TEST KITCHEN TIPS

Simplify Your Thanksgiving, p. 95

FO R P EO P L E W H O LOV E TO C O O K

TOOLS OUR
FAVORITE
CHEFS Cant
Live Without 4 TAKE S O N
Crazy-Delicious PO R K C HO P S
GET
CREATIVE
with
LEFTOVERS
Buttery
CRUMB-TOPPED
Cake, Cookies,
and Muffins

OCT/NOV 2017 No.149 WIN

www.finecooking.com
A FREE
HOLIDAY CELEBRIT Y
CRUISE!
MAINS DETAILS
VEGETARIANS Page 18
WILL LOVE
 B e g i n n e rs lu c k has
n o t h i n g to do with it.

More delicious results every time. Even the first.

Wolf s precise control of heat and airflow takes
guesswork out of cooking. Tell our convection
steam oven what youre making. Its digital
sensors know precisely the combination of
steam and dry heat to make even daunting
dishes a piece of cake. Or a tray of souffls, as
the case may be. wolfappliance.com

Wolf Convection Steam Oven

facebook.com/ColavitaOliveOil
ColavitaOil
youtube.com/ColavitaOliveOil
@ColavitaOil
ColavitaOliveOil
Colavita Olive Oil
JOIN OUR

EXPLORE OUR RECIPES

on
COLAVITARECIPES.COM
 CONTENTS
october/november 2017
issue 149

f e at u r e s

56 Vegetarian Holiday
Three experts create delicious, meatless dishes
that can play a starring role at any holiday feast.

64 Make Fennel a Favorite

Become a fan of its anise avor in four
fabulous recipes.
By Martha Holmberg

70 Dressed Up Pork Chops

Seared, stuffed, pan-roasted, and breaded and pan-
fried, these four recipes will soon become some of
your favorite go-to dinner optionseven for guests.
By Ronne Day

78 Chefs Favorite Tools

The pros tell us what kitchen equipment they love
the most and why.

80 Get Rolling
Pogaca, light, airy rolls from Turkey, are wonderful
with, well, turkey; try them plain or stuffed.
By Maura Kilpatrick

86 Streusel
Usually a supporting player, this crumbly, buttery
topping gets its chance to shine in desserts and
baked treats.
By Karen DeMasco

Crisp fennel pairs with oranges,

black olives, and pistachios for
a refreshing salad; see p. 69.

6 47<31==97<5/C5/SEPT 2015
 CONTENTS
o c t/ n o v 2 0 1 7 i s s u e 1 4 9

28

30

96

28

97

27
27

95

d e pa r t m e n t s

27 What Were Cooking Now 3 WAYS WITH...

in every issue
Guava, Chanterelles, Watercress, 34 Leftover Turkey 15 EDITORS NOTE
Mustard Greens, Parsnips, Pears, Transform extra Thanksgiving turkey 18 CONTRIBUTORS
Pecans into a glorious pasta, a satisfying 21 #FINECOOKING
soup, or a terrific turnover. 22 MENUS

1]\bS\ba^V]b]U`O^VaPgAQ]bb>VWZZW^a)T]]RabgZW\UPg8]O\DSZcaVO\R@]\\S2Og
GREAT FINDS 100 SOURCES

28 Go with the Grain 101 NUTRITION

39 Make It Tonight 102 RECIPE INDEX
Wood is the material of the
Fresh and easy weeknight cooking
moment, bringing durability and
warmth to the kitchen and table.
95 Test Kitchen
BOOKS THAT COOK Tips, techniques, equipment,
ingredients, and more, for your p. 95
32 The Reading List best Thanksgiving
Delicious dishes created with the
home cook in mind
p. 78
p. 70
p. 34

p. 86

p. 56

8 47<31==97<5=1B<=D % Cover photograph by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day
 THE TASTE OF
I R E L A N D,
IN YOUR
B A C K Y A R D.

M ade i n Ire l a n d wi t h mi l k fro m g ras s - fed c o ws, its a tas te that s ays a thousand w o rds.
10 47<31==97<5=1B<=D %
 ADVERTISEMENT

FALL FOR
COPPER
CORE
Its easy to cook delicious harvest
dishes with high-performance
cookware.

Markets and grocery store bins are brim-

ming with gorgeous fresh vegetables
and fruits right now, so theres no better
time to prepare fabulous meals. Start
with high-quality pans, such as the All-
Clad Copper Core line, to help you turn this
seasons bounty into amazing dishes your
family will love.
Known for remarkably high-quality
cookware, All-Clad offers superior heat
distribution and rapid temperature respon-
siveness in its ve-ply Copper Core line.
The pots and pans perform perfectly on all
cooking surfaces and clean with the ease
of stainless steel.

Cookware provided by All-Clad

roast chicken
with carrots,
baby potatoes,
leeks, and bacon

EQUIPMENT NEEDED FOR RECIPES

2-qt. Copper Core Saucepan

10-in. Fry Pan

6-qt. Round Roaster

6-qt. Saute Pan 5.5-qt. Dutch Oven
 buttern
dried c
Elegant yet
thanks to t
and the ric

  ;IZ\U
  Z THSSS
[ZW
  ;IZL_
  SII\[[
PUJO
  2VZOLY
  T
 LKP\T
PUJ
  J\WJO
  VaTH
[OPJRZ
JOVWWL
HIV\[
  V aJVH
HIV\[
  ;IZ[V

Melt the butt

over medium
ally, until the
5 minutes. R
zest and juic

spiced parsnip soup

The parsnips sweetness is perfectly complemented by the
Madeira wine. :LY]LZ

  ;IZ\UZHS[LKI\[[LY
  ;IZVSP]LVPS
  J\WKPJLKVUPVUZ
  ;IZMPULS`JOVWWLKNHYSPJ
  J\W4HKLPYH
  J\WZSV^LYZHS[JOPJRLUIYV[O
  IH`SLHM
  SIWHYZUPWZWLLSLKJVYLK
HUKJ\[PU[VPUJOWPLJLZ
  [ZWJPUUHTVU
  [ZWU\[TLN
  [ZWJ\YY`WV^KLY
  2VZOLYZHS[HUKMYLZOS`NYV\UKISHJR
WLWWLY
  J\WOLH]`JYLHT
  :THSS;OHPIHZPSSLH]LZHUKI\KZ
  ,_[YH]PYNPUVSP]LVPSMVYZLY]PUN
In a large Dutch oven or soup pot heat the
butter and olive oil over medium high heat
until the butter has melted. Add the onions
and cook until they are soft and browned in
spots, about 4 to 6 minutes. Add the garlic
and continue to cook for another 15 sec-
onds. Add the Madeira and bring to a boil,
continuing to cook until the liquid has been
absorbed, about 5 minutes. Add the chicken
broth, bay leaf, parsnips, cinnamon, nut-
meg, curry powder, tsp. salt, and tsp.
pepper. Bring to a boil and cook until the
parsnips are very tender, about 15 minutes.
Using an immersion blender or working in
batches and transferring to a blender, blend
until smooth. If using a blender, return the
soup to the pot. Bring to a low boil. Lower
the heat to medium, add the heavy cream,
and heat through. Served garnished with The All-Clad Copper Core Dutch Oven is ideal
the basil and olive oil. for slow-cooking meats and vegetables or
simmering soups and stews.
 butternut squash with rainbow chard,
dried cherries, and pine nuts
Elegant yet comforting, this side dish has layers of avor
thanks to the avorful squash and bright cherries, the fresh chard,
and the rich salty-toasty top notes from the cheese and nuts. :LY]LZ
  ;IZ\UZHS[LKI\[[LY
  ZTHSSSLTVUMPULS`NYH[LK[V`PLSK
[ZWaLZ[HUKZX\LLaLK[V`PLSK[ZWQ\PJL
  ;IZL_[YH]PYNPUVSP]LVPS
  SII\[[LYU\[ZX\HZOWLLSLKHUKJ\[PU[V
PUJOKPJLHIV\[J\WZ
  2VZOLYZHS[
  TLKP\T`LSSV^VUPVUJ\[PU[V
PUJOKPJL
  J\WJOVWWLKKYPLKJOLYYPLZ
  VaTH[\YLYHPUIV^JOHYKSLH]LZ
[OPJRZ[LTZYLTV]LKHUKMPULS`
JOVWWLKZSPJLKPU[VPUJOYPIIVUZ
HIV\[[VWHJRLKJ\WZ
  VaJVHYZLS`NYH[LK.YHUH7HKHUV
HIV\[J\W
  ;IZ[VHZ[LKWPULU\[Z
Melt the butter in a small skillet or saucepan
over medium-low heat. Cook, swirling occasion-
ally, until the milk solids turn light brown, about
5 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the lemon
zest and juice, and swirl to combine.
eal
Heat the oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over
medium heat. Add the squash and tsp. salt;
toss well to coat.
Cover the pan with the lid ajar by about
1 inch. Turn the heat down to medium low
and cook, gently stirring occasionally, until the
squash begins to brown, 5 to 6 minutes. As the
mixture cooks, you should hear a gentle sizzle.
Turn the heat down to low, add the chopped
stems, onions, and cherries and cook, stirring
occasionally and then gently pushing the vege-
tables back into a single layer so that most have
direct contact with the pan, until the vegetables
are tender and browned, 12 to 15 minutes more.
Add the chard leaves and lemon butter and
toss gently until the chard is wilted, about 1 min-
ute. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the
cheese and pine nuts. Season to taste with salt.
Serve right away or let sit off the heat, partially
covered, until ready to serve, and then reheat
Deeper than a traditional fry pan, the All-Clad
gently over medium-low heat.
Copper Core 6-qt. Saut Pan features a large
surface area and tall, straight sides that hold
in juices and prevent splattering,
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 37
 roast chicken with carrots, baby
potatoes, leeks, and bacon
Sauting the leeks and garlic before layering them with the potatoes renders
them meltingly tender and slightly caramelized. The roast chicken on top
comes out incredibly juicy, with delicate herbal notes. :LY]LZ
  SI^OVSLJOPJRLU
  2
 VZOLYZHS[HUKMYLZOS`
NYV\UKISHJRWLWWLY
  ;IZMPULS`JOVWWLKMYLZOMSH[SLHM
WHYZSL`WS\ZZTHSSZWYPNZ
  MYLZOVYKYPLKIH`SLH]LZ
  ;IZMPULS`JOVWWLKMYLZO[O`TL
WS\ZZWYPNZ
  SHYNLSLLRZ^OP[LHUKSPNO[NYLLU
WHY[ZOHS]LKSLUN[O^PZL[OLUZSPJLK
JYVZZ^PZLPU[VPUJOWPLJLZHIV\[
J\WZHUKYPUZLK"KHYRNYLLUWHY[Z
MYVTSLLRYPUZLKHUKYLZLY]LK
  Z[YPWZ[OPJRJ\[IHJVUJ\[
JYVZZ^PZLPUJO[OPJR
  ;IZVSP]LVPS
  SHYNLJSV]LZNHYSPJ[OPUS`ZSPJLK
  SIJHYYV[ZWLLSLKHUKJ\[
PU[VWPLJLZ
  SIIHI`T\S[PJVSVYLKWV[H[VLZ
J\[PUOHSMVYX\HY[LYLK
  J\WZSV^LYZHS[JOPJRLUIYV[O
  ;IZ\UZHS[LKI\[[LYZVM[LULK
Discard the giblets from the chicken,
trim off any excess fat from the cavity
and neck, and pat dry with paper towels.
Generously season the chicken inside and
out with 1 Tbs. salt and tsp. pepper.
Stuff the cavity with the parsley sprigs, 3
of the bay leaves (if fresh, crush lightly), 2
sprigs of thyme, and the dark leek greens.
Tuck the wings behind the neck of the
chicken, using the wing tips to secure
any loose neck skin, if necessary. Tie the
legs together with string. Let rest at room
temperature for 20 to 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, position a rack in the
center of the oven and heat the oven
to 450F.
In the 6-qt. round roaster, cook the
Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day
bacon in the oil over medium-high heat,
stirring occasionally, until it begins to
brown, about 7 minutes. Leaving the
bacon in the pan, spoon out and reserve
all but 1 Tbs. fat.
Reduce the heat to medium and add
the leeks, garlic, and the remaining
bay leaf and thyme sprigs, and season
lightly with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring
occasionally, until the leeks are soft and
translucent, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to
a plate.
In the same pan, arrange half of the
carrots and potatoes in an even layer, sea-
38 47<31==97<5231 #/8/< $
son very lightly with salt and pepper, then
scatter the leek mixture over top. Layer
the remaining carrots and the potatoes
over the leeks, and season very lightly
with salt and pepper. Pour the broth over
the vegetables.
Pour 1 Tbs. of the reserved bacon
fat into the cavity of the chicken. Rub
the softened butter over the birds skin,
and sprinkle with the chopped thyme.
Set the chicken, breast side up, on the
vegetables.
warm pear compote
with vanilla cream
This thick, syrupy reduction is simple and delicious. Serve
over ice cream or with whipped cream. :LY]LZ[V"
`PLSKZHIV\[J\WZ
  J\WZHWWSLJPKLY JVYLKHUKJ\[PU[V
  ;IZWHJRLKKHYR PUJOWPLJLZHIV\[
IYV^UZ\NHY J\WZ
  [ZWNYV\UKJPUUHTVU   J \WNYHU\SH[LKZ\NHY
  J\W\UZHS[LKI\[[LY   J\WKYPLKJYHUILYYPLZ
  )VZJWLHYZWLLSLK   =
 HUPSSHPJLJYLHTMVY
ZLY]PUN
In a small saucepan, combine the cider, brown sugar, and
cinnamon. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium heat and
reduce by half, about 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, melt the butter in a saut pan over medium-
high heat. Add the pears and cook, stirring occasionally, for
10 minutes. Sprinkle with cup of the granulated sugar and
cook, stirring frequently, until the pears are very soft and
The All-Clad Copper Core Round nicely browned, about another 10 minutes. Add the cranber-
Roaster yields impressive roasts ries and cook for 3 minutes. Toss the pear mixture with the
and braises from stovetop to cider reduction. Set aside to cool. Serve over ice cream.
oven. An accompanying domed lid
promotes heat circulation and locks
in moisture.
Roast the chicken until an instant-read
thermometer inserted into the thickest
part of the thigh registers 165F to 170F,
about 1 hour.
Transfer the chicken to a platter,
remove the string, cover loosely with
foil, and let rest for about 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, discard the thyme sprigs and
bay leaf and keep the vegetables warm in
the oven.
Sprinkle the carrots and potatoes with
The All-Clad Copper Core 10-in. Fry Pan produces
the chopped parsley, arrange them around
beautifully browned and seared ingredients. A flat
the chicken, and serve.
bottom and flared sides allows for easy turning with
a spatula.
N OT E F R O M T H E E D I TO R
Stay Calm and Baste On
Ive been hosting Thanbsgiving dinner
for more than 20 years, and although Ive
gotten good at it, I cant say its ever a breeze.
Planning and timing are always a challenge,
even for seasoned cooks. Plus, something
always seems to unexpectedly go awry on the
big day: grabbing eggnog instead of cream for
the mashed potatoes (they were actually very
tasty), the dog eating the coveted homemade
apple pie, the power going out in the middle
of cooking. But over the years, Ive learned
some invaluable lessons, as Im sure most of
you who host this holiday have, too.
The best piece of advice I give to cooks
who are on tap to prepare the feast is to relax:
Remember, its just dinner. More practically,
always include one or two dishes that can be
made ahead and served at room temperature,
which helps you to manage the last-minute
rush of getting everything on the table. For
more tips on pulling off the day, our Test
Butternut Squash and Swiss Chard Lasagne (p. 59).
Pogaca rolls (p. 80).
Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day; Bottom photo by Bleacher+Everard
Kitchen section on p. 95 is all about cooking dishes that you can find on a special section of
the great American dinner, from advice on our website, FineCooking.com/Thanksgiving.
roasting and carving the turkey to making So stay calm and baste on. The tips and
the gravy ahead. If cooking for Thanksgiv- recipes in this issue and on FineCooking
ing seems daunting, we hope these tips and .com will help make your meal a success
techniques will make it less so. just watch out for the dog.
One big question for me is what new Enjoy! Kathy Kingsley,
dishes Ill bring to the table this year. As I editorial director
taste some of the delicious dishes in this issue, @finecooking
Im considering quite a few. I can tell you for
@katings_
certain that I will be making the Butternut
Squash and Swiss Chard Lasagne (p. 59) for
all the vegetarians (and omnivores, too), and Im excited to announce
one of the sides will be the fresh and flavorful that Season5 of Move-
shaved fennel salad (p. 69). The airy dinner able Feast with Fine
rolls (Turkish pogaca) on p. 80 definitely Cooking is now airing on
rise to Thanksgiving occasion, and I plan on local PBS stations. Join us
serving at least two variations: The spiced date this year as we travel to
butter and caramelized apple with raisins are Italy, France, and beyond
too good to pass up. Beyond whats on these to cook some amazing food with top chefs.
pages, there are many more holiday-inspired
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 15
 A DV E R T I S E M E N T

HARVEST DINNER
This easy, seasonal, and flavorful dish provides WITH
the perfect opportunity to unwind at the end of a busy
workday. Just saut turkey steaks, make a quick and
flavor-packed rice pilaf, and supper is served. Keep the relaxed
mood going by opening a bottle of Edna Valley Vineyard Pinot Noir
to accompany this seasonal meal. The wines vibrant palate is a
perfect partner for turkey and fall sides.

TURKEY BREAST WITH

CHESTNUT WILD RICE
Juicy, lean turkey tenderloin steaks are a
gift to weeknight cooks. They pair beau-
tifully with wild rice, and the plate brims
with fall avors. Serves 4

2 Tbs. butter
1 medium shallot,
minced ( cup)
cup white or red wine
cup dried cranberries
1 cup roasted chestnuts,
peeled and chopped
1 Tbs. maple syrup
2 cups wild rice, cooked
2 tsp. fresh flat-leaf
parsley, chopped
Kosher salt and freshly
ground black pepper
4 turkey breast steaks
(about 1 lb.)
2 Tbs. olive oil

Melt the butter in a saucepan over

medium heat. Add the shallot and cook,
stirring occasionally, until softened, about
3 minutes. Add the wine and cranber-
ries, and cook until the wine is mostly
absorbed. Add the chestnuts and maple
syrup, and cook until lightly glazed. Toss
with the wild rice and parsley; season with
salt and pepper.
Season the turkey steaks on both sides
P I N OT N O I R
with salt and pepper. Heat 1 Tbs. of the Situated in the heart of the warm, sunny
oil in a 12-inch skillet over medium-high Central Coast of California, Edna Valley
heat until very hot. Add as many steaks Vineyard is renowned for coaxing layered
as will comfortably fit in a single layer and and complex flavors from their grapes.
cook until browned on both sides, and Their Pinot Noir is beloved for tasting rich
just cooked through, about 2 minutes per in style, being light on the palate, and hav-
side. Transfer to a plate and tent with foil ing a luscious, silky mouthfeel. Rose petal,
to keep warm. Repeat with the remaining black cherry, and blackberry pie are the
cutlets, adding the remaining 1 Tbs. oil if prominent flavors. The wines bright acid-
needed. Divide the turkey steaks and rice ity and long finish make it a perfect pairing
among four plates, and serve. for a wide range of foods, including the
harvest dinner here. Cheers!
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 17
 contributors

Maura Kilpatrick (Get Rolling, Martha Holmberg (Make Fennel a

p. 80) earned her graduate certificate
in baking at California Culinary
Academy and has worked with many
of Bostons top chefs. She and chef Ana Sortun developed the
concept for the restaurant Oleana, followed by Sofra Bakery &
Cafe. Kilpatrick has earned several nominations from the James
Beard Foundation for outstanding pastry chef and the title of
best pastry chef from Boston magazine. Along with Ana Sortun,
she is co-writer of the cookbook Soframiz.
/TbS` BVO\YaUWdW\U RW\\S` 7 ZWYS b] take a walk!
;g U]b] W\U`SRWS\b Wa all kinds of seasonal fruit.
;g TOd]`WbS Q]]YP]]Y changes all the time. I love reading the
intros and stories in cookbooks. Im currently rereading Momo-
fuku Milk Bar and a book on Greek baking.
Favorite, p. 64) is a food writer based
in Portland, Oregon. Shes become
especially keen on vegetable cookery
after co-writing Six Seasons: A New Way with Vegetables with chef
Joshua McFadden. A former editor of Fine Cooking, Martha is
also the current CEO of the International Association of Culi-
nary Professionals (IACP).
;g ZObSab YWbQVS\ ^c`QVOaS eOa an extravagantly expen-
sive, big, gorgeous, muscular aluminum colander. Good for drain-
ing, but its also like a sculpture on my shelf.
7 Z]dS >]`bZO\R T]` Wba gardens. Every house, sidewalk strip,
and highway embankment is full of blooms.
BVS bV`SS ^S]^ZS 7R []ab ZWYS b] Q]]Y RW\\S` T]` O`S
chef Fernand Chambrette, one of my teachers at cooking school
in Paris, so I could show him that I actually can cook well now;
Barack and Michelle Obama (can they count as one person?),
because they seem like the most delightful dinner-party guests;
and the author Evelyn Waugh, because hed keep us all laughing.

Christine Burns Rudalevige

(Make It Tonight, p. 40) is a food
writer and recipe developer who lives in
Brunswick, Maine, with her husband,
two teenage children, and a much-loved Pastry chef and recipe developer
hound-mix mutt named Theodore Roo- Karen DeMasco (Streusel, p. 86)
sevelt Rudalevige. Her first book, Green Plate Special, recently lives in Brooklyn, New York, with her
received the 2017 Boston Readable Feast Socially Conscious two daughters. She was voted outstand-

book award.
;g TOd]`WbS BVO\YaUWdW\U aWRS RWaV Wa sausage and thyme
stuffing baked in the bird.
7 Y\]e TOZZ Wa VS`S eVS\ 7 eO\b b] [OYS lots of homemade
pizza to help warm the kitchen in my old house.
BVS YWbQVS\ b]]Z 7 QO\b ZWdS eWbV]cb Wa my melon baller.
There are a million jobs it can handlelike removing cores for
picture-perfect poached fall pears, for example.
Photographs, clockwise from top left: Kristin Tieg Photography, Gia Goodrich, Mark Jordan, Matthea Daughtry
ing pastry chef in 2005 by the James
Beard Foundation.
BVS bV`SS bVW\Ua OZeOga W\ [g T`WRUS O`S homemade
cold-brew coffee, Ruby Red grapefruit seltzer, and Califia
almond milk.
4]` BVO\YaUWdW\U RSaaS`b 7 [cab VOdS a maple-
bourbon pumpkin pie made with a lard crust and topped with
whipped cream.
BVS T]]R b`S\R 7 eWaV e]cZR RWaO^^SO` Wa made-for-
Instagram food that is grossly over the top.

WIN SAIL AWAYeWbV1SZSP`Wbg1`cWaSa

/4@33 3\bS`b]eW\O%ROg1O`WPPSO\dOQObW]\T]`be]T`][
CELEBRIT Y 1SZSP`Wbg1`cWaSa Unwind aboard the Celebrity Equinox in
CRUISE! ocean view accommodations and enjoy the sunny beaches, warm
DETAILS ocean breezes, turquoise waters, and award-winning service.
HERE Visit 4W\S1]]YW\UQ][eW\OQ`cWaS to enter.

18 47<31==97<5=1B<=D %
 Editorial Director Kathy Kingsley
Art Director
Senior Editor
Teresa Fernandes
Joanne Smart
Love Your Knives
Food Editor Lisa Lahey with the sharpener professionals trust!
Senior Copy/ Chris Hoelck
Production Editor
Staff Photographer Scott Phillips
Senior Food Ronne Day
Editor/Stylist
Food Editor/ Diana Andrews
Test Kitchen Manager
Art/Production Tinsley Morrison
Coordinator
Test Kitchen Assistants Joan Velush
William Stewart

Special Projects
Senior Special Sarah Opdahl
Projects Editor
Associate Art Director Brittany Carlson

FineCooking.com
Watch Video
Senior Web Producer Sarah Breckenridge
Video Director Colin Russell

Editors at Large Jennifer Armentrout

Susie Middleton
Contributing Editors Abigail Johnson Dodge
Rebecca Freedman
Jill Silverman Hough (drinks)
Enjoy superbly sharp edges
Nanette Maxim on Euro/American, Asian style and serrated knives
Tony Rosenfeld
No guesswork! Easy to use with precision knife guides for stronger, longer-lasting edges.
Molly Stevens
Apply superior, awless edges with 100% diamond abrasives and advanced polishing disks.
To contact us: Fine Cooking
The Taunton Press EdgeCraft (800)342-3255 chefschoice.com EdgeCraft 2017, Avondale, PA 19311
63 South Main St.
PO Box 5506
Newtown, CT 06470-5506

Email: fc@taunton.com
Visit: finecooking.com
Submit an article proposal: Write to Fine Cooking
at the address above or Call: 800-309-0744 or Fax:
203-426-3434 Email: fc@taunton.com
Subscribe/place an order:
Visit finecooking.com/fcorder or call: 866-288-4208
9am-9pm ET Mon-Fri and 9am-7pm ET Sat
Find out about Fine Cooking products:
Visit finecooking.com/products
Get help with online member services:
Visit finecooking.com/customerservice
Contact Fine Cooking customer service:
Email us at customerservice@finecooking.com
Fine Cooking: (ISSN: 1072-5121) is published six
times a year by The Taunton Press, Inc., Newtown, CT
06470-5506. Telephone: 203-426-8171.
Periodicals postage paid at Newtown, CT 06470 and
at additional mailing offices. GST paid registration
#123210981.
Subscription Rates: U.S., $29.95 for one year, $49.95
for two years, $69.95 for three years. Canada, $31.95
for one year, $53.95 for two years, $75.95 for three
years (GST included, payable in U.S. funds). Outside
the U.S./Canada: $42 for one year, $72 for two years,
$102 for three years (payable in U.S. funds). Single
copy U.S., $6.95. Single copy Canada, $7.95.
Postmaster: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM
707.4.12.5); NONPOSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: La Baleine Sea Salts. Every
Send address corrections to Fine Cooking, PO Box variety you need for all your
37610, Boone, IA 50037-0610. holiday cooking and baking recipes.
Canada Post: Return undeliverable Canadian Theyre naturally crystallized by
addresses to Fine Cooking, c/o Worldwide Mailers, sun and sea breezes in our exclusive
Inc., 2835 Kew Drive, Windsor, ON N8T 3B7. Mediterranean preserve.

Printed in the USA

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 19
 Publisher John Boland
Comfort that 203-304-3769
jboland@finecooking.com

looks as good Director

Business Development,
Alina Light
203-304-3501

as it feels. Partnership Marketing

Midwest
alight@finecooking.com
Susan Welter
Account Director 203-304-3894
swelter@finecooking.com
Northeast Erin Rijo
Account Director 203-304-3529
erijo@finecooking.com
West Coast Oak Media Group
Advertising Sales 323-493-2754
Cynthia Lapporte
Cynthia@oakmedia
group.com

Integrated Robina Lewis

Indulge in the luxurious feel and deep-cushioned
support of GelPro Elite, the worlds most
comfortable oor mat. Featuring GelPros
exclusive Dual Comfort Core of patented gel
and energy-return foam, this stain-resistant
comfort mat is available in hundreds of designer
patterns and colors to complement any dcor.
1.866.435.6287
GelPro.com Made in the USA
with Imported Top Fabric
Marketing Director
Marketing Manager Bethany Sax
Member Audit
Bureau of Circulation
Single Copy Sales
To speak directly to a customer service professional:
Call 866-288-4208 9am-9pm ET Mon-Fri; 9am-7pm
ET Sat
Select styles at
Sell Fine Cooking in your store: Call us toll-free at
866-452-5179, or email us at tradecs@taunton.com
Advertise in Fine Cooking: Call 800-309-8940, or
email us at fcads@taunton.com
Mailing list: We make a portion of our mailing list
available to reputable firms. If you would prefer
that we not include your name, please visit:
finecooking.com/privacy or call 866-288-4208
9am-9pm ET Mon-Fri; 9am-7pm ET Sat.
The Taunton guarantee: If at any time youre not
completely satisfied with Fine Cooking, you can can-
cel your subscription and receive a full and immediate
refund of the entire subscription price. No questions
asked.

CLICK N CURL
PEELER SPIRALIZER

Our spiralizers click easily onto our classic Swiss peelers to turn
veggies into noodles, ribbons and rosettes. Copyright 2017 by The Taunton Press, Inc. No
The four-piece set includes a straight peeler for ribbons and rosettes, reproduction without permission of The Taunton
a julienne peeler for noodles, and two interchangeable spiral cones. Press, Inc.
Get 15% off this item at www.kuhnrikon.com. Use Code FINEFALL Independent publishers since 1975
Founders, Paul & Jan Roman

President & CEO Dan McCarthy

CFO Mark Fernberg
CTO Brian Magnotta
SVP, Consumer Marketing Paula Backer
VP, Controller Robert Caldaroni
VP, Human Resources Carol Marotti

SVP, Fine Cooking John Boland

SVP, Home & Renee Jordan

Construction

Publishers of magazines, books, videos, and online

4W\SE]]Re]`YW\U4W\S6][SPcWZRW\U
BV`SORa4W\S5O`RS\W\U4W\S1]]YW\U
taunton.com
WWW.KUHNRIKON.COM

20 47<31==97<5=1B<=D 2017
 F O L LOW F I N E C O O K I N G

#necooking
You talk (or email, post, or pin), and we listen! Heres what some of you are
saying and cooking. Tag #finecooking in your social media posts if youd like to see
your words or pictures on this page in upcoming issues.

Roasting
Instagram Food blogs Favorite
recipes & tips
thefullplatelife: Seared Scallops l
essentia n,
eWbV1Wb`ca?cW\]O6S`PaO\R for chicke ies
beef, vegg
/Z[]\Ra/cUcabAS^bS[PS` & more
2016): This recipe from Fine Cook-
ing magazine comes together
_cWQYZgO\R[OYSaOZ]dSZgac[
mer dinner. Lightly steamed chard
rounds out the meal.

ing
Fine Cook
utors of
d contrib
Editors an

@sweetlyhili: When life gives you Meyer TauntonStore.com

ZS[]\a[OYS:S[]\0O`a4SP`cO`g
March 2002).
@FineCooking: We couldnt agree more.

Bella Copper
FineCooking.com
Cast_IronMan:0]c`P]\;OQS`ObSR
Ab]\S4`cWb8c\S8cZg %(3fQSZ
lent! I dont like alcohol flavor in my
desserts so I was concerned, but
it was amazing how after one hour,
the alcohol flavor was gone and
what was left was a complex malty
sweetness.
I cant wait to
try cherries!

@t_kevin_reno: Menu from Mumbai: Twitter

5ZOhSRA^WQS@cPPSRA^O`S`WPa1`Wa^
@]OabSR>]bOb]ESRUSa5`SS\0SO\ @Monas_Table:;ORSbVS1O``]b Solid Copper Heat Diffusers
AOZOReWbV1]`WO\RS`=WZO\R0OYSR AZOeT]`[g;]`]QQO\1VWQYS\0c`U
S`a/cUcabAS^bS[PS` "PcbWb
and Defroster Plates
>SOQVSaeWbV1O`RO[][<cb1`c[PZS
O\R1`SO[ may be all gone before the burgers Equalized Heating No hot spots
@FineCooking: Awesome job! are grilled!
They really work! because copper
conducts heat better.
Excellent as an oven plate!
Digital Editions Fine Cookings tablet editionsavail- Made in USA since 2002
able for iPad, Windows, and Android devicesare the same
gorgeous issues you love in digital format. Download the
805 218 3241
app at FineCooking.com/app. Access is free with your print
subscription.
www.BellaCopper.com

Photographs, clockwise from top left: Sweetlyhili; Donna Whitlock; Monas Table; t_kevin_reno 4 7 < 3 1 = = 9 7 < 5 1 = ; 21
 MENUS

Family
Gathering
Wild Mushroom Soup with
Sherry & Thyme
FineCooking.com

Shaved Fennel Salad with Oranges,

Black Olives, and Pistachios Oktoberfest
page 69
Parsnip, Potato, and
Turkey and Ricotta Stuffed Shells Scallion Pancakes
page 34 FineCooking.com

Streusel Coffee Cake Sausages with Red Cabbage

Saturday Night page 91 and Apples
with Friends page 40
To drink: Barbera
Mussels with Fennel Raspberry Jam Bars
page 90
and Fregola
page 65
To drink: Oktoberfest beer or Riesling
Potato and Leek Galette
with Rosemary
and Sea-Salt Crust
page 63

Pear and Ginger Crisp

page 90
Kid-Friendly Meal
To drink: Viognier
Shaved Cucumber Salad
page 41

Turkey and Spinach Hand Pies

page 36

Chocolate Chip
Oatmeal Streusel Cookies
Autumn Dinner page 92

Figs with Ricotta, Pistachios, To drink: Sparkling cider

and Honey (mixed with sparkling wine
FineCooking.com for the grown-ups)

Pork Chops Milanese

page 74

Vanilla Ice Cream Streusel Sundaes

with Candied Cherries
page 93

To drink: Pinot Grigio or

crisp Chardonnay

22 47<31==97<5=1B<=D % Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day

 TASTE
FOR
TRAVEL
If youre a cook, exploring
and discovering new
avors, ingredienWs, and
coPEinaWions is always
parW of WKe appeal of
Wraveling :KeWKer iWs
Wrying a regional sK or
sourcing locally-grown
produce, culinary creaWiviWy
coPes in Pany forPs
+ere, cKefs froP 0oveaEle
)easW and &eleEriWy &ruises
Little Gem Salad sKare WKeir inspiraWion for
with Prosciutto, vacaWion cooking
Pete Evans (next page)

*ood cooking always sWarWs wiWK Wop TualiWy

ingredienWs )resK sK rigKW ouW of WKe waWer, fruiW
picked froP WKe Wree WKaWs sWill warP froP WKe sun
or vegeWaEles WKaW were KarvesWed WKis Porning wiWK
soil sWill on WKeP IWs EeauWiful ingredienWs like WKese
WKaW inspire Py cooking

Cornelius Gallagher | Associate VP, Food & Beverage

Celebrity Cruises
LITTLE GEM SALAD
WITH PROSCIUTTO
If Little Gem lettuce is unavailable,
bright green, crisp hearts of
romaine or baby romaine are a
ne substitution. Serves 6 to 
  DQFKRYLHVQHO\
chopped
1 small clove garlic,
grated
Finely grated zest and
juice of 1 lemon
1 Tbs. whole-grain
mustard
2 tsp. honey
Sea salt and freshly
ground black pepper
cup extra-virgin
olive oil
1
/3 cup thinly sliced
fresh chives
4 heads Little Gem
lettuce, trimmed and
quartered
3 oz. thinly sliced
Prosciutto di Parma, cut
in half lengthwise
In a small bowl, whisk the
anchovies, garlic, lemon zest
and juice, mustard, honey, tsp.
salt, and tsp. pepper. Drizzle in
the oil, whisking until emulsied.
Gently stir in the chives.
Arrange the lettuce on a
platter, drizzle with most of
the vinaigrette, top with the
prosciutto, drizzle with the
BOURBON MOJITO
remaining vinaigrette, and serve.
By switching up traditional rum for bourbon,
Chef Lamas gives the Cuban cocktail a certain
spiciness. If your rocks glasses are fragile,
muddle the mint and sugar in a mortar or
other more-sturdy vessel, then transfer it to
the glass. Yields 1 cocktail

4 large fresh mint leaves plus

Pete Evans
Chef/Host Moveable Feast
with Fine Cooking
This quick, tasty salad is
the perfect light lunch to
have when you come in
from a day at the beach
surng.
more for garnish
Anthony Lamas
2 Tbs. fresh lime juice
Chef/Seviche/Owner,
1 Tbs. granulated sugar Louisville, Kentucky
1 oz. bourbon Theres nothing more
Soda water refreshing than a
Bourbon Mojito on
Lime wedge for garnish
a hot summer day...a
In a rocks glass, muddle the mint, lime juice,
little Latin America
and sugar.
meets the Bluegrass
Fill the glass with ice and add the bourbon. state!
Top off with the soda water. Stir to combine
and garnish with mint and the lime wedge.

SA LMON WIT H TOM ATO-A NCHOV Y V IN A IG RE T T E
This sure-to-impress grilled salmon dish is quick and delicious. Perfect for warm nights.
Serves 6
2 large ripe beefsteak
tomatoes (about 13 oz.
each), coarsely chopped
  D
 QFKRY\OOHWVQHO\FKRSSHG
cup coarsely chopped
Kalamata olives
  O DUJHFORYHJDUOLFQHO\FKRSSHG
1 Tbs. capers, coarsely chopped
cup lightly packed fresh parsley
leaves, coarsely chopped
1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
cup extra-virgin olive oil; more
for grilling the salmon
Kosher salt and freshly ground
black pepper
Travis Haugen
Chef Southside Bistro,
Anchorage, Alaska
When you have fresh
wild salmon it doesnt
require more than a
simple topping to be
delicious.
6 6-oz. pieces skin-on
VDOPRQOOHWV
Heat a gas or charcoal grill to medium high
(400F to 475F).
In a large bowl, combine the tomatoes,
anchovies, olives, garlic, capers, parsley,
lemon juice, and oil. Season to taste
with salt and pepper. Set aside.
Brush the salmon with oil, season
generously with salt and pepper, and
transfer to the grill. Cook until medium
rare, 3 to 4 minutes per side.
Serve with the tomato-anchovy vinaigrette.
The sommelier-selected, Our team of certied sommeliers scour the worlds best
vineyards to hand select a wine collection unlike any other at
sea. The result is a selection that has swept the Wine Spectator
multi-million-dollar, Restaurant Awards ve years in a row, racking up 48 awards
more than any other cruise line. Because dishes crafted by our
oating wine collection Michelin-starred chef should be paired with nothing less.

you deserve. We spare no expense to create the perfect vacation. Why would you?

1-800-CELEBRITY | celebritycruises.com | Call your travel agent

2017 Celebrity Cruises. Ships' registry: Malta and Ecuador.

 AT THE MARKET

What were cooking now

Fine Cooking editors and a reader share
some delicious ideas for in-season ingredients.

Guava Ginger Flatbread with

Mojito
Pure boiled, strained guava,
then mix with a little freshly
grated ginger and honey. In a
cocktail shaker, muddle some
fresh mint. Add some of the
pure, white rum, and ice;
shake and serve.
William Stewart
Chanterelle Puff
Pastry Bites
Saut sliced chanterelles in
butter. Add a little white wine
and heavy cream, then cook
until thickened. Season to taste
with salt, pepper, and a little
white balsamic vinegar. Spoon
the mixture into puff pastry
shells and bake. Sprinkle with
chopped tarragon and serve.
Ronne Day
Mustard Greens
Strip the leaves from the stems
of mustard greens, and cut
into thin ribbons. Toss with
olive oil, a squeeze of orange
juice, chopped jarred sweet red
pepper, granulated garlic, salt,
and pepper. Grill flatbread until
light grill marks appear. Top
the bread with the greens and
toasted pine nuts.
Diana Andrews
Smoky Parsnip Chips
Toss thinly sliced parsnips
with vegetable oil and roast
in a 350F oven, flipping once,
until crisp and lightly browned.
Meanwhile, mix equal parts
kosher salt and smoked paprika.
Sprinkle over the chips and
serve.
Joanne Smart

Stir-Fried Pear Grilled Cheese

Watercress
Heat toasted sesame oil in a
large skillet. Add sliced garlic
and cook, stirring, until fragrant.
Add watercress, a splash of
soy sauce, and a little stock or
water. Cook, stirring, until the
watercress is wilted.
Lisa Lahey
Sandwich
Using hearty bread, make a
sandwich of mild blue cheese
and sliced pears. Butter both
sides, then toast on a griddle
until browned and crisp.
Chris Hoelck

ONE READERS SEASONAL SPECIALTY

Honey-Butter Sweet Potatoes with Toasted Pecans

Melt butter and honey together. Arrange peeled and quartered sweet potatoes on a rimmed
baking sheet and drizzle with half of the butter mixture, then season with salt and coarsely
ground black pepper. Roast for about 30minutes, until the butter mixture is absorbed. Flip,
drizzle with remaining butter mixture, and gently toss. Season with more pepper and top with
chopped pecans. Roast until tender. Serve with any sauce from the pan, and garnish with
a little freshly grated nutmeg. Emilee McCaffrey, Bismarck, North Dakota

Photographs by Scott Phillips, except bottom left courtesy of Emilee McCaffrey F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 27

 G R E AT F I N D S

Go With the Grain

Wood is the material of the moment, bringing durability
and warmth to the kitchen and table.
BY REBECCA FREEDMAN

1 Stand strong
Show off your pies, cakes, and tarts with this hand-
some acacia wood cake stand. $64; dejumo.com.
2

2 Get the scoop

Bay-area designer Melanie Abrantes fashions
her work from cork, wood, and sometimes both.
BOYST]`SfO[^ZSVS`Q]`YO\ReOZ\cbQ]TTSS 1
canister, which you can use for coffee storage,
of course, but really for any dry goods. We espe-
cially love that the removable scoop doubles as
the lids handle. $125; melanieabrantes.com.
3
3 Ahead of the carve
AVc\a\Se W\QVV]ZZ]eU`]c\R9O\a]P`WaYSb
knife isnt just for brisket; its meant for any large
QcbW\QZcRW\Ug]c`V]ZWROgVO[BVSZ]\U\O``]e
blade slices these roasts in a single pass, keeping
XcWQSaW\aWRSBVSW\QZcRSRe]]RS\aVSObV^`]
tects the blade. $255; shun.kaiusaldt.com.

4 Super bowls
When its time to make salad, well be reaching for
Farmhouse Potterys crafted wooden bowls and
servers; their rustic look and substantial feel trans-
port us straight to the country. Hand-carved from 7
New England ash and finished in the companys
DS`[]\babcRW]bVSP]eZaQ][SW\TWdSaWhSaT`][
%b]%W\QVSaBowls, $48 to $295; servers,
$48; farmhousepottery.com.

5 Stacked up
Apples, pears, and all those other ripe fruits will
need a landing place in your kitchen this fall; look
no further than these sleek pine and powder-
coated steel platform bowls, which can be used
on their own or stacked for a tiered effect. $32.50
each; supergoodthing.com.
6
6 Hanging around 4
Edgewood Mades gorgeous Leicester boards
are designed to hang on a hook so that they
e]\bbOYSc^Sfb`OQ]c\bS`a^OQSBVSg`SOdOWZ
OPZSW\bV`SSaWhSaO\RbV`SST]]RaOTSTW\WaVSa
(black, walnut, and cherry). Boards, $85 to
$135; hook, $45; edgewoodmade.com.

7 Just right
Handcrafted in Colorado, these stylish walnut and
ceramic tumblers are great for both hot and cold
drinks; the wood acts as an insulator, keeping
beverages at their intended temperature.
$36 each; davidrasmussendesign.com. 5
continued on p. 30

28 47<31==97<5=1B<=D % Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day

 OUR
AGING
ROOMS
At BelGioioso, cheesemaking is an art.
Our American Grana, an 18-month Extra
Aged Parmesan, takes patience to produce.
We deliberately choose not to cut corners
and aging rooms are our commitment to
traditional cheesemaking methods. By
aging on natural wooden shelves, our
Master Cheesemakers follow the proper
steps to ensure what is best for this cheese.

Available in the specialty cheese

section in wedges and shredded cups.

Aging Room, BelGioioso Pulaski Plant, WI December 2016 belgioioso.com

 G R E AT F I N D S

More kitchen products

on our radar 9

8 Mash in a flash
While most potato ricers call for a downward
squeezing motion, Joseph Josephs Helix ergo-
nomic food presss handles move horizontally,
requiring less force to make your mashed
potatoes. $20; josephjoseph.com.
10
9 Cheers to this
If youre a cocktail aficionado without much
space for a collection of bar tools (or if you just
need a handy one to tote along on vacation), 13
;WQ`]^ZO\Sa%W\CZbW[ObS0O`B]]Z[OgPS
just the thing. It impressed us with its ability to
tackle a range of tasks, from peeling and mud-
dling to stirring, straining, and more. $16.95;
amazon.com.

10 Rest up
Surprisingly, its not easy to find a good-looking
spoon rest; so many on the market are just,
well, kitschy. So when we recently came upon
>WUS]\B]S1S`O[WQacbWZWbga^]]\`SabaWbeOa
love at first sight. Available in a range of tranquil
hues, theyre pretty and functional. $24;
pigeontoeceramics.com.

11 Ready to wear
7\a^W`SRPgBcaQO\PcbQVS`aO^`]\a
these heavy-duty cotton aprons are cus-
tomizable, since their adjustable, detachable
braces, made of washable paper, are sold
separately. Choose from an array of colors,
and mix and match as you please. Apron,
$84; paper braces, $20 to $30; shopuash 12
mamausa.com.
11
12 Pantry pesto
A combination of oils, including walnut, gets
infused with garlic and basil to produce La
B]c`O\USZZSaTZOd]`TcZ\Se^Sab]]WZ7bORRaO
fresh herbal and nutty finish to anything youre
cooking; try whisking it into a vinaigrette, brush-
ing it on crostini, or drizzling it over tomato soup.
$6.99 for 250 ml; latourangelle.com.

13 Open sesame
0gZOe0]c`P]\RWabWZZS`WSaQO\caSbVSW`
oak barrels only once to age bourbon, so its
T]`bcWb]cabVOb9S\bcQYgPOaSR0]c`P]\
0O``SZ4]]RaUWdSabVSaSPO``SZaOaSQ]\R
life: using the wood to smoke spices and
aSOa]\W\UaBVSQ][^O\gbc`\a]cbOdO`WSbg
of tasty smoked spices and seasonings, but
we were particularly impressed with their
boldly flavored smoked sesame seeds; theyd
be delicious sprinkled over a salad or used as
a coating for fish, meat, or poultry. $6 for a
2.25-oz. tin; bourbonbarrelfoods.com.

30 47<31==97<5=1B<=D %
 Handcrafted
in Japan

When the food youre cutting is tough on the outside,

but tender on the inside, thats when serrations shine.
Shuns razor-sharp 16 serrations slice through resilient
exteriors without squashing delicate interiors. From
its proprietary VG-MAX cutting core and beautiful
Damascus cladding to its traditional-style handle,
it takes over 100 handcrafted steps to make this
Classic
6" Serrated Utility extraordinaryand rather brilliantknife.

shuncutlery.com @shuncutlery

Delicious dishes created with the home cook in mind
Dining In
Highly Cookable Recipes
By Alison Roman (Clarkson Potter; $30)
Recently, I followed a suggestion from Twitter:
Pick up the nearest book to you, turn to page
45. The first sentence explains your love life. I
grabbed Alison Romans debut cookbook and
found this: Asparagus and I have a very com-
plicated relationship. I dont know what that
sentence says about my love life, but it definitely
encapsulates Romans wonderfully quirky voice
as she writes about how to cook unfussy but
really tasty dishes at home. The former Bon
Apptit senior editor has not lost her hip cred
since leaving the magazine. Her recipes feature
plenty of it ingredients, like kimchi, pistachios,
and zaatar, but they all make delicious, crave-
worthy sense. To persuade readers to try her
Sour Cream Flatbread, she shows off her food-
world knowledge while keeping it real: Making
your own flatbread doesnt need to be an insane
experience, she writes. This is not the Tartine
Cookbook. The gorgeous photo of the bread
topped with ricotta and her Oil-Roasted Mush-
rooms almost makes such convincing
unnecessary, however. Like all of the photos
in the book, it looks both amazing yet doable.
Indeed, flipping through Dining In, I wanted to
read every word and make every dish; theres
not too many cookbooks I can say that about.
Dont miss: Avocados with Everything. The
bagel-like topping is great, but its her take-
down of avocado toast that seals the deal.
32 47<31==97<5=1B<=D %
B O O K S T H AT C O O K
The Reading List
The Home Cook
Recipes to Know by Heart
By Alex Guarnaschelli (Clarkson Potter; $35)
In her debut cookbook, Alex Guarnaschelli jokes
that she became a chef just to keep up with her
family. (Her mother is famed cookbook editor
Maria Guarnaschelli, and apparently her dad was
no slouch in the kitchen, either.) Trained at La
Varenne Culinary School in France, she worked at
Guy Savoy in Paris and at an American Place and
Daniel in New York City. Now a familiar presence
on TV cooking shows as well as mom of a 9-year-
old daughter, Guarnaschelli knows full well what
its like to cook at home where theres no one but
you prepping your ingredients or washing your
pots. To that end, her recipes are very accessi-
blea term chefs hate but home cooks love. Her
roast chicken may be spatchcocked (back bone
removed and flattened), but the ingredient list is
just chicken and salt. Indeed, part of whats so
enjoyable about her book is seeing so many
recipes that fit, easily and with white space, on a
single page. Though straightforward, the recipes,
such as Orecchiette with Bacon, Lemon, and
Cream, are sophisticated and appealing. Unlike
in many chef-written books, desserts get a lot of
attention. Guarnaschelli loves to bakeshe calls
cake her favorite food groupand it shows, much
to the readers benefit.
A great idea: Dark Chocolate Mayonnaise
Layer Cake. The not-so-secret ingredient
keeps the cake super moist.
BY JOANNE SMART
Myers + Chang at Home
Recipes from the Beloved Boston Eatery
By Joanne Chang with Karen Akunowicz
DeMent (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt; $32)
Not only is Myers + Chang a beloved Boston
eatery, but Joanne Chang is also a beloved
contributor to Fine Cooking. Though we mostly
feature her mad baking skills (her Flour baker-
ies are another Boston fave), weve also
enjoyed the bold flavors featured at the Asian-
inspired restaurant she opened 10years ago
with her husband, Christopher Myers. (You can
find their signature Indonesian Fried Chicken
on FineCooking.com.) Like that recipe, most
of the recipes in the book contain multiple
components, and ingredients and techniques
that may not be familiar. But dont let that
scare you. For one thing, the authors include
lots of information on ingredients and equip-
ment, as well as tutorials on how to velvet,
shape dumplings, and even use chopsticks.
More important, the vibrant flavors and
exciting textures that result from recipes like
Wok-Roasted Lemongrass Mussels with Garlic
Toast, Smashed Fingerling Potatoes with Thai
Chili Jam, or Korean Braised Short Rib Tacos
are worth every second of the time invested in
making them.
Super simple yet scrumptious: Grilled Corn
with Sriracha Butter. The hot sauce counters
smoky-sweet kernels, but its the scallion fin-
ish that makes this easy dish sing.
Photographs by Scott Phillips
This year, focus your feast on something everyone around the table can enjoy
herbivores, carnivores, and even vegan and gluten-free guests.
Fill your glasses with Titos!
For recipes and more visit titosvodka.com
 3 WAYS WITH...
Leftover Turkey
Transform extra Thanksgiving turkey into a glorious pasta,
a satisfying soup, or a terrific turnover.
BY DIANA ANDREWS
Cooked-turkey talk
Use white, dark, or a mix of
white and dark for these
recipes.
Be thorough when picking
the turkey carcass of meat.
34 47<31==97<5=1B<=D %
turkey and ricotta stuffed shells
This take on classic stuffed shells
features diced turkey in place
of ground meat. Pine nuts, cur-
rants, and arugula add a crunchy-
sweet-peppery burst in every bite.
Serves 6 to 8
Cooking spray or olive oil
Kosher salt
12 oz. jumbo pasta shells
1 lb. 12oz. ricotta (3cups)
12 oz. mozzarella, coarsely grated
(3 cups)
cup pine nuts, toasted
cup plus 2Tbs. finely chopped
arugula
cup plus 2Tbs. finely grated
Parmigiano-Reggiano or Grana
Padano
cup dried currants
4 medium cloves garlic, minced
1 large egg
tsp. crushed red pepper flakes;
more to taste
2 cups diced (inch) cooked turkey
4 cups homemade or store-bought
marinara
Lightly oil a large rimmed baking sheet.
Bring a large pot of well-salted water
to a boil, and cook the shells according
to package directions until al dente.
Drain and rinse with cold water until
Q]]ZB`O\aTS`bVSaVSZZab]bVSPOYW\U
sheet in a single layer, and set aside.
Position a rack in the center of the
Dont forget to turn the bird  If your turkey was brined
over, too. or is kosher, the meat will
already be quite salty. Go
Securely wrap and refriger- easy when adding salt to
ate leftover turkey; it will dishes using leftovers.
keep up to four days.
Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day
]dS\O\RVSObb]!%#4
7\OZO`USP]eZ[WfbVS`WQ]bbOQc^
]TbVS[]hhO`SZZObVS^W\S\cbaQc^
]TbVSO`cUcZOQc^]TbVS>O`[WUWO\]
the currants, garlic, egg, pepper flakes,
O\Rba^aOZbc\bWZeSZZQ][PW\SR
Gently fold in the turkey. Season to
taste with salt and pepper flakes.
Lightly oil the bottom and sides of
O'f!W\QVPOYW\URWaVA^`SORQc^
of the marinara over the bottom of the
POYW\URWaV4WZZSOQVaVSZZeWbV BPa
of the filling (you will not use all of the
shells), and transfer to the baking dish,
arranging as many shells, open side
up, in a single layer as comfortably fit.
A^`SORQc^a]TbVSaOcQSSdS\Zg
over the shells. Add the remaining filled
shells on top, nestling them into any
UO^aA^`SORQc^]TbVSaOcQS]dS`
bVSaSaVSZZaB]^eWbV Qc^a]TbVS
remaining mozzarella and the remain-
W\U BPa>O`[WUWO\]
Lightly oil one side of a piece of foil
large enough to cover the dish. Cover
the shells with the oiled side of the foil,
and bake until the cheese melts and the
aOcQSWaPcPPZW\UOP]cb!#[W\cbSa
Remove the foil, turn the oven to broil,
and broil until the cheese begins to
P`]e\!b]"[W\cbSa1]]ZT]`[W\
utes, and garnish with the remaining
BPa]TO`cUcZO6SObbVS`S[OW\W\U
sauce, and pass at the table.
Any recipe calling for
leftover turkey would also
work well with chicken. Or
use thick-cut turkey breast
from the deli.
 flour
1/3cup namon
le ts p . g round cin
app 1/2
LE Pine nutmeg
c a n (2 0 oz.) DO d 1 /4 ts p . ground
1 draine in. pie
Chunks, d , c o re d, sliced y fo r tw o crust 9
, peele Pastr argarine
rt apples lemon tter or m
2large ta ice fr o m 1 2 tb s p . b u
eel and ju on juice.
Grated p l a n d 1 tbsp. lem
pe e
sugar p. lemon mixed.
1/4cup , a p p le s, 1-1/2 ts until well
e a p p le to fr u it ch wide
in e d ra ined pin n u tm e g. Stir in p a s tr y into 1-in
Comb and t remain
ing ch edges
.
innamon arine. Cu e top. Pin
e s u g a r, flour, c o r m a rg k e la tt ic
Combin tter ma
t with bu ver pie to
tr y shell. Do s c ri sscross o s longer.
Turn into
p a s
p . W eave s tr ip
; b a k e 50 minute
lattice to 350 F
strips for e heat to
m in u te s. Reduc
50F., 10 o to
Bake at 4 recipes g
r m o re delicious /recipes
Fo
hine.com
dolesuns

, TM & 2017 Dole Packaged Foods, LLC.

T H R E E WAYS W I T H . . .

turkey, escarole, and white bean soup with cheesy crouton

A cross between white bean soup and
French onion soup, a bowl makes a
hearty meal. Serves 4
Kosher salt
1 cup ditalini or similar small pasta
2 Tbs. olive oil; more as needed
1 large sweet onion, coarsely chopped
(about 1 13 cups)
5 medium cloves garlic, 4minced and
1halved lengthwise
1 qt. unsalted chicken stock
2 Tbs. Dijon mustard; more to taste
Freshly ground black pepper
1 large head escarole (about 1lb.), cut
crosswise into -inch-thick ribbons
(about 6packed cups)
2 cups diced ( inch) cooked turkey
1 15.5-oz. can cannellini beans, drained and
rinsed
tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
1 baguette
8 slices Swiss cheese
Fresh lemon juice
2 tsp. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Bring a medium pot of well-salted water to a Divide the soup among four bowls and sea-
boil, and cook the pasta according to package son to taste with lemon juice. Float a crouton
directions until al dente. Drain and rinse under on top, sprinkle with the parsley, and serve.
cold water until cool.
Heat the oil in a 4- to 5-quart Dutch oven or
other heavy-duty pot over medium heat. Add
the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until
a]TbO\RXcabPSUW\\W\Ub]P`]e\OP]cb%[W\
utes. Add the minced garlic and cook, stirring,
c\bWZT`OU`O\bOP]cb!aSQ]\Ra
Add the stock, bring to a boil over high heat,
then reduce to a simmer. Add the mustard,
ba^aOZbO\Rba^^S^^S`O\RabW`b]
combine. Add the escarole in batches, waiting
until it begins to wilt before adding more. Stir
in the turkey, pasta, beans, and pepper flakes.
Season to taste with mustard, salt, and pep-
per. Cover and keep warm.
Position a rack 6 to 8 inches from the
broiler and heat the broiler on high. Cut four
-inch-thick slices of baguette on a sharp
diagonal. Brush lightly with olive oil, then rub
each slice with the garlic halves. Cover each
aZWQS]TP`SOReWbVbVSQVSSaS ^WSQSaSOQV
cutting the cheese to fit. Broil until the cheese
[SZbaO\RP`]e\aaZWUVbZgOP]cb [W\cbSa

turkey and spinach hand pies

These turnoverlike pastries make a 2 17-oz. boxes frozen puff pastry, thawed
nice lunch paired with a green salad. 1 10-oz. box frozen chopped spinach,
thawed, squeezed very dry, and coarsely
Or enjoy them for a casual weeknight chopped
dinner. Serves 6 6 oz. Monterey Jack, coarsely grated
(1cups)
cup mayonnaise
13 cup hazelnuts, toasted and coarsely
chopped
13 cup coarsely chopped roasted red pepper
3 medium cloves garlic, minced
1 Tbs. finely grated lemon zest
1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
Kosher salt
2 cups diced ( inch) cooked turkey
1 large egg
All-purpose flour
Toasted sesame seeds, for garnish
BVOebV`SSaVSSba]TbVS^cTT^Oab`gOQQ]`R
ing to package directions. Position a rack in
bVSQS\bS`]TbVS]dS\O\RVSObb]" #4:W\S
a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment.
In a large bowl, combine the spinach,
cheese, mayonnaise, hazelnuts, roasted red
pepper, garlic, lemon zest and juice, pepper
TZOYSaO\Rba^aOZb5S\bZgT]ZRW\bVSbc`YSg
and set aside. In a small bowl, beat the egg
eWbVBPaeObS`
On a lightly floured work surface, roll each
aVSSb]TR]cUVW\b]O\fW\QVa_cO`S1cb
each sheet in half into two rectangles. Mound
OP]cbQc^]TbVSbc`YSg[Wfbc`SW\bVS[WR
dle of one side of each rectangle. Brush the
edges of the pastry with the egg wash. Fold
the pastry over the filling, and seal by pressing
the edges with the tines of a fork dipped in
TZ]c`B`O\aTS`b]bVSPOYW\UaVSSbO\R`ST`WU
S`ObST]`#[W\cbSa0`caVbVSb]^aeWbVbVS
remaining egg wash and cut four slashes in a
crosshatch pattern on top. Sprinkle with the
sesame seeds, and bake until golden brown,
OP]cb #[W\cbSaAS`dSeO`[

36 47<31==97<5=1B<=D %
It tastes like you actually
know what youre doing.
Thanks to the outstanding quality of GOYA Black Beans, your recipes will always be exquisite,
even when youre improvising a bit. Because you can trust that each U.S. #1 Grade bean*
will be whole, plump and delicious from the rst bite to the last.

GOYA Black Beans, the perfect ingredient for Real-Life Chefs

Quinoa and Black Bean Chili

Serves 6 | Prep time: 20 min. | Total time: 40 min.

Ingredients
1 cup GOYA Organic Quinoa
2 tbsp. GOYA Extra Virgin Olive Oil, divided large red bell pepper, seeded and diced
1 large onion, chopped
1 tbsp. GOYA Minced Garlic
1 tbsp. chili powder
1 tbsp. GOYA Ground Cumin
1 tsp. GOYA Oregano Leaves
large green bell pepper, seeded and diced
1 tbsp. GOYA Chipotle Peppers
in Adobo Sauce, finely chopped
1 can (15.25 oz.) GOYA Whole Kernel
Golden Corn, drained and rinsed
Fresh cilantro, chopped
2017 Goya Foods, Inc.

1 can (8 oz.) GOYA Tomato Sauce

2 cans (15.5 oz. each) GOYA Black Beans,

drained and rinsed

For step-by-step preparation instructions, visit goya.com/chili

*As dened by the USDA, when Mother Nature permits.

M A K E I T TO N I G H T
Fresh and easy weeknight cooking

Sausage with
Red Cabbage and
Apples, p.40

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 39
M A K E I T TO N I G H T
SEASONAL EATS
sausages with red
cabbage and apples
Fully cooked sausages are a great choice
for speedy weeknight dinners. Pair them
with red cabbage braised in beer plus vin-
egar, cloves, and red currant jelly for your
own mini Oktoberfest. Serves 4
3 Tbs. olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
Kosher salt
head red cabbage, thinly sliced
(about 6cups)
1 large Granny Smith apple, peeled and
chopped
2 oz. (4Tbs.) unsalted butter,
cut into pieces
cup lager-style beer
cup red currant jelly
cup red wine vinegar
18 tsp. ground cloves
Freshly ground black pepper
4 bratwurst, knockwurst, or
other cooked sausage of your choice
Mustard, for serving (optional)
6SOb BPa]TbVS]WZW\OZO`USaYWZZSb]dS`[SRWc[
VSOb/RRbVS]\W]\O\RO^W\QV]TaOZbO\R
cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about
![W\cbSa/RRbVSQOPPOUSO\RO^^ZSO\R
cook, tossing occasionally, until softened, about
#[W\cbSaAbW`W\bVSPcbbS`PSS`XSZZgdW\SUO`
QZ]dSaba^aOZbO\ROQ]c^ZS]TU`W\Ra]T^S^-
^S`1]dS`O\RQ]]Yc\bWZbVSQOPPOUSWabS\RS`
OP]cb[W\cbSa !aSQ]\Ra/RRbVS^]`YO\RabW`T`gP`SOYW\U
;SO\eVWZSVSObbVS`S[OW\W\UBPa]WZW\
O[SRWc[aYWZZSb]dS`[SRWc[VSOb/RRbVS
sausages and cook, turning occasionally, until
P`]e\SRO\RVSObSRbV`]cUV$b]&[W\cbSa
AS`dSbVSQOPPOUSeWbVbVSaOcaOUSaO\Ra][S
mustard on the side, if you like. Laraine Perri
Pair With: LAGER As always, the beer
or wine in a recipe is a good candidate to
serve alongside it. This medium-weight
lager will have spice and even slight sweet-
ness to stand up to the similar flavors in
the food.
40 47<31==97<5=1B<=D %
pork, lemongrass,
and noodle stir-fry
While delicious on its own, this slightly
spicy Thai-style stir-fry pairs well with the
bright, crisp, and refreshing cucumber
salad at far right. You can also make this
dish with ground chicken or turkey.
Serves 4 to 6
cup soy sauce
3 Tbs. minced lemongrass (from
about 3stalks)
3 Tbs. grated or minced fresh ginger
2 Tbs. finely chopped Fresno chile
3 large cloves garlic, minced
1 Tbs. fresh lime juice; more to taste
1 lb. ground pork
6 oz. vermicelli rice noodles
2 Tbs. vegetable oil
1 cup unsalted chicken stock
2 tsp. granulated sugar
5 oz. baby kale, tough stems
removed (about 5cups)
3 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh mint
3 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh cilantro
In a small bowl, combine the soy sauce, lemon-
grass, ginger, chile, garlic, and lime juice.
In a medium bowl, combine the pork and half
]TbVSZS[]\U`Oaa[Wfbc`S:SbaWbT]`[W\cbSa
Prepare the noodles according to package
directions until tender. Drain, pat dry, transfer to
OZO`USP]eZO\Rb]aaeWbVBPa]TbVS]WZ
In a large skillet or wok, heat the remaining
BPa]WZ]dS`VWUVVSOb/RRbVS`S[OW\W\UZS[-
ongrass mixture and stir-fry until fragrant, about
it into small pieces, until cooked through and
P`]e\SRW\^ZOQSaOP]cb#[W\cbSa/RRbVS
chicken stock and sugar. Stir in the kale, and sim-
[S`c\bWZbVSYOZSeWZbab] [W\cbSaB`O\aTS`
to the noodle bowl, add the herbs, and toss.
ASOa]\b]bOabSeWbVZW[SXcWQSO\RaS`dS
Christine Burns Rudalevige
Pair With: OFF-DRY RIESLING Riesling
and Thai flavors are a match made in
heaven. The slight sweetness of the
wine balances the slight heat of the
dish, while the wines fresh, tropical
notes complement the lemongrass,
ginger, and mint.
 three speedy sides
shaved cucumber salad Serves 4 to 6
In a medium bowl, combine cup rice vinegar, 2Tbs. seeded
and minced Fresno chile, and 4tsp. granulated sugar. Trim
and peel 4medium cucumbers. With a vegetable peeler,
shave the cucumbers into the bowl in long, wide strips. Toss
and let sit briefly before serving with the stir-fry at left or with
seared steak or salmon. Christine Burns Rudalevige

pearl couscous with orange, cranberries,

and almonds Serves 4 to 6
In a medium bowl, whisk 1Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil, 1Tbs.
fresh orange juice, tsp. finely grated orange zest, tsp.
kosher salt, and a good grind of black pepper. Melt 1Tbs.
unsalted butter in a medium saucepan
over medium heat. Add 1cup pearl
couscous and cook, stirring,
until light golden, about
3minutes. Add 1 13cups
lower-salt chicken broth,
bring to a boil, reduce to a
simmer, cover, and cook
until nearly tender, about
8minutes. Stir in cup
coarsely chopped dried
cranberries, cover, and cook
for 1minute more. Toss the cous-
cous, cup coarsely chopped roasted
almonds, cup sliced scallions, and 2Tbs. finely chopped
fresh mint with the vinaigrette and serve.
Laraine Perri

french potato salad with

white wine and tarragon Serves 4
Put 1lb. halved fingerling potatoes in a pot of cold, well-
salted water. Bring to a boil, and cook until tender, about
10minutes. Drain and transfer to a clean kitchen towel to dry.
In a medium bowl, combine 2Tbs. dry white wine, 1Tbs.
white wine vinegar, 1Tbs. minced shallot, 1tsp. Dijon
mustard, 1tsp. minced garlic, tsp. kosher salt, and tsp.
granulated sugar. Whisk in 3Tbs.
extra-virgin olive oil; season
to taste with freshly ground
black pepper. Add the
TIP potatoes, toss gently, and
For easier let sit for 5minutes. Just
eating, snip very before serving, stir in
long noodles with
3Tbs. sliced scallions,
scissors before
2tsp. thinly sliced chives,
tossing them
with oil. and 1tsp. minced fresh
tarragon; season to taste
with salt and more vinegar.
Laraine Perri

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 41
M A K E I T TO N I G H T
mini meatloaves wrapped in bacon
These single-serving meatloaves are
super cute and tasty, too. Serve with
mashed potatoes and extra ketchup
on the side. Serves4
TIP
If you dont have 8 slices bacon
mini loaf pans or
ramekins, you can cup coarsely chopped onion
shape freeform loaves 13 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
on a baking sheet and 1 medium clove garlic
drape the bacon
cup dry breadcrumbs, such as panko
over them.
1 large egg
3 Tbs. ketchup; more as needed
tsp. Worcestershire sauce
Kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper
1 lb. ground beef, preferably 85% lean
Cooking spray
Barbecue sauce (optional)
Position a rack in the center of the oven
and heat to 400F. Line a large rimmed
baking sheet with parchment. Arrange
the bacon on the sheet with some room
between each slice, and bake until crisp
along the edges, about 10minutes. Trans-
fer to a paper-towel-lined plate to cool.
42 47<31==97<5=1B<=D %
Pulse the onion, parsley, and garlic in a
food processor until chopped, 4 to
5pulses. Add the breadcrumbs, egg,
ketchup, Worcestershire, tsp. salt, and
tsp. pepper. Pulse 3 to 4times to blend.
Transfer to a mixing bowl, add the ground
beef, and mix until well combined.
Lightly spray four mini loaf pans or 6-oz.
ramekins with cooking spray. Cross 2slices
of bacon in each pan or ramekin, press-
ing the bacon along the bottom and up
the sides. (Let any excess hang over for
now.) Divide the meatloaf mixture among
the pans, gently packing it in. Fold the
excess bacon over the meatloaf. Bake until
cooked through (165F), about 30minutes.
Remove from the pan and transfer to a
cooling rack. If you like, combine an equal
amount of ketchup and barbecue sauce in
a small bowl and brush some on the meat-
loaves before serving hot. Lynne Curry
Pair With: ZINFANDEL A classic
American wineone that comple-
ments both bacon and ketchupgoes
with a classic American meal.
Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day
THE BEGINNING OF EXTRAORDINARY
Maille Dijon Originale mustard,
enriching flavors since 1747
Meals, Maille, Memories.
maille.com
ADVERTISEMENT

HOLIDAY CHEER
CELEBRATE THE SEASON WITH MOUTHWATERING CHOCOLATE TREATS.
DURING THE HOLIDAYS, everyone worlds best cacao beans from sustainable PRLVWRXUOHVVFDNHDWOHIWRUVLPSO\HDWWKH
is up for indulging in decadent desserts. farms. The beans are then gently processed FKRFRODWHRXWRIKDQG6WRFNXSRQ6FKDUHQ
Especially when those sweets are made LQVPDOOEDWFKHVWRFUHDWHH[TXLVLWHJRXUPHW Berger products and start the celebration
ZLWKDYRUIXO6FKDUHQ Berger chocolate. SURGXFWV&KRRVH6FKDUHQ%HUJHUFKRFRODWHV today.
5HQRZQHGIRUWKHLUKLJKTXDOLW\FKRFRODWH WRFUHDWHGUHDP\ELWHVVXFKDVWKHWUX HV
6FKDUHQ%HUJHUSULGHVLWVHOIRQVRXUFLQJWKH below, to bake delicious desserts like the rich,

Flourless Chocolate
Almond Cake
Instead of flour, this moist dense cake is made
with ground almonds that are first toasted for
extra flavor. Serves 12
6 oz. Scharffen Berger 70%
Cacao Bittersweet Chocolate
cup espresso or double strength coffee
10 Tbs. butter
cup plus 2 Tbs. sugar
6 large eggs, separated
tsp. salt
2 cups almonds, toasted and
finely ground
Confectioners sugar for sprinkling,
optional
Whipped cream (optional)
Preheat oven to 375F. Lightly grease and flour the
pan and line the bottom with parchment paper.
In the top of a double boiler or in a bowl placed
over a pan of simmering water, melt the chocolate
and coffee, stirring frequently. Set aside to cool
slightly.
With a hand held mixer, or heavy-duty mixer with
the paddle attachment, beat the butter and cup
of the sugar until ivory colored. Add the egg yolks,
two at a time. Continue to beat until the mixture is
light and airy. Fold in the chocolate.
In a clean dry bowl using clean dry beaters, whip Tawny Port Vanilla Truffles
the egg whites with the salt until soft peaks form
Rich and luxurious, theres no better way to end a holiday meal than with a dark chocolate truffle infused with
when the beaters are lifted. Gradually beat in
the harmonious flavors of tawny port and vanilla. Makes about 40
the remaining two tablespoons sugar until the
egg whites are stiff but not dry. Fold the ground 1 cup heavy cream heat, stirring occasionally to teaspoon. Roll the truffles to
almonds into the whites. Fold the chocolate 18 oz. Sharffen Berger prevent scorching. create balls and transfer to a
mixture into the egg white mixture. bittersweet (70%) parchment-lined baking sheet.
In a large bowl, pour the
chocolate, finely cream over the chocolate, let Put the sparkling sanding sugar
Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and spread chopped (about 3 cups)
it evenly. Place the pan in the oven and immediately sit 3minutes, then stir with a in a small shallow bowl. Roll the
2 Tbs. unsalted butter, silicone spatula until the mixture truffles one at a time in the sugar
turn the heat down to 350. Bake 15 minutes. Turn
softened is smooth. Stir in the butter, port, to coat and transfer to another
the oven down to 325F. Bake an additional 45
minutes. Turn the oven down to 300F and bake 15 2 Tbs. tawny port vanilla, and a pinch of salt until parchment-lined baking sheet.
to 20 minutes. Turn the oven off and leave in the 2 tsp. pure vanilla extract well combined. Cover with plastic Cover with plastic and refriger-
oven, with the door ajar, for another 30 minutes. wrap and refrigerate until firm, ate up to 2 hours or overnight.
Kosher salt
about 2 hours. Let sit at room temperature for
Cool on a rack. Remove the sides of the pan cup sparkling sanding 20minutes before serving.
and transfer to a serving platter. Sprinkle with sugar, more if needed Remove the chocolate mixture
confectioners sugar. Serve slices with whipped from the refrigerator, scoop it Truffles can be refrigerated in
In a small saucepan, bring the into 1-inch balls using a melon an airtight container for up to
cream, if desired.
cream to a boil over medium baller, small scoop, or rounded 2weeks.
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 45
 M A K E I T TO N I G H T
t chicken and corn chowder
Heres a perfect soup for
cold fall nights. Adding
the corn cobs to the pot
along with the kernels
amps up the sweet corn
flavor. Serves 4
2 oz. (4Tbs.) unsalted butter
lb. skinless, thin-cut
boneless chicken breast
Kosher salt and freshly
ground black pepper
Earth, Fire & Flavor 1 medium yellow onion,
chopped
2 medium cloves garlic,
The Pie Dish minced
 lb. red potatoes, cut into
-inch pieces
 3 Tbs. all-purpose flour
 4 cups lower-salt chicken
W broth
 4 ears corn, kernels removed
and cobs cut in half and
HAUTE CERAMIC FROM BURGUNDY reserved
MADE IN FRANCE SINCE 1850 1 cup heavy cream
Thinly sliced fresh chives,
for garnish
;SZb BPa]TbVSPcbbS`W\OZO`US
aYWZZSb]dS`[SRWc[VWUVVSOb
5S\S`]caZgaSOa]\bVSQVWQYS\
OZZ]dS`eWbVaOZbO\R^S^^S`
/RRbVSQVWQYS\b]bVSaYWZZSbW\
OaW\UZSZOgS`O\RQ]]YTZW^^W\U
]\QSO\RORXcabW\UbVSVSObOa
\SQSaaO`gc\bWZU]ZRS\P`]e\
O\RXcabQ]]YSRbV`]cUV b]
![W\cbSa^S`aWRSB`O\aTS`b]O
46 47<31==97<5=1B<=D %
QcbbW\UP]O`RQ]]ZP`WSTZg
O\RaV`SR
;SZbbVS`S[OW\W\U BPa
PcbbS`W\O#_cO`b2cbQV]dS\
]`]bVS`VSOdgRcbg^]b]dS`
[SRWc[VSOb/RRbVS]\W]\
O\RQ]]YabW``W\U]QQOaW]\OZZg
c\bWZb`O\aZcQS\bOP]cb![W\
cbSa/RRbVSUO`ZWQO\RQ]]Y
abW``W\Uc\bWZT`OU`O\bOP]cb
!aSQ]\RaAbW`W\bVS^]bO
b]SaA^`W\YZSeWbVbVSTZ]c`O\R
bVS\abW`b]W\Q]`^]`ObSOP]cb
!aSQ]\Ra
AbW`W\bVSP`]bVORRbVS
Q]PaW\Q`SOaSbVSVSObb]VWUV
O\RP`W\UbVS[Wfbc`Sb]OP]WZ
@SRcQSbVSVSObO\RaW[[S`
c\bWZbVS^]bOb]SaO`SbS\RS`
&b][W\cbSa@S[]dSbVS
Q]PaeWbVb]\UaO\RRWaQO`RAbW`
W\bVSQ]`\YS`\SZaaV`SRRSR
QVWQYS\O\RQ`SO[1]]Yc\bWZ
VSObSRbV`]cUVOP]cb![W\
cbSaASOa]\b]bOabSeWbVaOZb
O\R^S^^S`a^`W\YZSeWbVbVS
QVWdSaO\RaS`dS
Erica Clark
Pair With: CHARDON-
NAY Chicken, corn, cream:
If ever there were a combi-
nation of ingredients that
called for Chardonnay, this
is it. A crisp one will provide
nice contrast to all the rich-
ness.
This season, the view is different.

with FINE COOKING

heads to Europe.

JOIN US FOR SEASON 5

Our newest adventures take us to Bologna, Parma, Livorno, Turin,
Dijon, and Paris. Look for the show on your local PBS station.
For showtimes, recipes, and more, go to finecooking.tv

Moveable Feast with Fine Cooking

is a production of WGBH Boston and
distributed by American Public Television.
2017 The Taunton Press

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 47

WILD RICE-APRICOT
BROWNED BUTTER STUFFING
MAKES 8-10 SERVINGS
INGREDIENTS
3/4 cup (about 5 ounces) uncooked wild rice
10 ounces sourdough bread, cut into cubes
1/2 cup butter plus additional for baking dish
6 slices bacon
1 medium onion, chopped
4 ribs celery, sliced
1 cup (6-ounce bag) chopped
Sun-Maid Dried Apricots
1 medium pear, cored and chopped
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves or
1 teaspoon dried
2 cups unsalted chicken stock
DIRECTIONS
COOK wild rice according to package
directions and set aside.
HEAT oven to 300F.
PLACE bread cubes on baking sheet. Bake
10 minutes until bread is toasted. Remove
bread from oven.
INCREASE oven to 375F. Butter a 3-quart
baking dish.
COOK 1/2 cup butter and the bacon in large
saucepan (4 quart) over medium heat 4-5
minutes until butter starts to foam and is
slightly browned, stirring occasionally.
ADD onion and celery and cook 6-8 minutes
until vegetables start to soften, stirring.
ADD apricots, pear, parsley and thyme.
Cook 4 minutes until vegetables are softened,
stirring as needed.
STIR in bread cubes, rice and chicken stock
until stuffing is evenly moistened. Turn into
prepared baking dish.
BAKE 30-35 minutes until heated through
and golden.
SERVE warm with poultry.
Find hundreds of holiday recipes at
SUNMAID.COM/RECIPES
48 47<31==97<5=1B<=D %
M A K E I T TO N I G H T
DINNER FOR TWO
sweet and spicy tuna tartines
This elevated open-face tuna
sandwich packs a ton of disparate
flavors that come together for an
incredible bite. Serves 2
1 6- to 7-oz. jar tuna packed
in olive oil, preferably yellowfin
cup mayonnaise
2 Tbs. hot sauce, such
as Cholula
2 Tbs. finely chopped sweet
gherkins
1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh dill
Freshly ground black pepper
4 slices seedless German
pumpernickel
1 small lemon, cut into quarters
3 Tbs. finely chopped red bell pepper
2 Tbs. finely chopped red onion
Persian cucumber, very thinly sliced
Flaky sea salt, for serving
TIP
For the
classic rectangle
shape, look for
pumpernickel
labeled
Westphalian.
Drain the tuna well, transfer to a medium
bowl, and break apart with a fork. Stir in the
mayonnaise, hot sauce, gherkins, dill, and
tsp. pepper.
Evenly divide the tuna salad among
the slices of bread (it will be a thin layer).
Squeeze a quarter of the lemon over each
sandwich, then evenly distribute the bell
pepper, onion, and cucumber over the
tuna. Sprinkle with a little flaky sea salt,
and serve.
Ronne Day
Pair With: HARD CIDER Enjoy a
grown-up version of apple juice with
this elevated version of a tuna sand-
wich. The bubbles will complement the
tartines bright elements while nicely
contrasting with the creamy mayo.
 FILL YOUR
HOLIDAY
TABLE
WITH

WILD RICE-APRICOT
BROWNED BUTTER STUFFING
SEE RECIPE ON OPPOSITE PAGE
 ADVERTISEMENT

COUNTER CULTURE
Sophisticated and
versatile, this high-quality
multi-function cooker is
a welcome addition to
the kitchen.
Wolf Gourmets new multi-
function cooker is much
more than a slow cooker;
it can also sous vide,
cook rice, saut, and sear.
Cooks can create fabulous
meals with a exible
variety of customizable
slow-cooking modes and
pre-programmed settings.
Now its easier than ever
to serve sous vide sea
bass, rich, tender veal
shanks, or a avorful pilaf.

WOLF GOURMET
MULTI-FUNCTION COOKER

BROUGHT TO YOU BY

@wolfgourmet #wolfgourmet wolfgourmet.com


Sear and slow-cook the shanks
Browning the shanks well is essential for juicy,
deeply avored meat.
Watch a video on perfecting Osso Buco in the Multi-Function Cooker at finecooking.com/osso-buco
Osso Buco with Mustard &
Horseradish Gravy
Serve over mashed potatoes or egg noodles, along with roasted root
vegetables or sauted greens. Serves 4
2 Tbs. olive oil
4 veal shanks (about 4 lb.)
Kosher salt and freshly
ground black pepper
1 cup homemade or lower-
salt canned chicken broth
1 cup dry white wine (such
as Sauvignon Blanc)
2 Tbs. tomato paste
2 carrots, peeled and cut in
quarters crosswise
1 medium yellow onion,
peeled, root trimmed but
left intact, and quartered
lengthwise
3 cloves garlic, smashed
3 sprigs fresh thyme
1 large bay leaf
3 allspice berries
2 Tbs. brandy
tsp. prepared horseradish
tsp. grainy prepared
mustard
1 tsp. all-purpose flour
2 Tbs. sour cream
2 Tbs. minced fresh flat-leaf
parsley
Set the multi-function cooker
to high sear and heat the olive
oil until shimmering. Pat the
shanks dry with paper towels,
and sprinkle generously with
salt and pepper. Sear the shanks
in the cooker until deep golden
brown on one side, about 5
Slowly cooking the shanks in a subtle and
sophisticated wine and tomato sauce yields a
rich gravy.
Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day
minutes. Turn and sear the other
side, about 5 minutes. Reduce
the heat to medium, remove, and
set aside the shanks. Whisk the
broth, wine, and tomato paste
and add to the multi-function
cooker. Bring the broth mixture
to a simmer, scraping the bottom
to loosen any browned bits. Turn
the cooker to manual low and add
the carrots, onion, garlic, thyme,
bay leaf, and allspice. Nestle the
shanks on top of the vegetables,
cover, and cook until fall-apart
tender, about 4 hours.
Transfer the shanks to a cutting
board and tent with foil to keep
warm. Strain the contents of
the vessel through a sieve into a
heatproof bowl and discard the
solids. Skim any fat from the top
of the strained liquid (or use a
fat separator). Return the liquid
to the cooker, and turn to high
saut. Bring to a boil and then
simmer rapidly until reduced by
half, about 10 minutes. Whisk
in the brandy, horseradish, and
mustard. In a small bowl, mix the
our into the sour cream, stir in
a few tablespoons of the sauce,
and then pour the sour cream
mixture into the sauce, whisking
vigorously to blend. Cook over
low saut, stirring occasion-
ally, for 5 minutes to blend the
avors. Meanwhile, transfer the
shanks to 4 plates. Serve with
the gravy and a sprinkling of
parsley.

Sous Vide Chilean Sea Bass with
Brown Butter, Carrots, and Snap Peas
Nutty brown butter and tart fresh lemon complement the rich avor of sea bass, and
the accompanying carrots and sugar snap peas add texture and earthy sweetness. If
you cant nd sea bass, use halibut instead. Serves 4
4 5- to 6-oz. skinless Chilean sea
bass fillets (about inch thick)
Kosher salt
4 oz. ( cup) plus 2 Tbs.
unsalted butter
8 thin lemon slices plus 1 Tbs.
juice (from 1 medium lemon)
4 medium carrots, sliced
on the diagonal
4 oz. sugar snap peas, strings
removed and thinly sliced on
the diagonal (1 cups)
tsp. toasted sesame seeds;
more for garnish
1
/8 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
4 quart-size zip-top storage or
freezer bags
Chopped fresh dill, for garnish
Pat the sh dry and season on both
sides with 1 tsp. salt total. Transfer to a
plate, cover with plastic wrap, and chill
for 1 to 2 hours.
In a 1- to 2-quart saucepan, melt
4 oz. of the butter over medium heat,
swirling frequently, until the milk solids
turn golden-brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Im-
mediately transfer the butter to a bowl
with 4 of the lemon slices. Let cool
to room temperature, then strain and
discard the lemon slices.
Melt the remaining 2 Tbs. butter on
the low saut setting in the multi-
function cooker. Add the carrots with
a pinch of salt and cook with the cover
ADVERTISEMENT
on, stirring until crisp tender, about
4 to 6 minutes. Add the peas and
cook, stirring often, until the peas are
bright green and crisp tender, about
2 minutes. Add the sesame seeds and
the red pepper akes, then season to
taste with salt. Transfer to a bowl to
cool, before dividing among the zip-top
bags.
Divide the butter and the remaining
4 lemon slices among the bags. Put
1 piece of sh in each bag. Seal the
bags, pressing out as much air as pos-
sible, and gently massage the sh to
Sous vide the fish
coat it all over.
Fill the multi-function cooker with 5
quarts of lukewarm water and turn
to sous vide at 135. When the water
has reached the appropriate tempera-
ture (this can be adjusted for desired
doneness of sh), put the bags of sh
and vegetables in the water (the tops
of the bags can stick out). Cook until
the center of the sh registers 125F
on an instant-read thermometer (open
the bags to check), 30 to 40 minutes.
Transfer the bags to a rimmed baking
sheet and let sit for 5 minutes.
Using scissors, snip off one corner of
each bag and drain the butter into a
small bowl. Stir the lemon juice into
the butter and set aside. Add the bags
of carrots, sugar snap peas, and sh
to 4 dinner plates. Pour the reserved Use the multi-function cookers sectioned insert
lemon-butter mixture over the sh, to separate and allow for easy removal of sous
garnish with the lemon slices and vide bags.
sesame seeds, and serve.

Mushroom Pilaf
Rice pilaf is a snap in the Wolf Gourmet multi-function cooker. First, saut avorful
ingredients, then rely on the rice setting for light, uffy results. Serves 8
4 Tbs. unsalted butter
2
/3 cup finely chopped shallots (about
4 oz. or 4 medium shallots)
1 oz. dried chanterelle mushrooms,
rehydrated in chicken stock and
chopped, broth strained and reserved
1 cup coarsely chopped fresh chanterelle
mushrooms
2 cups long grain white rice
4 cups chicken broth
2 sprigs fresh thyme
Kosher salt and freshly ground
black pepper
2 tsp. finely chopped tarragon;
more sprigs for garnish
Melt the butter in the Wolf Gourmet multi-
function cooker on the low saut setting.
Saut the shallots and the rehydrated and
fresh mushrooms until softened but not
browned, about 5 to 6 minutes.
Stir in the rice and cook, stirring for 1 minute.
Pour in 4 cups chicken broth (you may need to
supplement with up to 1 cup of water for the
broth absorbed by rehydrating the mush-
ADVERTISEMENT
WOLF GOURMET
MULTI-FUNCTION COOKER
The Wolf Gourmet multi-function cooker
includes a variety of helpful settings for slow
cooking meals. One is the program setting
which allows for two different heat and time
cycles in the same cooking session. Or, use
the temperature probe to cook meals to a
specic temperature. Another useful feature
is meal timer, an intelligent setting that
determines the most appropriate temperature
for the amount of time you program. Explore
these settings and many more when you cook
with the multi-function cooker.
Cook the pilaf
Saut the mushrooms in the Wolf Gourmet
multi-function cooker on saut/sear mode
before adding the rice to the cooker.
rooms), the thyme and tsp. kosher salt.
Turn the multi-function cooker to rice setting
Rice 1, cover and allow rice to cook until the
cooker turns automatically to warm, about 20
to 25 minutes.
Fluff and separate the rice grains with a fork.
Dont stir vigorously or the rice may get
gummy.
Fold in the chopped tarragon, add salt and
pepper to taste, and garnish with tarragon
sprigs.
 SEP Detroit, MI: Detroit Free Press Food & Wine Experience
16 Featuring Martha Stewart, Presented by Bedrock
SEP Rochester, NY: Democrat and Chronicle Food & Wine Experience
23 Featuring Martha Stewart Culinary Experts

OCT Ventura, CA: Ventura County Star Food & Wine Experience
1 Featuring Martha Stewart

OCT Indianapolis, IN: IndyStar Food & Wine Experience

7 Featuring Martha Stewart Culinary Experts

OCT Louisville, KY: Courier-Journal Food & Wine Experience

21 Featuring Martha Stewart Culinary Experts, Presented by Kroger

OCT Green Bay, WI: Wisconsin Food & Wine Experience

28 Featuring Martha Stewart Culinary Experts

NOV Milwaukee, WI: Milwaukee Food & Wine Experience

4-5 Featuring Martha Stewart Culinary Experts
NOV Phoenix, AZ: azcentral Food & Wine Experience
4-5 Featuring Martha Stewart, Presented by Cadillac
NOV Southwest, FL: Paradise Coast Food & Wine Experience
11 Featuring Martha Stewart Culinary Experts, Presented by La Croix

DEC Las Vegas, NV: Martha Stewart Food & Wine Experience
2 Featuring Martha Stewart, Presented by USA TODAY NETWORK

FEB Vero Beach, FL: TC Palm Food & Wine Experience

24 Featuring Martha Stewart Culinary Experts

Now featuring Martha Stewart in select cities and the ultimate Martha Stewart experiences at
all events our savory series of Food & Wine experiences is an American culinary tour for fans
and connoisseurs alike. Indulge in food, wine, beer and spirits from famous chefs and mixologists,
enjoy cooking demos, and discover the latest gourmet secrets of the nations top culinary talent.

LEARN MORE AT FOODANDWINE.USATODAY.COM

 VEGETARIAN
Three experts create delicious, meatless dishes that
can play a starring role at any holiday feast.
Whether you or your guests are vegetarian, Thanksgiving dinnerwith all of its
emphasis on turkeycan be challenging. Too often, vegetarians end up with a
plateful of sidesand only those without bacon in them. With this in mind, we
asked three culinary experts who love vegetables to develop dishes that taste
and look extra-special, and also pair well with the elements of the traditional
Thanksgiving table. These mains can also be made ahead, at least in part,
so they wont take much effort on the big day. The only real difficulty
they present will be having enough for everyone, because even those
who will be eating turkey will want at least a taste.
HOLIDAY

Butternut Squash
and Swiss Chard
Lasagne, recipe p. 59 >

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 57
 SERVE WITH
Crisp Roasted Parsnips
Mixed Green Salad
with Red-Wine and
Dijon Vinaigrette

Alec Joseph Bates (Recipes available at

FineCooking.com)

IR VIN LI N
Irvin Lin is a designer and
art director turned award-
winning photographer,
writer, and recipe de-
veloper who writes the
acclaimed blog Eat the
Love. Hes also the author
of Marbled, Swirled, and
Layered, touted by the
New York Times as one of
the best baking cookbooks
of 2016. While Irvins blog
focuses on baking, he is
equally adept at savory
cooking (as his lasagne
proves). Says Irvin, Even
though every vegetarian
I have ever had over for
Thanksgiving has said they
are happy to make a meal
out of the side dishes, I
like to make sure there is
at least one main-course
option for those who dont
eat turkey.

Make ahead
Prepare the butternut squash
sauce and the chard mixture,
and refrigerate separately
in covered containers up to
three days before assembling,
baking, and serving.
The lasagne may be
assembled up to one day
ahead, wrapped, and
refrigerated. Bring to room
temperature before baking.
butternut squash and swiss chard lasagne
Satisfyingly cheesy like a traditional
lasagne but bursting with the
autumnal flavors of squash and
chard, this dish makes a satisfying
Thanksgiving entre. Serves 6to 8
2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil;
more as needed
1 medium butternut squash
(about 2 lb.), halved lengthwise
and seeded
3 cups whole milk
4 Tbs. unsalted butter
6 Tbs. all-purpose flour
1 oz. finely grated Parmigiano-
Reggiano or Grana Padano
(about 1cups)
tsp. finely chopped fresh sage
18 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
Kosher salt and freshly ground
black pepper
1 small yellow onion, coarsely
chopped (about 23cup)
4 medium cloves garlic, minced
2 lb. Swiss chard (about 2large
bunches), stems thinly sliced
and leaves cut crosswise into
1-inch-wide pieces
1 lb. ricotta
1 large egg, lightly beaten
8 oz. instant (no-boil) lasagna
noodles
9 oz. fontina, grated (about
2cups)
Position a rack in the center of the oven
and heat to 400F.
Line a rimmed baking sheet with alumi-
num foil and lightly brush with oil. Put the
squash cut side down on the sheet, and
roast until fork tender, about 60minutes.
Set aside to cool.
Reduce the oven temperature to 350F.
Heat the milk in a medium saucepan over
medium heat until bubbles form around the
side of the pan, about 7minutes. Remove
the pan from the heat and cover.
Melt the butter in a medium sauce-pan
over medium heat. Add the flour, and
whisk until smooth. Continue to cook,
whisking constantly without browning,
for about 2minutes. Whisking constantly,
gradually add the milk and cook, continu-
ing to whisk, until the sauce thickens,
about 2minutes. Remove 1cup of the
sauce, cover, and reserve. Remove the pan
with the remaining sauce from the heat.
Scoop the flesh from the squash into a
medium bowl, and mash with a fork until
free of lumps. Add the squash, cup of
the Parmigiano, the sage, nutmeg, 1tsp.
salt, and tsp. pepper to the sauce in the
pan, and season to taste with more salt
and pepper.
Heat the 2Tbs. of oil in a large skillet
over medium heat. Add the onion and
cook, stirring occasionally, until translu-
cent, about 2minutes. Add the garlic and
cook until fragrant, about 30seconds.
Add the chard stems and cook, stirring
occasionally, until they start to soften,
about 3minutes. Add the chard leaves in
batches, stirring and allowing to wilt
before adding another batch. Cook,
stirring occasionally, until tender, about
6minutes. Remove the pan from the
heat, add the reserved 1cup of sauce,
cup of the Parmigiano, tsp. salt, and
tsp. pepper, and stir to coat the chard.
In a medium bowl, combine the ricotta,
egg, the remaining cup of Parmigiano,
tsp. salt, and tsp. pepper.
Lightly oil a 9x13-inch baking dish.
Evenly spread 1cups of the squash
sauce in the bottom of the dish. Cover
with a layer of noodles, then layer in
one-fourth of the remaining squash
sauce, one-fourth of the chard mixture,
and one-fourth of the fontina. Dollop
one-fourth of the ricotta mixture on top.
Beginning again with a layer of noodles,
repeat the layering as directed above
three more times.
Bake until the edges of the lasagne are
browned and bubbly, rotating the pan
halfway through baking, 45 to 55min-
utes. Heat the broiler on high. Broil for
1to 2minutes to brown the top. Cool for
about 15minutes before serving.
Pair With: CHARDONNAY This dish
could pair with either a light red or a
heavy white. Because of the softer
flavors here, white wins. Try a Char-
donnay from Californiaits richness
will offset any bitterness in the chard.
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 59
heirloom bean and potato cassoulet
With deeply developed flavors and
aromas that satisfy and entice,
this cassoulet has everything you
would expect from this homey
French classic, except all the meat.
Serves 8
1 lb. dried beans, preferably
yellow eye or cranberry,
picked over, rinsed, and
drained
2 large sweet potatoes,
peeled and cut into
medium dice (about 5cups)
3 large russet potatoes, peeled
and cut into medium dice
(about 3cups)
cup plus 2Tbs. olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly
ground black pepper
1 bunch kale (about 1lb.),
stems removed, leaves
and stems cut into
1-inch pieces
2 medium white onions, diced
(about 3cups)
4 cups plus 3Tbs. vegetable
stock or broth; more as needed
2 medium shallots, minced
(about 13cup)
3 Tbs. unsalted butter
2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice
1 Tbs. pickled jalapeos
(or sweet pickled peppers),
finely chopped; more for serving
1 cup plain panko
cup chopped fresh flat-leaf
parsley
Put the beans in a large pot with enough
eObS`b]Q]dS`Pg W\QVSa0`W\Ub]
a boil over high heat, cover, remove
T`][bVSVSObO\RZSba]OYT]`V]c`
(Alternatively, soak the beans refriger-
ObSRW\O[^ZSeObS`]dS`\WUVb2`OW\
the water from the beans, cover with
T`SaVeObS`Pg W\QVSaO\RP`W\Ub]O
P]WZ]dS`[SRWc[VWUVVSOb@SRcQSb]
a simmer, and cook until tender, about
![W\cbSa
Position a rack in the center of the
]dS\O\RVSObb]"4 flavors to work with the sweet
Put the sweet and russet potatoes in
OZO`USP]eZO\Rb]aaeWbV BPa]TbVS
]WZ ba^aOZbO\Rba^PZOQY^S^^S`
Spread in a single layer on a rimmed
baking sheet, and roast until slightly
tender and just beginning to brown,
OP]cb#[W\cbSa
60 47<31==97<5=1B<=D %
;SO\eVWZSVSOb BPa]TbVS]WZW\O
ZO`USaYWZZSb]dS`[SRWc[VWUVVSOb1]]Y
the kale, stirring and adding it in batches
OabVSZSOdSaPSUW\b]eWZbOP]cb$[W\-
cbSaASOa]\eWbVba^]TaOZbB`O\aTS`
b]OP]eZ
6SOb BPa]TbVS`S[OW\W\U]ZWdS
]WZW\bVSaYWZZSb]dS`Z]eVSOb/RRbVS
onion and cook, stirring occasionally,
c\bWZbS\RS`b]#[W\cbSaB`O\aTS`
the cooked onion to a blender with
!BPa]TbVSdSUSbOPZSab]QYO\R^`]-
QSaac\bWZa[]]bV
Bc`\bVS]dS\R]e\b]!#4
6SOb$BPa]TbVS]WZW\O"_cO`b
2cbQV]dS\]dS`[SRWc[VSOb/RRbVS
SERVE WITH
shallots and cook, stirring, until lightly
P`]e\SROP]cb![W\cbSa/RRbVS Sauted Spinach
with Shallots
PSO\aO\RbVS`S[OW\W\U"Qc^aab]QY
Roasted Brussels
and bring to a simmer over medium-
Sprouts with
VWUVVSObAbW`W\bVSPcbbS`O\RbVS
Brown Butter
]\W]\^c`{S1]dS`bVS^]bO\RPOYS and Lemon
until the beans soak up some of the
ZW_cWRO\RPSQ][S[]`SbS\RS`OP]cb @SQW^SaOdOWZOPZSOb
![W\cbSa 4W\S1]]YW\UQ][
@S[]dSbVS^]bT`][bVS]dS\O\R
stir in the roasted potatoes, kale, lemon
XcWQSO\RXOZO^S]aASOa]\b]bOabSeWbV
aOZbO\R^S^^S`
@Sbc`\b]bVS]dS\O\RPOYSc\bWZbVS
PSO\aVOdSOPa]`PSR[]ab]TbVSZW_cWR
O\ROQ`cabVOaT]`[SR]\b]^"#b]
$[W\cbSa
B]aabVS^O\Y]eWbVbVS`S[OW\W\U
BPa]WZ BPa]TbVS^O`aZSgba^
aOZbO\Rba^^S^^S`B]OabW\O
large skillet over medium-high heat,
abW``W\UT`S_cS\bZgc\bWZU]ZRS\OP]cb
![W\cbSa
Sprinkle the top of the cassoulet
with the remaining parsley, top with the
panko, return to the oven, and bake until
P`]e\SROP]cb[W\cbSa:Sb`SabT]`
OP]cb![W\cbSaPST]`SaS`dW\U
Pair With: GRENACHE Fruit
potatoes, weight to work with
the overall depth of flavor, and
acidity to cleanse your palate
and ready it for another bitethis
wine has it all.
 Melissa Hom
S U ZA N NE C UPPS
Suzanne Cupps is executive
chef of Untitled and Studio
Caf, Union Square Hospi-
tality Groups restaurants
at the Whitney Museum
of American Art in New
York City. After earning
a math degree, Suzanne
attended culinary school,
then worked in some of the
best kitchens in New York
City. She creates vegetable-
centric menus inspired by
the seasons. I like shifting
the focus from meat to
vegetables, Suzanne says.
Its not about removing
meat from our plates but
highlighting great seasonal
produce and cooking it in
delicious ways so that it
becomes the star of the
meal.

Make ahead
Prepare the beans, roast the
potatoes, pure the onion, and
saut the kale, and refrigerate
each separately in covered
containers up to two days
before assembling, baking,
and serving.

Warm each component, or

allow to come to room tem-
perature, before assembling
and baking the cassoulet.
 SERVE WITH
Cider-Glazed Turnips & Apples

Grilled Sweet Potato, Pistachio,

and Pomegranate Salad

(Recipes available at
FineCooking.com)

Matthew Benson

CAR A MAN GINI

Cara Mangini is chef and
founder of the Little Eater
restaurants and farmstand
in Columbus, Ohio, and
author of the award-
winning book The Vegeta-
ble Butcher. Her mission
is to put vegetables at the
center of the American
plate. Cara embraces
vegetable cookery every
day of the year, but sees
extra opportunities at
Thanksgiving. Harvest
season is the perfect time
to let vegetable-focused
main dishes inspire the
meal, she says. The
season presents a range of
so many vegetables in their
prime; they deserve to be
celebrated.

Make ahead
Prepare the leek filling and
refrigerate in a covered
container up to three days
before assembling, baking,
and serving the galette.
The dough can be made,
wrapped tightly in plastic,
and refrigerated two days
before assembling, or made,
wrapped, and frozen for
longer storage.

62 47<31==97<5=1B<=D % Photographs, except where noted, by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day
potato and leek galette with rosemary and sea-salt crust
Potatoes and leeks baked in a buttery
crust are punctuated with the snap of
aged provolone and the flavor of rosemary.
Serves 8 to 10
FOR THE DOUGH
9 oz. (2cups) all-purpose flour
1 Tbs. granulated sugar
1 tsp. minced fresh rosemary
1 tsp. fine sea salt
5 oz. (10Tbs.) cold unsalted butter,
cut into small pieces
cup ice water, plus up to another
cup as needed
FOR THE FILLING
2 Tbs. unsalted butter; more as needed
3 large leeks, white and light-green
parts only, halved lengthwise and
thinly sliced (about 6cups)
Fine sea salt and coarsely ground
black pepper
cup heavy cream
1 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes (about
four medium), peeled and sliced
18inch thick
2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
1 tsp. finely chopped fresh rosemary
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
1 large egg
cup whole-milk ricotta
3 oz. aged provolone, coarsely grated
Flaky sea salt
MAKE THE DOUGH
Pulse the flour, sugar, rosemary, and salt in a food
processor fitted with a metal blade. Add the butter,
and pulse until the mixture looks like coarse meal.
Sprinkle cup of the water over the mixture, and
pulse to combine. Gently squeeze a handful of
crumbs; they should hold together. If they easily
break apart, add water 1Tbs. at a time, up to an
additional cup, pulsing and then checking the
consistency after each addition. Dump the mixture
onto a work surface, form into a ball, then flatten
into a disk. Wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for
a minimum of 45minutes or up to two days.
MAKE THE FILLING
Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat.
Add the leeks, tsp. of the fine sea salt, and 18tsp.
pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the
leeks are tender, adding more butter if the pan be-
comes too dry, about 8minutes. Reduce the heat
to low, add the cream, and cook, stirring frequently,
until thickened, about 1minute. Set the leeks aside
to cool.
In a large bowl, toss the potatoes with the oil,
tsp. fine sea salt, 1tsp. of the rosemary, and tsp.
of the lemon zest. In a small bowl, lightly beat the
egg with 1tsp. water to make an egg wash; set aside.
MAKE THE GALETTE
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat
to 400F.
Lightly flour the dough, a rolling pin, and a piece of
parchment cut to fit a large rimmed baking sheet. Roll
the dough from the center outward on the parch-
ment to form a 14-inch diameter circle. (Dont fret
about making a perfect circle, but try to maintain an
even thickness.) Transfer the parchment and dough
to the baking sheet (the dough will hang over the
edges at this point).
Leaving a 2-inch border, evenly spread the
leek mixture in the center. Stir the potatoes, then
lift from the bowl, leaving behind any liquid, and
distribute evenly over the leek mixture, overlapping
the slices. Tuck any irregularly shaped potato slices
under or between the more perfect rounds, mak-
ing sure to maintain the 2-inch border. Dollop the
ricotta over the potatoes, and sprinkle with tsp.
flaky sea salt and the remaining tsp. lemon zest,
topping each dollop of ricotta with a small pinch of
salt and lemon zest. Top the filling with the provo-
lone, the remaining tsp. rosemary, and a grind of
fresh pepper.
Fold the edge of the dough up and over the fill-
ing, pleating it as you go. If the dough sticks to the
parchment, refrigerate for 5 to 10minutes, then
continue folding. Brush the folded edge with the
egg wash, and sprinkle with tsp. flaky sea salt.
Bake, rotating the baking sheet halfway through,
until the crust is golden brown, the cheese is
golden in places, and the potatoes are tender, 45to
60minutes. If the top of the galette is browning
too quickly, tent with foil and continue to bake until
the potatoes are tender. Transfer to a cooling rack,
and let cool for about 10minutes. Serve warm or at
room temperature.
Pair With: VIOGNIER The richness in this
galette points to almost any big white wine,
but Viognier has an aromatic quality thatll
nicely complement the creamed leeks.
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 63
 MAKE

/  4/D= @ 7 B 3
Become a fan of its anise flavor in four fabulous recipes.
BY MARTHA HOLMBERG

64 47<31==97<5=1B<=D %
fennel, with its pale green bulb and
licoricelike flavor, is a commonly used
vegetable in italy and francesome-
thing i noticed years ago as a young
cook in paris. Here in the United States, not so
much. It may be that people more familiar with fennel seeds
(see p. 68), which come from a different variety of fennel,
worry that the aniselike flavor might be too strong. But the
vegetables flavor is more subtle, which means you dont have
to be a black-licorice-loving Swede like me to appreciate it.
Read on for more reasons to become a fan.

Fennel is versatile. Raw fennel is crisp and refreshing,

especially when very thinly sliced or shaved for salads and
slaws. Fennel takes well to all kinds of cooking methods,
too, including searing, grilling, roasting, and braising.
When cooked, it becomes tender and even more sweet
and makes a great side dish or condiment.
Fennel is available year-round. A cool-weather
cropit tends to bolt in very hot weatherfennels main mussels with fennel and fregola
season is October through April. That said, in cooler cli- This recipe comes courtesy of my friend chef Joshua McFad-
mates, its harvested in summer, so most supermarkets will den; a dish similar to this is in our cookbook. I love it so muchits
carry it year-round. Though it may look a little intimidating fragrant, colorful, and satisfyingthat I had to share it here. Feel
at firstlarge fennel bulbs with their stems and dill-like free to garnish it with a fennel frond or two. Serves 4
fronds make me think of bagpipesyour main consider- 1 cup fregola or Israeli stirring occasionally, until soft
ation for choosing and eating is the bulb. It can be quite couscous
and golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes.
rounded or slightly flat, but it should look bright white and Kosher salt
Remove the garlic and set it aside.
green with no browning. The hardy vegetable will keep, like cup extra-virgin olive oil;
more as needed
Add the fennel, season with tsp.
celery, for up to a couple of weeks in the crisper.
2 cloves garlic, smashed salt, and cook, stirring occasionally,
Fennel is a cinch to prepare. To begin, trim off the and peeled until tender, 12 to 15 minutes.
stalks; theyre quite fibrous and best saved for stock. The 1 lb. fennel (about 1medium Increase the heat to medium
frilly fronds attached to the stalks can be used like an bulb), trimmed, cored, and high. Add the mussels, chorizo, and
sliced crosswise inch thick
herb, adding flavor and making a pretty garnish. The pepper flakes. Return the garlic to
1 lb. mussels, scrubbed and
bulb is what you want to eat. debearded the pan and toss. Add the wine,
For most preparations, youll cut the bulb in half lb. cured chorizo, cut cover, and cook, shaking the pan
lengthwise, which exposes its core. Use a paring knife into small dice occasionally, until the mussels
to remove most of it, but dont throw it away as it holds tsp. crushed red pepper open, about 5minutes. If some
lots of flavor, something I learned from testing recipes flakes are not open, give them another
for Six Seasons, a new cookbook I co-wrote with Joshua cup dry white wine 1to 2minutes. Discard any
McFadden, chef of the veg-centric Ava Genes in Portland, cup chopped fresh flat- unopened mussels.
leaf parsley; more to taste
Oregon. I now use the core in my cooked fennel dishes, Add the parsley, zest, juice,
1 tsp. finely grated orange
but because its more fibrous, I slice it more thinly or chop zest and butter, and shake the pan to
it more finely. Once trimmed and cored, you then cut the cup fresh orange juice incorporate. Add the fregola, cover,
bulb as the recipe directs. 2 Tbs. unsalted butter, and remove from the heat for 1to
cut into pieces 2 minutes to warm the fregola.
Fennel plays nice with other foods. Given that fennel
Uncover, toss, and serve drizzled
hails from the Mediterranean, its no surprise that it pairs Cook the fregola or couscous in
with olive oil and topped with
well with ingredients like oranges, olives, and oregano. well-salted water according to
additional parsley, if you like.
Youll find all of those in the delicious recipes that follow. package directions until barely al
Once you try these dishes, fennel will become more popu- dente. Drain well, toss with a drizzle
lar in your cooking, too. of oil, and set aside. Pair With: TORRONTS Mus-
cadet is considered classic with
Heat the oil in a 7-quart Dutch mussels, but fruity and aro-
Martha Holmberg, a former editor in chief of Fine Cooking, is oven or similar pot over medium matic Torronts also goes well
a food writer, recipe developer, and chief executive officer of the heat. Add the garlic and cook, with the orange in this version.
International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP).

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 65
pasta with roasted fennel and tomatoes
As the fennel and tomatoes roast, their
juices mingle to create a luscious sauce.
Finocchiona, salami flavored with fen-
nel seeds (finocchio is Italian for fennel),
reinforces the fennel flavor of the dish.
Look for it in the deli or cheese section
of your market. Serves 4
1 to 2lb. fennel (1 very large or
2 medium bulbs), trimmed, cored,
and sliced lengthwise 18inch thick
2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil; more
as needed
Kosher salt and freshly ground
black pepper
1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved
8 oz. cavatappi, penne, or other
short pasta
4 oz. fresh mozzarella, coarsely
grated
cup drained and chopped
mildly spicy or hot peppers in oil
(such as Mama Lils brand)
66 47<31==97<5=1B<=D %
1 oz. thinly sliced finocchiona O\RaZWUVbZg`SRcQSRO\]bVS`#b] [W\cbSa
or other salami, cut into
thin strips (about cup)
;SO\eVWZSP`W\UOZO`US^]b]TeSZZaOZbSR
cup chopped fresh flat-leaf
eObS`b]OP]WZ1]]YbVS^OabOOQQ]`RW\Ub]
parsley ^OQYOUSRW`SQbW]\ac\bWZOZRS\bSEVS\bVS
cup grated pecorino romano ^OabOWaR]\SaQ]]^]cbQc^]TbVSQ]]YW\U
or Parmigiano-Reggiano; eObS`O\RbVS\R`OW\
more to taste
7\OZO`USP]eZb]aabVS^OabOeWbVbVSTS\\SZ
b][Ob][Wfbc`S[]hhO`SZZO^S^^S`aaOZO[W
Position a rack in the center of the oven and
O\R^O`aZSg/RRbVSQVSSaSO\RQc^]TbVS
VSObb]" #4
Q]]YW\UeObS`O\Rb]aaeSZZORRW\U[]`SeObS`
B]aabVSTS\\SZeWbVbVS]WZW\O'f!W\QV
Oa\SSRSRc\bWZbVS^OabOWadS`gZWUVbZgQZ]OYSR
POYW\URWaV]`aW[WZO`ASOa]\US\S`]caZgeWbV
W\OZcaVaOcQSO\RbVS[]hhO`SZZOWaabO`bW\Ub]
aOZbO\R^S^^S`2`WhhZSeWbVOP]cb BPa
[SZbASOa]\b]bOabSeWbVaOZbO\R^S^^S`O\R
eObS`O\R`]Oabc\Q]dS`SRc\bWZbVSTS\\SZWa
aS`dSeWbVORRWbW]\OZU`ObSR^SQ]`W\]WTg]cZWYS
a]TbO\RabO`bW\Ub]P`]e\ObbVSSRUSa!b]
"[W\cbSa/bZSOabbeWQSRc`W\U`]OabW\UabW`
Pair With: SANGIOVESE Easy on fruit
O\Rb]aabVSTS\\SZb]^`][]bSSdS\Q]]YW\U
flavors but full of good acidity, Sangio-
AQ]]bbVSTS\\SZ]dS`b]]\SVOZT]TbVSPOY vese is almost always a good choice for
W\URWaVO\RORRbVSb][Ob]Sab]bVSS[^bg tomato-based pastas. In fact, the wine
a^OQSASOa]\eWbVaOZbO\R^S^^S`1]\bW\cS is known for having flavors of roasted
tomato, just like the ones in this dish.
`]OabW\UeWbVO\]QQOaW]\OZabW`c\bWZbVSb][O
b]SaVOdSQ]ZZO^aSRO\RbVSXcWQSaZ]]YPcPPZg
fennel cont with grilled lamb
Like caramelized onions, slowly cooked
fennel becomes deep, rich, and sweet
tasting. Paired with a lemony, gremola-
talike herb garnish, its a great accom-
paniment to lamb chops coated in
crushed fennel seeds. Serves 4
cup extra-virgin olive oil; more as needed
3 medium cloves garlic, 2 smashed and
peeled, 1 minced
1 to 1lb. fennel (about 1medium
bulb), trimmed, cored, and sliced
lengthwise 18inch thick (reserve some
fennel fronds for garnish)
Kosher salt and freshly ground
black pepper
2 tsp. fennel seeds
tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
8 lamb rib chops
cup coarsely chopped fresh
flat-leaf parsley
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
1 Tbs. fresh lemon juice; more as needed
1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh oregano
Heat the oil over medium-low heat in a large
skillet. Add the smashed garlic, and cook until
its soft, fragrant, and lightly browned, 2 to
3minutes; dont let it get too dark, which would
make it taste bitter. Add the fennel, toss with
tsp. salt and a few grinds of pepper, reduce
the heat to low, and cover the pan. Cook, stir-
ring occasionally, until the fennel is slightly soft
and translucent, about 20minutes. Remove
the lid, and continue to cook over very low heat,
scraping occasionally. Youll begin to see the necessary, until cooked to your liking, 4to 6min-
juices caramelizing on the base of the panyou
want to scrape those up and incorporate them
into the fennel. Continue cooking until the fen-
nel is very tender and sweet, 40 to 50minutes
total. If not using right away, let cool, then cover
and refrigerate for up to 5days. Reheat gently
before serving.
Combine the fennel seeds and pepper
flakes in a mortar and pestle, and crush the
fennel seeds. Season the chops with salt
and pepper, and press the pepper flakes and
fennel seeds onto all sides. Let the chops sit
at room temperature for 20minutes, or cover
and refrigerate for up to 24hours.
Just before cooking, combine the parsley,
lemon zest and juice, oregano, and minced
garlic in a small bowl; season with a bit more
salt, pepper, and lemon juice; it should taste
bright and zingy.
Grill or sear the chops over medium-high
heat, flipping once and adjusting the heat as
utes total for medium rare (130F). Serve the
chops topped with the herb mixture, the confit,
and fennel fronds, if you like.
Pair With: SYRAH Big, bright, and full of
lush fruit flavors, Syrah is almost always
amazing with lamb, but its especially
perfect here because of the fennel
confitthe wine has green herbal notes
thatll make the dish sing.
How to core
and shave fennel All about fennel
Fennel seeds:
Harvested from common
fennel, which is bulbless, fen-
nel seed has a strong licorice Fronds: BS\RS`T`WZZg
flavor and is often used whole, fronds make a lovely
crushed, or ground in cahoots garnish while adding
with fresh fennel. It pairs delicate flavor.
especially well with pork.

To core fennel, remove the woodiest part

of the core with a paring knife. If slicing
the bulb lengthwise, leave enough core to
keep the slices intact.

Stalks: While
too fibrous for
most cooking,
stalks can
infuse flavor
in stocks
and may be
pickled, too.

Use a mandoline to shave fennel. In raw Fennel pollen: With hints of Bulb: BVWaWa
dishes, like salad, you want the thinnest honey and citrus as well as where the action
possible slices. Slicing lengthwise creates licorice, this golden powder is. When a recipe
good-looking pieces. packs a lively punch, and a calls for fresh
ZWbbZSU]SaOZ]\UeOgB`ga][S fennel, it means
sprinkled on fish or whisked this part.
into a vinaigrette.

68 47<31==97<5=1B<=D % Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day

shaved fennel salad
with oranges, black
olives, and pistachios
With its sweet and salty flavors, this colorful
salad makes a superb first course and would
also work well as a side to a rich braise. A short
soak in ice water makes thin slices of fennel
super crisp and refreshing. Serves 4

1 to 1lb. fennel (about 1medium bulb)

3 medium blood oranges or small navel oranges
13 cup roasted and shelled pistachios, half coarsely
chopped and half finely chopped
1 Tbs. sherry vinegar or red-wine vinegar
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
13 cup oil-cured black olives, pitted and halved
3 Tbs. coarsely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Pinch or two fennel pollen (optional)

If the outside of the fennel bulb looks very fibrous, peel

the outer layer using a vegetable peeler. Cut the bulb in
half lengthwise, and slice it lengthwise as thinly as you
can, preferably with a mandoline. Pile the slices in a
large bowl and fill with ice water. Soak about 20min-
utes to make them crisp.
Meanwhile, segment the oranges: Cut a thin slice off
the top and bottom of an orange to make flat surfaces.
Stand the orange on the work surface, and slice off the
peel and the underlying white pith, working your way
from top to bottom following the curve of the fruit.
Holding the orange over a bowl to catch the juices,
carefully slide the knife between the flesh and the
membrane of each segment, freeing the flesh. Tip the
segments into the bowl as you release each one. When
youre finished, squeeze the remaining membrane
to capture any juice. Repeat with the remaining two
oranges. Pour off most of the juice into a small bowl.
Drain the fennel slices thoroughly, and pat dry with
paper towels. Toss the fennel, orange segments, finely
chopped nuts, vinegar, and enough of the reserved
juice to make the salad nicely moist; you wont need all
of it. Season generously with salt and pepper. Taste and
adjust the seasoning so that its very vibrant. Add the
olive oil, and toss again. Transfer to a platter or plates.
Scatter the olives, coarsely chopped nuts, parsley, and
fennel pollen, if you like, on top; serve cold.

Pair With: SPARKLING WINE Salads with vinai-

grette dressings are wonderful with sparkling wine
because both are bright, light, and refreshing.
Besides, is there a better way to start a meal than
with bubbles?

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 69
 Dressed Up
Pork Chops
Seared, stuffed, pan-roasted, and breaded and
pan-fried, these four recipes will soon become some of
your favorite go-to dinner optionseven for guests.
B Y R O N N E DAY

When you think of making some-
thing special for dinner, pork
chops might not spring to mind. We
tend to associate this affordable and
accessible cut of meat with weeknight
meals, but the truth is that the humble
pork chop can be deliciously dressed
up to suit any occasion.
Mild in taste, they are perfect for
absorbing the flavors of brines, mari-
nades, and rubs. The important thing
is not to overcook them. (Pork now
can be safely cooked to medium/me-
dium rare. For best results, monitor
doneness by temperature not cook-
ing time. Look for an internal tem-
perature from 135F to 140F for just
slightly pink chops, which is the key
to keeping them juicy and tender.)
As a food stylist as well as a recipe
developer, Im partial to bone-in rib
chops, especially when the bone is
frenched (see p. 72). Not only does this
cut look impressive on the plate, but the
bone also delivers on flavor and juiciness
as it insulates the meat around it during
cooking, helping to keep it moist.
The four recipes that follow cel-
ebrate the versatility of a bone-in
rib pork chop, with each delivering
a different approach to flavor and
preparation.
Simple-to-prepare breaded bone-
in pork chops are the perfect foil
for peppery greens topped with a
lemony dressing studded with citrusy-
sweet mostarda.
Succulent and flavorfully browned,
pan-seared pork chops are trans-
formed into something grand when
draped in a decadent sauce made
from veal demi-glace and bacon
lardons.
Roasted bone-in chops with
artichokes and potatoes glazed in
balsamic and thyme make a flavorful
one-pot meal.
And finally, double-thick chops are
brined, then stuffed with sauerkraut,
apples, rye breadcrumbs, and cheese
for an impressive meal.
Youll find that these pork chop
recipes easily fit the bill whether
theyre for a weeknight dinner or a
holiday meal.
Ronne Day is senior food editor/stylist
for Fine Cooking.

70 47<31==97<5=1B<=D %
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 71
 TIPS FOR GETTING
A GREAT SEAR
Start with thick chops. They
are forgiving and can be seared
to a deep golden brown without
overcooking. Thick chops are also
versatile and can be pounded thin
for quick-cooking techniques like
pan-frying.
Use high heat. Make sure the pan
is well heated before adding the
chop(s), and dont overcrowd the
pan. Crowding will make the sur-
face temperature of the pan drop
rapidly, increasing browning time
and the chances of overcooking.

Blot the surface of the chop dry
before searing. To promote the
development of a good brown
crust, the surface of the chop
should be dry when it hits the pan.
Sear the sides of the chop, too.
Lift the chop with tongs while it
is browning in the pan, and rotate
the chop, keeping the fatty edge
in contact with the hot surface to
brown it evenly.

how to FRENCH a chop

1
Trim the meat, fat, and sinew away from the inner and outer
curve of the end of the bone.

2
Scrape the bone clean with the sharp edge of your knife.

72 47<31==97<5=1B<=D %
 roast pork chops
with baby artichokes
and new potatoes
This skillet dinnerwith a pinch of cumin and a splash of
balsamicdevelops a sauce that delivers on flavor. To
serve four, you can double the recipe and transfer every-
thing to a roasting pan after searing the chops. Serves 2

1 tsp. cumin seeds

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 thick bone-in rib pork chops (about 2lb.),
trimmed and frenched (see facing page)
2 Tbs. olive oil
9 oz. fresh baby artichokes or
frozen artichoke hearts, thawed
8 oz. baby new potatoes, halved
3 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced
2 cups lower-salt chicken broth
4 sprigs fresh thyme
1 Tbs. white balsamic vinegar
1 oz. (2Tbs.) unsalted butter
2 tsp. finely sliced fresh chives

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 400F.

In a small skillet, toast the cumin seeds, stirring over medium-
high heat until fragrant, about 30seconds. Transfer to a spice
grinder and grind to a powder, then combine with tsp. salt and
tsp. pepper. Season the pork chops all over with the spice mix.
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat, and sear
the chops, in batches if necessary, while spooning oil from the pan
over the bone to baste, until each side is deep golden brown. Then,
using a pair of tongs, lift the chops to sear the sides (see facing
page), about 4minutes total. Transfer the chops to a plate. Add the
artichokes and potatoes to the pan, and cook, stirring occasionally,
until browned in spots, about 3minutes. Add the garlic and cook,
stirring, for 30seconds.
Add 1cups of the chicken broth to the pan, stirring to scrape up
any browned bits. Cook until the potatoes are just tender, 3 to 5min-
utes. Nestle the pork chops in the pan, add the thyme, and roast until
an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center of a chop reads
135F, about 6minutes.
Leaving the thyme sprigs in the pan, transfer the chops and
vegetables to a plate, and tent with foil. Return the skillet to the
stovetop over medium heat, and reduce the liquid in the pan until
almost completely evaporated, about 2minutes. Add the vinegar,
stirring to scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pan,
then add the remaining 1cup broth, and bring to a boil. Remove
the thyme springs, then whisk in the butter. Cook to reduce slightly,
about 2minutes, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Return
the chops to the pan and spoon some sauce over the tops. Add
the vegetables, sprinkle with the chives, and serve.

Pair With: CRISP CHARDONNAY Artichokes are considered

challenging for food and wine pairing, but a dishs overall
characteristics are always more important than its individual
ingredients. Here, meaty chops, rich potatoes, and a bright,
buttery sauce all point to Chardonnay.

Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 73

pork chops milanese
You cant have too much of the sweet-sour
dressing to sop up the crispy bites of pork
chopits a perfect marriage. Serves 4
cup fresh lemon juice
cup finely chopped mixed-fruit
mostarda (see Note)
Kosher salt and freshly ground
black pepper
1
1 3 cups olive oil
2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil
4 thick bone-in rib pork chops
(about 3lb. total), trimmed and
frenched (see p. 72)
4 oz. (1cup) all-purpose flour
1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes,
ground in a spice grinder
4 large eggs
2 cup plain panko
cup finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
6 Tbs. finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 packed cup baby arugula
Lemon wedges, for serving
Flaky sea salt, for serving
In a small bowl, combine the lemon, mostarda, tsp.
salt, and tsp. pepper. Whisk in 13 cup of the olive oil
and the extra-virgin olive oil. Set aside.
Put each chop between two pieces of plastic
wrap, and pound with a mallet until about inch thick
(because of the bone, it will not be of even thickness).
Season both sides with salt and pepper.
Have ready three shallow bowls large enough to hold
one pork chop at a time. In one bowl, combine the flour
and red pepper; in another, beat the eggs with 2Tbs.
water; and in the third, combine the panko, Parmigiano,
parsley, 1tsp. salt, and tsp. pepper.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to
200F. Put an oven-safe wire rack on a rimmed baking
sheet and set it in the oven.
Dredge each pork chop in the flour, then egg, and
finally panko, lightly pressing the panko to adhere.
Transfer to a plate.
Heat cup of the olive oil over medium-high heat in a
large nonstick skillet. Fry one chop at a time, continually
basting by spooning the hot oil over the thicker side of
the chop until golden brown and just cooked through,
about 2minutes per side, then transfer to the wire rack
in the oven to keep warm. Repeat with the remaining
chops, wiping out the pan and adding cup oil for each.
Serve the chops with the arugula and a drizzle of
the dressing. Pass the lemon wedges, flaky salt, and
any extra dressing at the table.
Note: From Northern Italy, Mostarda is a relishlike
candied and spiced fruit condiment. If you cant find it
(see Sources, p. 100), consider switching the dressing
to a honey-mustard vinaigrette to mimic its flavor.
Pair With: PINOT GRIGIO Although
these chops are hearty from the bread-
ing and pan-frying, the bright acidity
of the dressing and lemon wedges
calls for a similarly bright wine.

POUNDING the chop

Pounding the chop allows it to cook quickly; leaving the bone in

gives a beautiful presentation and helps to ensure it stays moist
during cooking. Pound the chop between two pieces of plastic
wrap until it is to inch thick.

74 47<31==97<5=1B<=D %
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 75
seared pork chops with watercress mashed potatoes
The briny bite of the green peppercorns
is essential to this sauce and pairs
wonderfully with the rich flavors and
textures of the dish. If you dont have
them on hand, you can substitute
capers. Serves 4
2 large russet potatoes (about 1lb. 12oz.),
peeled and cut into large chunks
Kosher salt
4 oz. crme frache (about cup)
3 Tbs. unsalted butter
2 Tbs. whole-grain Dijon mustard
Freshly ground black pepper
lb. slab bacon, cut lengthwise
into -inch slices and crosswise
into -inch lardons
cup finely chopped shallots
(about 2medium)
2 Tbs. finely chopped garlic
1 cup dry white wine
3 oz. veal demi-glace, such as Demi-Glace
Gold
2 Tbs. green peppercorns,
preferably jarred, rinsed
4 bone-in rib pork chops (about 3lb.
total), trimmed and frenched
3 Tbs. olive oil
cup heavy cream
76 47<31==97<5=1B<=D %
2 Tbs. finely chopped watercress, Generously season the chops on both
plus small sprigs for garnish
aWRSaeWbVaOZbO\R^S^^S`
1 Tbs. finely chopped fresh tarragon
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-
high heat, and sear the chops, in batches if
Put the potatoes in a large pot, and add a lib-
necessary, while spooning oil from the pan
eral sprinkle of salt and enough water to cover
over the bone to baste until each side is deep
PgOP]cb W\QVSa1]dS`bVS^]bO\RP`W\U
U]ZRS\P`]e\CaW\UO^OW`]Tb]\UaZWTbbVS
b]OP]WZ]dS`[SRWc[VWUVVSOb@SRcQSbVS
QV]^ab]aSO`bVSaWRSaaSS^% OP]cb
heat to medium low and simmer, uncovered,
#[W\cbSab]bOZB`O\aTS`bVSQV]^ab]bVS
until the potatoes are easily pierced with a
rimmed baking sheet in the oven and bake
T]`YOP]cb#[W\cbSa2`OW\O\R`Sbc`\b]bVS
until an instant-read thermometer inserted in
^]b/RRbVSQ`|[ST`OQVSPcbbS`[cabO`R
bVSQS\bS``SUWabS`a!#4OP]cb%[W\cbSa
ba^aOZbO\Rba^^S^^S`O\R[OaVc\bWZ
Meanwhile, stir the heavy cream into the
a[]]bV1]dS`O\RYSS^eO`[
sauce and bring to a low simmer, stirring
Put a rimmed baking sheet on a rack in the
]QQOaW]\OZZgc\bWZbVWQYS\SROP]cb%[W\cbSa
QS\bS`]TbVS]dS\O\RVSObb] 4
Fold the chopped watercress and tarragon
Put the lardons in a large skillet over
W\b]bVS^]bOb]Sa
medium-high heat and cook, stirring, until
2WdWRSbVS^]bOb]SaO[]\UT]c`^ZObSa
Q`Wa^[W\cbSa@S[]dSeWbVOaZ]bbSR
lean a chop on the potatoes, drizzle with the
a^]]\b]O^O^S`b]eSZZW\SR^ZObS
sauce, and top with a few lardons, a couple
Cook the shallots in the fat remaining in
of sprigs of watercress, and a few grinds of
the pan, stirring frequently until they begin
PZOQY^S^^S`
b]P`]e\ b]![W\cbSa/RRbVSUO`ZWQO\R
Q]]YabW``W\UT]`O\]bVS`!aSQ]\Ra/RR
Pair With: PINOT NOIR Look for a
the wine and cook, stirring, until the pan is Pinot from France, aka Red Burgundy,
[]abZgR`g$[W\cbSa/RRbVSRS[WUZOQS or Oregonitll have more earthy
eWbV Qc^a]TeObS`O\ReVWaYb]W\Q]`^]`ObS notes to complement the bacon and
peppercorns.
/RRbVSU`SS\^S^^S`Q]`\aO\RYSS^eO`[
beer-brined pork chops with wild mushroom stuffing
Stuffed, seared, and baked, these
chops are infused with the flavors of the
filling while the juices from the chops
seep into the stuffing to make a heav-
enly marriage of the two. Serves 2 to 4
2 double rib pork chops
(about 3lb. total), trimmed
and frenched (see p. 72)
2 12-oz. bottles German beer, such
as Oktoberfest; more as needed
Kosher salt
packed cup dark brown sugar
cup cider vinegar
1 tsp. crushed juniper berries
1 tsp. black peppercorns
cup plus 3Tbs. olive oil
3 oz. (6Tbs.) unsalted butter
8 oz. sliced mixed mushrooms,
such as oyster, shiitake, cremini,
and maitake (about 4cups)
cup drained sauerkraut
1 small apple, such as Gala or Honey
Crisp, peeled and cut into small dice,
(about cup)
Freshly ground black pepper
cup grated Emmentaler
1 cups seeded rye bread, lightly
toasted and cut into -inch cubes
cup all-purpose flour
2 cups lower-salt chicken stock
2 Tbs. chopped fresh dill
tsp. spicy brown mustard,
such as Kosciusko
Cut a 5- to 6-inch horizontal slit in the
center of the side of each double chop,
and wiggle your knife up and down inside
the cut to form a generous pocket (see
above right).
Reserve cup of beer. In a large
saucepan over medium heat, combine the
remaining beer with 2 cups of water, cup
salt, the brown sugar, vinegar, juniper berries,
and peppercorns, stirring gently until the salt
and sugar dissolve, about 1minute. Remove
the pan from the heat, and allow the brine to
cool to room temperature, then transfer to a
large heavy-duty zip-top plastic bag. Add the
chops, and expel as much air as possible as
you seal the bag. Refrigerate for a minimum
of 8hours or up to 24hours.
In a large skillet, heat 3Tbs. of the oil
and 3Tbs. of the butter over medium-
high heat. Add the mushrooms and cook,
stirring once or twice, until they begin to
brown, about 7minutes. Using a slotted STUFFING the chop
spoon, transfer half of the mushrooms to
a small bowl. Transfer the remaining mush-
rooms to a medium bowl and combine with
the sauerkraut, apple, tsp. salt, and tsp.
pepper. Let cool to room temperature,
then toss with the cheese and bread.
Remove the pork chops from the brine
and pat dry. Pack the stuffing, evenly divid-
ing it into the two chops and pressing it
firmly into the cavity as you go. Thread two
or three toothpicks through each side of
the opening to seal. Season both sides of
each chop generously with salt and pepper.
Position a rack in the center of the oven
and heat to 375F. Make a deep horizontal cut in the center of the
Heat the remaining cup of oil in a large double chop. Open the pocket wider for stuff-
ing by moving your knife up and down.
skillet over medium-high heat, and sear
the chops, in batches if necessary, while
spooning oil from the pan over the bone
to baste until each side is deep golden
brown. Then, using a pair of tongs, lift the
chops to sear the sides (see p.72), about 5
minutes total. Place the chops in a roasting
pan, transfer to the oven, and cook until an
instant-read thermometer inserted near
but not touching the bone registers 135F,
15 to 30minutes. Transfer to a serving plat-
ter, remove the toothpicks, and tent with
foil for 10minutes.
Meanwhile, set the roasting pan over two
burners on low heat, and add the remaining
3Tbs. of butter. As the butter melts, scrape
up any brown bits from the bottom of the
pan. Sprinkle the flour into the pan. Whisk-
ing constantly, add the remaining cup of
beer and cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes.
Slowly pour about cup of the chicken stock
into the pan while whisking vigorously. As
soon as it thickens, whisk in another cup
of stock. Whisk in the remaining stock, add
the reserved mushrooms, bring the gravy
to a simmer over medium-high heat, and
cook, stirring, until the sauce thickens, about
8minutes. Season with tsp. salt, tsp. pep-
per, the dill, and mustard, and serve with the
stuffed chops.
Pair With: OKTOBERFEST BEER or
MRZEN The beer or wine thats in
a recipe is always a good bet to serve
alongside. Here, its especially sothe
beer has richness, toasty notes, and a
slight sweetness to marry with similar
qualities in the food.
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 77
CHEFS FAVORITE TOOLS
The pros tell us what kitchen equipment they love the most and why.

We asked chefs to share with us their most tried

and true culinary tools and how they use them. Oliver Ridgeway
Executive chef, Grange Restaurant
While some of these items are universally indispensable, you & Bar, Sacramento, California
may be surprised to find that many are simple, inexpensive My Microplane grater has
gadgets. Read on, then let us know what cooking tools you many good uses, the most
obvious being zesting citrus
cant live without at fc@taunton.com.
and grating cheese, nut-
meg, or fresh ginger and
garlic. But its also really
good for adding intense
fresh flavors, such as
that nice tang of fresh
horseradish to beef
tartare. I use it to
grate fresh purple
cauliflower over
a brilliant white
cauliflower cream
soup; its stunning!
Ive also grated maca-
damia nuts so that they look
like snow atop snapper ceviche.

Marcus Samuelsson Bill McDaniel

Chef, Red Rooster,
Harlem, New York
Everyone should have a cast-
iron skillet. Its the pan for every-
thing. It goes easily from stovetop
to oven, has fantastic heat
conductivity that is even and con-
stant, and the surface is perfec-
tion in nonstick. Its the tool I use
most often. The best seasoned
are those that have been handed
down through generations.
Executive chef, Motel Morris,
New York, New York
To get super-thin slices of onion for
cooking or eating raw, or for cutting
vegetables of uniform thickness to make
them au gratin, there is no better tool
than the Benriner mandoline. Its
light and compact, and the blade
maintains a sharp edge. For
the price, there isnt a
better mandoline on
the market.

Charlie Foster
Executive chef, Woods Hill Table,
Concord, Massachusetts
One of my favorite tools to have
in the kitchen is a good boning
knife with a flexible blade. Its
versatile, yielding clean cuts of
meat as well as fillets of fish.

78 47<31==97<5=1B<=D %
 Sara Bradley
Owner/chef, Freight House,
Paducah, Kentucky
It can be challenging to tell Ravi Kapur
Chef, Liholiho Yacht Club,
what is going on inside food San Francisco, California
as it cooks. Thats why I love
my cake tester; the metal I love my Gangy
skewer tells me whats hap- Japanese can
pening inside what Im cook- opener. Its
ing. I rarely use it on cake, but virtually inde-
almost exclusively on meat, structible.
vegetables, and other savory
items. Its so sensitive that
when I pierce something, Germano
I can tell how soft or firm Minin
it is, and when I remove it, Executive chef,
by touching the metal, I Village Tavern,
can feel its internal temp- Ridgefield,
erature, too. Connecticut

I cant live
without my
Melissa Harrison old-style metal
Chef/owner, Seasonal
Montana, Ennis, Montana potato peeler. Its
perfect for making fine
My Vitamix emulsifies shavings of vegetables or
like no other, making the of hard cheeses like Parmigiano
best sauces, vinaigrettes, for salads and pastas. I also use it
aoli, and pures. It will blend for shaving a block of chocolate
almost anything you put in it to garnish my desserts. I even
and makes great juices and use its handle to scale whole
soups. Its great for making fishit works like a charm.
delicious milkshakes and
smoothies, too.

Will Horowitz
Owner/executive chef, Ducks
Eatery, New York, New York
Brian Murphy
Executive chef, Nostrana, Portland, Oregon
A good pocket knife is invalu-
I like big marble or granite mortars, stone-age technology that modern able. Currently, I am loving my
engineering has yet to replace. They are heavy enough to stay put through Kershaw Leek knife. From for-
pounding, and the rough surface has the right toothiness to grind ingredients aging and harvesting in the gar-
thoroughly. The food processor begs to take over pesto duty, but it cant repli- den to the kitchen where I use it
cate the flavor or texture I can get with a mortar and pestle. And if theres music to shuck oysters and break down
playing in the kitchen, its hard not to pound along with the beat. boxes, it just cant be beat.

Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 79

 Get Rolling
Pogaca, light, airy rolls from Turkey, are wonderful with,
well, turkey; try them plain or stuffed.
B Y M A U R A K I L P AT R I C K
As a partner in Sofra, the bakery and
caf that I opened with chef Ana Sortun
in 2008 in Cambridge, Massachusetts, most
of my baking
focuses on
sweet and
savory
dishes from
the Middle
East. Im not
Middle Eastern,
and neither is Ana;
we met in 1996 when both
of us were cooking under Moncef
Meddeb, the esteemed Tunisian
chef, at his 8Holyoke restaurant,
also in Cambridge. In the ensuing
years, weve both traveled extensively
throughout Lebanon and Turkey studying
ingredients, recipes, and techniques. All this is
to say that when it comes to making rolls for
Thanksgiving, I make pogaca, a light, soft, airy
roll that hails from Turkey.
Pronounced po-ah-cha and loosely trans-
lated as hearth bread, pogaca are most
often served at breakfast and with tea. Whether
plain or stuffed with cheese, vegetables, or
meat, they also fit right in at the dinner table.
A basket of them, especially if some are filled,
would make Thanksgivingor any holiday,
reallyfeel even more special.
Pogaca are easy to make, especially if you
have a stand mixer with a dough hook. The
dough comes together beautifully and is a
dream to handle. There are many varieties and
shapes for pogaca, which is found in other
cuisines, too. Making plain round rolls is just
a matter of shaping pieces of dough into balls
80 47<31==97<5=1B<=D %
and baking. The filled breads may be served
simply shaped into an oval or more elaborately
fashioned in an impressive rose shape thats
easier to make than it looks, especially with
the help of the step-by-step photos on p. 84.
Fillings can be savory or sweet, and
the options are endless. Some of the fillings
I offer here are Middle Eastern inspired, such
as feta and parsley or a fragrantly spiced date
butter. [Editors note: We fell hard for the date
filling.] Ive also come up with some flavors that
speak to my own American holiday memories.
My mom put sausage in her turkey stuffing, so
one pogaca always on our Thanksgiving menu
is based on that; the roll itself takes the place
of the bread, and the sausage is cooked with
familiar stuffing flavors like onion, celery, and
thyme. As I am a pastry chef by training,
I just have to offer up a sweet filling, in this case
tenderly cooked, lightly caramelized apples for
a sweet roll that can take the place of a slice of
pie at dinners end.
Pogaca are best served on the day they are
made. But dont fret; you dont have to do all
of the work on Thanksgiving Day. You can fill
and shape your pogaca a day in advance. The
pogaca can also be frozen right after shaping
and baked fresh on Thanksgiving (see p.83
for details). Given all of this, theres really no
reason not to include a little Turkey with your
turkey this year.
Maura Kilpatrick is executive pastry chef
and partner of Sofra Bakery. Shes also co-
author, with chef Ana Sortun, of Soframiz:
Vibrant Middle Eastern Recipes from Sofra
Bakery & Cafe.
A variety of shapes and
fillings makes an impressive
basket fit for the holiday table.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 81
pogaca rolls
These Turkish rolls can be made in different shapes and with or without fillings, which makes them fun to tailor to the Thanks-
giving menu and beyond. Note that there are three sets of instructions for shaping within the recipe below, two of which are for
stuffed rolls. Makes 17 plain or stuffed oval rolls; makes 13 rose-shaped rolls
FOR THE DOUGH
1 cup whole milk, warmed to 105F
1 Tbs. (9grams) active dry yeast
2 tsp. granulated sugar
1 large egg
cup canola oil; more as needed
13 oz. (3cups) all-purpose flour;
more as needed
2 tsp. kosher salt
FOR SHAPING AND BAKING
Filling of your choice if making
stuffed rolls (see recipes, p. 85)
1 large egg
1 tsp. whole milk
3 Tbs. sesame seeds or poppyseeds
(optional) or 2Tbs. demerara or
sanding sugar (optional),
depending on filling choice
82 47<31==97<5=1B<=D %
MAKE THE DOUGH
In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine the milk,
yeast, and sugar. Set aside until foamy, about
5minutes. Whisk in the egg and oil. Put the
dough hook on the stand mixer. Add the flour
and salt, and mix on low speed until the flour
is incorporated, scraping the bowl as needed.
Increase the speed to medium low, and knead
c\bWZa[]]bVO\Rab`SbQVg&b][W\cbSa
(Alternatively, combine and knead the dry
ingredients by hand.)
Lightly flour a work surface, and lightly oil
OZO`USP]eZBc`\bVSR]cUV]cb]\b]bVS
surface and sprinkle lightly with flour. Shape
into a ball, and transfer to the bowl. Cover with
plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature
c\bWZR]cPZSRW\aWhSb]V]c`aAVO^SOa
directed in one of the following three ways.
Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day
TO SHAPE AND BAKE PLAIN, UNFILLED ROLLS
Line a large rimmed baking sheet with
parchment.
Lightly flour a clean work surface, and turn
the dough out onto it. Deflate the dough and
RWdWRSW\b]%^WSQSaOP]cb]hSOQV@]ZZ
each piece into a ball and place on the baking
aVSSbZSOdW\UObZSOab W\QVSaPSbeSS\SOQV
less if you like the flat-edge look shown above.
Cover with plastic wrap, and let rise at room
temperature until an indentation remains after
g]c^`SaaO`]ZZeWbVOTW\US`!b]"[W\cbSa
Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of
bVS]dS\O\RVSObb]!#4
Whisk the egg and milk, and lightly brush
each roll with the wash. Sprinkle with poppy
or sesame seeds, if you like. Bake until golden
P`]e\ b] #[W\cbSa1]]Z]\bVSPOYW\U
sheet set on a wire rack. Serve warm or at room
temperature, preferably on the same day.
TO SHAPE AND BAKE FILLED OVAL ROLLS
Lightly flour a work surface, and turn the dough
onto it. Deflate the dough and divide into 17pieces,
about 1oz. each. Roll each piece into a ball, cover
with plastic wrap, and let rise at room temperature
until an indentation remains after you press a roll
with a finger, 30 to 40minutes.
Line two large rimmed baking sheets with
parchment.
Press or roll a dough ball into a 4- to 4-inch
circle. Place about 1Tbs. of the filling in the cen-
ter of the dough circle. Pull up two sides to enclose
the filling. Seal the dough by pinching with your
fingertips. Turn the roll over so that its seam side
down, and gently roll into an oval or football shape.
Center the filling on the dough round. Pull up the sides around the filling.
Place seam side down on the prepared baking
sheet, and cover with plastic wrap. Repeat with the
remaining balls of dough, leaving at least 2inches
between the rolls. Let rise at room temperature
until almost doubled in size, 30 to 40minutes.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and
heat to 350F. Whisk the egg and milk, and lightly
brush each roll with the wash. If using the sau-
sage or date filling, sprinkle with sesame seeds. If
using the apple filling, sprinkle with the demerara
sugar. Bake, swapping and rotating the pans about
halfway through, until light golden brown, 28 to
33minutes. Cool on the baking sheet set on a wire
rack. Serve warm or at room temperature, prefer-
ably on the same day.

Pinch the two sides closed. Flip and gently roll into an oval.

Make ahead
You can shape the pogaca a day
ahead. Before the final rise, cover
and refrigerate for up to 24 hours.
Let them have their final rise at
room temperature as directed, and
then bake as directed.

You can also freeze them on a

baking sheet before the final rise
and transfer to a freezer bag once
frozen solid. Thaw overnight in
the refrigerator before allowing to
rise at room temperature for 1to
1hours, then bake as directed. The
great thing about this option is that
you can thaw just a few at a time and
have pogaca whenever you want.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 83
 Make four evenly spaced slits in the dough circle, Place a heaping tablespoon of filling in the middle.
leaving the middle uncut.

Fold one-quarter of dough the around the filling Fold the opposite quarter up, folding about inch
to partially enclose but not cover. of the dough edge back to form an open petal.

Fold another quarter up and around in the same manner. Repeat with the final quarter, tucking the sides of the
Gently pinch the dough where it meets to secure. final petal under the flower and pinching to secure.

84 47<31==97<5/C5A3>B %

TO SHAPE AND BAKE ROSE-SHAPED
FILLED ROLLS
Lightly flour a work surface, and turn the
dough onto it. Deflate the dough, and
divide into 13pieces, about 2oz. each.
Roll each piece into a ball, cover with
plastic wrap, and let rise at room tem-
perature until an indentation remains
after you press a roll with a finger, 30 to
40minutes.
Line two large rimmed baking sheets
with parchment. Lightly flour a work
surface.
Roll or press a dough ball into a 5-inch
circle. Starting from the edge and heading
toward the center, cut four evenly spaced
slits, each about 1inches long, into the
circle (see photos at left).
Place about 1Tbs. of the filling in the
center. Wrap one quarter of the dough
around the filling; the dough will partially
cover but not fully enclose the filling. As
you wrap, fold inch of the top of the
dough edge back to form an open petal.
Fold the dough quarter opposite the first
quarter around the filling and fold back
the top to form an open petal. Secure the
dough on the bottom with a pinch. Wrap
and fold a third quarter in the same man-
ner. Then, when folding the final quarter
over, tuck the edges underneath the
rose, and pinch to secure. Place on the
prepared baking sheet, and cover with
plastic wrap. Repeat with the remaining
balls of dough, leaving at least 2inches
between the rolls. Let rise at room
temperature, until almost doubled, 30 to
45minutes.
Position a rack in the center of the
oven and heat the oven to 350F.
Whisk the egg and milk. Lightly brush
the dough with the egg wash. If using
the sausage or date filling, sprinkle with
sesame seeds. If using the apple filling,
sprinkle with the demerara sugar.
Bake, swapping and rotating the pans
about halfway through, until golden
brown, 25 to 30minutes. Cool on the
baking sheet set on a wire rack. Serve
warm or room temperature, preferably
on the same day.
FUN WITH FILLINGS
From an easy two-ingredient herb and cheese mixture to a sausage flavored like
Thanksgiving stuffing to sweet apples perfect for dessert, pogaca fillings can run the gamut.
Use the ones here or experiment with others, such as caramelized onions, mashed
potatoes, or sweetened cranberries. The yields make enough for one batch of dough.
thanksgiving-style sausage
A saut of celery, onions, and thyme
gives this sausage filling the flavor of a
classic stuffing. Makes about 3cups
Melt 1Tbs. unsalted butter in a large skillet
over low heat. Add 1cups chopped yellow
onion and cup finely diced celery, and
cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are
soft, about 8minutes. Transfer to a plate or
shallow bowl to cool. Add lb. sweet Italian
sausage (casings removed) to the skillet, and
cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally
and breaking up any chunks, until browned,
5 to 6minutes. Add the sausage to the
onion mixture, and let cool completely. Stir
in 1Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley,
1tsp. chopped fresh thyme, tsp. kosher
salt, and tsp. freshly ground black pepper.
(The filling can be prepared up to 3days in
advance; keep covered and refrigerated.)
feta and fresh parsley
Though this filling couldnt be easier to
make, it packs a bright punch of flavor,
and the green flecks make it especially
pretty. Makes about 2cups
Combine 8oz. crumbled feta (1cups) with
3Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley.
spiced date butter
The spice mix used here, called
baharat, is a signature flavoring at
the restaurant, and it takes this dried-
fruit filling to the savory side. The spice
mix is also delicious on roast lamb,
chicken, squash, pumpkin, carrots, and
more. Makes about 2cups
Pass 2Tbs. dried oregano and 2Tbs. dried
mint through a medium-mesh sieve into a
small mixing bowl to remove any bits of stem
and make a fine powder. Add 2Tbs. freshly
ground black pepper and 1Tbs. each of
ground cinnamon, nutmeg, cumin, and
coriander. Add 1tsp. ground allspice, and
stir well. (The spice rub will keep for months
stored airtight.)
In a bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
paddle attachment, combine 2cups chopped
pitted Medjool dates and 4oz. (8Tbs.)
softened unsalted butter on medium speed
until the butter is no longer visible. Add 2Tbs.
of the spice mix, then mix by hand until incor-
porated. Transfer to a small bowl. (The butter
can be prepared up to one week in advance;
keep covered and refrigerated.)
caramelized apples
and golden raisins
While savory rolls are delicious with
dinner, sweet ones make a lovely des-
sert or breakfast treat. This one will
remind you of apple pie. Makes 2 cups
Peel, core, and cut 2lb. apples, such as
Granny Smith or Honey Crisp into -inch
dice to yield about 5cups. Combine cup
granulated sugar with 2Tbs. water and
1tsp. fresh lemon juice in a large skil-
let. Heat over medium-low heat without
stirring at first and swirling the pan to cook
the sugar evenly, until a light caramel color,
about 10minutes. Add the apples and 13cup
golden raisins. Cook, tossing occasion-
ally, until the apples are soft when pierced
with a knife, 20 to 25minutes. Let cool, and
then refrigerate until cold. (The filling can be
prepared up to 3days ahead; keep covered
and refrigerated.) Stir the filling thoroughly
before using.
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 85
Usually a supporting player, this crumbly, buttery topping gets its chance
to shine in desserts and baked treats. B Y K A R E N D E M A S C O
I fell in love with streuselthat
delicious mix of butter, sugar, and
flour often found on crumb cake
when I was a pastry cook at Gramercy Tavern
in New York City. One of our popular desserts
was a fruit crisp. While the seasonal fruit was
always a hit, our customers went wild for the
crunchy, nutty, cinnamon-spiked streusel, a
perfect complement to the warm baked filling.
Streusels deliciousness neednt be limited to
fruit crisp and crumb cake, however. Because
its so versatile, streusela German word
meaning sprinklehas become one of my
baking staples. Its the perfect crunchy, buttery
element to add to cookies, muffins, or even an
ice cream sundae.
Making streusel is easy. Its just a matter of
pouring melted butter into a flour and sugar
mixture, then stirring briefly to moisten. You
need only one bowl to make a batch, whether
by hand or with a mixer.
Its also a great make-ahead item. I prepare
big batches of streusel and always have bags
of it in my freezer. That kind of time-saver is
huge at any point in the year, but especially
during the holidays. Im never too far away
from a batch of jam-filled bar cookies or a
coffee cake.
Streusel is also versatile, both in flavor
and in how its featured. Im sharing three of
my favorite streusels here: Marcona almond;
cardamom, cocoa, and cacao nib; and coconut
and macadamia. They all have a flour-and-oat
base, but each one pops with its own dis-
tinctive flavor. They are all sweet, of course,
but I balance that with a briny hit of salt for
contrast. In a couple of recipes, I also call for
the streusel to be baked so that its nice and
crisp before its incorporated with the rest of
the ingredients.
The streusel variations are interchangeable
among the recipes featured here, so feel free to
mix and match to enjoy your favorite flavors.
It wont take you long to realize streusel is
more than just a crumb topping.
Karen DeMasco is pastry chef at Hearth in New York
City and is the author of The Craft of Baking.
 CHOOSE YOUR STREUSEL
These recipes make big batches of streusel. If you dont have a 6-quart or
larger stand mixer, get out your biggest bowl and mix it by hand.
marcona almond streusel
Buttery Marcona almonds enhance this
classic cinnamony streusel with a salty
crunch. Makes about 11cups of streusel
1 lb. (2cups) unsalted butter
1 lb. 6oz. (5cups) all-purpose flour
2 cups salted Marcona almonds, toasted and
coarsely chopped (see Note)
1 cup rolled oats
1 packed cup dark brown sugar
cup granulated sugar
cup plus 2Tbs. demerara sugar
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
1 tsp. kosher salt (see Note)
Line two large rimmed baking sheets with parch-
ment. In a medium saucepan, melt the butter
over low heat; keep warm.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
paddle attachment, combine the flour, almonds,
oats, sugars, cinnamon, and salt. Mix on low
a^SSRc\bWZQ][PW\SROP]cb!aSQ]\RaEWbV
the mixer running, slowly pour in the butter. Stop
the mixer as soon as the butter is incorporated,
OP]cb[W\cbSBVSab`ScaSZeWZZO^^SO`[]Wab
but crumbly.
Divide the streusel between the prepared
baking sheets, spreading it to cover each pan and
breaking up any large clumps with your fingers.
@ST`WUS`ObSc\Q]dS`SRT]`ObZSOab![W\cbSa]`
overnight. Use right away, or transfer to a zip-top
POUO\RT`SShSOW`bWUVbT]`c^b]![]\bVa
Note:7\Q`SOaSbVSaOZbb] ba^WTcaW\Uc\aOZbSR
almonds.
88 47<31==97<5=1B<=D %
cocoa cardamom streusel coconut macadamia
This streusel offers a satisfying crunch streusel
delivered from the cacao nibs while
Coconut and macadamia nuts
the cardamom offers a sweet, floral
give this streusel a tropical flair.
undertone. Makes about 8 cups
Makes about 6cups
16 oz. (2cups) unsalted butter
8 oz. (1 cup) unsalted butter
1 lb. 6oz. (4cups) all-purpose flour
10 oz. (2 cups) all-purpose flour
1 cup cacao nibs
cup plus 2 Tbs. granulated sugar
cup granulated sugar
packed cup dark brown sugar
packed cup plus 2 Tbs. dark brown sugar
cup demerara sugar
cup demerara sugar
1 cup salted toasted macadamia nuts,
cup unsweetened cocoa powder coarsely chopped
2 tsp. ground cardamom 1 cup unsweetened flaked coconut
1 Tbs. kosher salt 1 tsp. kosher salt
Line two large rimmed baking sheets with
Line two large rimmed baking sheets with
parchment. In a medium saucepan, melt the
parchment. In a small saucepan, melt the
butter over low heat; keep warm.
butter over low heat; keep warm.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
Combine the flour, sugars, nuts, coco-
the paddle attachment, combine the flour,
nut, and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer
cacao nibs, sugars, cocoa, cardamom, and
fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix on
salt. Mix on low speed until combined, about
Z]ea^SSRc\bWZQ][PW\SROP]cb!aSQ
!aSQ]\RaEWbVbVS[WfS``c\\W\UaZ]eZg
]\RaEWbVbVS[WfS``c\\W\UaZ]eZg^]c`
pour in the butter. Stop the mixer as soon as
in the butter. Stop the mixer as soon as the
bVSPcbbS`WaW\Q]`^]`ObSROP]cb[W\cbS
PcbbS`WaW\Q]`^]`ObSROP]cb[W\cbSBVS
BVSab`ScaSZeWZZO^^SO`[]WabPcbQ`c[PZg
streusel will appear moist but crumbly.
Divide the streusel between the prepared
Scrape the streusel onto the prepared
baking sheets, spreading it to cover the
baking sheet, spreading it to cover and
entire pan and breaking up any large clumps
breaking up any large clumps with your
with your fingers. Refrigerate for at least
TW\US`a@ST`WUS`ObST]`ObZSOab![W\cbSa
![W\cbSa]`]dS`\WUVbCaS`WUVbOeOg]`
or overnight. Use right away, or transfer to
transfer to a zip-top bag and freeze airtight
a zip-top bag and freeze airtight for up to
T]`c^b]![]\bVa
![]\bVa
Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Ronne Day
cranberry streusel muffins
Sweet, crumbly streusel bal-
ances bursts of tartness from
the cranberries in these tender
sour-cream muffins, shown here
with Marcona Almond Streusel.
Serves 18
Cooking spray
cup granulated sugar
packed cup dark brown sugar
13 cup grapeseed or vegetable oil
1 large egg plus 1 large yolk, at room
temperature
2 tsp. finely grated orange zest
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
cup apple cider, at room
temperature
cup sour cream, at room
temperature
tsp. pure vanilla extract
6 oz. (1cups) all-purpose flour
13 cup rolled oats
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
tsp. baking soda
tsp. ground cardamom
tsp. kosher salt
6 oz. (1 cups) fresh or frozen Place each muffin tin on a rimmed
cranberries, coarsely chopped
baking sheet, and bake until the tops
2 cups chilled streusel of
your choice (see facing page) are golden and the center of each
muffin bounces back when lightly
Position racks in the upper and lower pressed, about 25minutes, rotat-
thirds of the oven and heat to 350F. ing and swapping the pans halfway.
Coat two 12-cup muffin tins (prefer- Cool for 20minutes in the tins on a
ably nonstick) with cooking spray, wire rack, then loosen with an offset
including the tops of the pans. spatula before transferring to
In a large bowl, whisk the sugars a rack to cool completely.
with the oil. Add the egg and yolk,
and whisk until combined. Whisk in
the zests.
In a small bowl, whisk the cider, sour
cream, and vanilla.
In a medium bowl, whisk the flour,
oats, cinnamon, baking soda, car-
damom, and salt. In three additions,
alternately add the dry ingredients
and cider mixture to the egg mixture.
Using a large flexible spatula, gently
fold in the cranberries.
Evenly divide the batter among 18of
the muffin cups, then evenly divide the
streusel among the cups of batter.
pear and ginger crisp
A liberal topping of streusel (shown here with
Coconut Macadamia Streusel) makes the layer
of fork-tender juicy-sweet pears a wonderful
surprise. Top a serving with a scoop of vanilla
ice cream, if you like, and youve got the perfect
dessert for a brisk autumn evening. Serves 6
Cooking spray
6 ripe Bartlett or Bosc pears, peeled,
cored, and cut into -inch dice
cup granulated sugar
1 Tbs. grated fresh ginger
2 tsp. cornstarch or tapioca starch
2 cups chilled streusel of your choice (see p. 88)
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat
to 350F. Lightly coat an 8x8-inch or other 6-cup
ovenproof baking dish with cooking spray. Line a large
rimmed baking sheet with parchment.
In a large mixing bowl, combine the pears, sugar,
ginger, and cornstarch. Scrape the pear mixture into
the baking dish, and top with the streusel.
Bake on the prepared sheet until the streusel is
golden brown and the juices have thickened, about
40minutes. Let cool at least 10 minutes before serving.
raspberry jam bars
This lunchbox-friendly treat (shown here with
Marcona Almond Streusel) is like a fruit crisp in
bar-cookie form. Try it with other jam flavors, if
you like. Serves 16
Cooking spray
6 cups chilled streusel of your choice (see p. 88)
1 cup raspberry jam or preserves
Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to
350F. Line the bottom of an 8-inch square baking
pan with parchment. Lightly coat the parchment and
the sides of the pan with cooking spray.
Press 4cups of the streusel into the baking pan.
Spread the jam evenly over the streusel. Sprinkle the
remaining streusel in an even layer on top.
Bake, rotating the pan about halfway through, until
fragrant and the top is golden brown, 35 to 40min-
utes. Let cool completely in the pan on a wire rack,
then cut into 2-inch squares. Store in an airtight con-
tainer for up to a week.
streusel coffee cake
If youre a fan of New York-style
crumb cake, youre going to love
this version, which is more streusel
(shown here with Cocoa Cardamom
Streusel) than cake. Too much of
a good thing? Nah. Its just right.
Serves 8
2 oz. (4Tbs.) unsalted butter;
more for the pan
6 cups chilled streusel of your
choice (see p. 88)
2 large eggs
cup granulated sugar
2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
13 cup olive oil
2 Tbs. whole milk
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice
4 oz. (1cup plus 3Tbs.) cake flour
tsp. baking powder
tsp. kosher salt
Confectioners sugar, for dusting
(optional)
Position a rack in the center of the oven
and heat to 350F. Line an 8-inch round
cake pan with parchment. Lightly butter
the parchment and the side of the pan.
Evenly spread the streusel in the pre-
pared pan. Transfer to the oven and bake
for 10minutes. Set aside.
In a small saucepan, melt the butter
over low heat and keep warm.
Fill a medium saucepan about one-
third full of water and heat to just under
a simmer.
In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine the
eggs, sugar, and zest. Place the bowl over the
simmering water, and whisk until the sugar
dissolves, about 2minutes. Fit the mixer with
the whisk attachment, then whip the egg
mixture on medium high until thick, pale yel-
low, and double in volume, about 3minutes.
In a small bowl, whisk the olive oil, milk,
and lemon juice. In a separate small bowl,
whisk the flour, baking powder, and salt.
With the mixer on medium, drizzle the
olive oil mixture into the eggs. Turn the
mixer to low and add the dry ingredients,
stopping as soon as they are incorporated
and scraping the side of the bowl as nec-
essary. Fold in the melted butter.
Pour the batter over the streusel,
spreading it to cover evenly. The batter will
barely cover the streusel.
Bake, rotating the pan halfway through,
until the cake is golden and bounces back
to the touch in the center, 38 to 40minutes.
Let the cake cool in the pan on a wire
rack for about 20 minutes. Run a knife
around the edge, then invert the cake onto
a serving plate. Dust the cake with confec-
tioners sugar, if you like. Serve warm or at
room temperature.
F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 91
 chocolate chip oatmeal
streusel cookies
Baked nuggets of oaty, nutty streusel (shown here
with Marcona Almond Streusel) are right at home in
this twist on a classic cookie. Makes 48cookies

3 cups chilled streusel of your choice (see p. 88)

2 cups rolled oats
6 oz. (1cups) all-purpose flour
1 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. baking soda
7 oz. (14Tbs.) unsalted butter, softened
1 packed cup dark brown sugar
cup granulated sugar
1 tsp. pure vanilla extract
2 large eggs, at room temperature
12 oz. (2cups) bittersweet chocolate chips

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to 350F.

Line two large rimmed baking sheets with parchment. Gently
spread the streusel on one of the baking sheets and bake,
rotating the pan halfway through, until golden brown and
fragrant, 12 to 15minutes. Let the streusel cool to room tem-
perature in the pan on a wire rack before using. (The cooled
baked streusel can be stored in an airtight container at room
temperature for up to 5days). Leave the oven at 350F.
In a large mixing bowl, whisk the oats, flour, salt, baking
powder, and baking soda.
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attach-
ment, beat the butter, sugars, and vanilla on medium speed
until smooth and creamy, about 2minutes, scraping down
the sides of the bowl as necessary. Add the eggs one at a
time, beating until combined and scraping down the bowl
before adding the next. Add the dry ingredients in three
additions, beating between each addition and scraping
down the bowl as needed. Using a wooden spoon or large
flexible spatula, fold in the chocolate chips and the streusel.
Drop the dough by rounded tablespoons onto the pre-
pared baking sheets, leaving 2inches between each. Bake
one sheet at a time for 12 to 14minutes, rotating the pan
halfway through, until the cookies are cracked and golden
brown around the edges.
Transfer the baking sheet to a wire rack, and let rest
10minutes before removing the cookies to a cooling rack.
Store in an airtight container for up to 3days.

Shape and freeze for bake-to-order treats.

Scoop tablespoonfuls of dough onto a
parchment-lined baking sheet and place in the freezer.
Once the dough balls are frozen, place them in a zip-
top bag and store in the freezer. Place frozen dough
on a parchment-lined baking sheet and let sit at room
temperature for 10minutes before baking as directed.

92 47<31==97<5=1B<=D %
Because the streusel recipes make
more than you need for these des-
serts, youre going to have leftover
streusel. This is a good thing. Here are
some ideas for enjoying it:

Sprinkle unbaked streusel on top of

quickbread batter before baking.

Roll up unbaked streusel in your

favorite sticky bun dough.

Use baked streusel in place of granola

in a yogurt parfait for breakfast.

Garnish a frosted cake or cupcakes

with baked streusel crumbs.

Crumble baked streusel over a dish of

your favorite pudding.

Eat baked streusel as a snack.

vanilla ice cream streusel

sundaes with candied cherries
Layers of streusel (shown here with Cocoa
Cardamom Streusel) provide a surprising
buttery crunch that contrasts with the cool,
creamy scoops of ice cream and the luxurious
cherries. Imported Italian maraschino cher-
ries are a splurge for this sundae, and theyre
worth it. Makes 3sundaes

2 cups chilled streusel of your choice (see p. 88)

1 pint vanilla ice cream
1 jar good-quality maraschino cherries,
such as Luxardo Maraschino (see Sources, p. 100)
1 cup heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks

Position a rack in the center of the oven and heat to

350F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parch-
ment. Spread the streusel on the baking sheet and
bake for 12 to 15minutes, rotating the pan halfway
through, until the streusel is golden brown and fra-
grant. Let cool to room temperature. (Use right away,
or store in an airtight container for up to 5days.)
To assemble the sundaes, sprinkle about cup
streusel in the bottom of a sundae glass (or similar),
then top with a scoop of ice cream, 1Tbs. liquid from
the jar of cherries, and two halved cherries. Repeat
to make a second layer. Top the sundae with a dollop
of whipped cream, a sprinkle of streusel, and a cherry.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 93
 Bag
This Easy One Pot Meal is All Natural and Extra Juicy

with NEW If You Care Non Stick Parchment Roasting Bags.

RECIPE

Juicy Roasted Chicken Thighs in a Bag

Serves 4-6
Ingredients
WEVS0DLOOH'LMRQ2ULJLQDOH0XVWDUG VKDOORWVWKLQO\VOLFHG
Sustainable. WEVSGU\ZKLWHZLQH OHPRQWKLQO\VOLFHG
FSC and OHPRQ]HVWHGDQGMXLFHG FKLFNHQWKLJKVVNLQRQ
FORYHVJDUOLFWKLQO\VOLFHG WVSJDUOLFSRZGHU
&RPSRVWDEOH&HUWLHG WVSIUHVKWK\PH WVSVHDVDOW
Non-GMO. Non-Toxic. OEQJHUOLQJSRWDWRHVKDOYHG WVSIUHVKO\FUDFNHGEODFNSHSSHU
OHHNWULPPHGDQGVOLFHGLQLQFKSLHFHV WEVSEXWWHU
Gluten and Allergen Free.
Preparation
Totally Chlorine Free.  Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. mustard mixture on top of the chicken and vegetables and fold
Vegan. Vegetarian.  In a small bowl, mix together Maille Dijon Originale Mustard, the open end of the bag tightly towards the top as many times as
white wine, lemon juice and zest, garlic, and thyme, then set aside. possible to seal.
Renewable Resources.
 Place potatoes, leeks, and shallots in an If You Care Medium  Roast in the oven for 35 minutes, then remove and open the bag
All Natural. Non Stick Parchment Roasting Bag, seam side up on a rimmed by either ripping or cutting with scissors to expose the top of the
baking sheet or roasting pan. Then season the chicken with chicken. Baste chicken with butter, then place back in oven to
the garlic powder, salt and pepper and place inside the bag on roast for another 15 to 20 minutes, or until desired brownness,
top of the vegetables. Place the lemon slices in the bag and pour then serve and enjoy!

LI\RXFDUHFRPURDVWLQJEDJV

94 47<31==97<5=1B<=D %
 T E S T K I TC H E N
Tips/Techniques/Equipment/Ingredients/Glossary

TECHNIQUE

KS-
T H A NN
GIVI G
Tableside carving
g
CookinAL
done right
SPECI
If you plan to carve your turkey whole at
the table and want tender, juicy slices of
breast meat, be sure to slice against the grain.
Heres how: Begin by making a cut to sepa-
rate the leg from the breast. Then run the
knife along the breast bone to separate the
meat from the bone. Finally, slice the breast
vertically with the tip of your knife pointing
toward the breast bone.

Photographs by Scott Phillips; food styling by Diana Andrews F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 95

T E S T K I TC H E N
TECHNIQUE
Turkey roasting tips
Follow these tips for juicy, tender turkey.
Fresh or frozen: A fresh turkey will yield
a moister, juicier roast bird, but if you buy
frozen, allow one day for every 5lb. to fully
defrost in the refrigerator before roasting.
Let it dry: To promote the development
of crisp skin during roasting, after defrost-
ing (if frozen) and brining (if you choose),
pat the turkey dry with paper towels, and
refrigerate, uncovered on a rimmed baking
sheet, for 4 to 12hours before roasting.
Oven temperature: While some cooks
like to blast the turkey with high heat
(425F) for 30 minutes and then reduce the
temperature, a low, steady temperature of
350F from start to finish is more carefree.
The high-heat method may shave 30 to
90minutes off the cooking time, but re-
membering to lower the temperature is one
more thing to worry about on a busy day.
Browning: Rub the turkey all over with
olive oil or melted clarified butter; this
helps the turkey to brown evenly. (You can
also use melted whole butter, but the milk
solids might make the turkey a little spot-
ted.) Sprinkle the turkey with kosher
IS YOUR BIRD BIG ENOUGH?
TURKEY WEIGHT AVERAGE SERVINGS AMPLE SERVINGS with leftovers
12 lb.
14 lb.
12
14
16 lb. 16
18 lb. 20
20 lb. 22
96 47<31==97<5=1B<=D %
TOOL
Keep the flavor,
salt (unless youve already brined it) to help
crisp the skin. lose the fat
To stuff or not to stuff: Far be it from us One way to separate liquid fat from
to mess with family tradition, but stuff- pan drippings is to let the liquid cool
ing the turkey means it takes longer to completely, then lift off the hardened
roast, and theres a greater risk that it will fat on top. If you use a fat separator,
cook unevenly. We prefer to bake stuffing which is basically a measuring cup
separately in a baking dish, which also gives with the spout attached to the bottom
the stuffing a nice crisp top. If you choose of the cup, theres no need to wait. Pour
to stuff the bird, do it loosely to give the all of the liquid into the separator, and
stuffing room to expand, and take the tem- the fat, which is lighter and less dense
perature of the stuffing as well as the bird than the juices, naturally floats to the
to determine if it is done roasting (170F top. This allows you to pour off the
in the thigh and 165F in the center of the juices, which are heavier and settle
stuffing). to the bottom of the cup. Use both to
Avoid scorching: If the bird is brown- make your gravy, if you like.
ing quickly but not near its target doneness
temperature of 170F, tent it loosely with
foil and continue roasting. If the drippings
seem to be getting too dark, add a couple of
tablespoons of water to the pan to keep them
from burning.
Let it rest: The intense heat of the oven
forces the juices into the center of the bird,
so after roasting, let the turkey rest for
roughly 20 minutes. The juices will redis-
tribute, and youll get moister slices.
TIP
8
9
Hold the twine
Dont truss your bird. It will take
10
longer to cook and will cook more
12
unevenly. If you feel you must truss,
14 leave the bindings loose.
Fo o d s t y l i n g b y D i a n a A n d r e w s ; b o t t o m l e f t b y R o n n e D a y. I l l u s t r a t i o n b y J a n e t S t e i n .
 TIP

Gravy math
Everyone loves gravy, so make sure you have plenty.
The chart below shows how to scale your favorite
recipe so that you have enough for about 13cup
gravy per person. As a general rule, use about 1Tbs.
of fat (such as butter or turkey fat from the roasting
pan) and about 1Tbs. of flour to make the roux to
thicken each cup of liquid (the combined volume
of liquids you use to make your gravy: stock, broth,
wine, water, and so on).

For 6 servings For 10 servings

TECHNIQUE
3 Tbs. flour 5 Tbs. flour
2 Tbs. fat 3 Tbs. fat
Just a bite 2 cups liquid 313 cups liquid
Want a taste of every dessert? Mini tarts let you do just
that. Experiment by miniaturizing your favorite pump-
For 8 servings For 12 servings
kin or pecan pie. The tart tamper shown above makes
4 Tbs. flour 6 Tbs. flour
quick work of lining a muffin tin with tart dough. Then fill,
2 Tbs. fat 4 Tbs. fat
and bake, adjusting baking time as necessary. 223 cups liquid 4 cups liquid

INGREDIENT

Dry, not stale, bread

for stuffing
Most stuffing recipes call for day-old bread.
What you really want is for the bread to be
a bit drier. This is easily achieved by lightly
toasting fresh bread cubes, which will also
add flavor to the stuffing.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 97
 T E S T K I TC H E N

The Poetry of Sea Salt

Fleur de Sel is an incredibly rare and
delicate sea salt crystal with the complexity
of a snowflake and nuanced whisper of the
sea. Under perfect conditions it blooms on
the sea surface in a few areas of the world,
most notably, Camargue, and is quickly
harvested before it disappears in a breeze.
The moist crystals have a subtle but profound
impact on taste buds; they are sprinkled on
food just before eating to elevate a dish from
a meal to a culinary experience. Le Saunier
de Camargue salt artisans are renowned
for managing our centuries-old salt beds
and harvesting the delicate crystals by hand
following time-proven ancient traditions.

TIP

Make-ahead
fruit pie
You may already know that you can
freeze pie dough, but how about freez-
ing the whole unbaked pie? A fruit pie
can be fully assembled and frozen for
up to a month. After assembling, put
the entire pie (pie pan and all) into a
loose-fitting plastic bag, tightly seal,
and freeze. Allow it to thaw in the
refrigerator a day before you plan to
bake it as directed.

98 47<31==97<5=1B<=D % Fo o d s t y l i n g b y D i a n a A n d r e w s
 Stress-free gravy
Delicious gravy is the unifying factor in the traditional Thanksgiving
meal. Its so important that leaving it to the last momentso that you can
incorporate the pan drippings from the birdcan be unnerving. Thats
why we love a make-ahead gravy, which is also good if you are roasting a
kosher or brined bird, as either may yield pan drippings too salty to use.
The gravy below can be held for up to three days in the refrigerator and is
delicious as is, but you can certainly add some pan juices to it.

RECIPE

make-ahead
mushroom gravy
The woodsy flavor of porcini mushrooms
makes this gravy something special.
Serves 12

oz. (cup) dried porcini mushrooms

1 2
Add the flour to the hot butter and cook,
stirring to combine.
3 4
Pour in the remaining stock or broth while
continuing to whisk.
Whisk in a portion of the stock or broth
while stirring vigorously to prevent lumps.
Stir in the chopped mushrooms, and
season to taste.
1 qt. turkey or chicken broth (see
web link below)
2 oz. (4Tbs.) unsalted butter
6 Tbs. all-purpose flour
2 to 3 sprigs fresh thyme
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice; more to taste
Kosher salt and freshly ground
black pepper
Soak the porcini in 1cup of very hot water until
soft, 10to 15minutes. Remove the porcini and
slowly pour the soaking liquid into the turkey
broth, leaving any sediment from the mush-
rooms behind; you should have about 4cups
combined liquid. Finely chop the porcini.
Heat the butter in a medium saucepan over
medium heat. Sprinkle the flour into the pan 1
and use a flat whisk or wooden spoon to combine it
with the butter. Cook, stirring, for about 2minutes.
Slowly pour cup 2 of the broth into the pan
while whisking vigorously to disperse the flour.
The liquid should thicken quickly. As soon as it
thickens, whisk in another cup broth. Repeat
until the gravy starts to look more like a smooth
sauce; then whisk in the remaining broth 3 and
bring to a simmer. Add the thyme and simmer
for 5minutes. Remove the thyme, and stir in the
chopped porcini 4 and lemon juice. Season to
taste with salt, pepper, and more lemon juice.
Find a recipe for Quick Turkey Giblet Broth
and other Thanksgiving tips and recipes at
FineCooking.com/Thanksgiving.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 99
 SOURCES

Vegetarian Holiday, p. 56
Yellow-eyed beans, $6 for a 1-lb. bag;
barryfarm.com; 419-741-0155.
Cranberry beans and other assorted
heirloom varieties, from $4.69 for a 1-lb.
11-oz. bag; bobsredmill.com; 800-349-
Make It Tonight, p. 39 2173; or a well-stocked supermarket.

Linked mini loaf pans, $21.99 for an

8-loaf pan; chicagometallicbakeware
.com.
Sumac, $14.95 for a 4-oz. jar; usimply Get Rolling, p. 80
season.com; 888-243-7770.
Medjool dates, Natural Delights Medjool
dates, from $17.99 for three 1-lb. contain-
ers; naturaldelights.com; Terrasoul Super-
foods Organic Medjool dates, $17.99 for a
2-lb. bag, amazon.com; Sunbest Medjool
dates, $11.49 for a 1-lb. bag, amazon.com.
Pierced white charger, $7 each or
$28 for a set of 4; D.K. Shulman Test Kitchen, p. 95
Design; 800-868-4300; dkschulman
design.com Tart tamper, $6,
surlatable.com, 800-243-0852.
Streusel Desserts, p. 86
Cacao nibs, $7.99 for a 6-oz. pouch;
scharffenberger.com; 855-972-0511;
or amazon.com.
Fennel, p. 64
Enamel dinner plates, Crow Canyon
Home, 10-inch diameter, $7.99 each; New
Preston Kitchen Goods; 860-868-1264.

Pork Chops, p. 70
Luxardo cherries, $19.99 for a 14-oz. jar;
williams-sonoma.com; 877-812-6235; or Demi-glace, $6.95 for a 1.5-oz. container;
a well-stocked supermarket. olivenation.com; 617-580-3667; or a well-
stocked supermarket.
Marcona almonds, $17.99 for a 1-lb. bag;
nuts.com; 800-558-6887; or a well-
stocked supermarket.

Three Ways With..., p. 34

r Medium slip bowl, $35; bantamtileworks
.com, 860-361-9306.

Sperlari Mostarda,
$14.54 for a 19.7-oz. jar;
amazon.com.
Long cake platter, Astier de Villatte,
$140, John Derian & Co., johnderian
.com, 212-677-3917.

100 47<31==97<5=1B<=D % Photographs by Scott Phillips

 NUTRITION
Calories Fat Cal Total Sat Fat Poly Fat Mono Chol Sodium Carb Fiber Sugar Protein
Recipe (kcal) (kcal) Fat (g) (g) (g) Fat (g) (mg) (mg) (g) (g) (g) (g)
LEFTOVER TURKEY, P. 34
Turkey and Ricotta Stuffed Shells 660 300 33 15 5 9 145 1190 50 5 10 41
Turkey, Escarole, and White Bean Soup wCroutons 980 270 30 13 3.5 11 125 1370 107 11 4 64
Turkey and Spinach Hand Pies 1310 830 93 18 46 24 115 1010 81 5 2 38
MAKE IT TONIGHT, P. 39
Sausages with Red Cabbage and Apples 580 420 47 17 4 23 95 1030 29 3 19 13
Pork, Lemongrass, and Noodle Stir-fry 350 150 17 5 4 6 50 830 32 1 4 17
Shaved Cucumber Salad 30 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 6 1 5 1
Pearl Couscous with Orange, Cranberries, and Almonds 210 70 8 2 1 4.5 5 65 30 3 6 6
French Potato Salad with White Wine and Tarragon 190 90 10 1.5 1 7 0 510 20 2 1 3
Mini Meatloaves Wrapped in Bacon 340 180 20 7 1.5 8 130 650 12 1 4 29
Chicken and Corn Chowder 550 330 37 22 2.5 10 130 410 37 4 7 23
Sweet and Spicy Tuna Tartines 520 250 27 4.5 13 5 40 2100 40 5 6 31
VEGETARIAN HOLIDAY, P. 56
Butternut Squash and Swiss Chard Lasagne 620 310 34 18 2 11 120 960 53 8 10 28
Heirloom Bean and Potato Cassoulet 630 260 29 6 3 19 10 470 78 20 6 19
Potato and Leek Galette with Rosemary and Sea-Salt Crust 400 230 26 14 1.5 8 80 580 34 2 3 8
FENNEL, P. 64
Mussels with Fennel and Fregola 500 280 32 10 3 17 50 730 33 4 7 16
Pasta with Roasted Fennel and Tomatoes 470 170 19 7 2 8 35 1030 57 8 9 19
Fennel Confit with Grilled Lamb 390 250 29 9 2.5 16 85 260 8 3 3 28
Shaved Fennel Salad wOranges, Black Olives, and Pistachios 240 140 16 2 2.5 11 0 410 22 6 13 4
PORK CHOPS, P. 70
Roast Pork Chops with Baby Artichokes and New Potatoes 780 390 44 15 4 21 165 540 36 5 5 62
Pork Chops Milanese 930 610 69 13 8 45 240 510 29 1 15 46
Seared Pork Chops with Watercress Mashed Potatoes 870 440 49 19 4 21 165 1520 43 4 2 54
Beer-Brined Pork Chops with Wild Mushroom Stuffing 840 530 59 21 5 29 160 760 25 3 5 49
POGACA ROLLS, P. 80
Pogaca Rolls 160 70 8 1 2 4.5 25 150 19 1 1 4
Thanksgiving-Style Sausage Pogaca 210 100 12 2.5 2.5 6 30 280 21 1 2 6
Feta and Fresh Parsley Pogaca 210 100 11 3 2.5 5 35 270 20 1 2 6
Spiced Date Butter Pogaca 270 130 14 4.5 2.5 6 40 150 33 2 13 5
Caramelized Apple and Golden Raisin Pogaca 230 70 8 1 2 4.5 25 150 37 1 18 4
STREUSEL, P. 86
Marcona Almond Streusel (per 2 Tbs.) 50 25 3 1.5 0 1 5 15 6 0 3 1
Cocoa Cardamom Streusel (per 2 Tbs.) 60 35 3.5 2.5 0 1 10 25 7 1 3 1
Coconut Macadamia Streusel (per 2 Tbs.) 50 30 3.5 2 0 1.5 5 20 4 0 2 0
Cranberry Streusel Muffins 290 120 13 4.5 4 4 35 130 39 2 20 4
Pear and Ginger Crisp 510 200 22 10 2.5 8 40 115 77 7 43 6
Raspberry Jam Bars 380 160 18 8 2 7 35 90 51 2 29 5
Streusel Coffee Cake 910 470 53 22 5 23 130 320 100 4 47 13
Chocolate Chip Oatmeal Streusel Cookies 190 80 9 5 0.5 3 25 95 25 1 14 2
Vanilla Ice Cream Streusel Sundaes wCandied Cherries 1240 760 85 48 6 26 310 280 104 4 38 18
TEST KITCHEN, P. 95
Make-Ahead Mushroom Gravy 60 40 4.5 2.5 0 1.5 10 150 4 0 0 1

The nutritional analyses have been calculated by a registered dietitian dients with measured amounts are included; ingredients without is used. When the quantities of salt and pepper arent specified, the
at Nutritional Solutions in Melville, New York. When a recipe gives a specific quantities are not. Analyses are per serving; when a range of analysis is based on tsp. salt and  1 8 tsp. pepper per serving for
choice of ingredients, the first choice is the one used. Optional ingre- ingredient amounts or servings is given, the smaller amount or portion entres, and 1 8 tsp. salt and 116 tsp. pepper per serving for side dishes.

F I N E C O O K I N G .C O M 101
 RECIPE INDEX
Cover Mini Meatloaves Wrapped Shaved Cucumber Salad................. 41
in Bacon .................................................42
Roast Pork Chops with Baby Shaved Fennel Salad with Oranges,
Artichokes and New Potatoes .......73 Pasta with Roasted Fennel and Black Olives, and Pistachios .......... 69
Tomatoes ............................................. 66
Salads, Soups Pork Chops Milanese ........................74 Desserts
& Breads Pork, Lemongrass, and Noodle
Chocolate Chip Oatmeal
Streusel Cookies ................................92
Caramelized Apple and Golden Stir-fry ................................................... 40
Raisin Pogaca.......................................85 Cocoa Cardamom Streusel .......... 88
Roast Pork Chops with Baby
Chicken and Corn Chowder .......... 46 Artichokes and New Potatoes .......73 Coconut Macadamia Streusel...... 88

Feta and Fresh Parsley Pogaca......85
French Potato Salad with White
Wine and Tarragon ............................. 41
Pogaca Rolls .........................................82
Shaved Cucumber Salad................. 41
Shaved Fennel Salad with Oranges,
Black Olives, and Pistachios .......... 69
Spiced Date Butter Pogaca ............85
Sausages with Red Cabbage Cranberry Streusel Muffins ............89
and Apples........................................... 40
Marcona Almond Streusel ............. 88
Seared Pork Chops with
Pear and Ginger Crisp ...................... 90
Watercress Mashed Potatoes .......76
Raspberry Jam Bars ......................... 90
Pasta
Streusel Coffee Cake ........................ 91
Butternut Squash and Swiss Chard
Lasagne .................................................59 Vanilla Ice Cream Streusel
Sundaes with Candied Cherries ...93
Mussels with Fennel and Fregola ..65

Thanksgiving-Style Sausage
Pasta with Roasted Fennel and Extras
Tomatoes ............................................. 66
Pogaca ...................................................85 Make-Ahead Mushroom Gravy .... 99
Pearl Couscous with Orange,
Turkey, Escarole, and White Bean
Cranberries, and Almonds .............. 41
Soup with Cheesy Croutons ..........36
Pork, Lemongrass, and Noodle
Seafood Stir-fry ................................................... 40

Mussels with Fennel and Fregola ..65 Turkey and Ricotta Stuffed Shells ..34
VEGETARIAN: May contain
Sweet and Spicy Tuna Tartines .... 48 Turkey, Escarole, and White Bean eggs and dairy ingredients
Soup with Cheesy Croutons ..........36
MAKE AHEAD: Can be
Poultry Meatless Mains
completely prepared
ahead (may need hands-
Chicken and Corn Chowder .......... 46 off cooking, baking, or
Butternut Squash and Swiss
reheating to serve)
Turkey and Ricotta Stuffed Shells ..34 Chard Lasagne ....................................59
QUICK: Under 30minutes
Turkey and Spinach Hand Pies.......36 Potato and Leek Galette with
Rosemary and Sea-Salt Crust .......63
Turkey, Escarole, and White Bean
Soup with Cheesy Croutons ..........36 Heirloom Bean and Potato
Cassoulet ............................................. 60
Beef, Pork
& Lamb Side Dishes
French Potato Salad with White
Beer-Brined Pork Chops with
Wine and Tarragon ............................. 41
Wild Mushroom Stuffing .................. 77
Pearl Couscous with Orange,
What to drink
Fennel Confit with Grilled Lamb ..67
Cranberries, and Almonds .............. 41
with whats in this issue
Select recipes in this issue
include pairings by our drinks editor,
Jill Silverman Hough.

102 47<31==97<5=1B<=D %

WELCOME TO THE TEA HOUSE.
PREMIUM ORGANIC TEA. EXQUISITE INGREDIENTS. EXTRAORDINARY TASTE.

Also available in these flavors: Fuji Apple & Ginger Valencia Orange Peel Wild Blackberry & Sage

2017 PURE LEAF and TEA HOUSE COLLECTION are trademarks of the Unilever Group of Companies used under license.
 Switch to GEICO and save money for the things you love.
Maybe its a serving of sturgeon roe. Or a few ounces of white truffle. Amazing food is what you
love and it doesnt come cheap. So switch to GEICO, because you could save 15% or more on car
insurance. And that would help make the things you love that much easier to get.

Auto Home Rent Cycle Boat

geico.com | 1-800-947-AUTO (2886) | local office
Some discounts, coverages, payment plans and features are not available in all states or all GEICO companies. Homeowners and renters coverages are written through non-afliated insurance companies and are
secured through the GEICO Insurance Agency, Inc. Boat and PWC coverages are underwritten by GEICO Marine Insurance Company. Motorcycle and ATV coverages are underwritten by GEICO Indemnity Company.
GEICO is a registered service mark of Government Employees Insurance Company, Washington, D.C. 20076; a Berkshire Hathaway Inc. subsidiary. 2017 GEICO