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LONDON . NEW YORK . DUBAI . SHANGHAI .

FLORENCE

CELEBR ATING CENTURIES OF DRESS EVOLUTION


London
Fashion Matters Gala, The Savoy
Friday 10 October 2014

New York
Tuxedo Park Autumn Ball
25 October 2014

Dubai
The Art of Dress Exhibition and
The Creative Circle Symposium London College of
A4 Space by Alserkal Avenue
2 4 November 2014 Fashion is delighted
Shanghai to present The Art of
Shanghai Museum of Textiles and
Costume Donghua University Dress, an exhibition of
8 November 3 December 2014
clothes, accessories,
Florence
17th Annual IFFTI Conference costume, writing,
Polimoda, Florence
12 16 May 2015 images and multimedia
from students across a
variety of courses.

The intention of the work is to reflect These inspirations continue to find


both the past, and where dress comes their way into all aspects of a modern
from, as well as to explore the future, wardrobe, even if in the tiniest detail
and where it might go. The exhibition or the subtlest nuance. Even after
presents the whole story, from the centuries of fashion changes there
historical and contextual evidence are still distinct echoes and threads
gathered by the students in the form passing through contemporary dress.
of essays, to their interpretations in
the form of film work as well as their The azure blue of heraldry is reflected
design vision. in the azure blue coat, dress and hat
of the present queen, the fragile
The work has been created to provoke white embroidery of a summer
discussion through investigating dress harks back to the tea gowns
new methods, old silhouettes, new of Queen Alexandra, and the stiff
attitudes, and ancestral voices. The brocade of a Prada coat reminds us
ceremony of dress and the origins of of the court of Henry VIII.
much fashion can be directly traced
to the courts of the world, where Students have looked at a range
fashion and dress were at their most of subjects, influences and ideas
aspirational. The rituals and manners to create dress as an art form,
of court life are reflected in much and to pay homage to the courts
of the evolution of dress, alongside and formalities of yesterday. They
formal and occasion dress. Over the celebrate experimental creativity in
centuries observers and admirers combining the symbols and traditions
would take up a colour, a detail or of the past with their interpretation of
even just the way a sleeve hung as the dresses of the future.
their way of reflecting their desires.

Professor Frances Corner OBE


Head of London College of Fashion

With thanks to James Rees, Anthony


John Sayer, Kenny Leung, Marie
Bruce, Martha Zmpounou and
Johannes Daniel Models, Beth
Donaghy and Harriet Rose at Select.
Max Granger at AMCK. Paige Tyson-
Simmons at LCF Street Casting.
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4 5
1

THE POWER
OF BLUE

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The Power of Blue:
from Heraldry to Catwalk

Rebekah Cheng

Blue - the colour of natures vast Perhaps this gives Blue its regal, 1

oceans, limitless skies and for a time, nature and why for SS15, Aquamarine womenswear by oksana anilionyte
ba (hons) fashion design technology: womenswear
an obsession of Picasso. The latter topped the womens Pantone colour photogr aph: james rees

went through a Blue Period between chart (Dusky Blue was first choice
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1901-1904, producing a series of for men). Unsurprisingly, the core
womenswear by felipe hiroshi goto
monochromatic paintings in shades of anchoring hue was Classic Blue. ba (hons) fashion design and development
photogr aph: james rees
blue and blue-green. Whilst Picasso Nevertheless, whether Cerulean or
may have chosen the palette as a Cyan, Blue continues to wow the 3

reflection of his depressed state, Blue catwalk and red carpet. blue sculpture dress
isabella cotier
also brings to mind feelings of ultra- ba (hons) fashion illustr ation

masculinity, success and authority. Its At the 2014 Oscars, Lupita Nyongo
4
symbol of power and status - adopted stole the show in her sky blue, Grecian
womenswear by harriet oconnor
by royal families everywhere - can be Prada pleated gown. Different shades ba (hons) fashion design technology: womenswear
photogr aph: orsolya luca
attributed to its novelty as a colour. of blue were the colours of choice for
a string of other Hollywood starlets,
The manufacture of blue dyes began like Sandra Bullock, who wore a navy
in Egypt but the recipe for this was blue Alexander McQueen gown.
lost in the Middle Ages. Its sheer rarity
and cost to produce gave Blue its Whatever your opinion of Blue may
aristocratic associations. be, there is power in this colour. Just
look at Facebook.
As a heraldic colour, Blue or azure
represents the sapphire jewel, as
well as signifying piety and sincerity.
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1

DRAMATIC
FLOURISHES

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Sir Norman Hartnell and
the Royal family wardrobe:
Fashions First Knight

Rebekah Cheng

Infamous for dressing the beau monde 1923. A few years later, he received
and a favourite amongst the royals, his first royal commission from Lady
Sir Norman Hartnell designed with Alice Montagu-Douglass-Scott, then
opulence and adorned his handiwork fianc of the Kings youngest son, the
with lavish detail. One of his most Duke of Gloucester. Hartnell designed
celebrated pieces continues to be her pearl pink satin wedding dress
the wedding dress of then Princess and crucially, dresses for her young
Elizabeth in 1947, for her marriage to bridesmaids, Princess Elizabeth and
Prince Philip embroidered with ten Margaret. This opened the door to a
thousand seed pearls, no less. distinguished relationship between the
designer and the royal family, right
Born in 1901 in Streatham, south until his death.
west London, Hartnell attended Mill
Hill School followed by Magdalene Throughout his career, though
College at Cambridge where he Hartnell gained remarkable media
read Modern Languages. Though attention, his credentials as a couture
he left without a degree, he gained designer were largely overlooked.
recognition by designing costumes for Critics say his relationship with the
the celebrated Cambridge University House of Windsor restricted his hartnell at work in his london
studio during wartime
Footlights Dramatic Club. Catching creative flair and left him boxed into
the eye of the Evening Standard, they irrelevance as fashion changed with
acknowledged him as the British the times. Nevertheless, Hartnells
dress genius of the future. business continued even after his
passing, with support from Queen
Despite the attention, Hartnell Elizabeth II, the Queen Mother and a
struggled to get a job in fashion. With string of unwavering royals.
the help of his family, he opened his
first boutique along Bruton Street in

I despise simplicity. 2

It is the negation of 1

all that is beautiful.


Womenswear by Luke Bullen
BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Womenswear
Photogr aph: James Rees

Womenswear by Ruri Watanabe


BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Womenswear
- Sir Norman Hartnell Photogr aph: James Rees

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ETERNAL EMBROIDERY:
the craft that spans
the centuries from the
earliest court of dress
through to Elie Saab

Janine Bartels

Dating back to the middle ages, The delicate embroidered motifs 1

lavishly embroidered textiles were were not only confined to the British Womenswear by Henriett Juhasz
BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Womenswear
commissioned for the royalty and Courts, but China had recognized Photogr aph: Orsolya Luca

nobility. Little of the luxurious clothing embroidery as a symbolized social


has survived from the past, but status during the Shang Dynasty.
the pieces that have withstood the China is recognized for the discovery
test of time date back to the 13th of silk, and takes credit for being
century and onwards. This early the epicenter of where the art of
embroidery from England is called embroidery originated.
Opus Anglicanum (English work),
and it was produced by professional Looking back, people admire the
embroiderers. Preceding this, amateur sense of craftsmanship that appeared
needlewoman had embroidered as centuries before. However, the craft
early as the 8th century. of embroidery still exits today and is
a signature of Elie Saab. The Haute
During the peak period of Opus Couture house creates decorative
Anglicanum, it was as coveted as princess gowns composed of the
paintings and goldsmiths works. finest lace and silk organza, and
Embroidery was not confined to tremblante with sequins. Floor length
the elaborate silk and and velvet dresses are adorned with paillettes,
garments, but also decorated the pearls and cabochons gemstones -
fabric of furnishings. Eventually come one Elie Saab wedding dress with its
the 15th century, demand exceeded exquisite embroidery and fragile tulle
production and embroiders were can take up to three months to create
forced to develop work quicker using with a whole team of embroiders
easier methods that involved creating manning the looms. The art of the
smaller embroidery on separate linens craft survives.
that were later stitched onto more
luxurious fabrics.

Embroidered Panel Morris and Company Wom ans summer robe embroidery detail Elie Sa ab Wedding Dress
Paris Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2012
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TSARINAS &
KOKOCHINKS

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LA VIEILLE RUSSIES

Stephanie King

A long way from the dress of 19th for which the Ballets Russes became
and 20th century Tsarinas, womens renowned for exploring. And in 1909
fashion today may not resemble that when Serge Diaghilev first founded
of Imperial Russia, but its current the company, such an approach was
designs are certainly not without revolutionary. Now, the Ballets Russes
strong Eastern European influences. is regarded as the 20th centurys
Whether its a nod to traditional most innovative dance company,
folkwear or a riff off costumes worn owing to its unique set designs,
during Ballets Russes performances, dance and music choreography,
modern clothing is flourished with and costumes. Noted artists such as Chanel Paris-Moscou Collection, 2009

elements from Russias eventful history. Natalia Goncharova, Pablo Picasso,


Most notably, the relatively recent Henri Matisse and Giorgio de Chirico
Pre-Fall 09 collection by esteemed designed garments for the Ballets
French fashion house Chanel. dancers, with Mademoiselle Coco
herself creating two knitted bathing
The Parisian labels Paris-Moscou suits for the 1924 production, The
line imagined by Creative Director Blue Train. Even then, the overlap
Karl Lagerfeld is an homage to between Russian art culture and
its founder, Coco Chanel and fashion was evident.
her affinity for Slavic culture and
Byzantine artefacts. Pearl-and- Presently fashion newcomers Christian
diamant-embellished coats, metallic Siriano and Eudon Choi have revisited
Cossack boots, fur ushankas and traditional Slavic costume in their
shapkas, and dresses adorned in AW13 lines, with several high street
Faberg egg jewel detailing are labels also adopting the trend. The
examples of Chanels modern rise of street style photography
interpretation of Russias heritage. has encouraged a small group of
Fashion giants Dior, John Galliano Russian editors and oligarchettes to
and Kenzos similarly themed AW09 be dubbed the Russian fashpack.
collections were equally dripping in Their recently acquired fame has John Galliano, fall 2009

inspiration from Russias royal past, helped to remind Western society of


but they also bear the signature of its the Eastern European nations creative
other significant, cultural contribution: value. That, in combination with the
the Ballets Russes. ever-resurfacing Russian theme within
prominent design labels collections,
The designs shown on the Fall will continue to inspire the presence
runways of these labels hint at the art of Eastern European culture within
movements of post-Impressionism, everyday fashion.
Cubism and Constructivism; concepts

M adeleine Ross-M asson


BA (Hons) Costume for Perfor m ance
Photogr aph: Orsolya Luca

Contour by Basm a M asri


BA (Hons) Fashion Contour
Photogr aph: James Rees Dancers in Chanel for Le Tr ain Bleu, 1924

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RED FOR
A DIVA

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Red: Diva drama
from centre stage

Stephanie King

Red is rarely an accident. When a film Who Framed Roger Rabbit?, or


women wears red her intention is real-life sex symbol Marilyn Monroe
almost always to draw attention. in her sequinned Gentlemen Prefer
The hues shocking tone immediately Blondes (1953) gown: we immediately
captures the eye, and it is this exact know their outfits because of their
reason why the colour red has bold colour. Equally it is hard to forget
become a significant part of fashion other historic uniforms such as Little
history. Worn by opera singers for Red Riding Hood and Santa Claus.
centuries, donned by Hollywood
starlets from the 1920s, and Two fashion designers that have
sported by todays celebrities on made their own shades of rouge GENTLEMEN PREFER BLONDES (1953)

endless red carpets; the performing synonymous with their name are
arts and red go hand in hand given Valentino Garavani and Christian
rouges ability to make any garment Louboutin. The latter French shoe
(and its wearer) standout. designer made his coveted footwear
instantly identifiable by their red soles,
Three famed examples include where Italian design veteran Valentino
Mary Callas crimson velvet gown in is renowned for his own colour
Puccinis Tosca (1964), Julia Roberts creation of Valentino red, an intense
in her Pretty Woman (1990) scarlet scarlet with a hint of crimson. What is
chiffon dress, or Nicole Kidman in it about the colour red that makes it
Balenciagas tomato-tone bow neck such a powerful hue? Fundamentally,
gown at the 2007 Academy Awards. red represents the spectrum of human
Each of these ensembles was perfect feeling from passion and love to
for making a grand entrance, not to anger and mortality. It evokes such
mention keeping all eyes on them. strong emotional responses, and is
consequently associated with sexuality,
Aside from its initial shock value, red power, happiness and danger.
also has a lasting impact. People no
matter their age will remember the Over time, red has become more than
iconic slippers from The Wizard of Oz a primary colour; its now an emblem.
(1939), and recall they were not silver For whatever reason red may be worn, little red riding hood

or gold or blue; they were red. It is one thing is always guaranteed: it will
the same with illustrated bombshell always draw stares.
Jessica Rabbits costume in the 1988

Womenswear by Kenji Lau


BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Womenswear
Photogr aph: Catalin Plesa

Womenswear by Kenji Lau


BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Womenswear
Photogr aph: Catalin PlesA

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EXIT
DRAMA

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EXIT DRAMA: from the bustle
of Worth through to
Schiaparelli to Zac Posen
the exit can be as important
as the entrance

Janine Bartels

As air-kisses cease, voices lower, and the music, and the order in which 1

cameras are armed at the ready garments appear down the runway. Womenswear by Shabnam Eslambolchi
BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Womenswear
the fashion show is about to begin. The exit is also as important for each Photogr aph: Orsolya Luca

Although the audience anticipates the individual model, as she turns to


2
first model to step onto the runway, it walk back down the runway, focus is
Womenswear by Kimberly Tham
will be the final model that leaves the drawn to the back of the garment. BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Womenswear
Photogr aph: Orsolya Luca
lasting impression. The rear view is not to be
underestimated; it has the ability to
The first designer to employ a live hold gazes, and as the model poses
model to showcase his latest creations before exiting it will be the last
was no other than Charles Fredrick chance for a photo opportunity.
Worth. In 1848, the couturier
redesigned uniforms for Maison For the grand finale, all the models
Gagelin and paid one of the female will come out consecutively,
shop assistants, Marie Vernet, to showcasing the collection as a
model for him. He later married whole and triggering the memory
Vernet and opened the House of the audience, reminding them of
of Worth in 1858, attracting the first garment that stepped out onto
attention of empresses and all the the stage a mere 15 minutes prior.
blue bloods of the time. However, the models are not the last
to leave the runway, the designer is.
Originally, live models were an As the creative mastermind behind
important tactic to demonstrate the collection bids au revoir to the
how the garment is worn. However, elite crowd he/she usually exits with a
since the early days of Worth a customary wave or a bow.
fashion show has evolved into a fully
fledged form of entertainment. Well As shows have become more
ahead of her time, Elsa Schiaparelli innovative through location, staging,
was turning fashion shows into a and elaborate runways that models
performance, hiring acrobats for her can weave through, the fashion show
1938 collection Circus. has become a performance and every
designer is vying to stand out. Whats
There is a considerable amount of the secret? Its all in the exit.
behind-the-scenes production that
happens during a fashion show.
Designers choreograph their runways,
carefully selecting the models,

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HEADPIECES

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Headpieces: from tiara to turban, even on formal
occasions headwear is often the finishing touch

Rebekah Cheng

Headwear began for practical reasons who challenged their own role in The latter, famous for purchasing 1

- protection against the climate and society - saw skirts being shortened, Alexander McQueens entire graduate Headwear by Willow Bunton
BA (Hons) M ake-up and
on occasion, people - but for the slits cut higher and crucially, the collection, designed headpieces and Prosthetics for Perfor m ance
Photogr aph: Catalin Plesa
most part, was affiliated with womanly popularity of the cloche: a bell- fascinators that defied convention.
decorum. Whilst the social necessity shaped, fitted hat that was adopted A piece which often gets singled out 2

of wearing a headpiece has since even by high fashion house Lanvin. is her Ship Hat, structured entirely Headwear by Alex andr a Druzhinin
MA Fashion Artefact
declined, it is interesting to note how The latter is important because it from feathers. Blows designs pushed Photogr aph: James Rees

this accessory has evolved from status could only be worn with short hair - boundaries and in many ways, was an
symbol to empowerment piece and something which society once frowned expression of her eccentricities and
now, works of art. upon. In a way, the cloche not only following her death, were admired as
set a new trend but inadvertently pieces of art.
Take for example, the tiara - worn challenged social norms, empowering
as a type of an adornment among women to be who they wanted to be. The use of headwear as a statement
the Royal and noble ranks - which art piece is now many an artists raison
exemplifies social status and wealth, While the effect of the 1920s wore off, ddtre (on the red carpet at least).
especially when lavished with pearl the fashion for adorning ones coiffure True of Lady Gaga especially, when
drops, emeralds and diamonds. with something special never faltered. she wore an outfit made entirely of
Nevertheless, in popular culture The late Princess of Wales herself meat - complete with matching raw
today the tiara has slightly different didnt shy away from adding her own beef hat - to the 2010 MTV Video
connotations. For instance, the warrior spin to the trend - from her turban- Music Awards. Either way, whether as
princess of the Amazons (or Wonder inspired royal blue topper she wore a piece of steak or surrounded by a
Woman), uses her tiara as a weapon while on tour in Dubai to a white, plume of feathers, headwear - more
and telepathic shield - a symbol of sailor-type hat she donned at the La often than not - tends to steal the show.
power, if you like. Spezia navel base in Italy - Diana
certainly reinvigorated the hat scene,
This association was also seen during perhaps setting the stage in Britain for
the liberation of the Roaring Twenties. designer, Isabella Blow.
The emergence of Flappers - women

Fashion is a vampiric thing, its the hoover


on your br ain. Thats why I wear the hats, to
keep everyone away from me.
- Isabella Blow queen elizabeth ii (1953) Lynda carter as wonderwom an (1975) Cloche hat as worn by silent Princess of wales (1989)
film star Vilm a Bnky, 1927

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THE ROMANCE
OF THE
CRINOLINE

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Crinolines and Ballgowns from Charles
Frederick Worth the founding father of
couture through to the New Look of Dior
and the enormous skirts of Marchesa this
tiny bodice and huge skirt of every little girls
dreams says a fashion constant.

Rebekah Cheng

The latter included the introduction of they would stylise. I accentuated the
the crinoline - designed to shape and waist, the volume of the hips and
support ones skirt - worn beneath day emphasised the bust. In order to give
dresses and evening ballgowns. The my models more hold, I had nearly all
British social season naturally involved fabrics lined with percale or taffeta,
many of these gowns - particularly renewing a tradition that had long
at Dbutante cotillions - and was been abandoned. - Christian Dior
inevitably a required state of dress
when being presented to the King and Indeed, the ballgown not only
Queen. One can only imagine the reinvigorated womanly sensuality
difficulties these ladies faced when in dress but also helped define the
exiting their carriages! careers of many of its makers. Take
for example, Hubert de Givenchy,
The 20s saw the death of such who designed Audrey Hepburns gown
formalities including the corset. For in the classic movie, Sabrina (1954).
this, credit goes to Coco Chanel He went on to design the rest of her
who in her own words, let go of the wardrobe (in all her movies), including AUDREY HEPBURN IN GIVENCHY DRESS
SABRINA, 1954
waistline. Two decades later, this that famous wedding gown in Funny
was perhaps forgotten. In the Spring Face (1957).
of 1947, Christian Dior presented
his first collection in Paris to much While the art of dress continues
acclaim and wide-eyed wonder. to evolve in this age of fashion
Cinched waists and bust-enhancing transience, there has been a
cuts revolutionised the silhouettes of constant in the decadence and
women across the world. This New creation of ballgowns - from the
Look - a term credited to then editor- ever-ethereal Marchesa with endless
in-chief of Harpers Bazaar, Carmel tulle and delicate beadwork to
Snow - paved a way for a new kind of the Lebanese genius that is Reem
fashionable dress: Acra, whose designs are worn by
many a Hollywood leading lady on
I wanted my dresses to be red carpets across the globe. The
constructed, moulded on the curves ball gown is here to stay and we
of the female body whose contours completely approve.

MASIE NOBLE
BA (HONS) FASHION ILLUSTRATION

The ballgown. A vestige, true, of


aristocr atic past, but also for 1

a long time the source of much Costume by Ruby Vestry


BA (Hons) Costume for Perfor m ance 2014
Photogr aph: Orsolya Luca

experimentation in fashion. 2

Womenswear by Cassey Gan


BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Womenswear
- Daphne Guinness Photogr aph: James Rees

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1

GRANDEUR
AT COURT

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Fashion at Court
in Great Britain

Rebekah Cheng

From side-hooped dresses to velvet suits with white bow ties, a result of the procession was highly
crinolines and ostrich feathers, court paired with fine silk stockings and sought after, well worth the hours
fashion was the most lavish form of steel-cut buckled boots. Court Dress of waiting to be called forward to
dress in late 18th- and 19th century for women always involved a long the Throne Room.
Great Britain. Attendees of official decorated train, no less than three
state affairs wore Court Dress, with yards in length from the shoulders. Towards the end of the 19th century,
the exception of those entitled to Ladies adorned their hair with feather Court Dress became less opulent given
Court Uniform (e.g. Members of the plumes, wore white veils or lace a diminishing need to wear it. The
Royal Household, the Civil Service, lappets and accessorised with mother- effects of the First and Second World
the Privy Council etc.) The former of-pearl fans. War further transformed the rigid
determined ones social status customs that for so long controlled
and was a reflection of political In particular, at Leves hosted the British Court and its practices.
importance, usually worn by those by the Princes of Wales for the The continued informality of the 21st
in the royal circle and aristocratic presentation of gentlemen and century has seen an even greater
high society. Court Presentations (the equivalent erosion of rigid fashion protocol at
for women) to the Queen, these dress Court, although on occasion tradition
Indeed, this was strictly adhered to codes were religiously followed; the still takes precedence in the age of
following the publication of Dress promise of a kiss on the cheek from fashion transience.
Worn at Court by Lord Chamberlain Her Majesty was too prized a reward
in 1882. Gentlemen wore black not to. The social prestige gained as

Womenswear by Tar ang Bharti


BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Womenswear
Photogr aph: James Rees

Isabella Cotier - Costumedress


BA (Hons) Fashion Illustr ation

Womenswear by M aewa Uhlm ann


BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Womenswear
Photogr aph: James Rees

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1

Statement
fashion

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STATEMENT FASHION/DRESSING

Stephanie King

The act, or art, of dressing has been The Spring/Summer and Autumn/
long accepted as a form of self Winter collections of Jil Sander,
expression, a visual showcase of Prada, Mary Katrantzou and Peter
individual identity. From 80s power Pilotto, for example, have consisted
dressing, to flirty 20s flapper styles of loud patterns in shocking hues and
and sequin-abundant pieces worn striking prints, where the advent of
at Studio 54 during the 70s, clothes e-commerce websites and street style
have always served as the perfect photography has quickly encouraged
medium for illustrating personal style. an ostentatious way of dressing to
Making a statement is never easier become a worldwide phenomenon.
than through ones fashion choices, So much so, that it prompted OBE-
which allow wearers to communicate awarded fashion journalist Suzy
their beliefs and attitudes as Menkes to pen a scathing article in
eccentrically or as conservatively as T Magazine on the peacocking she
they desire. observed at Fashion Weeks, titled
The Circus of Fashion.
Sociologist Georg Simmel first
noted in his 1904 American To combat the extravagant mode of M ary K atr antzou
LOreal Melbourne Fashion Festival 2013
Journal of Sociology article, dress dominating todays runways
Fashion that clothing is used as and rues, the latest trend dubbed
a way of demonstrating wealth and normcore has arisen, inspiring the
demarcating oneself although not masses to let go of their need to
too drastically from others. And this look distinctive. While renowned,
is no more apparent than in the ever- flamboyant Italian editors Anna Dello
distinctive dress styles of upper social Russo and the late Anna Piaggi may
classes. Throughout the decades not embrace its trademark stylised
individuals with significant financial blandness, normcore has offered
means have, and will continue to, society another interesting sartorial
heavily influence the adoption of perspective. Yet what is perhaps the
certain fashion trends in everyday life. most encouraging, is the growing
acceptance of different senses of
Featuring prominently in recent years style, which is the biggest fashion
has been an overtly bold design statement of all.
aesthetic from the worlds best fashion
labels, both NEWGEN and old.

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Menswear by Alexis Housden


BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Menswear
Photogr aph: James Rees

Cloud dress
Isabella Cotier
BA (Hons) Fashion Illustr ation

Womenswear by Daniel Pascal Tanner


BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Womenswear
Photogr aph: James Rees

44
1

THE LURE
OF THE
EXOTIC

46 47
The Lure of the Exotic

Stephanie King

Decorative trinkets from far off Interestingly, styles that were 1

destinations, curious and beautiful considered exotic centuries ago still Linda Awuku
BA (Hons) Fashion Textiles
creatures from remote locations: remain fashionable. Most notably is Photogr aph: James Rees

the treasures of faraway lands Queen of the Nile Cleopatra, who


2
are some of the most enticing in introduced Roman-style gowns and
Faye van Andel
existence. For centuries these forms coin jewellery into dress worn in Egypt BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Womenswear
photogr aphy: JAMES REES
of exotic inspiration have captured an exotic location in its own right.
the imagination of fashions biggest Nowadays however, it is Cleopatras 3

names. The late Elsa Schiaparelli and trademark kohl-lined cat eyes and Womenswear by Luke Bullen
BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Womenswear
Christian Lacroix are two influential heavily cuffed forearms that are often PHOTOGRAPHY: Catalin Plesa

designers who frequently incorporated adopted; but these two modes of


4
uncommon textiles and materials into dress also had exotic origins.
Womenswear by Kenji Lau
their designs. Unusual animal skins or BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Womenswear
PHOTOGRAPHY: Catalin Plesa
at the very least, their print patterns, Clearly there is something universal
were prominent features of Lacroix and enduring about the exotic. Perhaps
and Schiaparellis pieces, where underlying its enchanting nature is
Schiaparelli especially was famed its implicit rarity. Fashion made from
for her collection of travel souvenirs. unusual materials or at least, inspired
Cultures of the world, namely by unusual materials makes the
architecture and traditional dress of piece even more appealing because
distant cities/communities, significantly that uncommonness, that difficulty
influenced their work and that of to acquire its components, simply
future design houses. amplifies the pieces desirability.

Whether it is alligator, eel, python, If nothing else, designs constructed


crocodile, lizard or ostrich, todays from or featuring exotic elements
fashion labels also show a strong are guaranteed to garner attention.
fascination with the exotic. Be it in Its highly likely that their allure will
coat, bag or shoe form, the luxury prove irresistible.
Italian labels Roberto Cavalli,
Bottega Veneta, Gucci and Fendi are
particularly renowned for their work
with these expensive hides, with British
luxury label Jimmy Choo equally
celebrated for its exotic offerings.

Christian Lacroix, 2008 Ostrich leather Kelly bag by Her ms ELIZABETH TAYLOR IN CLEOPATRA, 1963

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WHITE
THROUGHOUT
LIFE

53
White: From Cradle to Grave

Stephanie King

From the vanilla hued togas of cloud-like tone possesses so many where in ancient Egypt white linen was Today such a convention isnt strictly
the court of the Roman Empire, to connotations that it is universally used for the Egyptians burial process adhered to, and indeed, neither is the
the snow-tone outfits worn by the adaptable, representing concepts from of mummification. In Christianity UK tennis tournament Wimbledons
Queen of England to open a new perfection, the good and futurism, however, white is considered a symbol requirement for its players to solely
session of Parliament, world history to honesty, minimalism and virginity. of surrender and sacrifice, as it is wear white sportswear. However some
is saturated with white. While this believed that Christ sacrificed himself current fashion designers have made
neutral shades validity as an official In film history, however, some of the for the sins of mankind. According to the colour an unofficial uniform
colour is frequently questioned, white silver screens iconic white costumes the Bible, Christ was resurrected three within their lines.
is, surprisingly, a combination of all have been far from innocent, with days following his crucifixion, which
of the colours; it is a product of all of Marilyn Monroes alluring Seven Year is why white has also been connected Calvin Klein and Narciso Rodriguez,
the different light wavelengths in the Itch (1955) halter dress perhaps the to the idea of new beginnings. As especially, use the minimalist tone
visible spectrum. most memorable of all. A few years a result white is often worn during as a signature, and their trademark
later in 1962, a white bikini-clad Christenings and religious ceremonies, all-white looks were recently joined by
Whites inherent purity makes it the Ursula Andress captured audiences where in the 19th century Queen others: 2014s runways were frosted
symbol of innocence, where young attention in the James Bond film, Dr Victoria popularised wedding dresses with head-to-toe white ensembles
debutantes exclusively wear white No. But it was really Sharon Stones of a pearl-esque hue. from Alexander Wang, Chlo, Victoria
dresses to commemorate their entre leg crossing scene in Basic Instinct Beckham, Christian Dior and Peter
into high society. This is, of course, (1992) that shocked movie goers, During the same era white was equally Som. After all of its previous uses,
a modern day evolution of the when she revealed it was only the polo fashionable overseas, but only for a these luxury labels still consider white
powdered wigs and milky-white gowns neck slip dress that she was wearing. certain period of the year: ever heard a colour that some perceive as
worn by nobility during the 18th Undoubtedly the updated application the phrase, No wearing white after boring as anything but bland. After
century Rococo period. Today, white is of white could not be further from its Labor Day? From the late 1800s all, theres got to be a reason why one
relied upon habitually for its versatility, traditional use. summer in America was the only of fashions most famous designers,
with classic wardrobe staples such as acceptable time to don any shade of Coco Chanel, wore white year-round.
the white button-down shirt or t-shirt In Eastern cultures, the ghostly tone is blanc. Why? The aristocrats believed it
regarded as essential basics. The associated with death and mourning, should remain exclusive to resort wear.

Menswear by Alexis Housden


BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Menswear
Photogr aph: James Rees

Womenswear by Robin Siggesson


BA (Hons) Fashion Design Technology: Womenswear
Photogr aph: James Rees

54 2
LONDON . NEW YORK . DUBAI . SHANGHAI . FLORENCE

www.arts.ac.uk/fashion/channel