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LIZ FASHION INDUSTRY LIMITED

QUALITY MANUAL
Version 1.0

First Published: May, 2017

Composed by : Abdullah Al Mamun

(QMS Officer)
Authorized by: Larry Liu
Managing Director
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Message
Quality may be defined as the level of
acceptance of a goods or services. For the
textile and apparel industry, product quality is
calculated in terms of quality and standard of
fibers, yarns, fabric construction, color fastness,
designs and the final finished garments. In
Bangladesh, different garments factory follow
different quality control and management
systems especially different inspection systems
for garment inspection. This article contains
the quality control processes as well as quality
Management procedures followed by different
garment factory of Bangladesh and the
feasibility of these processes. Quality Control,
Quality Management, Garment, Garment
Defects, Inspection, AQL.

Larry Liu
Managing Director
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→ Table of Content
1 Introduction ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5
2 Objectives --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5
3 Importance of Quality ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5
4 Quality Management System (QMS) --------------------------------------------------------------- 6
4.1 Definition of QMS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6
4.2 Foundation of QMS ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 6
4.3 Elements of Management System -------------------------------------------------------------- 7
5 Minimum Requirements ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8
5.1 MR 1 (must be fulfilled before first order is placed - if applicable for the product type) ---------------------- 8
5.2 MR 2 (must be fulfilled before production of the first order starts - if applicable for the product type) ----- 8
5.3 MR 3 (general requirements, related with RQS, for all H&M group suppliers, to be settled as soon as
possible) ---- 8
5.4 MR 1 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9
5.5 MR 2 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10
6 Minimum Manufacturing Requirement----------------------------------------------------------- 11
6.1 Fabric --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11
6.2 Lining --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11
6.3 Padding/Filling --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11
6.4 Thread -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11
6.5 Seam Construction ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 11
6.6 Labels --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12
6.7 Button Hole -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12
6.8 Button -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13
6.9 Touch and close fasteners (Velcro) ------------------------------------------------------------ 13
6.10 Zipper ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14
6.11 Elastic ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14
6.12 Placket ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 14
6.13 Pocket ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14
6.14 Hem --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15
6.15 Print ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------15
6.16 Embroidery/Application ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 15
6.17 Additional Accessories ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 15
6.18 Hanger Loop ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16
6.19 Trimming --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16
6.20 Pressing ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16
6.21 Packing ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 16
6.22 Special Factors --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16
7 Policy ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17
7.1 Quality Policy ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17
7.1.1 Mission ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17
7.1.2Vision -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17
7.2 Needle Use Policy ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 17
7.3 Sharp Tools/Blade Control Policy ----------------------------------------------------------------- 18
7.4 Broken Needle Control Policy ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 19
8 Organization ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20
8.1 Main Organization Chart ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 20
8.2 Q.A Organization Chart ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 21
9 Process & Routine ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22
9.1 Process Flow Chart ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22
9.1.1 Fabric Store Process Flow Chart ----------------------------------------------------------- 22
9.1.2 Acc./Trims Store Process Flow Chart ----------------------------------------------------- 23
9.1.3 Cutting Process Flow Chart ----------------------------------------------------------------- 24
9.1.4 Padding Process Flow Chart ---------------------------------------------------------------- 25
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9.1.5 External Part Process Flow Chart --------------------------------------------------------- 26

9.1.6 Sewing Process Flow Chart ----------------------------------------------------------------- 27
9.1.7 Finishing Final Check Process Flow Chart ----------------------------------------------- 28
9.1.8 Finishing (Packing) Process Flow Chart --------------------------------------------------- 29

9.2 Quality Standard Operating Procedure --------------------------------------------------- 30

9.2.1 Fabric Inspection Procedure --------------------------------------------------------------- 30
9.2.2 Shrinkage Procedure ------------------------------------------------------------------------ 31
9.2.3 Shade Blanket Procedure ------------------------------------------------------------------- 32
9.2.4 Acc./Trim Inspection Procedure ---------------------------------------------------------- 33
9.2.5 Cutting Inspection Procedure -------------------------------------------------------------- 34
9.2.6 External Part Inspection Procedure ------------------------------------------------------- 34
9.2.7 Sewing Inspection Procedure --------------------------------------------------------------- 35
9.2.8 Final Check Procedure ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 36
9.2.9 Pull Test Procedure ------------------------------------------------------------------------- 37
9.3 Routines --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 40
9.3.1 External Part Routine -----------------------------------------------------------------------40
9.3.2 Routine for Reject Product ----------------------------------------------------------------- 40
9.3.3 Spot, Dirty and Oil Control Routine ------------------------------------------------------ 41
9.3.4 Needle Detector Routine ------------------------------------------------------------------- 42
9.3.5 Insect Prevention Routine ----------------------------------------------------------------- 42
9.3.6 Procedure of Super Dry Use --------------------------------------------------------------- 43
9.3.7 Moisture Control Routine ------------------------------------------------------------------ 44
9.3.8 Mold Prevention Routine ------------------------------------------------------------------- 45
10 Traffic Light System of Quality Assurance ---------------------------------------------------- 46
10.1 Definition -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 46
10.2 Summary of System --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 46
11 Defect Classification ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 47
12 Care Labels Symbol Information ---------------------------------------------------------------- 48
13 QA Reports ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 50
13.1 Fabric Quality Reports ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 50
13.2 Acc./Trims Quality Reports ----------------------------------------------------------------- 52
13.3 Cutting Quality Report ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 54
13.3 Sewing Quality Reports ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 55
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1. Introduction:

Each & every product features some special characteristics for which it is in demand
by consumer’s history of quality is as old as human civilization itself. Aristotle 2500
years ago defined quality as following.
Quality is the difference of product to products. It is the goodness & badness in a
product. This definition holds true till this date.

2. Objective:

Objective of this manual are:

1. To understand customer’s perspective of quality.

2. To provide better quality of products and services.
3. To provide good and save working environment to the workers, which include
human value, respect, justice, cleanliness, discipline and equality between workers
and others.
4. To implement quality control system with the aim to achieve zero defect level
through efficient management, research, development and continuous improvement.

3. Importance of Quality:

Every product must feature functional characteristics as well as some other aspects
related to its shape, size & design. Consumers always demand following expectations
of the purchased product.
The product must satisfy the consumer in terms of beauty, attractiveness, taste,
shape, design & longevity etc. Depending on the type of product.

A product devoid of quality has no demand among consumer & as such, has no sale
ability excellent quality characteristics enhances sale ability of the goods & are the
keys to profitability for the manufacture or the seller.
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4. Quality Management System (QMS)

4.1 Definition of Quality Management System (QMS)

A management system is the framework of policies/strategies, processes, routines

and responsibilities that organizations use to achieve their goals and fulfill customer
requirements.

It is a tool to successfully lead an organization in a structured and systematic way

and constantly improve the processes in order to increase customer satisfaction and
reach the goals of the organization.

In short, an efficient tool for the management to get where they want.

4.2 Foundation of Quality Management System

Quality Management System is based on the

PDCA tool.

PDCA (plan-do-check-act) is a commonly used

base of a repetitive four-step problem-solving
process typical for process improvement. This tool
is known as a flow diagram for learning and for
improvement of a product and a process.

Plan
Establish the objectives and processes necessary to
deliver results in accordance with the expected
output. The expected output is the focus, while the
completeness and accuracy of the specification is also part of the improvement.

Do
Execute the plan to achieve the objective.

Check
Measure the implementation and compare the output against the expected results to
find out the
differences.

Act
Analyze the differences to determine their cause. Each will be part of either one or
more of the P-D-C-A steps. Determine where to apply changes that will secure the
improvement.
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4.3 Elements of a Management System

H&M’s management system defines the PDCA steps with the same approach in its
own “Five Elements”
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5. Summary of Minimum Requirements

5.1 MR 1 (must be fulfilled before first order is placed – if applicable for the
product type)

• light box with all required lights and correct checking method.
• Fabric inspection system 4-p or similar
• Material inspection system if other material
• Broken needle policy
• Needle detector and metal free zone
• Safe Q machine – if Children orders
• Lock stitch machine
• Proper storage
• Acceptable quality level
• Latest versions of H&M Chemical Restrictions and Implementation Toolkit are
available, read, understood and distributed to concerned people.
• Someone is responsible for chemicals & compliance to H&M Chemical
Restrictions.
• Latest version of H&M Quality standards and requirements is read and
understood by concerned people.

5.2 MR 2 (must be fulfilled before production of the first order starts - if

applicable for the product type)

• Shrinkage control for adjusting production patterns

• Pre-production meeting
• Process control system
• Colour continuity control
• AQL according to our demands
• Independent quality team
• Mould prevention
• Insect prevention
• Nickel test
• Sample control and Sample report
• Duplicate counter sample

5.3 MR 3 (general requirements, related with RQS, for all H&M group
suppliers, to be settled as soon as possible)

• Sample responsible
• Sample procedure acc. to Sample Guideline (autumn 2013)
• Production sample
• How to measure
• Responsibility to ensure H&M Group requirements are followed by material
suppliers
• Quality assurance
• Minimum manufacturing requirements for applicable product types
• Minor – major – critical defects
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5.4 Minimum Requirements MR-1

Is all colour matching done in a light box with grey non-shiny walls, and
4.1.1 MR1
possibility of total darkness?
Does the light box contain H&M Shop light TL83, Daylight D65, A-light and
4.2.1 MR1
UV light specified in Color guideline?
Are the tubes used in pairs and 4 lights bulbs 40W for Alight for good light
4.2.2 level – or is lux value min 1500 lux?(daylight/TL83 min 1000-1300 ok, A-light MR1
min 800-1000 ok)
Is the fabric checked acc.? To Fabric inspection guideline 4-point system or
5.2.1 MR1
similar (by 2 persons max. 2 hours without break w. records kept?
Does the supplier visually inspect a minimum of 10% of the bulk fabric, min.
5.2.2 MR1
1000 m, representing all colours and dye lots?
For heavy/fine knit, socks, does the supplier have a method of yarn inspection
5.3.1 MR1
representing all colours and dye lots with records kept?
For other materials, does the supplier have an efficient method of material
5.5.1 MR1
inspection repr. All colours (and lots, if any) with records kept?
Are all goods stored w. good air circulation/controlled humidity, off the
5.6.2 MR1
floor/away fr. walls, covered when needed/not stacked too high?
Does babies’ and children’s garments suppliers/factories have a Safe Q button
6.4.1 MR1
and accessory testing machine?
Are all accessories like buttons, rivets, etc. tested for 90N fastness every 4th
6.4.2 MR1
hour during production?
Are tested garments permanently marked on front w. Date, Time, Signature,
6.4.3 Machine no and kept separately from bulk production in locked container, MR1
available for HM staff and destroyed after 6 months?
Are all goods stored w. good air circulation/ controlled humidity, off the floor/
6.5.2 MR1
away from walls, covered when needed/ not stacked too high?
Latest version of H&M Quality standards & requirements is read and
7.1.3 MR1
understood by concerned people.

9.7.1 Is HM Broken ndl and Sharp objects policy or similar followed? MR1
Is needle detection made according to Guideline for needle and sharp objects
11.2.1 MR1
control?
10.2.1 Are all buttons sewn with lockstitch machine? MR1

11.2.2 Is needle detector 9 point calibrated minimum 3 times a day? MR1

After detection, are the products held separate in a “metal free zone” in the
11.2.3 MR1
packing area?
11.2.4 Are rejected goods kept in a locked box? MR1
Are all finished goods stored country wise on pallets with good air circulation
11.3.1 MR1
and away from the walls?
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5.5 Minimum Requirements MR-2

Do the independent QC teams work totally independent from the production team and
1.6.1 MR2
report directly to the top management?

Does the HM Sample responsible make sample control & create a sample report incl.
2.2.1 MR2
comments reg. all unclear points, sent w. sample to PO?

Are duplicate counter samples available in all production units and departments, marked
2.4.2 MR2
with o/n/ seal no/ comments/ date?

Are colours/ shades controlled by colour continuity records w. shades/ families of shades
4.3.1 sorted and marked into planned country, after checking dye lot to dye lot, within a dye MR2
lot and within a roll?
Garment washed/ fused products: Are shrinkage tests of bulk fabric/yarn, all colours and
5.4.2 MR2
lots, done prior to cutting/knitting w. records kept?

Garment washed/ fused products: Are cutting/knitting patterns adjusted w. correct

5.4.3 MR2
shrinkage all., if needed several diff., prior to cutting/knitting?

6.1.4 Do the supplier perform nickel test acc. To HM instructions? MR2

Is supplier conducting pre-production meetings, style by style, with all persons involved
9.2.1 MR2
before and during the production attending?
Does supplier have a process control system as described in RQS or similar/ also for
9.4.1 MR2
other parts e.g. embroidery, linking etc.

11.4.2 Are all goods dry and clean when packed? MR2

11.4.3 Is factory warehouses dry and with good ventilation? MR2

Is insect´s net used in finishing area/ packing area/ metal free zone and to close/ cover
11.5.1 MR2
doors and windows?

11.5.2 Are goods kept off the floor during production? MR2

Are food kept, and eating done in designated areas only and factories including;
11.5.3 MR2
washrooms, kitchen and lunch room kept clean and dry?
Does supplier follow AQL/ sampling plan acc. to brand, random from finishing in all
12.4.1 MR2
size, colours and countries acc. to size break down/ records kept?
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6. Minimum Manufacturing Requirement

6.1 Fabric

• be suitable for the intended use and treatments

• follow order specifications with respect to weight/width/construction/fiber
composition/design/color/special treatments/hand feel

6.2 Lining

• have a suitable quality for the fabric/product/wash

• have suitable size and shape when wearing/using, e.g. dart
• be color matched, if no other instruction has been given
• have correct width on seam allowance to avoid seam slippage
• be properly attached
• have over lock when the lining is not fully attached
• be attached with a tape in the armhole and allow enough space to move

6.3 Padding/ Filling

• be suitable and durable for intended use/ product/ treatment and wash
• be clean and free from smell
• be resistant to yellowing and must not discolor the product
• follow instruction given for quality/ weight/ composition/ blend/ color/
treatment and hand feel
• have correct thickness/ width/ density and resilience/ bounce back (elasticity)
• when needed be filled in chambers/ pockets/ tunnels
• have the weight of filling/ padding adjusted to the size and actual part of the
product
• be evenly distributed in the product and/ or in the pockets/ channels
• be properly attached (padding)
• use correct coating or nonwoven or woven layer when needed, to prevent filling/
padding from being exposed on the inner/outer side of the product
• have suitable size and shape when wearing/ using the product

6.4 Thread

• be suitable for the material/ product/ lining and accessories

• be ok after treatments and wash
• when matching to fabric, never be in lighter shade, if no other instruction has been
given
• have breaking strength and elasticity adjusted to material and stitching type
• use a quality suitable for the type of stitching used
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• be shrink resistant/ color fast and have suitable thickness

• never be transparent filament single thread

6.5 Seam construction

• correct needles for the fabric/product

• no needles with blunt point, to avoid fabric damage
• stitch density shall be between 3,5-4,5 stitches/cm, 9-11 stitches/inch and suitable
for the specific product and thread
• suitable thread tension
• even and equal stitch length
• minimum of 8 mm seam allowance after over-locking
• even seam allowance
• over lock on all exposed seams or covered with binding/ tape, if no other
instruction has been given
• suitable seam constructions, to avoid seam slippage
• no puckering /stretched out seams, if no other instruction has been given
• 2-needle sewing machine for 2-needle top stitches, if no other instruction has been
given
• no joint stitches at visible areas

6.6 Labels

• always have origin color and have readable text after wash or other treatments
• if there is a risk for cross staining, discoloration or damage of the label, always
cover the label by plastic before treatment or attached the label in the product after
the treatment
• cotton neck label on Baby & Children garments must be sewn on with no
possibility of label to unravel.

6.7 Button hole

• be suitable for the type of fabric/product/wash

• have matching thread color with fabric/top stitches, if no other instruction has
been given
• be sewn/placed according to the order instructions
• be sewn with sufficient density
• be stitched through minimum 2 layers of fabric and if needed (e.g. thin, silky,
delicate, open weave fabrics) with suitable fusing.
• be clean and nice
• recommended to pre-stitch around buttonhole before sewing in elastic fabrics
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6.8 Button

Below listed requirements are general and must always be tested on a mock-up for
the actual product/ material before production starts!
• be sewn on minimum 2 layers of fabrics, and if needed (e.g. thin, silky, delicate,
open weave fabrics) with suitable fusing.
One more layer from main fabric is sometimes enough instead of fusing, but wearing
test must be done if sensitive fabrics!
• 10-14 stitches for 2-hole button depending on size of button and thickness of
thread.
Example:
adult garments: 10 for normal button, 14 for big button
Baby & Children garments buttons must withstand 90 N
7-10 x2 stitches for 4-hole button depending on size of button and thickness of
thread.
Example:
Adult garments: 7+7 for normal button, 10+10 for big button
Baby & Children garments buttons must withstand 90 N
• be sewn with poly/poly core spun yarn on
o outerwear garments,
o metal- and heavy buttons on all garments
(if no specific requirement due to e.g. garment dying etc.)
• All other garment types: poly/poly core spun yarn is strongly recommended, but 3
ply thread is also accepted
• when machine stitched, always be attached with lock-stitch machine, if no other
instruction has been given.
• when hand sewn, always be securely stitched on with minimum 4 stitches/double
thread and finally fastened with 3 stitches and a knot
• when shank button, always be attached through minimum 2 layers of fabric on
lockstitch machine. If not possible with lockstitch machine it must be secured by
hand after machine sewn. Depending on the type/size of the button, metal or heavy
buttons must be secured with a wrapping around the shank
• all uncut threads on the buttons and shanks must be carefully trimmed, 3-5 mm is
accepted
• be suitable for fabric/product/wash
• be sewn on/placed according to the order instructions
• have no sharp edges
• be color fast

6.9 Touch and close fasteners (Velcro)

• be suitable for the material/ product/ treatment

• be in correct size/ quality, according to instructions
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• have no sharp edges

• be correctly positioned and completely overlapping
• withstand products wear and wash

6.10 Zipper

• be in correct length/width/quality/color according to the order specification

• be suitable for the style/fabric/wash
• have a slider that is easy to pull up and down , and stays clear of seam
• have auto lock or semi lock for bottoms
• have plastic stoppers on cord fitted coil zippers
• avoid fabric damage/puckering
• not use a concealed/ invisible/hidden zipper on:
o tight fitted products
o stretch fabric on tight fitted products
o uneven layer or thick layer of fabric

6.11 Elastic

• have suitable elasticity

• be in a quality that retains elasticity
• be pre-shrunk
• be relaxed at least 24 hours before used in production
• have heat cut edges when necessary

6.12 Placket

• be properly stitches
• be straight and even
• cover under part, if no other instruction has been given

6.13 Pocket

• have correct size/grading and placement, according to instructions.

• use suitable reinforcement, important for heavy washed products
• have secure stitches/ bar tacks at openings
• have pocket lining suitable for the material/ product
• have correct seam allowance and be covered with over-lock/ French seam or
binding on the pocket bag
• be symmetrically placed, if no other instruction has been given
• have pocket bags attached in such way that it is given enough space to move when
needed, using e.g. tape/ stitch
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• secure stitch aimed for delivery purpose, must be loose and easy to remove on
product

6.14 Hem

• be even in width
• be flat without twisting/pleats
• not have visible blind stitches on the product’s face side, if no other instruction has
been given.

6.15 Print

• be suitable for the fabric/product/wash

• follow the artwork
• be correctly positioned, according to the instructions
• be properly graded
• have the correct hand feel, according to the order

6.16 Embroidery/application

• follow the artwork

• be correctly positioned, according to instructions
• be properly graded
• have fusing removed at backside or have a clean edge on fusing, depending on
instructions
• when machine embroidered, have securely fastened threads with lockstitch and
threads trimmed at backside
• when hand embroidered, have securely fastened thread with a knot and at least 1cm
thread left after trimming the inside
• have maximum 3 cm of floating threads on backside
• withstand product’s wear and wash

6.17 Additional accessories

• be correctly positioned, according to the artwork/specification

• be color fast
• not damage the product when attached
• when a loose belt, be fastened with a pin tag, stitches etc.
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6.18 Hanger loop

• be suitable for the fabric/ product/ treatment and wash

• be correctly attached, according to the instructions
• be color fast

6.19 Trimming

• have no loose/uncut threads on the ready product, inside/outside, 3-5 mm is

accepted

6.20 Pressing

• always use vacuum table when ironing

• never leave iron marks
• be ironed/pressed according to the quality of fabric/style

6.21 Packing

• not fold/ pack product until completely dry

• not fold/ pack product until completely free from e.g. loose threads, soil/ dirt, dust
• always look that the general impression of the product is fine before packaging

6.22 Special factors

• final products must be according to M-list and approved counter sample

• shrinkage is not included in our paper patterns
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7. Policy

7.1 Quality Policy

7.1.1 Mission:

Liz Fashion Industry Limited is committed to providing the highest quality services
with ensure customer’s expectation and timely delivery.

7.1.2 Vision:

• Secure 100% Safe Product.

• Customer Satisfaction.

• No Mistake, Best Result.

7.2 Needle Use Policy

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 2. m~P e¨env‡ii LvZv wbwWj g¨vb i¶bv‡e¶b Kwi‡e Ges wbwWj iæg nB‡Z m~P †d¬vi G
e¨env‡ii Rb¨ †`Iqv nB‡e|
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wnmve ivL‡e|
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 5. wb‡Wj MvW© Ges AvB MvW© †h mKj ¯’v‡b cÖ‡hvR¨ †m mKj ¯’v‡b Aek¨B e¨envi Kwi‡Z
nB‡e|
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mn jvB‡b ivLv ev· wb‡q mieivn kvLvq Rgv Kwi‡e|
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m~P Gi Ask jvMv‡Z n‡e Ges cÖ‡Z¨K †d¬v‡i GB LvZv msi¶b Kwi‡Z nB‡e|
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n‡e|
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7.3 Sharp Tools / Blade Control Policy

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†KvW Ae KÛv± ) Abyhvqx cwiPvwjZ Ges G Abyhvqx †Kv¤úvbx cwiPvjbv Ki‡Z wM‡q AÎ d¨v±ix †ek
wKQz bxwZgvjv Abymib K‡i _v‡K| evqvi‡`i Pvwn`v Ges kªwgK‡`i wbivcËv weav‡bi j‡ÿ¨ ÒwjR
d¨vkb BÛvwóª wjtÓ wb‡gœv³ bxwZgvjv AbymiY K‡i|

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Kvixi bvg / AvBwW wj‡L wPwýZ Kiv _vK‡e| †Kvb Ae¯’vqB GK R‡bi aviv‡jv hš¿vsk w`‡q Ab¨Rb
KvR Ki‡e bv|

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z
_vK‡e|

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`vwqZ¡kx‡ji wbKU Rgv ivL‡Z n‡e|

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ivL‡Z n‡e hv‡Z c‡o wM‡q kix‡ii †Kvb Ask AvnZ bv nq|

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BZ¨vw` †gwk‡bi †eøW / bvBd bó n‡q †M‡j Zv wbw`©ó `vwqZ¡kx‡ji wbKU Rgv w`‡q †iwRóv‡i †iKW©
fz³ K‡i Zv msiÿY Ki‡Z n‡e Ges bZzb †eøW / bvBd Bmy Ki‡Z n‡e|

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msiÿY Ki‡Z n‡e|
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7.4 Broken Needle Policy

The operator must immediately inform one of the superiors close to her/him. It can
be a supervisor, a production executive, an assistant production Manager.
The operator raises one arm and does not leave the chair until assistance arrives
• The superior brings a magnet and search after needle parts on the operator.
• If the needle parts are not found, the machine must be searched with help from
the magnet. Continue with the surroundings, floor, tables and garment parts on
the machine.
• If the needle parts are still not found, a mechanic must help and search inside the
machine.
• If after the above procedure the needle parts are not found, the area around the
machine and all garments and garment parts within an area of 2 meter radius must
be searched.
• If needle parts still are not found, all garments and garment parts within the area
of 2m radius must be picked up and placed in a sealed bag/locked box, and brought
to a Needle Detector. A Hand Needle Detector (ND) can be used, if no other ND is
available.
• The garments, garment parts that will pass the ND can be reused.
• Always when ND responds to one or some garments/garment parts, those pieces
MUST BE DESTROYED, even though the needle parts are not found in the
garments/garment parts.
• All needle parts must be attached in a “broken needle book” by the person
All needle parts must be attached in a “broken needle book” by the person
responsible for the broken needle policy in the factory. H&M personnel must have
access to this documentation.
• Knitting machine needles, linking points, tagging gun needles must have the same
documented control system.

Only when all parts of the broken needle are found, a new needle will be issued.
 Page 20 of 56

8.1 Main Organization Chart

Organization Chart
Managing Director

General Manager

HR, Admin Accounts Merchandisin Engineering/ R.Q.S NQC Q.A.D R &D QMS Production Store
& Compliance g Maintenance

Sr. Accountant NQC Officer

HR & Admin
Compliance Engineering Maintenance
RQS Head
Asst. RQS
Sr. Merchandiser Safety Cutting Sewing Finishing
Sr. Manager
(HR, & Merchandiser Manager (Project)
Compliance) Asst. Electrical Technician Q.M
Medical Officer Merchandiser Boiler Operator Sr. Q.C/QC Line Chief
Sr.Compl. Officer Generator Operator A.Q.C Supervisor
HR & Compl. Plumber Q.I Sewing Input
Officer Manager-Administration Sewing Iron Man
Compressor Operator AQC (External Part)
Admin Officer Security In-charge S.S.M.O
Welfare Officer S.M.O
Security Supervisor
Prodn. Manager J.S.M.O
HR Officer Lady Checker
Sewing Tech. G.S.M.O
HR Asst. Security Guard A.S.M.O
Nurse Janitor Asst. Mgr. R&D
Mechanical In-Charge NQT(sample Inc)
House Keeping Sup. Sr. Mechanic/Mechanic
Driver I/E In-Charge Finishing In-Charge
Office Asst. I/E Officer Supervisor
Cook IE Asst. Packer Man
Canteen Boy Cad Marker Folding Man
Child attendant Pattern Master Finishing Asst.
Cutting Manager Sample Supervisor Spot Man
Cleaner Cutting In-Charge
Sweeper Sample Man
Cutting Supervisor Cutter Man Store In-Charge
Cutting Technician Lab Tech/Asst Lab Tech Store Officer
Cutting Input Man Needle Man
Laser Operator Store Assistant
Delivery Man
Cutting Assistant Store Loader
 Page 21 of 56

8.2 Quality Organization Chart

Q.A Organization Chart

Managing Director

General Manager

Q.C Manager R.Q.S. Asst. RQS NQC QMS

Officer
Sewing Q.C Store A.Q.C Finishing Q.C External Part AQC Cutting Q.C

All Q.I All Quality Inspector Embroidery Print Wash

All Quality
A.Q.C Inspector
A.Q.C A.Q.C A.Q.C A.Q.C A.Q.C

All. All. All. All. All. All.

Q.I Q.I Q.I Q.I Q.I Q.I
 Page 22 of 56

9. Process & Routine

9.1 Process Flow Chart

9.1.1 Fabric Store Process Flow Chart

Fabric receive from supplier

Inventory and keep record

Blanket cutting & making from 100%

receive roll

Fail Fail Inform to concern

Shrinkage & Twisting Follow
test merchandiser &
FTD
supplier
Pass
Pass

10% inspection on 4 Fail Fail

15% 100%
point system & 100%
ins. for 1000 meter more Inspection

Pass

Inform to concern
merchandiser &
Shade segregate supplier
Fail
Pass
& make color
continuity control
Fail
Inform to concern
Pass merchandiser & send to
buyer for approval
Side to side and
side to middle

Pass Fail

Shade wise fabric storage with

bin card

Fabric issue for cutting

 Page 23 of 56

9.1.2 Acc./Trims Store Process Flow Chart

Accessories/Trims received from

supplier

Inventory and keep record

Nickel test
Fail Inform merchandiser &
return to supplier

Pass

Ferrous & color Fail Inform merchandiser &

bleeding test return to supplier

Pass

Metal detection test Fail

Inform merchandiser &
through metal detector return to supplier

Pass

AQL 1.5/ 10% Fail

Inform merchandiser to get
inspection with approval approval from buyer or
trim card return to supplier

Pass

Storage with bin card

Supply to sewing/finishing
 Page 24 of 56

9.1.3 Cutting Process Flow Chart

Cut projection & fabric swatch received from

merchandising dept.

Pattern collect from CAD

Fabric receive from store

(shade, country & P.O wise)

Fabric relax (If spandex)

Discrepancy
Marker receive and check
with pattern
Send to CAD for readjust

Pass

Marker setting and lay (keep 2-3yds

fabric from each roll for re-cut)

Fail Inform to cutting concern

First, middle & last cutting
panel check
and send defective parts for
rectify
Pass

Cut panel send to numbering area

Fail
Inform to cutting concern
100% cut panel and return defective parts for
check replace
Pass

Bundling roll by roll

Each bundling group keep in one bag and send to

delivery rack

Issue to sewing P.O wise

 Page 25 of 56

9.1.4 Padding Process Flow Chart

Receive padding from store

Padding relaxation (24 hours)

Padding spread

Manual marking on padding

Lay cutting and finishing

Fail Recheck, if not found

Metal Detection
any metal then recut

Pass

Bundling and keep in the delivery

rack

Issue to sewing line

 Page 26 of 56

9.1.5 External Part Process Flow Chart

Receive Print/Emb. From supplier

Collect approved art work, pattern &

sample

Print Embroidery

Inform
Check style, shade Fail merchandiser Fail Check style, thread
& position with & return to color & position
buyer approval print/emb. for with buyer
rectify

Pass Pass

Inform
Fail merchandiser Fail 100% metal
Wash test & return to check by metal
print/emb. detector

Pass Pass

Segregate
100% Quality Fail defect parts & Fail 100% Quality
check return for check
rectify

Pass Pass

Send to cutting/sewing for

next process
 Page 27 of 56

9.1.6 Sewing Process Flow Chart Cut panel received from cutting

Panel marking

Single process make

Return to concern Fail

Process check
operator for rectify
Pass

Label attached

All shell part joint and top stitch

Lining part joint

Return to concern Fail

Process check
operator for rectify
Pass

Shell and lining joint

Button attached

Trimming & Mark remove

Return to concern Fail

100% Inspection
operator for rectify
Pass

Send to finishing final check area

 Page 28 of 56

9.1.7 Finishing Final Check Process Flow Chart

Goods received from sewing

Style check by Approved Fail Inform to QM/PM &

sample return to sewing for
rectify
Pass

Fail
100% Inside check

Pass

Fail Return to concern

100% Topside check operator for rectify

Pass

Fail Inform QI & return to

100% Getup check concern operator for
rectify
Pass

Discrepancy
Inform to Quality
100% Key point concern & return for
measurement rectify
Pass

Fail Return to LBL joint

100% Label check operator for LBL
replacement
Pass

Fail Return to
Lot wise AQL-1.5 QI for Re-audit
Recheck
Pass
Pass

Send to packing
 Page 29 of 56

9.1.8 Finishing (Packing) Process Flow Chart

Garments receive from final check area

Size segregate (style, P.O & color wise)

Attached hang tag & price tag

Metal search by hand metal

Garments pass Fail
detector. If found then rectify or if
not found then keep in lock box and
through Metal
after 12 month garments are
destroyed
Pass

Fail
Price tag & hang tag Return to concern person for
random check tag replace

Pass

Garments folding as per folding approval

Garments pack with poly bag

Assortment as per buyer requirement

Garments packed in the carton

Fail
Carton return to packer man
Carton Audit
for rectify
Pass

Country wise storage in CTN warehouse

Waiting for final inspection

 Page 30 of 56

9.2 Quality Standard Operating Procedure

9.2.1 Fabric Inspection Procedure

 Fabric receive from fabric supplier

 Fabric inventory & keep the record
 Collect fabric supplier inspection report 100%
 All colours & shades must be checked in a light box against the colour standered
& the aprove sample by two person (D65, TL83, a & UV Light).
 Take 10% fabric for inspection on 4 point

4 point system fabric inspection

 1st fabric inspection for 10% if fail then again 15%.

 If 2nd fabric inspection fail then inspection will be 100%.
 If fabric is less than 1000 meter and multi brand order then inspection will be
100%
 The fabric inspection must be either be alternateed between 2 people every 2
hours, or a break scheduled every 2nd hour, inorder to make a proper judjments &
to avoid fatigue.
 Overhead & transmitted lighting minimum 1000 lux.

Fabric inspection calculation formula

Individual roll point:

Roll point × 100 × 36 ÷ inspected yards × cuttable width (inch) = % yards

Average points for inspected lot:

Total roll point × 100 × 36 ÷ total inspected yards × cut able width (inch) = % yards

Acceptable point for woven fabric:

Fabric type Point per 100 m2 Point per 100 yd2

Ave. Shipment Individual roll Ave. Shipment Individual roll

Worsted wool 12 15 10 13

Synthetic (polyester, polyamide, 15 20 13 17

acrylic, lyell, modal, viscos)

Corduroy 28 33 25 30

Other nature(cotton, linen, silk, 20 26 18 24

cashmere)
 Page 31 of 56

 Make report during fabric inspection.

 Compare the fabric supplier report with the factory fabric inspection report, if
found discrepancy then need to inform GM, QM & Merchandiser
 If fabric inspection fail then this roll keep separately in the rejection area &
inform to GM, QM & Merchandiser for replace to fabric supplier.
 Fabric inspection record s/b kept minimum 12 months.

9.2.2 Shrinkage Procedure

 Shrinkage s/b 10% for cotton & 100% for denim & elastin fabric.

 Shrinkage fabric s/b length 70 cm and width 70 cm.

 Write roll no, yards, style name, order no on shrinkage fabric.

 Four side mark distance s/b 50 cm by pen or sewing track & keep measurement
record before wash.

 Outside s/b over lock.

 Wash

 Shrinkage check & keep measurement record after wash

 Shrinkage report.

 Pattern adjust according to shrinkage. If needed then make shrinkage wise

pattern set.

For non-wash gmts shrinkage procedure

 If non wash gmts then need 10% shrinkage test (50x50 cm) by steam & iron.

 Take measurement & keep records b4 & after steam & iron.

 Need to make laundry wash from 1st initial size set & keep records b4 & after
wash.

 If any variations found then need to inform quality responsible, merchandiser &
H&M.
 Page 32 of 56

9.2.3 Shade Blanket Procedure

 Shade blanket procedure

 Blanket s/b 100% from rcv roll & blanket qty s/b 3 set

 Length and width s/b 20 cm and fabric s/b one way.

 Blanket sewing point s/b even and one way.

 If have wash so s/b wash. One set non wash, two set wash

 Blanket shade s/b check with approval lab dip, counter sample, wash standard
and it s/b check in the d65, tl83, a light by minimum 2 persons.

 Shade band summery with report

 Color continuity control record

 Shade s/b separate country wise.

 Country plan send to cutting, sewing & packing.

 Packing s/b one country one shade.

 Color continuity records s/b keep for 6 month.

 If not match the shade blanket shade with counter sample, lab dip, & wash
standard then need to check with H&M for advice.

9.2.4 Acc./Trim Inspection Procedure

1| G‡KªmwiR msµvšÍ GKB ai‡bi mgm¨v Accessories common defect display board G jvMv‡bv
_vK‡e|
2| †÷vi †KvqvwjwU B݇c±‡ii KvR ïiæ Kivi c~‡e© wb‡¤œv³ welq¸‡jv _vK‡Z n‡e|
 ‡Uwe‡ji Dci ch©vß Av‡jv Av‡Q wKbv|
 Aby‡gvw`Z wUªg KvW© cixÿv K‡i †KvqvwjwU Ges eªvÛ wbwðZ nIqv|
 eywKs kxU †PK Kiv|
 G‡KªmwiR Gi Bbf‡qQ, c¨vwKs wjó Ges hw` †Kvb †Uó wi‡cvU© _v‡K Zv cixÿv K‡i †`Lv|
3| wb‡Kj †Uó I dªvQ †Uó Ki‡Z n‡e|
4| mKj †gUvj G‡K&ªmwiR I ‡j`vi/wcD †cP †gUvj wW‡U±i ‡gwkb w`‡q mwVK fv‡e hvq wKbv Zv ‡Uó Ki‡Z
n‡e|
5| 10% ev 1.5 G.wKD.Gj G gvjvgvj wb‡q Aby‡gvw`Z wUªg KvW© Gi mv‡_ wgwj‡q †`L‡Z n‡e|
 Page 33 of 56

6| bgybvK…Z gvjvgv‡ji g‡a¨ AQL Abyhvqx mgm¨v †ekx cvIqv ‡M‡j gvi‡PÛvBRvi/mvcøvBqv‡ii Kv‡Q Rvbv‡Z
n‡e|
d¬vU c¨vwKs c¨vivwgUvit
evUb t Kvjvi, ‡kc, †nvj Ges mvBR
cwj e¨vM t mvBR †nvjm, IqviwWs Ges w_K‡bm
AvB‡jUm t ‡kc mvBR Ges G¨vwcqv‡iÝ
Wª KW© t Kvjvi †jš’ mvBR, ivbvi Ges G¨vwcqv‡iÝ
wRcvi t Kvjvi †÷Bb_ Ges DB`_
BjvmwUK t Kvjvi †÷Bb_ Ges DB`_
‡KvW t Kvjvi wK¬‡bm Ges w_K‡bm
n¨vsMvi t Kvjvi mvBR ûK †÷Bb_ Ges w_K‡bm
n¨vs U¨vK t Kvjvi mvBR ûK †÷Bb_ Ges w_K‡bm
‡gBb †j‡ej t IqviwWs G
& ¨vwcqv‡iÝ Ges mvBR
‡Kqvi †j‡ej t IqviwWs G
& ¨vwcqv‡iÝ K‡¤úvwRmvb Ges m¨v¤új
mvBR †j‡ej t IqviwWs Ges G¨vwcqv‡iÝ

Name/Flag ‡j‡ej t IqviwWs Ges G¨vwcqv‡iÝ

‡fj‡µv t Width Kvjvi Ges G¨vwcqv‡iÝ

U¨vM wcb t w_K‡bm †jš’ Ges Kvjvi
‡_ªWm t Kvjvi bv¤^vi Ges w_K‡bm

wmwjKv †Rj t Weight

7| ÷¨vÛvW© c¨vwKs †PK c¨vivwgUvit
cwj e¨vM t w_K‡bm
jK cwj t Kvjvi w_K‡bm Ges †nvj
evi †KvW n¨vs UvK t ‡KvW bv¤^vi

CTN w÷Kvi t evi †KvW bv¤^vi

wc wc Mvg †Uc t Kvjvi Ges DB_

gvóvi CTN t wcÖ›U Ges wkwcs gvK©

8| cixÿv wbixÿv K‡i Accessories Check/Test Report wbw`ó di‡g msiÿY Ki‡Z n‡e|
 Page 34 of 56

9.2.5 Cutting Inspection Procedure

1| Kv‡Ri RvqMvq Av‡jv wVKgZ Av‡Q wKbv Zv wbwðZ Ki‡Z n‡e|

2| ‡cÖvWvKkb wmwWDj †PK Ki‡Z n‡e|

3| ‡UKwbK¨vj †mKkb †_‡K Pattern msMÖn K‡i Shrinkage Test Gi wi‡cv‡U©i mv‡_ wgwj‡q †`L‡Z n‡e|

4| Marker msMÖn Ki‡Z n‡e Ges Pattern Gi mv‡_ wgwj‡q †PK Ki‡Z n‡e| mgm¨v cvIqv †M‡j readjust
Gi Rb¨ CAD G cvVv‡Z n‡e|

5| Fabric Lay ‡`Iqvi c‡i First, Middle & Last cutting panel †PK Ki‡Z n‡e| mgm¨v cvIqv †M‡j
rectify Gi Rb¨ cvVv‡Z n‡e|

6| Numbering Kivi ci 100% cutting panel ‡PK Ki‡Z n‡e| mgm¨v cvIqv †M‡j DaŸ©Zb Kg©KZ©v‡K
Rvwb‡q part replace Gi Rb¨ cvVv‡Z n‡e Ges †iKW© ivL‡Z n‡e|

9.2.6 External Part Inspection Procedure

1| wKDwm †Uwej‡K Kg©‡cv‡hvMx Ki‡Z cÖWvKkb wmwWDj, evqvi Aby‡gv`b BZ¨vw` wbwðZ Ki‡Z n‡e|

2| Aby‡gvw`Z AvU© IqvK©, m¨v¤új Gi Kvjvi †mW, †gRvi‡g›U, cwRkb Ges wK ai‡bi G¤^ªqWvix/wcÖ›U
Zvnv cixÿv Ki‡Z n‡e|

3| G¤^ªqWvix/wcÖ›U †_‡K Cut panel msMÖn Ki‡Z n‡e|

4| 100% ‡KvqvwjwU †PK Ki‡Z n‡e|

5| mgm¨v n‡j G¨v‡iv wóKvi jvwM‡q Avjv`v ivL‡Z n‡e|

6| mgvavb †hvM¨ mgm¨v n‡j G¤^ªqWvix/wcÖ›U G cvVv‡Z n‡e GKB mv‡_ Da©Zb KZ„©cÿ‡K AewnZ Ki‡Z
n‡e|

7| mg¯Í Kvh©µ‡gi wi‡cvU© Embroidery/Print Inspection Report Form G msiÿY Ki‡Z

n‡e|
 Page 35 of 56

9.2.7 Sewing Inspection Procedure

1| GKB ai‡bi mgm¨v mg~n Sewing common defect display board G weeib mn msiÿY Ki‡Z
n‡e|
2| w`‡bi ïiæ‡ZB myBs wKD wm cÖwZwU †gwk‡bi A‡qj wj‡KR †PK Ki‡e mn †iKW© Ki‡e|
3| evBs nvDR †_‡K Aby‡gvw`Z Ges mieivnK…Z m¨v¤új AW©vi wmU wUªg KvW© †UKwbK¨vj K‡g›Um BZ¨vw` msMÖn
Ki‡Z n‡e|
4| †gRvi‡g›U †PK K‡i †gRvi‡g›U †PK dig G ‡iKW© msiÿY Ki‡Z n‡e|
5| c¨vUvb© Gi mv‡_ mvBR †mU wiwfD K‡i †iKW© msiÿb Ki‡Z n‡e|
6| mswkøó wefv‡Mi cÖwZwbwa mn cÖvK Drcv`b mfv K‡i wb¤œ³ †iKW© mg~n mn mfvi weeibx msiÿY Ki‡Z n‡e|
 PP meeting minutes with technical inspection report.
 Attendence sheet for pre-production meeting.
7| jvB‡b Aby‡gvw`Z Wywcø‡KU KvD›Uvi m¨v¤új, wUªg KvW© Ges †UKwbK¨vj wW‡UBjm Szjv‡Z n‡e|
8| AW©vi wmU/†¯úwmwd‡Kkb wmU †hgb- AW©vi cwigvb, mvBR †eªKWvDb, †gRv‡g©›U Ujv‡iÝ BZ¨vw` †PK Ki‡Z
n‡e †Kvb cwieZ©b cvIqv ‡M‡j DaŸ©Zb KZ„©c‡ÿi mv‡_ Av‡jvPbv Ki‡Z n‡e|
9| †Kvb welq K‡g›Um _vK‡j mswkøó mKj‡K AewnZ Ki‡Z n‡e|
10| w÷wPs, †j‡ej †cøm‡g›U, evUb †cøm‡g›U, wcÖ›U/Ggeª‡qvWvix cwRkb BZ¨vw` †PK Ki‡Z n‡e Ges evUb wKsev
Wªw÷ªs _vK‡j Safe Q Machine Øviv †PK K‡i Button/drawstring pull test report G ‡iKW©
msiÿb Ki‡Z n‡e|
11| cÖ_g Drcvw`Z Mv‡g©›Um Gi cÖwZwU mvBR †_‡K Kgc‡ÿ 2 wcm K‡i †PK mn wb‡¤œv³ †iKW© msiÿY Ki‡Z
n‡e|
12| mwVK n‡j Drcv`b Pvwj‡q †h‡Z n‡e|
13| mgm¨v n‡j cÖ‡qvRbxq e¨e¯’v MÖn‡bi gva¨‡g mgvavb K‡i Process Mock up form ˆZwi K‡i Drcv`b
Pvwj‡q †h‡Z n‡e|
14| Traffic light chart system Gi gva¨‡g cÖWvKkb wWcvU©‡g‡›Ui we‡kl `„wó AvKl©b Ki‡Z n‡e|
15| †gwkb †PK K‡i hw` †gwk‡bi mgm¨v nq Z‡e Maintenance Ki‡Z n‡e hw` Operator problem nq
Z‡e wVKgZ †Uªwbs w`‡q Drcv`b ïiæ Ki‡Z n‡e|
16| mKj Mv‡g©›Um 100% ‡PK K‡i End Table inspection report form Gi gva¨‡g wi‡cvU© Ki‡Z
n‡e|
17| mgm¨vhy³ Mv‡g©›Um G¨v‡iv w÷Kvi jvwM‡q Alteration Box Ges wi‡R±¸‡jv wi‡R± e‡K&ª ivL‡Z n‡e|
18| fvj Mv‡g©›Um wKD wm cvk wóKvi jvwM‡q cieZ©x cÖ‡m‡mi Rb¨ cvVv‡Z n‡e|
19| cÖwZw`‡bi †Uwej B݇cKkb wi‡cvU© Analysis K‡i Daily End table defect % wi‡cvU© ˆZwi K‡i
†KvqvwjwU I cÖWvKkb wUg wb‡q cÖwZw`b wgwUs Ki‡Z n‡e|
 Page 36 of 56

9.2.8 Final Inspection Procedure

1| Kgb wW‡d± Mock-up Display Board G msiÿY Ki‡Z n‡e|

2| wKD wm †Uwe‡ji RveZxq miÄvg †gRvi‡g›U †Uc, m¨v¯új BZ¨vw` m¤ú‡K© wbwðZ nIqv|

3| GcÖæf †m¤új Øviv óvBj †PK Ki‡Z n‡e| mgm¨v cvIqv †M‡j DשZb Kg©KZ©v‡K Rvbv‡Z n‡e Ges Rectify

Gi Rb¨ cvVv‡Z n‡e|

4| 100% Bb mvBW I Uc mvBW †PK Ki‡Z n‡e| mwVK n‡j cieZ©x cÖ‡m‡mi Rb¨ cvVv‡Z n‡e Ges mgm¨v n‡j

wbw`©ó Acv‡iU‡ii Kv‡Q Rectify Gi Rb¨ cvVv‡Z n‡e|

5| mKj cÖ‡mm Final check Ki‡Z n‡e| mgm¨v cvIqv ‡M‡j c~e©eZ©x QI †K mgm¨v m¤ú‡K© Rbv‡Z n‡e Ges

rectify Gi Rb¨ wbw`©ó Acv‡iU‡ii Kv‡Q cvVv‡Z n‡e|

6| 100% wK-c‡q›U ‡gRvi‡g›U †PK Ki‡Z n‡e| mgm¨v n‡j DaŸ©Zb Kg©KZ©vi mv‡_ Av‡jvPbv K‡i mgvav‡bi

e¨e¯’v Ki‡Z n‡e|

7| 100% †j‡ej †PK Ki‡Z n‡e| mgm¨v _vK‡j †j‡ej R‡q›U Acv‡iU‡ii Kv‡Q †j‡ej cwieZ©‡bi Rb¨

cvVv‡Z n‡e|

8| AQL-1.5 Abyhvqx AwWU Ki‡Z n‡e| Fail n‡j Final QI Gi Kv‡Q Recheck Gi Rb¨ cvVv‡Z n‡e|

9| Recheck Kiv jU cybivq AwWU Ki‡Z n‡e Ges cvk n‡j c¨vwKs Gi Rb¨ cvVv‡Z n‡e|
 Page 37 of 56

9.2.9 Pull Test Procedure

For size Group 44-92:

H&M Q.C colleague part:

1. During initial will check 5 pcs.

2. During Inline will check 5 pcs

3. During Final will check 5 pcs

Total=15 pcs.

Supplier part:

1. During initial will check 5 pcs.

2. During Inline will check 5 pcs

3. During Final will check 5 pcs

Total=15 pcs.

Supplier also will check daily three times covering all machines.

For size group 92-128:

Routine for size 92-98 as below;

H&M Q.C colleague part:

1. During initial will check 5 pcs.

2. During Inline will check 5 pcs

3. During Final will check 5 pcs

Total=15 pcs.
 Page 38 of 56

Supplier part:

1. During initial will check 5 pcs.

2. During Inline will check 5 pcs

3. During Final will check 5 pcs

Total=15 pcs.

Supplier also will check daily three times covering all machines.

Routine for size 104-128 as below;

H&M Q.C colleague part:

1. During initial will check 2 pcs.

2. During Inline will check 2 pcs

3. During P Final will check 1 pcs

Total=5 pcs.

Supplier part:

1. During initial will check 2 pcs.

2. During Inline will check 1 pcs

3. During Pre-final will check 1 pcs.

Total=5 pcs.

Supplier also will check daily Onetime covering all machines.

For size group 134-170:

H&M Q.C colleague part:

1. During initial will check 2 pcs.

2. During Inline will check 2 pcs

3. During Final will check 1 pcs

Total=5 pcs.
 Page 39 of 56

Supplier part:

1. During initial will check 2 pcs.

2. During Inline will check 1 pcs

3. During Pre-final will check 1 pcs

4. During Final will check 1 pcs

Total=5 pcs.

Supplier also will check daily Onetime covering all machines.

 Page 40 of 56

9.3 Routine

9.3.1 External Part Routine

1. After Print/Embroidery sample approved by H&M technical department will

come to factory relevant merchant.
2. Print/Embroidery placement, color design all include tack pack.
3. After starting bulk all size range cross check with approved sample by H&M
RQS.
4. After getting approval for bulk from RQS one set go to relevant
Print/Embroidery plant. Other set hand over to cutting department QA
Manager.
5. After bulk received cutting department quality inspection need to check 100%
& separate damages. Check placement, color, size and other defects.
6. Everyday lot wise one sample need to wash and see for color bleeding &
strength of Print.
7. Emb. parts need to check by needle detector machine.
8. Need to make a daily report.

9.3.2 Routine For Reject Product

1. During the process inspection / getup inspection/ audit, if found any type of
reject / un repairable gmts then those gmts need to be keep in a red color box
separately.
2. Rejected gmts s/b permanently sealed by stamp “reject for H&M” & keep
separate in the locker room.
3. Should be kept the record for reject gmts on regularly & those records must be
keep on according to size & defects.
4. Prepare a monthly summary report by extracting data from daily reports & need
to review the monthly basis by the top management.
5. Record must be signature by responsible person. (QM, GM, Director)
6. Ensure to keep all rejected garments for a minimum period of 12 months after
tod.
7. Record must be kept in the master file for 12 months.
 Page 41 of 56

9.3.3 Spot, Dirty and Oil Control Routine

1. Light Color Gmts Gi Bundle mg~n Poly Øviv Sewing Floor G w`‡Z n‡e|

2. ‡h mg¯Í Line G Light Color Gmts Pj‡e †m mg¯Í Line G Hand Gloves e¨envi Ki‡Z n‡e|

3. QC Table I Iron Table Gi Kvco wbqwgZ cwieZ©b Ki‡Z n‡e|

4. Floor G Lvevi enb Kiv hv‡ebv|

5. Lunch Gi ci mvevb w`‡q fvjfv‡e nvZ ‡aŠZ Ki‡Z n‡e|

6. QC Check Gmts G Spot/Dirty _vK‡j AvUKv‡Z n‡e|

7. Spot I Stain _vK‡j Solvy e¨envi Ki‡Z n‡e|

8. 833 Lifter e¨envi †hvM¨|

9. Solvy/Lifter e¨envi Kivi mgq Aek¨B Hand Gloves, Sun Glass, Musk e¨envi Ki‡Z n‡e|

10. Gmts ¸‡jv‡K Ggbfv‡e Spray Ki‡Z n‡e hv‡Z Gmts Damage/Reject bv nq|

11. Solvy/Lifter e¨env‡ii ci Gmts 6 N›Uv †Lvjv evZv‡k ivL‡Z n‡e|

12. 6 N›Uv ci Gmts ¸‡jv‡K Aek¨B Brush Ki‡Z n‡e|

13. Gmts G Oil Mark _vK‡j Aek¨B Lifter e¨envi Ki‡Z n‡e|

14. Gmts ¸‡jv‡K Aek¨B QC Check G w`‡Z n‡e|

 Page 42 of 56

9.3.4 Needle Detector Routine

1. Metal detector machine s/b celebrated by 9 point system

2. Metal detector machine s/b calibrated with the 1.2 mm test card on a regular

basis b4 starting the machine on every alternative 2 hours.

3. All the goods which are mandatory to be metal free must pass through convey

metal detector machine.

4. Finished goods s/b passed through the metal detector after attaching the price

tkt but b4 packing.

5. GMTS for japan country must be check 4 time for children (size 44 to 170)

6. GMTS for japan country must be check 2 time for adult (size s m l xl & 32 38 )

face side vertical & back side horizontally.

7. A metal detection record s/b completed by the operator with the results of the

detection of each order.

8. After pass the metal detector goods s/b in the metal free zone

9. If found any gmts with metal then this gtms need to keep the box for one year &

keep the record in the log book.

10. Should the metal detector fail to detect the test card, then entire production

checked within the previous hours be re processed.

11. Metal detectors must be calibrated every 6 month by the machine suppliers or

third party.
 Page 43 of 56

9.3.5 Insect Prevention Routine

1. Finishing sections windows s/b covered by high density net for insect
prevention.

2. Insect killer light s/b hanged on all exit & entrance point.

3. Pest control system is implemented in your factory regularly.

4. Don’t keep food inside the fishing & packing section.

5. Finally we should ensure that there has no insect inside the carton.

9.3.6 Super Dry Use Procedure

1. Use the Super dry when Moisture 65% exceed.

2. Don’t keep it in the open air b4 use.
3. Don’t use super dry which are already use. For example when ctn are open for
inspection then those super dry s/b rejected & s/b use new super dry once ctn
close.
4. Ctn s/b closed once use the super dry. Don’t ctn keep open after use the super
dry
5. Super dry s/b use for # Gmts with Leather Patch & Fake leather ( PU patch), #
Rinse wash, # Coated Fabric,# Satin fabric, # Natural Down / Feather, # New
product like Out door, # Straw , Jute, # Dark color denim .
6. Each ctn need 50 grms super dry inside the poly bag,
7. Mater poly bag without hole.
8. Do not over pack the ctn, recommendations is to have 2 to 4 cm space on top of
packed gmts to allow the air circulations.
9. Fold the master polybag opening close, Tape or glue is not allow.
10. Ctn s/b on palates.
11. Ctn warehouse should be with Air Circulation.
 Page 44 of 56

9.3.7 Moisture Control Routine

If moisture label is more than 65% we must follow below instruction:

1. There should be little blank space inside the carton.

2. Garments must be packed by master poly bag (without hole).

3. We should keep 50 gm super dry inside each carton.

4. We should fold the poly bag, never use glue tape.

If moisture label is too high first we should try to dry it properly, if moisture labels not
decrease we must contact with H&M packing responsible person.

 For “au” country must be use super dry.

If moisture label is less than 65% we have to use super dry for below product.

 New product / outdoor product

 Blazer
 Jacket
 Rinse wash garments
 Feather stain fabric
 Coated fabric
 Leather & fake leather
 Dark color denim (wash/non wash)
 Leather patch
 Straw jute
 Page 45 of 56

9.3.8 Mould Prevention Routine

1 Make sure your fabric / yarn/ accessories, ctn ware house s/b clean, good
ventilation, on pallets, not touching the walls.
2 Clean storage room regularly.
3 Check the humidity of all fabrics / garments during production, with a moisture
meter.
4 Garments must be produced in clean conditions and kept off the floor during
production.
5 Need to check gmts moisture by meter when receive from wash, if found
moisture abv 45 then need to return wash factory
6 Need to check the finished goods with moisture meter before shipment.
7 All garments washed articles must be dried properly.
8 If the steam is not fully vaporized during ironing, the moisture remains in the
garment and later might cause mould, factories should use steam irons with
vacuum tables. Garments should remain exposed several hours, depending on
the thickness of the fabric / yarn, before putting them into final packing.
9 When using spot remover, garments must be completely dried before packing.

So before placing the goods in the cartons ensure that the goods are-

• Free of dust

• Completely dry

• Unaffected by mould or insects

10 Affected items should be isolated from other objects and shall never be packed.
11 Make sure that packing material / cartons have been stored under clean and
ventilated conditions.
12 Make sure nobody eats or keeps food in storage & packing.
13 If it is raining during loading, make sure the loading is done under cover.
14 During transportation you must cover the trucks in a sufficient way.
15 Damaged or wet cartons must be replaced immediately and the condition of the
content of the cartons must be checked.
 Page 46 of 56

10. Traffic light system of quality assurance

10.1 Definition

It is highly definable system of identifying a defect & repair it at the very early stage of
production.

In this system every operator is provided a traffic light chart in front of them, quality
inspector checks lot or bundle and complete the chart. This result is early identification
of a defect. As less reject can be produced in this method. So the manufacturer profits
from this system. Workers also benefited because she has to rework less & can produce
more.

10.2 Summary of the system

A number of “process inspectors” are assigned to a line. They time to time come to the
operator & inspect bundle or lot of finished work.

How frequent inspectors would visit operators or inspect the finished bundles defends
upon reject level of the operator the previous day & the level of quality problem she is
facing currently. If an operator faces quality problem, her work is put on 100%
surveillance so that defects can’t progress & the operator can rectify her work.

100% surveillance or check does not mean checking all the jobs of the operator. It
rather implies checking 7pcs on random basis & in such a way inspecting all the bundle
or lots of the concerned operator.

In traffic light system, line inspector check on random basis 7 pcs. If 1 out of 7
inspected jobs proved to be defective. Inspector return it to the operator & repaired. If
line inspector finds 2 pcs defective out of 7 inspected jobs, he returns the whole bundle
to the respective line supervisor. Discus the problem with him. The supervisor in turn
discusses the problem with the operator, check the weak points & reason if the defect &
advise measures so that such defects do not recap.

Operator thoroughly checks all the jobs of the bundle & repairs the defects. Line
inspector again checks the jobs in the bundle or lot. If he again finds any defect in the
bundle the line inspector informs the matter to floor in charge or APM/PM & discus
with him the whole gmts of the problem & reasons of the defect.
 Page 47 of 56

11. Defect Classification

Defects 3 cÖKvit
(1) Critical (2) Major (3) Minor
Critical defects (Pig ÎæwU)
cY¨ e¨envi Kivi ci hw` kix‡ii †Kvb ÿwZ nq|
‡hgbt †K‡U hvIqv, †Kvb ÿZ nIqv, PzjKvwb nIqv BZ¨vw`|
Critical defects mg~nt
c‡Y¨i g‡a¨ fv½v myB _vK‡j|
evUb aviv‡jv _vK‡j|
c‡Y¨i g‡a¨ †cvKv-gvKo _vK‡j|
cY¨ KvU©y‡b ivLvi ci cY¨ †_‡K `yM©Ü †ei n‡j|
c‡Y¨i g‡a¨ †gUvj RvZxq aviv‡jv wKQz _vK‡j|
ME & CA ‡j‡ej ev` co‡j|
H&M & JP wVKvbv ev` co‡j|
Drcv`bKvix †`‡ki bvg ev` co‡j|
‡j‡e‡j mZK©xKib Z_¨ ev` co‡j|
H&M Chemical Gi wewa-wb‡la gvbv bv n‡j|
‡Kqvi ‡j‡e‡j †Kvb †Kqvi BÝUªvKkb ev` co‡j|
US Kvw›Uª‡Z †Kqvi †j‡e‡j RN bv¤^vi ev` co‡j|
H&M Gi Web Address: www.hm.com ev` co‡j|
Major Defects (eo ÎæwU)
Customer e¨env‡ii mgq ÎæwU aiv c‡o ‡cvlv‡Ki ¸‡YvMZ gvb‡K ÿwZMÖ¯’ K‡i Ggb|
‡cvlv‡Ki Kvh©KvwiZvi cwieZ©b Avb‡j|
H&M Gi ‡KvqvwjwU ÷¨vÛvW© Ges wiKzq¨vi‡g›U Abyhvqx bv nIqv|
Minor Defects (‡QvU ÎæwU)
Customer e¨env‡ii mgq ÎæwU aiv c‡ibv/ †cvlv‡Ki ¸YMZ gvb‡K bó K‡ibv|
c‡Y¨i ‡KvqvwjwU msµvšÍ †Kvb mgm¨v m„wó K‡ibv Ggb †Kvb ÎæwU|
‡cvlv‡Ki ¸YMZ gvb‡K ÿwZMÖ¯’ K‡ibv wKš‘ Aby‡gvw`Z ÷¨vÛvW© Gi mgch©v‡qi bq Ggb|
 Page 48 of 56

12. Care Label Symbol Information

Care labels provide helpful information that can save you time and money.
Cleaner, fresher clothes means longer-wearing apparel. And clothes that are bleachable
are easier to get clean.
When a care label doesn’t mention bleach or says "Bleach when needed," it means it is
safe to use Clorox liquid bleach. When the label says "Non-chlorine bleach when
needed" use a non-chlorine (color-safe) bleach like Clorox 2®.
Because clothes can be mislabeled, follow the easy directions on bleach container labels
to test fabrics for colorfastness.

Machine Wash, Machine Wash,

Machine Wash, Hand
COLD COLD
COLD Wash
Permanent Press Gentle Cycle

Machine Wash, Machine Wash,

Machine Wash, Do Not
WARM WARM
WARM Wash
Permanent Press Gentle Cycle
Washing
INSTRUCTIONS
Machine Wash, Machine Wash,
Machine Wash,
HOT HOT
HOT
Permanent Press Gentle Cycle

Bleach as needed
Do Not Bleach
Any bleach, like Clorox®, may be safely used
No bleach product should be used
including detergents with bleach - or
Non-chlorine Bleach as needed follow bleach package test procedures
Bleaching to test for bleach safety.
Use only a color-safe bleach, like Clorox 2®
INSTRUCTIONS

Tumble Dry, Tumble Dry,

Tumble Dry, Do Not
Permanent Press, Gentle Cycle,
NO HEAT Tumble Dry
NO HEAT NO HEAT

Tumble Dry, Tumble Dry,

Tumble Dry,
Permanent Press, Gentle Cycle, Line Dry
LOW HEAT
LOW HEAT LOW HEAT

Drying Tumble Dry, Tumble Dry,

Tumble Dry,
INSTRUCTIONS Permanent Press, Gentle Cycle, Drip Dry
MEDIUM
MEDIUM MEDIUM

Tumble Dry,
Dry Flat
HIGH

Iron, Steam or Dry, with Do Not Iron

LOW HEAT with Steam

Ironing Iron, Steam or Dry, with

Do Not Iron
INSTRUCTIONS MEDIUM HEAT
 Page 49 of 56

Iron, Steam or Dry, with

HIGH HEAT

Dryclean
May appear with additional
letters and/or lines Do Not Dryclean
Take this item to a
Drycleaning professional drycleaner
INSTRUCTIONS
 Page 50 of 56

13. QA Reports

13.1 Fabric Quality Reports

Marker check list record Spreading quality control report Visual fabric inspection summary

Fabric shade record Fabric twisting report Inspection report (four point system)
 Page 51 of 56

Fabric shrinkage test record H&M shade record

Blanket sheet Color continuity record

 Page 52 of 56

13.2 Acc./Trims Quality Reports

Nickel Test Report Ferrous Test Report

 Page 53 of 56

Accessories Inspection Report

 Page 54 of 56

13.3 Cutting Quality Reports

Fabric Relaxation Report 100% Cut Panel Check Report Marker Check List Record

Cutting Quality Control Report Spreading Quality Control Report Corrective Action Plan
 Page 55 of 56

13.4 Sewing Quality Reports

Hourly Inspection Report Measurement Report Sewing Inline Inspection

7.0 Inspection Report Corrective Action Plan SPI Report

 Page 56 of 56

 The End