, on e of whit e wi n e v i negar, an d a te a .

spoonful of c as t or sugar M i x well an d s e rv e


. .

N O T E : A pinch of b or ax ad d ed to thi s s au c e
i s cons i d e r e d by s om e c ooks an i m p rov e m e nt .
70 T HE B OO K or SAUCE S
M i r ab e au Sa uce : 1 gi l l esp agn ol e s auce , 1 %
gi ll sh stock, sm all onion , s m al l c arr ot ,
gill B urgun dy wine , 1 4 gill mus hroo m li quor,
1 % o z fr e sh butt e r, cho ppe d t ar ragon , c herv i l ,
.

and p ar sl e y .

Prep ar e t h e sh st ock from th e b on e s and


tr imm i ngs from fre s h sh P e el th e o n i on , s crap e
.

th e c arrot , an d m i n c e b o th ; fry th e m i n a littl e


butt e r t o a n i c e color , d rai n off th e butt e r, ad d
th e w i n e, c over and l et bo i l qu i ckly for a few
m i nut e s A d d th e mush ro om liquo r an d th e
.

stock , r e d uc e to about hal f th e o r i gi n al qu antity,


t hen st i r i n th e e sp agn ol e s auc e , and l e t s i mme r
for ab out v e mi nut es S tr ai n i nto a cle a n
.

s auc ep an , add the re m ai n de r of th e butt e r, about


a teasp oonful ( i n all ) of choppe d p arsley, t ar
r agon , and ch erv i l, al s o a few dro p s of lemon
juic e an d s e as on i ng i f found n e c e ss ary Whisk .

over th e r e until th oroughl y h ot ( n ot b o i l i ng ) ,


an d us e as d i r e ct e d .

M i r ot o n S auce : Bl e n d
s om e D e m i gl a ce s auc e -

with nely mi nc e d , bl anch ed an d fried onions ,


an d t om ato S auce , add vinegar an d mustard t o
tast e , r ed uc e well , s e as on wi t h s al t an d p e pp e r,
an d s e r v e h ot .

M o rn ay S auc e : R e qu i r e d : p i nt B ch ame l
s auc e, gill mush roo m o r I t alienn e s auce ,

gi l l cream , o z me at glaze or 2 t ablespoonfuls


.

half glaze of ch i ck en sto ck ,


-
o z grate d Parm e .

sa n ch eese , an d 1 o z fresh butt e r . .

Put th e B ch am e l sauc e i nt o a s auc ep an , r e


duce i t well, then a d d th e It al i an o r mushroo m
s auc e Le t i t b o i l up , Sk i m w e l l, an d ad d the
.

c re a m Place th e stewpan in a vess e l o f boiling


.

water st i r th e s auc e wi th a wh i sk , a d d i ng th e
,

grated ch e e se , butter and meat gl az e ; work i n


,

th es e i ngredi e nt s little by l i ttl e, an d st i r o r


whisk till th e s auc e has ac q ui r ed a creamy t ex
ture D o n ot allo w th e s auc e t o b o i l agai n
This sa uce i s usual ly s e r v e d with shi n which
. .

c as e a l i ttle sh ess enc e s h o uld al so b e i n corp o


rated b e for e s erv i n g .

M o uss e li ne S auc e ( Whi t e ) : Re qu i r e d : gi ll


cream , 4 yolks of eggs , 3 crushed long p epper
c orns, 1 oz but te r, s alt, nutmeg, l e mon ju i c e
.
-
.
T HE B OOK or SAUCE S 71

P ut th e cream , egg yolks , an d pepper i n a-

stewp an , plac e this in a b ai n mari e h al f l led -

wi th b oiling water b eat up wi th a whisk for a


,

little t i me, then add gradually littl e pieces of


butter, stirr i ng all th e while, but do not add any
more butter until each piec e h as been thoroughly
worke d i n and i s absorbe d i n th e sauc e Th e .

sauce wh en nishe d w ill have th e appearanc e of


a frothy cr e am , an d shoul d then b e passe d
through a tammy cloth Just before s erv in g n .

ish off w i th a few drops of lem on juice , a pinch -

of salt and a grate of n utmeg S h ould b e adde d


,

d ur i ng th e proces s of whisking S erve d w i th .

so uf e, llets of veal or fowl, as p aragus or arti


c h ok es .

M o uss eli ne S auc e V e r t e ( G r een M o uss e li ne


S auce c o l d) : Require d : 1 gill m ayonnais e ,
,

gill cold B ch amel sauc e , 1 t ablespo onful of


pickl e d pa r sley, a f e w sprigs e ac h of t arr agon ,

ch ervil, an d burn et , 2 t ablespoonfuls of c ooked


spin ac h , 2 h ar d boiled yolks of e ggs , 2 an chovy
-

l lets , and g il l of cream .

Wash an d p i ck th e gre e n h erbs , st ee p th em


in b oil i ng water for a few minutes drain well , ,

p ound i n a mortar wi th th e spin ach an d rub ,

through a ne s i ev e P ound the yolks of eggs.

and an ch ovy ll ets , mi x w i th th e green pur e ,

a dd th e cr e am, an d rub the wh ole th rough a


s i ev e
. Dilut e wi th m ayonn ai s e an d B ch am el
s auc e a d d a l i ttle season i ng an d a t e as poo nful
,

of mi x e d mustar d .

M us tar d S auc e ( S auce M o utar de ) ( for gr i lled


or b o ile d H errings o r M ackerel ) : 1 o z butte r .
,

oz p atent c or n our ,
. o z our 1 dessert .
,

spoonful of E nglish mustard , gi ll vinegar ,


p i nt sh stock, gi ll c r e am , pepper an d s alt
t o t aste .

M elt th e b utter i n a smal l s auc e p an , stir in


th e c or n our an d our and blen d over th e re,

wi th out browning A d d th e sh stock an d bring


.

i t to th e b oil, coo k for ten m i nutes M i x the .

must ar d wi th e nough vin egar t o mak e a smo oth


p as te , st i r thi s i nt o th e s auc e with the cre am ,

boil up agai n S e as on t o t ast e wi th pepper and


.

s alt , an d add a l i ttl e mor e vi negar just b efore


serving .
72 T HE B OOK or SAUCE S
M uss el S au c e ( S au c e a ux M o ul e s ) : M i x som e
H oll and ai s e or Dutch s auc e with c ook e d mussels
cut i nt o small dic e, s eas on t o t aste and s e rve h ot .

Na n t u a S auce : H e at up 1 % gi lls of B ch amel


s auce , and stir in 1% gill of cre am th en nish ,

with o z of craysh butte r C raysh t ai ls may


. .

i f li ked b e m i xe d wi th th i s s auc e j ust b e fore


s e rvin g .

Ni coi se S auce : B l e nd s om e De m i gl ac e s auc e -

w i t h a s mall quant i ty of concentrat e d Itali an


t o mato p ur e, se as on to tast e an d s e rv e h o t .

N o np a r e il l e S a uce : P r ep are a H o l lan d ai s e or


Dutch s auce , an d i nc orp orate s om e craysh or
lobst e r butt e r, th en add nely chopped lobster
meat, p reserved mushrooms ( ch ampignons ) , h ard
boiled whit e s of eggs , an d trufes , all i n du e p ro
p ort i ons an d n ely ch opp e d S erv e h ot . .

N o r m an de S au c e : 2 % o z butter, 1 o z our
. .
,

wh i t e stock, sh l iquor, 2 yolks of e ggs, an d


l emon ju i ce
-
.

M e lt 1 % oz of b utter i n a st e wp an , add th e
.

our, s t i r l o ng enough to co ok th e our, moisten


with about a pint of white stock an d a littl e

sh l i quo r A llow to b oil for ten minutes , skim


.

well, an d n i sh with a l i ais on o f 2 yolks of eggs .

S t i r i n gradually th e rem ai n der of th e fresh


butter, and a few d rops of lemon ju i c e Whisk -
.

well an d p as s th e s auc e through a n e stra in er


o r t ammy cloth .

N o r vg i enne S a uce : P r e p ar e a c ol d s auc e of


th e M ayonn ai s e typ e wi th h ard b o i led egg yolks-

pr e v i ously passe d through a S ieve , yolks of fresh


eggs, s al t , p epper , m ad e mustard, oil an d vin e
gar , th en m i x i n s om e n e ly ch op p e d s avory
h erbs S erv e c ol d
. .

N o i s e tt e S a uce ( N ut Sau c e ) : T ak e s om e Hol


l an d ai s e o r Dutch s auc e an d blend i t with pre
v i ousl y b ak ed , p ound ed an d sieved h azel nuts .

Fin i s h th e s auc e by whisking in a l i ttl e cre am .

E gg S auce ( S auce aux O euf s ) : T o a p i nt of


whit e s auc e ( B ch amel o r M elted B utt e r ) add
1 to 2 h ar d b o i led eggs ch opped up small
-
Se as on .

to t ast e with s alt an d p epp er an d serv e h ot .

E gg S a uc e ( S a uc e aux oeu f s dur s ) : B o i l an


e gg f or t e n m i nut e s, p lac e i t i n c o l d w at e r
T HE BOOK or S AUCE S 73

an d remove th e sh ell S eparate th e yolk fro m


.

th e w hi te an d chop e a ch n ely M i x wi th h alf .

a pint of white s auc e or bch amel , previously


h eated, se ason to t as te, h e at u p .

Oni o n S auce ( S auce a ux O i gno ns ) : 2 on i on s ,

1 oz butter ,
. o z our,
. pint milk , nutmeg .

Peel th e onions , cut th e m in h alves an d blanch


them , dr ai n an d c ook in s alt e d water till tend e r ,

dr ai n again an d chop nely M elt th e butter i n .

a saucepan , st i r in th e our, co ok a littl e an d add


gradually th e mi lk ; st i r till it boils an d put in
th e ch opped oni ons , s e aso n with pepp e r an d a
grate of nutmeg , an d co ok for 1 0 m i nut e s longe r .

N O T E : When brown onion s auce i s requir e d ,


m i n c e th e onions and fry a light brown color i n
butter, drain o th e butter and add half a p int of
brown s auce , c ook for 1 5 m i nutes .

O ni o n S a uc e ( N o T ak e s o m e wh i t e s auc e
.

in whic h a due propo rtion of n ely ch opped


boiled on i ons h ave be en c ooked ; se as on with s alt ,
nutm e g an d pepp e r S erv e d w i th bo i l e d r abb i t
.

or b oile d or baked mu t ton .

For brown oni on sauce , th e onions ar e rs t


fr i e d in butter an d th e n c ook e d i n D e mi gl ace -

o r P oivrade s auc e .

O li v e S auc e : M ak e a go od brown sauc e , m ix


i t with st oned or turn ed French o li ves se as on t o ,

t as te an d avor w i th a little lemon j uic e S erv e .

h ot.

O r ange S auc e ( S auc e a l or ange ) : 2 p ee l e d


.

sh allots , 1 o range , lemon juic e , 2 ozs raw ham ,


-
.

cayenne to tas te , 2 glasses p ort win e , an d 1 gi ll


of me at gravy .

C h op th e shallots an d put th em i nto a sm al l


st ewp an with th e rind of th e orange quite fre e ,

from the white or pith , and a little chopped le an


of raw h am an d c ayenne p epper ; m oisten wi th
th e p ort win e , and a little meat gravy ; se t th e
essenc e to s i mm er gently on the re for ab out
t e n m i nutes , then add the juice of th e or a ng e
wi th a little lemon juic e , and p as s i t through a
-

S ilk S i ev e
.

O r an g e S auc e ( N o ( Fo r wi ld d uck w il d
.
,

fowl , widgeon teal etc ) M i x half a gill of rich


, ,
.

brown sauc e with a gill of me at gravy , to th is


74 T HE B OO K or SA UCE S
ad d th e strained juic e of an orange , an d b oil up ;
skim , and se as on with sal t an d peppe r S hred .

n ely th e r i n d of h al f an orange, an d put i t i nt o


th e s auc e, b o i l up agai n , and serv e
N O T E : If liked, a sm all , nely ch opped S h al
lot an d h al f a glas s of port win e or claret c an
b e adde d and c o ok e d wi th th e abov e s auc e .

T hi s i s c ons i dere d an i m p rovement .

J us d O r an ge S auce :

p i nt E sp agn o l e s auce ,
pint go o d stock o r gravy , 1 orange , lemon
ju i ce , an d 1 teaspo onful red currant j e l ly -
.

P e e l th e orange thinly, an d cut th e p eel int o


Juli e nn e strips , p ut th em i n a st ewp an w i th
s u fci e nt wat er to c ov e r, b oil for ve m i nutes ,

an d dr ai n on a S ieve Put i n a stewp an , the


.

E spagnol e s auce , stock or r oast me at gravy , and


h al f th e ju i c e of th e orange A llow al l to reduc e .

t o h al f its quantity, strain , and ad d th e or ang e


p e e l, a te aspo onful of l e mon j ui c e , th e r e d cur - -

r ant j e lly, se as on wi th p epp er an d sal t , boil up


agai n , an d serv e w ith roast wil d duck, wi ld b e ar
o r oth e r gam e .

S o rr el S auc e ( O s eill e S auce ) : P r ep ar e a t hi n


g ravy s auc e o r us e D emi glac e s auc e ; t o w hi ch
-

add n ely ch oppe d an d blanch e d sorrel le aves .

T hi s s auc e i s usually s e rve d wi th br ai se d o r


b o i le d f owls , e tc .

O y s t e r S auce ( S auce a ux H ui tr e s ) R e qu i r e d : :
1 2 oysters , 1 o z of butter , a te aspoonful of
.

l em on juice , 1 yol k o f egg, an d


-
of a p i nt o f
b ch amel s auce .

O p en th e oyster s , rem ov e th e b oar ds an d p ut


th em, wi th th e i r liquor, i n a small s auc e pan ,
w i th th e butter C over wi th th e li d, and c ook
.

fo r four minutes ( th ey must n ot b e al low e d to


b o i l ) Put th e oysters on a s i eve , c ut them i n
.

h alv e s or qu art e rs , all ow the li quid to r e duc e t o


h alf i ts origin al qu antity S train, return to th e
.

saucep an , add the b ch amel s auc e ; wh en h ot


bind wi th th e yolk of egg, th en put i n th e
oyst e rs an d lem on jui c e S tir t i ll quit e h ot , but
-
.

d o not l e t it boil S e as o n to t aste an d S e rv e


. .

O y s t e r S auc e ( S auc e aux Hui t r es) Reduc e :


h alf a pint of B ch amel s auc e with the strai ne d
li qu or of S ix sauc e oyst e rs B e ar d th e oyster s .
THE B OOK or SA UCES 75

and cut th em into q uarters , o r s m all er, i f liked ;


boil for a few sec onds only, th en season wi th a
few drops o f lemon j uice an d addition al s alt an d
-

pepper, if found necess ary .

O yster s auc e forms an excell e nt adjunct wi t h


boiled sh especi ally so wi th turb ot an d c od ,

als o wi th boiled po ul t ry, such as fowl or turkey .

P apr i k a S a uce : This c onsists of Velout e or


A llemande s auc e highly s eason ed with p aprik a ,
wh i ch is Re d H ungarian pepper .

Par i si en ne S au ce : T h i s i s a rich brown sau c e


'

avored with pr e v i ousl y bl e n de d ch opp e d S hal


l ots t o wh ic h add som e nely ch opped p arsley , a
l ittl e l e mon j ui c e and som e li queed m e at gl az e ,
th en nish by whisking in a little fresh butte r .

Se rve w i th e ntrec otes , ste aks o r ll e ts of be e f .

P ar sl e y S a uce ( S a uce P e rsil ) : Prepare h alf a


p int of B ch am e l or oth er white s auc e , to this
ad d 1 desse rtspo onful of nely ch oppe d an d
w as h ed parsley an d a few drops of l e m on j ui c e o
.

P e k oe S a uce : M i x 2 ounc e s of butt e r an d a


t e aspoonful of E nglish must ard into a p aste , th en
s eas on with s alt and pepper and a t ables p o onful
o f Worcestershire sauc e Put this into a st e w
.
s

p an and l et it gradu ally get h ot Th i s s auc e i s


.

e x ce ll e nt wi th re d mull e t .

P e rsi ll ade S auce : Prep are a V in ai gr e tt e s auc e


i n t h e usual m ann er wi th olive oil , vinegar, s alt ,
p e pp e r, lemon juice and mad e mustard then stir ,

i n som e nely ch oppe d parsley an d green savory


h erb s. Th i s sauc e is usually s erved c ol d wi t h
sh , v e g e tables , or as a s alad dress ing .

P ri gueux S auce ( Tr ufe S au ce ) : 1 gi ll b ro wn


s auc e, 1 gill tomato s auce , 1 glass sherry, 1
t e aspoonful anchovy essenc e, 1 o z butter , 3 .

trufes .

C hop nely three large t r ul e s, put th em i n a


S m all stewp an wi th th e sherry, reduc e t o one
h alf ( covered ) ; add th e brown and tomato s auc e :
boil for a few minutes nish wi th a t easpo onfu l
,

of an ch ovy essenc e an d the butter .

Pi m ent S auce : Tak e s ome D em i g l ac e s auc e


-

an d blen d it with tomato pur e , to which add


s om e nely ch oppe d pim ento or sweet p epper
and season sparingly wi th cayenne S erv e h ot . .
76 T HE B OOK or S AUCE S
Pi q u an t e S au c e ( S har p S au c e ) on i on or 4 :
sh all ots , 3 gh erkins ( chopped ) ,
1 tablespo o n ful
choppe d c apers , 1 gill vin egar , t easpo onful
anchovy essence , 1 bay le af, 1 sprig of thyme ,
-

9
an d 74 pint espagnol e sauce .

P e e l an d ch op th e on i on o r sh allots , put th e m
i n a stewp an with th e vinegar, b ay leaf, and -

thym e , cover, an d reduc e t o half th e q uantity


of l i quor . S train into an oth er stewp an , add
th e ch opp e d gh erkin s an d c ap ers , moisten w ith
th e s auc e, add th e an ch ovy ess e nc e , bo i l a f e w
m i nut es , an d s erv e .

Pi qu an t e S auc e ( A noth er M eth o d ) : C h op sep


ar a t el y four sh al lots , thre e pickled gh erkins , a

t ablesp o onful of pi c c al i ll y, and a dess ertspo on


f ul of French c ap ers Put i n a stewp an wi th a
.

b ay leaf, a S pri g of thym e, and a gi ll of French


-

wi n e v i negar ; c ov er th e stewp an and let reduc e


t o h al f the q uant i ty Remove th e h e rbs dilut e
.
,

w i th a pint of E spagnol e s auce , s e aso n wit h


p epper , b oil up an d skim .

P i q uan t e S auc e ( N o T ak e h al f a s m al l
.

o ni on o r 2 S hal lot s , 2 ch opp e d gh erkins , 1 t abl e


spoonful ch opp e d c ap ers , 1 gill vin egar , 1 bay

l eaf, 1 sprig of thyme , an d pint E spagn ole o r


b rown s auc e .

P eel and ch op nely th e on i on or sh al lots ,


p ut th e m i n a stewp an wi th th e vin egar , b ay
l e af , an d thym e , c over and reduce to h al f th e
q uantity of li quor S trai n i nto an oth er stewp an
. .

Pi qu ant e T ar tar e S auce Requ i r e d : 1 gi l l of


.

olive oil , 2 yolks of eggs , 1 tablesp oonful o f


gh erkins , 1 tablespo onful of French vinegar, 1
tablesp oonful of tarragon vinegar , 1 te a spo on
ful of mad e must ard, 1 te aspoonful of anch ovy
e ssence , s alt an d cayenne .

Put th e yolks of egg in a mix i ng bowl , p l ac e


this i f p ossible on i c e or in very c old water, n ext
add th e oil drop by drop , stirr i ng or whisking
always i n th e s am e direc tion , until th e e ggs b e
c ome thick , then ad d V i negar to t aste an d oth er
i ngredients . Th e gh erkins S hould b e ch oppe d
nely an d added s ep arat ely to th e anch ovy e s
s enc e ; all this must b e c arefully mixe d togeth er .

K eep i n a c ool plac e until needed .


T HE BOO K or S AUCES 77

P o i vr ade S au c e ( P e pp e r S a uc e ) : 64 pint of
E spagn ole s auce ,
oz of butter . small c ar ,

rot ,
small onion 1 8 p epperc orns 1 bay leaf
,
.
-

1 sprig thym e , 2 cloves and o z of raw h am


,
.

o r bacon .

M inc e th e onion and carrot cut th e h am or ,

bacon into small piec es ; fry th e above in the


butter for thre e minutes add th e pepp e rcorns ,

( crush ed ) h erbs ,
etc skim .o ,
th e fat moisten ,

wi th the sauce and b oil for t en minutes o r


,

l onger ; s k i m , se as on , stra in , an d serve a s


r e quir e d .

P o li s h S auc e ( P o l o n ai s e S au c e ) : T ak e p i nt
of Velout e s auc e and blend it wi th a li ttle sour
cream , s ome nely grat ed h orseradish , an d nely
ch opped fenn el and avor wi th lemon j ui c e
,
.

S e rve h ot .

P o mp a do ur S auc e : 2 oz b utt er pint v el .


,

o ut e or all em an de sauce , 1 sh allot , 6 preserv e d


mushroo m s , 2 yolks of eggs , gi ll c r e am 1 ,

te aspo onful ch op p e d p arsley, p e p p e r, s al t an d a


grat e of nutm e g .

Pee l an d ch op the sh al lot , an d minc e nel y


th e mushro oms B lend th e sh al lot i n an ounc e
.

of butter b ut d o n ot l e t i t t ake c olor ; put i n


,

th e mush rooms an d st i r over th e r e until all


moistur e i s ab s orb e d , then add th e sauc e stir ,

until i t b oils , sk i m well , an d l e t i t cook a fe w


m inut e s . B e at up th e yolk s of eggs wi th th e
cr e am and p ar sley , stir i nto th e sauc e an d se a
son with pepp e r s al t an d a little nutmeg ; n
,

ish wi th th e r e maining ounc e o f butter but d o ,

n o t let i t boil agai n K eep in th e ba i n mari e


.
-

until re qui red for s ervi n g .

P auvr e Ho mm e S auc e ( Poo r M an s Sauce ) :

Prepare a plain brown s auce t o whi ch add sui ,

c i ent tom at o ketchup an d an ch ovy sh essenc e


t o avor S u i tabl e as a sh sauc e to be s erved
.

ho t .

P o r t ug ai se S a uce : Re d uce ab out a p i nt of


t omato s auce with a gil l of rich ve al gravy ,
avor it with nely ch opped onion blanched an d ,

fri ed in butter, with a little crush ed garli c .

P oul e tte S a uce : M elt an oun c e of butter an d


s t i r i n 74 oun ce of our , co ok for a few minute s
9
78 T HE B OO K or SA UCE S
wi th out brown ing th e our , th en st i r i n 1 p i nt
of wh ite stock, stir till it boils, an d co ok for at
least 1 5 minutes , thicken with 2 yolks of eggs ,
s easo n with s alt and p epper, an d nish with h al f
an ounc e of fr e sh butter .

P ri n c e o f Wal e s S auce ( Pr ince d e G all es


S a u c e ) : This i s a c old s auc e prepared wi th
chopped yolks of h ard b oiled eggs and yolks of
-

raw eggs , olive oil tarragon vinegar , mixed with


,

n ely ch opped s avory h erbs and prep ared Fr e n ch


,

mustard It i s usu al ly s erve d with grille d or


.

fri e d sh , or gr i lled m eats a la T artar e .

P ri nce ss e S au c e ( Ho t S a u c e f or
F r i e d Chi ck en ,

1 % gill of B ch amel or velout e s auce ,


2 t ablespoonfuls French win e vinegar , 1 o z .

fresh butter, 1 l emon , 1 te asp oonful of grate d


h ors e radish , nutmeg, 8 p epp e r c orns an d p ars
- -

l ey .

Put th e grat e d r i nd of the l em on and th e h ors e


rad i sh in a small stewp an with th e French win e
v i negar, add a littl e grated nutmeg an d th e
c rush ed whit e pepp ercorns , b o i l for several min
utes , th en add th e B ch amel or velout e s auc e .

C ook for ten minutes , an d p ass through a n e


s i e ve or ta m my Re h e at, season wi th sal t an d
.
-

more pepp e r , if n eeded , work i n by m e an s of a


wh i sk th e butter an d a teaspo onful o f nely
choppe d p arsley, an d s e rve with any k i nd of
xture of p oultry , sh o r me at .

Pr o v en cal e S auce : Put two tab l espo onfu l s e ac h


of n e ly chopp ed preserved mushroo m s an d
p eel e d S h allots , two cloves of crush e d garlic , an d
a small bunch of sw e et s avory h erbs into a s auce
p an ,
an d p our o ver a gill of ol i v e oil ; se a s on
with s alt an d p epp er C o ok st e adily with th e li d
.

on , sh ak i ng or stirr i ng fre quently an d th e n add ,

1 pint o f brown sauce ( E spagnole ) an d a W i n e


glassful of white w i n e S immer for ab out h alf
.

an h our, th en t ake out th e bunch of herbs , and


s e rv e .

D emi P r o v en cal e S auce : T h i s i s pract i c al ly th e


-

s am e as th e above , omitting th e mushroo ms , sh al


l ot , h erbs an d wine , an d adding h alf a t easpoon
ful of c a stor s ugar S train th e s auc e befor e
.

servi ng .
T HE BOOK or SAUCE S 79

Ravi go te S au c e Chau d ( Ho t Ra vi g ot e S a u c e ) :
,

Take s om e h ot B ch amel s auc e , an d blen d it with


nely chopped , green , s avory h erbs , previ o usly
reduc e d w ith white wine vinegar th en nish th e ,

s auce with a li aison of butter and cream , se as on


t o tast e , and serv e .

Ravi g o t e S au c e Fr o i d ( Co l d Ra vi g o t e S auc e ) :
,

T ak e s ome M ayonnais e s auce , mix it with suf


ci e nt nely chopped parsley, chives , ch ervil tar ,

r agon , and peeled sh all ots th en stir in a littl e


,

spin ach greening to gi ve it the necess ary c olo r .

R f o r m e S auce ( for Cu tl et s a l a Re f o r m e ) :
1 gill poivrade s auce , 1 sm all glas s port wi ne ,
1 te aspoonful red currant j elly
-
.

This s auc e c onsists of p oivrad e sauc e mi xed


wi th p ort wi n e and red currant j elly B oil well
-
.

for ten mi nutes , an d str ai n Th e usu al Refo rm .

garnish , c onsisting o f Julienn e strips of gher


k i ns , mushrooms , trufes , h ard boiled white o f -

egg an d co oked ox tongue , is s erved at th e s ame


-

tim e .

Re g en c e S auce ( Re g en t S a uce ) : B l en d p i nt
of D emi glac e s auc e with
-
pint of thin gravy
s auc e , and reduc e both with a littl e white wi n e
an d t r ul e essenc e , th en avor with nely mince d
an d butter blende d on i ons .

R mo ul ad e S auce : p i nt s al a d o il , 2 t ab le
spo onfuls tarrago n v i negar , 1 teaspo onful m ade
must ard , tar r agon , p arsley, burn et , ch i ves , 1
yolk of egg c astor sugar
,
.

B lan ch a few le aves of tarragon p arsley, bur ,

n et , and ch i ves , dr ai n and ch op nely Put in .

a b asin th e yolk of egg with s alt and pepper to


t as t e , st i r well with a wood en spoon work in ,

gr adually h alf a pint of sal ad o i l and at inter ,

v al s a few drop s of tarragon vin egar A bout .

two t ablespoonfuls of vinegar i s r e quired to


h al f a p i nt of oil Wh en th e s auce i s nish ed
.

add a t easpo on ful o f m ad e mustard a pin ch of ,

c ast e r sugar, and th e chopped h erbs .

R m o ul ad e S au c e ( No B lanch a f e w l e aves
.

of tarragon , fennel , p arsley , burnet , and chives ;


drain th e h erbs , an d ch op th e m very nely Put .

in a b as i n th e yolk of an egg with salt and ,

pepper to t as te ; stir well with a wooden sp oon .


80 T HE B OO K or SA U CE S
Wo r k i n gradu al ly h alf a pint of s al a d oi l , an d
at intervals a few drops of tarragon vinegar .

Ab out two t ablesp oonfuls of vin egar ar e required


t o h alf a pint of oil When th e sauce is nish ed
.
,

ad d a te asp oonful of m ade mustard , a pinch o f


c a st e r sugar, and th e chopped h erbs .

Ri c ar do S a uce : Prepare a fum e t from th e


c arc as e of gam e , t o which add nely mince d
fried onions and toasted bread , an d blend with
rich brown s auce strain avor with sh erry, an d
, ,

n i sh with a littl e liqueed me at glaze .

Rich e S a uce : This is H oll an d aise e nrich ed


with lobster butter or sp awn to which s m all dic e ,

S hapes of tru fe and craysh tails are added just


b e fore s e rvin g .

Ri c h eli e u S au c e :
Th i s i s a r i ch brown gam e
s auc e , reduced with M adeira o r M arsala wine ,

th en work in a little liqueed me at extract an d


s ome nely ch opp ed trufes .

R o b e r t S au c e : small on i on , oz b utt e r .
,

teasp oonful c ast e r sugar, pint E spagn ol e


s auc e , gl a ss
~
w hi t e wine ,
an d saltsp oonful dry
mustard .

P eel an d m i nce th e onion , fry i t i n th e butter


a nut brown , add th e mustard m oisten w i th th e ,

w i n e , and reduc e a littl e S tir in th e E spagnol e


.

an d c ook for ten minutes ; se ason it to t aste ,

an d strain .

R o m an S au c e ( R o m ai ne S a u c e ) : T ak e a p i nt
of E spagnole s auce , h e at it up an d mix with a ,

sm all q uantity of e ach clean ed currants , sul,

t an a s and Italian pin e seeds , then reduc e with a


l i ttle white wi n e vinegar ; press all through a
S i eve , reh eat , s eas on an d s erve .

R o y al S au c e : Put an ounc e of butter i nto a


st ewp an , when m elte d stir into it a h eape d up
dess ertspo onful of our, add gradually pin t of
sh stock , stir till it boils , an d let simmer for
about 1 0 minutes S train , reheat , and add a
.

tablespo onful of cre am a teasp oonful of anch ovy


,

essence and a t ablespoonful of


,

Pan "a n

s auc e S eason t o taste reh eat with out b oiling,


.
,

and serve with b oiled turb ot or s almon .

R o uenn ai s s S au ce : 2 sh allots , b ay l e af ,
-
a
T HE BOOK or S AUCE S 81

sp ri g of thyme , 1 glass claret , 1 pint demi glac e -

sauce , and 2 or 3 ducks livers



.

Inf us e the nely chopped sh al l ots , bay le af, -

an d a sprig of thyme in th e gl as s of claret .

A dd the demi glac e s auce an d th e nely ch opp e d


-

ducks livers , and let reduc e , se as on t o t ast e ,


and strain .

R u ssi an S auce ( S au c e Ru ss e) : Chop nely 2


o z of lean h am , 4 peeled sh allots , and fry in but
.

t e r ( about oz ) fo r a few sec on ds , then add


.

a bay leaf, a sprig of thyme , an d a gl ass of


-

white wine ; c over, and l et reduc e to ab out h alf


th e quantity T o this add about a p i nt of vel
.

oute or allemande s auc e , an d allo w t o c ook


gently for ten minutes Remov e th e herbs , an d .

add a tablespoonful of nely grated h ors e r a d -

ish , S e as on with cayenn e and nutmeg and p as s ,

through a se i v e or t ammy cloth Re h eat stir .


-

i n a p at of fresh butter , an d a te aspoo nful of


li qui e d m e at glaze This s auce i s excellent
.

with grilled sh or llets of beef .

Co l d S al m o n S au c e :
T ake 4 ounc es of butter ,
on e t ablesp oonful of anch ovy ess ence two tabl e ,

spoonfuls of chilli vinegar, on e t ablesp oonful of


c old water , a grat e of nutmeg and a pinch of
s alt Put all i nto a mixing basin to warm and
.

stir or whisk till quite smooth then stir in t he ,

yolk of an e gg, mix well an d serve wh e n quit e ,

c old .

S al m i , or S al m y S auce :
Required : 1 te aspoon
ful red currant j elly ,
-
pint E sp agn ole s auce ,
1 gill of game stock c arcass of c o oked game , ,

2 shallots , 1 b ay le af , a sprig of thyme , some


-

mushroom trimmings , 1 glass port w i n e , 1 tabl e


spoonful sweet oil .

Peel and chop n ely th e sh allots , fry in oil a


golden c olor , add th e bay leaf, thym e an d mush -

room trimmi ngs , chop up th e c arc as s of game ,


and fry a little in fat or butter, drain and put ,

with th e ab ove prep aration add th e port wine , ,

c over th e st ewp an and c ook the m for ve min


,

utes M oisten with th e stock and sauce S tir


. .

well and let simmer for t en minutes S kim well .


,

s train or tammy seas on t o taste add th e red


, ,

c urr an t j elly , he at up and s erve .


82 T HE B OO K or S AUCE S
Reduc e s ome D emi glace s auc e
S e vill e S au ce : -

with strained orange juic e and add the nely


ch opp e d rind of a S eville orange This s auc e is .

usually served with ro ast or braise d ducks or


game .

S harp S au c e : Pee l and ch op a small on i on .

H eat up i n a s aucepan 2 tablespoonfuls of salad


oil an d fry i n i t th e on i on to a golden color ,
th en ad d an ounc e of our an d let brown nicely ;
n ext put i n 1 t easp oonful of crush e d pepp er
c orns , 3 preserve d mushroom s an d a tomat o
( cut up S mall ); add gradually a pint of stock ,

an d stir until th e mixture boils , then add 2


t ables p o onful s of v i negar and a few savory
h erbs S immer at l east 1 5 minutes longer, th en
.

strain ; r e h eat , S kim, s eason t o taste with salt


-

an d p epper, i ncluding a t i ny p i nch of cayenne ,


an d s erv e h ot .

S hr i mp S auc e ( S au c e a ux c r e v e t t e s ) : p i nt

whit e sh s auc e , 74 pint picke d shrimps , vinegar ,
1

1 t e aspoonful an ch ovy e ssenc e, 1 small blad e of


mac e , 1 bay leaf -
.

B oil th e S h ells and h e ads of th e S hrimps i n


e nough vin egar to cover ; t o this ad d a smal l
blade of mac e and a b ay leaf S train th e liquo r-
.

i nt o th e s auc e , add th e picke d S hrimps , and boil


up . Finish with a t easpoonful of an ch ovy e s
s enc e , an d serve with boiled or grille d sh .

S hri mp S auc e ( N o T ak e 1 pint of m i lk ,


.

1 % ozs of butt er , 1 o z our,


. pint of S hrimps
. .

P i ck th e shr i mps , an d put th e skins i nt o th e


milk , al low this t o b oil , and th en strai n M elt .

th e butter, stir i n th e our, c o ok a littl e and add


th e milk gradu ally ; keep stirr i ng till i t boils an d
co ok fo r t en minutes A dd th e shrimps just
.

b e for e serving, and i f l i ke d a f e w dr Ops of


e ss e nc e of an ch ovy .

S i c ili enne S auce : Reduc e some E sp agn ol e


s auc e with M ars al a or S herry, s eason sparingly
wi th c ayenn e p epper ; add s ome thinly cut rings
of on i ons frie d in butter just b efore s erving .

S o ub i s e S auce : 2 onions , 1 gi ll white stock ,


pint B cham el s auc e , whit e p epper, s alt , a pinch
sugar .

Pe el th e on i ons , p arbo i l i n s alted wat e r, str ai n ,


T HE BOO K or SA UCE S 83

drain , an d chop very nely Return t o th e stew .

p an , and stir over th e re until all moisture


is absorbed , th en ad d th e stock an d c ook till
tend er Now add the s auce and reduce to th e
.

desire d consistency, s e as on wi th pepper , s alt ,


and a pinch of c ast e r sugar .

S o ub i se S auce N o 3 : Peel , S lice an d blanch


.

3 onions , then c ook th em in half a pint of mi l k ,

half an ounc e of butter, a little pepper an d s alt ,


a bunch of h erbs , thyme , parsley and bayleaf,
and h alf a pint of wine sauce B oil S l owly fo r .

about 2 0 minut es , th en re m ove th e herbs , an d


pass th e on i ons an d sauc e through a n e s i eve .

Rehe at th e sauc e in a bain m arie and stir i n -

two tablespoonfuls of cre a m just b e for e servi ng .

S o ub i s e To mat o S auce : P ee l an d slice a l ar ge


S panish onion , and co ok it i n white stock or s e a

son e d wate r unt i l tender an d th e liqu i d h as ,

n e arly evaporated , then r ub all through a n e


sieve A dd on e h alf th e qu antity of h ot cre am
.
-
,

and an e qual qu ant i ty of h ot tom ato sauc e ; se a


son w i th salt and p epper to t aste Reh e at th e .

sauc e , but do not let it bo i l ag ai n .

S o y e r S auce : P repar e a wh i te sh s auc e or



B chamel M aigre , an d avor it wi th nely
chopped s avory herbs butter blended sh allots and
,

lemon ju i ce Finish th e sauc e with a l i ai son o f


.

egg yolks and cream .

S p adaci n i S auce Re qu i r e d : 1 g il l wh i te wi n e ,

gill vinegar 2 sh allots a few sprigs of pars


, ,

l e y 2 spr i gs of b as i l 1 teasp oonful crush ed mig


, ,

nonette pepper, 1 tablespoonful wh ite sauc e


B ch amel or alleman de 1 tablespoonful to m at o ,

sauc e , 1 sm al l te r r i n e foie gras ( about 3 o z ) -


.

free d from fat 1 yolk of egg, 1 o z butter , and


,
.

2 pinch es o f cayenne .

Put th e wi n e , vinegar sh allot ( ch oppe d n e ly )


,

herbs an d peppercorns in a stewp an , c over and


, ,

reduc e t o one h alf of i ts or i ginal quantity A dd .

th e two k i nds of s auces b oil up an d p as s , ,

through th e tammy Pound th e foie gras in a


.
-

m ortar add th e yolk of egg and th e butter Rub


, .

th i s through a sieve and i ncorporate in small ,

quantities with th e sauce


,
Whisk th e s auc e .

e n bain m arie whilst this is being don e S e as on


-
.
84 T HE BOOK or S AUCE S
wi th a pinch of c ayenn e and use as directed The
,
.

s auce must not be al lowed to boil , an d when


nish ed S h oul d b e similar in consistency to
B arnaise .

S t r agot t e S a u c e :
This i s a rich brown gam e
s auc e w i th th e addition of tomato pulp and
m ade i ra wi n e , avore d with c elery pur e an d
p arsley roots , S h allots , cloves an d mace Th i s .

sauc e is gen erally s erved with Italian dish es .

S up r e m e S au ce : oz butt er, 1 oz our , 1 p i nt


1 . .

ch i cken stock , 1 sm all onion 1 clove , b ay ,

l eaf, 3 oz fresh b utt er, 1 tablespo onful cream,


.

1 yol k of egg, lemon .

M ak e a white roux with th e butt er an d our ,


an d dilut e w i th th e chicken stock B oil up , ad d .

th e on i on , clov e , hal f b ay l eaf, an d l et i t simmer


-

for fteen m i nutes S k i m well, an d work i n


.

th e butter, cre am , yolk of e gg, an d th e juic e


o f h alf a l emon Wh i s k w e ll , an d p ass through
.

a t ammy c l o th .

S u pr e m e S auc e ( No
P ut an ounce of
.

butter in a stewp an ; when melt e d, s t i r i n an


o unc e of our ; allo w it t o c o ok a l i ttle A dd .

gradually a p i nt of well s e as oned ch i cken stock ,


s tir until i t b oils an d allow to si mm er for fteen
,

m i nut es T ak e off th e s cum , a d d a gill of cre am ,


.

a t e asp oonful o f l e mon juic e , a pin ch of s alt ,


an d a pin ch of gr ated nutmeg P as s through a .

t ammy cloth or napkin return t o a clean st e w ,

p an , and n i sh wi th h alf an ounc e of fresh but


t e r an d a littl e c hicken essenc e or ve al gl az e .

S w e di sh S auce ( S auce S ue doi se Ho t ) : M ak e


a B ch amel o r othe r white s auce , avor i t
Wi th grated hors e radish and ch i lli V inegar ,
-

an d serve with roast p oultry or grille d meats .

S wedi sh S auce ( Col d) : 1 gill mayonnais e ,


1
% gill cream , 1 te aspo onful of French mustard ,
an d 2 tablesp oonfuls nely grated h or s e radish -
.

Wh i p th e cream , stir in gradually th e m ay


on n ai se , gr ate d h orse ra d ish , and mustard ; add
-

a p i n ch of c a st e r sugar, an d a littl e s alt if


n eeded .

This s auc e i s esp ec i ally su i tabl e for sal ad s


an d serve d wi th roast game , etc .
T HE BOOK or S AUCES 85

T ar tar e S auce : 2 yolks of eggs c ayenn e mus , ,

tard 1 pint sal a d oil 1% gill t arragon vineg a r ,


, ,

B ch amel or velout e s auce 2 t abl e spo on q ,

ch opped gherkins 1 t ablespoonful of ch opped


,

c apers , 1 tablespoo nful of ch opped p arsley ,

t easpoonful of m ixed tarragon and ch ervil n ely


chopped .

Put th e yolks of eggs in a b as in pl ac e i t i n ,

a sh allow pan c ontaining s om e crush ed ice ad d ,

a te as p oonful o f s alt , a go od pin ch of w hit e


p ep p e r a p i nch of c ayenn e and a te aspo onful
, ,

of mustard ; stir w e ll to geth er an d add gradu , ,

al ly , th e salad o i l and t arragon vin e gar Wh e n .

the s auc e is sm ooth an d cre amy stir i n a go od


t ab l espo onful of c old B c h amel or velout e s auc e ,

a dd th e gh e rkins , c apers p arsley ,


tarragon , an d ,

ch e rv il D o not mix th e gh erkins capers , etc


.
,
.
,

until th e s auc e i s n ished , as it is l i kely to c aus e


th e sauc e to turn i f put in to o so on A few .

drops of lemon juice m ay b e add e d if th e sauc e


i s found to o th i ck .

Texas S auce ( S auce Texi en n e )


P repar e a :

c urry s auc e , mix it with a ve ry littl e s aff ron an d

n ely ch opped p arsl ey avor wi th lemo n j ui c e


, ,

an d nish with a liai son of fr e sh butter an d

c r e am .

T o mat o S a uce ( S auc e Tom ato) :


p i nt sto ck , 1%
1 oz stre aky b acon , 1 oz butt e r 1 small onio n
. .
,

n ely ch opped , 1 lb t omatoes 1 o z our, p epper


.
,
.

corns , h erbs , p arsley , 1 o z fr e sh butter, c astor


.

s ugar .

Put i nto a st e wp an th e b utter an d on i on , fry


3 l i ttle , and add th e tomatoes cut into s li ces .

S tir over th e r e a little longer , th en add th e


our previously mixed wi th a little c old stock
o r gr avy S tir th e stock in gradually, add a
.

f e w pepp e rcorns , a few sprigs of s avory h erb s


and p arsley , and allow all to simmer for h alf an
h our Remove th e herbs , rub th e s auc e through
.

a sieve , return t o th e stewpan , season w ith s alt ,

a pinch of c asto r sugar and pepp er whisk th e ,

butt e r , an d serve as required A tablespoonful .

of cre am c an be used i nstead of butter but th e ,

s auc e sh ould n ot b e all owed t o boil again aft er


the butter or cream has been added .
86 T HE BOOK or SA UCE S
To m at o S au c e ( No C ut h al f a p oun d of
.

ripe tomatoes into slices, al s o half a small p eele d


onion , and c ook th e m for about 2 0 minutes wi th
a t eas p o onful of castor sugar, a few p epp e rc orns ,
h alf a bayle af an d h alf a teasp oonful of s al t .

Rub through a sieve or strainer, and add a p i nt


of brown stock Fry i n an oun c e of butter %
.
9

ounc e of our, an d stir until well browne d th en ,

p our in gradually whilst stirring th e h ot tomato ,

l i quid B oil up S kim an d l et simm e r for about


.
, ,

1 5 mi nutes , th en serve .

T o m at o Cr e a m S auce ( S au c e Cr e m e a l a To
m at e ) : 2 oz butter, 1 large tomato , 1 b ay l eaf ,
.
-

6 p epperc orns .

C ut up th e t omat o put i n a stewp an add t he, ,

b ay le af, s alt , an d p epp e rcorns , reduc e to h al f


-
;

ad d a p i ec e o f butter, an d wh en drawn p ass


th rough a tammy Return t o a small stewp an , .

an d work in remainder of th e butter D o n ot .

p ut n e ar t oo hot a plac e o r els e it will go o i ly .


.

To r t ue S auce ( T ur tl e S auce ) : P repare a r i c h


brown sauce, usin g turtle sto ck as a bas i s and ,

b l e nd wi th nely ch oppe d sh all ots a littl e ,

an ch ovy paste or ess enc e lemon j uic e an d sh e rry , ,

r e duc e and add nely ch oppe d or grate d lem on


r i nd , s e as on w i th v e ry little c ayenn e p epper an d ,

s e rv e .

Val en ti ne S auce : T h i s s auc e i s prep ar e d i n


th e s am e way as S u d ois e S auc e adding a t ea ,

sp oonful of tarr agon vin egar an d substituting


th e French mustard w i th h alf th at q uantity of
E nglish mustard .

V al oi se S a uce : Ch op n el y 3 to 4 p e el e d
sh all ots an d reduce with a gl ass of whit e wi n e ,
,

th e n add s om e me at extract or l iqueed me at


glaz e, work in 2 oun ces of fr e sh butter 3 t o 4 ,

egg yo l ks and last of all a li ais on of cr e am


, .

S eas on wi th s alt and p epper t o taste an d ad d ,

s o me nely ch opped p arsley, als o ab out a tabl e "

sp oonful of Worc estershire sauce Wh i sk i n a .

b a i nmar i e p an until qu i t e warm th en serve , .

V e l o ut e S au c e ( V e l v e t S auce ) : 1 oz our, .

2 o z butter 1 pint of ve al stock


.
,
gill mush ,

room liquo r gill of cre am 1 sm all bouquet


, ,

garni , 6 peppe r corns, s alt, nutmeg lemon juic e , .


T HE BOOK or S AUCE S 87

C o ok the our wi th an ounc e of butter t o


gether wi th out bro w ning stir in th e stock and ,

mushroom liquo r add th e bouquet an d crush e d


,

pepperc orns b o il slowly for twenty minutes stir


, ,

fre quently an d ski m P as s through a sieve or


,
.

tammy keep on the s i de o f th e stove , put a f e w


ti ny piec e s of butter on t Op to ke e p fro m for m
ing a ski n Just b efore using it ad d th e cream
. .

S tir well and l e t it get th oroughly hot without


bo ili ng s e as on wi th s al t if n ecessary, a pinch
,

of nutmeg, and about a te aspo onful of lemon


jui ce Th e sauc e is n ow r e ady for us e an d wi ll
.
,

s erv e as a found ation for any white sauce o r


as a velout e by itself Th e crea m m ay b e .

om i tted if used as a found at i on s auce .

V eni so n S auc e : P ut i nto a saucepan h alf a


p i nt of go od brown s auce a dessertspo onful of ,

red currant j elly, h alf a gl ass of p ort wine and


th e j uic e of half a lemon B oil up an d s e as on .

wi th s alt an d pepper Next add a d e ss ert sp oon .

ful of meat glaz e , boil up again th e n skim , ,

s train an d serve .

V ni t i enne S auce : p i nt al lemand e o r R


ch amel s auc e , 1 oz lobster butter 1 dessert .
,

spoonful meat gl aze the juic e of half a l emon , ,

pepper nutmeg an d salt , 1 teasp oonful n e ly


, ,

ch oppe d t ar ragon leaves .

H eat up th e sauc e stir i n th e l obst er butter


,

an d me at gl az e wh en required for serving ad d ,

lemon juic e su ffi c i ent pepper grate d nutmeg


, , ,

and salt to t as te , and last of all th e chopped , ,

tarragon .

V e r t Pr Sa uce ( Gr een H er b S auc e ) : 2 sh all ots ,


-

3 o z butter, 2 l ar ge t ablespo onfuls white win e


.
-

vi n egar ,
pint velout e ( se e ab ove ) o r alle
m and e s auce a sm al l h an dful spinach 6 spri gs
, ,

of parsley 2 to 3 spr i gs chives 3 sprigs tarra


, ,

gon very little cherv i l salt an d pepp er


, , .

P e el an d chop nely th e sh allots put th e m in ,

a st ewp an with th e vinegar and 1 o z of butter .


,

c over wi th th e lid of th e stewpan and allow t o ,

r e duc e t o ab out h alf i ts origin al qu anti ty Now .

add th e whit e s auce ( velout e for preference )


an d let S imm er for a few minutes Wash pick .
, ,

an d blanch ( parboil ) th e S pin ach an d remainder


88 T HE BOO K O F S AUCE S
of h erbs ; drain and co ol , press out all th e water ,
and p ound i n a mort ar with about 1 o z of but .

ter Rub this through a ne sieve , an d mix it


.

w i th th e sauce a s ab ov e prepare d Whisk in .

the remain der of th e butter , s e ason to tast e , and


s e rve .

V e r t e gl a c e S a u c e ( I ce d Gr een S au c e ) : 1 me
di um sized cucumber, a f e w S prigs ch ervil and
-

t arragon ( blanch ed ) , S pin ach gre ening 1 dessert ,

sp oonful O rl an s vinegar , 1 gill asp i c , 1 gi l l


cre am , 1 % gill mayonn aise , a pinch of c astor
s ugar s al t an d p epper t o t aste
,
.

P e el thinly th e cucumb er, cut i t i n h alf , r e


move th e see d p ortion , th en slice , an d c o ok in
slightly s alted water till tender S train off th e .

water an d rub th e cucumb e r through a n e s i eve .

ChOp nely th e h erbs , an d add this an d th e vin e


gar, with a littl e spin ach gr e ening to th e cu ,

cumb er pur e Whisk th e c re am a little , an d stir


.

i n th e above wh en sui c i e n t l y c ool I nc orporat e .

by degre es th e mayonnais e and th e as pic j elly


( previously diss olved , but n ot h ot ) S tir ov e r .

th e i c e with a whisk for a f e w minutes se a s on ,

t o t aste , and ll up an oblong biscuit tin ; s e al -

i t w i th pap er and lid an d plac e i t in a ch arge d


,

i c e c ave for 1 % h our


-
To s erve , un mold as
.

usu al , cut th e sh ap e i nto n eat slices o r cub es,


an d s erve with g r i lled s h or me at etc , .

V i ll er oi S a uce : P rep are a B ch amel o r oth er


r i ch white s auc e , and mix it with nely ch oppe d
c o oke d ham or tongue o r b oth and nish with a
,

liaison of yolks of eggs an d fresh butter or


cre am .

V i n B l an e S a u c e ( Whi t e Wi ne S a u c e ) : p i nt
w hite stock , gill ch ablis or s autern e , 94 o z .

our, 2 oz butter, 2 yolks of eggs


. lemon , ,

salt , whit e pepper , s om e sh liquo r i f th e s auc e

b e used for sh .

M elt 1 o z butter , stir i n th e our, co ok a little ,


.

dilute with s easoned sto ck, sh liquor, and win e ;


b oil up an d c ook for fteen minutes A dd gr adu .

al ly th e rem ainder of th e butter bit by bit al s o ,

th e yolks of egg on e at a time s e ason with a


, ,

l i ttle salt , a pin ch of mign onette o r whit e pepp e r,


an d add a f e w drops of lemon juice S trai n .
THE B OO K or S AUCES 89

t hr ough a t ammy cloth and us e as s auc e f or


,

dres sed sh , etc . M ostly served wi t h s ol e s ,


sal m on , trout , an d whitin g .

Whi t e Wi ne S a uce ( S a uce au V i n blanc ) : P ut


2 ounces of butter into a saucep an with a littl e
parsley, a small peeled , slic ed and bl anch ed oni on ,
one or two preserv e d mushro oms ( champi gnons ) ,
p re vi ously tossed in a l ittl e lemon juic e all ,

n ely minced ; tos s th em i n a stewp an w e ll ove r


th e re , but do not let the m get brown add an ,

ounc e of our , add a pint o f stock an d a gl as s of


c h ablis or sauterne ; se asom w i t h salt , p epper and

mac e ; boil up , skim an d S i mm er gently for about


h al f an h our, s k i m , strain and serve .

Vin ai gr e tt e S auce : 3 t ablespo onfu l s tarragon


vinegar , 1 te as p oonful m ade mustard , oli ve oil ,
1 t e a sp on ful ch opp e d gh erkins , 1 t e aspo onful
ch opped c ap ers , te aspo onful c h opped p ar sl e y,
teasp oonful ch opped sh all ots .

M i x in a basin th e t arragon v i n egar , must ar d


( Fr e nch o r E nglish ), and te aspoonfu l of s alt .

To this add 6 or 8 t ablespo onfuls of b est oliv e


oil , the parsley shallots , gherkins a n d c aper s
, .

M i x well b efore s e rving .

Vi ct ori a S auc e ( for Fish ) : lb fr e s h butt er


.
,

4 yolks of eggs 1 t easp o onful t arr agon vinegar 1


, ,

t ablespo onful lemon juic e 1 t easp oonful chill i


,

vi negar , g i ll sh stock ,
o z lobster butt
. e r ,

p e pp er , s alt, an d nutmeg .

Cut th e butter i nt o small s q uares , put h al f


th e qu antity i n a stewpan , plac e th e stewp an i n
a vess el or l arg e stewp an c ont aining b oilin g
w at e r S tir i n the yolks of eggs by m e an s of
.

a wh i sk , ad d l emon jui ce , tarragon an d chil l i ,

v in egar, also th e stock reduc ed t o half its q uan


tity S eas on w i th p epper, salt, an d a p i nch of
.

g rated nutmeg . Finish by whisking i n th e r e


m ai n de r of th e pieces of fr e s h an d th e lobst e r

b utter Th e water i n whi ch th e stewp an i s


.

place d sho uld b e kept at boil i ng point duri n g


the proc ess , but on n o acc ount must th e s auc e be
al l owed to boil .

War gr av e S auc e : M i x o r blend with a p i nt o f


D emi gl az e or oth er r ich brown s auc e a d esse rt
-

sp o onful of re d curr an t j elly, a tablespo onful


90 T HE B OO K OF S A UCE S
each Worcest e r sh i r e sauce , m ushroo m k etch up ,
of

an d tomato p ur e When well m i xe d st i r i n


.

abo ut a tabl e spoonful each of th e f ollowi ng :


p i c k l e d gh e r ki ns , pres erv e d m ushr ooms c oo k ed ,

h am an d t ongue all c ut i nto ve r y ne J ul i enn e


,

st r ips or th i n sh r eds .

Wate r c r e ss S auc e ( S auce Rui sse au ) : b un c h


watercress , 1742 t abl e spoonful c ap e rs 1 % oz of ,
.

b utter, 1 gi ll ch i c k e n sto c k , p i nt velo ut e


s auce or all emande, 1 h ard b oi led e gg, s e as on i n g -
.

Wash , p i c k , and blanch the cr e s se s, p ut th e m


i n th e m ortar w i th th e e gg c ap e rs an d b utt e r , , ,

p o un d un t i l ne an d r ub thro ugh a s i eve Put


,
.

th e sauc e an d sto c k i n a stewpan , let i t bo i l up


t og e ther, s ki m , an d red uce a l i ttle Wh i s k i n .
,

by degrees the gr e en p ure ,


S eason t o taste .

w i th peppe r an d salt strai n thr ough a tammy ,

cloth r et urn t o th e st e wpan , an d k eep hot i n a


,

bai n m ar i e unt i l r e qui red f or s erv i ng D o n o t


-
.

allow the s auc e t o bo i l agai n aft e r i t h as been


strai n e d , or els e i t wi ll b ecome o i ly .

Whi t e S auc e ( S auce blan che ) : D i ssolv e an


o unc e of b utt e r i n a sauc e pan , add on e o unc e
of o ur ; st i r over th e r e f or a few m i n utes ,

j ust long en ough to c oo k the o ur , wi th out all ow


i ng t o brown S t i r i n a p i nt of b oi l i ng m i l k ;
.

add a small on i on st uc k w i th a clove ten wh i te ,

p e p perc orns, h alf a bay leaf, a sl i c e d c arrot a -

p i nch of s alt , an d a l i ttle grated n utm e g S t i r .

unt i l i t b oi ls , an d all ow t o s i mm er f or ab out


fteen m i n utes P ass thro ugh a s i eve or tammy
.

cl oth o r e lse a ne strai ner , an d r et urn t o th e


ste w pan Lastly st i r i n w i th a small p i e c e of
.

fr e sh b utt er, and half a t e asp oonf ul of lem on


j ui ce .

Whi te S au ce ( S i m ple ) : 1 o z b utte r , 1 oz . .

o ur, 174; p i nt m i l k, gi ll wh i t e st oc k or wat e r ,

b ay le af, s alt and wh i t e peppe r


-
.

M e lt th e b utter i n a sm all s aucepan , st i r i n


th e o ur , an d co ok fo r a f e w m i n ut e s wi tho ut
all owi ng the o ur t o br own ; d i l ut e w i th th e
m ilk st i r t i ll i t b oil s then add the stoc k an d
, ,

bay leaf and let si mm e r f or at l e a st ten m i n


-

ut e s Remove the bav l e a f season to taste, and


.
-
.

strai n .
T HE B OO K on SA UCE S 91

Whi te Fi s h S auc e : 1 oz b utt e r 17$ oz o ur, .


,
.

1 gi ll m i lk , 2 tablesp oonf uls cre am 1 sm all p i ec e ,

o f mac e bay le af, 7$ t e aspoonf ul lemon j ui c e ,


,
1 -

s alt an d pepp e r b on es an d tr i mm i n gs of sh
,
.

B o i l th e m i l k wi th some sh b on e s, b ay l e af , - o

an d a t in y p i ece of mac e , tog e ther wi th l gi ll


of water M elt th e b utter i n a ste w p an , add th e
.

o ur and st i r a few moments over th e re wi th


,

out all ow i ng the our t o t ak e c ol or S t i r abo ut .

a gi ll of m i l k as above prepared i nto thi s , allow


i t t o come t o th e bo i l wh i l st st i rr i ng an d l et ,

s i mmer f or t en m i n utes ; t ak e out the bay l e af ,


-

an d mac e an d str ai n , h eat up agai n add th e ,

c re am l e mon j ui ce , an d seas on i ng, and use as


,

d i rect e d .

"avi er S au c e b unch wat e r


( Fi sh S auce ) :

cress , a few spr i gs o f nn l , % p i nt m i l k sh


f e e 1
,
.

bones , es se nc e of sh f or w h i ch th e s auc e i s
prepar ed , 1 % oz b utte r, oz o ur , se ason i ng,
. .

lem on j ui ce .

Remove th e stal k s fro m th e cress a n d f e nnel ,

p u t th e leaves i n a stewpan w i th the m i l k and

sh bones , prev i ously c ut i nt o small p i e ces ( add


-

a t i ny p i ec e of soda ) , bo i l unt i l t he leav e s ar e


d on e S tra i n and let c ool , put th e c oo k e d herbs
.

i n a m ortar , and po und w i th half th e b utte r ,

then r ub th r o ugh a s i eve Co ok th e o ur i n .

th e r em a i nde r of the b utt e r wi tho ut taki n g ,

c olor , d i l ut e w i th th e m i l k i n wh i ch th e cre ss ,

etc , h av e b oi led
. S t i r unt i l i t b oi ls ad d th e
.
,

sh essence , an d let the wh ole si mmer fo r t en


m i nutes S trai n r e t urn to the st e wpan bo i l up,
.
, ,

add the gre e n p ure , and c oo k a f e w m i n utes


longer S eas on wi th a few drops o f l e mo n j ui c e
.
,

p epp e r an d salt add a l i ttle cr e am or stoc k i f


, ,

f oun d t oo thi c k, an d k e ep i n th e ba i n mar i e un t i l -

r e qui red .

"o r k shi r e S auc e ( S au c e "o rk ) : H eat up som e


E p agn ol e s auc e th e n add n e ly shr e dded or
s ,

grat e d orang e r i nd r e d c urran t j e lly p ort wi n e , , ,

orange j ui c e and a l i ttle gro un d c i nn am on ( c are


,

ful blend i ng of th e se i ngr e d i e nts i s e sse nt i al ) ,

r ed uc e w e ll an d se as on t o ta st e w i th salt an d
p e pp e r T he s auce i s served w i th bo i l e d ham or
.

pi c k le d por k .
92 T HE B OO K OF SA UCE S
Z i n ga r a S auce : Red uce half a gi ll port wi n e

w i th a gi ll t om ato pur ee, add a g i ll S alm i
s auce an d r e d uce w i th h alf a gi ll of ri ch
,

st oc k ; then strai n on to a stewpan , cont ai n i ng


n el y sh r e dd e d ham, t ongue, m ushro oms an d
-

tr ufe s , abo ut 1 d essert spo onf ul of each and ,

a few v e ry n e shr e ds of orange r i nd B o i l up .

fo r abo ut v e m i n ut e s and s erve .

S A L A D S A U CE S .

M ay o n n ai se : O f all th e cold s auces us ed e i the r


w i th m e at or sh or t o s eas on salads the be st
k nown the m ost p op ul ar and th e m o st agr e e abl e
, ,

t o th e pal ate i s w i th out d oubt M ay onn ai se .

S pan i sh sauc e i s the f undamental ty p e of br own


s auce s ; v e l out i s t he prototyp e Of wh i t e sauc e s ,

an d M ay onna i s e i s th e s auc e fr om wh i ch th e c old


s auc e s ar e d er i v e d P h i lea s G i lbert i n on e of h i s
.


chr on i cl e s says : M ayonnai s e i s th e plan e t
aro un d wh i ch n um e r ous sat e ll it es gr avi tate , th e
h i ghway from wh i ch many p ath s r un Off Th e .

i ngred i e nt s wh i ch ent e r i nto t he c omp os i t i on O f


M ay onna i se prop e rly so c alled a r e f e w i n n um b e r
-

eas i ly m an i p ulat e d and s ucc e ssf ul pr e parat i on i s


,

s i mpl e en ough i f c e rt ain cond i t i ons a r e O b se rv e d ,

othe rw i se the r e s u l t i s d i sastr ous T h e rst of .

the se r ules i s t o use r st cla ss i ngr e d i ents , espe -

c i al l y the O i l wh i ch i s t he s o ul of the s auc e


, .

T he v i negar al so m ust be the b e st p oss i ble and ,

a g ood brand O f m ustard ch os e n A s fo r th e .

p e pper i t sh ould b e gr oun d i mmed i at e ly bef ore


use .T h e M ay onna i s e O f c our se t ak e s th e c olor
Of the chopp e d h e rb s that a r e used t o s e as on i t ;
th us wi th a l i ttl e ch erv i l an d tarragon i t be

c omes s auc e v e rt e ( gre e n sa uce ) ; wi th

ch opped t r ul e s i t i s l a sauc e dem i d e ui l ( half
-


m o urn i ng ) ; i t ta k e s t he nam e of s auc e Ca r

di n al e wh en l ob st e r c or al i s added an d i t i s ,

c alled P ort ugue s e wh e n m i xed w i th tomato ; and


i nd i enne wh en s om e c urry i s put i nto i t T he

.

s i mple M ay onn a i s e h ow e v e r c on si st s m e r ely of


, ,

O i l v i n e gar p epper an d s alt a l i ttle m ustard


, , , , ,

an d th e y ol k of an egg T her e h as b e en m uch


.
THE B OO K OF S AUCES 93

ar gum ent as t o how th e n ame M ay onn ai s e c am e


to be g i ven to th i s sauce O n e v ersi on i s th at i t
.

i s a c orr upt i on of B ay on n ai se, fr om th e t own of


B ayonne , wh e r e i t or i gi n at e d Another v e rs i on
.


i s th at the n ame i s r e ally M ahon n ai se and t o ,

h ave bee n gi ven i n h ono r of M ar sh al Ri chel i eu


a fter th e ta ki ng of P ort M ah on , the c ap i t al of

M i norca, wh i ch th e D uk e made h i mself mast e r


of after hav i ng b eat en the E ngl i sh An othe r
.

ve r si on att ri b utes the i nvent i on of th i s s auce t o


M ayenne an d in s i sts that th e n am e was o ri g
,

i nally Car eme says that w e


M ay e n n ai se .
.

an d that i t c o m es

ought to say M agn on n a i se ,

fr om th e verb m an i er from th e energet i c st i r


ri ng the s auc e und e rg oe s i n co ur se of preparat i on .

H e contrad i cts th i s h i m self i n a n other chap t er of


h i s boo k where i n en umerat i ng a l i st of d i she s
, ,

n am ed after th e loc al i t i es wher e they or i gi n ated ,

h e c i tes th e word
M agn on n ai se as be i ng de

r i ved from the town of M agnon , alth ough at th e


s ame t i me there i s n o s uch town i n Franc e T h e .

p h i l ologi sts d i sp ute every p o i nt except th at the


sauc e i s most st i m ulat i ng t he mo st un ct uous an d
, ,

th e most appet izi ng of all col d sauces .

Pl ai n M ay o nna i se : T h e mak i ng of a M ayo n


n a i se i s the terror Of un ski lled coo k s T O bel i eve
.

the m , the r e are al l sorts of d i fc ult i es i n m ak i n g


i t T he wor k i s l ong an d tro ubl e some , an d th e
.

s ucces s of the res ult i s always proble m at i c S om e .

preten d t hat i t can only be mad e over i c e, an d


that the sauc e m ust always be st i r r e d th e s am e
way ( B oth th ese ar e gross er r o r s ) It i s pr e f
. .

c rable t o ope r ate i n th e war m th r ather than i n

c omplete cold , as th e oi l i n congeal i ng i s an


ob stacle i n the as si m i lat i o n of th e liq ui d wi th
th e yol k an d v i negar an d t he s auce r ap i dly
deco m p oses .

A s f or th e b el i e f th at the spoon or wh i s k
sho uld be t urned on e way rather than the oth er ,

i t i s too r i d i c ulo us t o t ro uble o urselve s wi th T h e .

r ec i p e herew i th may be cons i dered i nfalli ble n ot ,

only bec ause th e i ngr e d i e nt s are di ff er e nt t o th os e


o rd i nar i ly empl oy e d but bec ause Of th e meth od
,

of operat i ng and m i x i ng th e i n gred i e nts .

P ut i nto a r oun d b owl the yolk s of tw o eg gs,


94 T HE B OO K OF SA UCE S
half a te asp oon ful of salt, h alf th i s quan t i ty of
wh i t e p e pp e r, a tea spo onful of m ustard an d th e ,

s am e of v i n egar M i x thes e i ngr e d i ents v i gor


.

ousl y w i th a sm al l metal wh i s k , add the O i l gr a d

ual l y wi tho ut stopp i ng st i r r i ng Gr e at c ar e m us t


.

b e tak e n n ot t o all ow th e M ay onn ai s e to become


t oo th i c k T h i s can b e avo i ded by add i ng a few
.

d rops of v i nega r or cold wate r T he m e tho d of .

m i x i ng th e yol k s wi th th e m ustard v i negar s alt , , ,

an d peppe r t o b e gi n w i th i s t he m ai n p o i nt of
the r ec i pe , an d th e reaso n why s uccess i s c ertai n ,
as th e m i xt ure ass i m i lates eas i ly w i th th e oi l ,
an d i t i s n ot even n ec e s sary to add i t dr op by

drop but i t m ay be p ut i n spo onf ul by spoonful


,

w i tho ut fea r T he pr i nc i pal advantage Of the


.

meth od of operat i ng i s th at s ufc i ent M ayonn ai s e


f or si x p e ople c an b e prepared i n ve m i n utes ,
wher eas th e O l d way w oul d tak e a q uarte r of an
h o ur T h e use of a wh i sk i n plac e of a woode n
.

s p o on i s of gre at i mportan ce .

G r ee n M ay o n n ai se : T ak e a larg e spr i g of
p arsley, on e of ch erv i l, c h i ves , an d t a rr agon .

Wash , blanch , drai n , and r efre sh e n S queez e out .

th e mo i st ur e i n a n ap ki n , an d p ut th e m i nto a
m o rt ar wi th th e yol k s of three hard eggs , s alt ,

p epper , two anchov i e s , an d a l i ttl e mustar d .

P o un d add i ng O i l an d v i negar unt i l th e p ur e


,

b e comes smo oth T hen pass i t thr ough a hai r


.

si ev e by th e a i d of a p alet k n i fe M i x th i s p ur e .

wi th M ayonn ai se .

To m ato M ay o nn ai se : Put th e yol k s of 2 r aw


eggs i nt o a m i x i ng b as i n , add a p i nch of salt ,

an d st i r i n grad ually a g i ll of s alad O i l M i x a .

t e aspo onf ul of tarrag on v i n e gar an d on e of ch i ll i


v i n e ga r w i th th e same quant i ty of French vi n e
,

gar . Wor k th i s i n by d e gr e es unt i l th e sauc e


as s umes a r i ch creamy cons i stency M i x about a .

gi ll of to m at o p ur e w i t h the M ayonn ai se an d ,

plac e i t on th e i c e fo r ab o ut an ho ur , th en s e rv e
w i th c old m e at o r use for a c old entr e .

M ay o n n ai se aux F i n e s H e r bes : P r e par e a


M ay onn ai se w i th t w o egg y o l k s and when i t i s ,

mad e and sea son e d add a l i ttl e tarrag on cherv i l , ,

an d par sl e y, al l n e ly ch opped M i x well an d .

s e r ve .
T HE B OO K OF S A UCE S 95

M ay onn ai se a l a P o r tugai se : A ll s auce s call e d


P ort ugai s e ar e u sually red , an d c ol ored by m e ans
of t omato es A dd to the M ay onnai se a tabl e
.

spoonful O f tom ato p ulp pr e v i o usly p asse d


thr o ugh a ne s i eve M i x well and se r ve
. .

M a y o n n ai se a l a Car di n ale : T h i s s auc e tak es


i ts n am e from the scarlet c ol or c omm un i c at e d to
M ayonna i se by th e add i t i on O f cray sh or l ob
ste r coral P as s th e c oral thro ugh a h ai r s i ev e
.
,

m ix wi th th e s auce, an d seas on wi th a l i ttl e


c ayenn e or papr i k a .

Cap e r M ay o n n ai se : M i x a tabl e spoonful or

two of nely ch opped capers to half a p i nt of

M ayonn ai se .

Tm e M ay o nn ai se : T h i s i s a M ayonna i se t o
wh i ch n e ly ch opped tr uffle s hav e b e en add e d .

T h i s p reparat i on i s k nown as demi de ui l sa uc e -


.

M ay onn ai s e a l a Gel e : Put i nto a bas i n some


almost cold a sp i c j e lly M i x th i s w i th the s am e
.

quant i ty of ol i v e O i l an d thr e e table spoonf ul s of


v in ega r .A dd a teaspoonf ul of chopped n e
h erbs , s alt , and pepper S t i r th e sa uc e on i c e
.

wi th an e gg wh i sk unt i l i t c omm e nce s t o th i c k e n .

T hen tak e i t O E the i c e and wh i s k i t a f e w


m i n utes longe r T h i s M ay onn ai se i s usua l ly em
.

ployed w i th c old sh or f owl It i s l i ghter th an .

M ayon n ai se m ad e wi th egg, but i s les s app r e


ci a t e d.

Cu m b erl an d S au ce : T h i s s auc e i s m uch i n


favor i n E ngl and , and i s s erv ed wi th cold gam e
or g al ant i n e of boar s head Ch op up t w o sh a l

.

lot s an d put them i nt o a st e wpan w i th th e j ui c e


of an or ange and a lemon c ut i nto n e J ul i enn e .

B o i l i n water for twe nty m i n utes an d drai n .

T hen put the j ui c e and shall ot s i nto a b as i n wi th


s i x sp oonf uls of c urrant j elly , three O f p ort w i n e ,

a p i n ch Of gr o und gi nger , a li ttle c ayenn e an d ,

the j ui c e of the lemon and orange .

S auc e a l a D i ab l e : T h i s s auc e i s s erv e d an d


eaten wi th gr i lled m e at Ch op thr e e p e eled
.

sh allot s an d h al f a clove of garl i c , and bo il i n a


small pan wi th tw o spo onful s of vi n e gar and a
spr i n k li ng of cay e nn e f or t en m in ut e s A dd a .

l i ttle tomato s auc e an d Worcester s auce , an d


96 T HE B OO K OF S A UCE S
a llow t o c o ol M i x th i s w i th a rath er th i c k
.

M ayonn ai s e .

P epp e r S auce : P epp e r s auc e pr op e rly so


call e d i s s e rv e d hot wi th c e rta i n e n t r ee s and ,

us ually w i th br ai s e d l l et O f beef , but the c old


pepper s auc e eat e n wi th ar t i cho k e s an d aspara
g u s i s s i mply m ad e w i th O i l ,
v i n e gar p e pper , ,

and salt, t o wh i ch a l i ttle m ustar d may be added .

Rav i got e S auc e : T h e n ame of rav i got e was


f ormerly gi v e n t o a m i xt ur e O f h e rb s ch opp e d
n ely c omp ose d of par sley, c h e rv il tarr agon ,
, ,

ch i ves , p i mpern el, and c ap e rs T h i s i s th e or i gi n


.

of r av i got e sa uc e , w hi ch i s a s i mpl e v i n a i grette

s e asone d wi th th e se h erbs and w i th the add i t i on


of choppe d or p ound e d y o l k of h ard b oi l e d e gg -
.

T h i s sauce i n th e O ld days , was k nown as


,

gr e bi c he .

R m oulade S auce : R m oulade i s O fte n c on


f oun de d w i th r av i g ot e, a lth ough the sauces are
ent i rely d i ff e r e nt Rmo ulad e d i ff e rs fr om oth e r
.

cold s auces i ns omuch a s m ustard i s i ts charac


t e r i sti c bas i s, an d i t i s avored w i th po unded
anchov i es Chop up n ely three shall ot s and fry
.

them i n O i l, st i rr i ng the m unt il th e y tak e a l i ght


c olor T h e n dr ai n an d let th e m c ool Ch op up
. .

s om e p ar sl ey, cherv i l, an d p i mp e rn e l P ut th e se .

h e rbs i n t he c orner of a n ap ki n an d st e e p th e m ,

i n bo i l i ng water P re ss out th e mo i st ure by


.

wr i ng i ng the l i nen , an d p ut th e h e rbs i nto a


b owl w i th th e ch opped sh all ot t w o t easpo onf ul s ,

of tarr a g on m ustard , s alt , an d p e pp e r A dd o i l .

drop by drop , st i rr i ng wi th a wo od e n sp oon or


w i th an egg whi s k , and n al l y put i n a sufc i ent
quant i ty of v i negar A dd t he O i l t o t he m ustard
.

very c arefully, otherwi s e th e s auc e wi ll dec om


p ose .

R m o ul ade S au ce 51 l In di enn e : P o und i n a



.

sm all m ortar th e yol k s of fo ur h ard bo i l e d e ggs , -

add in g l p i nt of oi l an d 9g gi ll of v i n egar ,
drop by dr op A dd two teasp oonf uls of c urry
.

paste , s e a son , an d p ass thro ugh a s i e v e T h i s i s .

used w i th p o ultry or game s alads It sh o ul d .

h ave a v e ry pron ounc e d y e ll ow color .

T ar ta r e S auce : M i x th e y ol k s of three hard


b o i led eggs i n a sm al l b as i n then add a tea ,
T HE B OO K OF S AUCE S 97

spoonful of Fr e nch m ustard and as m uch E ngl i sh


m ustard S e as on w i th salt p e pp e r an d a sp oon
.
, ,

f ul of v in e gar M i x wi th an e gg wh i sk an d
.

al low th e O i l to r un from the b ottl e i n a th i n

threa d, wh i ski ng c on st an tly un t i l the sauc e


th i c k ens . It can b e th i nn e d w i th v i n egar i f
n ec e ssa ry A dd n al ly cap e r s ch opp e d gh e r kin s
.
, ,

cherv il tar ragon and a spr i n k l i ng of c ay e nn e


, ,
.

If thes e i nstr uct i on s are f oll ow ed t o the l e tte r


th e sauce sho uld n ot t urn E i th er har d bo i led .

or r aw yol k s of e gg s may be used .

V i na i gr e tt e : T h i s i s us ually serve d wi th .

asparagus and glob e art i ch ok es It sh oul d n ot .

b e prepared i n advanc e A s a r ule each perso n .

mak es i t on hi s own plat e It i s s i mply c om .

p osed of oi l v i negar s al t an d p e pp e r t o wh i ch
, , ,

a li ttl e m ustard m ay be add e d ; ch op pe d p ar sley,


ghe rk i ns , etc , can al so be m ix e d wi th i t i f li k ed
. .

F RU I T S A UCE S .

The co n t i n ent al c ustom of serv i ng f rui t s auce s


as an accompan i m ent w i th c ert ai n sh, r o ast ,

brai s e d or b o i led meat r oas t gam e an d p oul t ry


,

i s becom i ng fash i onabl e i n othe r c o untr i es .

App l e S au ce ( served w i th r o as t po r k goose or , ,

duc k ) : P eel and cor e 1 1h of c oo ki ng appl e s .

an d sl i c e th i nly, put th e m i nto a stewpan w i th


an o un ce of s ugar and a t e ac upful of c old
,

water . Co o k the appl e s unt i l th ey ar e t e nde r


an d wi ll mash e as i ly ; they re q ui r e fro m th ree
q uart ers of an ho ur to an h our t o co o k P as s .

th e fr ui t thro ugh a w i re s i ev e r et urn the sauc e ,

to the stewp an , st i r i n abo ut an o un c e of b utt e r ,

a n d se r v e h ot .

A pp le S auce ( An ot he r Way ) : P eel core an d ,

sl i c e 6 lar ge so ur coo ki ng apples an d coo k the m


ti ll tend e r wi th IA p i nt r i ch gr avy r ub thro ugh ,

a n e wi r e s i e ve and add a t i ny p i nch Of c ayenn e .

B r o wn App l e S au c e : P e el , c ore an d sli c e


th i n ly abo ut 1 lb of c ookin g apples put them i n
.
,

a stewp an wi th ab out a p i nt of br own stoc k or


gr avy , an d let th em bo i l unt i l th e frui t i s ten
d er. S t i r them and mash the m fro m t i me to
98 THE B OO K OF SA UCE S
t i me , an d wh e n they are m ash e d add h alf a
sal t sp oonful of cayenn e pepper S erve h ot . .

Cher ry S auc e ( S e rve d w i th Ro ast S n i pe an d


Woodcoc k s) : Remove th e stems fro m lb of.

c oo ki ng ch e rri e s , ston e them , wash the m an d


drai n the m fro m th e water i nto a stewp an , add
an o unc e of s ugar an d the j ui c e of half a l emon .

Let th e ch e r r i es st e w gently fo r th r ee quar ters


-

of an hou r . S e r v e th e m hot i n a s auce b o at .

Cr an b err y S au ce ( S erved w i t h Ro ast T u rk ey,


D uc k or Gam e ) : Wash lb of cran b e rri es
.
,

th e n put th e m i n a st e wp an , add s ufc i ent wate r


to c over them, an d an ounce of s ugar Allow .

th e c r an b er r i es to st ew f or ab out h al f an h ou r,
an d s e r ve w h e n c old .

Dam so n S auce : T O a p i n t of v i n egar a dd a


p oun d Of lo af s uga r, half an o unce of cloves , an d
3 quarts of dam sons B oi l all t ogeth er t i ll the
.

f r ui t i s tend e r , th en p as s thro ugh a n e s i eve ,

a n d b ottl e an d c or k at once .

Goo seb e rry S au ce ( S erved w i th M ac k e r el an d


Roast P or k , an d S omet i mes w i th B o i led Lam b or
M utton ) : Top an d ta i l a p i nt of gr ee n , u n r i p e
go os eberr i es , wash them, an d place the m i n a
st ewp an , add an o un c e of s ugar, a gi ll of c ol d
water Cov e r th e stewpan and coo k slowly fo r
.

about h alf an h o ur ; sh ak e th e p an fro m t i me t o


t i me t o prevent th e fr ui t f r om st i c ki ng When .

th e fr ui t i s qui t e soft, p ass th r o ugh a s i ev e, an d


s e r v e th e sauc e hot .

O r an g e S auc e ( S e r ve d w i t h Roast W i l d Duc k ,

W i dgeon an d T eal ) : T ak e h alf a p i nt of well


av ored stoc k or gravy ( fr e e fro m fat ) , a dd th e
grated r i n d an d j ui c e of a S evi lle O r an ge ( f ai l
i ng S ev i lle oran ges us e th e ord i n ary so ur
o r an g e s ) , a sm al l glass Of sher ry , and h alf a salt
spo onful of c ayenn e p eppe r M i x th es e i ngr e
.

di e n t s an d put th e m i n a s aucepan Let th e


.

s auc e s i mme r fo r abo ut 1 0 m i n utes an d s e r ve h ot .

O r an g e S auc e ( Anoth e r Way ) : Put 2 table


spoonfuls of r ed c urr an t j elly i nto a sma ll b asi n ,

and p lac e i t i n a ves sel c ontai n i ng bo i l i ng wate r ;


wh en th e j elly has m elted add th e gr ated ri n d
,

an d j ui c e of a S ev i lle orange , the ju i c e of h al f


T HE B OO K OF S AUCE S 99

a lemon , h alf a te aspoonf ul of salt h alf a s alt ,

spo on ful of cayenn e an d a tabl e spoonf ul of p o r t


,

w in e M i x the i ngred i e n ts well, and s e r v e th e


.

sauce hot or c old .

Oporto S auce : Put i n to a clea n saucep an th e


f ollowi ng i ngred i ents : a wi neg l assful of port
wi n e, a dessert sp oonful of brandy, and a t ab le
spo onful of r ed c urr an t j elly a doze n ston e d ,

M o r ella cherr i es , a sm all apple, peeled , cored ,

an d cut u p small , and 3 French pl um s B o i l up .

slowly an d tak e out the fr ui t wh e n c ook ed M i x .

a t e asp oonf ul of co r n or v i ce o ur an d a te a

s p oonf ul of c asto r s uga r w i th a tablespo onful of


po r t wi n e ; add th i s to th e r st l iquo r an d b o i l ,
.

P ass th e fr ui t thro ugh a ne s i eve an d a dd t o


t h e s auce S e r ve i t i ced or ve ry cold
. .

Rai si n S au ce ( S e r ve d w i th Ro ast or B rai s e d


M eat ) : S tone an d wash 2 o unces of ra i s i ns , and
bo i l th e m i n a stewp an i n half a p i nt Of wate r
f or about 20 m i n ute s M elt i n a stewp an an
.

o un c e of b utter add an o un ce of o ur an d st i r
, ,

ove r th e r e un t i l n i cely browned then add half ,

an oun c e of sweet almonds , bla n ch ed and


shredde d , th e gr ated r i nd an d j ui c e of half a
lemon , a tablespoonful of v i n ega r, also h al f an
o unce of s ugar a gla ss of claret a s altsp oonf ul
, ,

of s al t an d h al f a salt spoonf ul of grated n ut


,

m eg; then add the stewed r ai si ns allow the ,

s auc e to bo i l for a few m i n utes , an d se r ve h ot .

S ul t an a S auce ( S erve d w i th B rai se d o r S tewe d


H ar es , Rabb i ts , Rago uts ) : Pi c k an d wash
an d
an d so ak i n tep i d water 2 o unc e s of s ultan as ,

an d co o k them i n a stewp an for ab out 1 5 m i n utes

i n half a p i nt of water M ix an ounce of c orn


.

o ur wi th an ounc e of b utt e r an d st i r i t i nto ,

the bo i l i ng fr ui t an d c oo k unt i l i t th i c k e ns A dd .

th e grat e d r i n d and j ui c e of half a l e m on an d a


small glas s Of cl aret Reheat and serv e hot . .

T am ar i n d S auc e ( U sually S erved wi th F i sh ) :


M ix lb Of tamar i nds w i th
. p i nt of water
an d r ub all thro ugh a wi re s i e ve ; put th e p ulp
th us O btai n ed i nt o a sa uc e p an , add a wi n e g l ass
ful of port wi ne or clar e t the j ui c e of h a l f a ,

lemon an ounc e of sugar , and half a saltsp oonf ul


,

of c ayenne B o i l up and s ti r the i n gr e d i e nts


.
1 00 THE B OO K OF SA UCE S
u n t i l q ui t e s mo ot h A dd m o r e wate r i f foun d
.
,

t oo th i c k. S erve the sauce hot or cold .

Re d Wi n e Rai si n S auc e ( S e r ve d wi th Ro ast


B eef, V en i son or W i ld B i rds ) : S ton e 4 oz s of .

r ai s i ns an d chop the m nely, th e n s i mmer i n a


stewp a n w i th half a p i nt of D e m i gl ac e sauc e -

f or t e n m i n utes , add th e j ui c e of a lemon an d ,

the gr ated r i n d of a quarte r of i t , a glas s Of


cl ar et , als o a te aspoonful of casto r s uga r B o i l .

up an d c o o k f or ten m i n utes, th e n se r ve hot or


c ol d .

S WE E T S AU CE S .

F or Hot an d Col d P u ddi ngs F r ui t Ti m bal es


, an d

Cr o ut es F r i t te rs et c
, , .

Al m o n d S auce : Put i nto a s aucepan h alf a


p i n t of m i l k, br i ng n early to the bo i l then st i r ,

i n slowly on e level d e ssertspoonf ul of c or n our


or c o r nsta r ch prev i o usly m i xed w i th a l i ttle cold
m i l k ; st i r t i ll i t bo i ls th en a d d h al f an o unc e
,

of V alenc i a almon d s an d fo ur b i tte r almon d s ,

p r ev i o usly blanche d , p eele d , choppe d an d po unded


t o a past e w i th 2 o unces of c asto r s ugar ; r eb o i l
t he whole , the n ad d a r aw yol k of egg Re h eat ,
.
-

b ut d o n ot let i t bo i l aga i n S e r ve h ot or cold


. .

Al m on d Cr e am S auc e : B lan ch an d s k i n on e
O unc e of J ordan alm on ds and s i x b i tte r almonds ;
th e n put them i n a m orta r w i th 4 o unces of
c asto r s uga r an d a t ab el sp oon ful of o r ange our -

wate r, an d po un d them nely ; r emove th i s and


p ut i n to a small stewpan , add a gi ll of c r eam
a n d 2 e gg yol k s , and wh i s k th e sauc e over bo il

i n g wate r unt i l i t r esembles a smooth cream .

A l m on d S au c e f or F r ui t S al ad : B lanch an d
p eel on e d ozen sweet and fo ur b i tte r almon ds ,

s oak the m i n c old water f or abo ut two h ours ;


d r ai n an d chop them, n ext put th em i n a l i ttl e
c old wate r w i th a few drops of l e mon j ui c e and ,

sufc i ent s alt and pepper to s e as on ; by d e grees



add a few spo onf ul s of sh e r ry j ust eno ugh t o
m a k e i t th e con si sten cy of cream T h i s dre ss
.

i ng may be used on sl i c e d apples , pears , p each es


an d f r esh gs .
THE BO O K OF S A UCE S 1 01

Apr i cot Re qui r e d : 2 tablespoo n fuls


S auce :
of apr i cot marm al ade V2 g ill sherry or
,

brandy, 1 gi ll water oz fr e sh b utter


, . .

P ut th e m ar m alade i n a st e wpan an d let di s ~ ,

s olv e w i th the water an d b utter Rem ov e fro m .

t he re , add the sh e rry or bran dy bo i l up aga in , ,

strai n and use as r e qui r e d A l i a i son of on e


,
.

de ssert spoonful of c or n our add e d to th e above


w ill im pr ov e th e appearanc e f or c oo ki ng p ur
pos e s
. A l i ttle s ugar may b e added i f fo un d
n ece ssary .

B an an a Cr e am S auce : P e e l thr e e r i pe b an an as ,

and r ub them th r ough a s i e ve M i x an o unc e .

of c or n or r i c e our w i th a l i ttl e cold wate r i nto


a smo oth past e , add t o i t a g ill of cr e am st i r ,

ove r the re unt i l i t b o i ls , an d all ow t o s i mme r


f or ve m i n ut e s , then add th e ban ana p ul p ,
abo ut 1 % O z of c a sto r s ugar an d a tables poo n
.
,

f ul Of r osewater Re h eat and av o r w i th a


.
-

li ttle lemon r i nd La st Of all st i r i n a l i ttle


.

wh i pped c r eam .

B r an dy S auce : R e q ui r e d : 4 oz lo af sugar , .

oz c o r n our
. gi ll brandy , 15 p i n t wate r
,
.

P ut t he s ugar an d rath e r more than a gi l l an d


a hal f of water i n a c opper stewpan bo i l a f e w ,

m i n utes , tak e O E t he sc um and red uce t o a th i n


,

syr up . M i x th e c or n our w i th a l i ttl e c old


wat e r st i r i nto th e b oi l i ng syr up an d wh i sk
, ,

ov e r th e re fo r ab out ve m i n ut e s A dd the .

bran dy, str ai n an d se rve hot w i th th e p udd i ng


, .

Br an dy B utte r : Wor k to a c ream i n a b a sin


w i th a w ood e n spo on 6 ounces of fre sh b utte r
,

wi th 2 o unces of i c i ng s ugar th e n add by d e ,

gr ees 2 de ssert spoonf ul s of l e m on j ui ce and 2 ,

to 3 tablespoonf ul s o f br an dy ; b e at unt i l i t
re sembles wh i pped c r e am and p ut i t on the ,

i c e t i ll r e qui red T h i s sa uc e i s g ood w i th m ost


.

st e ame d or bak e d p udd i ng s ; i t can also be use d


as a gar n i sh f or c old p udd i ngs .

Car am el S auce : ( an ot he r w ay ) : P ut an o unc e


of l oaf sugar i nt o a c opp e r pan and c ook i t t o
a l i ght b r own co l or ; p our i n qui c k l y half a p i nt
of syr up avo r w i th van i lla p od or e sse nc e and
,

r ed uc e a l i ttle A b out v e m i n ut e s b e f or e serv


.

i n g i ncorporate a d e sse rt sp oonf ul of arr ow root ,


1 02 THE B O O K OF SAUCE S
prev i o usly m i x e d w i th a l i tt l e cold m i l k or cre am .

B o i l whi l e st i rr i ng f or a few m i n ut e s , the n st r a i n


a n d s erve .

Chau deau S auce : i nto a small stewpan 1


P ut
g i ll of wh i t e w i ne, Chab l i s , S auterne o r H o c k ;
w hi s k i n 3 y ol k s of e ggs and 1 oz of c astor .

s ugar , an d st i r or wh i s k ov e r th e r e t i ll th e m i x
t ure bec omes a cr e am l ik e fr oth It m ust b e hot
-
.

but n ot bo i l i ng P o ur over th e p udd i ng or s e r ve


.

i n a s auc e b oat .

Che r r y S auc e : Cre am up 2 o unc es Of f r es h


b utte r an d 2 o unces of s ugar, th en add the
wh i s k ed wh i te of an egg, an d ab out h alf a p i nt
of c h er ry p ulp , m ad e fr om fresh or b ottled
ch e r r i es ; th e fr ui t sh ould b e r st st e wed M i x .

i t all well together, an d add a tab l espoonf ul of


k i rsch or r um , and i f l ik e d a few drops of l iqui d
c ar m i n e S e r v e h ot or c old
. .

Chocol at e S auc e :
Re qui r ed 4
grate d oz .

c h oc olate , 2 oz i c i ng s ugar , 54 p i nt of wate r , 1


.
1

oz fc ule o r cr em e de r i z , 1 tea sp oonf ul van i lla


.

essenc e, tablespoonf ul of br an dy .

P ut th e cho colat e s ugar, and water i n a sauc e


p a n ; st i r O ve r th e re unt i l i t b oi ls M i x th e .

f c ule o r c r em e d e r iz w i th an e xtra gi ll of
cold wate r , add i t t o th e choc olate , br i ng i t
agai n to th e b oi l, and l e t s i m m er f or v e m i n
utes P ass thro ugh a tammy o r n ap ki n , ret urn
.

t o th e s aucepan add th e brandy an d van i lla


,

ess enc e, an d k e e p hot unt i l re q ui red .

Cho co l ate S au c e (N O
B o i l h alf a p i n t o f
.

grat e d c hocolate , add h a l f a gi ll of cream , st i r


th i s on t o two y ol k s Of egg s w e ll b e at en , r e
turn t o th e stewpan over th e r e an d st i r unt i l
i t th i c k ens A l i ttle s ugar m ay be adde d i f
.

r e qui red .

Cho co l at e S auce ( Col d) : P r epa r e a c ustar d as


f ollows : B eat up 4 y ol k s of e gg s, put th e m i n
a saucepan wi th half a p i nt of bo i l i ng m i l k
an d on e o unc e of castor s ugar , and st i r ove r th e
re unt i l i t th i c k e ns ; do n ot all ow i t t o b o i l
or i t w i ll c urdle ; add 2 o unces of chocolate p r e
v i ousl y d i s so l v e d and bo i led i n h alf a p i nt of

m i l k, wh en cool add i t to th e c ustard, t h en


T HE B OO K OF S AUCE S 1 03

p ass th r o ugh a ne si eve ; wh en c old st i r i n


about half a gi ll of wh i pped c ream and serve .

Cl ar et S au ce : P ut i n a st e wp an 1 % gi l l of
c lar et w i th 1 oz lo af s ugar, a p i ec e of c i nnamon
.
,

an d a sli c e of lemon B o i l up and add a d e ssert


.
,

spoonful of B rown an d P ol son s c or n our m i xed


w i th a table spo onf ul of c old wat e r Coo k f or .

te n m i n utes , str ai n an d s erve .

Coe e Cust ar d S auce : P ut 6 tablespoonfuls of


f r eshly made strong c oE e e i nto a sa uc e pan wi th


-

54 p i nt of m i lk an d 2 t o 3 o unc es of l o af sugar ;
let i t bo i l , strai n then s t i r or wh i sk i n t he
,

yo l k s of 3 eggs Re heat wh i l st st i rr in g unt i l


.
-

i t th i c k ens , strai n an d add a table spoonful of


,

c r eam.

Co ffee S au ce : Roas t 2 o unces of r aw c oE e e


b err i es i n a p an ove r a q ui c k r e t i ll of a
chestn ut br own c olor T h e n p o und th e m i n a
.

m ortar B oi l half a p i nt of wat e r and p our


.

over th e coE e e Cover an d let i t i nf use fo r s ome


.
,

m i nutes N ow stra i n an d sw e e te n w i th pla i n


.

i nco rporate a dessertspo onful of arrow root or ,

c or n our wi th a small gla ss of brandy or k i rsch .

A d d th i s t o th e c o ff ee Let s i mmer v e mi n ute s


.

an d s erve .

Cust ar d S au ce : B eat u p two eggs i n a ba si n ,

and add by d e gr e e s a p i nt of bo i l in g m i l k .

S weeten wi th an o unc e of c as tor s ugar and st i r


o r wh i s k ove r the re unt il th e m i xt ur e begi ns
to th i c k en an d i s of a c ream l ik e app e aranc e .

Flavo r w i th a few drop s O f van i lla or l e mo n


es senc e , then serve hot Gr e at car e m us t b e .

tak en n ot to let th e sauc e bo i l oth erwi se i t wi ll


cu r dle .

Cust ar d S auc e ( N o B o i l h alf a p i nt of


.

m i l k , b eat up t w o yol k s of e gg s i n a bas i n ad d ,

a h e ap i ng table sp oonf ul of cast or s ugar add som e ,

av or ing es sence i f l ik ed , st i r th e b oi l i ng m i l k
gr a d ually on th e egg ret urn i n to th e st e wp an,

and st i r ove r a gentle r e unt i l the c ustard i s


formed It m ust not on any acco unt be allowed
.

to bo i l If l ik ed a l i ttle th i c k er , a teaspoonful
.

of c or n our may b e m i xed wi th a l i ttl e c old


m ilk ; th i s m ust b e add e d t o the h ot m i l k be
fo r e th e yol k s , etc , are in corp orated Ci n n am on ,
. .
1 04 T HE B O OK OF S AUCE S
nu tmeg or l e m on r i nd may be us e d a s avo ri ng
i n pla c e of e ssenc e .

Cust ar d S auc e ( N o P ut i nt o a ba i n mar i e


.
-

p an p i nt of m i l k an ounc e of c ast or s ugar


, ,

an d a s ma l l p i ec e Of wh o l e c i nn amon or van i lla


pod . B o i l f or a few m i n utes then tak e out ,

th e c i nnam on or van i lla p od and add the y ol k s ,

of two eggs Wh i sk all unt i l i t i s of a cr e amy


.

c on si sten c y B e f or e s e rv i ng add a sm all gla ss


.

of sh e rry or M arsala .

Cur a coa S auce : Re q ui r e d : 1 oz fresh b utt e r .


,

3
% oz o ur, 1 g i ll m i l k 1 oz s ugar 1 wh ol e e gg
.
,
.
, ,

teasp oonf ul van i l l a e ss e nc e , oz n e l y .

ch opped p i sta c h i os oz n e l y chopp e d l e mon


,
.
-

p eel 1 t able sp oonf ul red c uracoa


,
.

M elt the b utt e r i n a small st e wp an st i r i n th e ,

o ur and bl e nd ov e r t he re for a f e w seconds .

M oi sten sl owly w i th th e m i l k , add t he s ugar ,

an d st i r well ove r th e re ; b eat up th e egg and


add al s o ; stra i n the sauc e i nto an oth er sauc epan ,
let i t get hot, but n ot b oi l i ng ; st i r i n th e l e m on
p eel , p i stach i os , an d c ura co a, an d s erv e as
d i rected .

Foam or Whi p S auc e : P ut i nto a s aucepan


the yo l k s of 3 e gg s and on e wh ol e e gg 2 ounc e s ,

of c as t or s ugar t he stra i n ed j ui c e of a lem on


, ,

a gla ss Of m ar sol o o r sherry an d on e Of brandy ,


u t the pan i n a larg e r on e c ont ai n i ng b o i l i ng
p
wat e r, plac e i t over the r e an d wh i sk unt i l the
s auc e i ngr ed i e nts r e s embl e f oam or br oth S e r ve .

hot or po ur i t ove r a p udd i ng .

H a r d S auc e ( N o Cream up 4 O un c es of
.

b utte r w i th 6 o un ce s of sugar , th e n st i r i n a
glass of sherry an d th e j ui c e of half a l e m on .

B eat th e m i xt ure unt i l a fai rly rm cream i s


obta i ned S pread i t n eatly on a plate and k e e p
.

on th e i c e t i ll wanted ; s e rve w i th hot p udd i ng .

B r andy m ay b e use d i n stead of w i n e .

J am ai ca S auce : P e el two r i p e banan as r ub ,

the m thro ugh a n e s i e ve, put the p ulp i nt o


a s auc e pan w i th a g i ll of water a d e ssertspo on ,

ful of c astor s ugar , add a t ablespo onful of wh i te


rum , b oi l up, an d th i c k en w i th a teaspoonf ul of
c or n our or c ornstar ch pr e v i ously m i xed w i th a
,

l i ttle cold m i l k B oi l up add the yol k s of 2


.
,
T HE B OOK OF S A UCE S 1 05

eggs , and av or wi th a fe w drop s of v an illa


e ss e nce .

Ki r sc h S auc e : P r oc e e d th e sam e as di recte d


f or brandy sa uc e b ut subst i t ute 175 gi l l of
,

k irschwa sser for the brandy .

Li q ueu r S auce : P ut t he yol k s of three o r fo ur


e ggs i n a b ai n mar i e p an w i th a small glass of
-

m ar as ch i no , c ur acoa or o ther sui table l iq ue ur ,

ad d 2 o unces Of loaf s ugar pr e v i o usly rasped on


th e r i nd of a lem on t o e xtract all th e zest an d
d i ss olved i n half a gi l l of water P l ac e th e .

p an i n the bai n m ar i e 0 1 a large p a n of hot


- '

water , then wh i s k the sauce unt i l i t h as a cream


l ik e text ur e , and s e rve at onc e .

M a r a sc hi n o S auc e : T ak e 1 oz fresh butte r , .

1
7 5 oz our , 1 gi ll m i l k 1 oz s ugar, 1 whole egg,
.
,
.

t e aspoonf ul van illa es se n c e , 75 oz nely


1 .

ch opp e d p i stach i os ,
O z nely chop p ed lemo n
.

r i nd 1 table spo onful of marasch i no


,
.

M e lt the b utter i n a small st e w pan , st i r i n


th e o ur and bl e nd over t he r e for a few s ec
,

ouds . M o i sten slowly w i th the m i l k add i ng the ,

s ugar , and st i r w e ll over th e re ; b e at up th e


e gg an d add also ; stra i n th e sauce i nto an oth e r

sauc e pan let i t get hot but n ot bo i l i ng ; st ir i n


, ,

the l e mon peel , p i stach i os , and th e m arasch i no ,


-

an d s erve as re qui red .

M ar m al ad e S au ce : Re q ui red : 15 oz co r n .

st ar ch or c or n our , 1 t abl e sp oonf ul marm al ad e,


O z c asto r s ugar , the j ui c e of h alf a lemon , 5
.

p i nt water 1 tab l e spo onf ul sh e rry


,
.

M i x the c or n our wi th a l i ttle c ol d water i n


a sauc epan , add to th i s re m a i nd e r of above
n am ed i ngred i ents and pl ac e on th e re st i r ti l l ,

i t bo i ls an d c oo k f or ten m i n utes the n strai n , .

M ok a Pu ddi n g S au ce : T ak e the y ol k s of thre e


eggs on e o unc e of c ast or s ugar an d a l iq ue ur
,

gla ss of Ki r sch w asser, a tabl e spo onful of cream


an d h alf a tablespo onf ul of str ong blac k c oE e e .

Wh i s k th i s over a s aucepan of bo i l i ng wate r


from 1 0 t o 1 5 m i n utes , lon g eno ugh to b i n d The .

s auce i s th en r eady for se r v in g .

Nutm eg S auce : B o i l i n a saucep an 1 % gi ll s


of m i l k wi th 34 ; o unc e of b utt e r an d a d es se r t
s p oonful Of c astor s ugar th en th i c k en wi th a ,
1 06 THE B OO K OF S A UCE S
d e ss e rtspoonful of c or n our or c ornstarch a dd ,

a sufc i e ncy of grat e d n utm e g to av or , al so


a d e s se rt sp oonf ul of bran dy and wh i s k i t ove r ,

t h e r e for s ev e ral m i n utes S erve hot . .

O r an ge S auc e ( N o Rub th e r i nd Of two


.

o r ang e s all over sev e ral l umps of l oa f s ugar,


then scrap e i t OE an d put i t i nto a s m al l st e w
p a n w i th the j ui ce and p ul p of fo ur oran ges ,

prev i ously r ubb ed thro ugh a n e s i eve ; to th i s


add a h eaped up dessert spo onful of a r rowroo t
-

or c or n our , p r ev i o usly m i xed w i th a l i ttl e col d


wat e r, an o unc e of c ast or s ugar, and a l ique ur
glas sful of c uracoa S t i r ov e r the r e unt i l
.

th e sauc e bo i l s, th e n s i mmer for abo ut 5 m i n ut e s


an d s e r v e hot .

Pun ch S y r up : R e qui red : 4 oz lo af suga r, .

1 orang e , V2 tabl e sp oonf ul van i lla essence ,


g i ll best r um , 1A
2 g i ll wate r .

Rub th e s ugar on th e orang e r i n d t o obt ai n


t he avo r Of h alf t he orang e P ut th i s i nt o a .

st ewp an , add th e r um , l i ght i t and c ove r q ui c k ly ; ,

l e t i t i nf use fo r a f e w seconds over t he re,


then add the water, van i lla e ssenc e and th e ,

p i ec e of o r ange, an d b oi l fo r v e m i n utes ; strain ,


an d serve hot wi th th e p udd i ng .

NO T E : If pref e rr e d, bran dy or k i rschwass e r


m ay b e us ed i n plac e of r um .

Rhuba r b an d B an an a S auc e : S tew 1 b un dle


of f or c e d rh ubarb i n a syr up mad e of 2 oz s of .

loaf s ugar an d gill of wat e r When s oft, r ub .

thro ugh a n e s i eve Cool an d add


. g ill of
cream and 2 tabl e spoonsful of b anana cut in t o
s m all d i ce S erv e col d w i th stewed r i c e or w i t h
.

c or n our blanc mange .

Rum S auce : B o i l up i n a s aucepan p i n t of


m i l k wi th two o unc e s Of loaf s ugar , the n a dd
a h eaped up d e ssertspoonful of c or n our or corn
-

starch prev i ously m i xed wi th a l i ttl e c old m i l k ,


r e b oi l
-

,
and add 2 tablespoonf uls Of r um Wh e n .

s erv i ng m i x i n i f l ik ed a few co ar s ely c h o pp e d


,

p eeled p i stach i o k ernels .

Rum S auc e (N oi n to a s auc ep an A;


. Put 1

p i nt of water , 3 tabl e sp oonf uls Of or an ge m ar


m alade , and the strai n e d j ui c e of a lemon ; let

these bo i l t ogethe r fo r ve m i n utes , then st r ain ,


THE B OO K OF SA UCE S 1 07

a n d th i c k en wi th a dess e rt sp oonful of c or n our


or cor n sta r ch , prev i o usly m i x e d wi th a l i ttle co l d

wate r, and b oi l f or an other ve m i n ut e s ; wh i s k


i n an egg y ol k, add al so a sm al l gl as s of r um ,

r e heat w i th o ut bo i l i ng and serve h ot


-
.

Ra spbe rr y S auc e : H eat up a gi ll o f r asp b e rry


p ulp or a s i m i lar p r oport i on of r aspbe r ry j am
w i th 1 oz of s ugar . M i x a t able spo onf ul of
.

c or n our wi th m i l k , cr e am or water and st i r i nto ,

th e ab ove B o i l for e i ght m i n utes , st r ai n an d


.
,

add r um or brandy to tas te .

S ab ay o n S auc e : P ut 3 oz c a sto r sugar , 3 .

yol k s of egg s, an d g i ll cream i n a st ewp an ,


p lac e i t i n a b ai n m ar i e or vess e l of bo i l in g
-

wat e r ov e r the re st i r w i th a wh i sk unt i l,

f r othy, th e n add 1 gi ll M ader i a w i ne wh i sk i t ,

unt i l i t b e gi ns to th i c k en and i s of l i ght app ea r


an ce , p o ur ove r th e p udd i ng and s erve .

S we e t S auc e : Put 37 4 p i nt of wate r i nto a


p an w i th th i nly peeled r i n d o f half a lemon ,

also of h alf an orange 2 o unc e s of s ug ar , a p i ec e


,

of c i nnamon , and h alf a bay leaf ; si mm e r f or -

a few m i n utes M i x a desserts p oonful of ar r ow


.

root w i th a l i ttle sherry an d add th i s , t ogeth e r


w i th the str ai ned j ui c e of h alf a lemo n an d on e
orange . S t i r ove r the re unt i l i t th i c k ens ,

stra in , an d ad d a t abl e spo onf ul of b r andy or


m arasch i n o and se rv e hot
,
.

Swee t Chaud fr o i d S auce : S oak


-
o z g el at i n e .

i n cold water , stra i n an d di ssolv e i n a s auc epan


wi th 1 gi ll of cream or m i l k r e d uc e a l i ttle ,

wh il st st i rr i ng and add th e d e si red avor i ng ,

such as fr ui t p ulp van i ll a, ki r sch m ar a sch i n o


, , ,

or r um .Co ok fo r a few m i n utes strai n and , ,

ad d a li ttle wh i pped cream st i r i n the i c e t i ll


,

n early c old , and use for coat i ng fr ui t : p e ach e s ,

pears, apr i cots , apples , etc .

S we et Le m o n S auc e : P ut 2 yol k s Of eggs i n


a small saucepan , beat up well an d add 2 oz ,
.

c asto r sugar t oz of cor n our an d th e r i nd


,
.
,

of h alf a l e mon chop p e d n ely M i x thoro ughly .

an d wor k i n slowly hal f a p i nt of bo i l i ng m i l k .

S t i r wi th a wh i sk ove r the r e unt i l th e s auc e


a c qui re s th e d es i r e d c ons i s t ency, st r a i n , an d s e r v e

as di r ected .
1 08 T HE O K OF S AUCE S
B O

S weet M el t e d B ut t e r S auce : R e q u i re d 1 oz .

fr e sh b utter oz our , 1 % g i l l of m i lk
,
. 1 des ,

s ert spo onf ul c ast or s ugar , a few dr ops of van i lla


-

essenc e .

D i ss olve th e b utter i n a saucepan , add the


o ur an d st i r ove r th e re for a few m i n utes
w i th out allo w i ng th e our to brown ; then add
by d egre e s t he m i l k , st i r t i l l i t bo i ls add t he ,

s ugar , and c oo k f or t e n m i n utes J ust befo r e .

s e rv i ng add van i lla cream .

Sw eet M ousseli n e S auce : R e qui re d3 yol k s of


eggs , 2 wh i tes of e ggs , g i ll cream , 1 % o z .

c a sto r s ugar, 1 w i neglassf ul marasch i no .

P ut a l l th e ab ov e i ngr e d i ent s i nto a s m all


stewpan , beat i t w i th a wh i sk , stand th e pan
i n a b ai n m ar i e or a lar ge ve ssel thre e p ar ts
-

full of b oil i ng wat e r S t i r unt i l i t b ec omes


.

c r eam y, but do n ot allow i t to bo i l S erve w i th .

hot sweet p udd i ngs , etc .

S w ee t O r an ge S auce : Re qui red 2 yol k s O f


eggs , 1 small orange , 2 oz c a st or s ugar , 54 p i nt .

of m i l k , 1 glass c urac oa .

B oi l up t he m i l k an d s ugar , ad d th e r i n d of
orange nely grated , the table spo onful of orange
j ui c e st i r i n the y ol k s of egg s, beat well ove r
,

th e r e w i th a small wh i s k Wh e n th e sauc e .

b eg i ns to th i c k en, pl ac e i n th e ba i n m ar i e or -

a v essel contai n i ng b o i l i ng water add the ,

l i que ur , an d c ont i nu e t o wh i sk fo r ten m i n utes ;


th e s auc e i s then r eady fo r s erv i ng .

C ol d S t r awbe rry S auce : B o i l up 1 g i ll of


str awberry p ulp w i th 1 oz of c asto r o r i c i ng .

s ugar M i x a d ess ertsp oonf ul of cor n our ( or


.

c orn starch ) w i th a t able sp oonf ul O f sh e rr y and


s t i r i nto th e above Coo k for ten m i n utes , st r ai n ,
.

add a t able spoonful Of cr eam , an d s e r ve .

Hot S t r awbe rr y S au c e : Re qui re d : T he p ulp


of a d oz e n larg e r i p e strawberr i es , 1 gl ass Of
,

S autern e or Chabl i s , 1 egg 1 oz s uga r ,


. .

P ut th e fr ui t p ulp , w i n e an d s ugar i n a s mall


,

st ewp an , wh i s k over a moderate r e unt i l al most


b o i l i ng, th en add th e egg ; cont i n ue to wh i s k
unt i l q ui te frothy ; on n o acco unt all ow i t to bo i l .

S erv e a s s oon as r eady .

Corn our S au ce : Re qui r ed : 1 t ab lespoonful


THE B OO K OF SA UCE S 1 09

c o r n star c h or c or n our p i nt m i l k , 1 p at fr esh


,

butte r, oz lo af s uga r , le m o n ri n d or v an i ll a
.

pOd .

B o i l up the m i l k w i th the b utte r, lo af suga r,


an d th e th i n r i nd of half a lem on o r an i nch of
van i lla p od M i x th e corn our wi th a li ttle cold
.

m i lk in a b as i n , an d po ur on i t th e hot m i l k ,

r e t ur n to the sauc e pan , b oi l u p , an d c oo k f or


e i ght m i n ut es .

V al an ci a S au ce : Put a tablespoonful of r e d
c urrant j e lly w i th a g i ll of wat e r i n a sauce
p an , and st i r over the r e unt il th e j e lly i s d i s
solv e d , th e n add the stra i ned j ui c e Of an orang e ,
and s ome of t he r i nd n e ly gr ated or cut i nto
,

ne shreds w i th a f e w blanch e d an d shredd e d


,

almond s or a tablesp oonf ul of des i c cated or


fr e sh cocoan ut S w e eten t o t ast e , an d se r v e
.

hot.

V an i ll a S auc e : P roc ee d i n th e s ame m an n e r as


ab ov e d i rected , om i tt i ng the l e mon r i nd an d
us i ng van i lla pod i n i ts plac e A l i ttle cre am m ay .

b e added j ust before s ervi ng .

V an i lla S auc e ( N o B o i l 1 gi ll of m i l k
.

w i th a van illa pod ; cream 3 egg yol k s w i th


1 oz of c as tor s ugar an d p o ur ove r wh i l st
.
, ,

st i rr i ng, th e m i l k Ret urn all i nto th e stewp an


.

an d st i r over th e re t i ll i t th i c k en s but must ,

n ot b oi l . S trai n an d serve as r e q ui red ( hot or


c old ) .

Wi n e S auce : Put i nto a j a r or bai n m at i c p an -

3 egg yol k s, a g i ll of sh e r ry , M ar sala or M a


de i ra, an d a tabl e sp oon ful of ca stor s uga r P lace .

t he pan i n a bai n m ar i e or e lse i n a larg e sauc e


-

pan of b oi l i ng wat e r , and wh i s k t i ll froth y a n d


of crea m l ik e c on s i st e ncy It m ust n ot b o il or
.

i t wi ll c ur dle .

S T O RE S A UCE S .

Co n di m en t Reli sh S auces for t he Ki t chen an d


or

th e T able .

A l b an y S au ce : Put the y olk s of 2 hard bo i le d -

eggs an d the yol k O f on e raw egg al so a l i ttl e ,

salt an d papr ik a p epper i nt o a m i xi ng b as i n , ,

an d m i x t i ll q ui t e s m ooth w i th a wo od e n spoo n
,
110 T HE B OO K OF SAUCE S
the n sti r i n sl owly a gi ll of L ucc a O i l , a t ab le
spo on ful of m ushro om cats up , a tablespoonful of
H ar vey s auc e, a tabl e sp oonful of anc h ovy essen c e
2 tablespo onfuls O f tomato p ulp , an d the strai n e d
j ui c e Of a f r esh le m o n M i x all well togeth e r
.
,

a n d s e rv e as re q ui red fo r gr i ll e d sh or gr i lle d

m eat ( use i t as col d m eat s auc e or as a s ala d

s auce ) .

B alm o r al S au ce : Put i n to a sauc ep an a quar t


of v i negar , 2 ounces of c ur r ants , 1 oun ce of
r ai s i ns a p i nt of gr een gooseberr i es an d 2 ou n ces
, ,

of D emerara s uga r ; let all s i mme r slowly fo r


h al f an ho ur, then put i nto a bowl a teas p oo n ful
of m ust ar d , a teaspo onf ul Of t urmer i c , a tea
s p oonful of m ac e , an d a good p i nch of s al t ; m i x
togeth e r w i t h p i nt of tar rag on v i n egar P a ss .

al l through a w i re s i ev e , a n d m i x well t ogeth e r .

Put th e s auc e i n to bottles well c o rk e d, whe r e i t


wi ll k eep for any le n gth Of t i m e .

Chutn e y Cat sup : P eel , quarte r an d co r e 1


d o z en large s ou r ap p les , an d p ass the m th r o ugh
a m i nc i ng mach i n e, togethe r w i th 6 tom atoes ,

4 peele d an d sl i ce d O n i o n s , an d lb of stone d.

r ai s i ns B o i l on e q uart of malt v i negar an d one


.

quart of c i de r v i negar f or 1 0 m i n utes w i th ,

lb of br own sugar, 2 tablespoonf uls of s alt an d


.
,

a S p i ce b ag c ont ai n i ng on e whole n utmeg a ,

p i ec e of g i nge r r oot , a p o un de d st i c k of c i nn a
mon , 1 2 wh ol e cloves an d a t ablespoonful Of
,

allsp i ce . T hen add the m i nc e d vegetables an d


fr ui t , an d coo k al l g e ntly t o th e c ons i sten cy of
a pur ee P ut i t i n to a i r t i ght j ar s or wi d e
.

m o uth e d b ottles .

Cu cum be r Catsup : P eel an d g r at e or c h o p 2


doz e n small r i p e c uc umbers , put them i nto a large
b as i n or pan , s p r i n k le ove r wi t h s al t , an d al low
the m to stan d c ove r ed fo r th r ee ho urs , th e n p o ur
OE the l iq ui d fo r med M eas ure th e p ulp , an d
.

to every quart ad d 2 p eeled an d nely choppe d


S pan i sh O n i ons , a s alt spoonful of cayenn e p e ppe r
and a teaspoonful each of s alt gro un d cloves ,,

an d allsp i c e B r i ng slowly to the bo i l , p our i ng


.

i n g r ad ually as th e c ats up b e gi ns t o s i m me r a
quart of French wi n e v i negar Coo k fo r 1 5
.

m i n utes an d when c old po ur i nt o bottles or


,

glass j ars , c ork and s eal .


T HE B OO K OF sav er s 111

Cum ber l an d Catsu p : i nto an earthenwar e


P ut
j ar 6 lbs, Of whi te or red grape s, plac e the j a r
i n a large r ves sel of bo i l i ng wat er , an d c o o k unt i l
the s k i n s Of th e grap e s b ur st S trai n th e j ui c e
.

c ar ef ully i nt o a clean c oo k i ng vessel , and r et urn


t o the re , ad d t o each quart Of gr ape j ui c e
lb of gr an ulated s ugar , 1 p i n t of v in egar , a
.

tablespoonful of salt, a t abl e spon ful of whol e


cloves , h al f a grated n utmeg, a t e asp on ful gr o un d
allsp i c e, an d a tablesp oonful gr oun d c i nn am on .

B o i l slowly for abo ut an h o ur , p ou r whi lst h ot


in to b ottle , an d cor k th em well .

M u shr o om Catsup : W i p e h al f a b ush el of


f r eshly gathered m ush r o o m s wi th a d am p clot h,
and arrange i n layer s i n a l ar ge ston e j ar ,

spr i n k le each laye r l i ber ally wi th n e s alt Let .

the m r em ai n thus fo r abo ut 1 2 ho urs M ash .

up the m ush r ooms well wi th a p otato m ash e r ,

car efully str ai n i ng OE the j ui c e thro ugh a n e


s i eve or b e rr y p ress A dd t o th i s l iq ui d a te a
. .

s p oonful of blac k p epper , half a doze n whol e


cloves , an d 2 st i c k s of c i nn amo n to eac h p in t
of m ushroom l iq uor th en bo i l slowly un t i l r e
,

duc e d abo ut on e h alf stra i n thro ugh a musl i n


-

b ag or cheesecloth , an d d i lute w i th 2 t abl e spoon ~


fuls of s p i ced v i n egar to eve r y p i nt of c ats up .

P ut i nto b ottles, c or k an d caps ule o r s e al th em .

Tom ato Catsu p : T ak e 3 or 4 lbs of r ip e to .


.

m atoes an d m as h th e m up, to th i s add 2 large

on i ons pe e led an d ch opped , 4 green p eppe r s al s o


c h opp e d nely , 2 t able sp oonfuls of salt 3 t ab le ,

spoonfuls of mo i st or D e merara s ugar g ill ,

of tarrag on v i n egar , 1 table spo onf ul of c r ush e d

whole c i nn amon , 1 d essert sp o onful of m ustar d ,

an d h alf a grated n utm e g P ut all into a sauce


.

a n w i th 3 q uarts of v i negar b i l g ntly unt i l


p o e ,

all the i ngredi ents are thor oughly coo k e d, wh i ch


wi ll tak e abo ut 3 h o urs , th e n strai n an d b ottl e
whi le hot .

Wal n ut Cat su p : B o i l some gr ee n waln uts t ill


t ende r i n s ufc i ent wat er to w ell cove r them ,

th en press th e m and m e as ur e the l iqui d To .

each gall on of th i s add $4 lb an ch ov i e s an d 4 oz


.
, .

shallots pe e led an d c ut up small


, ounc e cl oves , ,

ounc e mac e, an d 1 clove of gar l i c b rui sed or


112 T HE B OO K or SA UCE S
crush e d B o i l for abo ut 20 m i n utes , th en st r ai n
.

an d bottle and c or k .

Dunr av en S auc e : M ash u p 6 r i p e to m atoes an d


4 lar ge peeled an d coo k e d apples , an d p ass the m
th r o ugh a w i r e s i eve P ut th ese i n to a l ar g e
.

j a r, an d a d d a tablesp oonf ul of gr ate d h o r se


r ad i sh , a te aspoonful of m ustar d, a gl ass of
p o r t w i n e, th e j ui ce of 2 lemons , a q uart of wal
n ut c a tsu p , an ou n c e of m o i st s ugar al so a t ea
,

s p oo n f ul of s alt , an d teaspoonful of c ayenn e


p eppe r . M i x thes e i ngred i e nts well togeth e r,
b o i l up , s k i m an d stra i n , th en b ottle an d co r k .

E m p r e ss S au ce : P e el an d ch op nely 2 O n i ons,
f r y the m i n 2 o un ces of clar i e d b utte r t i ll Of
a li ght b r ow n c olor , a dd h alf a d o z en c hi ll i es or

c apr i cum s, cut i n t o s m al l p i eces an d te a


s po onful of s alt . S t i r all well togeth e r for a
few m i n utes , an d wh i lst st i rr i ng add the st r ai n e d
j ui c e of a le m o n , p i n t of v i nega r, a p i nt of
to m ato p ul p, a l i ttle wate r, an d a tablespoon
ful of Li ebi g s E xtract of M eat or M ar m i t e

E xt r act . Rub all thro ugh a ne s i eve, bo i l u p


agai n , t h e n b ottle an d us e as r e qui re d .

M adr as S au ce : P ut i n to a lar ge j ar 6 cho pp e d


r i pe tomato es , 4 g r ee n c oo k i ng apples ( peeled
an d choppe d ) , a few s p r i gs of gr een t arragon , 2
c ap si cums , 2 o unces s ultan as , 1 o unc e stoned
ra i s i ns , 2 oun ces Deme r ar a s ugar , an d a quar t
Of v i n ega r P ut th e j ar i n a slow ove n fo r 2
.

ho ur s M i x a t ea sp oonful of m ust ar d , a tab le


.

spoonful of g r ated ho r s e r ad i sh a teaspoo n ful of


-

gr oun d g i nge r, and a teaspoonf ul of s alt Rub .

th e c o n tent s of th e j ar th r ough a n e s i eve ,

ad d t o th e oth e r i ngre d i e n ts , bo i l agai n an d


b ottle an d cor k when col d .

Newcastl e S au c e : P o un d i n a m o r ta r an ou n c e
of blac k p eppe r corns an d m i x wi t h
,
o unc e of
al lsp i c e , a teaspo on f ul of s alt , an d a d ust of
c orall i n e p e ppe r , an o un ce of gr ated ho r se r a di sh -

a n d 4 sh allots peeled an d ch oppe d nely P ut .

t hes e i ngr ed i ents i n t o a j ar wi th a p i nt of goo d


m ush r o o m cats up , tog e th e r wi th a p i n t of Wor
c este r s auce an d abo ut h al f an o unce of br u i se d

gi ng e r . Cove r th e j ar an d let i t stan d f or a


fortn i ght , th en st r ai n OE the sauc e an d b ottl e
f or use .
THE B OO K OF SA UCE S 113

O ni o n S auc e : i nto an ear th enwar e j ar


P ut
an o unce of cayenn e or a s i m i lar q u an t i ty of
br ui sed c apsi c um or red p e pper , a p i nt of small
peele d b utton O n i ons , a tablespo onful of salt ,

3 t ablespoonf ul s of Ind i an S oy, an d gi ll of


m ush r o om k e tch up , th e n bo i l up 3 p i nts of v i ne

gar an d p our over th e i ngre di ent s Cover th e .

j ar and al low i t to st an d for about a week ,

sh aki ng i t fr e que ntly B o i l up th e l iqui d wi th


.

an oth e r h alf p i nt of v in egar , an d p our i t bac k


on to the i ngred i ents i n the j ar A llow i t t o .

stan d f or anoth e r wee k , -then strai n an d b ottle


f or use .

Quee n M ary S auc e ( S auc e Rei n e M ari e ) : T h is -

i s a r i c h brown sauc e m ade wi th m eat gravy


bas i s th i c k ene d w i th E spagnole and r ed uc ed
,

wi th a li ttle p ort wi n e, th e n ad d n ely chopp e d


fr i ed shall ot s, chopped p ar sley, an d a li ttl e an
c hov y essenc e to avo r .

S al ad D r e ssi n g : Rub th e yol k s of 3 h ar d b o i le d -

eggs thro ugh a se i v e i nto a b as i n add on e t able ,

spoo n f ul of Demer ar a s ugar on e t able sp oonful ,

of m usta r d 2 tablesp oonf uls of ta r ragon an d


,

a table spoonf ul of ch i ll i v i n e gar , also a te a


spoonf ul Of an chovy s auce M i x thes e well t o
.

g ethe r th
,
e n add by d egrees half a p i nt Of cre am

( t w o or th r e e days ol d i f proc urable ) S houl d .

a large q uan t i ty be ma d e th i s dre ss i n g wi ll k eep


,

go od f or on e month i f k ep t t i ghtly co rk ed i n
a cool p lac e .

S al ad Dr essi n g : ( No
t h e yol k s of
. Put
three fresh egg s i nto a b as i n , w i th h al f a te a
spo onful Of salt a l i ttle m i gn on e tte pepper a
, ,

t easpoonful of Fr e nch m ustard a p i nch of E n g ,

li sh m ustard , an d a s alt spo onful of c asto r s ugar ,


m i x well th en st i r i n gradually ab out h alf a
,

p i nt of salad oi l , w i th a table spoonful of tar r a


gon v i n egar and a de ssert spo onful of ch i ll i vi ne
gar . S t i r or wh i s k w e ll tog e ther unt i l of a
creaml i k e text ure then add a tabl e spo onful of
,

b oi l i ng h ot wate r, an d lastly abo ut a gi ll of


c r eam .

S p ani sh S al ad Dr essi ng : P ut i n to a m i x i n g
b as i n 1 g ill of cr e am , 1 p i n t of wi n e v i negar ,
ounc e of c asto r s ugar, t easpoonful of
1 14 T HE B OO K OF SA UCE S
c ayen n e 1 de ss ertspoonful of salt 1 d esse r t
, ,

spo onful of m ustard , and m i x al l th or oughly .

Cream an o unc e of b utter add i ng the yo l k s of


,

3 eggs at the same t i m e , th e n st i r i n abo ut half


a gi ll of b o i l i ng water Wh i s k t o a froth th e
.

wh i t es of 2 eggs , an d ad d th i s also the n blen d ,

both m i xt ures . S tan d th e b as i n i n a p an of


bo i l in g wate r, an d whi s k unt i l the s auc e i s
qu i te war m , lastly st i r i n ab o ut a gi ll of Lucc a
or O l i v e O i l. T h e oi l sho uld , howeve r, n ot b e
ad d e d unt i l th e sauce h as cool e d OE a l i ttle .

B ottl e an d co rk th e s auce and use as r e q ui r e d


, .

It i s well to always sh ak e the bottle b efo r e


us i ng th e d ress i n g .

T arr ago n Cr eam S auc e : Put i nto a b as in the


yol k s of 2 egg s, st i r well t i ll smooth , an d ad d
gr ad ual ly p i nt of go od salad oi l ; when cream y
ad d tea sp oonf ul of s alt , a tea sp oonful O f mad e
m ustard , an d a s altsp oonf ul of pepper , 2 teaspoon

f uls of an ch ovy e ss e nc e, a gi ll Of tar r a g on v i n e


gar , a gi ll of th i c k cream, an d 2 t abl e spoonf ul s
of c asto r sugar .M i x well together an d b ottle
t h e s auc e . S h ak e well before us i ng, a s th e
i ngr ed i e nt s s ettl e at th e botto m T h i s s auc e
.

i s excellent wi th all ki nds Of cold m eat, or m ay


b e used w i th an y k i n d of s al ad .

T a rr ago n H e rb S auce : R i nse i n col d wat e r a


b un ch of tarrag on wi th a l i ttle ch erv i l an d a
s m all propo r t i on O f other sw e et h e rbs th e n drai n ,

th oro ughly on a cloth S tr i p OE th e leaves i nt o


.

an earth e n war e j ar , po ur ov e r a q uart of bo i l i ng


v i n egar, c ove r clo sely an d allow t o stan d fo r on e
or two days , th e n stra i n , and m i x w i th on e th i r d -

of T omato Cats up an d on e th i rd of H arvey or -

Worc e st e rsh i r e sauce T h e s auc e i s then r ea d y


.

f or b ottl i ng .

Tom ato S au c e : Cut 6 p o un d s of r i p e t o m at o es


i nto sl i ce s an d put th em i nt o a s auc e pan w i th
,

2 large O n i ons pe e led an d sl i ced p ound of ,

D e m erara s ugar, an o unc e of s alt , an ounc e


of peppercorns , ha l f a t e aspoonf ul of c aye n n e
p eppe r, half an o unc e of gro un d cloves an d 4 ,

ounc e s of all sp i ce P o ur over two quart s of


.

v i nega r an d b oi l gently f or 2 ho urs S t i r f r e .

quently t o p r event b ur n i ng then r ub all t hr ough


,
T HE B OO K OF SA UCE S 1 15

a n e s i eve . When th e s auc e i s col d add a ,

li ttle c armi n e to gi v e i t a n i c e r e d di sh c olor ,

then bottle s ec urely and stor e i n a cool, dry p l ac e .

T o m at o S auc e ( N O W i pe th e re qui r ed
.

quant i ty of r i pe t omatoes wi th a c l oth and ,

bak e the fr ui t i n a sl ow ov e n unt i l tender Next .

r ub al l thro ugh a s i ev e an d mea sur e th e p ulp

th us O bt ai ned T o eac h quart of p ulp add a p in t


.

of tarragon v i n e gar , o un c e sha l l ots an d 1


clov e of garl i c , b oth peeled an d br ui s e d al so ,

1 t ablespoonf ul of an ch ovy e sse nc e B o i l all i n .

a co p pe r pan unt i l the sh al l ot s are tender N ow .

r ub al l thr ough a s i eve ag ai n and r e bo i l wi th ,


-

p i nt of v i n e gar an d 1 gi ll of Ind i an S oy t o
every quart Of to m ato p ulp .

T o m at o Chutn e e S auc e : P eel an d sl i c e 6 l ar ge .

s i zed tomato e s add t o the m 4 so ur apples p eeled


,

and sl i ced put i nt o a stewp an w i th 4 S p an i s h


,

O n i o n s p e e le d an d sl i ced a dozen c h i lli es , 6 ,


'

cloves , a c upful of brown sugar , a q uar t of v in e


gar , an d bo i l gently unt i l all i s tho r o ughly
c ook ed . P a ss all thro ugh a ne s i eve ; c olo r
i f l ik ed w i th a l i ttle l iqui d c ar m i ne then bottle ,

an d c or k or put i nto j ars and use when col d , .

Uni ver sal S auc e ( S auce Uni v e rsel le ) : T h i s i s


a h i ghly sp i ced c old meat s auc e pr e pare d w i th a ,

p i nt of m ushroo m k etch up a g i l l of port wi ne , ,

4 p eeled an d ne l y chopped sh all ot s, h alf a p i nt


of v i negar , gro und whol e sp i c e mace an d c ayenn e ,

p e pper to t aste M i x well and allow t o m atur e


.

before us i ng .

W or c este rsh i r e S auce : T ak e 3 quarts Of stro n g


v i negar , 1 lb of spl i t r a i s i ns , 1 lb garl i c ,
. lb . .

e sch al ot , o unc e cayenn e oun c e powdered ,

gi nge r salt to t aste , s mal l bottle of an chovi es


, ,

an d mushroom k etch up B o i l the an cho vi es


.
,

garl i c , esch al ot , and r ai si n s i n a q uart of th e


v i n egar i n an i r on saucepan unt i l i t c an b e p ulped
thro ugh a h ai r s i e v e th e n bo i l all together fo r
,

a few m i n utes B ottle wh e n c old It i s e s sent i al


. .

that the i ng r e d i ent s sho uld b e tho r o ughly b o i le d


befor e b e i ng p ulped .

Wo r ceste rshi r e S auc e ( N O P ut i nto a .

m ort ar o unc e caps i c ums or swe e t peppers ,

oun c e p eel ed shallots an d a clove of gar li c, an d


116 T HE B OO K OF SA UCE S
o u n d t i ll q ui te smo oth A dd a l i ttle v i ega r
p n .

an d put all i nt o a l ar ge j ar ; bo i l up O ne q uar t

of v i negar an d po ur i t ov e r th e p ounded i ngr e .

di e n t s add al s o a p i nt of waln ut k e tch up


, Cove r .

t he j ar an d allow i t to stan d for som e wee k s or ,

long en ough to extr act th e avor of the i ngre


di en t s used, th en stra i n an d bottle f or use .

"an k ee S auce :
i nto a sauc epan 1 quart Put
o f v i n e gar , oz all sp i ce , $4 oz gr oun d cl oves ,
. .

1
% oz blac k pepper ,. O z m ustard , 2 ozs . .

gr oun d J ama i ca g i ng e r , O z salt , 374 oz garl i c , . .

2 ozs s ugar , 8 ozs tamar i n ds , 1 O z c urry p ow


. . .

de r , o z cay e nn e pepp e r ,
. p i nt sh erry .

M i x t he i ngr e d i ents w e ll tog e th e r , and s i m


m e r g e ntly for ab out a n ho ur , add i ng eno ugh

v i negar from t i m e to t i m e to ma k e up for loss


b y e vaporat i on L et stan d for a week , th en
.

stra i n an d b ottl e A l i ttl e b urnt s ugar ( cara


.

m e l ) or soy may b e add e d to g i ve the sauc e a

b etter color .

F L AV O RING O R CO M P OUND B UTT E RS .

Flavor i ng b utt e rs are us e d for n um e r ous c ul i


n ary p urpo se s ; they wer e o ri g i nally i ntrod uced

fo r i mpart i ng a sp e c i ally des i r e d avor t o


sauc e s an d f or th i s p urp os e th ey ar e st i ll
,

largely us e d T h ey are also very c onven i ent


.

a n d us e f ul to s e rv e w i th gr i lled meat an d gr ill ed

sh , for san dw i ch es and t oasts T h e taste for .

h ors d o e uvr e and sav or i e s has i ncreased c on si d


-

e r abl y d ur i ng th e past f e w years Flavor i ng .

b utt e rs or b e urr e s c om p oses as they ar e term e d ,

i n ki tch en Fr e nch , hav e b e e n larg e ly i ntroduc e d


i n many oth er pr eparat i ons b e si des those abov e
nam ed T h e y are used und e r t he t i tles h ors
.

d o e uvre an d sav or i e s

T hey have also prov e d
.

em i n e ntly sat i sfactory wh en us e d f or sauc es,



i e
. . compo und sauc e s
,
.

Flav or i ng b utt e r i s add e d to sauces at th e last


m om e nt b e f or e b e i ng s erv e d , t he O bj ect b e i n g

co g i v e a sauc e t he r e qui si t e fr e sh b utter av o r -

,
w h i ch i s d e e m e d mo st e ssent i al t o a w e ll p r e
p ar e d sa uc e as i t i mparts
,
at t he sam e t i m e the

a p p r op r i at e and d i st i nct i ve aroma O f the cond i


T HE B OO K OF S A UCE S 117

ment fro m wh i ch the b utt e r O btai ns i t s nam e .

M ost co ok s a r e awar e that b e s i d e s the use of


these b utt e rs f or sa uc e s th e r e a r e many other
ways i n wh i c h th e y can b e e mpl oy e d for th e y ,

ar e e m i n e ntly s ui table for all kin d s of sand


w i ch e s an d for da i nty savory cr ot e s ; t he add i
,

t i on O f a n i cely bl e nd e d b utter mak e s a w on


de r f ul i mpr ovem e nt both i n appearanc e an d
av or t o such d i sh e s S ev e ral of th e se b utters
.

w ill be f ound e xc e ll e nt w i th cold gam e c old ,

d uc k, cold b e e f or m utt on ; oth e r s may be use d


f or spread i ng toa sts b isc ui t s etc
,
F or d e c o ,
.


rat i ng l i tt l e c old hor s d o e uvre and savor i es
-

th e s e b utters are e xceed i ngly us e ful as they e n ,

hanc e the app e aranc e of many s uc h d i sh e s .

T a k e th e h umbl e ma i tr e d hOt e l b utt e r a s an

exampl e , and y ou w ill have som e i dea of t he


many p urpos e s f or wh i ch av or i ng b utt e rs can
be used .

T he follow i ng r ec i pes compr i s e t he m ost p op


ular and m ost us e ful av or i ng b utt e r s E ach .

on e posses s e s all t he e sse nt i als Of an ap p e t i z i ng ,

tasty , an d well s e asoned comp ound .

An cho vy B utte r ( B eur r e d A n choi s)


: I n gr e di
e nt s : S i x G org ona anchov i e s t w o o un c e s and ,

a half of b utt e r an d half a l e mon


,
M eth od : .

S oa k t he anchov i e s i n c old wat e r dra i n tak e , ,

o ut t he bon e s w ipe dry w i th a cl oth p ound i n


, ,

a mortar wi th t he b utt e r add the j ui ce of a ,

l e m on r ub thro ugh a ne si ev e , sp r ead o n a


,

plate , put On the i ce , an d use as d i rect e d .

Chut n ey B utte r ( B eu rr e a l a M adr as) : In


g r e di e n t s : Fo u r o unc e s Of M ang o c h utn e y ,
1
tabl e sp oonf ul of Fr e n c h m ustard 6 t o 8 o unc e s ,

of fr e sh b utter and l e mon juice


,
M eth o d : .

P oun d the ch utn e y i n a m ortar add th e French ,

m ustard , and w or k i n th e fr e sh b utt e r seas on ,

to ta st e and add a f e w drops of lem on j ui c e


, .

Rub thr ough a ha i r s i eve place i t on the i ce , ,

and use as re qui r e d .

De vi ll ed
B utte r ( B eu rr e a l a D i able ) : 1 % oz .

b utt e r, t e aspoonful cayenn e p e pper 1 salt ,

sp oonf ul bl ac k p e pp e r c urry p ow d e r gr ound


, ,

gin g e r M i x th e b utter w i th t he cay e nn e p e p


.

p er, b lac k p e pper a p i nch of c urry powd e r, a n d


,
1 3 8 T HE B OO K OF S A UCE S
a p i nch of
gr ound g i ng e r S pr e ad on a plate ,
.

a n d use f or gr i lled c ut l e ts , ch ops , e t c .

M i n t B utte r : T ak e 1 oz b utt e r , perfectly .

fre sh ( un salt e d ) and m i x w i th 2 t e a spoonf uls of


n e ly chopp e d gre e n m i nt , add als o a f e w dr ops
of l e mon j ui ce, and bl e n d th i s well w i th th e
b utter .

N ote : B es i des b e i ng useful to i mpart m i nt


avor to c e rta i n sa uc e s , m i nt b utt e r i s d e l i c i ous
for spread i ng th i n sl i ces of br e ad, wh en a
da i nty sandw i ch made of m i nc ed lamb i s de
s ir e d .

Pim i e n to B utte r : Dra i n a Span i sh p i m i ento ,


c ut i t up small , an d p ound i t t i l l sm ooth i n a

m ortar w i th 4 6 O z of fr e sh b utt e r an d a l i ttl e


-
.

l e m on j ui c e , th en r ub thro ugh a n e s i eve an d


-

s eason to taste .

H o r se Ra di sh B utte r ( B eurr e de R ai f o r t ) :
-

st i c k h orserad i sh 4 oz b utt e r , 1 tea spo onful


, .

ch ill i v i n e gar , 1 teasp oonf ul l e mon j ui ce Wash -


.

th e hors e rad i sh scrap e O E th e o ut e r s ki n , and


-

grat e nely w i th wh i t e part M i x wi th th e .

b utt e r th e ch i ll i v i n e gar , and l e mon j ui c e a n d


,
-

season w i th pepp e r and salt Rub thro ugh a .

ne s i eve , spr e ad on a plat e an d put O n th e i ce , .

Cut i nt o d i am ond shapes or l i ttl e ro unds an d ,

s erv e w i th gr ill e d ll e ts of b e e f ( t ournedos ) or


steak s .

T o m ato B utte r ( B eu rr e au T o m at e ) : P eel


and fre e from m o i st ur e 3 small r i p e t omat oe s ,

p oun d th em i n a m ortar w i th the sam e we i ght


of b utt e r , th e n co ok q ui c k ly ov e r t he r e sea ,

son w i th salt and p e pp e r, an d r ub thr ough a


ne s i eve or tammy .

S p an i s h B utte r ( B eu r r e E s p agn ol ) : 2 oz .

l ean ham 2 tabl e spo onfuls e spagn ol e sa uc e, 6 oz


, .

fresh b utt e r , n utm e g P o un d the ham i n a


.

m orta r t ill sm ooth , then add the well r educ e d


e spagnole sauc e ; i nc orporat e by d e gr e e s t he
b utt e r , s eason to ta st e w i th p epp e r and nely
grat e d n utmeg an d r ub thro ugh a ha i r s i ev e
, .

K eep on the i c e t i ll want e d .

Be u rr e M ai t r e d HOt el or P a rsley B utte r : 1


oz fr e sh b utt e r
. 1 t e a sp oonful ch opp e d par sl e y ,
,

1 salt sp oonful of ch opped m i xed tarragon an d


T HE B OO K OF SA UCE S 119

ch erv il , 1 t e asp oonful l e m on j ui ce M i x th e -


.

b utter wi th t he parsl e y, tarragon , ch e rvi l ,


l e mon j ui ce , a p i nch of sal t an d p e pp e r S pr e ad
-
.

on a p l ate ut o n t he i ce , and shap e i nto pats


p ,

wh en qui te rm .

Wat e r cre ss B utter ( B eur r e de Rui sse au ) : In


gr e di e n ts : Wat e rcr e ss fre sh b utter wh i
,
t e pep ,

p e r
,
and salt M eth od
. : Pi c k the l e aves of the

re qui red quant i ty of watercre ss dry th e m i n a ,

cloth and m i nc e them as ne a s p oss i ble th en


, ,

k n ead th e m wi th as m uch fre sh b utter as they


w ill tak e up add i ng a very l i ttle sa l t and wh i te
,

pep p er . Put t he m i xt ur e th us obta in e d O n a


p lat e spr e ad i t out ev e nly and plac e on the i ce
, ,
.

S t amp out som e l i ttle r o unds and s e rve i n a glass


d i sh , or use for other p urpo ses as de sc r ibed .

Ham B utt e r ( B eur r e au J am bo n ) : I n gr e di


ents : F our ounce s of c ook e d l e an ham , 2 o un c e s
of fresh b utt e r , on e tabl e sp oonf ul of d oubl e
cream , salt , and cay e nne M e th od : P oun d t he .

nely ch opped l e an ham , add th e b utt e r and


doubl e c re am ; season to tas te wi th white peppe r an d
cay e nn e P a ss thr ough a ne s i e v e , put i t on
.

th e i c e, and use as re qui red .

Lob ste r B utte r ( B eu rr e de H o m ar d) : I n gr e di


ents : Lobster spawn an d coral and fr e sh but
ter . M e thod : P r oc ur e the egg s ( spawn ) an d
coral O f a l ob st e r p oun d t i ll smo oth i n a mor
,

ta r w i th d ouble i ts quant i ty O f fr e sh b utt e r ,


r ub thr ough a n e s i e v e , an d k eep i n a c ool
p lac e t ill r e qui r e d .

M o n t pelli e r B utte r ( B eu rr e M o n t pelli e r ) : I n


gr e di e n t s : T wo o u nc e s of parsl ey ch e rv i l ,
tar ,

rag on, chi v e s a n d c r e ss ; 2 an c h o v i e s , 9 yol k s


,
'

of hard bo i l e d e ggs
-
3 ounc e s of b utt e r 1 t e a
, ,

spo onf ul Of cap e r s an d 1 gher ki n ,


M e th od : .

Wash an d p i c k t he par sl e y , cr e ss an d h erbs ;


blanch for thr e e m i n ut e s stra i n an d c ool , , .

Dra i n w e ll i n a cl oth and p ound i n a m orta r .

P ut th i s on a plat e an d c l e an t he m ortar W i pe .

and b on e t he an ch ov i e s ; p oun d th e m i n a m or c

tar wi th th e e gg y o l k s cap e rs an d gh e r kin s , ,


.

Wh en q ui te sm ooth add the b utt e r la stly t he ,

gr e e n p ur e M i x t he wh ole w e ll t og e th er .

Put thr ough a w i re s i ev e , an d use as r e qui red .


1 20 T HE B OO K OF S AUCE S
A l i ttl e sp i na c h gr e e n i ng m ayb e added i f th e "
he rb s sho uld not col or t he b utter s ufc i ently .

P ap r i k a B utte r ( B eurr e au P apri k a ) : I n


g r e di e n t s : Fo ur o unc e s of fresh b utter and 1
t ea sp oonf ul Of papr ik a ( H ungar i an p e pp e r ) .

M e tho d : P ut t he papr ik a on a clea n plat e w i th


t he b utter an d m i x i t t o a sm ooth paste , th e n
,

p u t i t on i c e or i n a c o ol place an d use wh en
r e q ui r ed .

Ravi got e or G r e e n H e r b B utt e r ( B eurr e


,
.

R a vi gote ) : Ingred i e nts : 1 % oz s ch erv i l 2 o zs .


,
.

O f sp i nach , 1 % ozs of gr e e n ch i ves , 1 oz of


. .

t arrag on ,
oz of parsl e y , 3 or 4 shallots
. 6% ,

o z s O f b utter , p epper , and sal t


. M e th o d : Wash .

a n d p i c k th e ch erv i l , sp i nach , gr e e n ch i v e s , tar

r agon , an d parsley P ut i t i n a sauce pan w i th


.
-

wat e r an d blan ch Dra i n well an d po un d i n a


.

m ortar . P eel 3 or 4 shallots , chop n e ly, c oo k


t h em i n a l i ttle b utter un ti l O f a golden c ol or ,
a n d p ut w i th t he h e rbs ; wor k i n 6 ozs of but .

t er , r ub th r ough a n e s i e ve , add a l i ttl e p e pp e r


an d salt an d sp i nach green i ng i f n ecessary T h e .

b utter i s th en r eady f or use .

S h ri m p or Cr ay sh
B utt er ( B eu rr e d E cr e

v i sse s) : Ingred i e nts : p i nt of p i c k ed shr i mps


o r prawns , 3 oz s of fresh b utter , and
. oz of .

a n ch ovy paste M eth o d :


. P o und the p i c k e d
shr i mps or prawn s i n a m ortar t i ll sm ooth , add
th e fre sh b utt e r , an d anch ovy paste ; m i x th or
o ughly an d r ub thr ough a ne s i eve K e ep on .

th e i c e t i ll want e d A l i ttl e l iqui d carm i n e or


.

c och i n eal m ay b e adde d to color i f fo un d usees


s ary .
8
8
8
3
5
O O O O O O O O O3 i 8
1 01

s
s
s
s
:

B rown m 5
w
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
.

B rown m oe n

n
O O O O O O O O O O O O O O o a
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 01
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

1 08
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 20
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 18
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 18
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 10
8

:
t
i

8
8
1 22 T HE B OO K OF S A UCE S
C aram el sauce 1 01 Cream aspic , 0 0 0 .

C ar dinal sauc e c old horsera dish


g
44 em ,

Car din ale m ayonnaise a la


, 95
2 7 Cr eam auc e s 49
Catsup c hutn ey (cucum ber)
, . . 1 10 C am
re sauc e b an an a , 1 01
C atsup C um berlan d m ushroom
, , , Cream sa uc e cel e y , r 45
tom ato walnut , 111 Cream sa vory 49
Ca Cream sauc e tom ato , 86
C eri c rem e de
, 45 Cream sa uc e tarra gon , 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 14
0 0

C eler y cr eam sauce 45 Cream ed butter sauce 43


C eler y sa uc e 36
C ham p ag n e sauce 45 . Cr em e a l aspic
O O O O O O O O O O O O O O 49
O O

C h am pi g n ons sauce blan che 45 . . C em e de c eleri


r 45
C ham p ig nons sauc e brun e 45 , C em e de Rai fort froid
r , 61
C hasseur sauce (Royal ) 46 Crem e sauce a la
,
49
C hateaubri an d sauce 46 C em e a la tom ate sauc
r 86
C haudeau sauc e 1 02 C em euse sauc e beurr e
r , 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 43
0 0

C haudfroids 16 Crevettes sauc e aux , . 82


C haudf oid sauc e
r blan che , , Croutes swee t sauces for
, 1 00
bl on de brown (brune) fa wn
, , , Cucum ber catsup O O O O O O O O O O O O 1 10
O O

green pin k whi te


, , 47 Cucum ber sauce hot c old , , 49 5 0
C ha udfroi d sauce sweet 1 07 , Cum berlan d catsup 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 111
0 0

C haude sa uc e au con com bres 5 0 x . . Cum ber lan d sauc e . 50 95 ,

Chaude sauc e raifort , 61


C haud sauce ravig ote . 79 .

C herry sauce 98 1 2
3 ,

ce 51
C hestnut sauce 47 cc 1 03
C hestn ut sauce (savory) (sweet) 48 . Cutlets , reform s, s auce for 79
C hevreuil sauce 48
C hicken assence 32 Dam auce so~t s .

Chicken hot sauce for fried


, 78 Dan ish ( Dan oise) sauce 51
C hoc olate sauc e ( c ol d) 1 02 Dem i g lace sauce
-
51
C hopp ed p arsl ey 32 Dem i p ove cale sauce
-
r n 78
C hut ee sauc e tom ato
n 115, D evi ll ed butter (beurre) 1 17
C hutn ey butter 1 17; catsup 1 10 , . Devi l ed sauce 52
C hutney sauc e Diab le sauce (9 la)
, 5 2 95 . ,

Distin c tion bet ween gr avies an d


C itr on sauce au
, 63
C laret sauce 1 03 Dressing salad (S panish)
,
113
C l oves 20 Duch esse sauce 52
C offee sauc e 1 03
Col bert sauc e aux n es herbes 48 . Dutc h sauce 5 8 59 ; green , 60 ,

C ol d b atarde sauce 37
C ol d B ulg arian sauce 42
3old C am bri dg e sauc e 44 E chalote auce s 52
Col d c h oc olate sauc e 1 02 Ec revisses beurre d ,

1 20
J old cucum ber sauc e 49 E crevisses sauce (aux) , 52
Col d am e sauc e 50 88
Col d orseradish c ream 61
C ol d puddin gs sweet sauces for 1 00 , .
1 12
C ol d ra otte sauce 79
C ol d sal sauces 16
Col d sauc es 15 Esp agn ol e vs brown sauc e . . 11
C ol d strawberry sauc e 1 08 Esp agn ol e sauce
C ol d S wedish Sauc e 84 Essen c e c hicken ,
32
C ol d sweet sauces 16 Essen c e de Gibier sauce 54
C offee custar d sauc e 1 03 Essen c e to m ake
,

C om poun d butters 116


C om p oun d sauc es 34 Essen ce de volaill e 32
C onc om bres c haude sauce aux 50
, .
54
C on c om br es sauce aux , 49 .

Cond im en t see ( ta ble) .


9
54
Corn our sauce a c haudfroid sauce
;
1 08 F wn 4
Crab sauce
. 5 0, 9 8 54
46 54
54
36 65
T HE BO K O OF SA UCES 1 23

Hollandaise sauca inexpensi ve

94
42 so
56 Hom ard, B eurre de , 1 1 9 ; s auce . . 64
91
34
30 Horseradish cream , cold 61
54
116 Horser adish sauce (hot) (i ced ) 61
17 Hot batard e sauce 37
Hot cucum be sauce '

Hot plain sauces 15


Hot puddi n gs sweet sauces for , 1 00
Fra p , Raifort sauce 61 Hot ravigote sauce 79
F 78 Hot sauce for fr ied chi cken 0 0 0 0 0 78
Hot sauces ( list ) 15
Froi d crem e de r ifor a t . Hot 83 16
Hot 1 08
Hot sauce 84
16
Fruit t im bal es sweet sauces fo , r .. 1 00 74
Fum e t l l ; Of gam e (dc gibier )
, . 31 61

G am e sauce 55 ; col d 50
G G am e savory sauces,
, .

Gam e fum et of
,

i a c
In d enne s u e 62; rem ou lade . . 96
Inexpens ve ho i s u a ce . 59
Italian (I tali
enne ) sau e c

Gibier sauce , 55 ; m en e c de

62
32
57
74

Gravies and s auces di stm tion Ki tch relish sauces for


'

, c . . 109
6 Kn ead butter liaison 9
63
57
47
Green Dutch sauce 60
Green h erb sauce 87; butter , . . 1 20

Green m li auce 5 7, Liaison butter cr eam 8


g
ousse ne s ; , , , egg, roux .

57
Grosei lles vertes , sauce aux i
5 6 L queur s auce 1 05

32 64
58 t
Lo bs er s uce, 64; a butter 1 19
51 Long pep per 22
119 a
Ly onn i se s uce a 64
Ham s auce 58
21

M adras beurre a la 1 1 7;

48 , , sauce l 2 .

8
65
Herb sauce tarragon Maitre d hotel beurre
a c
8?
, 1 14 , 1 1 8; s ue 6

Hin ts on stock m akin g 29 65


1 05
66
1 24 T HE B O K OF O SA UCE S
M P ain sauc e eu 40
M yidd
g l ery
r na e
P ,

Paprika butter (beurre)


.

. 1 20

25
M arm alade sauce 1 05
M arseillaise sauce 67 Parsley butter 1 18
Matelotesauce (blan ch e) (brun e) . 67 Parsley chopped
, 32
M am m 1 han sauce
'

. Parsley sauce 65 7 5 ,

Pauvre homm e sau ce 77


M ayonn aise aspic , 36 Pekoe sauce 75
M ayonna ise c a c ar din ale
, , Pepper c ayenne long mignon
, , ,

gelee trufe ortugai se


, , 95 et te 22
M ayonn ai se ne herbes gree , , n, Pepper Krona
,
23
94 Pepper or salt pin ch 23 ,

e per sau ce 77
g
93 p 9 6 ,

tom atee 69 en ueux sau ce 7 5


.
g
31 Persh ach e 32
32 P ersi l sauce 75
34

11 08
.

M elted butter sauce ,

Men the sauce a la


,
69 Pi nk c h audfroi d sauce 47
Mign on ette pepper 22
M in t 25 ; butter 1 1 8; sauc e 69
Mir abeau sauce
, .

70
Pla in sauces hot , . 15
70 Plan ts arom atic
, . 23
M ll de boeuf sauce
oe e 38 , 42
M oka pudding sauce 1 05 Poivrade sauce 77
M on t pell ier butter ( buerre) 1 19 Polish sau ce 77
M orn ay sauce . 70 77
M oules sauce aux
, 72 Pompadour sau ce 77
M ousseli e sauce green
n 5 7 71 , , Poor man s sauce
77
Mousselin e sauce sweet Portug aise m ayonnaase a la '

1 08 , ,

M oussel in e sauce verte 5 7 71 ,

M ousselin e sauce whi te 70 , Poul 77


M outarde sauce 71 Poultry savory sau ces fo r
Mushroom catsu 111
,

;
g
Mushroom s to c op ,
32 30
Mushroom sauce (brown ) (whi te) 45 78
Prin ce of Wal es sauce
.

78
M ustard 2 1 ; sauce , 71 78
78
Puddin g sauce M ok a , 1 05
Puddings sweet sauces , for
Nic oise sauce 72 (col d ) (hot) 1 00
Punc h syr up 1 06
Non parei ll e sauce 72

Raifor t beurre de
Nutm eg 20 R Raifort crem e de froid ,

, , .
118
61
Raifort sauce chaude (frappee) ,
. 61
99
Oeufs an ch ois sauce aux
, , . 36
Oeufs sauce aux , 72 Rasp sauc e 1 07
Oign ons sauce aux 73 Ravi gote butter (beurre)
6%
, 12
On ions 26
Om o to cho 32 Ram ote s auce c
. 73 , 1 1 3
Oporto sauce 99 30
Or an g e sauce . . 73 , 9 8, 1 06 15
Red win e ra isin s u e a c 1 00
swee t 1 08

cc 74 Reg en t eg en ce) sauce , 79


74 Re n e arie sauce
i
113
14 Rehsh sauces (ki tc hen) (tabl e) . . 1 09
THE B OO K O F S A U CE S 1 25

96
barb and banana sau ce 1 06 San

56 Sau ce bro wn
, ,

Sauce bro wn herb


,

80 Sauce bro wn mushroom


,

80 Sauce ,

Sauce ,

Roux blanc blond fawn whi te


, , , ,
. 7 Sauce ,

Roux brown (brun) ham on Sau ce


.

, . . .

Sauce ,

46
119 S au ce ,

au ce
Sau ce ,

, per brune
Sau ce , l
Sau ce ,

45
Al b a ny 35 1 09 u ce , 45
Sau ce (bl anch e)
45
of 14
almond cream ) 1 00
almond or frui
cc, 46
t 1 00 Sau ce chateaubn and . 46
Sau ce Ameri can (Am en cam .

)
e . 35 1 02
Sau ce anchois aux oeufs 36 Sau ce chaudfroid (b lanche ) 47
Sau ce anchovy ( anchors) Sau ce ch erry
, 98 , 1 02
Sau ce ,

97 Sau ce ,

1 01 Sau ce ,

36

36 Sau ce ,

36 Sauce coee ( cus tard)


, 1 03
1 10 Sau ce Colbert nes ba bes
, , 48
1 01 Sau ces cold , 15 1 6 -

rhu u ce 00
S
auce co %
37
1 06 ,

36 ,

Sau ce co ld Cambr idge


,

Sau ce ,
36 Sau ca co ld chaudf roids
, ,

Sau ce bearnaise brune tom atee


, , ,
38 Sau ce cold chocolate
,

cc becham el 1 1 13 .
, , 38 Sau ce co l d cu cumber
,

Sau ce bec hame l maigre whi te


, , , 38 Sau ce cold gam e
, 50
Sau ce cold ravigotte
, 73
39 Sauces co ld salad
, 16
39 Sau ce cold salmon
, 81
42 Sau ce col d strawber ry
, 1 08
Sau ce 43 Sau ce cold Swedish
,

Sauces colds weet


, .

Sauce ,
39 , 16
Sauce ,
39 Sau ces compound
,

Sau ce 39 Sau ce aux concom bers ch au de 49 50


, ,

Sau ce 90 Sauc condim en t (kitch en)


Sau ce , bl an uette 39 1 09
Sau ce , blon e chau dfroid 47 1 03
Sau ce , bo ar s h ead

61
Sau ce oh emian (B ohemi enne) O

, B 39
Sau ce , 39
Sauce , bonnefoy Sauce c raysh
, 52
Sauce , 40 Sauce
Sauce ,

Sau ce ,

40 Sauce Cumber land


, 50, 95
Sau ce , B re to n (B retonne) 41 S au ce curacoa
, 1 04

97 Sauce ,
1 26 THE B OO K OF S A U CE S

Sauces hot sweet 98 , , 1 5, 1 6


Sauce Danish (Danoise)
,
Sauce hot strawberry , 1 08
Sauce ho t Swedi sh , 84
Sauce ,
78 Sau ces ho w to tammy , 33
Sauce ,
5 2 Sau ce h ui tres ( aux ) 74
Sauce 9 5 Sauce hu re de s angl ier , 61
S au ce,
5 2 Sau ce i ced gr een ,

Sau ce ,
1 1 2 S au ce i ced horseradish , 61
Sauce , 5 8 59 Sau ce Indian c urry
.
, , 62
Sauce echalofe 5 2 S au ce Indi enne , 62
Sauce ecrevisse
,
5 2 S au ce Ita lian (Ita li enne ) , 62
S auce egg
, 72 Sauce Jamaic a , 1 04
Sauce empress 1 1 2 Sau ce ,

Sauce epicure (ep curienne) 5 2 5 3 Sauce


,

.
, ,

Sauce esp agnol e


, . 5 3 Sau ce ,

S auce esp agnole (vs brown so) 1 1 Sau ce


. .
,

Sau ce essence de gibi er


,
5 4 S au ce , 1 05
S au ce a l estragon

Sauce
g : Sau ce
,

Sauce fawn chaudfroid


,
47 S au ce ,

S auce fennel (fenouil) 54 Sau ce l obs ter , 64


Sauce fermi ers 54 Sau ce Lyonnaise , .

Sau ce n an ciere 54 S au ce ma deira (mad ere )


Sauce ne herb
,
65 Sau ce M adras , 1 12
Sauce sh
, 9 1 Sau ce
Sau ce Flemish (Flamande) 5 4 S au ce mai tre d ho tel ,

65
Sauce eurette 5 4 Sau ce making his tory o f , 3
Sau ce mal ag a ,

Sauces foundation
,
1 1 Sau ce M altise ,

9 7 S au ce marmala de , 1 05
5 5 S au ce mar aschino , 1 05
5 5 S au ce mar c hand de vi n , 66
Sau ce gane
, 5 6 S au ce 66
5 5 S au ce , 66
5 5 Sau ce 66
55 67
Sauce giblet
,
56 Sauce ma telo te bl anche brune
, , , . 67
Sauce , 88 68
Sau ce ,
57 Sauce mayonnaise 68
Sau ce good woman
, 39 69
Sau ce , . 5 6, 9 8 Sauce m el ted butter
, 69
Sau ces and gravi es distincti on , Sauce m el ted butter swee t
, , 1 08
Sauce mint (m enthe)
, 69
Sau ce mirabeau
, 7O
u ce green Dutch
,
60
uce m oe ll e d e boeuf 38
cc , een mousseline 5 7, 71 S auce M oka p udding
, 1 05
ri biche . 57 Sau ce M ornay
, 70
Sau ce aux moules 72
Sau ce ,
58 Sau ce mou tarde 71
Sauce ,
51 Sau ce mushroom brown whi te 45
, , , .

Sau ce , 58 m ussel 72
Sau ce ,
1 04
Sau ce Hessoise 58 Sauce mustard 71
Sau ce hollandaise (and in ex Sau ce Nantua
, 72
5 8- 59 uce Newcastle 1 12
60 cc Nico ise 72
60 Sau ce noisette 72
Sau ce homard
,
64 Sau ce n onpari ell e 72
Sauce Horly . 60 Sau ce Normande 72
60 Sau ce Norvegienn e 72
Sau ces ho t
,
15
Sau ce ho t batard e
, 37
Sauce hot c uc umber
,
50 aux oeufs (dur) 72
Sau ce ho t (fri ed c hicken)
, 78 Sauce aux oignons 73
Sauce ho t horseradish
, 61 Sau ce onion
, 73 1 1 3
,

Sauces hot list of


, , 15
Sauces ho t p lain
, ,
15 Sau ce orange
, 73 9 8 1 06
, ,

Sauce hot ravigo te


, 79
Sauces hot savory
, 16
THE B OO K OF S A U CE S 1 27

Sauces overcooking of
'

40
Sau ce ,
75 1 09
Sauce ,
75
Sau ce ,
65 , 75

Sauce pepper ,
77 96 , Sauces sw eet , 1 6, 1 00, 1 07
Sau ce 75 Sauce sweet chaudfroid
, 1 07
Sauce 75
Sau ce 75 Sau ce sweet lemon
, 1 07
Sau ce ,
47 Sauce sw eet melted butt er
, ,

Sauce piq uante


,
76
Sau ce , e 76
13, 1 5 Sau ce , tammy how to ,

Sau ce ,
Sau ce , tartare
S au ce Sau ce ,

Sauce tarragon cream (h erb) 114


Sau ce Sauce , Texas (Te r ianns) 85
S au ce , Sauce ,

Sau ce , Sau ce , toma to chutnee


Sau ce po ulette
, Sau ce , toma to cream
Sau ce ,
Sauce ,

Sau ce
a s
ea,
78 Sauce
rovencale 78 Sauce tu rtle 86
Sau ce g
, O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O O

uee n M ary
,
1 13 Sauce universal (universelle)
, 1 15
Sau ce Raifort chaude frappee uce
Sa
, , . 61 , 1 09
0 00,
Sau ce ,
1 07 Sau ce ,

Sau ce ,
96 Sauce ,

Sauce , 79 Sauces various kinds


,

Sau ce red wine rasin


,
1 00 Sau ce veloute
, 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 3, 8 6
Sauces reduc tion of
, Sauce v elv et
, 86
Sauce venison 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 48, 8 7
cc 79 Sau ce , 87
1 13 Sauce , 71
Sauces relish (kitchen) ( table)
, Sau ce , 87
Sauce remou lade
, 79 9 6 , 89
Sau ce remo ulade Indienne , 96 88
rhubarb and banana 1 06
%
8
3au ce, 8
ce ri ch brown sh 56 Sau ce , 90
Sau ce , 8f
Sauce , 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 1 04
0

Sau ces 13 1 6 ,

use Roman (Romaine) Sau ce , 90


Sau ce whi te bechamel
, 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 38
0

Sauce whi te chaudfroid


, 47
Sau ce Royal c hasseur
, 46 Sau ce , 91
Sau ce Sa uce , 70
06 Sau ce whi te mushroom
,
45
Sauce R ussian (Russe )
, 81 Sauce whi te sim ple
, , 90
Sauce , 88
au ce
Sauce , 1 09
1 6, 92 ,

1 6 34 Sauce
Sauce "
. . ,

48 avi er 91
Sauce "ankee
,

g am e . , 116
34
82
52 Saba on sauce 1 07
76, 82 sau ce almond for fruit
, , . . 1 00
Salad sauces 1 6,
13

188 82 81
81
1 28 T HE B OOK OF S A U CE S

19 Tom atee bea rnaise


sauce 38
t or pepper pin , 23
Savor y 25 47; jelly
, , . 34 Toma to bu tter (beurre) 1 18
Savory chestnut sauce 48 Toma to chutnee sauce 1 15
Savory cr eam 49 Toma to ca tsu p 111
Savory sauces 1 6, 34 Tomato cream sauce 86
whl o
h t 16
me , Tomato mayonnaise sauce 69
34 Tomato sau ce 85 , 1 14
Tomate sauce crem e a la
, 86
Tomato sau ce Soubise , 83
86
95
75
76 8 2 27
Shrimp butter 1 20 86
Shrim nn
p sau ce . 82
Si crhe e sau ce . 82 Univ ersal (universel l e ) sauce . 1 15

33 V Val an cia s auce 1 09


74 Valen tm e s auce 86
82
83
83 Vanilla sauc e 1 09
83
O O O O O O O O O O 1 18 . 1 3 , 86
0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 53 Velve t sauce
1 13 . 48, 8 7

22 V erte gl acee sauce 88


30 Verte sauce hollandaise
, 60
S toc k making hints on,
29 Verte sauce mousse line
,

St ocks preparations from


, 30 Vert r e sau ce . 87
Stoc k ro ux Vian e glace de
, . 31
29 V ic toria s auce . 89
S to re sauces 1 O9 97
S tragotte s auce 84 89
Strawberry sauce col d hot , , 1 08 88
Sugar 28 27
Suedoise sau ce ho t , . 88
Su l tana sau ce 99 Vo laill e essence de
, 32
S uprem e sauce
Swedish sau ce cold hot
Sw ee t lemon sauce
, 84
1 07
,
W Walnut c atsu p
Wargrave sauce
111
89
Sweet m elted bu tter sauce 1 08 Wa
S w ee t chau dfroid sauce 1 07
S wee t chestnut sauce 48
Sw ee t orange sauce 1 08 te chaudfroid sauce 47
Sw ee t mousseline sauce 1 08
Sw ee t sauces 1 6 1 00 , White mousse line sauce 70
Swee t sauce 1 07 Whi te mushroom sauce 45
Swee t sauces col d. 16 Whi te ro ux 7
Swee t sauces (forcroutes fritters , , White sauces 1 3, 1 6
fruit timbal es) 1 00 Whi te sauce simm e) 90
Swee t sauces hot , 15 1 6 , Whi te sauce ham el , 38
S w ee t sau ces for puddings hot , ,

1 00
Wine m erchant sauce 66

Tamarind sauce 99 Wine sauce 1 09


Tammy sau ces how to , 33 Wine sauce white . 88

Tartare sauce pi quante,

Tarragon cream and herb sauces .

14 116
85 "ork ("orkshire) 91
24
1 00 92
Ha
fo r Ho t e l , Re st aur an t , T r an spo r t at i o n
Cat e r i n g, I n st i tuti o n an d Cl ub U se


Ranhof er r ea n : T he k i n g of c ook b ooks i s The

s E pi c u
E p i c u r e an by Ch a rl e s Ra n ho fer o f D e l m o ni c o s T h i s

.
, ,

bo o k i s p a g es an d w e i g h s a b o u t t e n p o un d s I t 1 3
,
.

t he m o s t ex t e n s iv e t he m os t c o m p le t e th e m os t r e a d a b l e
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th e m os t a ttr a c t iv e an d th e b es t a ll a r o u n d co ok b oo k ,
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th a t ha s e v e r b e e n p u b l is h e d T h e r s t c h a p t e r 1 8 d e vo t e d .

t o t a b l e s e rvi c e w i th in s tr u c t i o n in m e nu m a k in g an d the
,
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c a r e an d s e rvi c e o f w in es the d ec o r a t i o n o f t he t a bl e t he , ,

xi n g o f th e s i d e b o a r d c o m p l e t e d inin g r o o m i n st r uc tl o n s
.

f o r th e se rvi c e of co u r se d inn e r s F r e n c h an d R uss i a n .

servi c e i s e p l ai n e d T h e re ar e l is t s o f c h ina g l a ss an d
x .
, ,

s il v e r e t c ; a ta b l e o f s u pp l i e s in w h i c h the F re n c h an d
, .

E n g l i s h nam es a r e g iv en a n d a m a r k e t l i s t T h e n fo ll o w s ,
.

1 44 p a g e s o f m e nu s f o r b r e a k f a s t s l u n c h e o n s dm n e r s , , ,

bue t o r s t an d in g s u pp e r s c o ll a ti o n s h un t in g p a rti e s

, , ,

g a r d e n p a rt i e s d an c in g p a rt i es et c A ll d i s h es in th es e
, , .

m e n us a e nu m b e r e d t o c o n fo r m w i th r e c i p e s fo r th e m in
r

t he b o d y o f th e b ook T h e r e i s a c h a p t e r on e l e m e n t a r y .

m e th o d s in w h i c h ev e n t he d ru dg e r y w o r k in the k i t c h e n
,

i s e x p l ain e d an d a ll t he w o r k d o n e by a pp r e n t i c e s in t he
,

e a rl y s t a g es o f h o t e l k i t c h e n w o r k T he c h a p t e r o n k i t c h e n .

ute n si ls i s v e r y f u l l e v e r y ut e n s i l i l l u s tr a t e d , Then c o m e .

th e r e ci p e s : 2 00 so up s 2 5 1 s au c e s 1 3 3 gar ni she 1 9 1 s i d e , ,

d i s h e s 1 01 s h e ll s h 2 1 8 s h 1 6 5 b ee f I 6S v ea 75 m ut
, , , ,

t o n 1 09 l am b 4 8 p o r k 2 2 4 p o u ltr y 1 6 3 a m e 1 9 8 m i sc e l
, , , , ,

l a n e o us e n tr ee s 2 6 7 sa l a d s 1 72 v e ge ta b es 1 00 e
, s 37 , , ,

f a ri na ceo u s f oo d s 2 3 3 s w ee t e n tr ees 1 70 c a k es 1 7 r ea d s
, , , ,

1 8 9 i c e s an d i c e d d ri n k s 9 0 c o n f ec t i o n e r y an d se v e r a l , ,

i ll u s tr a t i o n s o f c e n t e r p i e c es T h e r e i s a n e h a us t iv e c h a p te r . x

o n w in e s se v e r a l r ec i p es f o r m i x e d d r ink s an d 6 4 pa e s
, ,

d e v o t e d t o a c o ll e c t i o n of D e l m o ni c o m e n u s T h e i n ex .

o c c u pi es 44 d o ub l e co l um n p a ge s T h e re a re m o r e th an -
.

8 00 i ll u s tr a t i o n s A m o s t e ce ll en t f e a t u r e of T h e E p i
. x

c u ea n i s th a t e v e r y r e c i pe in i t a ea s un d e r a g o od
h o n es t E n l i s h na m e al o n g s i d e of w gCll i s th e tr an s l a t i o n
p
r r

, 1

o f i t in t o r e n c h I t i s b e au t i f u l l y b o u n d in Ke r a t ol L e va n t
.

g r ain e m b o s se d in g o l d Pr i c e
,
.

a a
The E dgew t e r B e c h Ho t e l S al d B ook ( S hir c l i e ) Co n a .

t ain s m o
r e th an
6 00 t t d es e re c i s
p e fo r l d d sa a s an s a a
l d
dr ess in s
g M r S hi r c lie h . t a s n o o n y iv n e c i s
l g e th re p e ,
.

b u t in m any c a ses h a s s u p p l e m en t e d th e m w i th a utho r s

n o t es c a ll in g a tt e n t i o n t o s p ec ia l h ea lth g ivin g fe a tu r e s
,
-
,

an d s u g g es t in g d i e t s f o r the d i ff e r en t a i l m e n t s tha t a f i c t
h u man s H e a l so t a kes o p p o rt uni t y t o p r e a c h m any a
.

s h o rt s e r m o n o n th e i m p o rt an c e o f r i g h t e a t in g an d w h a t
s b es t f o r h e a lth f o m t he c r a d l e t o o l d a ge H e a l so
i r .

i n t e r s p e r se s m u c h o f h u man in t e r e s t in t he w ay o f an c e
d o t e l e g e n d an d h i s t o r i c ev e n t s I n th i s w ay i t i s m o re
th an a c oo k b ook i t i s r e a d a b l e t o th o se w h o a r e n o t so
, .

m u c h in t e r e s t e d in h o w t o m a k e s a l a d s a s in th e e n j o y
m e n t o f th e m T h e gr e a t c h a r m of t he b oo k i s th e i ll u s t ra
.

ti o n s w h i c h a r e fr o m d i r e c t p h o t o g r a p h s in th e na t u r a l
,

c olors s o th a t the d i s h e s i ll u s tr a t e d h av e t he e y e a pp e a l
,
-
a n d the en t icin g q u al i t ies of t he r e al d i sh It i s a b oo k

.

that ts in to e v e r y k i t c h en ho m e h ote l c l u b h o sp i tal , , , ,

r e sta u ra n t l u n c h room c af et e r i a st e am shi p d inin g c ar


i n d u str i al ca t e r in g pla n t in st i t u t i o n army m e ss i n fa c t
, , , , ,

, , ,

w h e r ev e r in formati o n i s d e s i r ed a s to th e w h y a n d h ow t o
pr e par e for th e tabl e Pr ice .

S a l a d Por t f ol i o s e t of b e a u t i f u l i ll u stra
( S hi r c li e ) . A
t i o n s of salad s t a k en from t he E dg e wat e r B ea ch S alad
B o o k T h e y ar e mo u n t e d o n he avy gr een c ov e r sto c k
.
,

1 1 x 1 6 i nche s e a ch show in g th r ee o r fo u r of t he s alad s


,

a n d ar e s u i tabl e for fram in g T he p ort fol i o may b e u s e d .

b y the mai tr e d h ot e l t o ass i st hi m in se ll in g party m en u s



.

T he i ll u strat i o n s ar e s o n at u ral a n d app e t izin g that t he y


ma k e stro n g app eal to patro n s wh en s el ec t in g t he salad
c o u rs e fo r sp eci al m en u s A lso t he s e p ic t u r e s s e rv e a s a .

gu i d e to pa n try g i rls s h ow in g t hem ho w th e ni shed sal ad,

s h o u ld loo k Pr ice .

T he E dg ew a t e r S a n dwi ch B ook S u ppl em en t ed


w i t h c hapt e rs o n h ors d o e u vr e s s u pr e m e s c a n ap e s a n d
, ,

r el i s he s M or e th a n 6 00 r eci p e s T hi s b oo k i s b y t he a u thor
. .

of th e E d e w at e r S alad B oo k the most importan t c u l in ar y ,

b oo k p ro uc ed in r ecen t y e ar s T he r e ar e thi rty i ll u stra .

t i o n s of sa n dw ic h e s a n d h ors d o e u vr e s I t w i ll m ee t th e
.

r e ui r em e n t s of all k in ds of r e fr e shm en t pla ce s from t he


sog a fo u n ta i n to l u nch room t e a roo m an d hi gh c lass ,
-

r e stau ra n t B o u n d in c o n v enien t po c k e t s ize Pr ice


. . .

The Hote l S t F ran ci s Coo k B ook ( H i r t zl e r ) T he a u t h or


. .

w a s che f o f H ot e l S t Fran ci s S a n F ra nci s c o A dapt e d for


.
, .

ho t el s r e sta u ra n ts c l u b s c o ff ee rooms fam i l ie s a n d ev ery


, , , ,

p la ce w he r e hi g h c l ass w h ol e som e c u i s ine-


i s d e si r e d
, T hi s .

i s t he m os t im porta n t cu l in ary boo k t h at ha s c om e from


a n y pr e s s in th e la st tw en ty fi v e y e ars M r Hi rt zl e r i s -
. .

k n ow n t h r u o u t Eu ro p e a n d A m e ri c a a s o ne of th e abl e st
c h efs of t he da y H e mad e t he c u i s ine of th e H ot e l S t
. .

F ra nci s world famo u s A f e at u r e of t he H ot e l S t F ra nci s


-
. .

C oo k B oo k th at w i ll b e a p pr eci at e d b y t h o u sa n d s o f h o te l
p e opl e c at e r e rs fam i l ie s a n d all in t e r e ste d in h om e e c o
, ,

n om ic s i s the s el ec t i o n a n d pr e pa r at i o n of foods in s e a
,

so n ; the pr e s en tat i o n of b r e a k fa st l u nche o n a n d d inner


m en u s for ev e r day i n t he y e a r t he s el ec t i o n s appro
,
~

ri at e a n d all i s he s a c t u ally pr e par e d a n d se rv e d in t he


,

o tel S t Fra nci s T hi s f e at u r e of th e boo k g iv e s a sugge s


. .

t i v e q u al i ty a r em in d e r attr i b u t e a n d a k n owl e dg e of food


, ,

ec o n om ie s a n d foo d attr i b u t e s t h at i s he r e by b ro u ght to


t he a i d of th e p ro ci en t a n d th e l e arne r al so en abl e s ev en ,

th e ine x pe r ience d to prod u ce th e w ell bala nce d m en u T h e -


.

H ot e l S t F ra nci s Coo k B oo k i s in d ex e d a n d c ross in d e x ed


.

so that e v e ry r eci p e c a n b e r e f e rr e d to o n th e in sta n t .

Pr ice

A S e l e ct i on of D i she s an d T he Che f s Re m i n de r ( Ch a s

.

Fe llows ) T he boo k that h as m e t w i th t he larg e st sal e an d


.

i s in most d e ma n d from ma n age r s st ewards a n d c oo k s I s , .

in v e st p o c k e t form 2 2 0 pag e s T he most c ompl e t e a n d , .

se rv ice abl e po c k e t r e f e r ence boo k to c u l in a ry matt e rs that


h a s ev e r b een p u bl i s he d I t i s n ot a c oo k boo k in the ge n .
,

eral s en s e of th e word b u t i s f u ll of i d e as a n d s u g e sti o n s


,

r e gard in g b i ll o f fa re d i she s Chapt e rs ar e d evot e to en


- -
.

tr ee s o f all k in ds salads s o u p s c on somm e s sh a n d thei r


, , , ,

sa u ce s sa u ce s in gene ral gar ni s he s fa nc y potato e s m i sc el


.

, , , ,

l an e o us r eci p e s hin t s to c oo k s a n d st eward s s u gg e st i o n s


, ,

for b r e a k fa st l u nch a n d s u pp e r d i s he s c h a n g d S h co o k
, ,
I

e ry m en u s a n d a pro n o u ncin g gl ossary o f c ul n a y t e rm s


, ,
i r .

Hu n dr e d s of the d i s h e s l i st e d ar e gl ven w i th th e i r b i ll of
o

2
far e nam e s o n ly a s the c oo k s u n d e rsta n d the bas ic wor k
,

in pr e pa r i n g d i s he s a n d th e sa u ce s an d gar dn i she s ar e ,

tr eat e d s e pa rate ly w i t h in fo rm at i o n as to th ei r co mpo nen t


,

parts T ho u sa n d s of m en w h o poss e ss a c op of th i s boo k


.

say i t i s th ei r gr e at e st h e lp P r i n t e d o n bo n pap er bo u n d .
,

in e x i bl e co v e r P ric e .

The Cul i n a ry Han dbook ( Ch as Fe llows ) P r e s en t s i n . .

c o nci se form i n format io n re gard in g th e pr eparati o n a n d


s e rv ice of nearly d i ff er en t b i ll o i far e d i sh e s ; also - -

v e s m u ch in format i o n of enc y c lope d ic n at u re r e gar di n


'

o ods of all k in ds Qu ic k r e f e r ence to ev e ry d i sh p r e sc r i b


.

i s fa ci l i tat e d w i th a n i n d e x o f 3 9 c ol u m n s arra n g ed in
a 1 ha be t i c a l ord er a n d c ro ss in d e x e d so that n o matte r
wh
, ,

at o ne i s loo k in g for all he has to do i s t o n d the ,

ini t ial l ett e r a n d u n d e r i t i a alp h ab e t ic al ord e r fo r sec , ,

o n d th i rd a n d fo u rth l e tt e rs et c th e artic l e wa n t ed w i t h
, ,
.
, ,

pag e o n wh ich i t i s fou n d Re fe rr in g for in stance, to a .


,

sa u ce of a n y part i cu lar k in d F in d th e word S a u ce i n t he .

i n d e x a n d u n d e r i t w i ll b e fo un d in al p hab e t ic al ord e r 1 4 9
,

d i ff e ren t sa u ce s ; a n d u n d e r S alad s 71 d iffer en t kin ds , ,

e x c l u s i v e of th e var i at io n s in ma k in g U n d e r h e ad of S au .

sag e th e r e ar e 4 5 d iff e r en t k in d s d e sc ri b ed w i th d i r ec ti o n s ,

for ma k in g a s w e ll as co o k in g a n d se rv in g I n fa c t th e .
,

sa u sag e in format i o n in t hi s boo k i s mor e c ompl e t e t h a n in


an y ot he r p u b l i s h e d 1 9 0 pag e s ; 7x 1 0 i nche s . .

Fe l lo ws a k er i s the last of t he succe ssf u l r ead



M en u M
r e f er ence b oo k s c omp i l e d b y Cha s F e llow s a ut h or of .
,

S el ec ti o n of D i s he s a n d T he Che f s Rem i n d e r a n d T he


Cu l in ary H a n dboo k I n th i s boo k M r F e llow s h a s c om . .

p i l e d in c o nci s e form t h o u sa n d s of s u gge st i o n s for dai ly


c ha n g e s o n th e b i ll s o f fa r e bot h A m e ri c a n a n d Eu rop ea n - o

pla n for br e ak fast l u nche o n a n d d inne r ca rd s a n d so ar


, , ,

ra n g e d as to gi v e pop u lar c ha n g e s from day to day to v e '

a cce tabl e var ie ty T h e se c ha n g e s inc l u d e so u ps sh.


, ,

bo il e s en tr ee s ro asts a n d sp ec i als I n th e i r pr e s en tati o n


, , .

he starts w i t h typ ic al b i lls o f fa r e a n d the c ha n ge s ar e - ~


,

s u c h as m i ght b e mad e in th e s e b i ll s from


day to day .

A l so he h as p r es en t e d a c hapt e r e n t i tl ed S u gg e st i o ns fo r
Sp eci als for th e D a y in wh ich the di sh e s ar e priced a n d ,

un d e rl ine d w i t h br ie f i n format i o n r e gard in g th ei r c ompo si


t i o n A lso h e s u bm i ts s ev eral sampl e m en u s fo r busm es s
.
,

l u nche s ba nq u ets a n d small arty d inne r s a n d o n e v e ry


s e rv ice abl e f e at u r e of the bo ok i s a l i st of t he most po p
, , ,

u lar d i sh e s as so u ps sh b o i l ed m e at s roast s a n d
, , , , ,

e n tr ee s T h e b oo k i s su p le m e n t e d w i th 1 1 0 pag e s o f sam
.

pl e m en u s a n d b il l s o i ar e se v e ral of t he m ) ho t o gr ap hi c
r eprod u c t i o n s a n d r e pr es en t i ng t he c ard s of h ot e ls a n d
-
,

r e sta ur a n t s o f b ot h rst a n d s ec o n d c lass l u nch roo ms , ,

tra n spo rt at i o n c at e r in g m en u s c l u b m en u s w i ne li s , ,

cat e r e r s l i st a n d s ev e ral i ll u strat i o n s of glass, c h in a an



,

s i lv e rwar e s a n d ba n qu e t s cen e s T h e boo k i s in d ex ed ; .

o n ne q ual i ty pa p e r ; page 7x 1 0 inc h e s cl oth


1p
i ,

or unntd
e d Pr i ce .

Claren bach s Ho t e l A ccoun t i ng I n wr i t in g t h is b oo k i t



.

w as M r Cl ar e n ba c h s p u rpos to

e o u tl ine a sim le syst em
of ho t e l a cc o u n t in g that wo u ld m ee t th e need s oft he a ve r
.

a e h ot el s part i c u l ar ] of h ot e l s from 5 0 to 2 00 room s


, .

i s rst boo k wa s u li she d in 1 9 08 a n d th e syst em w a s


.

a do p te d by tho usa n s of ho t e l s S ince th en t he r e h av e b een .

tw o I CV I S IQ II S t o m ee t ne w c o n d i t io n s of t he m or e mod e r n

h ot els T h i s i s the thi rd r ev i s i o n t ho r oly up to dat e a n d


.

. - -
, ,

w i th i ll u strat i o n s that show the a c tu al a cc o u n t b oo k s r ul


in gs a n d fa c s i m i l e en tr ie s ; a n d t he t ext matt er i s so c l ea r
t h at o n e n ee d n ot be a p ra c ti c al b ookk ee p er to un d er s tan d .

3
T he bo o k is in fo u r pa rt s t h e s e c ov e r in g all d e partm en ts , .

I t sh ow s h ow to g e t stor e room p er dollar c ost s ; h ow to


ha n dl e th e ci gar b u s ine ss ; h o w to g e t a n a cc u rat e stat e
m en t of th e ho t el s b u s ine ss from mo n th to mo nt h a n d a

m e thod of a u d i tin g th e fro n t o fce A Pro t a n d L os s .

s tat e m en t i s show n T he t e xt matt er emp h as ize s th e i m or


p.

ta nce of b ein g a cc u rat e of a c h ec k o n ev e ry tr a n sa c ti o n , ,

a n d t he ec o n omy of do in g thin gs th e r ig h t way t h u s pr e ,

v en t ing v e xat i o u s m i sta k e s that ta k e val u abl e t i m e in ma k ~

in g c orr ec ti o n s an d g i v in g the ope rator th e s at i sfa ct i o n


,

t hat c om e s from b ein g mast e r of h i s b u s ine s s H ot e ls n ow .

hav i n w or k a b l e a cc o u n t in g sy st e ms c a n n d i n th e Clar
e n ba c bo o k i d e a s t h at may b e inc orporat e d by t hem to
adva n tag e A l so t he y w i ll n d t he Clar en b a c h syst em
.

e last ic an d i ts r e s u lts c a n b e p u t o n a c om p arabl e ba si s


,

w i t h r e s u l ts obta ine d fro m ot he r syst e m s of h ot el a cc ou n t


i n g T he boo k i s s u ppl e m en t e d w i th a c ha pt er he ad e d A n
.

o u tl ine of th e fro n t o fce m e thods of th e larg e st h ot e l in



t he w orld T he b oo k i s 9 x 1 2 inche s a n d c o n ta in s 66
.

p ag e s r i n te d o n l edg e r pap e r attr a c t i v ely bo u n d in c loth


g
, ,

c ov er .

Fron t Ofce Psycho lo g y ( H eld en b ra n d ) T hi s i s t he o n ly .

b oo k tha t o u tl ine s ru l e s of c o n d u c t for t he p e opl e in t he


fro n t o fce w h o m ee t t he p u bl ic w he r e a pl eas in g p er so n ,

a li ty a n d c orr ec t hab i t of d e portm en t sp eech dr e ss a n d , , ,

a l l aro u n d c l e a n l ine ss ma k e s for i d e al


-
sal e sma n sh i p T he .

s u gg est i o n s ar e c lass ie d u n d e r d iff e r en t he ads as E m


p l oy ee r e lat i o n s " o u r p e rso na l i ty Recei v in g a n d room in g
, ,

H a n dl i n g of ma i l I n fo rmat i o n Chec k in g o u t
ro nt ofce ta c t ic s T h e boo k i s wr i tt en from t he p r ac
ue st s , , , ,

t ic al v ie wpo in t of a st u d en t of h u m an n at u r e a n d in th i s ,

r esp ec t i s a c la ssic I t in sp i r e s to a n i mprov e m en t in .

s e rv ice a n d c an b e r e ad w i th p ro t b yo u n g a n d old in
y
t he s m all o r the larg e h ot el o r in st i t u t i o n or b u s ine ss
h o u s e Po c k et s ize 5 x 8 inche s 1 00 pages A ttra c t i v ely
,

.
, , .

b o u n d i n wat er proof c ov e r ( A spe ci al p ri ce i s m ad e to-


.

hot els an d c ha i n s of h ot e ls b u y in g in q u an t i t ie s of t en or
m or e )
o

The B e ll B oy T hi s b oo k wa s G ui de ( H e l d en bra n d )

- s .

w r i tt en th the obj ec t of tra i nin g yo u n g m en of good


Wi
hab i t s i n t he d u t i e s c u stomar il y p erform ed by b ell b o ys
. .

-
.

I t was pr ep ar e d by th e a u thor to in str u c t thos e n ot i a


m i l i ar W i t h ho t e l s in th e pa rt ic u lar b e ll boy w or k r e u i r ed
.

fo r hi s ow n ho te l ft he H ot el H e ld en bra n d of Po n t i ac
q
-

M i c h i ga n Wi t h sl i g h t var i at i o n t hi s boo k w i ll m eet th e


,
.

nee ds of t he av e r e h ot el t h r u o u t A m e r ic a It i s po c k et
s ize 3 2 pa g e s a g pa c k ag e of fo u r boo k s for
.

.
,


a
P ul Ri cha rds i s t he t i tl e in b r ie f of Pa u l

Past r y B ook
Rich ards B oo k of B r e ad s Ca k e s Pas tr ie s I ces a n d

, , ,

S w ee tm e ats E sp eci ally A dapt e d for H ot e l a n d Cat e ri n g


,

P u rpo s e s T h e a u t h or i s k n ow n as o ne of t he most ski llf u l
.

a ll aro u n d ba k er s pastry c oo k s a n d c o n f ec t i o ne rs in
A m e r ic a an d h as demo n strat e d the ua li ty of h i s wor k in
,

l e ad in g h ot e l s I n wr i t in g th i s boo he too k part ic u la r


.

p a in s to h av e the r eci p e s r e l i abl e a n d word e d in s u ch s i m


pl e f ash i o n t h at all w h o r e ad t hem may r e ad i ly u n d e rsta n d
a n d wor k from th em T he bo o k i s in s ev en parts P art I . .

i s d e vot e d to fr u i t j e ll ie s a n d p r e s e rv e s ; j ams j e ll ie s , ,

c ompot e s a n d sy ru ps ; pr e s e rv e d c r u s he d fr u i ts for sh er
b ets a n d ice s ; pr e se rv in g is fr u i ts ; s u gar bo i l in g d e r ee s ;
c olors Pa r t I I pa stry an dp ie ma k in g past e s a n d l in gs ;
.
, ,

c r e am s patty c as e s, tarts an d tartl e ts ; i c in 3 Part


pa1stryc ak e b ak in g Par t I ] p u dd i ng s an d sauce s a rt V
, .

. .
,
,

4
ice c r ea m s ice s p u n ches e t c Part V I, b r eads roll s b un s
, , , .
, , ,

e t c Part V I I c a n d ma k in g a n d m i sce lla neo u s r e ci p e s ;


.
,
br e ad ec o n om i e s in o t e l ; c at e r e rs p r ice l i st T h e r eci pe s
.

ar e r ead i ly fo u n d w ith th e a i d of 3 6 c ol u m n s of in d e x a n d
c ross in d e x in t he ba c k of t he boo k t hi s ind e x form in g in ,

i tse lf a c ompl e t e d i r ect ory so to sp e a k of br eads pastry , , , ,

ice s a n d s u gar foods Pr in t ed o n stro n g w h i t e pape r ; page


.

7x 1 0 inche s 1 6 8 pag e s bo u n d in c lo th
, ,

a y for t he Rest aur an t b y Pa u l Ric hards a v e st


P st r , ,

p o c k et boo k of 1 5 8 ag e s i s as i t s t i tl e in d ic at e s e spe ,

c i al l y prod u ce d for t e u s e o f ba k ers e mploy ed i n r e sta n


,

ra n ts a n d Eu rop e a n p la n h ot els T h e st 1e of wor k re ui r ed .

for th e A m e r i c a n pla n hot e l w i t h tabl e ho t e m e al a n th at


,

for th e Eu ro pe a n pla n h ot e l r esta u ra n t w h e r e a c h art ic l e , e

i s sold for a s e pa rat e pr ice h as b ro u h t abo u t a d e ma n d ,

fo r a b oo k w i th r ecei pts a n d m e th o 5 e sp ecially adap t e d


for th e pr e parat i o n of ba k e ry a n d pastry o o ds fo r i n d i
v i d u al sal e T h e rst c hapt e r is d e vot e d to r en c h p a st ri es
.
,

w hic h ar e n ow so g ene rally sold y et so l i ttl e n ude r st oo d , ,

b ec a u s e of t he m i s n om er t i tl e ; th en follow s ca k e s a n d
tart s of ev ery k in d ; p ie s in gr e at var ie ty ; pu dd in g s hot ,

a n d s o ld ice s ice c r eams a n d ma n s pe c i alt ie s all se t


fort h w i t h in gr ed ien ts q u a n t i t ie s a n m ethods o f m i x in g


, ,

, ,

a n d p r e p a rin a n d in str u c t i o n s for ov en or t e mp e rat u r e


c o n trol M r . c hard s ot he r b oo k s h av e b ec om e sta n dard
.
'

the w orld ov er a n d th i s o ne w i ll be eq u ally r e l i abl e T h e


in d e x to th i s boo k ma k e s a v e ry c ompl e t e r e f e rence to
.

pop u lar pastry goo d s a n d w il l b e fo u n d val u abl e as a


r em in d e r T h e b oo k i s pr in t e d o n bo n d pap er
.

T he Lun ch Room Rich ards ) i s the ne w e st of t h e


( Pa ul ,

cul in ary bo o k s a n d b i ds fa i r to bec om e o ne of th e mo st


pop u lar ev e r prod u ce d I n wr i t in g th i s b oo k M . Ric hard s r.
c ov e r ed al l b ra nche s of t he b u s ine ss I n i ts pag e s ca n b e .

fo u n d l u nch room p la n S i ll u strat i o n s of eq u i pm e t ; c ha p '


n
t e r s on ma ri a e e n t sa ie sm an sh a n d b oo kk eepin g ; s u g
ge stio n s fo r i lls of far e ; r r o ip
m

uc ti o n of art i c l e s fr om
- -

t echnica l j o u r n als r e lat in to u nch rooms a n d abo u t


r eci p e s for l u nc h room g
,

i she s I t i s a c ompl e t e g u i d e to .

m a k in g a n d m ar k e t in g l u nch roo m food s a n d b e v erag e s .

T h e bo o k i s of part ic u lar val u e n ot alo ne to those w h o ,

ope rat e l u nch room s b u t to ho te lk ee e r s who may c o n,

S i d e r th e adv i sab i l i ty of p u tt in g in a u nch room in con


n e c ti o n w i t h th ei r b u s ine ss ; a d e part u r e t h at h as b ec om e
v e ry e n c al s ince so ma n y c o u n try hot e ls ar e c ha n g in g to
r

q i e d A m e ric a n or to Eu rop e a n pla n the l u nc h room ,

b e i n g th e st e pp in g sto ne to th e c ha n g e P rin t e d o n ne .

q u al i ty of pap e r stro n gly b o u n d

1 1 1 0 V es t Poc k e t Pa st r y B oo k ( Jo hn E M ei st e r ) T h i s . .

e c n in
li ttl b oo k o ta s 5 00 r eci e inc e s 5 7 for h ot p u d
p s, lu d
.

d i n gs ( pu dd i n g sa u ce s e t c ; 77 for c old p u dd in gs s i d e
, .
,

di sh e s Je ll i e s e t c ; 9 0 for ice c r eam s w at e r ice s p u nche s


, , .
, , ,

e t c ; 6 8 for p ast e s patt ie s p ie s tarts e t c ; 77 for c a k e ;


.
, , , , .

1 7 for i c i n s c olo ri n gs s u gars e t c ; 6 0 for b r ead rolls


, , , .
, ,

y e ast ra i s e c a k e s i ddl e c a k e s e t c ,as w e ll a s 5 5 m i s ,


.
,

c e ll a n e o us r eci p e s r M ei st e r w rot e t hi s boo k at t he


. .

r eq u e s t of th e e d i to r of T h e H ot el M o n t h ly w h o h ad he ard ,

h i s w or k h i g h ly c ompl i m en t e d b y hi s e mplo y e rs who sa i d ,

t he y b e l iev e d him to h av e n o s u p e r i or as as st c lass r -

w or k ma n T h e r eci e s w hi l e gi v en in f e w words y e t ar e
.
, ,

e as i ly un de r st an dab e a n d h av e he l pe d t h o u sa n ds of ba k e rs
,

to i mprov e thei r w or k B oo k is in d e x ed ; pr in t e d o n bo n d
.
T he V est Po ck et V e ge t abl e B oo k or e ) has ( Ch a s G . . M o ,

do ne mor e to pop u lar i ze th e c oo k in g a n d s e rv in g of v e ge


tabl e s in ho t el s a n d re sta u ra n ts tha n a n y oth e r b oo k e v e r
p u bl i sh ed I t wa s wr i tt en w i t h t hi s i d e a T he a u thor too k
. .

p a rt ic u lar pa in s to ma k e th i s l i ttl e vol u m e a c lass ic a n d


h i s mast e rp iece a n d h e s u ccee d e d r e mar k ably w e ll I n to
, .

1 2 0 pag e s he has c o n d en s e d mor e in format i o n r e gar din


th e h i story c u lt i vat i o n n u tr i t i v e q u al i t ie s a n d approv e
, , ,

f o rm s o f c ook in g a n d se rv in g v e g e tabl e s tha n c a n b e


fo u n d i n a n y oth e r boo k n o matt e r h ow large ; a n d i t h a s ,

b een d e mo n strat e d t o b e a boo k w i tho u t m i sta k e s Reci p es .

for so u ps sa u ce s gar ni sh in gs a n d salads s u ppl em en t th e


,

g ene ral r eci p e s The r e ar e 78 way s o f p r e par i n g potato e s


.
,

1 9 of m u s h rooms 1 9 of o ni o n s 1 5 of c abbag e e t c
, 2 7 of , , .
,

b e a n s 1 5 o f rice 2 5 of tomato e s a n d oth e rs in n u mb e r i n


, , ,

propo rt i o n to th ei r i mport a nce T h e v e g eta b l e s a r e g i v en .

w i th th ei r E n l i sh n am e s a n d th e F r ench a n d G erma n
tra n slat i o n s T e boo k i s in d e x e d pr in t e d o n bo n d pap e r
.
.
, .

P rice

T he B o ok of S a uces b C H e rm a nn S enn i s t he ne w e st
, .
,

of T h e H ot e l M o n thly an dbo ok s er ie s M r S enn i s th e . .

a u thor of th e famo u s T w en t iet h Cen t u ry Co o k e ry B oo k ,

T he M en u B oo k Pra c t ic al G astro n omy a n d t en oth e r


,

c u l in ary b oo k s t h at h av e b ec om e sta n dar din Eu rop e a n d ,

t h at hav e e xt en s iv e sal e in A m e ri c a H i s B oo k o f S a u ce s .

i s t he most c ompl e t e wor k of t he k in d that h as ev e r b een


prod u ce d It tr e at s t he s u b j ec t thor ol y from ev e ry a n gl e
.

a n d c ov er s all k in d s of sau ce s for m e at po u ltry sh a n d , , ,

salad d i s he s ; al so sw ee t sa u ce s T hi s boo k i s adapt e d n ot .

alo ne for th e h ot e l a n d c at e ri n g trad e s b u t al so for fam i ly ,

u s e th e world ov e r E p ic u r e s w i l l n d i t inval u abl e for th e


.

s u gg e st i o n s and pra c t ic al in str u c t i o n s tog eth e r w i t h th e ,

c u l in ary lor e the r ein c o n ta ine d B oo k i s v e st po c k e t s ize .


,

p rin t e d on b o n d
a
Ide s for Re fr eshm e n t Roo m s T hi s b oo k i s c ompos ed .

m ai n l y of e xpo s i ti on s o f c at er in g syst e m s in part ic u lar , ,

t e a room l u nch r oom d e partm en t stor e c af et er i a s ch oo l


, , , , ,

in d u str i al pla n t d i nin g c ar c l u b a n d o u t si d e A val u abl e


, , , .

f eat u r e of i t i s th e i ll u strati n g o f d i ffe r en t a cc o u n t in g sys


t e ms a n d r e port form s ; al so plan s of l u nch ro om s k i t chen s ,

a n d pa n tr ie s s h ow in g c o n s i st en t lay o u t T her e a r e mor e


,
-
.

tha n a h u n dr e d b e au t i f u l h alf to ne i ll u strat i o n s p i c tur i n


r e fr e shm en t room s of ma n y k in ds th ei r d ec orat i o n a n , ,

f u r ni s h m en t Compl e t e s et s of m en u s of famo u s c at e ri n g
.

e stab l i shm en ts ar e p r e s en t e d ; also a larg e n u mb e r of


m en u s to t t he l u nch room c af e t er i a in d u str i al pla n t , , ,

o r s c hool T hr u o u t th e b oo k t he r e i s a pl e a for th e bal


.

a n c e d rat i o n an d r h t e ati n g the advo c a c y of pla in food s


s i mply pr e ar e d a nig
,

app e t i s in gly s erv e d t he n u tr i t iv e val u e


g i v en c ar e p
,

ul c o n s i d e rat i o n T h e r e i s a ch apt e r o n se rv ice ; .

a c hapt e r o n th e b re w in g a n d se rv in g of t ea a n d c off ee ;
s ev e ral pa g e s d evot e d to pa n try pr e par e d foods ; i ll u stra
t i on s of k i t chen s of r e sta u r a n t chec k s a n d of ma n y in t e r
, ,

e st in g t hin gs a s el ec tr ic eq u ip m en t ; ue sti on s of fu e l
,

e c o n omy i ll u m in at i o n a n d a h u n dre d a n o ne c l ev e r i d e a s
, ,

in th e mar k e t in g of pr e par e d foo ds in p u bl ic e at in g h o u se s .

T he bo o k i s tho r oly in d e x ed a n d c ros s in d ex ed to ass u r e


q u ic k n d i n g 3 8 5 pag es c l oth b o u n d Pr i c e
o

.
, 5 2 00 . . .

The Ho t e l a nge r and Carve r ( Fr ank


B utcher, G arde M .

Ri v e rs .
) The a u hor has c u l t i va t e d a new e ld in cu l in ary
t
l i t e ra t u r e a n d produ ce d a boo k bo th n ov e l an d u s e f u l Hi s
, .

ex p e ri ence as b u tc h e r c arv e r c h e f an d s t ew ard en abl e d hi m


, ,

t o c omp i l e fa c t s r e gard in g m e a t s a n d m e at ec o n om ic s fro m ,

the b u tc h e r shop t o t he d i n in g r oo m t abl e t h a t Wi ll b e ih -


,

6
val u abl e to man age rs s t ewards c h e fs an d all p e rson s em , , ,

ploy e d in cu l in ary wor k Hi s boo k d ige sts t he s u bj ec t s of .

b uy in g han dl in g s al e a n d s e rvic e of m e at s po u l t ry an d sh
, , , ,

for hot e ls r e s t a u ran t s c l u bs an d i n st i ut i on s It i s var ie d


, , .

w i t h s ugge s t i on s for t he u s e of m e a t s a n d t ri mm ings for


par t ic u lar d i she s ; t he c ompos i t i o n of t h e s e d i sh e s set for t h
i n c onci s e form T h e in forma t i on i s c lar ie d b y t he u s e
.

of abou t 3 00 i ll u s t ra t i on s T h e in d ex i s so c ompr e h en s i ve .

t ha t an y i t e m ma y b e r e f e rr e d to o n t he in s t an t 1 25 pag e s . .


The A dve r t i si n g b y Clar ence M add en i s t he of Ho t el s

rs prac ic al c ompr e h en s i v e inqu i ry in to ho t e l adve r ti s in g


t t ,

e ve r mad e ava i l abl e I t i s t he on l y boo k w h ic h t r e a t s t he .

probl em of s e ll in g rooms a n d s e rvice in i t s en t i r e t y p ro


mot i on p ubl ici t y ,

i n t he ho u se

w ord oi mou t h copy
,
- -
,
- -

, ,

appropr i a t i on m e d i a s e l ec t i on an d agency con t a c t M r


, , . .

M add en i s a cqu a in t e d w i t h bo t h s i d e s of t he adv e r t i s i n g


p ic t u r e Hi s boo k br ings t he two in t o sharp fo cu s a n d shows
.

t h ei r prop e r r e la t i o n sh i p A n yo ne w ho i s i n an y w a y .

aff ec t e d b y ho t e l adv e r t i s in g sho u ld b e s u r e to h ave o n


han d a cop y of THE A DV E RT I S I NG O F HO T E LS for
s t u dy r e f er enc e a n d gu i dance 1 36 p a ge s Pr ice
, , . .

T he Oyst e r B ook b y Le o n Kien t z for ma n y


Fi sh an d , ,

y e ars che f of Re c tor s ( th e n ot e d s ea foods r e sta u ra n t in

Ch ic ago ) i s a h a n dy v e st po c k e t vo l u m e th e l eaf m e a sur


'
,

in g 3 x 6 V inc h e s I n th i s boo k M r Kien t z t e lls in c o nci se


2 . .

ma nn e r h ow to c oo k pra c t ic ally e v e ry k in d of s h that i s


bro u ght to t h e A m e ri c a n mar k et ; a n d n ot o n ly e xpla in s
th e m e tho d of c oo k in g b u t al so t he ma k i n g of t he sa u ce s ,

a n d th e ma nne r of s e rv ice E v e r r eci p e i s g i v en w i th i ts .

b i ll o f far e n am e in E n gl i s h a n i ts tra n slat i o n in t o th e


- -

F r enc h T he r eci p e s inc l u d e al so s u c h d i s he s as frogs


.

l egs all k i n ds of s h e ll s h s n a i ls t er rap in a n d t he s h


, , , ,

for cem e ats A lso th e r e i s a n app en d ix w i th sp eci m en s h


.

a n d oyst er h o u s e l u nc h e o n a n d d inne r m en u s w i t h a n d
w i th o u t w ine s T h e boo k i s in d e x e d pr in t e d o n bon d
.
,

pap e r bo u n d in e xi b l e c ov e r
,
.

a o
E con m i c l S oups an d E n t r ees ( V a ch o n ) T hi s b oo k was .

wr i tt en in r e spo n s e to a d e ma n d for a boo k that wo u ld


t e ll h o w to p r e par e savory d i s he s from ine xp en s i v e mat e
r i al s at small c ost ; a n d in part ic u lar h ow t o u s e u p l e ft , ,

ov ers ; by wh ich i s m e a n t good c oo k e d foods n ot se rv e d


at a pr ev i ou s m e al a n d wh ich h av e n ot in a n y way lo st ,

th ei r mar k e tabl e val u e in th e s en s e of d e t e r i orat i o n of


ua l i t y b u t w h ic h c a n b e s e rv e d in hot e l o r r e sta u ra n t in
,

t e sam e a p p et i zi n ma nne r t h at l e ftov e r s ar e s e rv e d in


w ell to do fam i l ie s a
- -
i r V a ch o n was se l ec t e d to wr i t e th i s
. .

boo k b ec a u s e of his r e p u ta t i o n a s a n ec o n om ic al che f I n i t .

he h as g iv en r eci p e s in part ic u lar for m eat en tr ee s of th e


savory ord e r st e w s p ie s a n d c ro q u ett e s h ash salad s a n d
, , , ,

fr ie d m e ats T h e so u ps inc l u d e c r e ams broth s bo u i llo n s


.
, , ,

c howd e rs p u r ee s pe pp er ts a n d t he l i k e I t i s two boo k s


, , .

in o ne s e parat e ly i n d e x
, pr in t e d o n b o n d pap e r l e af 3 x 7 ,

inc h e s bo u n d in e x i bl e c ov e r Pr ice
, . .

E ggs i n Ways b y A dolp h e M e y e r g i v e s mor e


a T ho usand , ,

r el i abl e in for mat i o n r e gard in g eggs an d th ei r pr e parat i o n


for t he tabl e t h a n c a n b e fo u n d in a n y othe r bo ok Is .

i n d e x e d a n d c ross in d e x e d so t h at a n y m e t ho d of c oo k in g
e ggs a n d a n y of the gar ni s hin gs c a n b e r e f e rr e d to o n th e
i n sta n t T h e book starts w i t h bo i l e d e ggs T h en ( fol lo w i n
th e d ep artm en tal in d e x in alphab e t ic al ord e r ) ar e c ol d
. .

e gg s 79 w a y s ; e gg d ri n k s 2 2 k in ds ; e ggs in c as e s 2 5
, , ,
ways ; in c o c ott e s 2 4 ways ; moll et 79 w ays ; mo ld e d in
, ,

t i mbal e s 2 9 w ays ; fr ie d 3 3 ; fr ie d poa c h ed 3 8 ; h ard


, , ,

e ggs 3 2 ; m i s cella ne o u s r eci p e s 2 7; om e l e ts in 2 1 0 w a s ;


, ,

c a c hed 2 2 7 w ays ; sc r ambl ed 1 2 3 ; S h i rr e d 9 S ; st u ed


hard 3 4 s u rpr i s e om e l e ts 9 ; sw ee t eggs 1 6 ; sw ee t om e
, , , ,

,

l e t s 3 8 The r eci pe s ar e in c o n d en s e d form T h e b oo k i s


, ,

. .

v e st po c k et siz e 1 5 0 pag e s pr in t e d on bo n d pap e r


, , .

The A m e r i ca n Wai t e r ( Jo hn B i s t he o n ly p u b . G o in s )
l i she d b oo k that tr e ats in t e ll i gen tly of the wa i t e r s wor k

from b u s boy to head wai t er for b ot h ho t e l a n d r e sta u ra n t ,

r eq u i r e m en t s T he a u thor h a s r ecen tly c ompl e t e d Part 2


.

of th i s b oo k t he new p ar t d evote d la r ge l to Eu rop e a n


la n s e rv ice a n d c omb ine d w i th Pa rt 1 w h
,

, , ich i s d evot ed ,

a r ge l y to A m e r ic a n pla n s e rv ice h a s ro u n d e d o u t a man ,

u al w hich i s v e ry val u abl e to tho se w ho wo u ld g i v e tabl e


se rv ice of t he k in d s u i t ed for th e av erag e h ot e l I n t e r .

sp e rs e d in t he boo k are ch apt e rs o n th e c ar e o f tabl e


w ar es salad ma k in g tabl e s e tt in g ca rv in g d i sh in g u
, , ,

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ma n y oth er u se f u l i t em s of in formati o n h e b oo k i s i ll u s .

t r a te d ve st po c k e t s ize pr in t e d o n bo n d pap e r
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The V an Or m a n S y st e m of Ho t e l Co n t ro l A boo k i llustr at .

i n g a n d d e s c r i b in g t he m an y forms u s e d i n t he ho t e ls of t he
V an O r m an Cha in of ho t e ls Pr ic e .

Re q ui r em e n ts of a G ood B ed T hi s i s a 36 p ag e boo k l e t .
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c on t a inin g c hap t e rs o n B e dsprings M a t t r e ss e s Pi ll ows


S h e e t s B la n k e t s Wash in g B la n k e t s an d a Linen Con t rol
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S y s t e m I t i s a c oll ec t i o n of ex ce e d in gl y i n form a t i v e ar t icl e s


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w h ich rs t a pp e ar e d i n T h e Ho t e l M o n thl y T h e y ar e n ow .

o er ed in t h i s h an d y c omp a c t form ne a tl y bo un d for r e f



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e r e nc e p u rpos e s E v e ry ho t e l m an age r a n d e ve ry ho te l
.

h ou s e k e e p e r w i ll w an t t o poss e ss a cop y of Requ i r em en t s


for a G ood Be d Not on l y i s i t a good r e f e r enc e w ork but


.
,

i t s e rv e s as a n e d u c a t i o n al p i e c e of l i t e ra tu r e for t hos e
m e m b e rs of t he s t aff w ho s e e k adva nce m e n t a n d ar e s e ri o u s
i n t he p e rfo r ma nc e of t h e i r w or k Pr ic e 50 cts . .

Candy for Desse rt ( Ri ch ard s) Pr i c e .

Dr i n ks ( Ja cq u e s S trau b ) M rs Ja cq u e s S tra u b w i d o w of . .
,

t he a u thor of th i s boo k h a s p ubl i s he d a ne w e d it i on t h e


O s c ar o f T he Wald o rf A stor i a
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for ewo rd in whi c h i s by


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c omm en d in g D r in k s for i ts m i ss i o n ary w or k a s a t e m


c ra nc e b o ok I t app e al s in part
.


ic u lar t o c at

e r,e rs in ,

o r e i gn c o u n tr i e s w her e A m e r i c a n m i x e d dr in k s ar e p o p
u lar Pr ice
.


Cl i ffor d M Lewi s e ri can la n Che ck

. Am P

Pr i c e s sub e c t t o c han
j ge , u p or do w n ,
a cc o r di n g to m ar k e t c o n di ti o n s

Ho t e l M o n t hl
y B o o k sho
p
JO HN WILL" I c , n .

9 50 M e r c ha n di se M ar t , Chi c ago , Ill .