Ethical Foundations In Sustainable Fashion

Kirsi Niinimki

In this paper Niinimki aims to investigate the values on which sustainable fashion stands, moreover she
wants to explore the consequences of the current design and manufacturing processes from the perspective
of environmental ethics.

To recognise the ethical foundation of sustainable fashion, the author relies on two sources of secondary
data: her former writings and other experts works on the core values in sustainable fashion.

Niinimki concludes that sustainable fashion represents a wicked problem and as such, there is not definite
answer for it. The solution is different depending on whose values are considered the highest. This means to
assess the ethics in sustainable design based on environmental ethics and values. According to this, in order
to achieve a sustainable business model there are three levels of change that need to be addressed: the
ecosystem, human health in the supply chain and sustainable use of resources.

In this regard, the main challenge in developing a new business model stands in that any ethical consideration
is currently perceived more as a problem than a business possibility. Based on Ehrenfeld (2015) 1, the author
completes that to promote a radical change is important to bring together consumers needs and values. A
product with this characteristics can be produced by having producers and consumers working together in a
more cooperative way, so that the values can be part of the production process from the designing stage.

Based respectively on the views of Papanek (1995) 2 and Gibbins and Reimar (1999) 3, this paper starts
understanding the general meaning of ethics and values, and the central values of environmentalism. The
latter are considered to be the protection of biodiversity and ecological systems, the negative effect on
human health and sustainable use of resources 4. Looking at protecting the environment, there are also three
stakeholders people, economy and society whose fundamental values should be considered 5.

In the view of environment sustainability and sustainable economy, the current fashion industry is perceived
unsustainable as far as production process and consumers consumption patterns, however the need for
change is tested at corporate level, where is resisted because perceived as a potential cause for de-
growth 6. For a radical change to happen, both the business model needs rethinking and consumers
behaviour needs to adapt. The way forward is to focus more on knowing the consumers needs, but also their
values.

1
Enhrenfel, JR. (2015), the real challenge of sustainability. In K Fletcher and M Tham (Eds.), Routledge handbook of
sustainability and fashion (pp.57-63). New York, USA, Routledge.
2
Papanek V. (1995), The green imperative. Ecology and ethics in design and architecture. London: Thames and
Hudson.
3
Gibbins, J, & Reimar (1999), The politics of postmodernity. London, UK: An introduction to contemporary politics and
culture.
4
Pahike, RC.(2000). Environmental values and public policy. In NJ Vig & ME Kraft (Eds.), Environmental ethics. An
anthology (pp. 15-37). Oxford, UK: Blackwell Publishing.
5
Leiserowits, AA, Kates, RW, & Parris, TM (2006). Sustainability values, attitudes, and behaviours: a review of
multinational and global trends. Annual Review, Environment and Resources, 31, 413-444.
http://environment.yaleedu/climatecommunication/files/AttitudesSustainDevelop.pdf (Accessed 1 March 2011).
6
Niinimki K. (Ed). (2013), Sustainable fashion, new approaches. Helsinki: Aalto ARTS Books.
http://aaltodoc.aalto.fi/handle/123456789/13769 (Accessed 1 October 2014
A sustainable economy involving a cooperative process between consumers and companies can be achieved
by working on several levels: following principles of corporate social responsibility (CSR), maintaining
consumers trust, and by committing the company to sustainable practices at all business levels.

Consumers trust can be sustained through an open communication channel between producers and
consumers. Additionally, garment labelling should change from made in into made by, showing not only
the origin of a product, but being transparent about all stages involved in the production process.

This clarity guarantees that the company embraces sustainable practices at all levels of its business. A result
that can be achieved if the companys core values are based on sustainability, avoiding to use environmental
concerns as marketing tool to increase sales (greenwashing). It also means to address potential issues found
in working with subcontractors and that occur at the end of the production cycle, like the garment lifetime.

In regards to the supply chain management, a company should consider working in partnership with factories
that share the same values and sustainability motivation, match the business standards and is compatible
with international rules and principles.

For what concerns current consumption patterns, the main problem is caused by the short lifetime of
garment, which is the effect of encouraging fast trends and business need for immediate profits. This part of
the transformation has to transpire at product level, by increasing its duration and a designing it so that
represents a value not only for the business and the customer, but also for the environment (Walker, 2007) 7.
The aim is to strengthen the emotional experience customers make when purchasing goods: this outcome is
realised through a deeper understanding of consumers values and incorporating added value to a product
such as ecological value. This type of product is called eco-innovation.

Products can also be designed directed to add future-oriented value to it, which means to think how the
product will be used, how it will fade and how it could be disposed reducing its environmental impact. The
latter can be attained by the enforcement of legislation such as extended producer responsibility (EPR), which
demands to take the product back to its producer after its use. For this to work, it is essential to think how
to reduce the environmental footprint of a good from the design stage.

Developing a sustainable fashion business requires a radical thinking process, at all business levels, including
the degree of product innovation. The rethinking process is perceived as a challenge by the industry, which
fears it as potential cause of de-growth and because it demands to approach the business in a new way
(holistic way). On the other side, it brings discoveries of new lifestyle and way of satisfying consumer needs
that embodies their values.

7
Walker, S (2007). Sustainable by design. Exploration in theory and practice. London, UK: Earthscan.