TOMATO A PRODUCTION GUIDE

ULTIMATE AGRICULTURAL ADVISORY & SOLUTIONS

DISCLAIMER
This document has been compiled by Ultimate Agricultural Advisory & Solutions and
every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and thoroughness of the information
contained herein, and all liability for any errors, omissions or inaccuracies in such
information and data, whether attributable to inadvertence or otherwise. Ultimate
Agricultural Advisory & Solutions therefore accepts no liability that can be incurred
resulting from the use of this information

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INTRODUCTION
Tomato is indigenous to the Peru and Equador region in South America and
it probably evolved from Lycopersicon esculentum var. cerasiforme, the cherry
form. However, it was domesticated and first cultivated in Central America
by early Indian civilizations of Mexico. The Spanish explorers introduced tomato
into Spain and it was later taken to Morocco, Turkey and Italy. In Italy
and France, it was termed love apple. It was widely believed that the tomato
was poisonous and its use as a food crop was only accepted in the 18th century.
Tomato is now one of the most popular and widely grown vegetables
around the world.
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CLIMATIC REQUIREMENTS TEMPERATURE

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TEMPERATURE
Tomato is a warm-season that is sensitive to frost.. An average daily mean of 20 to
24 optimum for growth, yield and fruit quality. Fruit set and quality are poor at
temperatures below 12 and above 35.
Hot, dry winds cause excessive flower drop while continuous moist, rainy conditions
result in the occurrence and spread of foliar diseases.
It is therefore recommended that tomatoes be grown in dry areas under irrigation.

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SOIL REQUIREMENTS .

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Tomato has given good results when grown in well-managed sandy loams
and heavy clay loams free of hardpan but best results are obtained in deep,
well-drained loams. The soil should be rich in organic matter and plant nutrients,
with a pH value of 6 to 7.

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 PROPAGATION
SOIL PREPARATION

CULTIVATION PRACTICES PLANTING

FERTILIZATION
IRRIGATION
WEED CONTROL
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PROPAGATION
Tomato is propagated from seed.

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SOIL PREPARATION
The soil should be well prepared, loose and in good tilth.

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PLANTING
Seedlings are raised in seedbeds and transplanted to the field. Transplanting
is preferable if hybrid seed is used, for early plantings and when producing for
the fresh market. Direct seeding is usually done if the crop is going to be
mechanically
harvested or processed. The seed are broadcasted on the beds
lightly covered with soil. Seedlings are usually ready for transplanting three to
four weeks after sowing and they should be transplanted on moist soil. The
seedbeds should be irrigated after sowing and it should be done regularly
until the seedlings reach a height of 5 to 7 cm

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FERTILIZATION
Tomato is a heavy feeder of plant nutrients including nitrogen, phosphorus
and potassium and it responds well to organic fertilizers. The amount of fertilizer
applied is influenced by fertility status of the soil, season and the cultivar.
The plants have a moderately high requirement of nitrogen. Nitrogen promotes
better growth and better flower and fruit set. A minimum of 250 kg per
hectare of nitrogen is recommended in high rainfall areas or for high production.
Approximately a quarter of nitrogen is applied at planting while the remainder is
applied in the first six to eight weeks of growth at two to three week
intervals. Further light dressings are applied over the next six or more weeks

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Tomato also requires high levels of potassium. Adequate levels of potassium
result in improved color, taste, firmness, sugars, acids and solids of the fruit.
Plant cells are also strengthened. A minimum of 100 kg of potassium should
be applied per hectare.
Phosphorus promotes root development, early flowering and fruit set and ensures
more vigorous growth. A total of 40 to 60 kg of phosphorus per hectare
is suggested in soils with a built-up of the nutrient. It is recommended that
phosphorus be banded in acid soils.
Tomatoes also require micronutrients for growth and development. Deficiencies
of magnesium, calcium, and molybdenum are common in acid soils while
boron and copper deficiencies are not often found in tomatoes. However, boron
deficiency, if it occurs, results in fruit cracking, pitted and corky areas,
deformed shape, malformation and uneven fruit ripening. Iron has been found
to be deficient on calcareous, alkaline soils or after heavy applications of lime.
Manganese deficiencies are mainly found in calcareous soils.

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IRRIGATION
Irrigation is critical in tomato production. It is important to supply sufficient water
at critical times, such as immediately after sowing or transplanting. Excess
irrigation after a long dry spell without prior light irrigation results in fruit cracking.
During the first four weeks apply 21 mm of water per week, for during the
following eight weeks (with 38 mm per week) Plants that are irrigated late in
the season produce watery fruits of poor quality. Sometimes it is best not to
use an overhead sprinkler irrigation system because wet leaves encourage
early and late blight.

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WEED CONTROL
Weeds can be controlled chemically or mechanically. Chemical weed control
can be used by applying registered chemicals. Mechanical cultivation should
be shallow and not too close to the plant; this will prevent damage to the
plants. Hand-hoeing is also practiced, especially with tomato production under
protection.

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TOMATO PESTS AND THEIR CONTROL

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NEMATODES
Tomato is attacked by various nematodes although the root-knot nematode is
the most prevalent. Attack by nematodes is more likely in sandy soils and during
warm conditions. They attack roots causing galls to develop and reduce
the size and efficiency of the root system. Stunting of plants, reduced fruit set
and yield and quality result from infestation. Plants also show drought symptoms
and may sometimes wilt and die even when moisture is adequate.

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CONTROL
Practice crop rotation
Proper sanitation is important (keep cultivated fields clean from
weeds and other foreign material that can serve as host for the killer pest).
Always destroy infected plants and away from the field.

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TOMATO FRUITWORM

Fruitworms feed on tomato leaves and fruit.

Distorted leaves often result when they feed upon
the tips of the leaves in the developing bud. Larvae
may also bore into stalks or midribs. When fruit is
present, larvae enter it soon after hatching. They
prefer green fruit and will enter it usually at the
stem end, causing extensive direct damage and
promoting decay. The larvae are cannibalistic, so
there is rarely more than one larva per fruit.
Larvae usually complete development in a single
fruit, but when fruits are small they may feed in
several.

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TOMATO FRUITWORM DAMAGE

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MANAGEMENT OF TOMATO FRUITWORM
Management of tomato fruitworm requires careful monitoring for eggs and small
larva. When control is needed, it is essential to treat before large numbers of larva
enter the fruit, where they are protected from sprays.
Check for natural predators before making spraying decisions.
Aim treatment sprays at newly hatched larva.

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POTATO APHID

Although tomato is attacked by several kinds of

aphids, the green peach aphid
(Myzus persicae) is the most prevalent. Severe
infestations under dry conditions may result in
premature die-back of plants.
Control: Crop rotation is essential.
Proper sanitation is important (keep cultivated
fields clean from
weeds and other foreign material that can serve as
host for the killer pest)
Always destroy infected plantsand throw them
away from the

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STINK BUGS & LEFT-
FOOTED BUGS
Stink bugs insert their snouts underneath tomato
skin. The enzyme they leave at the sting point turns
that area of tomato into liquid. The bugs then drink
the liquid.
Discolored areas appear on tomatoes where the
fluid is removed. They are often white, yellowish or
light green. Damage can appear knot like.
Control: excess foliage in the field and adjacent
areas so the bugs do not have

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STINK BUG DAMAGE

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HORNWORMS

Hornworms feed primarily on solanaceous plants

(those in the potato family).
Hornworms strip leaves from tomato vines. If a
heavy infestation develops, these caterpillars also
feed on developing fruit. Rather than bore into the
fruit, they feed on the surface leaving large, open
scars. Fruit damage, however, is much less common
than loss of leaves. Hornworm damage usually
begins to occur in midsummer and continues
throughout the remainder of the growing season.

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WHITEFLY

The eggs are whitish to light beige. They are

inserted on end in the undersides of new leaves.
Nymphs (immature stage) hatch from the eggs. The
nymphal stage appears glassy to opaque yellow.
Its body is flattened and scale-like with the edge of
the body relatively near the leaf surface. The pupa
or fourth nymphal instar will be somewhat darker
beige-yellow and opaque.

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Silverleaf whiteflies damage plants in two ways: directly and indirectly. Direct
damage results from their feeding activity, which involves them sucking plant sap.
Both the adults and nymphs contribute to direct damage. Chlorotic (yellow) spots
sometimes appear at the feeding sites on leaves. Heavy infestations cause leaf
wilting. In addition, as they feed they excrete honeydew (a sugary substance), which
the sooty mold fungi feed on. The resulting dark splotches on the leaves may reduce
photosynthesis and other physiological functions of the plant. Indirect damage results
from their activity as disease vectors (carriers). The silverleaf whitefly carries and
spreads several important viral diseases of tomatoes, lettuce etc.
Spray insecticidal treatments when numbers are high.

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SPIDERMITES
Generally a fine flecking or stippling is observed as
the mites feed on the foliage. The mesophyll layer (the
center layer) of the leaf collapses and the infested
area will become more pale or grayish. If large
amounts of webbing are found around the terminal
ends of upright branches, this is a sure sign of a heavy
spider mite infestation. Defoliation may also result from
a severe infestation.
Detection of spider mites for making treatment
decisions can be accomplished by viewing the
underside of leaves using at least a 10x lens. Another
detection method is to beat branches over a white
piece of paper. Dislodged spider mites can be seen as
little "specks" running around on the paper. The size of
the spider mite "specks" on the paper is about the
same size as the period at the end of this sentence.

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Control: Remove and dispose of any highly infested branches, or if severe, consider
plant replacement.
Horticultural oil sprays and insecticidal soap sprays are excellent, proven products for
spider mite control, are safe to use, and are especially good choices for sensitive
areas, such as where people are present soon after treatment. Because of their short
residual, oil and soap sprays help to conserve beneficial insect species. Spray the
plants thoroughly, so that the oil or soap spray drips or "runs off" from the upper and
under sides of leaves, twigs, and plant stems. It is best to spray horticultural oil or
insecticidal soap when the temperatures are between 45 and 85 degrees, and
always spray in the evening.

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TOMATO DISEASES AND THEIR CONTROL

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SEPTORIA LEAF SPOT
Septoria leaf spot is one of the most common tomato
plant leaf diseases. You can first detect this fungus as it
creates a small, circular spot with a grayish-white
center and dark edges. Small black spots may show up
in the center. Affected tomato plant leaves turn yellow,
wither, and fall off.
Long periods of warm, wet weather contribute to this
tomato plant disease, and splashing water spreads
spores to other leaves.

Control leaf spot by not crowding your tomatoes. Leave

enough space so air circulates and dries leaves.

Avoid overhead watering. When watering tomatoes,

water at the base of the plant. Also, water in the
morning so wet leaves have time to dry before
evening.

A fungicide formulated for tomatoes can be used to

treat affected plants.

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ANTHRACNOSE
Follow the same procedures used for septoria leaf
spot against the tomato plant disease anthracnose.
This fungus shows up as a small, circular, indented
area on tomato fruits. Eventually, rings surround the
original spot.

The flesh of the fruits may rot completely through,

especially on overripe tomatoes, so keep fruits
picked as they ripen.

Spores are spread by rain splash, and the fungus is

most common in warm, wet weather.

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FUSARIUM AND
VERTICILLIUM WILT
These tomato plant wilt diseases are caused by
fungi in the soil that enter through young roots, then
begin to plug the vessels that move water to the
roots and stems of the plants. Without water, the
plants begin to suffer from tomato wilt on sunny
days, although they appear to recover at night.
Tomato wilting may first appear in the top or lower
leaves of the plant, causing the, to lose color, then
die back from the tips. The process of tomato
wilting continues until the entire plant is affected.

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To avoid these tomato plant diseases, plant tomatoes bred for disease resistance.
Avoid overwatering tomato plants; just because a plant is wilted doesnt mean it
needs more water. Check the soil, if the soil is dry then water the plant.
If your tomato plants are affected by any of these tomato wilts, remove and destroy
all affected plants. Do not place them in your compost pile. Avoid using this location
for tomato, eggplant, potato and pepper. Corn and beans wont be affected.
Keep weeds out of all affected areas because their roots can continue feeding these
pathogens.

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EARLY BLIGHT

Another tomato plant disease fungus, Alternaria,

also causes leaf spot or early blight. Lower leaves
show brown or black spots with dark edges, almost
like a target. Stem ends of fruits may be attacked,
showing large, sunken black areas with concentric
rings.

This tomato plant disease fungus usually strikes

after plants set fruit.

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EARLY BLIGHT

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LATE BLIGHT

The tomato plant disease late blight, caused by the

fungusPhytophthora infestans, occurs during periods
of cool, rainy weather that may come at the end of
a growing season. It looks almost like frost damage
on leaves, causing irregular green-black splotches.
Fruits may have large, irregular-shape brown
blotches that quickly become rotten.

This tomato plant disease fungus also affects

potatoes and can be transferred from them.

Use the same controls as for septoria leaf spot.

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LATE BLIGHT

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ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS That may present themselves like
diseases.

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BLOSSOM END ROT

If your ripening fruit develop a dark spot at the

lower end, a spot that gradually widens and
deepens, youre looking at blossom-end rot. Its an
environmental problem most often caused by
uneven watering or by calcium deficiency. (These
can be related; uneven watering can interfere with
the uptake of calcium.) The simplest treatment is
therefore pre-treatment: make sure soil is rich in all
necessary nutrients (including calcium), and water
regularly. Mulches also help maintain even moisture
levels.

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CAT FACING

Cat faced tomato plants are deformed to a

greater or lesser extent, having deep grooves or
indentations running from the blossom end all the
way around to the stem. The condition results from
cool weather or insect damage while the plant is in
blossom. Tomato varieties with large fruit are most
susceptible and tomatoes are often
rendered inedible although considered safe to
it. To avoid the problem select resistant varieties
whenever possible.

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CRACKING

Several things can cause cracking in tomatoes. Cherry

tomatoes, especially small ones, frequently split at the
stem end, sometimes all the way to the blossom end,
and it does not indicate any sort of disease or
problem. The skin of a tomato becomes less resilient as
it matures, so the fruit often outgrows the skin. Pick
cherry tomatoes just before full ripeness to avoid this.
Circular splitting at the stem end, (concentric cracking)
or cracks running towards the stem (radial cracking)
usually result from a sudden increase in moisture after
a dry spell. Once again, the tomato fruit expands
beyond the skins ability to adapt. Keep soil evenly
moist to avoid this phenomenon.

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SUN SCALD

The tomatos skin will look bruised or leathery, the

skin sunken and puckered. It is essentially what it
sounds like, a sun-burn, tomato style, and it occurs
when fruit is too exposed during hot weather. This
problem primarily affects staked and trellised
tomatoes, which are more aggressively pruned than
are caged or free tomatoes. To prevent this
problem, be sure to leave adequate foliage on
plants when pruning. Reusable shade cloth can also
be used to protect tender vegetable plants. Once
sun scald has occurred, you cannot do anything for
affected fruit, but you can provide shade for the
unaffected ones.

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THE KEY TO A GOOD TOMATO CROP AND A GOOD TOMATO HARVEST IS GOOD
MANAGEMENT.
STAKE YOUR PLANTS EARLY, REGULARLY WALK THROUGH YOUR FIELDS TO SCOUT
FOR DISEASES AND PESTS.

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