I have ordered an injection kit for GY6 engines.

Its from Ecotrons in Detroit, USA. http://www.ecotrons.com

Information from Ecotrons homepage:

This fuel injection conversion kit can be used to convert many single cylinder carbureted small engines in the range
of 35cc to 300cc range. We have 24mm, 28mm and 34mm throttle bodies to cover the range. In many cases, this EFI
kit can be bolted on your engine and start your engine after the installation. Sometime you may need to do some
mechanical modifications to fit the throttle body, or the fuel return line. The good thing is that the kit has all the
parts to convert a carburetor engine and saves you efforts to source all individual parts. Furthermore, this kit can do
some self-tuning by running close-loop fueling with an O2 sensor. Our ECU has sophisticated self-learning software
which can automatically tune itself to run in stoicometric AFR (14.7) in variant operating conditions.
This kit previously is called "PNP" kit. But because different people have different understanding of "PNP". We now
removed the "PNP" in the title. As much as we try to make this kit as a bolt-on kit for some popular small engines,
like GY6 engines (50cc to 200cc), and 150cc monkey bikes, this kit requires some efforts to be installed correctly. PNP
may not apply to every engine, simply because of so many different engines out there. PNP may only apply to certain
GY6 engines, or 150cc monkey-bike engines. If you have modified your engine a lot (major custom parts), it may not
be applicable as PNP. In many cases, the user will need to do some basic tuning after correct installations.

28mm throttle body.

OK, lets start with the installation...

The new 28mm intake manifold from the GY6-motor.de is perfect for this !
The intake manifold is a little higher than normal, which means that the throttle body comes up a little from the
engine. Which is good, for the sensor contacts since they are mounted downwards towards the engine (see image
below).

Throttle body with the injector. The injector is the little black thing that is bolted on top of it. The little black plug
that is closest to the sensor is the TPS (throttle positioning sensor).
As you might've spotted the throttle body is a bit shorter than a carburetor!
The throttle body is to be fitted with injector and Map sensor on top, otherwise there is a risk that petrol could flow
into Map sensor.
On the throttle cable side of the throttle body I made the hole for the attachment of the throttle cable a bit wider
with a drill, a 8.5 mm drill is enough. I didn't have to cut the wire, the length was absolutely fine! I plugged the
vacuum connection on the intake manifold.

Here's the temperature sensor mounted with one of the bolts to the valve cover.
The temperature sensor for the intake air is just stuck into the air filter.
The injector connector is mounted.
The map sensor is attached to the intake with the hose in front of the injector.
The contact to the TPS is also attached.

So far, you shouldn't be able do anything wrong!

The next step is to fix the connection for the fuel return hose .

I took the tank off and emptied it from petrol and drilled a 9.5mm hole.
After that I could screw down the supplied nipple. Mixed a little JB Weld and sealed everything.
This injection system does not work with the vacuum operated fuel tap! So I mount this nipple to the tank instead
and the included fuel filter before the fuel pump.

Here you can see the assembly of the petrol pump and the power supply cables for the pump runs along the gasoline
hose. Luckily, the pump is very small and it makes it easier to find a suitable place for it. The pump and pressure
regulator will be completely hidden when the saddle and seat tray is in place. They are also protected from dirt and
moisture.

Now it's time to mount the Lambda sensor .

The sensor should be mounted in an angel upwards. This is so that it doesnt get ruined by any condensation.

It's a pretty big hole that needs to be drilled into the exhaust header, 18 -19mm for the sensor to fit .

This is how it looks like with bung for the Lambda sensor welded on the original exhaust header.

The bung for the Lambda sensor should be welded to the exhaust header approximately 2 -5 inches from the
exhaust port for it to be properly heated by the exhaust gases and also so it doesn't get too hot.
Measure carefully where you want to drill the hole in the header so it doesn't hit anything. Make sure that the
sensor does not hit any part of the scooter and so that you get the right angle before welding it .
Mark the whole out on the header and then drill an 18mm hole. The exhaust gases should flow in front of and
around the sensors tip. The sensor should not be mounted so far into the manifold that it affects the flow of exhaust
gases too much.

Now it's time to plug in the electronics

The white wire labeled COIL should be connected to the black connector on the ignition coil.
The green connector is already connected to ground so it is not necessary to connected it to the battery if you don't
want too. But make sure that the green connector is grounded first!

The orange wire marked CKP is to be connected to the pick-up signal cable. On my engine the signal cable was Blue-
White, I believe that it is true for most GY6 engines. Disconnect it at the quick connector and connect the orange
CKP cable instead on the pick-up signal cable.

On the new wiring harness, there are contacts for the CDI, plug in the supplied CDI on those contacts. You should
disconnect your old CDI from the original harness, tape the contacts so they are somewhat protected.
I extended some wires on the new harness and mounted the control light next to the speedometer. This lamp lights
up if something is wrong in all connections or electronics. It goes off again when the error is corrected.

I change the "Performance button" to this model and mounted it on a much smoother place rather than having it in
the saddle box. There is a small light in the button that lights up when I switch over from "ECO" to "RICH" mode.

This system needs to have a power cable that is connected to the ignition key and should only have power when you
turned the key to the "ON" position. I suggest you splices cable that goes from the horn to the pink wire marked
"KEY SW". That cable should be feed with +12V when the ignition key is turned to "ON". Check with a multi meter!

After that, connect your +12V wire from the new harness to the battery + terminal.
Connect the black ground cable to the battery - terminal.

Connect the ECU (control unit) to the designated connector on the harness.
Heres the ECU, relay and the computer connector neatly tucked away in the saddle box.

Now, you check that everything is properly connected at least twice!

If everything is right, do the following:
Turn the ignition key to ON, nothing else !
If everything is correct, the fuel pump should start and run for two or three seconds and then stop.
If that happened, it indicates that the ECU has control of the fuel pump and that everything is properly wired.
If anything else happens, it indicates that there is a problem with wiring or that it could be a problem with the ECU.

If nothing happens or if the fuel pump continues to run, turn off the ignition and check the manual for
troubleshooting.

If the fuel pump is working as it should, fill up the tank with petrol and turn the ignition key to the operation mode ,
check so that the fuel reaches the injector. There may be air in the fuel system, so repeat this 3 times. Hopefully you
will get rid of all the air in the system.
Try to start the engine. Remember that there may still be some air in the system, so do not be surprised if it takes a
while to get the engine running.
When it starts it can have a pretty rough idle. Allow the engine to idle until the engine warms up , the controller
needs time to adjust.
When idling has stabilized you can take the scooter for a run so that the ECU tunes itself further. Keep a constant
throttle for a while so that the ECU can adjust itself, then select a different throttle and hold it for a while again.
Continue through the entire throttle registry so the ECU will have the chance to tune itself as much as possible.

Once that is done you can try some fast acceleration and other conditions for the system to get as much information
as possible. It can take quite some time for the system to adjust itself so do not be surprised if you feel that it can
feel a bit jerky at times.

NOTE:
If you cannot get to a proper idle when you started the engine the first time, it might be a good idea to unscrew the
lambda sensor and first make sure you get a proper idle. When you have that you can mount the sensor back on
again so that the ECU can start with its fine tuning.

For further information and to order this kit , please refer to Ecotrons Homepage
Support from Ecotrons is fantastic and fast !
FIRST TEST:
I've done the first test. Turned the ignition on and the fuel pump reacts as it should, it runs for a few seconds and
then stop.
I hooked up the computer to the controller just to see if it works ...
The laptop runs with Win XP and when I plugged in the USB adapter in the computer, the computer directly knew
what it was and installed the drivers.
Started the ProCal -program and got an error of non-matching files.
The ECU is pre-programmed with the information you supplied when you ordered the EFI kit, and copies of these
files should also be on the disc they send with. Copied over the files from the disc to the program and restarted the
program and everything worked!
In the ProCal-program I chose Connect. Now I could clearly see the meters change when I twisted the throttle and
when I pressed the starter button. All the sensors that were connected worked in the program.
I checked around in the program and there are lots of good things you can tune. For example, you can set idling
speed (only applies to the 34 mm throttle body), you can set the timing of the ignition, the maximum rpm and a lot
of other fun stuff and some almost incomprehensible as well. The program may take a while to get into but if you
read the help function it get a bit clearer how and what to do.

Must say it is pretty damn nice to be able to tune your engine sitting on the couch and then just go down to the
scooter and shoot over a new version of the mapping.
You want get your hands so dirty playing on the keyboard.
So far, it is double thumbs up for this kit!

Now there is a little water sensitive electronics where the carburetor was earlier. So I want to protect it a little bit
extra and made a new inner splash guard from a piece of rubber.
Comments on this Kit:
Some of the wires on the wiring harness could be a bit longer. That would avoid splicing them and it would give a bit
more freedom when it comes to the montage of electronics.
I have extended the wires to the battery, the control light, performance button, cables to the ignition coil and the
CKP-cable.
A good idea when you order is to order extra bungs/holder for the oxygen sensor. It is helpful to have several of
them when you need to change the header or the entire exhaust system.

Connection of Ecotrons Bluetooth adapter:

Bluetooth adapter is uses so you can easily log the ECU when you ride your bike.
A lot better than having a laptop in your knee when you are out riding.
Then you have the recorded files from the ECU available in the phone and can send an email to Ecotrons
for further tuning or support.

Wiring is not at all difficult.

There are only two wires which is connected to the battery + terminal and terminal

I only need to have the adapter mounted when I log the ECU so I mounted quick connectors on those
cables.

The adapter is connected to the same contact as your laptop.

Install the Ecotrons software for the Android phone.
When you turn on the ignition there is a small light on the Bluetooth adapter that tell you if everything is
ok.
Turn on Bluetooth on your phone and search for a new Bluetooth device.
You should find a device named "Ecotrons 1.0" pair your phone with that device.
Then just follow the manual...

For more information and to order this kit please refer to the Ecotrons website
Support from Ecotrons is amazing, good and quick replies!