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Contents AUGUST 2010

40
28 Features 20
35 20 LA BINOCHE
Juliette Binoche believes that women reach their prime in their forties, and she
definitely lives up to that with a career that just seems to keep getting better.
BY MARTIN GANI

28 GANG DAD
What is a father to do when his son becomes involved with a gang? In Jerry
Wheeler’s case you fight all the way, even if it means taking on South Los Angeles’
gangland. BY JIM CALIO

35 HEALING ART
Angola was once known for its civil war but today the country is a modern
democracy. Luanda, the capital, is gearing up to host its second Triennial that
aims to put the country on the art map. BY LOUISE REDVERS

40 MADRID’S GOURMET TOUR DE FORCE

The Spanish capital is renowned for style, glamour, fashion and beauty. Plus it
has a fantastic restaurant scene with some famous Michelin-starred chefs creating
culinary masterpieces. BY SCOTT ADAM

August 2010 1

COVER PHOTO: CORBIS
Published for Emirates by
PO Box 2331, Dubai, UAE.
Telephone: (+971 4) 2824060,
fax:(+971 4) 2824436,
e-mail: emirates@motivate.ae
2 Open Skies
Regulars
05 TRAVEL SHORTS World Matters
08 WANDERLUST Los Gigantes, Canary Islands
10 WORLD CALENDAR Events to Diarise
12 WELL TRAVELLED Wilfred Thesiger
14 STREET STYLE São Paulo
16 MY WORLD Noriko Tsuiki, Living Treasure
18 CELEBRITY CITY Taher Qassim’s Liverpool
48 48 HOURS in Singapore
52 DUBAI DIARY The Hot List
54 COOL STUFF Mighty Sounds
56 DEPARTURE Lac Rose
Emirates News
59 The latest news and
information about Emirates,
helpful travel tips and its
global network.
12 48 54
16 56
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Yoga Helps Cancer Survivors
Cancer survivors might want to try yoga to improve
the quality of their sleep and promote energy levels,
according to a new US study. Researchers from the
University of Rochester Medical Center in New York
randomly selected around 400 cancer survivors who
had been treated with chemotherapy for breast cancer,
and assigned them into two groups. The first group
did gentle Hatha yoga and restorative yoga, which
included breathing and meditation exercises, while
members of the second group were merely observed
as they followed standard practice, which does not
include yoga. Participants who did yoga managed to
reduce the amount of sleeping pills and generally slept
better. Results also indicated a 22 per cent increase
in sleep quality on a commonly used scale. This was
double the improvement of survivors who didn’t do the
yoga exercises and postures.
Moreover, yoga was shown
to decrease fatigue
levels by almost half,
and contributed to
a better quality of
life. “We really don’t
have any good
remedies for fatigue
for cancer survivors,”
said Karen Mustian, the
researcher who led the study.
It is still unclear though
how yoga achieves
its relaxing effects.
travelshorts
CULTURE ICON
The tuk-tuk is Thailand’s ubiquitous three-wheel scooter bike,
named after the sound of its two-stroke engine while idling.
It is a popular mode of transport with locals and visitors alike
and has an edge over taxis because its compact size allows it
to nip through gaps in the traffic to decrease the travel time.
The ride in this open-sided three-wheeler is as exciting
as it’s nerve-racking as there are no seat belts and they can
rattle and jerk precariously. But it’s a fun experience and most
visitors have it on their must-do list. Many tourists can be seen
taking photos while sitting in this authentic Thai taxi.
Not only is the ride much cheaper than in a car but also
pleasant if you are riding out of a smoggy town. Nothing beats
an early morning tuk-tuk ride through the tropical countryside
with a cool wind on your face.
You can lean back and enjoy the ride but be sure not to rest
your feet on the rail near the driver’s head as in Thailand it is a
taboo to touch people on the head or point your feet toward
someone. Also it’s best to discuss the price before the journey
and drivers won’t take offence at haggling.

Superlatively Speaking
The Five Most Expensive Cities for Expatriates in the World
(In a comparative cost of over 200 items in each location, including housing, transport, food, clothing, household goods and entertainment.)

Luanda, Angola Tokyo, Japan Ndjamena, Chad Moscow, Russia Geneva, Switzerland
Monthly cost to rent a Monthly cost to rent a Monthly cost to rent a Monthly cost to rent a Monthly cost to rent a
luxury two-bedroom luxury two-bedroom luxury two-bedroom luxury two-bedroom luxury two-bedroom
apartment: $7,000 apartment: $4,436.42 apartment: $6,000 apartment: $3,600 apartment: $4,010.75
Cup of coffee: $3.80 Cup of coffee: $6.65 Cup of coffee: $3.12 Cup of coffee: $8.29 Cup of coffee: $5.13
Two movie tickets: $26 Two movie tickets: Two movie tickets: $27 Two movie tickets: Two movie tickets:
Fast-food hamburger: $39.93 Fast-food hamburger: $26.53 $29.85
$17.50 Fast-food hamburger: $26.53 Fast-food hamburger: Fast-food hamburger:
$7.21 $5.67 $10.54

August 2010 5
travelshorts
The Gulf’s First Bicycle City
Cyclists in Doha have good
reason to get excited as the Qatari
capital is preparing to become
the region’s first bicycle-friendly
city. “We have worked out the
Qatar National Bicycle Master
Plan to make Qatar the centre
of bicycles in the Middle East,”
said Sa’ad Mohammad Khodr,
senior transportation engineer at
the Ministry of Municipality and
Urban Planning. According to a

ju·bi·lant
showing great joy, satisfaction, or
exultant: the cheers of the jubilant victors;
the jubilant climax of his symphony.
ISTOCK PHOTO
statement he made at the Meed
Qatar Transport Project 2010, the
city has already started setting up
bike lanes by reconstructing the existing roads to facilitate bicycle
lanes, ensuring safety for cyclists. However, the large number of
roundabouts represents a challenge to the project. Khodr confirmed
that the plan includes both short-term and long-term solutions, such
as developing under-path cycle routes. “It’s not just the bicycle as
a means of transportation, but it’s about creating more chances
for people to have enjoyable leisure time,” he explained. Blessed
with year-round sunshine and perfect winters, Qatar’s climate will
encourage cyclists to use their bikes for daily trips, whether it’s for
pleasure or commuting. Cycling is especially popular with young
boys and Asian expatriates, who tend to favour it for getting to work.
Moreover, the activity is of great advantage to general health and will
have a significantly positive impact on the environment.

TRAVEL TIP WHEN IN ROME...

5 EASY WAYS TO IMPROVE YOUR HOLIDAY PHOTOS In Japan, don’t start drinking
1. With a new camera, familiarise yourself with the functions before your until everyone at the table
trip. Read the manual and work out all the features. is served and the glasses are
2. When photographing a landscape, make the foreground interesting. raised to toast. The Japanese
You could have a rock, tree or even a statue in focus or a shot of a person drinking salute is usually
doing something relating to the landscape, such as a fisherman tending his ‘Kampai!’
nets against the backdrop of an ocean view.
In the Czech Republic, do wish
3. Go beyond the posed picture. Photos are about remembering moments, your dining partners ‘dobrou
not just places. Shots of companions in action will capture the fun of a trip. chut’, which is a general
4. Get as close as you can to your subject. Try to zoom in and fill your translation of Bon Appetit.
frame and get sharper images.
In Spain, do expect a kiss on
5. Plan your outdoor photos for the
each cheek (starting with the
first and last hour of sunlight. Midday
left cheek) or a hug from a
sun tends to make pictures flat and
woman you are familiar with.
shapeless. The day’s ‘golden hours’
Expect a pat on the back or a
give objects more shape and
quick hug from a man you are
definition.
familiar with.
 Official Agent
Abu Dhabi - Khalidia Mall, Abu Dhabi – Abu Dhabi Mall: 6452080,
Dubai - Wafi City, Burjuman (SAKS), Burj Al Arab, Dubai, Al Maktoum St., Tel: 2236525,
Emirates Tower, Madinat Jumeirah, Mina Al Salam,
Mall of the Emirates & Dubai Mall Royal Majesty, Al Ghurair City: 2275181

Kuwait: Majestic Palace: 2403239, Damascus: 011 - 3334930, Beirut: Damas: 01 - 330888, Bahrain: Asia Jewellers: 534444,
Turkey: Empire Istanbul: 212 - 2313542, Airport: 4654291, Singapore: Hysek Boutique: Unit # 01-57, The Shoppes at
Marina Bay Sands, 2 Bayfront Avenue, Ph: +65 6688 7077, hyseksg@hysek.com, www.hysek.com
 wanderlust
Los Gigantes, Canary Islands
If you have a head for heights or simply love stunning scenery,
then Tenerife, one of the Canary Islands, might be just the place
for you. Los Gigantes (The Giants) on the island’s west coast,
is a popular resort town named after the vertigo inducing rock
PHOTO: CORBIS
cliffs that rise straight out of the sea to a height of 800 metres.
One way to get close to the cliffs is by boat, at which point you
8 Open Skies
will realise just how enormous they are. Or, if you like heights,
you can walk along a trail close to Los Gigantes’ edge that takes
about 25 minutes and finishes at the water’s edge. The early
inhabitants of Tenerife thought that the cliffs were sacred and
ancient writers like Homer and Virgil believed that they marked
the end of the world. ❖
 worldcalendar
September 2010
Highlights of global events for the month ahead.
1-11, WEDNESDAY
LA BIENNALE DI VENEZIA
The hunt is on for the coveted Golden Lion as the
67th Venice International Film Festival gets into gear.
Expect some fireworks as Quentin Tarantino will chair
the international jury. His colleague, John Woo, will
receive the Golden Lion Lifetime Achievement Award.
labiennale.org
2-5, THURSDAY
2010 FISA WORLD ROWING MASTERS REGATTA
Around 3,000 athletes, aged from 27 to 75 plus, will
participate in this four-day event held at St Catharines
in Canada. A great atmosphere surrounds this
competition where rowers from all walks of life show
their strokes.
2010fisaworldrowingmasters.com
8-11, WEDNESDAY
LADBROKES ST. LEGER FESTIVAL
The 2010 Ladbrokes St. Leger is the highlight of
the year at the UK’s Doncaster Racecourse. The
four-day event is filled with top class racing, great
entertainment, fashion and the St. Leger Race itself,
the world’s oldest classic.
doncaster-racecourse.co.uk
9-11, THURSDAY
QORMI BREAD FESTIVAL
The aroma of freshly baked bread from wood-fired
ovens fills the air of Qormi, Malta’s bread capital.
This well-attended event will feature exhibitions,
entertainment and organised tours to participating
bakeries to sample all things baked.
qormibreadfestival.org
10 SEPTEMBER-17 OCTOBER, FRIDAY
BOOMFEST
St Petersburg goes animation-crazy during the
annual Boomfest, as the city celebrates the
comic-book genre. Museums, galleries, streets
and parks light up with exhibitions of the animated
arts, while cinemas show contemporary and
classic animated films.
boomfest.ru/en
10 Open Skies
15-26, WEDNESDAY
INTERNATIONALES LITERATURFESTIVAL BERLIN
This year Berlin’s 10th literature festival will focus on
Eastern Europe. More than 100 authors from 50 plus
countries participate in 200 events over 12 days,
allowing audiences insights into their work, prose
and poetry.
literaturfestival.com
16-19, THURSDAY
FINA SYNCHRONISED SWIMMING WORLD CUP
The world’s elite synchronised swimmers will gather
in Changshu, China, to compete for the Synchro
World Cup title. The international competition will be
held at the Changshu Sports Centre and features
solo, team and combination events.
fina.org
24-28, FRIDAY
HERMANUS WHALE FESTIVAL
Droves of visitors and locals descend on the cliff
tops around Walker Bay in South Africa to watch the
Southern Right whales migrate along these shores.
It’s also an excellent time to enjoy the best of African
music, food and hospitality.
sa-venues.com/events
26, SUNDAY
BAY TO BIRDWOOD
About 1,500 gleaming vintage vehicles manufactured
before 1955 will line up for the 30th installment of
Australia’s greatest motoring event. It’s the place
to mingle with car owners, admire vehicles at the
Councourse d’ Elegance and participate in The Run
from Adelaide.
baytobirdwood.com.au
30-3 OCTOBER, THURSDAY
ÖLANDS SKÖRDEFEST
Öland, Sweden’s second largest island, will in
customary fashion celebrate its rich harvest. More
than 900 activities ranging from a welcome parade to
games and live music will transform the tranquil isle into
a festive hub as food stalls cater well past midnight.
olandsturist.se/en/Events
 9
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 welltravelled

Wilfred Thesiger
Sir Wilfred Thesiger was an extraordinary explorer. Nick Rice reports on the centenary of the
incomparable nomadic English gentleman whose vast legacy of travel writing and photography
has been preserved for posterity.

Sir Wilfred Thesiger was one of the greatest explorers of the of the world and, perhaps with posterity in mind, became a self-
20th century, if not, as Sir David Attenborough suggests, of any taught master photographer. He documented his extraordinary
era. Attenborough said of Thesiger that he was, “One of the very expeditions and travels in more than 40,000 photographs.
few people who in our time could be put on the pedestal of the Much of his photography, all black and white, is of stunning
great explorers of the 18th and 19th centuries.” landscapes. And yet he preferred to think of these sweeping
Born in Ethiopia, then known as Abyssinia, Thesiger was environments as secondary, “A setting for my portraits of
the son of a British diplomat posted there. He was sent to the people.”
England aged nine and received an elite education at Eton Indeed it was largely for the people that he explored, “It has
and Oxford. However the sights, sounds and smells of his been people, not places, not hunting, not even exploration that
birthplace stayed rooted within him and he yearned for lands have mattered to me most,” he once concluded.
of wild and nomadic glory. To mark the centenary of Thesiger’s birth, the University of
Writing of his childhood Thesiger said: “I am certain that Oxford has opened a year-long exhibition at the Pitt Rivers
the first nine years of my life have influenced everything that Museum, showcasing some of the best examples of Thesiger’s
followed.” One of the spectacles he witnessed as a boy was incredible canon of work.
the Shoan armies marching into battle during the 1916-17 Accompanying the exhibition is the publication of two new
revolution. In his autobiography The Life of My Choice, he books – a centenary edition of Thesiger’s seminal Arabian
wrote: “I believe that day implanted in me a life-long craving Sands and Wilfred Thesiger in Africa. ❖
for barbaric splendour, for savagery and colour and the throb
of drums. It gave me a lasting veneration for long-established
custom and ritual, from which I would derive later a deep-
seated resentment of western innovations in other lands, and
a deep distaste for the drab uniformity of the modern world.”
He returned to Africa aged 20 to attend the coronation of
Emperor Haile Selassie as Honorary Attache to the Duke of
Gloucester, the King’s representative at the coronation. From
that point on he continued to explore much of East Africa and
the Middle East, driven by “the urge to go where no white man
had been.”
Thesiger effectively renounced Western civilisation and was
resolute in how he lived. He traversed thousands of kilometres
across all kinds of terrain by traditional methods only, refusing
to use any type of motorised vehicle and holding disdain for
the march of progress in general. He hated relying on anything
other than himself and the select few trusted countrymen of the
wide lands he travelled. If he was going, he was going on foot.
At most he’d be on four feet, with the assistance of a horse,
mule or camel. He believed in the undertakings of hardship
and withstanding privation to fully appreciate and understand
the lives of those people in whose lands he travelled. Thesiger
distinguished himself above all peers with this uncompromising
willingness and sturdy ability to see and experience life as did
the inhabitants of the places he explored. Rather than observe,
he strove to become.
Thesiger spent 70 years living and roaming in remote corners

12 Open Skies
 streetstyle
São Paulo
The world’s 10th richest city is South America’s style capital.
The organisers of São Paulo’s fashion week describe Brazil as
a leader in ‘fun fashion’, but that’s not exactly what you see on
the street.
The São Paulo style is smart casual, extremely wearable and
personalised by the addition of some funky jewellery and other
14 Open Skies
accessories. Trousers and flowing, free-spirited dresses are the
order of the day and dressing ‘cool’ is driven by necessity.
Brazilian designers rarely strike it rich in North America and
Europe. But in Latin America their clothes rule the roost and they
outsell many of the well-known international labels. That’s where
the fun comes into the local fashion. ❖
roam free
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 myworld
Noriko Tsuiki,
Living National Treasure
eaver Noriko Tsuiki is a ‘Living National Treasure’,
an honour awarded by the Japanese government
in recognition of an individual’s ‘preservation of
important, intangible cultural properties’. Born
in 1952 in Kitakyushu city, South Japan, Tsuiki
studied the basics of Japanese hand-weaving at
Tokyo’s Waseda University, followed by independent
studies in tsumugi-ori (or Chinese silks) and kimono
fabrication. In 1984 she revived the dormant tradition
of weaving kokura-ori: a soft yet tough fabric capable
Tsuiki is often of deflecting arrows that was popular during Japan’s
inspired by nature,
as the names of her feudal era (12th-19th centuries) when it was used
weaves suggest. in the making of samurai’s hakama and obi (robes
Her kimono fabrics
and belts). In 1995 she established the Yuh Textile
are called Ariake
(dawn), Mizubae Studio and has since exhibited in galleries and
(shining water) and competitions across the globe, including Bakuon
Sakura Keshin
(incarnation of a 04 (The Sounds of Waterfalls), a piece housed at
cherry tree). London’s Victoria and Albert Museum and Tanshin
and Bunsuirei kimono sashes at The National
16 Open Skies
Museum of Modern Art in Tokyo. Tsuiki has
also branched out into industrial design, notably
patterning for a Katsuyama bridge in her home
town of Kitakyushu. Sally Howard finds out more.
What first attracted you to a career in textiles?
It wasn’t a direct route. First I joined Waseda University,
Tokyo, on a drama course. Soon I found that it was
the costumes of Noh plays (a heavily codified form
of masked Japanese theatre that dates back to the
14th century), that most enraptured me. In Noh there’s
a kaleidoscope of colours, and outfits are deeply
symbolic. In that moment I fell for all the romance and
the possibility of textiles.
You’ve revived a number of dormant traditions in
Japanese weaving – what lead you to do this, and
how accessible were these ‘lost’ artisanal skills?
All my discoveries have come by chance. For
example, one day I found an old scrap of textile
at an antique shop and I was immediately struck
by its unusual, smooth touch. It felt like leather
even though the material seemed to have the
qualities of cotton. So I sent a sample for analysis
and discovered it was kokura-ori, a fabric that
ceased production in the 1930s. I started to try
to replicate the weave through trial and error. It
was a laborious process but the only way.
How does the Japanese textile tradition differ
from that in other countries you’ve visited?
There are lots of beautiful textiles in the world and
each talks of place, time and history. Textiles are
a living, fluid art, a link to the past and witness to
accumulated human wisdoms that reach back
thousands of years. The Japanese golden age of
design was the 16th to 17th centuries, so many
of Japan’s design traditions can be traced to this
period. Japanese textile tradition broadly differs
from others in celebrating a depth of colour and
designs which are uniquely our own.
You seem to be inspired by nature in the
design of your fabrics. What are your other
chief inspirations?
Yes, many of my designs are directly inspired
by nature. Another important factor is music or
sound; I often get an image to create a fabric
from various natural sounds or music – classic
or folk music, something I hear in passing.
How do you think textile art differs from other
art mediums in its impact on the viewer?
The most important difference is that the textiles
appeal to the sense of touch, not only to the
sense of sight; something that’s understood
more in Asian cultures than in the West. This
‘feeling of touch’ in the various materials and
structures of fabrics is of as much importance
as the visual impact.
You’ve also designed features for prominent
buildings in Japan. How different is the
process to working with fabrics?
I’m very interested in architectural design. The
sense of scale and volume is very different from
that used in fabrics. Designed fabrics start
off from a single point – creating an image to
generate a fabric design from. With architectural
design, this is reversed. What’s needed is a
sense of the whole, I need to know essences
and concepts at work in the entire building. It’s
a great challenge.
What do you most love about your home
country?
I love my home town of Kitakyushu. And the
old imperial city of Kyoto is a wonderland for
me, with its preserved temples, palaces and
gardens. In Tokyo, I often go to Meiji Shrine,
a silent and expansive place with many trees,
which calms me and brings me back to nature
from the bustle of the city.
You’ve travelled extensively as a cultural
ambassador and to exhibit your work around
the world. What’s your favourite country
outside Japan?
I love England. Perhaps it’s the island-race
mentality that’s shared with the Japanese, but
the English manage to combine a respect for
tradition with innovation and the avant-garde.
And I love traditional British pubs. We have
‘kakuuti’, which are a Japanese form of pubs, in
Kitakyushu. They have something of the same
old-fashioned style and sense of history.
What are your plans for the coming year?
I’m using kokura-ori technique in a range of
diffusion fabrics designed by me but woven
by machine, called Shima Shima. The fabric
is beautifully adaptable and can be used for
everything from handbags to scarves, hats
and laptop cases. I’ll probably show them at
Meuble Paris next January. That and take some
time out for long baths, or a hot-spring resort, if
I’m lucky. ❖
August 2010 17
 celebritycities
TAHER QASSIM
MY LIVERPOOL
When people ask me what symbolises Liverpool for
me, I pick the Liver Birds every time. They are instantly
recognisable landmarks and have appeared on
every advertisement for the northern port city I made
my home 15 years ago. Although there has been
redevelopment around the area, the Liver Building,
along with the neighbouring Cunard Building and
Port of Liverpool Building, make up Liverpool’s Three
Graces lining the City’s waterfront and, of course,
there is a strong connection between Yemenis and
the waterfront in Liverpool.
Although the Yemeni community centre isn’t in the
port area, most of our families arrived in Liverpool
by sea. They were sailors on British ships and so
the maritime environment is part and parcel of why
we are here. Last summer during the Liverpool
Arabic Arts Festival the community’s elders crossed
the Mersey on a ferry and then we performed our
traditional songs and dances right next to the river. It
drew quite a crowd and was a way to mark our long
connection with the sea.
I was one of the founders of the Yemeni Arabic Club
18 Open Skies
because there are so many of us and we needed a
place where we could socialise. I work in the National
Health Service as a public health neighbourhood
manager. And now I am also chair of the Liverpool
Arabic Centre.
Through the work connections I’ve made in the 15
years I’ve lived here, I was able to set up and chair the
Liverpool Arabic Arts Festival. It is an annual cultural
festival that is now in its ninth year. Its main aim is to
bring about understanding between the British and
Arab inhabitants of the city through culture. At first I
didn’t really envisage creating anything quite so big.
Last year we had 25,000 people involved. It really Taher Qassim was
started as a one-off small event. A group of us went one of the founder’s
into a local school to let the children see first hand of the Yemeni
Arabic club. Today
what Yemeni culture is all about. he is the chair
Then the Bluecoat, one of Liverpool’s main arts of the Liverpool
Arabic Centre and
venues, staged a performance by an oud player
was instrumental
and we supported this event. Since then we have in setting up the
worked together to bring the best Arab painters, Liverpool Arabic
Arts Festival that
poets, musicians, actors and dancers to perform in has grown rapidly
Liverpool every July. It has grown very quickly into an in its nine years.
 WHERE TO EATAA
MIDDLE EASTERN RESTAURANT Lodge Lane.
This is a great neighbourhood place to eat, near the
Arabic Centre and with authentic Yemeni food.
BLUECOAT RESTAURANT I like the modern feel and
the fact that the chef fuses Middle Eastern food with
other cuisines.
thebluecoat.org.uk
WHERE TO SLEEPAA
THE HARD DAYS NIGHT HOTEL A Beatles inspired
hotel that is conveniently located and reminds me of
the impact the Fab Four has had on the city.
harddaysnighthotel.com
ADELPHI HOTEL The Adelphi Hotel is a landmark
in Liverpool and within walking distance of the train
stations and the main attractions. I am especially
drawn to its Edwardian interior.
adelphi-hotel.co.uk
WHAT TO DOA
LIVERPOOL PHILHARMONIC It is famous worldwide.
The amazing art deco interior befits the high standard
of performance I’ve come to expect. The yearly
programme is varied and exciting.
liverpoolphil.com
FACT This is a Liverpool multi-dimensional cinema,
art gallery and the UK’s leading organisation for the
support and exhibition of film, art and new media.
They show vintage Arabic movies along with more
modern arthouse films. It is very popular with all
the communities in Liverpool. I like the architecture
in particular which is largely concrete and very
different from the usual plush cinemas. FACT also
provides training.
fact.co.uk
TATE LIVERPOOL This museum has completely
altered the atmosphere in the Albert Dock. There is
always something new to stimulate ideas and it hosts
Liverpool’s acclaimed Biennale.
tate.org.uk/liverpool
THE THREE GRACES I still enjoy walking in the
vicinity of these buildings at Pierhead. They are grand
without being off-putting and are a monument to the
strength and determination of the Scousers (a local
name for Liverpudlians) to overcome all odds.
THE BEATLES STORY Located in the Albert Dock the
Fab Four’s award-winning story offers an atmospheric
journey into the life, times, culture and music of the
Beatles. Everyone who comes to Liverpool wants to
go on a magical mystery tour to see how four young
lads from Liverpool shook the world.
beatlesstory.com
event that attracts huge interest not just in Liverpool
but also from people all over the world.
We began holding Arabic weekenders in one of
my favourite spots, Sefton Park. It’s a really big open
space with lots of trees not far from the Arabic Centre.
The festival was staged in the Palm House and the
exotic nature of the setting drew in lots of people who
had never thought about mingling with Arabs. It was
a big success. That taught us that there was a real
need to continue. I still walk in Sefton Park but the
focus of the festival has moved from there and into
the mainstream cultural centres in the city.
At this year’s festival Egyptian pop superstar
Mohamed Mounir performed before an excited crowd
at the Liverpool Philharmonic. He also introduced
an early Youssef Chahine film that he appears in
(Destiny) at FACT, Liverpool’s Cinemateque. We have
a huge number of arts venues in Liverpool thanks to
the growth of cultural tourism here. After the city’s
boom in the 1950s and 1960s because of coal mining
and manufacturing, it went downhill from the 1970s
onward with the decline in traditional manufacturing
industries. But billions of pounds have been spent
on regenerating the city along cultural lines and now
we are lucky enough to have countless restaurants
and shops. Of course we have our own special
Yemeni eateries and I also enjoy the upstairs
restaurant at the Bluecoat and a new Jamie Oliver
Italian restaurant has just opened in Liverpool One.
Liverpool’s success as European Capital of Culture
in 2008 really crowned the city’s fortunes built on its
cultural strengths. We had more than two and a half
million visitors that year alone.
The festival now has connections with a large
number of the more than 50 galleries and museums
in the city’s heart. We are part of that amazing cultural
boom, but we are very proud to have made our own
mark on the Liverpool scene. And this year the festival
received an important award from The Arab British
Society in recognition of our work in contributing to
Top: In 2008,
the British public’s knowledge and understanding of
Liverpool was the
Arab Culture. We're now a fixture on the Liverpool European Capital
arts scene and that is just as important to me as the of Culture. Qassim
has been heavily
MBE I received last January. ❖ promoting the city’s
As told to Sylvia Smith cultural strength.
August 2010 19
La Binoche
Juliette Binoche believes that
women reach their prime in their
forties. She definitely lives up to that
with a career that just keeps getting
better, reports Martin Gani.
T
here are beautiful
women and then there
are exceptional women.
Think Sophia Loren,
all class and Italian
style, with an aura of la
dolce vita. Then there’s
French actress Juliette
Binoche, a fine example
of joie de vivre if ever
there was one. Then again, labelling her a French
actress is like reducing a bottle of Veuve Clicquot
to grape juice. Binoche is far more than that. She’s a
versatile, international star who is as likely to appear
in a French drama or a Hollywood blockbuster as she
is in an independent budget film. Binoche listens to
her heart and soul, something that quickly became
apparent when I talked to her at the 2010 edition of
the Cannes Film Festival, where she was appearing in
Iranian filmmaker Abbas Kiarostami’s Certified Copy.
Binoche was born in Paris in 1964 and has
appeared in over 40 films including international
hits like The English Patient, Chocolat, The Unbearable
Lightness of Being and Dan in Real Life. She won an
Oscar as Best Supporting Actress in 1996 for The
English Patient, and received another nomination
four years later for Chocolat. She’s been nominated
20 Open Skies
for the César eight times and won it once. In total,
she’s had 15 wins and another 19 nominations in
her 30-year career. Not that you’d know that talking
to her as she comes across as a down to earth,
sensitive human being
She also knows what interests her. Getting the
opportunity to work with Steven Spielberg is like
winning the cinematic lottery, but Binoche turned
down a role in Jurassic Park for Three Colours: Blue.
In retrospect, it was a sound decision as the Polish
masterpiece made her an international star and
earned Binoche a Golden Lion at the 1993 Venice
Film Festival, a César in France, as well as a Golden
Globe nomination in the USA. Her choice to do Three
Colours: Blue was a deeply personal one. “In this film
my character has to deal with losing her family, an
issue I’m deeply interested in,” explains Binoche. “At
the time a friend of mine was actully going through
a similar pain and I lived through it with her. I was
very familiar with how she felt, so I did it for her.”
This personal approach seems to be a recurring
theme with Binoche and it may even illustrate who
she is both as an actress and a person. How does
she choose her roles? “I don’t choose them, they
choose me,” is her smiling answer. But she’s quick
to provide a deeper insight. “Actually I do have
to make choices depending on how closely I feel
PROFILE

CORBIS

August 2010 21
 PROFILE

the character and whether I can reveal something

hidden inside that role. Generally, I like challenging
roles but it also depends on who the director is. But
it’s always nice to be in demand.”
According to Binoche, Certified Copy ticked all the
right boxes. “When Kiarostami asked me to work
with him, I was honoured. I had worked with him
before, but it was the human aspect of the role that
drew me to his project. The story revolves around
a man and a woman pretending to be a couple and
it explores the theme in an interesting way: Is the
original self always better than being somebody
else, a copy?”
There’s no denying that Binoche is adventurous
in her roles and always up for a challenge. She sees
movies as open doors, and at every door, she changes
character and life. For example, Certified Copy
takes place in Tuscany, Italy, the male protagonist
is the British baritone William Shimmel, and Iran’s
Kiarostami is directing. How does Binoche adapt to
so many places, people and directors with such vastly
different backgrounds?
“I love the challenge of working abroad with
people who have a different approach and way of
CORBIS

Clockwise from top: Binoche won the best actress award at this year’s Cannes
Film Festival for her role in Certified Copy; Binoche with actor William Shimell and
renowned Iranian director Abbas Kiarostami at Cannes; In 1995 Binoche was the face
CORBIS

of Lancôme’s Poême fragrance and last year she became a brand ambassador for
the French cosmetics firm.

22 Open Skies
42-25188664
 PROFILE

CORBIS

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GETTY IMAGES

REUTERS

Top left and right:

Binoche has many
doing things,” says Binoche. “It’s always an enriching improvise the dialogue. It was tough at first but in talents. Besides
acting she also
experience and when it comes to adapting it’s a two the end I learnt a lot from the experience. In Tehran paints and had her
way street. In France the director tends to be in I worked with Kiarostami on a curious film, 114 first exhibition in
total control, in the Anglo-Saxon world some form Iranian actresses and I are sitting in a dark theatre 1990.

of teamwork usually prevails, and Asians have yet
another approach.”
Binoche has plenty of experience to back up her
opinion. “Kiarostami knows exactly what he wants,
he prepares the frame and gives you the freedom
to do as you like within that frame,” she says. “The
Taiwanese director Hou Hsiao-Hsien is not traditional
at all. When we did Flight of the Red Balloon (2007) he
gave me no script. He explained to me that although
the story took place in Paris, he didn’t know enough
French to write a script. So he only gave me some
basic instructions about each scene and I had to
listening to the 12th century Iranian poem, Khosrow Above left:
Dancing is the
and Shirin, but we never see what’s happening on the latest Binoche
stage. The Iranian actresses were so dynamic and full talent to emerge.
She appeared with
of life, hopefully I also learnt a lot from them.” Akram Khan in In-I.
There’s no denying that Binoche has an infectious Above: Binoche
enthusiasm, as Kiarostami can vouch for. He told with Johnny Depp
her the story of Certified Copy as if it was a personal in Chocolat. The
movie earned her
experience and Binoche was so enthusiastic and a second Oscar
taken in by his words that it prompted Kiarostami nomination.
to turn fiction into film. Was this an easy part to play?
“No,” says a laughing Binoche. “I had a lot of
trouble walking up and down the cobblestone streets

24 Open Skies
 PROFILE

of Tuscan towns wearing high heels!” Then she gets

serious. “I was perplexed at first as the art gallery
owner I play is a neurotic character who constantly
changes moods. How can you be one way one
minute and another the next, and make it all look
natural?” Kiarostami had no such doubts in Binoche’s
performance. “She did an excellent job,” he said, “a
perfect performance that made everything look and
sound real, not a film but a real story.”
The Cannes jury agreed with Kiarostami and
promptly gave Binoche the Best Actress award.
Binoche might be an international star, but in
France she’s unsurprisingly a superstar having
appeared in French classics like Lovers On the Bridge
and the hugely successful 2008 movie Paris. In fact,
the French press have nicknamed her ‘La Binoche’.
Those who attended this year’s Cannes Film
CORBIS
CORBIS

Above: The
paintings used
Festival would have noticed Binoche’s picture parents, both actor-directors, divorced when she in The Lovers
on the Bridge
everywhere. But this was not zealous advertising for was four. But, like everything else, it is a subject that were Binoche’s
Certified Copy, in fact Binoche was chosen for the she has thought deeply about. own. She hasn’t
official festival poster. “I was contacted about it earlier “Like everybody else, when I think of family stopped painting
on movie shoots
in the year asking for my consent and I said yes,” I mainly think of my children and my partner since she received
explains Binoche. “But it did make me feel like I’m (Argentinean filmmaker Santiago Amigorena). I’ve a commission from
the Cahiers du
looking into a mirror wherever I go!” always seen my own parents separately, but now I
Cinéma for a series
There’s no denying that Binoche is a pretty face, have my children, my sister Marion, grandparents, of portraits in 2007.
after all she represented the French cosmetics firm nephews and nieces to create that sense of family life Above left:
Lancôme. And yes, she gets frequent flyer miles together,” says Binoche. Binoche is an
international star,
globetrotting from one movie set to another. But she’s And, in typical Binoche fashion, she can’t help but in France she
also the mother of two, Raphael, 17 and Hana 11, digging deeper into her role. “Looking back, my is a superstar. The
French media gave
whom she had respectively with scuba diver André relationships ended because my partners didn’t
her the affectionate
Halle and actor Benoit Magimel. On top of that really make a commitment, but perhaps it was also nickname ‘La
she’s also the devoted godmother of five Cambodian a little my fault. When a love story ends you never Binoche’.

orphans. Yet she also finds time to raise funds for really know why however much you analyse it. I
Médecins Sans Frontiéres, and has been a member insist that my children regularly see their respective
of Aspecta, a Cambodian charity organisation, since father. I hope to teach them to be independent,
1992. Family is a sensitive issue with Binoche as her to pursue what they love the most, to find their

26 Open Skies

own way in the world. Doing Certified Copy also gave me
the opportunity to reflect on life as a couple. I asked myself
loads of questions. I have two children, a job many would
envy and I travel around the world. Maybe I could live
as a single mother, but sharing all this with someone is a
profound human need for me. I just can’t do without it even
if I’m aware relationships don’t last forever today with all the
temptation that is out there.”
Actress, mother, charity worker and thinker! That’s a full
dance card. But Binoche has another creative talent, namely
painting. The film poster of Lovers On the Bridge, as well as the
paintings done by the artist Binoche plays, is her own work. In
2008 she published a book of portraits consisting of directors
she has worked with, as well as the respective character she
herself played.
Last year Binoche branched out into another art form when
she showed theatre audiences her dancing skills in a show
called In-I which toured major European capitals. Her dance
partner was none other than choreographer Akram Khan.
That must have taken some courage. Binoche breaks out in
yet another contagious smile. “I must admit that it did take
courage. I had never danced on stage before and it was pretty
daring. It was an intense show both emotionally and physically.
PROFILE
Normally one should choose one or the other, but not both.”
In the cinema world, Binoche is as busy as ever. An
American movie, Son Of No One, where she stars alongside
Al Pacino and Ray Liotta, is due for release in December. Plus
she has another project in the pipeline.
“I’m working with Polish filmmaker Malgorzata Szumowska
on his next film, Sponsoring. I’ll do the part of a journalist
investigating the prostitution of university students,” she
explains. “It’s a social theme I’m very interested in. Here we
have women selling their bodies for need and/or luxury.
No emotions get in the way but unplugging the heart is a
dangerous thing. It leads to exploitation, loss of independence
and it’s not worth it in the end.”
Binoche once said “I’m pretty much melancholic”. Yet,
there’s no denying the fact that she’s a woman who throws
her heart and soul into everything she does. It was the French
philosopher René Descartes who coined the famous statement
‘I think therefore I am’. That seems to fit Juliette Binoche nicely.
After all, it is La Binoche who said: “Being a famous actress
may give you a sense of being important, but believe me, it’s
just an illusion” and “My only ambition is to be true every
moment I am living”. The thinking man’s actress might just be
a philosopher as well. ❖
 REAL LIFE

CORBIS

28 Open Skies
 GANG DAD
What does a father do when his son becomes involved with a gang?
In Jerry Wheeler’s case you fight all the way, even if it means taking
on South Los Angeles’ gangland, reports Jim Calio.
I first met Jerry Wheeler* when he was a refrigerator
repairman in South Central Los Angeles. He was
divorced from his wife, and she had custody of
their two children, Charmaine and Darnel. Jerry
had grown up in South Central (now called South
Los Angeles), was steeped in gang lore and knew
the appeal of the gangs to young boys who came
from broken homes. But he never in a thousand
years thought that his own son would become a
‘gangbanger,’ street talk for a member of a gang.
Then, one day, his daughter called him up and
said that Darnel was hanging out with a faction,
or ‘set’, of the Crips. Jerry didn’t believe her. But
Charmaine, 15, insisted it was true, so Jerry bundled
her into his car and drove to the street corner where
she said Darnel was. And she was right – there was
Darnel, then all of 12-years-old, dressed in the ‘sag’
pants and sneakers that was then the standard gang
outfit, hanging around with a bunch of Crips. Jerry
called from the car, and a frightened Darnel ran
over. Darnel denied he was a gang member. Jerry
told him to get in the car, drove him home and
burned his son’s gang clothes. But a few weeks later,
the same thing happened – Charmaine called Jerry
*NAMES HAVE BEEN CHANGED
and said that Darnel was at it again, hanging around
with the Crips, who all dressed in blue (the Bloods,
a rival gang, wore red). And again Jerry drove to
the street corner, shouted at Darnel in front of the
other gang members – ‘dissed’ him – and then drove
him home. “I told him I Ioved him,” says Jerry,
“but I also said I’d knock his head off if I caught
him wearing sag pants or a blue shirt or blue tennis
shoes. I didn’t want to see anything blue. And I
meant nothing.”
This pattern continued for several months, but try
as he might, Jerry couldn’t pry his son away from
the gangs. One day, he found a gun among Darnel’s
possessions. Confronted, Darnel said he was just
keeping it for a friend. “Fine,” said Jerry, grabbing it.
“Tell your friend he can come get it from me.” The
‘friend’ of course, never showed up to claim it. Jerry
says that he believes the gun was used by Darnel as
part of his gang initiation – that he was supposed
to participate in a drive-by shooting, but the gun
misfired (or Darnel was too nervous) and instead it
discharged into the car door.
Things only got worse. Darnel started stealing
cars with the other gangbangers, again as part of Opposite page:
his initiation into the set. The cops called Jerry and Detail from a
painting that was
said they were holding Darnel on stolen car charges. confiscated during
Jerry closed up the refrigerator repair shop and drove a police raid on an
LA gang house.
down to the precinct, where the cops handed over
It deals with the
his son. Jerry then took Darnel back to his brother’s themes of guns,
house nearby, and, as he puts it, “coached” his son on violence and death,
a road that is often
how not to steal cars, all the while telling Darnel that travelled by gang
he loved him, that he was his father but that he’d be members.
August 2010 29
 REAL LIFE

CORBIS
GETTY IMAGES

CORBIS

damned if he would let him join a gang. But Darnel, Then, interestingly, Jerry tried a new tactic. He Clockwise from
top left: Gang
swayed by the other gang members, kept at it – and knew that a car parked near his house was one that members are
about the third time the cops called Jerry to come Darnel and his gangbanger friends had stolen. So identified by their
tattoos; Former
for him, Darnel, fearing what was coming, begged very early on a Saturday morning, he yanked Darnel gang members Max
them not to release him to his father’s custody, which out of bed, grabbed a can of motor oil and some Maestas (L) from the
is exactly what the cops did. It happened even again rags, and told Darnel they were going to wash the ‘18th Street’, Alfred
Lomas (C) from the
and this time the cops, sensing an ally in Jerry, simply car down. Jerry proceeded, with Darnel staring on ‘Florencia 13’ and
brought Darnel right to Jerry’s house. They didn’t in open-mouthed amazement, to wipe every inch Melvin Johnson
(R) from the ‘Crips’
even bother to file charges. of the car, inside and out, with motor oil, in effect pose for customers
erasing any fingerprints. Then Jerry gave Darnel the during one of the LA

When I asked Darnel what keys to his own car, even though Darnel was under Gang Tours in Los
Angeles. Twice a
age, and said, “If you need a car, use mine. But don’t
the other kids thought of Jerry steal.” Dumbfounded, Darnel took his dad’s car out
month former gang
members organise

repeatedly showing up and for a ride. tours for tourists to

discover the history
After a while, Jerry, using his own particular
yanking him off the street, he brand of tough love and street smarts, began pulling
and origin of high-
profile gang areas

said they told him, “You don’t Darnel away from the gangs. Anyone will tell you
and top crime scene
locations in South
that pre-teen kids are the most susceptible to joining
know how lucky you are to have the gangs, and if they do, they are generally lost.
Los Angeles; Police
conduct a raid in

an old man who cares.” Darnel was at that critical age, but even some of
South Los Angeles.

30 Open Skies
 REAL LIFE

the other gangbangers were impressed with Jerry’s

determination to keep Darnel out of harm’s way.
In fact, when I asked Darnel what the other kids
thought of Jerry repeatedly showing up and yanking
him off the street, let alone ‘dissing’ him in front of
the others, he said they told him, “You don’t know
how lucky you are to have an old man who cares.”
But just when Jerry thought he had finally got
his son all the way out of the gangs, the roof fell in.
Darnel was at a convenience store getting a soda

CORBIS
when he was confronted by the girlfriend of a rival
gang leader. She called Darnel a “chicken” for leaving
the gangs, and then she slapped him – an obvious
provocation. Darnel hit her back, and she ran. It
didn’t take long for word to get out that there was a
‘contract’ out on Darnel – that the girl’s boyfriend was
going to kill him. Jerry heard about this and decided
to take matters into his own hands. He and his
brother, who played a significant role as his backup,

Jim Calio was the West Coast

Bureau Chief for Life Magazine
until it folded in 1995. After that,
he remained in Los Angeles,

where he continues to write
travel stories, celebrity profiles
and other articles for more
than a dozen magazines,
including The New Yorker,
L’Equipe and Cosmopolitan,
plus websites in the US and Jim Ca lio
internationally. Several years
ago, he produced a two-hour television movie
based on a story written for People. It was about
an airplane hijacking in Athens, The Taking of Flight
847: The Uli Derickson Story. The movie received
five Emmy nominations.
The ‘Gang Dad’ story grew out of interviews
Calio did with several street gang counsellors
in South Central Los Angeles, which has since
been renamed ‘South Los Angeles,’ but it’s only
a cosmetic change – the gang problem continues
unabated, no matter what they call the area.
One of the counsellors Calio talked to told him
about his son and how he got him out of a gang.
The gripping story illustrates the central problem
with the gang culture: Unless parents are willing
to become closely involved with their children,
especially the younger ones, many of these kids
will end up in a gang.
CORBIS
Top: Crips gang
emotionally and physically, went to the rival members pose
gang leader’s house. The mother answered for a picture. The
the door, and Jerry asked politely to see her Crips is mainly an
African-American
son, the gang leader, a kid in his late teens. gang, but not
When the kid appeared at the door, Jerry let exclusively. There
are about 30,000 to
loose with a roundhouse punch and decked 35,000 Crips gang
him. He had Charmaine and Darnel in tow, members who
standing right behind him. “If you harm either one of are divided into a
loosely connected
these kids,” he said, pointing to them, “I’ll kill you.” network called
Then he walked away. ‘sets’.
The next thing Jerry knew, there was a ‘contract’ Above: Social
acceptance,
out on him. He was told that a carload of money, safety
gangbangers, led by the kid he had punched out, in numbers and
was driving around the neighbourhood looking respect are four
main reasons that
for him. Jerry got his brother and they both went young children are
looking for the gangbangers, thinking this was the lured into gangs.
final confrontation. Both Jerry and his brother were
armed. They stood in the middle of the street, High
Noon-style, and faced the approaching car which
bristled with guns. Jerry says now he didn’t know
what was going to happen, but at the last minute
the carload of gangbangers suddenly swerved and
turned down a side street, thus avoiding a bloody
confrontation. That’s the last Jerry ever heard from
the gang leader who was out to kill his kid.

32 Open Skies
 But it wasn’t over yet. About a year later, Darnel, house and saw an old man being beaten up by some
by then back in school and holding down a part time members of a Crips set. The gangbangers said that
job, was standing in line at a movie theatre, talking to the old man owed them money. Jerry jumped in the
his girlfriend. Out of the corner of his eye, he saw a middle and challenged any of the gangbangers to
car pull up slowly and a gun come out. Instinctively, take him on. They backed away – they knew him
he dropped to the ground. A shot was fired, and it hit from the street and respected his authority, which is
Below: End of
him in the leg. Jerry called me that night, steaming. something you can’t buy, you either have it or you the road: A young
I asked him what he was going to do. I thought for don’t. Jerry had it. Shortly after that, he became a gang member has
his hair cut by
sure that he would get a gun and go out looking for street gang counsellor, trying to keep other people’s an inmate before
the shooter himself. “Nothing” he said. “I’ve done all kids out of trouble – and out of gangs. ❖ entering prison.
I can. It’s up to Darnel.” And it would have been easy
for Darnel to round up some of his old gangbanger
buddies and seek revenge, but he didn’t do it – he
had finally turned the corner, much to his father’s
relief and pride. His only reminder is a slight limp
because of the bullet wound.
Through all this, Jerry was still working as a
refrigerator repairman, although the business
suffered some because he was chasing down Darnel
at all hours of the day and night. But he had also
been thinking about working with kids in gangs,
about trying to get them out like he had gotten his
own son out. Then, one day, he walked out of his
 CULTURE

Angolan artist Kiluanji is labelled a ‘free radical’

who is known for his installations and thought
provoking work. He has exhibited at the Venice
Biennial, the Guangzhou Triennial and is a
headliner at the Angolan Triennial.

HEALING ART
The Angolan capital Luanda is gearing up to host its second
Triennial. Louise Redvers spoke to Fernando Alvim, the director
of the Sindika Dokolo Foundation, and the brains behind the
event set to put Angola on Africa and the world’s art map.

T
he renouned Angolan artist,
Fernando Alvim, has an office
located deep in downtown Luanda,
on the first floor of an old, faded 1940s
hotel building. Several other Angolan artists
and musicians share the corridor, and as
soon as you leave the noisy street and enter
the hotel’s cool, tiled reception area the
sense of creativity is tangible.
The Triennial work area, located in the
former restaurant, is divided up by striking
green and grey partition walls, underneath
a high white ceiling, with funky furniture.
It is almost an art exhibition in itself: bright
and modern, there are colourful posters
and wall charts detailing Triennial events,
alongside rows of flat screen computers and
works by Alvim and others, including a
large framed mirror with the words ‘We Are
All Post-Exotics’ which hangs in reception.
Basing the ultra-modern headquarters
of Sindika Dokolo’s art foundation – which
boasts the largest collection of
contemporary African art in the world
– in such an old crumbling building is
symptomatic of the ongoing dialogue
between Portuguese-speaking Angola’s
past and present, its sense of identity and
perceptions of art on the continent.
“The Triennial is a cultural movement,”
explained Alvim, the director of the event.
“It is the creation of a platform for artists
to show and share their experiences, but to
do so freely, without being conditioned by
the systems of art as we have come to know
them. We want it to be about an exploration
of possibilities.”
This will be Luanda’s second Triennial
and is, according to Alvim, much bigger
and “more organic” than the first, which
was staged in 2007. The growth is a natural
reflection of the country’s own social and
economic development.
Once known for little more than its civil

August 2010 35

war and legacy of landmines, Angola is becoming a
regional powerhouse with a growing economy and
continually diversifying global relationships thanks
in part to its huge oil reserves. The capital Luanda,
home to an estimated eight million people, has
also changed significantly in the past three years as
rapid post-war economic development is driving a
construction boom, with much of the capital being
dug-up and rebuilt.
With its stunning bay-side location, city beaches
and dabs of colonial Portuguese architecture, Alvim
has a stunning canvas on which to begin his work.
Although there are few formal exhibition spaces,
there are plenty of interesting buildings to use, and
like the foundation’s office in the old hotel, they add
to the event’s conversation between past and present.
Eight years of peace have also made the city easier
36 Open Skies
to navigate: there are more hotels
and restaurants, better roads, a
private taxi firm, a new airport,
and having recently hosted the
Africa Cup of Nation’s football
tournament, there is more
understanding of tourists.
Alvim says Luanda’s growth and
development is the idea behind
the Triennial’s theme: Geografias
Emocionais – Arte e Afectos – or in
English: Emotional Geographies –
Art and Effects.
“The idea emerged from the
ANDRE VIEIRA
experiences of the city and its
ongoing metamorphosis,” he said,
explaining that Luanda, which is
home to two thirds of the country’s population, was
uniquely hybrid and a strong representation of all
Angola at once. “This is the Triennial of Luanda, not
just the Triennial in Luanda,” he added.
The three-month free event will involve seven
main exhibitions with 400 works presented
through various mediums including architecture,
performance and design, all linking into each other
and overlapping at common sites.
There will be a Smörgåsbord of art, photography,
sculpture, fashion, music, film and dance
“happening” all over the Angolan capital, with
outdoor billboard paintings, formal exhibitions,
television and radio debates, education programmes,
theatrical performances and more. A percentage of
each exhibition will be retained and inserted into
the next so the finale in December will represent the
whole event as it has developed.
As well as pieces from Top left: Fernando
Alvim, one of
established Angolans such as Angola’s most
Nastio Mosquito, Ndilo Mutima, renowned painters,
Yonamine and Kiluanji, there is the curator
of Luanda’s Art
will also be a number of younger Triennial. Alvim is
Angolan photographers, fashion also the curator
of the Sindika
designers and performers showing Dokolo’s collection,
their work. the biggest
From overseas, artists taking collection of African
contemporary art in
part include British/Nigerian the world.
Turner Prize-winner Chris Ofili, Bottom left:
controversial South African Turner Prize-winner
Chris Ofili’s work
Kendell Geers, Ethiopian/Swiss will be shown at the
Loulou Cherinet, New York-based Luanda Triennial.
Egyptian Ghada Amer, Abdoulaye Ofili’s work is
GETTY IMAGES
heavily influenced
Konaté from Mali, Bili Bidjocka by his Nigerian
from Cameroon and several roots.
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 CULTURE

Alvim admitted he did not

personally like all the pieces
that were to be shown but said
it was about bringing together
a fusion of styles and ideas to
challenge the audience. “I find if
there is a piece of artwork that
I don’t like, often it makes me
be more curious,” he explained.
“It’s almost as if I have to look
deeper into it to find what it
is that I don’t like about it and
that creates a new process in my
relationship with the art.
“I suppose that is what we
are trying to do here with the
Triennial because to me art is
about a biochemical process, it
is how we react to the aesthetics
of the work and what it means
to us. We want our artists to be
CORBIS

alchemists, to create new ideas in

new spaces.”
He urged those who were
critical of contemporary art to
ditch the old argument that
“anyone could have done it”,
and see instead the relationship
between themselves and
the work and try to feel and
understand that experience. He
said contemporary art was well-
received in Angola because the
people have become accustomed
Brazilian and Portuguese artists including Ayrson to accept the unusual having lived through decades
Heráclito and João Maria Gusmão. of conflict before the civil war finally ended in 2002.
There will also be several international “Angolans have a huge experience to absorb the
collaborations including an exhibition from Salvador most incredible situations because of what we have Top left: A visitor
about Africans in Bahia since the 1950s and a project lived through,” he said, adding: “We were in school looks at the
work ‘The Best
about the German Bauhaus geometrical design as kids with Cuban teachers who taught us Marxism, of the Best’ by
movement founded in 1919. we are very used to things we are not used to, if you Angolan artist
Yonamine who
In addition to these shows and the specially- know what I mean? This makes the public here more
often explores the
commissioned pieces, Alvim is hoping to bring to open than in many places, and Angolans are not colonial relationship
Luanda from various museums around the world afraid of something new.” between Portugal
and Angola.
an exhibition of Angolan Chokwe masks, used by the Well-received at home, the country’s contemporary
Bottom left:
tribes living in the eastern provinces of the Lundas art has also attracted critical acclaim abroad. Luanda’s Ilha
and Moxico. “This is about the concept of values Following the success of the 2007 Triennial, which Peninsula is the
place for trendy
of art,” he said. “We are doing this project with featured close to 100 artists and attracted 200,000
restaurants and
the Angolan National Bank, looking at economic visitors, Alvim and others went on to create Check clubs. But the
worth. We want to create an interaction between the List – Luanda Pop at the 52nd Venice Biennial, and second Luanda
Triennial will be
aesthetics of two centuries ago, connecting to the Luanda Smooth and Rave in Bordeaux in 2009, both spread all over the
aesthetics of the contemporary artists from Angola.” making waves in the contemporary art world. With city and totally free.

38 Open Skies

that build up, the 2010 Triennial is likely to be a major draw
for art lovers and critics from around the world. But while
the curator hopes people will come to his city, he hopes they
will do so in a way true to the event as an art show and not
through national publicity. He reflected: “For more than 30
years the world has been saying things about us, it’s almost as
if we have to be obliged to say something back to the world,
like an apology.
“But I don’t see this as the point of the Triennial. We are
much more concentrated on ourselves, and of course we’ll
have a website and advertise what we are doing but it’s not
specifically about making publicity for Luanda or for Angola.”
Repeating the edict that it is the Triennial ‘of’ Luanda, not
just ‘in’ Luanda, Alvim is proud of the ambitious education
programme that is proposed. More than 100 schools and
70,000 students from across the country will be introduced to
art through various cross-over Triennial projects. The fact that
all the shows will be free is also crucial, the artist said, to make
the Triennial as inclusive as possible.
“For the development of Angola, art must be a free process,”
he said. “We need to give people access without making them
spend money. I would not feel good if a young person had
to forego their lunch to be able to afford to see an exhibition,
this is not right. For me art should be a space for reflection
CULTURE
and aesthetic pleasure, not something to pay for. We live in a
time of much uncertainty, conflict and unrest, but art can be a
vector of peace, it is something which is good for the spirit and
people must have access to art without having to pay.”
Taking the concept of ‘free’ to the extreme, the curator
said they were working with the Provincial Government of
Luanda to create a lot of work to go outside in the open air, on
billboards and metal fences of construction sites. “You will feel
the art as soon as you enter the city, it will be there all around
you to experience,” he said.
With just a few months to go until the Triennial’s launch,
Alvim and his small team are busy on the final preparations,
preparing the programmes and posters and editing their
monthly Triennial magazine-come-catalogue, Uanga. There
have also been several pre-events, including exhibitions and
concerts, and the expectation is building.
Although rarely seen in the office or indeed in public,
Luanda-based Congolese businessman Sindika Dokolo,
sometimes billed as ‘Africa’s Charles Saatchi’, remains closely
involved in the Triennial’s planning and can take much credit
for making Angola into a contemporary art destination. ❖
The 2010 Triennial de Luanda runs from September 12 to
December 19.
 TRAVEL

MADRID’S
GOURMET
TOUR DE

CORBIS
FORCE
The Spanish capital is renowned for style, glamour,
fashion and beauty. Plus, it also has a fantastic
restaurant scene with some classy culinary
temptations, reports Scott Adam

40 Open Skies
 TRAVEL

ual
s fresh and unus
Chef Santi love daikon, a mild
produce such as radish.
flavoured Asian

hose dining in Emirates First Class or
Business Class en route between Dubai and Madrid
will be savouring an exclusive selection of dishes by
celebrated Spanish chef Santi Santamaria. However,
after landing, the gastronomic journey continues.
The 52-year-old Chef Santi, who is most famed
for his three Michelin-starred restaurant Can Fabes,
just north of Barcelona, explains that designing the
cuisine onboard has been a delightful and highly
personal culinary progression. “My cuisine is known
in both Spain and the United Arab Emirates, and it’s
great to be able to link the two cities together with
meals for Emirates passengers.”
In true Spanish style, the dining experience will
begin with tapas; those tasty morsels which are so
popular in Spain, but other dishes, such as the fish
suquet stew cooked Costa Brava style, or foie gras
with caramelised pineapple, are reflections of the
gastronomic traditions and trends from his homeland
– the north eastern Spanish region of Catalonia – that
has inspired his recipes for more than 25 years.
Seasonal fresh produce will direct the frequently
changing onboard menus, just as it does in all his
restaurants on terra firma. Chef Santi has a fondness
for seafood, garden fresh vegetables and wild herbs.
“I believe in treating the base ingredients with respect Above: Chef
Santi Santamaria
and, in many cases, take a ‘barely touched’ approach has earned
to my cooking,” he explains. Creating meals to be seven Michelin
served at high altitudes for an international airline has stars across his
four Spanish
its challenges too. “There are so many more factors to restaurants. Many
take into account,” he muses. “People’s perceptions gourmands regard
his food as the
of flavours alter and some foods, such as salads with
reference point for
fresh tomato, aren’t appropriate, as they can make Spanish cuisine.
the passengers feel heavy.” For hungry globetrotters, Opposite page:
there are opportunities to savour his delicious Catalan Madrid is about
casual eating
inspired cuisine at his restaurant Santceloni in during the day
Madrid, Ossiano in Dubai and at Santi in Singapore. and more formal
at night. Gran Via,
Santceloni boasts two Michelin stars and is a reference
Madrid’s famous
point for Spanish gourmands. Set in the chic shopping street,
surroundings of the Hotel Hesperia, the restaurant’s has numerous
good restaurants
decor also echoes Chef Santi’s philosophy of merging hidden in the side
old and new. Rustic farmhouse tables and cupboards streets.
are juxtaposed against ultra-modern interior fittings,
which are all set around two large glassed-in atria.
The kitchen is headed by Executive Chef Óscar
Valasco, who first worked with Santamaria at his
Costa Brava restaurant Can Fabes, and has earned his
mentor’s full confidence and respect.
Across in Dubai, the Ossiano restaurant experience
takes you into an elegant blue-hued space, which is

August 2010 41
 TRAVEL

a Brava is

CORBIS
Above: Fuente de
Cibeles at the Plaza
de Cibeles is one
of Madrid’s most
famous landmarks.
In the background
is the famous
Edificio Metropolis.
Right: Santceloni,
which has
two Michelin
stars, reflects
Santamaria’s
philosophy of
mixing old and new
in its decor.
dominated by the famous full-wall aquarium where
a variety of sea creatures parade by. Small tapas set
the scene with delicacies such as apple and whitebait
mince served with a dollop of caviar, or the buttery
Tasmanian salmon medallions which seem to melt on
the tongue. Other menu highlights are the crab meat
infused with orange essence.
His latest venture, Santi, is found on the second
floor of the just opened Marina Bay Sands complex
in Singapore. Unlike his other restaurants, Santi will
have a different style. “You’ll find Asian influences
on the menu,” says Santamaria. “I don’t like to make
replicas of my restaurants. I want each one to have its
own character.”
Ask Chef Santi if he considers himself to be an
‘old-school’ chef and he sidesteps the question. “The
aim of my job is to combine tradition, cultural values
and creativity,” he says. It’s a theory that has worked
wonders and earned him no less than seven Michelin
stars across his four restaurants in Spain. However, if
you want to get Santi Santamaria talking passionately
about a topic other than food, mention art,
particularly works by Spanish contemporary artist
s h fr o m the Cost. His cuisine
llfi rks
Fresh shehef Santi’s hallma sophy that is
n e o f C r y p h il o ith a
o s a culina mporary w
expresse itional and conte
both tradrish.
wild flou
Antoni Tápies who is known for his innovative use of
thick, rough textures, tears and cuts in the canvas and
collage in his paintings. “I have a profound respect
for Tápies work and there are similarities between his
output and mine,” Chef Santi explains. “Tápies shows
the relationship with matter and his environment in
his art. He paints to stir our consciousness, making
us more aware of elements which go beyond mere
physical appearances and become something spiritual
and visceral.”
Speaking about his own kitchen team and the work
of other chefs in Spain he explains, “I’m glad that
young Spanish chefs are enthusiastic about getting
involved in modern cuisine.” However, he stresses
that, like most art forms, before you can venture into
the avant-garde, you need to have a sound base in
the traditional techniques. “Without the basics, such
as how to cut meat and vegetables, understanding
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Madrid has hot, dry summers with temperatures of
39ºC to 41ºC. Winters are usually mild, ranging from
2ºC to 10ºC with mostly sunny days. August is a
great month to visit. Enjoy the long days exploring the
streets before dining late after the temperatures drop.
Currency is the Euro (¤1 = US$1.23 approximately).
GETTING THERE
EMIRATES fly between Dubai and Madrid daily.
Visit emirates.com or emirates-holidays.com for
more details.
RESOURCES
For complete listings of where to stay and eat, as well
as what’s on, visit the official Madrid Tourism website
esmadrid.com or turismomadrid.es. The central
Tourist Office is located in Plaza Mayor 27
(+34 915 881 636).

42 Open Skies
 TRAVEL

Above: Sergi cooking temperatures and correct seasoning, you white variety, wild mushrooms, seafood and game
Arola’s Gastro cannot move on or capture the diner’s imagination.” give the menu a varied hue as the months pass by.
restaurant has two
Michelin stars. The He also highlights that it is not easy to maintain Must try dishes for the gourmand are razor clams
restaurant, close a three-Michelin-star rating for restaurants these garnished with caviar and green beans, or veal terrine
to Paseo de la
days – something he has done year after year since with foie, pistachios and puréed figs. But make sure
Castellana, offers
four tasting menus Can Fabes was first awarded the accolade in 1994. you keep room to try some of the amazing selection
as well as á la carte. “The world is turning into a different place with of cheeses from across Europe.
Below: Spanish globalisation and the present economic crisis affecting There are many other tastes to discover in
Chef Ferran Adriá’s
El Bulli restaurant restaurants worldwide,” he says. Although success Madrid. Catalan chef, Sergi Arola’s two Michelin
was scored as seems to be his, he is not resting on his laurels this starred restaurant Gastro, found in a quiet street
the world’s best
year. Creating the menus for Emirates over the not far from the bustling thoroughfare Paseo de la
restaurant in the
San Pellegrino coming months and his new restaurant Santi in Castellana, offers plenty of flexibility with its four
World’s 50 Best Singapore will be a priority, as well as finishing his
Restaurants 2009,
making it four years
in a row.
latest recipe book.
If you have discovered the joys of Santi Santamaria’s
TRAVEL INFORMATION
cuisine onboard, then don’t miss the opportunity to WHERE TO EAT
enjoy more dishes at his restaurant Santceloni in the SANTCELONI, Paseo de la Castellana 57 (+34 912
108 840; restaurantesantceloni.com). Gastronomic
heart of Madrid. Executive chef, Óscar Velasco, has
menu from €132 per person.
stuck to his mentor’s guiding principles and based
SERGI AROLA GASTRO, Calle Zurbano 3
the menu on the best seasonal produce. Santceloni’s
(+34 913 102 169; sergiarola.es). Tasting menus
team’s strong beliefs in excellence have been rewarded from €105 to €160 per person.
with two Michelin stars. Truffles, including the rare
LA TERRAZA DEL CASINO, Calle de Alcalá 15
(+34 915 321 275; casinodemadrid.es). Set menus
from €128 per person.
FORA BY RAMÓN FREIXA, Calle Claudio Coello 67
(+34 917 818 262; ramonfreixamadrid.com). Tasting
menus from €65 to €95 per person.

WHERE TO STAY
HESPERIA, Paseo de la Castellana 57 (+34 912 108
800; hesperia.com). Relax in five star luxury in a
contemporary setting.
WESTIN PALACE, Plaza de las Cortes 7 (+34 913 608
000; westinpalacemadrid.com). Enjoy the sumptuous
rooms and suites, which are a stone’s throw from all
the major museums.
HOTEL SELENZA, Calle Claudio Coello 67
(+34 917 810 173; selenzahoteles.es). Driven by
design, this boutique hotel offers a lush garden
GETTY IMAGES

terrace as well as the restaurant Fora by Ramón

Freixa.

44 Open Skies

tasting menus, as well as ‘á la carte’. During the day, pop
in to enjoy lighter fare, including steamed clams drizzled
with a delicate vinaigrette sauce, or a summer favourite, the
gourmet vegetable wrap. Evenings are more formal and,
although the menu changes every two months, there is
usually an emphasis on fresh seafood and fish. Dishes which
have helped him maintain his two Michelin stars are the
slow-cooked sole crusted with black olives and accompanied
by artichokes, or the stingray fin served with stewed green
lentils. A juicy prime beef steak comes with a variety of
tantalising morsels including Granny Smith gelée, celery
marmalade, a hot apple and mascarpone wafer sandwich and
apple and celery ice-cream. Desserts are equally imaginative.
Don’t miss the white chocolate and truffle mousse served
with a hot infusion made from cocoa and rosemary.
Master chef Ferran Adrià, whose restaurant El Bulli has
been repeatedly named ‘Best restaurant in the world’, is the
gastronomic consultant for the two-Michelin-starred La Terraza
del Casino, found just a short stroll from Madrid’s emblematic
La Puerta del Sol square. However, the man creating the
magic on a day-to-day basis is Chef Paco Roncero. During the
summer months guests can enjoy the outdoor area and dine
alfresco under the stars. La Terraza del Casino offers a truly
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TRAVEL
original gastronomic selection including the popular small
Tapi dishes, which comprise some surprising combinations
including oyster tartar and shredded foie gras with eel. Chef
Roncero skilfully combines textures, contrasting temperatures
and flavours throughout the menu. The desserts, which
include small treats with chocolate mint and peach, are often
whimsical creations that will leave you truly satisfied but
wanting to return.
Expect the unexpected at the one-Michelin-starred Fora,
situated in Madrid’s sophisticated Salamanca district. The
stunning interior incorporates both Baroque and contemporary
elements. Fora’s menu and the dish presentation are, while
highly refined, also fun. Chef Ramón Freixa, who hails from
Catalonia, explains that he aims for the dining experience
“to be entertaining.” The gastronomic brilliance begins
with crunchy vegetable wafers hanging from a fine wire
between two chrome supports. Follow on with tapas-style
snacks, which may include Chef Ramón’s highly original
‘deconstructed hamburger’– a delicious mix of duck meat,
green mustard ice-cream, Ibiazábal cheese and crunchy bread.
Menu highlights are the roasted red mullet served with two
side dishes; brioche toast with bay leaf and anchovy, and red
peppers and fried bread. Such are the tastes of Madrid! ❖
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 48hours
SINGAPORE
Dynamic and endlessly fascinating, Singapore is an exciting blend of east and
west, old and new. This small island-city state brimming with unbridled energy is
also one of the greenest cities in the world, with rainforest and wetland reserves
on its doorstep, reports Gilly Pickup.
WHY GO?
Singapore is a beacon of efficiency, high-technology
and cleanliness. It has a wealth of top-class, stylish
restaurants, hotels, no shortage of state-of-the-art
spas and arguably the best shopping in Southeast
Asia. Nightlife is full on and fizzing too. Simply put,
Singapore is a veritable feast for the senses, a heady
mixture of the familiar and the exotic. Sometimes
it is criticised for its seemingly petty regulations,
including the banning of chewing gum, but crime
is virtually unknown making this one of the world’s
safest places to visit.
WHAT TO DO
Nature lovers will enjoy the Botanic Gardens, an oasis
in the city’s heart. A magnificent plant collection spans
over 52 hectares and include the Evolution Garden
and the Ginger Garden. If you love orchids – and who
doesn’t – the National Orchid Garden is a must see
with its huge displays of sprawling blooms.
Still on the nature theme, come face to face with
birdlife at the Jurong Bird Park, home to Southeast
Asia’s largest bird collection. Explore the world’s
largest walk-in aviary, the habitat of around
1,500 flying birds. Popular with visitors are
the endangered Bali Mynahs. In the wild
they number only 50, but the park has four
dedicated sanctuaries that house them.
The goal is to breed them and when ready,
release them back into the wild to bolster
their dwindling population.
While you’re out and about, take a trip
along Singapore River on a bumboat. These
were once used to ferry goods to and
from larger ships moored in the harbour,
but today they offer an excellent
way to see the contrasting
architectural styles of the city.
The commentary provides
a history lesson as you glide
by colonial-era buildings and
modern skyscrapers.
48 Open Skies
Shoppers tend to gravitate towards the famed retail
stretch of Orchard Road with its vast, air-conditioned
malls. Get your fix of glossy names like Versace, Louis
Vuitton, Chanel and every other couture label you
can think of, then head to Chinatown where the early
Chinese settlers once worked and lived. Seething
with vitality, shops offer the real ethnic deal and sell
antiques, fabrics in rainbow colours, snacks, herbs
and jewellery.
Pay a visit to Southeast Asia’s first Universal Studios
theme park on Sentosa Island. This family orientated
resort offers everything from sports events, arts
festivals and concerts to fun rides based on popular
movies like Madagascar and Shrek. Visit Sci-Fi city,
explore the Lost World, the mystical land of Far Far
Away and Marine Life Park where you can snorkel
with rays and come face to fin with some of the
ocean’s most fascinating creatures.
WHERE TO STAY
The Ritz-Carlton is no ordinary hotel. For starters,
treasures on view include works by Frank Stella,
Andy Warhol and Dale Chihuly, Rainer Gross’
geometric compositions and the botanicals of
Robert Zakanitch. Set in just under three hectares
of landscaped grounds it exudes a sense of peace,
despite its busy Marina Bay location. (Ritz-
Carlton Hotel, Raffles Avenue, tel: +65 6337 8888,
ritzcarlton.com.)
Singapore’s most famous hotel is Raffles, the
timeless symbol of colonial opulence. It dates
from 1887 and is named after Singapore’s founder,
Opposite page (clockwise from top): The Sentosa chair lift links
the entertainment hub of Sentosa Beach with the Imbiah Lookout
area; A 30-minute bumboat ride along the Singapore River is a
great way to explore the city’s heart; There’s no shortage of food
courts serving cheap but tasty food; Orchard Road is world famous
for its upmarket shopping; The Singapore Botanical Gardens,
which was founded in 1859, covers 52 hectares; Escape the city
and enjoy some sand and sea on Sentosa Island; A view towards
the Esplanade. In the foreground is the new Esplanade concert hall
that is modelled on the spiky durian fruit; The Chinese Garden is a
park in Jurong East; Endangered Bali Mynahs are being bred at the
Jurong Bird Park.
CORBIS

CORBIS
48hours

Top: Trishaws, or Sir Stamford Raffles. Famed for its luxurious
pedal rickshaws,
were introduced to
accommodation and superb restaurants, the hotel
Singapore in 1914 houses a tropical garden courtyard, museum and
and quickly spread Victorian-style theatre. (Raffles Hotel, 1 Beach Road,
through Southeast
Tel: +65 6337 1886, raffles.com)
Asia. An hour-long
journey to explore
Sentosa Island
costs around S$36.
WHAT TO EAT AND DRINK
Above: The
Pack your appetite as food is taken mega-seriously
Singapore Flyer, here. Dishes you are likely to discover include chilli
which is 165 metres crab, (crabs cooked in thick gravy with a tomato and
high, provides the
perfect vantage chilli base) and barbecued stingray, a dish unique to
point to admire the Singapore which comes smothered in sambal, a chilli-
city skyline.
based sauce, and served on a banana leaf. Fish head
curry is a red snapper fish head cooked with vegetables
in curry sauce. Granted, it may not appeal to everyone,
but it turns up in dining venues everywhere. The
traditional accompaniment to this local delicacy is a
glass of ‘calamansi’ (local lime juice).
Newton Food Centre is one of Singapore’s favourite
supper hotspots with food stalls set round a bustling
square. Relax and watch the world go by while you
sip a drink and tuck into a plate of Hokkien mee
(wok-fried noodles with shrimps and squid). It is safe
to eat from the street vendors here as all purveyors of
food are subject to government inspection.
The House of Peranakan Cuisine (10 Claymore
Road), has a thatched roof stage and kitschy
mannequins dotted around. Heritage cuisine is
served in bubbling claypots and vintage crockery.
Peranakan cuisine is one of the most complex to
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Although the wettest months are November to
January and the driest May to July, there is actually
very little year-round variation in weather patterns.
Don’t forget to take a brolly with you though,
unexpected tropical downpours happen quite often!
(S$1= US$0.72 approximately).
GETTING THERE
EMIRATES flies three times daily between Dubai
and Singapore. See emirates.com or emirates-
holidays.com for more information.
RESOURCES
Get all the information you need from the Singapore
Tourism Board (yoursingapore.com).
FURTHER READING
LONELY PLANET’S SINGAPORE and INSIGHT
GUIDE SINGAPORE are helpful books, which
include restaurant recommendations, where to stay,
what to see and local information.
For a lighthearted look at local dialect ‘Singlish’, get
a copy of the COXFORD SINGLISH DICTIONARY,
which tells you all you need to know about
‘Singapore English’ (singlishdictionary.com).
FAST FACT
The zippy Mass Rapid Transport (MRT) train is a
clean, safe, inexpensive way to get round. Most
major tourist attractions are located within easy
walking distance of a station.
prepare and you’ll appreciate this when you see the
Nonya flower crabs, assam tiger prawns and itik
sioh (stewed duck).
Wine and dine amid tranquil tree-lined paths
at Rochester Park. This heritage area bursts with
swish restaurants housed in whitewashed colonial
villas. Check out One Rochester, the decor is
stunning, and it has a relaxed garden area where you
can eat alfresco.
TRIP TIP
Take a trishaw ride. This traditional three-wheeled
mode of transport carries two passengers and is a
novel way to see Chinatown and other ethnic areas
up close.
MUST DO
Take a trip on the Singapore Flyer (singaporeflyer.
com) on Raffles Avenue. At 165 metres, the giant
observation wheel provides breathtaking views of
Singapore’s skylines and Marina Bay. One leisurely
circuit in a capsule the size of a bus (UV protection
in the glass shields passengers from the hot sun)
takes 30 minutes. ❖
 Malaysia Contemporary
Art Tourism Festival
July 1 – September 30, 2010

"Contemporary art is a passion

that unites discerning travellers
and tourists alike from all corners
of the world..."

Dato' Sri Dr. Ng Yen Yen

Minister of Tourism, Malaysia

Malaysia’s contemporary art scene is a reecƟon of the country itself. It is

varied, mulƟcultural and resists stringent deniƟon.

Just like Malaysia, a naƟon whose historic sites, towers of modernity and
glimpses of nature promise surprises and memories on every visit.

For the rst Ɵme ever, Malaysia’s Ministry of Tourism hosts the 1Malaysia
Contemporary Art Tourism FesƟval.

The fesƟval encompasses exhibiƟons, seminars, compeƟƟons and other fringe

events at various locaƟons around the country.

Come see how Malaysia’s renowned contemporary arƟsts have expertly woven
her history, naƟonal idenƟty, landscapes and people into painƟngs,
sculptures, photographs, installaƟons and more.

Whether it is abstract works that channel arƟsƟc soul, mixed media art that
shows oī arƟsƟc ingenuity or guraƟve works that display arƟst prowess,
Malaysia has it all.
Fatamorgana #2 The State of Confusion > 2006, oil on canvas, 244 x 150cm

The 1Malaysia Contemporary Art Tourism FesƟval is not to be missed. Visit

Malaysia and take part in history.

Events in Kuala Lumpur, Melaka, Johor and Penang | JUL 1 – SEPT 30, 2010 |

MCAT ExhibiƟon 2010 Art Seminar

Galeria Sri Perdana Starhill Gallery The Inuence of Mahathirism on The Aliya & Farouk Khan
3 July – 30 September 2010 July – September 2010 Contemporary Art CollecƟon Art Seminar
www.arkib.gov.my www.starhillgallery.com MaTic, Jalan Ampang Galeri Seni Rakyat, Melaka
20 – 24 September 2010 1 – 3 August 2010
Malaysia Tourism Centre (MaTic) Galeri Seni Rakyat (Folk Art Gallery)
15 July – 30 September 2010 1 August – 30 September 2010 IMCAS 2010 –The Aliya & Farouk Malaysia Contemporary
www.mtc.gov.my www.perzim.gov.my Khan CollecƟon Art Seminar Art Tourism Seminar
Danga City Mall, Johor Penang
Balai Seni Lukis Negara i-City Contemporary Art ExhibiƟon 27 September – 1 October 2010 18 – 19 August 2010
(NaƟonal Art Gallery) 11 August – 9 September 2010
July – September 2010 A Curatorial Discourse on the MALAYSIA’S FIRST EVER
www.artgallery.gov.my IMCAS 2010 Danga City Mall Making of an Artwork ART AUCTION
July – September 2010 12 Gallery, Kuala Lumpur Wisma Bentley Music
Galeri Petronas (Petronas Gallery) www.dangacitymall.com 8 – 10 July 2010 PJU 7/2, MuƟara Damansara
July – September 2010 Petaling Jaya
www.galeripetronas.com.my 1-8 August 2010

MINISTRY OF TOURISM MALAYSIA

Menara Dato' Onn, Putra World Trade Centre, 45 Jalan Tun Ismail, 50480 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 603-2693 7111 www.motour.gov.my www.tourismmalaysia.gov.my
 dubaidiary

UPCOMING
THE HOT LIST
The best nightlife, spas and restaurants.
EVENTS

IFTARS
Ewaan This Ramadan there is no better place to enjoy an alluring Arabian
experience than at the Iftar buffet at Ewaan. The interior design and the RAMADAN ART BAZAAR
bustling authentic atmosphere promise a perfect Arabian night. Iftar buffet is AUGUST 15 TO SEPTEMBER 9
from sunset to 9pm
As part of celebrating Ramadan
The Palace – The Old Town, Downtown Dubai, Tel: +971 4 428 7951
this year, the renowned Al Ghaf
Armani/Mediterraneo Savour breathtaking views of the Dubai Fountain Gallery in Abu Dhabi is presenting
while breaking fast at this elegant yet relaxed new restaurant. The Iftar buffet the Ramadan Art Bazaar. The
serves the finest cuisine from the Mediterranean region and beyond. event gives 24 emerging artists
Armani Hotel, Burj Khalifa, Tel: +971 4 367 3699
the opportunity to showcase their
The Terrace ‘Ramadan Nights at The Terrace’ offers the chance to enjoy a creations. With prices capped at a
variety of gourmet delights as you relax with friends and family by the beautiful maximum of Dhs4,000, it offers an
waterfront of the Dubai Creek. A full Ramadan Sohour menu is available. exciting chance to own an original
Park Hyatt, Deira, Dubai, Tel: +971 4 317 2222 work by up-and-coming artists.
Viewing hours are 9am – 1pm and
8pm – 11pm Saturday to Thursday.
SPAS ghafgallery.blogspot.com
Caracalla Spread over three floors, Caracalla is well worth a visit for the
Roman-themed baths, excellent gym and the deft ability of the highly trained
‘BLUE SKIE’D AND
therapists to ease away city stress and leave you thoroughly rejuvenated.
Le Royal Méridien, Dubai Marina, Tel: +971 4 399 5555 CLEAR’ – EXPANDING THE
PHOTOGRAPHIC HORIZON
The Spa at The Address Dubai Mall Flawless service, expert therapists, a UNTIL SEPTEMBER 15
broad selection of treatments and a great terrace pool are just a few reasons to Carbon 12 is a popular international
visit this top class spa. All within the understated design elegance synonymous
art gallery in Dubai that focuses
with Address hotels.
The Address Dubai Mall, Downtown Dubai, Tel: +971 4 438 8888 on international contemporary fine
art. This group exhibition features
Urban Male Lounge This brand new counterpart to the DIFC spa continues the photographic work of Birgit
its successful formula of providing male indulgence in looking and feeling sharp. Graschopf, Yuko Ichikawa, Maria
With an extensive treatment menu, you can enjoy a hand and foot massage, hair
Maeser, Jamie Baldridge, Maximillian
cut, beard trim, facials and more – all while watching your own personal TV.
Mall of the Emirates, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai, Tel: +971 4 406 8999 Pramatarov and Hazem Mahdy.
carbon12dubai.com

RESTAURANTS RAMADAN FAIR

Andiamo! Italian food with flare and a casual yet exuberantly stylish interior AUGUST 19 – SEPTEMBER 11
distinguish Andiamo as a great place to eat. An authentic wood-burning oven Taking place in the neighbouring
cooks superb pizzas and the meats, pasta and seafood are equally good. emirate of Sharjah, the Ramadan Fair
Grand Hyatt, Garhoud, Dubai, Tel: +971 4 317 2222
is inspired by the grand celebrations
West Beach Bistro This new eaterie on The Walk presents fine gastronomical of Eid Al Fitr (breaking the fast).
fare from a chef that trained with Gordon Ramsey in the UK before bringing his Located in the Expo Centre Sharjah,
gastronomic talents to Dubai. Enjoy the understated design, wafting jazz and it is a multi-product consumer fair
refined innovative flavours. with family entertainment. Expo
Mövenpick Hotel Jumeirah Beach, Dubai Marina, Tel: +971 4 449 8888
Centre Sharjah is easily accessible
La Parrilla always features in restaurant awards for its steaks and Latin from Dubai International Airport.
American cuisine. The accolades are well deserved as the meat here is world ramadanfair.ae
class and cooked to perfection. The 25th floor view, live band and tasteful
design are just bonuses. WRITTEN EXCLUSIVELY FOR EMIRATES
Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai, Tel: +971 4 406 8999 BY THE EDITORS OF MAGAZINE.

52 Open Skies
 coolstuff

LET THESE
ENTERTAIN YOU
Your mobile does music and video, but plays second
stage when compared to these media maestros.
1 SONY NWZ-A845 | US$230 | sony.com
This is Sony’s attempt to quash the iPod Nano. It’s in
the same price territory as its 16GB counterpart, but
has a bigger, OLED screen and packs a decent pair of
bundled buds (worth about US$100). Movies look crisp
and clear, and the sound, via the ace noise cancelling
earphones, is second only to Apple’s ’Pod.

2 CREATIVE ZEN X-FI STYLE | US$150 | creative.com

This pint-sized portable has an impressive gigabyte-
to-pound ratio with cutesy stylings. It ticks all the
boxes, apart from Mac compatibility, with extensive
format support, FM radio and mic with a tiny (read
piddly) speaker. It can play AVI vids with clarity, but
the Sony and iPod dig up more detail. Still, for this
price, you can hardly complain.
1

3 APPLE IPOD NANO | US$215 | apple.com

The fifth-generation Nano looks quite like its
predecessor, but its list of extras includes a bigger
screen, FM radio and video camera. Get rid of the
bundled buds and the Nano sounds better than any of
the players here. Videos are sharp, although the screen 3
can be a bit small for films. Still, the iTunes store is
stocked with them as well as TV shows and music.

4 ARCHOS 3 VISION | US$115 | archos.com

It only has 8GB, but the Archos 3 Vision is great value.
An FM transmitter, FM radio and recording from radio
or built-in mic are spec highlights. Music is upbeat and
fun (although you’ll have to upgrade the earphones) and
4
movies are watchable even if the colours apper slightly
faded. Unfortunately, the touchscreen’s virtual scroll-wheel
is a tad inaccurate. 2

54 Open Skies
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 departure

The Pink Lake

LATITUDE: 14° 15’ 19”
LONGITUDE: -17° 14’ 2”

CO-ORDINATES ARE FOR ILLUSTRATIVE PURPOSES ONLY.

CORBIS

O
ne of the stranger sights in Senegal is Lake Retba, which
is also known as Lac Rose thanks to its pink hue caused
by cyanobacteria in the water. The lake is also known
●
for its high salt content which, like that of the Dead Sea,
● The Pink Lake allows people to float with no swimming required. Every litre of water
DAKAR SENEGAL contains around 280 grammes of salt, so it is no surprise that Lake
Retba supports a salt mining industry. The salt is collected from the
bottom of the shallow lake and transported by boat to shore where it
is packaged and sent to market. ❖

56 Open Skies
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Emirates News
■ Emvironment ■ Comfort in the Air ■ U.S. Customs & Immigration Forms ■ Route Map

New Order for Boeing 777-300ERs

Emirates has ordered 30 more Boeing 777- Albaugh, President and CEO of Boeing Commercial Above: (From left) Jim
300ER aircraft, worth around US$9.1 billion (AED Airplanes, were signatories. Albaugh, President
and CEO, Boeing
33.4 billion) in list prices, adding to its fleet of 71 Emirates once again affirmed its aim to become Commercial Airplanes,
H.H. Sheikh Ahmed
777-300ERs previously ordered, of which 53 are a global leader in air travel, with Dubai as a central bin Saeed Al Maktoum,
currently in service. gateway, and signals clear confidence in the growth Chairman and Chief
Executive, Emirates
The signing took place at last month’s of aviation. Airline and Group, H.H.
Farnborough Air Show and was witnessed by The 777-300ER will be operated with three Sheikh Mohammed bin
Rashid Al Maktoum,
His Highness Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al classes with eight First Class suites, 42 Business Prime Minister and
Maktoum, Prime Minister and Vice President of Class seats and 310 Economy Class seats plus Vice President of the
United Arab Emirates
the UAE and Ruler of Dubai. His Highness Sheikh a cargo payload of 20.1 tonnes. Emirates has 86 and Ruler of Dubai,
Ahmed bin Saeed Al Maktoum, Chairman and Chief 777s in service – three -200s, six -200ERs, 10 and David Joyce,
President and CEO,
Executive, Emirates Airline and Group, and Jim -200LRs, 12 -300s, 53 -300ERs and two freighters. GE Aviation.

August 2010 59
 Emirates news

Go There!
Emirates Holidays is offering tailor-made packages to Amsterdam
and Prague following the launch of Emirates’ direct flights to both
cities from Dubai.
Amsterdam, capital of The Netherlands, is famed for its diversity,
relaxed attitude and rich cultural history.
Prague, capital of the Czech Republic and a UNESCO World
Heritage site, has an almost fairytale quality with its medieval roots,
castles and cobbled courtyards.
Emirates Holidays’ Economy Class packages to Amsterdam from
Dubai range from AED6,289 to AED9,700 per person. Offers are valid
to 31st August 2010.
Economy Class packages to Prague from Dubai range from AED
3,914 per person to AED4,075 per person. Business Class packages
range from AED12,786 per person to AED12,947 per person. Offers
are valid to 12th September 2010.
Each package includes return flights with Emirates, three nights’
accommodation on a twin-sharing basis with breakfast, airport
transfers, room tax and service charges. Packages to Prague also
include a half-day city tour.
Skywards members will receive up to 20 per cent bonus Miles when
they book these packages. Terms and conditions apply.
Medieval castles lend a
fairytale atmosphere to For more information, contact Emirates Holidays on 800 5252 (from
Prague.
Dubai), visit emirates-holidays.com or contact preferred travel agents.

Dakar Offer
Senegal is famous for its hospitality but Emirates customers
now have another reason to visit this West African nation – a
free hotel stay in Dubai to break their journey.
To celebrate the launch of its new route to Dakar on
1st September 2010, Emirates is offering First Class and
Business Class passengers a complimentary stay at a
leading hotel in Dubai, plus a free 96 hour visa, when they
book a return flight to the Senegalese capital.
First Class passengers will receive a free two-night
stay at the five-star Jumeirah Emirates Towers Hotel,
while Business Class travellers will be offered a one-night
complimentary stay. The offer applies to return journeys
taken by passengers travelling exclusively
with Emirates between the 1st and
the 30th of September.

60 Open Skies
 Emirates news

Calling All Artists!

Cut the Cost of
Excess Baggage
A passenger who has purchased additional baggage service checks in at the airport.
Passengers travelling on Emirates
can cut the cost of excess baggage.
Just pre-pay online at emirates.com
and you can reduce what you pay
for additional bags by as much as
15 per cent.
Here’s how it works. First weigh
your bags. Then go to Manage
Your Booking on the emirates.com
website to buy your extra kilos.
On routes that charge for excess
baggage by weight, you can buy an
extra five, 10, 15, 20 or 25 kilos. On
routes that charge by the piece, you
can buy one, two or three additional
bags of up to 32 kilos each
Purchases are non-refundable and
non-transferable and must be made
between 24 hours and 90 minutes
before departure.
Terms and conditions apply. This
facility is available on most routes but
is not available for departures from
just a few select cities. Full details are
available at Manage Your Booking on
emirates.com.
Emirates launched a competition last
month to find promising artists
whose winning works will be
featured on the Gold, Silver
and Blue membership
cards of Skywards, the
airline’s frequent flyer
programme. In addition,
the winners will each
receive US$5,000 and
will be flown to Dubai
where they can display the
winning artwork and their
portfolio at the Art Dubai fair.
But hurry! The closing date for
entries is 31st August. The winners will be
announced on 25th September.
Skywards launched new-look
membership cards in January featuring
works by Damien Hirst, Christopher Ries
and Simone Cenedese. Now, the airline is
looking for fresh artworks to replace them.
For Gold cards, the challenge is to create
a work of art that embodies opulence and
luxury. For Silver, the winning work will
reflect sophistication, intelligence and
richness. For Blue, Emirates is looking for
something edgy, surprising and fresh that
challenges expectations.
For full details and to enter the
competition, go to ourfutureartists.com.

Emirates Launches New Lounge

Emirates recently celebrated the opening of its latest luxury lounge The new Emirates Lounge at Shanghai
Pudong International Airport.
in Shanghai. The lounge serves the airline’s First Class and Business
Class passengers and Gold members of Skywards travelling from
Pudong International Airport.
This is the 27th lounge to open on the Emirates network and the
second in China after Beijing. Emirates currently operates non-stop
flights between Dubai and Shanghai twice daily.
Located in the International Departure Concourse next to Gate 75,
the new lounge is the first dedicated lounge in Terminal 2 and the only
one in the airport that offers an extensive menu of complimentary hot
and cold gourmet dishes, plus a full bar service.
The lounge can hold 165 passengers at any one time. Its luxurious
amenities include designer shower rooms, cream leather couches,
52-inch plasma TVs and a fully equipped Business Centre with internet
access and wi-fi.

62 Open Skies
Tempting Offer for
Skywards Gold Members
The Meydan Hotel, overlooking Dubai’s Meydan
racetrack, raises the bar for five-star service, style and
sheer indulgence. All of which makes the hotel’s offer to
Skywards Gold members seriously attractive.
The offer includes a three-day stay at two-day rates,
a 50-per-cent discount when dining at Prime, Shiba and
Farriers restaurants, and a 20-per-cent discount on Friday
Brunch at Farriers (these discounts are not applicable during
horse-racing weekends). In addition, there’s a 10-per-cent
discount offered on gym membership and a complimentary
30-minute massage in the hotel’s spa upon joining.
The offer is valid from 25th July 2010 to 25th July 2011.
To make reservations, please call +971 4 364 7147 or
email meydanreservations@jumeirah.com

Football for Hope

As the 2010 FIFA
World CupTM final
reached its climax
in Johannesburg
last month, four
members of
Emirates’
cabin crew
discovered a whole Emirates cabin crew at the Football
new ball game. for Hope centre in the township of
Khayelitsha, Cape Town.
They visited the
Football for Hope Centre, in the Cape Town township of
Khayelitsha, which is funded by FIFA and the six Official
FIFA Partners – of which Emirates is one. The girls
(Carolina Rodriguez from Argentina, Joanna Boyd from
New Zealand, Vivienne Seiler from Canada and Claire
Overton from the UK) saw for themselves how Emirates
has helped to deliver long-term benefits through its
sponsorship of the FIFA World Cup.
The Football for Hope Centre in Cape Town, run by
Grassroot Soccer, is the first of 20 to be built throughout
Africa as part of the legacy of the 2010 FIFA World Cup.
The aim of each centre is to promote public health
education in disadvantaged communities through a
shared love of football.
The Cape Town centre has a superb turf pitch, which
is the main attraction but, in addition to football, it offers
a strong education programme with special emphasis on
teaching about HIV and AIDS. So young people not only
get to enjoy the beautiful game, but learn how to develop
a healthy lifestyle as well.
 ‘Emvironment’ (definition): Emirates’ environmental programme – a wide range of initiatives aimed at
continuously improving our environmental performance.

In the air and on the ground, the Emirates Group is committed to acting sustainably in the interests of our customers, our business, the
natural environment and the 100 plus destinations that we serve worldwide. The Group has already achieved numerous environmental
milestones – each month we will bring you the latest news of our efforts and commitment towards eco-efficiency and sustainability. In
this edition, we look at the world’s rapidly disappearing biodiversity and Emirates’ efforts to protect it.

BIODIVERSITY – WHAT’S THE PROBLEM?

Biodiversity or ‘species richness’ is defined as the variety of
life forms on the planet, or within a given area. The Global
Taxonomy Initiative believes that of the 13.8 million different
species estimated to be on Earth, only 1.7 million (12.8%)
have actually been identified. Of those that have been
identified, less than 1% have been studied.
The International Union for the Conservation of Nature
(IUCN) estimates that biodiversity loss is now occurring at
1,000 times the natural rate. Apart from the ethical issue
of species extinction there are also huge commercial and
human health implications as many species play critical
roles in ecosystem health. Many other species are important
potential sources of life-saving medicines. Key threats to
biodiversity include:
● Habitat loss and degradation
● Introduction of invasive alien species
● Over-exploitation of natural resources
● Pollution and diseases
● Human-induced climate change
WHAT IS EMIRATES DOING ABOUT IT?
Emirates is reducing its impact on the environment by
investing billions of dollars in the latest, fuel-efficient, low
emissions, low-noise aircraft. As part of our ‘Emvironment’
programme we are leading the way in reducing waste, and
maximising energy and water efficiency in ground operations.
Emirates has also pioneered the concept of conservation-
based luxury tourism projects, with developments in the UAE,
Australia and the Seychelles. These conservation projects
take on a special significance in 2010, the United Nation’s
International Year of Biodiversity.
Al Maha Desert Resort & Spa is located on a small
portion of the reserve and allows guests to experience the
natural beauty of the DDCR. The resort has been built using
sustainable building principles and helps fund ongoing
conservation works in the DDCR.
EMIRATES WOLGAN VALLEY RESORT & SPA –
AUSTRALIA
Emirates recently opened
its second conservation-
based luxury tourism
development in
Australia’s Wolgan Valley.
The resort is located on
just 2% of a magnificent
1,600 hectare conservation area, within the World Heritage-
listed Blue Mountains region. The area is home to the incredibly
rare Wollemi Pine (Wollemia nobilis), a living fossil plant.
As well as using sustainable building practices to protect and
minimise impacts on the local environment, the A$125 million
project also included the planting of nearly 200,000 indigenous
plant species. Parts of the site are also enclosed with specially
built ‘feral-proof’ fencing. These protected habitats will be used
for the re-introduction of endangered marsupial species such
as Potoroos and Bettongs.

EMIRATES AL MAHA DESERT RESORT & SPA - DUBAI
The wadis, deserts and coasts of the United Arab Emirates
are extremely fragile ecosystems, with 63 endangered animal
species in the UAE alone (IUCN, 2010). Emirates worked with
the Dubai government to set up the 225km2 Dubai Desert
Conservation Reserve (DDCR), the UAE’s first nature reserve,
which covers almost five per cent of Dubai’s total land area. The
DDCR is home to a number of threatened species, such as the
Arabian Oryx, Gordon’s Wildcat and the Arabian Red Fox.
EMIRATES CAP TERNAY RESORT & SPA –
SEYCHELLES
The latest Emirates conservation project is the Cap Ternay
resort, on the spectacular north-western tip of Mahé Island in
the Seychelles. Adjoining the Cap Matoopa Nature Reserve
and Baie Ternay Marine Sanctuary, the site is surrounded
by areas of ecological significance. The resort will include
extensive ecological restoration works, while adhering to
strict sustainable design principles.

If you require any further information regarding our Emvironment programme, please go to the ‘About Emirates’ tab
on emirates.com or email Paul Zissermann, Manager Environment Affairs at paul.zissermann@emirates.com

64 Open Skies
 Comfort in the air

To help you arrive at your

destination feeling fine and
refreshed, Emirates have
developed this collection
of helpful travel tips.
Regardless of whether you
need to rejuvenate for your
holiday or be effective at
achieving your goals on a
business trip, these simple
tips will help you to enjoy
your journey and time
onboard with Emirates today.

BEFORE YOUR JOURNEY DURING THE FLIGHT

❖ Consult your doctor before travelling if you have any medical
concerns about making a long journey, or if you suffer from a
respiratory or cardiovascular condition.
❖ Plan for the destination – will you need any vaccinations
or special medications?
❖ Get a good nights rest before the flight.
❖ Eat lightly and sensibly.
❖ Sucking and swallowing will help equalise your ear
pressure during ascent and descent.
❖ Babies and young passengers may suffer more acutely
with popping ears, therefore consider providing a dummy.
❖ Get as comfortable as possible when resting and
turn frequently.
❖ Avoid sleeping for long periods in the same position.

AT THE AIRPORT WHEN YOU ARRIVE

❖ Allow yourself plenty of time for check-in. ❖ Try some light exercise or read if you can’t sleep after arrival at
❖ Avoid carrying heavy bags through the airport and onto the your destination. It generally takes the body’s biological clock
flight as this can place the body under considerable stress. approximately one day to adjust per time zone crossed.
❖ Once through to departures try and relax as much as possible.

SMART TRAVELLER

FOR MORE TIPS

Rehydrate with water or
juices frequently. Drink tea
and coffee in moderation.
Carry only essential items
that you will need during
your flight.
AND ADVICE TO
HELP YOU TO ENJOY
Loosen your clothing, remove Light exercises on your
YOUR FLIGHT AND
your jacket and avoid anything lower legs and calf muscles ARRIVE AT YOUR
encourages blood flow and
pressing against your body that
constricts your blood circulation. helps reduce muscle fatigue
DESTINATION FEELING
and swelling in the feet. FRESH, LOOK OUT
FOR MESSAGES ON
AIRSHOW, OR REFER
TO YOUR INFLIGHT
ENTERTAINMENT
GUIDE FOR
Cabin air is drier than normal Apply a good quality skin
therefore we recommend moisturiser to ensure your
PROGRAMME
that you wear glasses skin doesn’t dry out due to DETAILS.
during flights. the drier cabin air.

August 2010 65
 Guide to US customs & immigration forms
Whether you’re travelling to, or through, the US today this simple guide to completing the US
customs and immigration forms will help to ensure that your journey is as smooth and hassle
free as possible.

The Cabin Crew will offer two forms when nearing your destination. Here we provide simple
guidelines on correctly completing the forms.

CUSTOMS DECLARATION FORM

All passengers arriving into the US need to complete a Customs Declaration Form. If you are travelling as a family this should be
completed by one member only. The form must be completed in English, in capital letters, and must be signed where indicated.

ARABIC

f_*_`˜A'f'E'u{z°'œ@'ž‰A' #' l0_¼c\`ƒ*™Gu>_{w±'„ •,Ÿ’9ʃdG

f'u{x¯'—_ƒ}A'1Et`A' ~Œ>cGv ’º%­'c†’A_(‘1_•®'f'1_•d{3'
c`m{y(™Gu>_{wB|5_p{4#­'š_@”_-¬E
f_jd˜±'f_C'ž ¯'—žm’A'= =b
s-'E)1_•d{3'l0ž¼c\`ƒ*ʃdG–›*Æ&_9
1 cGÁA'!_ -#­'f_jd˜Bc C'ž ¯'
l0ž¼Ÿ’9„ ?ždA'ʃdG_•@c’&_9“A~Œ>
2 f_9'12|6'uB#­'f_``{wB= =l s-#'™B)s9_{w±'a’7Ÿ,uG)1_•d{3­'
3 f_CEv’¯'_GÆ°' cBs°'–?_7/'u>#'
4
Fs-%')1_Gv(B_ ?E#'b'ÃA'= =/
¡9'u±'…1'v±' b#­'–{3'E”E#­'–{3­'c’&_ƒA'–{3' 1
5
6 c˜{wA'u›{xA'—ž A' /Æ ±'qG1_* 2
7 ™9“B_ƒd*e˜@'0%'_• >sGs¨Ÿ,uG12
8 E#'c{wBƱ'“gB c {4_±'š_ƒ}?„Bbu? ™Gu>_{w±'c’&_ƒA'/'u>#'/s9 3
cG_9uA'
9
10
š#'ʃdG )smd±'f_G­žA'¬š'ž˜ƒA' 4
11
ƒB“•¨e˜@'0%'_• >sGs¨Ÿ,uG 13 cG­žA'Ec˜Gs±'…1_{xA'“•{xG
_›d• ?sGv*c A_Bf'E/#'E#'fƕ9
_›A/_ƒG_BE#'¡@ÉB#'1­E/Ÿ’9 cAEsA' ™B1/_{5u‰{wA'2'ž, 5
c `˜,#­'fƕƒA_(
12 u‰{wA'2'ž,–?1 6
13
ƒB“•¨e˜@'0%'_• >sGs¨Ÿ,uG 14
f_˜ 9„ `’A!_ {4#' cG1_¦„&_{z( cB_?%­'s’( 7
14 sƒ*„&_{z(E#'f_jd˜•’AkGEÒA—spd{w*
”ž{5žA'“`?_›*1_Gv(e•?¡dA'š's’`A' 8
c {yp{4f_ ˜dŒBc(_g¤
)smd±'f_G­žA'³%'
15
c• ŒA'sGs¨Ÿ,uGʕ Œ•’A15
–{3'E#'c’-uA'–?1š'É}A'c@u{4 9
A0¬_¤„&_{z`A'„ •®c A_•,%­'
_D$E'u{4«¡dA'cG1_jdA'„&_{z`A'
_D1_{z-%'«El1_°'¬_› ’9”ž{y¯'
)smd±'f_G­žA'³%'
c A_•,%­'c• ŒA'sGs¨Ÿ,uG1'Ev’A
f_G­žA'¬ŸŒ`d{3¡dA'„&_{z`A'„ •®
)smd±'
/žƒ{yA'c?_}(„,'1 c˜ ‰{wA'
c’-uA'™B‹s›A' 10
“•¨e˜@'0%'_• >sGs¨Ÿ,uG11
³%'c A_dA'f_jd˜±'™B_H G#'ƒB
)smd±'f_G­žA'

Helpful ❖ Complete the forms prior to landing.

❖ Use a pen and write in capital letters.
Hints ❖ Complete every line.
❖ Ensure you write in the correct space.
❖ If you are in transit through the US, write ‘transit’ in the address field.
❖ If you make a mistake ask a member of Cabin Crew for a fresh form.

66 Open Skies
 IMMIGRATION FORM

The IMMIGRATION FORM I-94 (Arrival/Departure Record) should be completed if you are a non-US citizen in possession of
a valid US visa and your final destination is the US or if you are in transit to a country outside the US. A separate form must be
completed for each person, including children travelling on their parents’ passport. The form includes a Departure Record
which must be kept safe and given to your airline when you leave the US.

If you hold a US or Canadian passport, US Alien Resident Visa (Green

Card), US Immigrant Visa or a valid ESTA (see below) YOU ARE NOT
REQUIRED to complete an immigration form.

u‰{wA'2'ž,–?1 f
c’-uA'–?1š'É}A'c@u{4 g
cB_?%­'s’( h
c’-uA_(_› >eŒmdA'¡dA'c˜Gs±' i
_› >)É{4#_dA'1's{5%'«¡dA'c˜Gs±' j
ARABIC
“A“{y‰˜B)1_•d{3'l0ž¼c\`ƒ*ʃdG
¡`C_,c\`ƒ*™Bs@#_dA'Ÿ,uGEu>_{wB
c\`ƒ*ʃdG_•@_•› ’9„ ?ždA'El0ž•˜A'
”_‰7#­_(c{5_°'f'1_•d{3­'l0_¼
E#'™GsA'žA'“`?™B_› ’9„ ?ždA'E
u›{xA'—ž A' )É{4#_dA'1's{5%'qG1_*k s-#'™B)s9_{w±'a’7–˜¿!_ {5E#­'
c˜{wA' uB#­'—vA'0%'cBs°'–?_7/'u>#'
f_G­žA'¬‘/ž,E”Æ.š'ž˜ƒA' l
…1_{xA'“•{xGš#'ʃdG )smd±' c’&_ƒA'–{3' a
”Æ._› >– Œd{3¡dA'cG­žA'Ec˜Gs±'m ”E#­'–{3­' b
)smd±'f_G­žA'¬‘/ž,E c˜{wA'u›{xA'—ž A' /Æ ±'qG1_* c
_@ÉB#'¬(”_{y*­'–?1n c {w˜®'c˜7'ž±'s’( d
¾EÏA%­'sGÁA'o |w˜®' e

a ESTA (ELECTRONIC SYSTEM

b c
FOR TRAVEL AUTHORISATION)
d e
If you are an international traveller wishing to enter
f
the US under the Visa Waiver Programme it is now
h g
mandatory to apply for electronic authorisation
j i
(ESTA) at least 72 hours prior to your departure.
k
l
ESTA Facts:
m ❖ Children and infants require an individual ESTA.
n
❖ The online ESTA system will inform you whether
o your application has been authorised, not
authorised or if authorisation is pending.
❖ A successful ESTA application is valid for two years,
however this may be revoked or will expire along
with your passport.

Apply online at www.cbp.gov/esta

Nationalities eligible for the Visa Waiver*:

a Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech
c Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany,
b Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia,
d
Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxemburg, Malta, Monaco,
The Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San
Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea,
Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom**.
Cabin Crew will be happy to help if you
*Subject to change. **Only British Citizens qualify under the Visa
need assistance completing the forms. Waiver Programme.

August 2010 67
 Routes emirates now flies to more than 100 destinations
GREENLAND
GREENLAND

Western
Western
Europe
Europe
Gothenburg
Gothenburg
Kristiansand Kristiansand

SCOTLAND SCOTLAND Varnamo Varnamo

Falkenberg Falkenberg

Glasgow
Glasgow
Edinburgh Edinburgh
DENMARK DENMARK
Copenhagen Copenhagen
Newcastle
NewcastleSunderland Sunderland Nykobing Nykobing
N. IRELAND N. IRELAND Gdansk Gdansk
ENGLAND ENGLAND
IRELAND IRELAND Leeds Leeds Hamburg
Hamburg
Manchester Manchester
Dublin Liverpool
Dublin Liverpool
NETH. NETH.
Birmingham
Birmingham Rotterdam Rotterdam Amsterdam Amsterdam Berlin Berlin
Cork Cork
WALES WALES P O L A N DP O L A N D

London London BELGIUM

Brussels
Dusseldorf
BELGIUM
Brussels
Dusseldorf Wroclaw Wroclaw
Breslau Breslau
(Heathrow & Gatwick)
Frankfurt
(Heathrow & Gatwick)
Frankfurt
Luxembourg Luxembourg
Prague Prague
CZECH CZECH
Paris Paris
GERMANY GERMANY Kiru
ViennaVienna
Morlaix Morlaix SLOVAKIA SLOVAKIA
Rennes Rennes
Le Mans Le Mans Munich
Joigny Joigny Munich Bratislava Bratislava
Zurich Zurich
AUSTRIA AUSTRIA
Nantes Nantes LIECH. LIECH. Budapest Budapest SWEDEN
FRANCE
Poiters FRANCE
SWITZERLAND
Poiters SWITZERLAND HUNGARY HUNGARY
Echo Bay Echo Bay Geneva Geneva SLOVENIA SLOVENIA Lulea

MilanLyon Milan ICELANDCROATIA

Ljubljana Ljubljana
ICELAND Zagreb Zagreb
Lyon CROATIA
Skelleftea
Baker Lake Baker Lake
Nuuk Nuuk
Bordeaux I T A L Y
Bordeaux
Reykjavik Venice
I T A L Y
Reykjavik Venice
BOSNIA BOSNIA
Bayonne Nice Nice Monaco
Ostersund Os
Bayonne Toulouse Toulouse Monaco Sarajevo Sarajevo
Oviedo Oviedo Ancona Ancona
Rankin Inlet Rankin Inlet Lugo Lugo Marseille Marseille
Burgos ANDORRA
Burgos ANDORRA Torshavn Torshavn NORWAY NORWAY
Vigo Vigo YUGOSLAVIAYUGOSLAVIA

Porto Zaragoza
Porto Zaragoza Rome Rome Oslo Oslo
MadridMadrid
Naples Naples
Taranto Taranto StockholmStockTa
Fort Chipewyan
Fort Chipewyan Churchill Churchill
Juneau Juneau S P A I N S P A I N
Valencia Valencia
Inukjuak Inukjuak PORTUGAL PORTUGAL
Lisbon Lisbon Valdepenas Valdepenas Gothenburg
Gothenburg
Bear Bear Fort McMurrayFort McMurray SCOTLANDSCOTLAND
Lake Lake Dawson CreekDawson Creek DENMARKDENMARK
Thompson Thompson Glasgow Glasgow Copenhagen
CopL
Grande PrairieGrande Prairie
Flin Flon Flin Flon NewcastleNewcastle
N. IRELAND
N. IRELAND
Prince Rupert Prince Rupert ENGLANDENGLAND Gdan
Prince Prince Prince Albert Prince Albert Hamburg Hamburg
POLAND P
Labrador City Labrador City Manchester NETH.
Manchester NETH.
George George
Red Deer Red Deer BirminghamBirmingham
U. K. U. K. W
Saskatoon Saskatoon
Calgary Calgary CANADA CANADA IRELAND IRELAND
WALES WALES GERMANYGERMANY
Kamloops Kamloops London London
Moosonee Moosonee DusseldorfDusseldorf
Krak
Swift Current Swift Current
VancouverVancouver Brandon Brandon Frankfurt Frankfurt
Timmins Amos
Timmins Amos Paris Paris
Williston Williston
Spokane Spokane
Grand Forks Grand Forks Munich Munich
AUSTRIA AUST
Seattle Seattle Nantes NantesZurich Zurich Vienna
Butte Butte Duluth Duluth
Ottawa Montreal Montreal
Ottawa SWITZ. SWITZ.
FRANCE FRANCE
Minneapolis
Minneapolis Venice Veni
Toronto
Toronto
Portland Portland Milan Milan
Bayonne BayonneNice Nice
ITALY ITALY
SERBIA
Twin Falls Twin Falls MilwaukeeMilwaukee
Detroit Detroit
A T LA AT LN AT N
I CT I C
Buffalo Buffalo MONTENEGRO
M
Scottsbluff ScottsbluffChicago Chicago Boston Boston M
Zaragoza Zaragoza Rome Rome
Reno Reno
Provo Provo
Kansas City
Omaha Omaha
Kansas City Baltimore
ToledoToledo
Baltimore New York
New York Madrid Madrid Naples ALBAN
Nap
PORTUGAL PORTUGAL
SPAIN SPAIN G
Philadelphia
Philadelphia

Tunis Tunis Athen

Denver Denver U. S. A. St.U. S. A. St. Louis Ponta Delgada
Ponta Delgada
Oakland Oakland Louis Washington Washington
D. C. D. C. Lisbon Lisbon
Sevilla Sevilla
San Francisco
San Francisco Norfolk Norfolk
Las Vegas Memphis Memphis
Albuquerque Albuquerque
Las Vegas Charlotte Charlotte Gibraltar Gibraltar
Algiers Algiers
Malta
Los Angeles
Los Angeles
TUNISIA TUNISIA
Casablanca
Casablanca
Rabat Rabat
Dallas Dallas
Tripoli Tripoli
Tucson Tucson Birmingham Atlanta
Birmingham Atlanta Ouargla Ouargla
San DiegoSan Diego MOROCCOMOROCCO
New Orleans Jacksonville
New Orleans Jacksonville
Canary Islands
Canary Islands ALGERIA ALGERIA
Houston
Houston
Tampa Tampa Reggane Reggane Sabhah Sa
WESTERNWESTERN
MEXICO MEXICO THE BAHAMAS
THE BAHAMAS LIBYA
SAHARA SAHARA
Havana Havana Djanet Djanet
Al Ja
MALI MALI
Mexico City
Mexico City CUBA CUBA DOM. REP.DOM. REP.
MAURITANIA
MAURITANIA Bilma Bilma
JAMAICA JAMAICA
P A PC AI FCIICF I C
Araouane Araouane
BELIZE BELIZE HAITI HAITI Nouakchott
Nouakchott NIGER NIGERCHAD
HONDURASHONDURAS SENEGAL SENEGAL
GUATEMALA
GUATEMALA
Dakar Dakar Bamako Bamako
Niamey Niamey
EL SALVADOR NICARAGUA
EL SALVADOR NICARAGUA GAMBIA GAMBIA
BURKINA FASO
BURKINA FASONIGERIA NIGERIAN’Djamena
O C OE C
A EN A N
Caracas Caracas GUINEA BISSAU
GUINEA BISSAU
GUINEA GUINEA BENIN BENIN
GHANA GHANA Abuja Abuja
Conakry Conakry TOGO TOGO
COSTA RICA
COSTA RICA Freetown Freetown COTE COTE
Georgetown
Georgetown
LagosLagos
D'IVOIRE D'IVOIREPorto Novo Porto Novo CENTRAL C
A
SIERRA LEONE
SIERRA LEONE
Abidjan
Abidjan
PANAMA PANAMA VENEZUELA
VENEZUELA ParamariboParamaribo
Bogota BogotaGUYANA GUYANA REPUB
Accra Accra Yaounde Yaounde
Lome Lome
FRENCH GUIANA
FRENCH GUIANA CAMEROON CAMEROON
SURINAMESURINAME LIBERIA LIBERIA Malabo Malabo Bang
COLOMBIACOLOMBIA EQUATORIALEQUATORIAL
GUINEA GUINEA
SAO TOME & SAO
PRINCIPE
TOME & PRINCIPE REPUBLIC OFRE
Quito
ECUADORECUADOR Quito Libreville Libreville
CONGO CO
Sao Tome Sao Tome
GABON GABON Dem
Manaus Manaus Belem Belem CON
Fortaleza Fortaleza BrazzavilleBrazzav
Talara Talara
PERU PERU Sao Goncalo
Sao Goncalo Kinshasa

Trujillo Trujillo Porto Velho Porto Velho

Cachimbo Cachimbo
Recife Recife O C OE C
A EN A N Luanda
Luanda
BRAZIL BRAZIL Barreiras Barreiras
Lima Lima Huambo
BOLIVIA BOLIVIA

Middle
Middle
EastEast
Salvador Salvador
Cuiaba Brasilia
Cuiaba Brasilia ANGOLA A
La Paz La Paz
Goiania Goiania
Sucre Sucre NAMIBIA NAM
Belo Horizonte
Belo Horizonte BO
Varna Varna Sochi Sochi OrdzhonikidzeOrdzhonikidze
Aqtau Aqtau
Burgas Burgas Nukus Nukus
Poti Tbilisi Poti Tbilisi Windhoek W
Zonguldak Zonguldak Campinas Campinas
Rio De Janeiro
Rio De Janeiro
Istanbul Istanbul PARAGUAY PARAGUAY Walvis BayWalvis Bay
São Paulo
São Paulo
Bursa Ankara
Bursa Ankara Yerevan Yerevan Antofagasta Antofagasta
Baku Baku
TURKMENISTAN
TURKMENISTAN Curitiba Curitiba
Johannes
Joh
TURKEY TURKEY Asuncion Asuncion
Izmir Izmir
Ardabil Ardabil CHILE
Ashgabat Ashgabat CHILE
TehranTehran
Tabriz Tabriz Luderitz
Luderitz
Antalya Antalya
Adana Adana Blo
Aleppo Aleppo
Nicosia Nicosia
Mosel Mosel Porto Alegre
Porto Alegre
SYRIA SYRIA
Beirut Beirut
Iraklion Iraklion Mashhad Mashhad

Damascus
Damascus
Bakhtaran Bakhtaran SOUTH

AmmanAmman Baghdad Baghdad

Herat Herat
IRAN IRAN Rosario Rosario
Jerusalem Jerusalem
Esfahan Esfahan Santiago Santiago
ARGENTINA
URUGUAYURUGUAY
ARGENTINA Cape Town
Cape Tow
Alexandria Alexandria IRAQ IRAQ Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires
Cairo Cairo
Port Said Port Said
JORDAN JORDAN Basra Basra Kerman Kerman Montevideo
Montevideo
KuwaitKuwait
Suez Suez Concepcion Concepcion
Zahedan Zahedan
Shiraz Shiraz
Bam Bam
Beni Beni
Neuquen Neuquen

Dammam Dammam Bandar AbbasBandar AbbasValdivia

El-Minya SuefEl-Minya Suef
Valdivia

Bahrain Bahrain
EGYPT EGYPT
Al Medinah
Al Medinah
Aswan Aswan
RiyadhRiyadhDoha Doha
Muscat Muscat
Jeddah Jeddah
Mecca Mecca
Al Khaluf Al Khaluf Comodoro Rivadavia
Comodoro Rivadavia

Port Sudan Port Sudan

SAUDI ARABIA
SAUDI ARABIA
OMAN OMAN
Atbara Atbara

Sana’aSana’a
SUDAN SUDAN
Al Ghaydan Al Ghaydan
Salalah Salalah
Khartoum Khartoum
Asmara Asmara YEMEN YEMEN
Al Mukalla Al Mukalla Port Stanley
Port Stanley
Al Fashir Al Fashir Mekele Mekele Taizz Taizz
Aseb Aseb
Djibouti Djibouti
 A R AC RT C
I CT I C O C OE C
A EN A N

From
From
thethe
Flight
Flight
Deck
Deck
Westbound
Depending on the time of departure for some Ust-Olenek Ust-Olenek

of our longer Westbound flights we may be Khatanga Khatanga

‘chasing’ a setting sun. This can create the Volochanka Volochanka

Alta Alta feeling of a flight lasting for longer than it Dudinka Norilsk
Dudinka Norilsk
Antipayuta Antipayuta Belaja Gora Belaja Gora

Murmansk Murmansk actually does because the sun never really sets.
una Kiruna
It just hangs in the Western sky. From the flight
Vorkuta Vorkuta
Igarka Igarka
Batagay Batagay

N SWEDEN
a Lulea
deck the sky takes on an incredible rich aqua
Skelleftea
marine hue that is hard to describe. Sangar Sangar
Archangelsk Archangelsk R U S S RI A
U S S I A
FINLAND
stersund FINLAND
Vaasa Vaasa Mirnyj Mirnyj

Captain Robert Scaddan

Jakutsk Jakutsk
Syktyvkar Syktyvkar
Nizhnevartovsk
Nizhnevartovsk
Helsinki Helsinki
Boeing 777 Magadan Magadan
kholm
allinn Tallinn St. Petersburg Vologda
St. Petersburg Vologda
Kirov Kirov
Flying with Emirates for 6 years and 7 months
ESTONIA ESTONIA
Novgorod Novgorod Perm Perm Bodaybo Bodaybo
Riga Riga
Jaroslavl Jaroslavl SverdlovskSverdlovsk
LATVIARostov RostovGorkiy GorkiyIzevsk
Moscow
Moscow
LATVIA Izevsk Krasnojarsk Bratsk
Krasnojarsk Bratsk
penhagen
LITHUANIA LITHUANIA
Kazan Kazan Chelyabinsk
Chelyabinsk
Omsk Omsk
Vilnius Vilnius Ufa Ufa
Minsk
nsk Gdansk Minsk Novosibirsk
Novosibirsk
POLAND Tol Yatti Tol Yatti
Orol Orol KuybyshevKuybyshevRudnyy Rudnyy
BELARUS BELARUS Irkutsk Irkutsk Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskij
Petropavlovsk-Kamchatskij
Warsaw Warsaw Voronez Voronez
Saratov Saratov Atbassar Atbassar
Ulan Ude Ulan Ude
Kiev Kiev
kow Lviv
Krakow Lviv
Aktyubinsk Aktyubinsk
UKRAINE UKRAINE VolgogradVolgograd Qaraghandy
Qaraghandy Khabarovsk Khabarovsk
KAZAKHSTAN
KAZAKHSTAN Hovd Hovd Ulaanbaatar
Ulaanbaatar
TRIA
MOLDOVAMOLDOVA Qiqihar Qiqihar Juzno Sachalinsk
Juzno Sachalinsk
Frunze Frunze Aralsk Aralsk Balqash Balqash MONGOLIA
Altay MONGOLIA
Vienna Altay
ROMANIA ROMANIA Karamay Karamay Harbin JixiHarbin Jixi
ice
BucharestBucharest
KrasnodarKrasnodar Urumqi Urumqi Changchun
Changchun
Jilin Jilin
A SERBIA
ConstantaConstanta Alma Ata Alma Ata Dalandzadagad
Dalandzadagad
Sapporo Sapporo
O BULGARIA BULGARIA
MONTENEGRO UZBEKISTAN UZBEKISTAN Bishkek Bishkek Fuxin Fuxin
Korla Korla
Istanbul
Istanbul
GEORGIA GEORGIA Hami Hami
MACEDONIA MACEDONIA KYRGYZSTANKYRGYZSTAN Benxi Benxi
Baotou Baotou
BeijingBeijing
AZERBAIJAN AZERBAIJAN NORTH KOREA
NORTH KOREA
NIA
ples ALBANIA ARMENIA ARMENIA Tashkent Tashkent
Kashi Kashi
C H I N A
C H I Yumen
N A Yumen
GREECE GREECE Ankara Ankara TURKMENISTAN
TURKMENISTAN
PyongyangPyongyang
IzmirTURKEY TURKEY
nsAthens
Izmir TAJIKISTAN TAJIKISTAN Qiemo Qiemo Yinchuan Yinchuan
Seoul Seoul
Ashgabat Ashgabat Dalian Dalian
Adana Adana Hotan Hotan
Xining XiningTaiyuan Taiyuan Sendai Sendai
Tokyo Tokyo
Golmud Golmud
Qingdao Qingdao SOUTH KOREA
Malta Nicosia Peshawar
Peshawar
SOUTH KOREA
Larnaca Larnaca
IRAQ IRAQTehran Tehran Lanzhou LanzhouKaifeng Kaifeng
Kabul KabulIslamabad OsakaOsaka
Nicosia

Islamabad
Bakhtaran Bakhtaran
LEBANONLEBANON
SYRIA SYRIA Xian Xian
Baghdad Esfahan
Baghdad Esfahan JAPAN JAPAN
AFGHANISTAN
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Cairo Cairo Shiraz Shiraz Zigong Yueyang Yueyang
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abhah PAKISTANPAKISTAN Dukou Dukou
EGYPT EGYPT Jaipur Jaipur
Agra Agra Fuzhou Fuzhou
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Karachi Karachi Taipei Taipei
LIBYA Riyadh Riyadh Allahabad Allahabad
Varanasi Varanasi Xiamen Xiamen

Ahmedabad DhakaDhaka
Ahmedabad Guangzhou Guangzhou
awf Al Jawf Aswan Aswan Muscat Muscat Shantou Shantou
TAIWAN TAIWAN

SAUDI ARABIA
Mecca
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Surat Nagpur
Surat Kolkata
Nagpur Kolkata MYANMAR MYANMAR Hong Kong
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LAOS Hanoi
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Mumbai Mumbai
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CHAD
Khartoum Khartoum
ERITREA ERITREA YEMEN YEMEN
OMAN OMAN
Hyderabad
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Hyderabad THAILAND THAILAND

Vientiane Vientiane
VIETNAM VIETNAM
P A PC AI FCIICF I C
ManilaManila
Asmara Asmara
Bangkok Bangkok
Sanaa Sanaa INDIA INDIA
SUDAN SUDAN
Bengaluru
Bengaluru Chennai Chennai PHILIPPINES
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KozhikodeKozhikode
aN’Djamena DJIBOUTI DJIBOUTI Phnom Penh Phnom Penh

Waw Waw
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AbabaAbaba Kochi Kochi
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O C OE C
A EN A N
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SRI LANKASRI LANKA
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CENTRAL
AFRICAN AFRICAN ETHIOPIA ETHIOPIA
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gui Bangui
e UGANDA UGANDA
KENYA KENYA
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Lumpur Lumpur MALAYSIAMALAYSIA

Entebbe
EPUBLIC OF
ONGO Entebbe Eldoret Eldoret
MogadishuMogadishu
Singapore Singapore
m. of Dem. of
Nairobi
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RWANDA RWANDA
NGO CONGO
ville BURUNDI BURUNDI I N ID NO DN OE NS EI S
A I A

Jakarta
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a Kinshasa PAPUA PAPUA
Seychelles
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Kananga TANZANIATANZANIA
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Dar esDar
Salaam
es Salaam
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Likasi Likasi Port Moresby

Port Moresby
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Huambo
ZAMBIA ZAMBIA Lilongwe
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ANGOLA
Lusaka Lusaka Cairns Cairns

MIBIA Harare
OTSWANA BOTSWANA
ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE
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I NI AD NI A N Broome Broome
Tennant CreekTennant Creek

Port Hedland Port Hedland

O C OE C A EN A N
Mackay Mackay
Windhoek MADAGASCAR MADAGASCAR Learmonth Learmonth
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AUSTRALIA Alice Springs NEW CALEDONIA
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hannesburg
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Pretoria Pretoria Carnarvon Carnarvon
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oemfontein
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SWAZILANDSWAZILAND
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a complete
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© 2010.
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