波羅的海三小國‧波蘭深度國家公園‧巡訪蕭邦 23 日- Part 10-1 1

District Museum in Torun

行者無疆 導遊 :景明哲 2500-0585

在托倫 Toruń 老城中參觀的重點是進入老市政廳參觀其地區博物館 D i s t r i c t M u s e u m i n To r u n， 回 到 台 北 整 理 資 料

時 才 發 現這 老 城區 整合 性 地 規劃 了 位於 不同 地 點 之各 主 題博 物館。由於 篇 幅過 大 故特 意 另 闢一
章 節 來 介 紹 。 當 然 在 此 也 要 感 謝 行者無疆旅行社之導遊景明哲隨顧客所期待，讓我們能一飽眼福，更深刻的了
解波蘭的文化底蘊 (任何旅遊最最重要的是能與導遊協調一致，完成這項令人回味的旅程，再度推薦給大家這位好導
遊 )。
回歸主題 : 在托倫 Toruń 老城中之地區博物館 D i s t r i c t M u s e u m i n To r u n 包 括 了 下 列 不 同 地 址 與 展 覽 主 題 之
建 物 : 1 ) . Town Hall (Ratusz), Rynek Staromiejski 1, 當然這位於舊市政廳之博物館也是今天的參觀重點 2 ). The "Pod
Gwiazda" ("Under the Star") building, Rynek Staromiejski 35, 3 ). Esken House, ul. Lazienna 16, 4 ). Kopernik House, ul. Kopernika 15-17,
5 ). The Granaries (Spichlerze), ul. Ciasna 4/6/8, 6 ). The Granary (Spichlerz), ul. Franciszkanska 11, 7 ). The Granary (Spichlerz), ul.
Piekary 4 , 8 ). The ruins of the castle of the Teutonic Knights, ul. Podzamcze 3.

托倫 Toruń 之老市政廳 Old Town Hall，附設 District Muzeum in Toruń, 其畫廊展出波蘭之畫作 ( 十八世紀末~1939 )
The museum's holdings were based on two collections from different museums that had been founded in Torun in the second half of the
nineteenth century: Städtlisches Museum, founded in 1861 and housed in the Town Hall (Ratusz), and the Polish Museum of the Torun
Academic Association, which was established in 1876. These two museums were united in 1930 as one museum housed in the Town Hall,
known as the City Museum It was reopened after the war in 1946, and in 1950, it was renamed the Marine Museum. In 1965, it gained the
status of district museum.
The Division of Polish and European Art - Town Hall (Ratusz) - The division is housed in a Gothic and Renaissance town hall built from the
thirteenth until the late fourteenth century, and reconstructed in the years 1602-1603 by Antonia van Obbergena and adapted for use as a
museum in the years 1957-1964. Its collections of mediaeval and modern art contain works of sculpture and painting from the fourteenth
through the eighteenth centuries from the area of the former state of the Teutonic Knights and Royal Prussia (including many items from Torun
and environs); in terms of mediaeval art, the collection also contains pieces from Silesia. Of the mediaeval art, most valuable are the sculpture
of Mary and St. John from the Crucifixion group (1330-1350), and the painting Christ the Redeemer of the World (second half of the fifteenth
century) from the Cathedral Basilica of Sts. John the Baptist and John the Divine/Evangelist in Torun, the crucifix from the courtroom of the Old
Town Hall in Torun (1350), a figure of Mary of Sorrows from the church in Gostkow, near Torun (late fourteenth century) and three altars from the
fifteenth century. The modern art collection includes a group of portraits of Torun's burghers dating from the sixteenth to the first half of the
nineteenth century, of which the most valuable are a portrait of Nicholas Copernicus from the late sixteenth century, portraits of Polish kings that
decorate the Royal Hall of the Old Town Hall, Sarmatian portraits (from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries), and heraldic shields of
Torun's burgher families. The modern art collection including Polish painting and sculpture from the late eighteenth century to the present -
worthy of special attention are the paintings from the Young Poland period and the interwar period and the years 1945-1980. In the collection of
contemporary art, the works of Torun artists dominate, both those who came from Wilno (Vilnius) in 1945 (Bronislaw Jammont, Tymon
Niesiolowski) and many representatives of the younger generation who were associated with Torun's university. Works by Torun artists are
included in the collection of Polish sculpture of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. The graphics collection contains original graphics and
drawings, with clear thematic divisions: those about Torun, works depicting Poland or otherwise associated with Poland, works depicting foreign
scenes and portraits of prominent Poles and foreigners. Among the most important of these are an eighteenth century album of views of Torun
and a group of graphics from the nineteenth and twentieth centuries, including sketches by F. Kostrzewski, J. Matejko, S. Wyspianski and also a 2
significant collection of engravings by D. Chodowiecki. The collection also includes a contemporary Polish graphics. The artistic crafts collection
contains pieces from every branch of crafts from the fourteenth through the nineteenth centuries, whose most valuable exhibits are a collection
of mediaeval stained glass windows dating back to the fourteenth to sixteenth centuries, from churches in Chelmno and Torun; stained glass
panels from the sixteenth century with the heraldic shields of patrician families from Torun; European glass from the sixteenth through the
nineteenth centuries, including a cup from 1596 depicting the emperor and seven electors; architectural ceramics from Torun from the thirteenth
to the fifteenth centuries, including tiles from Torun and Gdansk; objects made of metal, including pieces made by goldsmiths in Torun and
Gdansk, and guild and liturgical vessels from the seventeenth through the nineteenth centuries. The "Treasure of Skrwilno", a trove of jewellery
found in Skrwilno in 1961, is particularly noteworthy. There are also tin, copper and brass objects from the seventeenth through the nineteenth
centuries, bronze items from the fifteenth to the eighteenth centuries, including an especially interesting metal door handle dating back to 1380
from the Cathedral Basilica of St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangelist/Devine from the Apengeter workshop. Also included in the
collection are wooden objects, such as furniture with intaglio made in Torun from the seventeenth century and gingerbread moulds from the
seventeenth to the nineteenth centuries; fabrics - Torun guild and military banners from the eighteenth to the nineteenth centuries.
Permanent exhibitions: "Gallery of Gothic Art," "Courtroom", "Old Torun: History and Artistic Crafts, 1233-1793," "Torun's Modern Sacred Art,"
"Treasure of Skrwilno: Secular Polish and Foreign Goldsmithery from the Collections of the District Museum in Torun," "Burgher Room with a
Gallery of Burgher Portraits from the Sixteenth through the Eighteenth Centuries," "Royal Room," "Gallery of Polish Art from the Late Eighteenth
Century to 1900," "Gallery of Polish Art from 1900-1939," and exhibitions organised in another area of the Town Hall, which are open to visitors
upon request: "Artistic Ceramics from the Collections of the District Museum in Torun," "Twentieth-Century Portraits from the Collections of the
District Museum in Torun".

郵政總局 Main Post Office

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新文藝復興風格之 Artus Court 文化中心， 原本於 1311~1842 年是聖喬治兄弟會(武士團)之總部，這也是 1466 年波蘭 King
Casimir Jagiellon 與條頓騎士團大公 Ludwig Erlichshausen 簽訂和約之所在；將條頓擁有的 Toruń, Gdańsk and Elbląg，納入波蘭領
土，創建了波蘭王國。
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Artus Court 文化中心內堂火爐的壁磚

傳說中托倫城中青蛙氾濫，幸虧有這位敢青蛙之提琴手有魔力解除此患
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點燈人與青蛙紀念噴泉 Monument of a lighterman and frogs

介在郵局和市政廳的舊城市集廣場有座噴水池 (波文:Studnia Flisak)，水池中間是位提琴手，周圍由噴水的青蛙所圍繞著，
偶爾會看到有鴿子和青蛙在接吻呢~而此小提琴手雕像的由來相信大家都聽過不同版本的(如:吹笛者)。而市政廳斜對面則
有驢子。故事是在一場大水災後，托倫是遭成群的青蛙給佔據，不論是屋頂、屋簷、長廊、樓梯，青蛙四處可見。市長
承諾能將青蛙趕走的人將贈與財富並把女兒嫁給他，許多人自告奮勇要驅逐青蛙但都無功而反，而有一名暗戀市長女兒
已久以撐筏為生的年輕人，雖然他貧窮又無名但他仍決定放手一博，一天他來到舊城的市集並拉起小提琴，令人驚訝地，
所有青蛙都被優美的琴聲迷住跟著年輕人離開城市進到森林中不再危害城市，市長雖然不情願但一言既出，承諾勢必兌
現，他便如願和市長女兒結婚，過著幸福的日子。 ( 譯自《Legendy i opowieści historyczne o Toruniu》, Beon Frąckowski)。
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左側為 1463~80 年哥白尼之老家( Nicolaus Copernicus Museum 博物館)， 屋頂則是荷蘭文藝復興之傳統紅磚階梯式山形牆之

式樣。又側則是商人之宅邸。這種階梯式山形牆屋脊 Stepped gable conceals 之建築於 13 世紀開始在北歐蔓延，特別是在漢
薩同盟的各港口城市；頂層主要是商家之倉庫。
The Nicholas Copernicus Museum - Copernicus House - The museum is housed in two small Gothic burgher houses - one of which used to be
a merchant's storage space, and the other the house where the scientist Nicholas Copernicus was born, adapted for use as a museum during
the years 1960-1963 and 1972-1973.
The museum collects materials about the life and work of Copernicus: a library, old prints and books from the time of Copernicus, various
editions of his work Revolutions of the Celestial Spheres and models of the astronomical instruments he used. The museum also has collections
of paintings and engravings of Copernicus, a collection of medals and postal stamps with Copernican themes, documents of social events
(programs of events, posters, calendars, postcards and stickers), materials from research on the cosmos that highlight Polish achievements in
the field, and objects of the material culture of Torun's fifteenth-century burgher class.
Permanent exhibitions: "Nicholas Copernicus: His Life and Work"; "Model of the City of Torun from the Time of Nicholas Copernicus" (a
light-sound projection, available in Polish, English, German, French, Spanish, Russian, and Italian

隨後，進入舊市政廳之市區博物館參觀
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19 世紀中葉就讀於華沙，而後於巴黎發展之波蘭山水畫家 Józef Szermentowski 所繪之風雨總在窮人的眼中( biednemu wiatr w

oczy，波蘭諺語象徵貧困)，1876 17

19 世紀中葉就讀於華沙，而後赴巴黎與慕尼黑發展之波蘭戰爭畫家，所繪之山野風暴前 Przod Burza , 1882

19 世紀中葉就讀於克拉克夫，赴維也納深造之波蘭畫家，所繪之山野風暴前 Powrot z jarmarku , 1884

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左圖 : 出生於波蘭，就讀於慕尼黑，遊歷於巴黎之 19 世紀末畫家 Stanisław Ludwik de Laveaux 之 Jadwiga Katkiewicz 人像畫, 1889

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波蘭當代之現代化派襪家 Tadeusz Brzozowski

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這博物館除展出畫作外，亦展出近代之工藝精品
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博物館另闢一專區，陳列中世紀之骨董

18 世紀中葉漢薩同盟之重要貿易港口 : 托倫港
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12~15 世紀在漢薩同盟各商埠間擔任海運之 Koga( Cog)單帆平底貨船 (23.3 x 7.6 x 25 m, 當然於戰時也充當戰船)，15 世紀則

開發載重兩倍更達 160 噸之 Holks；銷往法、英、荷、挪威之貨物清單包括銅、蠟、火山灰 ash、碳酸鉀 potash、柏油 Tar、
木材、毛皮、穀類；而由法、英輸入之貨物清單包括棉布、鹽、酒、胡椒、魚 (尤其是鯡魚 herring )；並由此銷往波蘭、
匈牙利、與俄羅斯。按現今之概念托倫是為一海陸轉口樞紐。
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窗台上之水手

博物館內也定期舉辦音樂會
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外牆上一戰盟軍之法蘭西元帥費迪南·福煦 Ferdynand Foch，被認為是波蘭之朋友，推動波蘭對德國之罷工