Professional Documents
Culture Documents
hong kong
A T R A V E l l e r ’ s G U I D E
contents
contents
06
highlights
20
nitty gritty
48
dining
Our hand-picked Transport, money, From cheap local meals
selection of contacts – all the to upscale French
Hong Kong’s best important things you feasts, dining for all
experiences need to know budgets and tastes
16
events calendar
24
attractions
76
shopping
A calendar chock-full The striking sights Street markets,
of important events, that make Hong Kong mega malls, indie
with something for such a rich place stores, and everything
everyone to visit in between
contents
CM
MY
CY
98
sports & outdoors
128
arts & entertainment
167
Itineraries
CMY
116
living culture
144
nightlife
170
maps
From Chinese Neon-lit streets come Never get lost in
traditions to colonial alive at night, through this incredible
pastimes, culture as our many bars city with our
a living entity and clubs easy-to-use maps
welcome
Big Buddha
Watching over Hong Kong like a god
Bar Districts incarnate, the Tian Tan Buddha is a stunning
statue that stands 34 metres high. Ride the
Party the night away at Hong Kong’s
many bar disticts. From Lan Kwai Fong & SoHo’s cable car to reach it, and stop for lunch at nearby
party central to Wan Chai’s rowdy crowds, Po Lin Monastery (p26).
Knutsford Terrace’s chilled lounges to local
favourite Tung Choi Street (p146-147).
Dim Sum
Dim sum: not only Hong
Kong’s breakfast staple, but a
peek at our many societal rungs.
Crack-of-dawn alongside the
working classes at Lin Heung
Tea House (p52); rubbing
shoulders with all-day crowds
at Luk Yu Tea House (p52), and
then dishing out tycoon-style at
Lung King Heen (p69).
Hiking
Over 70 per cent of Hong Kong is green spaces, so
strap on your boots and hit the trails. See stunning views
on the Dragon’s Back (p104), catch Lantau Island’s greatest
hits at the Shek Pik Country Trail (p105), and experience
everything from monkeys to war tunnels
on the MacLehose Trail (p105).
Horse Races
Go casual at the Wednesday evening races in
Happy Valley, or don an Ascot for the weekend races
in Sha Tin (p120). Horse racing is an essential part of
Hong Kong culture, a pastime dating back 150 years.
The Peak
Hong Kong Island’s highest point, with
stunning panoramic views of the city below, best
seen at night. Ride the century-old Peak Tram
(p27) to reach it, or go for a green approach
following the stunning Morning Trail.
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The Skyline
Our picture-postcard panorama, a striking mix
of towering structures and shimmering lights. Catch
dual-harbour views on the Star Ferry (p31), soak it in
strolling on the Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade (p29), and
then gaze out drink-in-hand from Aqua (p156).
Theme Parks
Hong Kong’s theme parks
are all-age playgrounds, fit for the
whole clan. Ocean Park (p38) is
proudly home-grown, balancing
hair-raising rides with animal
enclosures, while Hong Kong
Disneyland (p36) is the ideal
weekend family getaway.
Street
Markets
Hit the streets and shop at our
many outdoor markets. Cat
Street (p78) and Temple Street
(p80) are antique and vintage
favourites, while Ladies’ Market
(p79), Stanley Market (p80)
and the Central lanes (p79) all
sell everything from branded
clothing to bric-a-brac.
14 best in hong kong A Traveller’s Guide 15
events calendar
01
jan
Hong Kong New Year Countdown Celebration
As the clock strikes 12 and New Year comes a-calling,
Victoria Harbour lights up in an epic display of music and
fireworks. Watch it by the shore, head out to sea or zoom
04
apr
Hong Kong Sevens
(p114)
06
jun
Hong Kong Dragon Boat
Carnival (p112)
Dragon Boat Water Parade
up a skyscraper to catch it in the clouds. of Tai O (p119)
05
may
Birthday
of Tin Hau
Cheung
Chau Bun
Festival
(p118)
Birthday
of Buddha
02
feb
Hong Kong Chinese
New Year (p118)
ong Kong International
H
03
mar
07 Hong Kong
Summer Fun
When the heat
Chinese New Year Night jul turns up, an array
of showcases take
Parade (p118)
& place all across the
city. Catch music
09
sep
Mid-Autumn Festival
(p119)
10
oct
Hong Kong Wine & Dine
Festival
Food, drink and entertainment
on Central’s harbourfront.
Hong Kong Cyclothon
Cyclothon sees amateurs
and professionals riding
through the city.
Halloween
Hong Kong Tennis Open
(p114)
11
nov
Hong Kong Great November Feast
The Great November Feast is a month filled
with epicurean events, fairs and offers. 12
dec
Hong Kong
WinterFest
The best of
Christmas and
Hong Kong Great Outdoors New Year, in
Take to the hills and explore the great one month-long event.
outdoors, by seeking out hikes, beaches
and islands. Hong Kong Pulse
Light Show
Clockenflap, Hong Kong’s An audiovisual showcase
Music & Art Festival (p135) that illuminates the Tsim
Hong Kong Open Sha Tsui skyline.
(p113) FIA Formula E Hong
Kong E-Prix (p112)
Taxi Tram
Taxis are Street trams travel
cheap and can between the east and
be spotted west points of Hong
nearly everywhere. Red taxis operate Kong Island. The Peak
all across the city. Green ones are for Tram, meanwhile,
New Territories. Blue are for Lantau is really a funicular
Island. Red taxi flag-fall is HK$24, that scales up to the
and each piece of luggage carried island’s highest viewing point.
costs HK$6.
Ferry
Bus Most ferries can be taken from
Buses operate all across Hong Central Pier, including the Star Ferry
Kong. Double-decker buses are to Kowloon, as well as Outlying
most frequent, and are hailed at Island ferries to Cheung Chau,
designated stops. Minibuses are Lamma Island and Lantau Island.
harder to navigate: green ones have Other piers include Wan Chai, North
set paths and stops, but red ones Point, Aberdeen, Stanley, Hung
follow whatever route is quickest. Hom, Kowloon City and Sai Kung.
CANTONESE PHRASES
You’ll have no problem only using
English in Hong Kong – but trying
out a bit of Cantonese will endear
you with the locals. Here are some
USEFUL useful basic phrases to get started.
NUMBERS
Good morning: 早晨 (zou san)
Emergency Services 999 Hello: 你好 (nei hou)
Police Hotline +852 2527 7177 Thank you: 唔該 (ng goi)
Telephone Directory Enquiries1081 How are you?: 你好嗎?(nei hou maa)
Weather Information Excuse me: 唔好意思 (ng hou yi si)
(Hong Kong Observatory) +852 1878 200 Marvellous!:好犀利!(hou sai lei)
Hong Kong Tourism Board Why?: 點解?(dim gaai)
Visitor Hotline +852 2508 1234
How much?: 幾多錢?(gei do cin)
Hong Kong Immigration
Department +852 2824 6111 Delicious!: 好好味!(hou hou mei)
Hong Kong International The bill, please: 唔該埋單
Airport +852 2181 8888 (ng goi maai daan)
The Big Buddha & Po Lin Monastery DukLing Harbour The Peak
Erected in 1993, the enormous Tian Tan Buddha is one of the
symbols of Hong Kong, a 34-metre-high statue that took a
Cruise The Peak is Hong Kong Island’s
highest point and a must-see site.
dozen years to complete and now watches over the many Hong Kong’s harbour views are The 360-views are stunning, with
people of our city. It’s a must-see, and make sure to drop unrivalled, stunning skylines set sweeping vistas of the entire city
into nearby Po Lin Monastery, a sacred Buddhist sanctum. against the surrounding waters. The below. Here, you’ll see visitors from
Alongside rich histories and gorgeous gardens, it has a best way to take it in is on a cruise, around the world jostling for selfies
delicious vegetarian restaurant open to the public. but instead of the standard tourist from the anvil-shaped Peak Tower.
boat, book a ride aboard DukLing, Next door, Peak Galleria mall offers
1 Address: The Big Buddha & Po Lin Monastery, Ngong Ping, Lantau an ancient Chinese fishing vessel an array of shopping and dining
Island (MTR Tung Chung Station, Exit B, then Ngong Ping Cable Car) complete with wooden decks and options, plus a viewing terrace with
classic red sails. DukLing makes free entry. Most summit-seekers
regular sailings throughout the day, hop on the century-old Peak
but we recommend catching one Tram, scaling steep inclines from
of the sunset trips, or better yet, Central’s base. But for a more green
its special Symphony of Lights approach, snake your way from
cruise, which is timed with the Hatton Road along the Morning
nightly show. Trail, an enjoyable hiking path.
The Peak
Chungking Mansions
Known as the ‘ghetto in the city’,
Chungking Mansions is where many
of Hong Kong’s minorities gather.
If you can ignore the touts trying to
flog fake watches and cheap suits,
you’re offered a truly immersive
experience. Tuck in to the most
affordable South Asian cuisine in
town and treat yourself to a glass
of Nepalese rum. Pick up a piece of
Indian clothing, or just wander its
corridors for bargains.
Bird Garden & Hong Kong Disneyland Madame Tussauds Ngong Ping 360
Flower Market The house that the Mouse built,
Hong Kong Disneyland is a place
See all your favourite stars recreated
in wax at Madame Tussauds. Set
Start your journey into Lantau
Island at Ngong Ping 360. Hop
Wake up early to take in Yuen Po where dreams come true. From high on The Peak, the museum aboard the Crystal Cabin, a glass-
Street (Bird Garden), a bustling street mystical manors to the futuristic features over 100 lifelike recreations bottomed cable car that offers
filled with all manner of winged Tomorrowland, classic fairy tale rides of the world’s greatest celebrities sweeping 360-views all across the
creatures. Just as the sun rises, avian to Wild West thrills, the park offers and icons, from the Queen of island, from dense foliage through
pet lovers holding wooden cages something for everyone, and is now England to Michael Jackson. to its gorgeous surrounding waters.
chat with fellow owners. On the next fully expanded with your favourite Whole sections are also dedicated You then arrive at Ngong Ping
block is Flower Market Road, which Marvel and Star Wars characters to Asian names, including Bruce Lee Village, a retro-inspired tourist town
is dedicated solely to flora. At 10am, on board. Spend your day on rides and Jackie Chan, while its souvenir with plenty of shopping and dining
the street erupts in an assortment of galore, and then stay the night at its shop lets you take some frozen options. And from there, it’s just a
bright colours and beautiful smells. family-friendly resort. stardust home. short five-minute walk to Lantau
Island’s best sights, including The
12 Address: Bird Garden, Yuen Po Street, 13 Address: Hong Kong Disneyland, 14 Address: Madame Tussauds, Shop Big Buddha and Po Lin Monastery.
Prince Edward, Kowloon (MTR Prince Lantau Island (MTR Disneyland P101, The Peak Tower, 128 Peak Road,
Edward Station, Exit B1); Flower Resort Station) The Peak, Hong Kong Island (MTR 15 Address: Ngong Ping 360, Ngong
Market, Flower Market Road, Prince Website: hongkongdisneyland.com Central Station, Exit J2 to Peak Tram) Ping, Lantau Island (MTR Tung Chung
Edward, Kowloon (MTR Prince Edward Website: madametussauds.com Station, Exit B)
Station, Exit B1) Website: np360.com.hk
Noah’s Ark on Ma Wan Island Ocean Park isn’t just for the little
recreates the biblical vessel that ones, with plenty to enjoy for
is said to have saved civilisation. thrill seekers of all ages. Marvel at
The park is designed to appeal to underwater oddities in the massive
all ages, with stunning Tsing Ma aquarium. See foxes, sea lions and
Bridge views from the replica ark, pandas in its many enclosures. And
multimedia presentations let the adrenaline flow through
in the expo, animal sculptures in thrilling rides all across the park,
the gardens and lessons among from raging rivers to rollercoasters.
the many education halls and Weekends are often packed, so
exhibition spaces. drop in on a school day to beat
the queues.
16 Address: Noah’s Ark, 33 Pak Yan
Road, Ma Wan, New Territories, 17 Address: Ocean Park Hong Kong, Wong
3411 8888 (Central Pier 2) Chuk Hang, Hong Kong Island, 3923
Website: noahsark.com.hk 2323 (MTR Ocean Park Station, Exit B)
Website: oceanpark.com.hk
sky100
Hong Kong’s tallest building, the
118-floor International Commerce
Centre towers over the Kowloon
skyline. One of the best ways
to experience it is at sky100, an
observation deck on the 100th
floor with 360-degree vistas of
the entire cityscape. Interactive
exhibitions also dig into the history
of Hong Kong, while a photo booth
uses augmented reality to create
cool backdrops.
evolution of a skyline
As the architect behind such iconic structures as Central Plaza and
the Convention and Exhibition Centre, Dennis Lau has played a large
part in defining Hong Kong’s skyline. Here, he gives us a panoramic
rundown of some of the city’s key skyscrapers, from still-standing ‘70s
structures to contemporary super high-rises.
Walled Village
Hong Kong was once defined by
DISCOVER MORE
The Kowloon Walled City might
be long gone, but you can still
Man Mo Temple
its walled villages, and while the In one of Hong Kong’s hippest areas
catch glimpses of it in such classic
borders of the past have been largely movies as Jean-Claude Van
sits Man Mo Temple, a stunning
removed, remnants still exist on the Damme’s Bloodsport and Jackie tribute to the Gods of Literature
city’s fringes. Kat Hing Wai is one of Chan’s Crime Story. (Man) and War (Mo). Built in 1847,
the last remaining, a 500-year-old it was once a place of arbitration,
walled village still inhabited by the but now stands as a striking
descendants of its founders. An age- worship hall – a smoky assortment
old guardhouse and moat welcome of massive incense coils, red-and-
you within its walls, while narrow gold thatched staircases, ancient
alleyways and ancient abodes offer sedan chairs, as well as altars to its
up slices of the area’s history. Buddhist and Taoist deities.
19 Address: Kat Hing Wai Walled Village, 21 Address: Man Mo Temple, 124-126
Kam Tin, Yuen Long, New Territories Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong
(MTR Kam Sheung Road Station, Kong Island (MTR Sheung Wan
Exit B) Station, Exit A2)
Man Mo Temple
Ping Shan Wong Tai Sin Temple Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware
Heritage Trail Known in full as the Sik Sik Yuen
Wong Tai Sin Temple, this ancient
Explore the history of one of Hong Kong’s great exports, tea,
at Flagstaff House. Once the abode of Hong Kong’s British
Take a walk on the historic side, with house of worship is said to hold a forces commander, the residence was converted into its current
the Ping Shan Heritage Trail. Grouping sacred portrait of the namesake museum setting in 1984, with a focus on the history and culture
a number of Hong Kong’s dynastic monk deity. It sees visitors come of tea. It’s a rainy day favourite, with permanent exhibitions
sites, the 1.6 km trail starts at the Tsui from far and wide for its promise focusing on tea ware, while ever-revolving showcases dig deep
Sing Lau pagoda, a 600-year-old to ‘make every wish come true into historic relics. There are also regular activities, including
guard post, before winding through a upon request’. But you don’t have flower arranging, classical music performances and of course,
200-year-old walled village, Sheung to be a true believer to appreciate tea tastings.
Cheung Wai. You’ll then come across its impressive display of feng shui
the ancient temples of Yeung Hau in action, with the five elements 24 Address: Flagstaff House, Hong Kong Park, 10 Cotton
and Hung Shing, before experiencing spread across its pavilion, hall, Tree Drive, Central, Hong Kong Island (MTR Admiralty
the stunning halls of Tang, Yu Kiu fountain, wall and shrine. Station, Exit C1)
and Kun Ting. Finish up at a former
colonial police station, converted into 23 Address: Wong Tai Sin Temple, 2 Chuk
a gallery and visitor centre. Yuen Village, Wong Tai Sin, Kowloon
(MTR Wong Tai Sin Station, Exit B2)
22 Address: Ping Shan Heritage Trail,
Ping Shan, Yuen Long, New Territories
(MTR Tin Shui Wai Station, Exit E)
1
to make the morsels, and how they’ve changed as the city has evolved.
VEGETABLE DUMPLINGS
Traditionally, it’s a thin-skin
wrapping, surrounding
all sorts of vegetables
and fungus. We mix it up,
though: we shape them as
triangles, we sometimes
use carrot or spinach
4
XIAO LONG BAO
Xiao long bao are pork
dumplings filled with
juice to add colour soup. They’re very thin-
to the skin. skinned, and are difficult
to eat because they often
burst when picked up with
2
chopsticks. So I created
individual mini-bamboo
baskets, so that they’re
easier to handle. And
since they’re originally
from Shanghai, I give
them a Hong Kong
HAR GOW touch, by adding some
When I started out in scallops or crab meat.
the 1950s, there weren’t
many dim sum choices.
3
It was all very traditional,
just the standards. Har
5
gow is one of the oldest,
a simple blend of shrimp SIU MAI
in thin-skin wrapping. Siu mai is also very traditional, it’s a pork
But it’s what you put and shrimp dumpling, and is often seen CHAR SIU BAO
inside that matters, as a very ‘working class’ type of dim sum. Char siu bao (barbecue pork bun) is old-school favourite.
and I use different Because of that, it can sometimes be quite Traditionally, it’s roast pork in a fluffy bun – but I came up
combinations: goji basic. At my restaurant, I change it up, with the idea to blend it with the classic pineapple bun,
berries, crab meat, sometimes adding caviar or maybe some so the outer crust is crunchy and sweet, and the inner is
dried scallops. Yunnan ham. soft and juicy. A lot of restaurants do it that way now, too.
dining [ china calling ]
The name’s a misleading one, but Xiao long bao – those wonderful
there’s history behind it, its moniker dumplings from Shanghai, delicate
an attempt to lure World War II- and thin-skinned, but filled to the
stationed G.I.’s into its establishment. brim with soupy goodness. Making
American Restaurant actually serves them is a real art and despite
Beijing cuisine, and has done so for originally being from Taiwan, the
over 70 years. It’s a rowdy, affordable Din Tai Fung chain has all but
affair where Peking duck is served mastered it. Order a basket per
tableside and everything on the menu person as soon as you enter (yes,
is decent. It’s not the best of its kind, they’re that good) and make sure
and true Peking Duck connoisseurs to match it with their many other
should instead visit Spring Deer, an specialities: green beans with pork,
age-old Kowloon favourite. sautéed shrimp and hot & sour
soup, among them.
16 Address: a) American Restaurant, 20
Lockhart Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong 17 Address: Various locations, including
Island, 2527 1000 (MTR Wan Chai G3-11, 68 Yee Wo Street, Causeway
Station, Exit C); b) Spring Deer, 42 Mody
Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, 2366 4012
Bay, Hong Kong Island, 3160 8998
(MTR Causeway Bay Station, Exit F1)
Yu ZheJiang Heen
(MTR Tsim Sha Tsui Station, Exit P1) Website: dintaifung.com.hk Sichuan’s spices are some of the There once was a time, when if you
hottest in the world, and those wanted great Zhejiang cuisine, you
with a taste for them should head had to tag along with a connected
down to Yu, a tiny spot in Causeway friend to one of the members-only
Bay. Dare your mouth with fiery restaurants in town. Zhejiang Heen
dishes such as spicy chicken, changed that though, its relaxed
pork dumplings and a range of Wan Chai setting, affordable prices
pickled vegetables. Most popular and authentic tastes making it
is the dandanmian, homemade a more than worthy alternative.
noodles with minced pork in a Experience the comforting flavours
mouth-numbing sauce – it comes of eastern China, including golden
in different levels of heat, so even prawn balls, deep-fried chicken,
the weakest palate will be able fried eel and the wonderful fish
to appreciate it. Pair it with a head cooked two ways.
cucumber soy milk and your tongue
will thank you. 19 Address: 2/F & 3/F, Kiu Fu Commercial
Building, 300-306 Lockhart Road,
18 Address: 4 Yiu Wa Street, Causeway Wan Chai, Hong Kong Island, 2877
Bay, Hong Kong Island, 2838 8198 9011 (MTR Wan Chai Station, Exit A1)
(MTR Causeway Bay Station, Exit A) Website: zhejiangheen.com
21 Address: 1/F, 20A D'Aguilar Street, 22 Address: 1 Elgin Street, Central, Hong
Lan Kwai Fong, Central, Hong Kong Kong Island, 2810 0860 (MTR Central
Island, 3487 1715 (MTR Central Station, Station, Exit D2)
Exit D2) Website: holeefookhk.tumblr.com
L’Atelier de Joël
Robuchon
It’s on the World’s 50 Best
Restaurants list and holds three
Michelin stars. At Robuchon, it’s all
about your preferences: relaxed in
the Atelier restaurant or sushi-style
on the Le Jardin counter, traditional
French favourites or innovative
contemporary choices, à la carte
or prix-fixe. And with Le Salon de
Thé and Le Café downstairs, the
assortment is near endless.
DISCOVER MORE
The Michelin Guide has been in
Hong Kong since 2008, dishing
out stars to some of our best
Lung King Heen
restaurants. Check out its Bib As you’d expect from the Four
Gourmand section for good, Seasons’ premier Chinese restaurant,
cheap eats Lung King Heen is very fancy, an
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon upscale take on traditional Chinese
Lung King Heen
flavours, often awarded three
Michelin stars. Dim sum, barbecued
meats and wok-fried dishes are
raised to stellar heights by Executive
Chef Chan Yan Tak and team. Keep
in mind, you’ll pay for the privilege.
Book well in advance.
Il Moro
Amporn Thai Il Moro
Kowloon City is often called Little No menu, no staff. Just Joseph, an
Thailand, and for good reason, Italian chef-owner who serves up
with large sections of the country’s incredible trattoria staples. Check
immigrants living in the area. your ego at the door and leave it all in
For foodies, that means plenty his more-than-capable hands, as he
of authentic Thai restaurants, serves up a true Italiano feast: multiple
including Amporn, a popular cooked courses of immense flavour, from olive
food centre spot. It’s all about oil-soaked roast veg, to fresh pasta
heaping plates of Thai favourites at with even fresher sauces. Massive
affordable prices: pungent curries, mains of osso bucco and red snapper,
steamed fish, and their ever-popular finished off with home-made Amalfi
shrimp sashimi. Amporn is cheap lemon tart. Not for small stomachs,
as chips, making the trek out here and it’s all best paired with wines from
more than worth it. Joseph’s family vineyard.
28 Address: Shop 9, 3/F, 48 Hau Wong 30 Address: Shop D, G/F, 8 Po Hing Fong,
Road, Kowloon City, Kowloon, 2382 Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Island, 2547
4622 (Bus 115) 2898 (MTR Sai Ying Pun Station, Exit C)
Neighborhood
Maison Libanaise Hong Kong chef David Lai is a local
Hip Lebanese cuisine, in an expat- treasure, a man who effortlessly
centric area, with rooftop views of moves between Chinese, French
locals going about their evenings – and Italian cuisines, to create his
the kind of contrast you’d only ever own unique contemporary class of
find in Hong Kong. Maison Libanaise gastronomy. Neighborhood is where
has made its mark through excellent he lets his hair down, a private little
mezze-style plates and clever spot facing a small park that’s ideal
cocktail concoctions, at affordable for experimentation. The menu
prices compared to its SoHo changes every week and it celebrates
neighbours. No reservations, so nose-to-tail dining, so the squeamish
be prepared to queue. If you can’t should look elsewhere. Pig’s feet,
stand the wait, they also do a great tripe and sweetbreads sit comfortably
selection of takeaway dishes. next to raw mackerel and fresh pasta.
Reservations recommended.
32 Address: 10 Shelley Street, Central,
Hong Kong Island, 2111 2284 (MTR 33 Address: G/F, 61-63 Hollywood Road,
Central Station, Exit D2) Central, Hong Kong Island, 2617 0891
Website: maisonlibanaise.com.hk (MTR Central Station, Exit D2)
Maison Libanaise
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High-end French food in the middle This pair of tucked away restaurants CY
of Wan Chai’s wet market, Serge all are located in bustling Causeway CMY
but defines Hong Kong’s fascinating Bay, each holding a dozen or so
cuisine contrasts. It helps, of course, seats. They serve sushi the old- K
that the food here is very good, a fashioned way: one piece at a time.
contemporary take on classic Gallic Indulge in an omakase journey,
dishes, all served in a retro-modern where the freshest fish is served for
setting. The menu’s ever-changing, your tasting pleasure. Dinner can
but expect such fascinating flavours be pricey, so drop in at lunchtime
as oyster ceviche and butterflied for a great deal. Keep in mind, the
quail. Paired with its impressive experience takes about two hours.
selection of biodynamic wines, it’s
a little slice of modern Paris among 35 Address: a) Circle Tower, 16/F, 28 Tang
hectic Hong Kong. Lung Street, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong
Island, 2898 3399 (MTR Causeway
34 Address: Shop B2, G/F, Tower 1, The Bay Station, Exit A); b) 1 Caroline Hill
Zenith, 3 Wan Chai Road, Wan Chai, Road, Shop 18-19, G/F, Causeway Bay,
Hong Kong Island, 5465 2000 (MTR Hong Kong Island, 3462 2728 (MTR
Wan Chai Station, Exit A3) Causeway Bay Station, Exit F1)
2 Address: Tung Choi Street, Mong Kok, 3 Address: Li Yuen Street East & West,
Kowloon (MTR Mong Kok Station, Central, Hong Kong Island
Exit E2) (MTR Central Station, Exit D2)
Cat Street
Just below the art galleries and restaurants of Hollywood
Road, Cat Street is a longstanding antiques market that stocks
items from as far back as the Ming dynasty. Sift through
ramshackle stalls and stroll into well-maintained stores to
find relics from the Cultural Revolution, vestiges from colonial
times, ancient jade jewellery and an assortment of quirky
items from Hong Kong’s past. Keep in mind, some pieces are
reproductions, and make sure to bargain.
Stanley Market
Out in idyllic Stanley, a tranquil
waterfront town of low-rise homes
and independent restaurants, lies
this street market. It’s a veritable
cornucopia of goods and souvenirs,
with clothes, artwork, luggage and
everything in between for sale. The
market is a daytime affair, perfect
for a gentle morning’s saunter
among the back alleys. Locals shop
here, but there’s definitely a strong
expat focus, one that’s obvious
in the large-sized clothing and
reproduction western paintings.
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artisan shopping
Hong Kong’s stature as a global fashion hub is growing fast, and leading
the charge are a number of homegrown designers. One of them is
Melissa Bui, an up-and-coming name who’s making waves at fashion
circuits all over the world. Her collections are inspired by the city around
her, and here she gives us the low-down on where she shops.
NATURAL BEAUTY
I personally love
flowers, so I try to
head over to Flower
Market Road, Hong
Kong’s biggest flower
market, to get a dose
of weekly inspiration,
while picking up new
blooms for the atelier,
of course. While here,
definitely check out
Hay Fever Floral &
Gifts (No. 62-64) –
there’s a really cute
Hay Fever Floral & Gifts
café inside.
LaLa Curio
G.O.D.
If ‘I Heart HK’ t-shirts and fridge DISCOVER MORE
magnets aren’t your sort of G.O.D.’s tagline is ‘Delay No More’,
souvenir, drop into this chain of a cheeky English homophonic
locally founded stores. Short for translation of a popular
‘Goods of Desire’, they put quirky Cantonese profanity – but we
spins on vintage Hong Kong can’t tell you what it means!
aesthetics: old posters turned into
cushion covers, letterbox-print
boxer shorts, strings of red lantern
fairy lights, and contemporary takes
on classic Chinese fashion.
Lane Crawford
Thomas Lane and Ninian Crawford were colonial men of
refined tastes. Starting out as a makeshift bamboo setup in
1850, the store was met with immediate success, blossoming
into the outlets that now bear its name across the city. The
focus is mostly on high-end, with couture brands taking up
the majority of space, while personal stylists and concierge
services are provided to satisfy your every whim.
JOYCE
I.T JOYCE
I.T is the little Hong Kong brand that Joyce is a Hong Kong-born chain
could. What started as a small store where the focus is constantly
in the late ‘80s has blossomed into shifting. Department stores, couture
one of the city’s biggest fashion boutiques, beauty outlets, men’s
successes, with the publicly listed grooming salons, even art galleries,
company managing over 600 JOYCE’s many diverse outlets target
I.T shops worldwide. Their Hong every interest within the fashion
Kong-based stores are a mix of in- world. Their flagship boutiques,
house brands and hip names from on both Hong Kong Island and
abroad, with a focus mostly on chic Kowloon, are worth extended
casualwear. Major names on their wanders, stocking both local and
racks include A Bathing Ape, French international high-end brands.
Connection, Kurt Geiger and izzue.
15 Address: Various locations, including
14 Address: Various locations, including 16-18 Queen's Road Central, Central,
1 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong Island, 2810 1120
Hong Kong Island, 2890 7012 (MTR (MTR Central Station, Exit G)
Causeway Bay Station, Exit F2)
2 Address: a) Repulse Bay, Beach Road, 3 Address: a) Victoria Park, 1 Hing Fat
Hong Kong Island (Bus 6, 6A, 6X, 66 or Street, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong
260); b) South Bay Beach, South Bay Island (MTR Causeway Bay Station,
Road, Hong Kong Island (Bus 6, 6A, 6X, Exit E); b) Kowloon Park, Tsim Sha
66 or 260); c) Shek O, Hong Kong Island Tsui, Kowloon (MTR Tsim Sha Tsui
(MTR Shau Kei Wan Station, Exit A3, Station, Exit A1); c) Tai Po Waterfront
followed by bus 9); d) Tai Long Wan, Sai Park, Dai Fat Street, Tai Po, New
Kung, New Territories (MTR Choi Hung Territories (MTR Tai Po Market Station,
Station, Exit C, followed by minibus 1A. Exit A3, followed by shuttle bus K17)
From Sai Kung Town, taxi to Sai Wan
Pavilion and follow the trail to the beach)
WATERSPORTS
Hong Kong’s many isles make it
more than ideal for water-based
sports. Get your wetsuit on and hit
the waves. Grab a board and surf the
appropriately named Big Wave Bay
in Shek O, or windsurf across the
shores of Cheung Chau. Snorkel along
the surface and dive the depths of
CYCLING Sharp Island. Whatever your watery
pleasure, the city has it.
Far from Hong Kong’s bustle,
cycling paths exist for all levels of 6 Address: a) Big Wave Bay, Shek O,
enthusiasts. Mui Wo is a lazy day Hong Kong Island (MTR Shau Kei Wan
favourite; pick up a bike near the Station, Exit A3, followed by bus 9);
pier and get lost among its sleepy b) Cheung Chau (Central Ferry Pier 5);
villages. Tolo Harbour, stretching c) Sharp Island (Sai Kung Public Pier)
from Tai Wai to Tai Mei Tuk, lets you
build up a sweat while taking in
gorgeous waterfront views – hire a
bike in nearby Sha Tin Park. And if Junk trips
you have your own bike, sturdier legs A summer favourite and a classic
can journey into our multi-terrain weekend excursion, ‘junks’ are
country parks: Tai Lam and Shek medium-sized boats hired for a full
O offer flat, shaded terrain, while day out on Hong Kong’s gorgeous
Lantau South gets a little rockier. waters. Set sail from the Central
pier and get one loaded up with
4 Address: a) Mui Wo, Lantau Island food and drink for all your friends.
(Central Ferry Pier 6); b) Tolo Harbour, Along with stunning waterfront DISCOVER MORE
Tai Wai, New Territories (MTR Tai Wai views, ask your captain to set a In summer, swells from
Station, Exit A); c) Tai Lam Country course for the city’s most remote the south mean Lantau
Park, Tai Lam, New Territories (MTR swimming spots and beaches. Island gets gnarly
waves. Check out Pui O
Tuen Mun Station, Exit B1, followed by
or Cheung Sha beaches.
minibus 43); d) Shek O, Hong Kong 5 Address: Depart from Central Ferry Pier 9. Their white sands make
Island (MTR Shau Kei Wan Station, Website: Visit www.junks.hk to them very appealing
Exit A3, followed by bus 9) compare prices and book a junk. to non-surfers too.
Maclehose Trail
natural wonders
To most, Hong Kong is just another city, a hectic metropolis of commerce
and skyscrapers. But to those exploring the fringes, it’s a place unlike
any other, one where ancient villages, stunning summits and pristine
beaches all add up to landscapes that feel otherworldly. Here, Instagram
photographer Francis So gives us a tour of his favourite spots.
SUNSET PEAK
The Sunset Peak is best
in autumn, when the
whole area is covered
with shimmering Chinese
silver grass. It takes about
one and a half hours to
walk to the peak, and I’d
recommend going before
3pm, as the scenery is
best during sunset. It’s
beautiful in spring and
summer, often with a sea
of clouds overhead.
LONG KE
Tai Mo Shan HIGH ISLAND RESERVOIR
Particularly serene, Long
In summer, stage one of the
Ke is a pristine beach with
MacLehose Trail is one of the best
amazing views. Located
places to view the sunset at dusk
about half an hour beyond
as well as the starry sky at night.
High Island (see opposite),
East Dam is part of Hong Kong
there’s also a campsite
Global Geopark and it’s reachable
here, making it a great spot
on foot. The hexagonal rock
to go for stargazing.
columns are fascinating for those
interested in geology. Under the
West Dam is Astropark, featuring
TAI MO SHAN astronomical instruments
Tai Mo Shan is the highest mountain in Hong and benches, where you can
Kong, it’s even higher than The Peak, and comfortably lie back and stargaze.
KUK PO you’re able to see more of Hong Kong from
Every January and February, the village of Kuk its summit. The top is a restricted area, but
Po gets covered with golden reeds. It’s a stunning even so, the highest point on the road offers a
view. There are also some old houses around, stunning view of the city. If the weather is good
letting you experience a glimpse of bygone Hong enough, you can see Victoria Harbour, the
Kong while trying out local delicacies, including peaks in the Kowloon Peninsula and Lantau
tofu pudding and Hakka steamed glutinous rice Island. It takes about an hour to walk from the
cakes. Take a minibus from Fanling to Luk Keng, Rotary Park Campsite to the highest point of
Kuk Po and another hour’s walk will take you to Kuk Po. the road to Tai Mo Shan. High Island Reservoir
sports & outdoors [ outlying islands ]
Nature lovers will get a kick out of Hong Kong Wetland Park, a
fascinating ecotourism park that explores Hong Kong’s varied
flora and fauna. Its 60-hectare reserve showcases some of the
city’s wonderful wildlife, from birds and butterflies to fish and
amphibians, while a number of walks and gardens let you get up
close. Interactive educational experiences are also offered, with
galleries, a theatre, a cinema and various play areas, making the
faraway park fit for the whole family.
13 Address: Wetland Park Road, Tin Shui Wai, New Territories, 3152 2666
(MTR Tin Shui Wai Station, then Light Rail 705 or 706)
Website: wetlandpark.gov.hk
Dragon Boat Races Hong Kong e-Prix Hong Kong Marathon Hong Kong open
Dragon boat races, a Hong Kong Revving up for its very first time in Strap a number to your chest and Get in the swing of things at the
spectacle, where brawny rowers 2016, the Hong Kong E-Prix is the hit the streets, as long-distance Hong Kong Open, the city’s oldest
battle it out in dragon-shaped newest sporting event on the scene. runners take part in the city’s professional sporting event and
vessels while the crowds cheer on Every winter, the event shuts down biggest marathon. The Hong Kong a tournament where the world’s
from the side. Events take place all a chunk of the city for a race unlike Marathon has been on-the-run best golfers gather. Set in Sheung
over the city, but the two biggest any other. Environmentally friendly since 1997, the annual event Shui as the weather starts to cool
are the championships in Stanley Formula E cars speed their way seeing up to 60,000 people in December, it regularly awards a
at end of May, and the carnival through a late-night track right in compete at the beginning of every US$2 million prize, with previous
over three days in June on the the middle of Central’s busy streets. year. While the full marathon winners including Rory McIlroy and
harbourfront. Catch them both if It’s fast paced, as well as a little distance covers over 40km, there Justin Rose. Admission is free on
you can. furious, and spectators can catch are also half-marathon and 10km the first two days, and ticketed for
the energy-filled thrills from the races too. the main event over the weekend.
16 Address: a) Dragon Boat heady sidelines.
Championships, Stanley Main Beach, 18 Address: Victoria Park, 1 Hing Fat 19 Address: Hong Kong Golf Club,
Stanley, Hong Kong Island (Bus 6, 6A, 17 Address: Central harbourfront, Street, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 1 Fan Kam Road, Sheung Shui, New
6X, 66 or 260); b) Dragon Boat Carnival, Hong Kong Island (MTR Central Island (MTR Causeway Bay Station, Territories (MTR Sheung Shui Station,
Central harbourfront, Hong Kong Island Station, Exit A) Exit E) Exit C, followed by taxi)
(MTR Central Station, Exit A) Website: hkformulae.com Website: hkmarathon.com Website: ubshkopen.com
CM
Started in the 1970s as a local club With names like Venus Williams, CY
affair, the Sevens has blossomed Jelena Jankovic and Johanna Konta CMY
into Hong Kong’s biggest sporting regularly gracing our hard courts,
showcase. Tickets are nigh- the Hong Kong Tennis Open is K
Cheung Chau Bun Chinese New Year Dragon Boat Water Mid-Autumn Festival
Festival Hong Kong’s biggest festival, and
one that sweeps over the entire city.
Parade of Tai O Mid-Autumn was once celebrated
to welcome the harvest and is now
The mad clamber to the top, the Red lanterns are hung all across Unlike the boisterous races that take an enduring custom that takes
grabbing of buns, the cheer of town, lion dances are performed place in the summer, the Dragon over the city. Mooncakes are sold
the crowd as the winners make on the streets, and crowds head Boat Water Parade of Tai O is a everywhere, fruit and wine offerings
their descent. This festival is a rare down to their local temple to pray sedate, religious procession, one are made to the gods, and lanterns
spectacle, not only of athleticism for good fortune. Chinese New Year that’s organised annually (18 Jun are lit to emulate the full moon
during its bun tower climbing (16-18 Feb 2018) is a celebration 2018) to appease the many water (25 Sep 2018). In Victoria Park, kids
competition, but of camaraderie that Hong Kong adores. Take a ghosts of ancient stilt village, Tai O. carry mini-lanterns, while games,
and good cheer. Falling just before wander through the many makeshift It’s a long-established ritual, where shows and performances take place.
the summer (19-23 May 2018), its markets selling all manner of festive the village’s elders parade deity And down the road in Tai Hang, the
history is based on offerings to fend items, stop in to see floats in the statues in their sacred boats, while Fire Dragon Dance is a spectacle
off an ancient plague. The event Night Parade, and then catch the devotees on the sides fill the waters where an incensed-studded beast
also includes ceremonies, parades stunning firework display that lights with paper offerings. Come early in dances through the streets.
and lion dances. Be warned though, up Victoria Harbour. the morning for the best views.
it can get very busy. 3 Address: a) Victoria Park, Causeway
2 Address: Tai O, Lantau Island Bay, Hong Kong Island (MTR Causeway
1 Address: Cheung Chau (MTR Tung Chung Station, Exit B, Bay, Exit E); b) Tai Hang, Hong Kong
(Central Ferry Pier 5) then bus 11) Island (MTR Tin Hau Station, Exit B)
Chinese Tea & Medicine Feng Shui & Lam Tsuen Petty Person Beating
For thousands of years, ancient
Chinese remedies were known to
Palm Reading Wishing Trees At a busy intersection between Wan
Chai and Causeway Bay a woman
alleviate and treat numerous ailments. Hong Kong’s faith in forces are on Lam Tsuen has been inhabited for sits bashing a sheet of paper with an
To this day, herbal concoctions are to display across town. Feng shui is the almost 800 years, dating back to old shoe, chanting Cantonese curses
be found all over Hong Kong, and a ancient practice of finding balance the Song Dynasty, and the wishing while people look on. The paper, cut
peek inside the medicine stores along with nature. To see it in action trees once saw villagers tossing into the shape of a tiger, had been
Ko Shing Street offers a glimpse one only needs to look up – our wish-filled paper onto its branches. handed to her with a petty person's
into the ways the tradition is kept skyscrapers are harmoniously set, The higher up they reached, the more name written upon on it. This ancient
alive. And for something a little more some with ‘gateways’ to allow the likely, it was believed, their wishes practice is believed to be able to
appetising, look into Chinese tea and dragon to pass. Fortune tellers are would come true. Today, preservation dispel a troublesome individual in
its soothing properties, particularly at popular in the city, and near Temple means your wishes are tied to nearby your life. Watch the regular stream of
Flagstaff House. Street a row of them await to read railings, but it’s still an impressive believers from afar. Or throw down
your future in English or Chinese. sight, especially around festival time, your own paper tiger to get rid of a
7 Address: a) Ko Shing Street, Sheung Find out more about feng shui on a when crowds from all across the city person making your life difficult.
Wan, Hong Kong Island (MTR Sheung special tour: skybird.com.hk. gather to have their wishes fulfilled.
Wan Station, Exit A2); b) Flagstaff 10 Address: Junction of Hennessy Road
House, Hong Kong Park, 10 Cotton 8 Address: Temple Street, Yau Ma Tei, 9 Address: Lam Tsuen, Tai Po, New and Canal Road, Causeway Bay, Hong
Tree Drive, Central, Hong Kong Island Kowloon (MTR Yau Ma Tei Station, Territories (MTR Tai Po Market Station, Kong Island (MTR Causeway Bay
(MTR Admiralty Station, Exit C1) Exit C) then bus 64K or 64P) Station, Exit A)
CM
MY
CMY
Slow, graceful movements to On any given day of the week,
find balance between the body’s at nearly any hour, you’ll find a K
natural yin and yang – that’s tai believer making an offering to the
chi in a nutshell, an ancient ritual gods at one of our city’s many
practised by old and young alike all temples. They’re impressive places
throughout the city. You might see of worship: smoky, atmospheric and
people performing break of dawn filled with ancient relics of Hong
around town – but the best place to Kong’s long history. Drop in and
catch a glimpse of it is in the city’s have a peek around, they’re open
parks, particularly Victoria Park, to all. Or, if you’re feeling generous,
where crowds meet to practise make a small donation and pay your
every day. Don’t be shy, many are respects by lighting incense. Some
happy to teach newcomers. of the best temples can be found
listed in the Attractions section of
11 Address: Victoria Park, Causeway Bay, this guide.
Hong Kong Island (MTR Causeway
Bay, Exit E)
Fringe Club
8 Website: hk.artsfestival.org
Art Basel
Clockenflap
Art Basel Clockenflap
Asia’s biggest art fair, Art Basel has
stretched far beyond its convention Hong Kong’s biggest music festival,
centre base, expanding into an Clockenflap is an electrifying
assortment of parallel events all weekend of great tunes and
across town. The main event is an captivating multimedia. Featuring
open-to-the-public weeklong affair local, regional and international
at the convention centre in March, acts, alongside film and art
with hundreds of international installations, it’s often set outdoors
galleries flying in to display their in November, just as the weather
most important works. Walk its vast cools. Attracting crowds of up to
halls and meet many of the artists 50,000 people, including entire
in person, before hitting the town families, the festival features
for events and parties that celebrate numerous food and drinks vendors,
Hong Kong’s cultural cornerstone. alongside a dedicated kids' zone.
Previous years have seen headliners
7 Address: Hong Kong Convention and The Chemical Brothers, New Order,
Exhibition Centre, 1 Expo Drive, Wan The Flaming Lips and Flying Lotus.
Chai, Hong Kong Island (MTR Wan Chai
Station, Exit A5) 9 Website: clockenflap.com
Website: artbasel.com
2
FALLEN ANGELS (1995)
We filmed more of Chungking
Mansions in Fallen Angels than we
did Chungking Express, and again, the
5
building acted as a metaphor for the
film. It’s wondrous, it has no answer,
they don’t even know what’s going
on there. It’s a melange of different
cultures, it’s a collage of people who
aren’t very rich trying to work out how
to live in Hong Kong. There’s no city
in the world where you can see such HONG KONG TRILOGY (2016)
a variety of visceral, essential and ‘Who are we and why are we
personal experiences. here?’ – that’s what we were
addressing with Hong Kong
Trilogy. It was about changes since
3
the handover, and hopefully that
initiated some kind of response.
IN THE MOOD FOR LOVE (2000) But it’s not just about Instagram,
With In the Mood for Love, we tried to celebrate Hong Kong’s simple it’s about what this city suggests
values. The 1960s for Hong Kong people was transitional. It’s nostalgia, to you. It comes down to movie-
for the values that we now may think we may lose. Most people from making to make your point. We
that time were immigrants, and it was a society looking for itself, which need to reach out, and hopefully
is what we’re doing again now. Art’s function is to remind you of how films do it better than politics. We
beautiful your life could be, and how beautiful it is. have to have a voice.
arts & entertainment [ contemporary spaces ]
PMQ
A sleek artistic space on the border of Central, PMQ is the
former police married quarters turned Hong Kong creative hub.
Independent restaurants and shops dominate the lower levels, while
the upper floors are made up of various artistic studios, with the
public offered a rare glimpse inside their inventive lives. Snake your
way through its many floors, before dropping in for a drink and a
snack at famed chef Jason Atherton’s Aberdeen Street Social.
South Island
Cultural District
South Island Cultural District was
founded in 2013, with an aim to
offer Hong Kong an alternative
art-centric area to explore. Over
20 contemporary galleries, studios
and art spaces are lined up along
Wong Chuk Hang and Aberdeen,
each presenting ever-changing
exhibitions. Annual open days,
including Art Day, Art Night and
Art Brunch, allow culture novices
to explore the many spaces while
engaging with the community.
Knutsford Terrace Lan Kwai Fong & SoHo Tung Choi Street Wan Chai Bar District
An across-the-harbour counter to The beating heart of Hong Kong’s A few streets north of Mong Kok’s Once famed for its Suzie Wong-style
Central’s Lan Kwai Fong, Knutsford nightlife scene, Lan Kwai Fong and Ladies’ Market, Tung Choi Street gentlemen’s venues, Wan Chai has
Terrace in Tsim Sha Tsui is a SoHo are the city’s most popular is a local hangout, a stretch of cleaned up its act, and now features
decidedly more sedate affair, with boozing districts, two neighbouring Chinese-style pubs where bottled a wide variety of colonial-style pubs,
a long line of bustling restaurants areas in Central filled with bars, beers are served in buckets, sports bars and live music clubs.
that transform into late-night pubs, clubs and all manner of dartboards are everywhere, Watch football and rugby on huge
watering holes. The area features watering holes. LKF is the busier of and dice games are constantly projector screens, down a couple
an even mix of ground-level the two, with rowdy crowds spilling being played. But don’t feel pints of real British ale, catch cover
alfresco spots and upstairs bars, out of its blaring bars and onto overwhelmed: the bars are more bands playing your favourite hair-
as well as a small smattering of the streets on any given weekend. than welcoming to tourists, and it’s metal tunes, and then dance the
after-hours clubs. Popular choices A popular spot is Stormies. SoHo, a great way to rub shoulders with night away on a booze-soaked bar
include The China Bar for live meanwhile, is a more relaxed affair, friendly local faces while enjoying top. Long-standing favourites include
music, and Assembly for snacks contrasted by quiet lounges and some of the best-priced drinks in Scottish pub The Canny Man and
and cocktails. tucked-away boozers. One of our town. Best bets include Quarter music venue The Wanch.
favourites is Stazione Novella. Bar, Future Lounge and the
1 Address: a) The China Bar, 10-11 cheekily named Piss Bar II. 4 Address: a) The Canny Man, B/F,
Knutsford Terrace, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2 Address: a) Stormies, 46 D’Aguilar Wharney Guangdong Hotel, 57-73
Kowloon, 2367 1011; b) Assembly, Street, Central, Hong Kong Island, 3 Address: a) Quarter Bar, 248-250 Lockhart Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong
6 Knutsford Terrace, Tsim Sha Tsui, 2845 5533; b) Stazione Novella, 52-56 Tung Choi Street, Mong Kok, Kowloon, Island, 2861 1935; b) The Wanch, 54
Kowloon, 2723 6588 (MTR Tsim Sha Tsui Staunton Street, Central, Hong Kong 2381 8668; b) Future Lounge, 240 Jaffe Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong
Station, Exit B1) Island, 2559 0559 (MTR Central Tung Choi Street, Mong Kok, Kowloon, Island, 2861 1621 (MTR Wan Chai
Websites: thechinabar.com.hk; Station, Exit D2) 2381 5111; c) Piss Bar II, 214 Tung Choi Station, Exit A1)
assembly.knutsfordbyprivegroup.hk Websites: cafedecogroup.com; Street, Mong Kok, Kowloon (MTR Websites: thecannyman.com;
stazionenovella.com Prince Edward Station, Exit B1) thewanch.hk
The Globe
Captain’s Bar
The Mandarin Oriental is a Hong Kong institution, a city
landmark, and while the hotel has seen a number of changes
over the decades, one thing has stayed the same: the Captain’s
Bar, a 50-plus-year-old pub that’s become a regular post-
work watering hole for Central’s suited types. Beers are
famously served in silver tankards, including a craft beer made
exclusively for the bar, and cocktails are perfectly mixed by
bow-tied bartenders. On weekends, drop in to catch a crooning
live jazz lounge act. DISCOVER MORE
Craft beer is a growing trend in Hong
Address: G/F, Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 5 Connaught Road Central, Hong
Kong. Local brewers worth seeking out
5 include Young Master, Gweilo, Black
Kong Island, 2825 4006 (MTR Central Station, Exit F)
Kite, Moonzen and Lion Rock.
Website: mandarinoriental.com
On a sloping street near Lan Kwai Down the street from Central, Sense
Fong, this LGBT bar is raucous, 99 is a serene slice of hipster cool in
blasting danceable tunes while an old colonial building. Everything
its many patrons spill out on about this two-floor bar has a bit of
the sidewalk. Its daily all-night artistic charm: furniture is a second-
promotions make it a popular hand mishmash, surreal artwork is
choice all week, ranging from happy dotted all around the walls, and the
hour prices to 2-for-1. Nothing toilet is full of graffiti. Rub shoulders
beats ‘Bubbly Thursdays’ with free over bargain drinks on its airy terraces,
champagne for all – possibly the only and then head up to its jam spot,
bar in town to serve up free drinks to where anyone with a bit of musical
both sexes. skill can join the band for the night.
9 Address: 98 Tung Lo Wan Road, Tai 11 Address: 5 Hing Wan Street, Wan Chai,
Hang, Hong Kong Island, 2656 0232 Hong Kong Island, 2572 0055 (MTR
(MTR Tin Hau Station, Exit B) Wan Chai Station, Exit A3)
Second Draft
Neway Karaoke
Club Legend Throw a rock in Causeway Bay,
Mong Kok or any populated area
If Hong Kong’s Western-tinged of the city, and you’re bound to
nightclubs just aren’t cutting it hit a karaoke bar. It’s a Hong Kong
for you, head out to Club Legend, pastime and a late-night weekend
an immense spot popular among favourite, where large groups blare
local millennials. This Mong Kok out tunes while downing whisky and
dive is absolutely packed on green tea. If you’re up for the singing
weekends with massive dance challenge, Neway is one of the city’s
floors, multiple DJ booths, most famous chains, with private VIP
chilled-out lounge areas and rooms, food and drinks packages,
numerous darts machines. And for and plenty of international songs to
those who can put it away, their choose from.
assortment of all-you-can-drink
deals is unrivalled in Hong Kong. 14 Address: Various locations, including
2-3/F, 19-31 Yee Wo Street, Causeway
12 Address: 19/F, 601 Nathan Road, Mong Bay, Hong Kong Island, 2137 9777
Kok, Kowloon, 2264 8010 (MTR Mong (MTR Causeway Bay Station, Exit F1)
Kok Station, Exit E1) Neway Karaoke Website: newaykb.com
MACPHERSON STADIUM
Macpherson Stadium (macstadium.hkpa.hk) is a multi-purpose VISAGE ONE
sports venue in Mong Kok, and in recent years has also proved itself A gentleman’s hair salon by day, owner Benky Chan sporadically
as the best mid-scale venue in Hong Kong, in my humble opinion. transforms his studio into Visage One (2523 8988) – the most
We’ve put on artists including Morrissey, Bon Iver, Tame Impala and intimate and inspired jazz and blues bar in town. With a covert,
many others in there, and being able to fully control the sound and speakeasy feel, musicians don’t play on any stage, making for a
production, plus fully license a bar inside, all adds up to creating beautifully connected show with no separation between performers
great gig-going experiences. Simple pleasures. and audience. A special setting indeed.
nightlife [ stunning views ]
Aqua Aqua
CÉ LA VI
CÉ LA VI is all about the views, a
spacious deckhouse-like rooftop
bar in Central where you’re right in
the middle of the skyscraper mix.
On your left, Bank of China Tower;
on your right, Central Plaza; and
far off in the distance, the ICC,
Hong Kong’s tallest building. It’s a
grand 360-degree showcase of the
sweeping skyline, paired with cool
cocktails, tasty fusion snacks and an
impressive wine list.
Cassio
26 Address: 44 D’Aguilar Street, Central, 27 Address: 89-91 Larch Street, Tai Kok
Hong Kong Island, 2810 1510 (MTR Tsui, Kowloon (MTR Prince Edward
Central Station, Exit D2) Station, Exit C2)
Website: volar.com.hk Website: xxxgallery.hk
THE ultimate LONG WEEKEND SUNDAY: OUTDOOR DAY MONDAY: SHOPPING DAY
9AM Sunday dim 10AM Start on Cat
sum. Luk Yu Tea Street (p78) for
FRIDAY: CITY DAY SATURDAY: LANTAU DAY House for old- age-old antiques.
world charm, or Lin Sift through PoHo’s
9AM Ride the Airport Express 9AM Hop on the MTR Heung Tea House independent stores
into Central. to Tung Chung and for a working-class (p84).
ride the cable car to experience (p52).
11AM Walk to Central’s Ngong Ping (p37).
Peak Tram terminus 1PM Lunch in Wan Chai at
and take in stunning 10AM Pack a lunch Kam’s Roast Goose (p50)
views at The Peak 11AM Shop at Ngong and head to Sha or Under Bridge Spicy
(p27). Ping village, before Tin. Find Stage 5 Crab (p55).
walking to The Big of the MacLehose
2PM Back to Central. Lunch Buddha (p26). Trail; hike through
at Jimmy’s Kitchen (p58), or unique sights 2:30PM Shop for gadgets at Wan
Sing Kee dai pai dong (p54). (p105). Chai Computer Centre (p96).
1PM A healthy lunch at Po Lin
Monastery (p26).
3:30PM Ride the Star 5PM Head to Yau Ma
Ferry (p31) for skyline Tei, where Temple
views. Disembark at 3PM Taxi to Mui 3PM Taxi to Street (p80) and
Kowloon, stroll the Tsim Sha Tsui Wo Pier, hire a Sha Tin Racecourse Ladies’ Market (p79)
Promenade (p29). bicycle (p102) and for last few Sunday races offer many souvenirs.
explore surrounding (p120).
7PM Taxi to the ICC Building villages.
(p39). Have a drink at Ozone 8PM A quick dinner: street snacks
bar (p158). 6PM Taxi to Sai at Dundas Street (p50) or a
6PM Cycle to Pui O. Kung. Enjoy a simple dish at Mido Café (p52).
8:30PM Dinner time. Tuck into Have dinner waterfront dinner
classic Peking duck at Spring and watch the at Sing Kee
Deer (p62) or fusion flavours at sunset at Mavericks (p161). (p54). 9PM Connect from the
China Tang (p56). MTR to the Airport Express,
and arrive back at the
airport for your flight
8PM Ferry back 9PM Grab a nightcap home.
10:30PM Party on to Central. Take at alfresco bars Cé
Knutsford Terrace in bustling Lan La Vi (p157) or Pier
or Tung Choi Street Kwai Fong & SoHo on a 3 Bar (p158).
(p146). Saturday night (p146).
14
19
13 Fanling Tai Mei Tuk
Tai Po
Yuen Long 9 3c 4b
22
19
south china sea
New territories
5b
4c
Tuen Mun
Attractions 25 Sha Tin Sai Kung 2d 15 8
Dining Tsuen Wan
15
Shopping 6c
Sports & 16 1a kau sai
Kwai Chung 8 chau
Outdoors 23
Living Culture
3
Arts & 20
Entertainment 13
Nightlife
Kowloon 12 28
5c
機場chek victoria Mong Kok, p180-181
Airportlap kok harbour Tsim Sha Tsui, p178-179
20a discovery bay 14c 9 6 14a Central, p174-175
11 10 30 Causeway Bay, p176-177
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Hom S
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17b d Hu
Gatew
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Kowlo
Lock Rd 13
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Hankow Rd
Mody Rd Mody
Rd Rd
d
ry
r
Mody Rd
k Dr
bu
Minden Row
7 s
Sali
8
Peking Rd
Rd S
Rd 6a
Nathan Rd
victoria
Hankow Rd
Peking
Ashley Rd
Chatham
harbour 16
Middle Rd Attractions
21 Harbour City East Tsim Sha Tsui Dining
4a Shopping
Canton
25
Sports &
Salisbury Rd Salisbury
Rd Outdoors
Rd
victoria
harbour Living Culture
Arts &
3 Entertainment
9 Nightlife
6b
Highway
Clock Tower
MTR Station
2 6c
178 best in hong kong A Traveller’s Guide 179
Be 3
maps |[ hong
mongkong
kok ]| df
or
d W
W Rd
12
Nathan
es 6b
Sai Yee
Rd Edward Rd
Fa Yue
La
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Lok Kwan St
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St
Kok Cheung St
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F ir
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Li Tak St
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unS
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Tung C
St
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Mong
Hw
Fuk Chak St St
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St
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Ka Shin St
hoi St
Fife St
Vict
Palm
Rd
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St
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St
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St
Argyle
Yim
ry A
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ce A
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ong
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St
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St
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Che
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err Pak Po
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ce A
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12
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oo
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W
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n St
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Pitt St
ang R
Ferry St
ation S
MTR Station
d
o Rd
Waterlo
Rd
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180 best in hong kong 5 8 5 19 A Traveller’s Guide 181
maps [ MTR network ]
羅湖 上水
Lo Wu Sheung Shui
天水圍 石門
粉嶺 太和 大埔墟 大學 恆安 烏溪沙
Tin Shui Wai Shek Mun
Fanling Tai Wo Tai Po Market University Heng On Wu Kai Sha
落馬洲(福田口岸)
Lok Ma Chau 第一城 大水坑 馬鞍山
(Futian Port) 火炭
*
馬場
朗屏 City One Tai Shui Hang Ma On Shan
Long Ping Fo Tan Racecourse
兆康
Siu Hong 沙田圍
元朗 Sha TIn Wai
Yuen Long 新界 沙田
錦上路 New territories Sha Tin 車公廟
Che Kung Temple
Kam Sheung Road
荃灣西
屯門 大圍
Tsuen Wan West
Tuen Mun Tai Wai
長沙灣 深水埗 石硤尾 九龍塘
大窩口 葵興 葵芳 荔景 美孚 Cheung Sham Shek Kowloon 黃大仙 彩虹
荃灣 Tai Wo Hau Kwai Hing Kwai Fong Lai King Mei Foo Sha Wan Shui Po Kip Mei Tong Wong Tai Sin Choi Hung
九龍灣
Tsuen Wan Kowloon Bay
機場快綫 荔枝角 樂富 鑽石山
Airport Express Lai Chi Kok 太子 Lok Fu Diamond Hill
牛頭角 寶琳
迪士尼綫 Prince Edward
南昌 Ngau Tau Kok Po Lam
Disneyland Resort Line 青衣 Nam Cheong
旺角 旺角東
九龍
東鐵綫
East Rail Line
博覽館
Tsing Yi
Mong Kok Mong Kok East Kowloon 觀塘
Kwun Tong 坑口
AsiaWorld-Expo Hang Hau
港島綫 油麻地 藍田 將軍澳
Island Line Yau Ma Tei
奧運 Lam Tin Tseung
觀塘綫 欣澳
Sunny Bay Olympic 何文田 Kwan O
Kwun Tong Line 機場 佐敦
Ho Man Tin
馬鞍山綫 Airport Jordan 油塘 調景嶺
Ma On Shan Line Yau Tiu Keng
九龍 柯士甸 黃埔 Tong Leng 康城
南港島綫 尖沙咀
迪士尼 Kowloon Austin Whampoa LOHAS Park
South Island Line Tsim Sha Tsui
Disneyland 紅磡
將軍澳綫 Resort Hung Hom
東涌 尖東
Tseung Kwan O Line East Tsim Sha Tsui
Tung Chung
荃灣綫 昂坪 Ngong Ping 360
Tsuen Wan Line
東涌綫
Tung Chung Line
大嶼山 香港
NEWBASE CONTENT
Guide Editor, English | Pavan Shamdasani
Guide Editor, Chinese | Carmen Yung
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Hong Kong Ballet (p131); Hong Kong Film Archive (p132); K11 (p140); Jacques Dumont (p32); Kelvin Yuen
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English version, November 2017 (1755)
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