EAGLET by KIEL KARFT

BUILDING and FLYING INSTRUCTIONS

Cut out all the sheet balsa parts carefully using a modeling knife with a sharp (preferably a new blade. They are
all marked with code letters and numbers. Put all these parts where they will not get lost-IE in the box lid and pick
them out as required. Pin the plan down flat over a building board soft enough to take pins being pinned into it.
Cover the plan with a sheet of polythane to prevent parts sticking to it when building the fuselage frame, wings,
tail-plane, and fin.

FUSELAGE

Pin down parts Fl to F6 directly over the side view of the fuselage cementing together where necessary. Pin
down F7 and part P In their correct positions. Then lay down the two 3/32" (2.5mm) sq. longerons positioning
pins each side, not through the longerons. Cut the other frame members to length from 3/32" (2.5mm) sq. balsa
strip and cement in position to complete a fuselage side frame - Sketch 1.

Now build a second fuselage frame directly over the first one. When all joints are set, remove from the plan and
separate the two carefully by running a sharp knife blade between them.
Bend the under carriage to the shape shown on the plan, using the wire included in kit. Sand and cement to
former I. The two side frames can now be joined assembly true and square upside down by cementing Former 1
and Former 2 in place - Sketch 2.

Note that both these formers are assembled at an angle (see plan). Be sure to get this assembly true and
square.
Join the side frames at the nose with parts F8 (top and bottom) holding in place with a rubber band. Pull in the
rear and cement together, using a rubber band or pins to hold until set - Sketch 3.
 Then cut the cross braces to length from 3/32" (2.5mm sq strip) measured off the Fuselage Top View and
cement in place. Finally cement on Formers S1, S2, S3, S4, and S5 and add the nose stringers which run between
them.

Taper the two wing spars as shown on the plan, put the inner ends at an angle and pin down flat on the plan.
Cement on part D1 and leave to set. Remove and cement the other D1 part in place.
Build the left wing first. Pin the trailing edge and pin parts W8, W7, and W6 down on the plan, Pin the main spar
in position blocking up with scrap pieces of 1/24" (1mm) sheet to raise above the surface of the plan. Cement all
the ribs in place and then the leading edge -see Sketch4.

When set, remove from the plan and pin the spar down in a similar manner over the right wing plan. Pin down
trailing edge and tip parts and complete the assembly of the right wing. Finally cement on the trailing edge brace
D2, rib W1 and the two gussets at the leading edge, cut from scrap sheet.

Pin down parts T5, T6, and T7 over the tail plane plan also the main spar and leading edge. Cement on all the
ribs and finally the two gussets on either side of T1 at the leading edge. When set, remove from plan and sand
trailing edge to a wedge shape. Also round off the tips and leading edge. Cover with tissue then cement part K on
the underside at the center. (This is better done after water shrinking and doping the tail plane covering - see
Sketch 5.

The fin is built flat on the plan, pinning down parts

R1, R2, R3, and R4 and the 3/32" (2.5mm sq) leading
edge. Then cut and fit in the 3/32" (2.5mm) square ribs
add R5. All joints must be cemented. See Sketch 6.
 Remove from the plan and taper the leading edge equally with sandpaper,
round the tips and leading edge. Tissue cover the fin on both sides.

COVERING

Cover the fuselage using separate tissue pieces for each side and the top
and bottom. The rounded top front of the fuselage should be covered in two
or three separate strips. Water shrink the tissue and when quite dry, give two
coats of clear dope. Cement on the windscreen. Then pierce holes for, and fit the two dowels which hold the
wing-retaining rubber bands. Cement these dowels in position.
Details for making the nose-block and completing the propeller assembly are shown on the plan. Note that the
hole in the nose-block to take the plastic bush should be drilled at a slight downward angle. This bush is
cemented to the nose-block
Bend the front of the propeller shaft first. Add prop and washer, then pass through nose-block and complete
the rubber motor hook. Cover this hook with plastic tubing.

FLYING THE EAGLET

For the motor you need 8 ft (2.44 meter) of 3/16" (5mm) strip rubber knotted together and folded twice to give 8
strands. Loop onto the prop shaft hook, pull through the fuselage with a length of string, and secure at the rear
with the dowel passing through parts P in the fuselage sides.
Both the wing and tail are held in place on the fuselage with rubber bands. Check for flying trim by seeing how
the model glides. Add weight is positioned inside the nose if it stalls. If is dives, add a thin packing piece under
the trailing edge of the tail plane. Now try flying under power, using 50-100 turns on the motor. If it shows any
tendency to stall, add a thin packing piece between the nose-block and front former to tilt the thrust line
downwards (IE add more down-thrust)

©COPYRIGHT KEILKRAFT LTD, COMMERCE WAY, LANCING, SUSSEX, ENGLAND