DENIMIO THE ULTIMATE

PRIMER
ON DENIM,

A GUIDE TO DENIM

W W W. DENIMIO.COM
 ''It may seem daunting.
We won't argue with that.''

T
hese are all great brands made
by the most storied and expert
hands. You cant find a bad prod-
BREATHE, RELAX
uct here. I slide into a pair of
Denimes and I feel at home. They fit so
Thats what were here to do. We are
well. I look at some Flat Heads and they
know-it-alls, because we love this stuff.
have such an interesting darkness about
This is our passion. You have questions.
themthe same goes for Eternal. And
Weve got answers. We minimize the
Momotaro there exist so many varia-
uncertainty out of buying your first,
bles. We carry this wide range of brands
second or hundredth pair of high end
because we believe in all of them, know
Japanese denim. When you buy Deni-
they all make a fantastic product, and,
mio, you buy knowing that we will work
above all, understand that those who
with you to find exactly what you want
come to us are from different walks
and need. We wouldnt do anything less.
of life and every corner of the world.
If you have any questions, please use
There's something here for everyone.
our live chat system or email support@
denimio.com. Our experts are passion-
ate -- and global -- so your questions will
Looking at these brands and all they
be answered accurately and promptly.
have to offer may seem intimidating
at first, but with a little bit of patience
you will have this figured out in no time.
It just takes a moment to get a feel
for what you need. It is a little bit like
buying a car, bike or computer you
do your research. Youre trying to find WHETHER YOU'RE SEEKING
your denim partner, that pair of denim
that will be a part of your history. So A SPIRITUAL BOND WITH
you spend some time trying to figure
out what is best for you. You ask other YOUR NEW JAPANESE
people. Or you simply go with your gut
instinct. You do you. As you should. And RAW DENIM OR THOSE
with time, you come to find what you
want. Like we said though, everything CAPTIVATING SICK FADES,
we carry is the best of the best, so in
all likelihood, whatever you decide, you WE GOT YOU. THIS GUIDE
wont be disappointed.
IS TO HELP GET YOU
But what about your fit!!. Hoping it STARTED
doesnt shrink too much or too little!
Hoping it will accommodate your weight
loss/gain. Are they too baggy? Are they
too slim?

2
 3
INTRODUCTION
TO DENIM
 The first thing to consider when
approaching Japanese denim is simple:
UNSANFORIZED VS. SANFORIZED?

Those words seem farfetched, if not scientific. But

it is a little more simple than you'd think:
In 1930, an American gentleman noticed a large
discrepancy in the production of denim in the Unit-
ed States. Denim often shrank at varying rates.
source: info.fabrics.net

This led him to produce a machine that steam

treated cotton fibers to be preshrunk, which elimi-
nated the need to worry about cotton pants, in-
cluding denim, shrinking when getting wet. Sanford
Lockwood Cluett (hence Sanforized) developed a
tool that made it easier for decades worth of den-
im wearers to understand how to size their denim.

This breaks denim down into two categories. San-

forized denim is pre-shrunk, pre-steamed and
soaked. It will possibly stretch some, depending on
the denim, but the expressed goal of sanforization
is to eliminate all shrink during soak.
The other school of thought is the purchase of
unsanforized denim, and it has its merits as well.
When a denim is shrunk-to-fit, as the old Levis ads
said, it can better morph to the body. Pre-shrunk
denim often appears shinier and is more starchy,
or rougher. However, plenty of unsanforized den-
ims are also rough, but known to be softer post-
soak. Denim also increases in weight (per square
yard) after being soaked, as the density increases.
Courtesy of our Instagram friend @halfresky we
have a great soak shot here. Some people say to
wear your jeans in the tub to be mindful of the
waist, some soak their jeans in a mop bucket.
There's no wrong way to do it, whatever works for
you. Experiment.

Often our customers will do a cold soak instead

of a warm soak. We associate a bath with warm-
er water, but a cold soak is often very practical.
Colder water will still allow the denim to shrink,
but it wont shrink quite as much as a warm soak.
Warmer water has the tendency to shrink denim
more. When sizing up we see customers doing the
warmest soak they can this is practical as it helps
to get all of the shrink out. We even see customers
wear their jeans into the ocean to soak them initial-
ly. The abrasiveness of the sand will help to soften
them up more quickly, however be careful they
4
 are very likely to have taken on the small of the ocean! Ocean soak
at your discretion.
The soaking of unsanforized denim (and some hardcore denimheads
dont even soak, ever! though this isnt recommended, as it of-
ten can change your fit, fades and opinion of your jeans) shrinks it
and softens it. Often it brings out different levels of blue. Different
shades and hues, as well as more consistent fading. None of this is
science though. Think of it as art.

Certain brands like ONI are known to stretch more, so, often buyers
size down or buy a size or two below their actual waist size, to ac-
count for the stretching, and to ensure a better fit, ultimately. (Most
exchanges are due to buying denim too small, so please, ask use for
our advice first, before sizing down).We also carry brands like Mo-
motaro and Japan Blue, known for their lack of stretch.
It is recommended to find your waist size by either the 360
degree method or the flat method. and figure out the denim
for you from there. For the majority of our products we provide
measurements in both formats. If youre used to the flat method,
go ahead and follow that, lay 'em flat and measure across the waist,
then multiply your number by two. If not, take that measuring tape
and use the 360 degreemethod. We're going to do everything we
can to get your jeans to fit the way you need them to fit. For a start,
we would recommend looking at our online guide here: http://www.
denimio.com/sizing-guide

It is often recommended with your first pair of high-end Japanese

denim to be a sanforized pair, so you can avoid some of the sizing

photo by @halfresky
problems often encountered by first-time buyers with unsanforized
denim. Some say unsanforized denim has more character than
sanforized denim remember, this is only according to some but
unsanforized denim undeniably provides more certainty when it
comes to fit and in regard to stretch.

5
 Aside from the shrinking, or not shrinking, of the cotton,

there are a few other things

to consider

LOWER RISE jeans are popular.

Pay attention to this.
Certain customers like a lower or higher rise, and they
pay attention to their rises measurement. The lower
the rise, the higher the waist measurement will be.
Low rise denim is meant to be worn lower on the hip.
Look at jeans like the ONI 512 or many pairs in Japan
Blues lineup for this. (Conversely, look at other pairs
by ONI, most of Momotaros lineup and also Samurais
for a mid to high rise and see how that differs in fit).

THIGH source: mynudies.com

measurement is very, very impor-
tant to pay attention to. Often pre-
mium brands like ONI and Japan Bluehave very lean
thigh measurements relative to their hem and waist
source: superfuture.com

measurements. It is said to size by the thighs. Brands

like this are the perfect reason. Pay attention to the
measurements before and after soak on our website
and see how they vary. Diehard denimheads often
size up to accommodate for their thighs that are too
tight, while having a big waist, in pairs like the ONI 512
(left).

INSEAM measurements are very important. While a 34 or 36 inseam

is more than enough for most of uswith a cuffsome of us
look for a 39 inseam or above. In the brands we carry, that is most often seen in
Samurai and SDA. Rawr Denim wrote a fantastic article on different inseam lengths
that accommodate taller individuals here: rawrdenim.com/2013/05/10-pairs-of-raw-
denim-with-34-inseams

6
 THE IMPORTANCE OF THIGHS,
DETAILS, DENIM WEIGHT
AND FADES

HARDWARE . Some brands love to

usome brands love to
use copper or steel hardware. All the brands we car-
ry use different hardware for different reasons. Look
at the different rivets of our brands strong, color-
ful, unique every brand has something new to offer.
Every brand from Denime to Eternal to Pure Blue Ja-
pan to Samurai; each and every brand we carry has a
unique approach on hardware and we appreciate them
all equally. Each approach to hardware is equally artis-
tic and beautiful but it is for you to figure out what you
like. A great example of hardware and how it can add
to the look of denim would be our recent collaboration
with Momotaro. There's even some indigo bleed in this
shot, more on that in just a second!
IT' S ABOUT TH E LITTLE TH I NGS

INDIGO BLEED . Yes, indigo can bleed onto your things. Sometimes
you may find small traces of it on your car seat,
your couch and your shoes/boots. That is part of the beauty of this, part of the journey.
Your denim is alive and constantly changing in character due to the nature of real indigo
dye. People who buy these pants know this. Embrace it!

7
 WEIGHT . The old school dungarees
worn by miners were around
10oz. but they were worn over other things. A con-
ventional pair of quality, Japanese denim is typically
between 13oz and 15oz. This would include your ba-
sic, entry level pairs, as well as some of the highest
level pairs of Japanese denim. Often, among selvage
denim fans, a very heavy weight is thought of as be-
ing the highest indicator of quality. And while, yes, it
takes more sophisticated machinery to produce it, it
does not necessarily mean that it is better or worse
than other denim. Some of the nicest denim we car-
ry is below 14oz. and is manufactured unlike any-
thing else on earth Bear in mind that many times the

weight of the denim is simply a practical decision: heavier denim is thicker and more
appropriate for cooler weather, while lighter denim is thinner and breathes more,
making it more appropriate for warmer weather. For example, we offer jeans sold at
10oz, just like the miners, as that is a great weight for summer. We in this business
get so used to heavy weight denim that we often forget the importance of a solid
pair of lightweight denim.

Heavyweight denim is usually thought of as being more robust due to weight, but
that is not always the case. A heavy weight pair is not an insurance policy, though
a heavy pair could in some cases mean a more robust construction. A heavier pair
also usually means more friction, more creasing. This means a higher
level of indigo to lose and hence higher-contrast or pronounced
fades. Often denimheads prefer heavier weight denim precisely
because of this: to obtain the highest and most striking level of
fades.

Fades can be split into a few main categories, which you will often
hear and read about when people are discussing raw denim:
The whiskers are formed on the top block, or the front
top, from the crotch to waistline and are called that due to their
resemblance of cat or animal whiskers.
The honeycombs, or the creases that form in the area behind
the knees as one walks and moves and the top block going down
the knees. They are called honeycombs because they are similar in
shape to a stretched-out honeycomb.
The stacks are when a pair of denim is slightly longer than your
legs (long inseam) and actually stacks on top of a pair of shoes or
boots and forms a diamond sort of pattern, creasing atop the foot-
wear.

8
 photo by @marzipansgd
9
U LT I M AT E LY, T H I S W I L L A L L A D D U P TO YO U R F I T

Y
our fit is how the jeans, quite literally, fit on you. Some people
prefer a rocker-style skin tight fit. Others prefer wider-legged
denim. There are a handful of basic fits we see, and this can
help guide you.

Skinny fits, or narrow straight, are seen often in Europe, North

America and Asia, but theyre popular everywhere. With the right
thigh (again, the thigh is usually the first thing after the waist to be
considered when sizing) and knee, a skinny fit can be very flattering.
We see this a lot in rock and roll type of outfits, which is interesting,
as the style began with rebels in the French Revolution, graduated
to Ivy League schools in the United States, and ultimately became
popular with Hollywood. Western film stars were seen in them and
theyve been iconic since. Interestingly enough, however, we now
are seeing Hollywood embrace the more relaxed fits, which may
sway the trend again in that direction.

Slim jeans, often seen as a tight straight fit, are similar to skinny
jeans, but a little bit wider. Theyre modern. Theyre fitted and trim
like skinny jeans but with a little bit more room. They often tend to
have a straighter leg, though they have a slim silhouette. They hug
the wearer less but still flatter the wearer all the same. With denim
made in Japan a tight straight fit will fit more like a slim fit in The
West.

Tapered jeans. These are essential. Essentially, a tapered jean is a

jean with a wider top than bottom, thus the taper. Theyre popular
in very many circles, and for good reason. They give the wearer
more room up top in the thigh, and taper off toward the bottom
hem opening, giving a fitted look that is more comfortable than a
conventional skinny fit. Tapered jeans are the go-to jean for very,
very many fans of Japanese denim.

A relaxed or straight leg fit is classic. The first fit ever

produced. This is the fit made to be worn over long
underwear if you were a Forty-Niner. This is the
holy grail. A straight leg fit pair of jeans is where
everything began. Theyre less form-fitting and
more of an anti-fit, as they were made to not be
e
is th

trim, initially. This fit is essential straight leg

fits are seen on forties and fifties Hollywood
is
e th

stars, so for many hip trendsetters in Southeast

ajes . A fit lik

Asia and people in-the-know, this is a timeless

fit. We often see jeans like this cuffed high,
ti c .
fit
im fi classic

with pride, and with classic shirts flannels,

ts. M

white t-shirts and denim jackets.

f all hh is a
den
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o ri g n c i s l a
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a
@ fr

10
 ''A skinny fit can look
great on the right person
with the right outfit, but
be careful -- it can be a
slippery slope!''

Somet Writer's Pants

Source: global.rakuten.com

11
12

WE AIM TO PROVIDE YOU WITH THE GREATEST
RAW DENIM IN THE WORLD,
A myriad of indigo-dyed
masterpieces, jackets,
t-shirts and more that
embody the spirit of Japan
kind, historic, intelligent
clothing with positive
simplicity and formality.
This is the stuff dreams
are, quite literally, made
of. Incredibly high quality
clothing full of history and
structural integrity. We
are more than proud to
wear our brands Every.
Single. Day.
We want to share all this
passion and this love we
have for Japanese sel-
Our philosophy
is simple
vice can pick the items up
from wherever you may
be. This will be cheaper
than using a regular mail
cess as simple as possible
service since we have dis-
for you.
counted rates and much
smoother. Trust us.
YOU FALL IN LOVE
WITH A PIECE WE CAR-
RY. WE DO ALL THE
TIME. THATS GREAT.
But wait! Its too big! Or
too small! Or it doesnt
look quite like you wanted
it to look. Or you think
the silhouette isnt for
you it doesnt matter.
Even if you want a differ-
ent color or you simply
changed your mind! We
get it: Returning items
A few minor rules though:

Photo by: Francesco (@mastrix1)

vedge and raw denim with
you. Wherever you may
be in the world. And to
accomplish this, we are
making the buying pro-
especially items designed
to mold to your body
should be a process with-
out headache.
So thats what weve done.
What do you do when you
want to return or ex-
change one of our items?
Go here:
denimio.com/return-re-
quest-simple.html
1. The item must be
unworn, unsoaked and
still have tags.
2. The item must be re-
turned in the original
packaging.
3. The request to return
must be made with a
week of receiving the
order.
And VOILA! Headache
gone.

If youve any questions,

After receiving your
request to return or ex-
change your item, we will
get in contact with you
so that our courier ser-
please contact support@
denimio.com with your
order number and name
and all of your issues will
be attended to.

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 Wed like to thank all our customers and fans and ask them
what theyre looking for next. What brands would you like to
see represented here? What would you like to see us do?

Think blue. Think Denimio.