Amatuer Woodworker

Amateur Woodworker: Archive
Archive
Vol III, Issue 4. August/September 1999
Baby Changing Table

Baby changing tables are a wonderful - yet expensive - addition to any nursery.
With that in mind we set about building a baby changing table that would provide
a strong combination of practicality and price. The resulting table has subsequently
been "battle-tested" for the past month and has stood up to the demands of both
mother and baby. Even better, when your baby (finally) outgrows the need for
diapers, the changing table can be used as a children's chest of drawers. Note that
the baby changing table does not have a rail around the top. Instead, it is designed
to accommodate one of the standard curved foam changing pads.
Paper Towel Holder

This is a quick and easy project for anyone who is fed-up with plastic paper towel
holders which never seem to work as well as they should. The project should take
less than two hours to complete from start to finish and is a great addition to any
kitchen or workshop.
Vol III, Issue 3. June/July 1999
TV Cabinet
With this project we are revisiting an earlier theme: how to make a TV (and its
associated VCR, Cable box and other paraphernalia) less intrusive in a fairly small
room. While the popular approach is typically to hide everything behind a large
entertainment center, we remain unconvinced that this is the best approach.
Instead, we offer the following TV solution that leaves the television in full view
while hiding all of the other equipment. What makes this a really clever solution is
the use of an infrared repeater device that allows the viewer to operate the cable
box and VCR with the doors closed.
Simple Corner Shelf

This corner shelves project is a very simple weekend project. The shelves are
made out of plywood with cheap pine used as the edging to give the effect of a
thicker, more solid type of wood (as well as to provide a useful lip to stop things
getting knocked off too easily). The longest part of this construction by far is the
painting. As such, this is a project that absolutely anyone can take on.
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Vol III, Issue 2. March/April 1999
Chinese Scroll Frame

This scroll frame was one of the more unusual challenges that we have been given
in the past couple of years. A relative had bought a Chinese scroll while on
vacation and needed a method of displaying it on the wall. However, the scroll is
about 20 feet long - too long to fit in a small apartment. As a result, we needed to
develop a method of allowing a section of the scroll to be viewed at a time, but
with the ability to easily (and the word "easy" was used several times) change the
view. The result was this Cherry scroll cabinet which has small dials underneath it
to allow the scroll to be moved on or rewound as required.
Trivet
A trivet is a quick and easy project that can be used either in the kitchen or as part
of a more formal setting in the dining room, depending on your needs. The project
can be easily built from start to finish in a weekend (indeed in a day if you use
fairly fast-setting glue). We used some left-over scraps of Cherry to build this
trivet, but you can use any hardwood - particularly as the wood does not come into
direct contact with the hot pots and pans.
Vol III, Issue 1. January/February 1999
Workshop Bench
This workbench plan uses 2 x 4s to produce a relatively cheap, and functional,
workbench that can be constructed in a day. Although the plan does not include a
vise, the inherent stability of this workbench means that you can easily add one if
so required. Under the workbench we have included very basic drawers, hidden
behind cupboard doors, that can be used to store all of your power - and other -
tools.
Chinese Abacus Lamp

The point of this project was to design a low-light lamp that would provide
interesting shadows through the use of two abaci (the plural of abacus?). However,
these particular abacuses have sentimental value to my aunt and, while she
certainly wanted to do something with them, she did not want them to be damaged.
The result was this Chinese-influenced lamp, which allows the abaci to be freely
removed.
Quilt Hanger
A quilt hanger is a very simple project. At its most basic, the hanger is essentially

two pieces of thin wood that are screwed together, clamping the top of the quilt in
between them. This is our rendition of a seemingly simple project.
Vol II, Issue 8. November/December 1998
Bird Nesting Box

As winter descends upon us, it is time to skip ahead and begin considering the
spring (it's certainly one way of ignoring the darker evenings!) In particular, now
is the time to start building a bird nesting box so that when the spring does arrive,
your local birds have a nice new home. By putting the box out in the winter, any
human-related smells (such as the smell of the varnish) will have merged nicely
into the more expected aroma of nature by the time the birds come knocking on
the door.
Storage Shelving
Functional storage shelving is one of the most often request projects from you, our
readers. The need varies from somewhere to keep those bulk purchases in the
basement to simple shelving for in the workshop. Our resulting project should
accommodate either choice and leaves plenty of room for modification to suit your
own particular requirements. More importantly, the project is very cheap as it uses
standard 2-by-3's as the main framework. Although this is rough, construction-
grade lumber, once sanded down it provides a perfectly adequate surface for
painting or even varnishing.
Vol II, Issue 7. September/October 1998
CD Cabinet
There are two schools of thought when it comes to storing your CDs. The first
school is based on the idea that CDs are something that should be displayed while
the second school says that CDs should be hidden away - to be brought out only
when choosing the next musical choice. I'm a believer in the latter school and so I
created this CD cabinet. The underlying design idea was to make a mission-style
cabinet which can form part of the core furnishings in a living room.
Picture Frame
The idea behind this picture frame was twofold. The main goal was to build a
frame that did not detract from the photo held within it (in this case a landscape
shot). The second goal was to try and portray a sense of depth to the picture. The
first goal was easily attained by using solid hard maple to create a strong feel to
the frame and the second goal was attained by leaving space between the glass and
the photo.

Vol II, Issue 6. July/August 1998
Mission-style lamp
The majority of lamps that are available on the market involve the use of a lathe.
However, turned lamps are not the only solution and, as this lamp proves, it is
entirely possible to build an attractive lamp without any special tools whatsoever.
This lamp is heavily influenced by the Mission-style, a style that is increasing in
popularity at present. The lamp is very easy to make and the project can be
completed in a weekend.
Ergonomic stool
Ergonomic stools provide the combined benefit of being both good for your back
and being a convenient spare due to the fact that you can fold them up when they
are not in use. The stool is surprisingly easy to construct: there are no complicated
joints to make and no special tools required. This stool is made out of 1 1/2" thick
dowel, which can be difficult to find. However, if you cannot find this thickness
you can get away with 1 1/4" wood.
Vol II, Issue 5. June 1998
Chest of Drawers
Building a chest of drawers is a surprisingly easy project and is well worth the
effort as it means that you can build a chest that is large enough to fit all of your
particulars in it. Typically, you can build this chest of drawers in a weekend,
although you should expect the project to take a little longer if you intend to paint
it.
Chisel Sharpening Jig

One of the hardest, and most frustrating, things that you have to do as a
woodworker is sharpen chisels. This seemingly simple task soon becomes one of
the dreaded jobs that you try to avoid for as long as possible. The problem is that
sharpening your chisels properly is difficult, and not sharpening them properly
affects the quality of your work dramatically. The sharpening fixture is a great
time (and money) saver while producing for the beginning turner a perfect cutting
edge every time.
Vol II, Issue 4. May 1998
Kitchen Garbage Can

Kitchen garbage containers are usually very ugly and the best approach is usually
to buy a small plastic container that will fit under the sink. However, after

pondering this problem for a while, I came to the conclusion that there was
absolutely no reason why garbage cans cannot be made out of wood. The result
was this wooden garbage can. Having completed the project, I then passed it over
to my wife who painted and varnished it. Although the project looks complex, it
can easily be completed in one weekend and involves no special skills or joints.
Breakfast Bar
Breakfast bars and side shelves are usually rather bland and basic; essentially they
are little more than a plank of wood. However, Keith Antolik saw the opportunity
to build a far more interesting project that looks far nicer than a typical bar shelf.
The project was built out of white oak and all of the dimensions can be easily
changed to fit your specific needs.
Vol II, Issue 3. April 1998
Magazine Rack
Building a magazine rack is a relatively easy project that you can complete in a
weekend. It doesn't require much wood so you may even be able to make it out of
the odds and ends lying around in your workshop. Your family will also be happy
with the result as you can now tidy-up your woodworking magazines that are no
doubt strewn around the house! We used a relative dark wood for this project, but
you can easily use birch, or something similar, and stain to the desired color.
Puzzle Box
This box is based on an old Japanese style of concealing the mechanism that
allows the box to open. Rather than just having a simple sliding top, this box also
has a concealed locking mechanism that must be dealt with in order to open the
box. To open the box, the front strip of cocobolo must be slid to one side, thus
allowing the top to slide out freely. To make the box more interesting, three types
of wood were used: cherry (for the main panels); cocobolo (for the top and middle
strip); birch (for the small corner pieces).
Vol II, Issue 2. March 1998
Cookbook Holder
While the cookbook holder has grown in popularity, it has remained rather
simplistic, almost boring, in design. When we set about building our own version
of this useful tool, the main concern was to ensure that it was both practical and

stylish. The result is a holder that owes far more to music stand design than to the
current selection of cookbook holders available in the stores. But although the
result looks rather nice, the construction is still very easy and the project can easily
be completed in a weekend.
Router Table
A router table is an invaluable tool. The problem, however, is that ready-built

router tables are usually relatively expensive and too narrow for many projects.
This router table provides a workable area of 15" (381 mm) which will allow you
far more flexibility than a shop-bought model. Further, the back support can be
removed from the table to allow for free-form routing, if so desired.
Vol II, Issue 1. February 1998
Knife Block
A knife block is a simple project that takes very little time to make. Furthermore,
by making this yourself, rather than using a shop bought version, you are safe in
the knowledge that all of your knifes will fit into it...at least you will be if you built
the block with this in mind! The knife block is made out of Red Oak, a hardy
wood that will withstand the rigors of the kitchen fairly well.
Chisel Cabinet
Chisels are one of the most valuable groups of tools you can own, and should be
treated with care if you want them to last well. With this in mind, we offer this
chisel cabinet as an ideal storage solution. The cabinet is designed to store both
normal chisels and carving chisels. In addition, the plan can very easily be adapted
to become a multi-purpose tool cabinet.
Vol I, Issue 9. December 1997
Desk Clock
Desk or mantle clocks make ideal Christmas presents, especially for the uncle who
already seems to have everything he could possibly need. The problem is that the
typical clock design is rather boring, being a rectangular block of wood with a
clock mechanism stuck on it. Of course, it doesn't have to be that way and so we
present this clock design not as a fait accompli, but rather as a starting point for
your own creativity.

Zen Rock Garden
"Through Zen philosophy, one can experience the large in the small. And in a
grain of sand, glimpse the meaning of the world." For centuries, Japanese Zen
masters have practiced this philosophy by cultivating gardens of harmoniously-
arranged rocks and raked gravel. With this plan we have tried to make the project
slightly more ornate than the usual mass-produced version, while still adhering to
a Zen-like simplicity (we hope). Apologies in advance to any Zen traditionalists...
Vol I, Issue 8. November 1997
Bread Box
Bread boxes are very easy to make and so it is almost a crime to consider buying
one -- unless for some reason wood will not go in your kitchen. This particular
bread box is based on one of the more common designs and is therefore easier to
build than one with a roll-top lid.
Bird Table
This is the second type of bird table offered by Amateur Woodworker. The
advantage of this particular model is that you can easily put table scraps onto it,
rather than the relatively expensive bird seed needed for the other design. And let's
face it, the birds are happy to get anything in the winter...especially if you're a
good cook!
Vol I, Issue 7. October 1997
Bird Table
This month, Amateur Woodworker features the first of two styles of bird feeder
(the second will be published next month). This particular feeder is designed to
take bird seed, rather than the more typical left-over food scraps. The advantage of
this style is that it can be filled up infrequently as it can store several weeks worth
of food at a time. The bird feeder is made out of pine and is stained to suit its
locale.
Basic Entertainment Center
This entertainment center is a rather primitive affair, as it is an "open-plan" design

with no doors. The philosophy behind this decision was that by leaving the design

open I would be less tempted to simply throw any old junk into center's hidden
recesses. This design also allowed me to employ a curved design, rather than the
more typical straight edges, and this reduced the unit's presence in the room -- as
the room is rather small, this was deemed to be very important.
Vol I, Issue 6. September 1997
Carved Owl
The owl is a departure from Amateur Woodworker's normal type of project in that
it involves carving rather than the more usual woodworking skills. However, it is
still in keeping with AW's philosophy of needing just a handful of tools. In fact, if
anything, this project requires less power tools than normal, although a couple of
carving chisels will certainly help things along. The carved owl is a variation on a
traditional Russian design and can be used as an ornament, or as a functional coat
hook.
Desk Organiser
Computers seem to create more paper than they save these days, as anyone with a
small computer desk can attest to. The battle against clutter is easily lost, making it
very difficult to find anything that you need quickly. With this goal in mind
(especially in my wife's mind) I finally built a desk organizer and designed it to
have small drawers for hiding the more junky items, such as floppy disks, staples
and so on. The organizer also had to accommodate the modem and a SyQuest
drive, hence the open shelves above and below the drawers.
Vol I, Issue 5. August 1997
Coat Rack
This coat rack is one of the simpler projects that we have featured in Amateur
Woodworker. It was designed to fit in a small hallway and had to accommodate
both coats and the usual paraphernalia such as gloves and hats (hence the shelf).
The reasoning behind the lemgth of the coat rack was to allow wet coats to rest
against the wooden slats, rather than the wall, as well as allowing for more coat
hooks to be fitted into the relatively small space.
Bathroom Unit
Bathroom under-sink units are, traditionally, rather dull, typically being very box-

like in design. However, in small bathrooms, where space is of a premium, a box-

like shape takes up too much space. This curved under-sink unit was designed to
fit into a small bathroom and while it may not save much physical space, it
certainly provides the illusion of being much smaller than it actually is.
Furthermore, by building curved doors, the unit becomes a major feature in a small
room.
Vol I, Issue 4. July 1997
Artist's Easel
Earlier this year I was vaguely considering purchasing an artist's easel, but a very
cursory look in the local art shop soon put a stop to this idea: easels are expensive!
Quite why they cost so much is beyond me as they are a very simple construction
(let's face it, the average easel consists of three sticks for legs, with a couple of
horizontal pieces to hold the artwork up). So, rather than buying one, I decided
that it would be far more fun to design and build it.
Mah Jong Box
My parents-in-law have owned this Mah Jong set for several generations, but have
never had a safe place to keep it. Instead, the pieces have been stored in a
cardboard box that is in a rather decrepit state. Upon examination recently, it was
agreed that the cardboard could no longer be repaired using tape and so I set about
making this box. Of course, not many people want such a container, but it could
also be used for jewelry or (if the dimensions are expanded) for silverware, sewing
tackle or whatever. The options are seemingly endless. The box has five trays
inside it.
Vol I, Issue 3. June 1997
Adirondack Style Chairs
Adirondack chairs have become very popular in the past few years. The shape and
angle of these chairs is somewhere between a normal garden chair and a slovenly
deck chair. The result is a surprisingly comfortable chair that, unfortunately, costs
far too much. Fortunately, making an Adirondack chair is not difficult and can cost
as little as $20, depending upon the wood that you use.
Adirondack Style Rocking Chair

For the slightly more adventurous, we have added this interesting variation on the
standard Adironadack style: a two person rocking chair.
Curved Bedside Cabinets
Most bedside cabinets are a rather dull design, being simply a box-like shape.
When these bedside cabinets were designed, we wanted to subtly change the shape
and feel of the cabinets, but without removing any of the functionality. In order to
change the shape slightly, it was decided to make the front of the cabinet curved,
rather than producing the more normal flat drawer fronts. Before anyone throws up
their hands in disgust, thinking that we used some sort of steamer to bend the
wood, don't worry...we cheated! No wood has been bent: instead, it has simply
been planed and sanded into this shape.
Vol I, Issue 2. May 1997
Shelving Unit
Shelving has always struck me as being a particularly boring thing to build. The
standard shelving unit has two sides, a back and a number of actual shelves in the
middle. Because of this, it was a project that I delayed for as long as I possibly
could, but finally the sheer mass of clutter in my home forced my hand...or was it
my wife's insistence that I clear up my "junk" somehow.
Storage Chest
This chest was designed to have a dual purpose: firstly (and most obviously) as a
storage unit and secondly as a coffee table in a small living room. The shape is
very basic, but is the most functional for storing toys and games in. In order to
improve the aesthetic appeal of the chest it was decided that dovetail joints would
be used to join the sides. Details of how to create easy dovetail joints has been
included in the Joints section.
Vol I, Issue 1. March/April 1997
Bedside Lamp
Are you looking for a bedside lamp that is different from the run-of-the-mill
department store examples? This lamp was constructed using only two power
tools: a drill and a jigsaw.

Compact TV Cabinet
Although desirable, it is not always easy to add a television into a bedroom where
space is a premium, especially once room has been made for the necessities of life,
such as bedside cabinets, closets and a chest of drawers. This TV cabinet has been
designed to take up as little as 23 inches of wall space...

Amateur Woodworker: TV Cabinet
Entertainment Center
With this project we are revisiting an
earlier theme: how to make a TV
(and its associated VCR, Cable box
and other paraphernalia) less
intrusive in a fairly small room.
While the popular approach is
typically to hide everything behind a
large entertainment center, we
remain unconvinced that this is the
best approach. Instead, we offer the
following TV solution that leaves the
television in full view while hiding
all of the other equipment. What
makes this a really clever solution is
the use of an infrared repeater device that allows the viewer to operate the cable
box and VCR with the doors closed.
Construction
Tools required: Router, sander, saw, drill
Wood required: (Cherry)
Description Qty Width Thickness Length

Side legs 2 2 3/4" 1 3/4" 14"
Back leg wide 1 2" 3/4" 14"
Back leg narrow 1 1 1/4" 3/4" 14"
Front legs 2 2 3/4" 3/4" 14"
Side frame (top and bottom) 4 1 1/2" 3/4" 9 3/4"
Front frame (top and bottom) 2 1 3/4" 3/4" 28 1/2"
Back frame (top and bottom) 4 1 1/2" 3/4" 28 1/4"
Side panels 2 10 1/2" 1/2" 9 3/4"
Back panels (plywood) 2 10 1/2" 1/2" 28 1/4"
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Inside supports 4 1" 3/4" 14 1/2"

Inside cross beam 2 1" 3/4" 28 3/4"
Shelf support strip (back) 2 3/4" 3/4" 28 1/2"
Shelf support strip (side) 2 3/4" 3/4" 9 3/4"
Top/Middle/Base (plywood) 1 48" 1/2" 96"
Top edging (sides) 2 1/2" 1/4" 12 1/2"
Top edging (front) 2 1/2" 1/4" 32"
Middle edging strip 1 1/2" 1/8" 28"
Doors 2 10" 1/2" 14" **
** See point 14 below, which explains how to get wood this wide.
1. Build side legs
The first step (and most complex) is cutting the two

side legs to the correct size. These legs are cut from a
block of cherry that is 2 3/4" x 1 3/4" in profile and
14" long. Firstly, nominate two adjoining sides to be
the inner sides (one will face towards the front while
the other will face the back corner of the unit). Then,
mark out the sloping cut on the side profile and cut
this using a circular saw (or preferably a table saw). When this is done, mark out
the second slope and also cut this.
The end result is a leg that is 2 3/4" x 1 3/4" at the base and 7/8" x 7/8" at the top
(see diagram). Repeat the above steps to make the second front leg, but ensure that
the second front leg is a mirror image of the first. Once these legs are cut to shape,
plane them (if necessary) to make sure they are even and then sand.
2. Build front legs
Next, cut the front legs to shape. These legs should match the profile of the side
legs as seen from the front (i.e. sloping in towards the unit at the top) but should
not have a side slope (hence why the wood is only 3/4" thick). Because of this,
there is only one cut needed for each leg and the result should be a leg that is 2
3/4" x 3/4" at the bottom and 7/8" x 3/4" at the top.
3. Build side panels

Now that the four main legs are cut to shape it is time to
prepare the rest of the side panel components. Take the
four side frame pieces and rout a 1/2" wide groove (1/4"
deep) out of the narrow, long "top" of each one. This
groove will allow the framing pieces to slot over the top
and bottom of the side panels, thus forming one strong
unit (see diagram). Once this is done, glue the top and
bottom frame pieces to the side panel to form one main
unit.
Once the side panel is built we need to cut a bevel

along the side of the panel that will face forward. To
do this, decide if the panel will be on the right or left
side of the TV cabinet as you ar efacing the cabinet.
Presuming that this will be the right hand side panel,
cut a 45 degree bevel on the left hand side of the panel as shown in the diagram.
Note that the bevel means that the side of the panel that faces outwards is now
longer than the inner-facing panel. You have now completed one side panel.
Repeat the above steps to build the second (left) panel, being careful to cut the
bevel on the right side this time.
4. Combine side panels and legs
Now that both panels are cut to shape, it is

time to glue the legs to them. First attach the
rear leg to the non-bevelled side. To attach
the legs to the side panels use dowel joints
from the legs into the top and bottom frame
pieces (therefore, two dowel joints per leg).
Once the rear leg is attached, dowel and glue
the from leg into position. The front leg
should be attached along the bevelled side
and should therefore be at a 45 degree angle
to the side. Repeat for the second side so that
you now have two side panels, each with two
legs attached to it (see diagram). Note that teh
side panel should be attached flush with the
top of the legs. Therefore, the leg should protrude 1" below the bottom of the side
panel.
5. Build rear leg

Now build the back leg. To do this, take the two pieces of
wood and glue/dowel the 1 1/4" wide piece onto the wider
piece as show in the diagram. The result is a rear leg that
protrudes an even amount in either direction.
6. Build back panels; attach to side panels
Next take the back frame pieces and rout out a groove that is 1/2" wide and 1/4"
deep in one 3/4" side of each piece. This groove will allow the back panel
plywood to slot into place, thus forming a complete panel (consisting of the top
and bottom cherry pieces and a main plywood panel. Once this is done, glue the
main panel into the top and bottom pieces and then attach the resulting rear panel
between the rear leg and one of the two side panels. To attach these pieces
together, use dowel joints into the top and bottom frame pieces from the rear and
back legs and glue. Repeat for the other back side. The result should be a frame
that is missing just the front component (where the doors will fit).
7. Build front frame; attach to complete TV stand frame
To finish the frame we need to attach the front frame pieces.

However, before we do that it is necessary to rout out a 1/4" deep,
1/4" wide groove from one edge of each piece. This will provide a
ledge for the door to rest against so it is important to decide which
piece will attach where and ensure that the groove is taken out of
the correct area of the wood (see diagram). Once these grooves
are cut, attach the top piece using dowel joints again. Then attach
the bottom piece. This should be attached 1" from the bottom of
the leg so that it matches the height of the other side panels. The
result is a complete frame.
8. Build base frame work
Now that the main frame of the TV cabinet has been built, it is time to consider the
inside. First we need to build the base of the unit. However before we can add the
plywood base we need to build a framework that will better support the base, and
stop it from warping over time. This frame consists of two front-to-back supports
(we define the "front" to be side with the doors) and a cross-member that connects
between these two supports.
The two supports should be cut to a length of 14 1/2" with a 45 degree miter in one
end of each support (this will be the back end). The support should be doweled and
glued onto the back of the front leg so that the top of the support is 1/2" lower than
the door frame. [In other words, the bottom of the support should be 1 1/4" from

the bottom of the leg]. The back end of this support should be doweled into the
lower rear frame, again, 1/2" below the top of the cherry lower frame. Repeat for
the second front-to-back support.
Next, add the cross member support. This should be glued and screwed between
the two front-to-back supports, 12" from the front of the cabinet.
9. Cut base to shape and drop in.
Now that we have built the lower frame, we need to add the base plywood. The
first thing to do, of course, is to cut this plywood to shape so that it fits snuggly
into place. The best way to do this, is to turn the TV cabinet frame upside-down
onto the plywood. Then you can draw around the inside of the TV frame to get an
accurate shape for the inside. Once this is done, cut the plywood to shape. When
cutting, err on the side of caution. Remember: you can always cut more, but it's
really difficult to add the wood back if you cut too much! Once cut, drop the
plywood into the frame and make sure it offers a good tight fit. When you are
satisfied with the fit, copy the shape onto a second piece of plywood and cut out an
identical shape. This second piece will be the middle shelf. Finally, put the base
plywood back into the unit and glue in place.
10. Add middle support strip; add middle shelf.
Now that the base level is complete, we need to build an edging frame that will
hold the middle shelf in place. To do this, glue and screw the shelf support strips
around the inside of the TV unit so that the top of the support strip is at a height of
4 3/4" above the base shelf. Leave these to dry overnight and then slot the middle
shelf into place. Once the middle shelf is in place, add the small middle shelf
edging strip to the front edge of the plywood which is still viewable.
12. Build top framing.
To build the top framing, repeat step 8. The only difference is that this frame
should be flush with the top of the TV cabinet as its job is to support the top
plywood panel, which rests on top of the overall frame.
13. Cut top to shape and glue/dowel into place.
To cut the top plywood to shape, first turn the TV frame upside down on top of the
plywood sheet and draw around the outside of the frame. Then, add a border of 1"
all the way around this frame and then cut out the shape. To attach the top to the
frame use dowel joints into the frame and glue. Clamp overnight to ensure a good
seal.

When the top is securely fastened, glue and nail (very fine brad nails) the edging
strip to the sides of the top, thus hiding the "layered" look of the plywood.
14. Make doors.
The doors are almost 14" wide (take an accurate measurement yourself to ensure a
good fit) and it is unlikely that you purchased wood that wide. As a result, before
constructing the doors you will need to dowel and glue to sheets of wood together
to gain the necessary width.
Before attaching the doors, cut a 1/4" deep, 1/4" wide groove in the top and bottom
of each one. The side that you cut these grooves into will become the inside of the
door panel. This groove should match up with the top and bottom band grooves,
thus allowing the doors to close snuggly.
To finish off the doors, attach the door strengthening

bar to each door. This is to help stop the doors (which
are quite thin) from warping too easily. This bar
should be glued onto the inside of each door panel at a
height of 6" from the bottom of the door. Further, this
panel also provides a stronger place to attach the door
pull into. Note that the door strengthening bars should
have mitered edges, rather than being cut straight at a 90 degree angle as you
would usual (see diagram).
To attach the doors to the unit, use offset hinges (see diagram). These
mean that you do not need to make insets for the hinges and, further,
will allow for the fact that the hinges must fit tightly against the front
legs.
15. Cut air vents out of back.
Because you will be putting the VCR, cable box and other electrical appliances
inside of the unit, it is a good idea to cut some air holes in the back panels of the
cabinet. To do this we used a 1/2" diameter drill bit and cut a line of holes in each
of the two back panels. Any size of air hole can be cut, but the smaller the hole,
the more you will need to cut.
16. Finishing
Finally, sand down the entire unit and finish with wax or oil. To add the infrared

repeater mentioned in the introduction, drill a hole in the center of the top, front
frame piece and insert the infrared "eye." This can be purchased from certain
electronics stores, or from the Rockler catalog (see www.rockler.com).

Additional Photos
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Additional Photos
Close this window to return to main plan
http://www.am-wood.com/may99/tv2.html (2 of 2) [11/3/2003 1:38:02 à«]

Amateur Woodworker: Baby Changing Table
Baby Changing Table

Baby changing tables are a
wonderful - yet expensive - addition
to any nursery. With that in mind we
set about building a baby changing
table that would provide a strong
combination of practicality and
price. The resulting table has
subsequently been "battle-tested" for
the past month and has stood up to
the demands of both mother and
baby. Even better, when your baby (finally) outgrows the need for diapers, the
changing table can be used as a children's chest of drawers. Note that the baby
changing table does not have a rail around the top. Instead, it is designed to
accommodate one of the standard curved foam changing pads.
Construction
Tools required: router, drill, sander
Wood required: pine and plywood

Front frame
Small verticals 2 2 1/4" 3/4" 32"
Long verticals 2 2 1/4" 3/4" 35 1/2"
Top/Middle long
3 2 1/4" 3/4" 30 1/2"
horizontals
Base plank 1 2 1/4" 3/4" 47"
Top/Middle short
2 2 1/4" 3/4" 14"
horizontals
Rear Frame
Small verticals 2 2 1/4" 3/4" 32"
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Long verticals 2 2 1/4" 3/4" 35 1/2"

Top long horizontals 1 2 1/4" 3/4" 30 1/2"
Base plank 1 2 1/4" 3/4" 47"
Top short horizontal 1 2 1/4" 3/4" 14"
Side panel (small)
Verticals 2 2 1/4" 3/4" 32"
Top/bottom 2 2 1/4" 3/4" 16 1/2"
Side panel (large)
Verticals 2 2 1/4" 3/4" 35 1/2"
Top/bottom 2 2 1/4" 3/4" 16 1/2"
Middle panel
1 16 1/2" 1/2" 4"
(plywood)
Tops
Large (plywood) 1 19 1/2" 1/2" 34 1/4"
Small (plywood) 1 19 1/2" 1/2" 18 1/2"
Edging (large top) 1 3/4" 1/8" 55"
Edging (small top) 1 3/4" 1/8" 60"
Molding (large top) 1 3/4" 3/4" 55"
Molding (small top) 1 3/4" 3/4" 60"
Base board
Front 1 3" 3/4" 51"
Side 2 3" 3/4" 19"
Large drawers
Sides 6 5 1/2" 3/4" 16 1/2"
Inner Front/back 6 5 1/2" 3/4" 26"
Front 3 9" 3/4" 30 1/2"
Knobs 6
Narrow drawers
Sides 4 10" 3/4" 16 1/2"
Inner Front/back 4 10" 3/4" 9 3/4"
Front 2 14" 3/4" 16 1/2"

Knobs 2
Back panels
Large
1 32" 1/8" 32"
(hardboard/plywood)
Small
1 16" 1/8" 35 1/2"
(hardboard/plywood)
1. Prepare front frame pieces (left side)
Firstly, cut lap joints that are 1 1/2" in from each end
into the two top pieces (long and short), the middle
drawer pieces (two long, one short) and the base plank.
Next, cut a slot out of the base plank 13" from the right
and 29 1/2" from the left (hence, 4 1/2" wide). Note
that when deciding which end is the right and left of
this plank, lie the plank flat on the ground with the cut
out lap joint part facing upwards (see diagram).
Now that all of the horizontal pieces are prepared, we need to

prepare the vertical planks. Firstly, take one of the two shorter
vertical pieces and nominate it as the left vertical. Cut out
grooves that are 3/8" deep and 1 1/2" in (matching the cut on
the horizontal pieces) at the following positions from the
bottom:
● Bottom to 2 1/4" high

● 10 3/4" to 13"
● 20 1/2" to 22 3/4"
● 29 3/4" to top
Next, take the second small vertical and nominate it as the middle-right vertical.
Make a mirror image of the above grooves in this piece, so that the horizontal
planks will slot in. The one difference is that the base to 2 1/4" high cut should be
made as a lap joint (i.e. all the way across the wood, rather than just 1 1/2" in) in
order to slot into the middle groove cut out of the base plank.
2. Prepare front frame pieces (left side)
Now take one of the two longer vertical planks and nominate it as the right
vertical. Cut out grooves that are 3/8" deep and 1 1/2" in (matching the cut on the
horizontal pieces) at the following positions from the bottom:

● Bottom to 2 1/4" high

● 17 1/2" to 19 3/4"
● 33 1/4" to top
Next, take the second long vertical and nominate it as the middle-left vertical.
Make a mirror image of the above grooves in this piece, so that the horizontal
planks will slot in. The one difference is that the base-to-2 1/4" high cut should be
made as a lap joint (i.e. all the way across the wood, rather than just 1 1/2" in) in
order to slot into the middle groove cut out of the base plank.
Finally, take the middle-right and taller middle-left planks and glue them together,
side by side. To make this joint use either dowel joints or biscuits. The result
should be a double width piece that has one side taller than the other. Not that
when looking at this piece from the front, it should look like one solid piece - the
grooves should be in the back, not the front.
3. Glue front frame together
Once the middle, double

plank has dried, it is time to
connect the rest of the front
together. Glue and screw the
pieces together, ensuring that
the finished frame is square.
To help build a solid frame,
clamp overnight to ensure a
strong bond.
4. Prepare back frame
The back frame is relatively simple to construct as it consists only of an outer

frame. Repeat step 2, but omit the horizontal planks that define the drawer spaces
(but include the inner-left and inner-right vertical planks that are glued together as
on the front). One prepared, glue the pieces together (as with the front). Again,
ensure that the frame is square.
5. Build left (small) side panel

Take the two vertical side pieces and cut lap joints into
them, and matching lap joints in the two small
horizontal pieces. By so doing, the four pieces should
fit together into a rectangular frame (see diagram).
Next, rout out a groove on the inner, back edge of all
four pieces. This groove should cut in 1/2" and be 1/2"
deep. By making this groove all the way around the
inside edge, the plywood sheet that forms the side
panel can rest in place. Once routed, glue and screw
the four side planks together - making sure the joints
are square - and then glue the plywood panel into place
in the center (which will help strengthen the unit.
6. Build right (larger) side frame
Repeat step 5 for the right hand panel. Remember that this panel is larger due to
the fact that the right side of the front frame is also taller.
7. Build main frame
Now that the two sides, front and back have been built, it is time to put them
together. Sandwich the left hand side panel between the front and back panels and
screw the three pieces together by driving screws through the front frame into the
side as well as from the back frame into the side panel. Then attach the right hand
panel to complete the frame. Make sure that the completed frame is square.
8. Add middle panel
Next, add the small middle panel, gluing and screwing it into place. This panel
should fill the small void at the point where the front/back steps up from the lower
height to the taller level. At this time you should also add a small strengthening bar
to the bottom middle of the frame, running from front to back. To add it, glue and
screw into place from the front and back.
9. Add tops
The final strengthening trick is adding to table tops. First add the larger, lower top.
This should overhang the front and left hand side by 1", over-hanging the back by
1/2". To attach this top, glue and nail - or screw - down into the frame.
Add the smaller top to the higher part of the table next. Again, the overhang
should be 1" to the front and both sides.

10. Add edging strip and molding to top
Add the edging strip to front and sides of both tops. Use glue and small finishing
nails to hold the strip into place against the plywood edge of the table top. Next,
add the small molding to the meeting point between the top and the main frame,
thus making the two look more like one unit.
11. Make base panel and attach to base.
To finish off the main unit we need to add a base board that will
serve as feet. This is one solid plank that runs the entire length of
the unit. Route a curve out of the top side to round it off (see
diagram). Add to from and sides - using a mitered cut at each end -
using screws and glue. The board should overlap 1" with the frame,
providing adequate bonding space.
12. Make drawers
Take the two side pieces, the back and the inner front piece. Cut a
groove in each one that is 1/4" from the bottom of each piece and is 1/4" wide.
This groove will allow the base to slot into the drawer frame. Once you have cut
the groove, glue and screw the sides to the back piece, slot the base into the groove
and then glue and crew the inner front board. Make sure that the unit is square.
The result is a box without a lid.
Attach a 16" drawer runner mechanism to each side of the drawer, and to the
corresponding "hole" in the main unit of the chest. Ensure that all drawer
mechanisms are attached at the same height, so that the drawers are
interchangeable in the unit. To attach the runners to the main frame, you may need
to add a strip of wood to the rear verticals.
Finally, you need to add the front of the drawer to the box unit. However, before
doing this, you need to shape the front of the drawer. The edge of this should be
rounded using the same router bit as you used for the edging around the bottom of
the main unit. Once you have routed all four sides of the drawer front, attach it to
the drawer unit by gluing and screwing from the inside of the drawer outwards.
13. Finishing
Finally, nail the two back panel pieces on to the back of the unit and sand the
entire unit thoroughly and paint.


Amateur Woodworker: Paper Towel Holder
Paper towel holder

This is a quick and easy project for anyone
who is fed-up with plastic paper towel holders
which never seem to work as well as they
should. The project should take less than two
hours to complete from start to finish and is a
great addition to any kitchen or workshop.
Construction
Tools required: jigsaw, router
Wood required: Cherry (almost any hard wood will suffice)

Sides** 2 3" 3/4" 5 1/4"
Base 1 3" 3/4" 11 1/8"
Main rod dowel 1 1 1/4" 1 1/4" 11"
End dowels 2 5/16" 5/16" 1"
** Note that it is easier to treat this as one large 10 1/2" piece until stage 3 (see
below).
1. Prepare base
To make the paper towel unit look less blocky, we

need to round off the base of the paper towel holder.
The easiest way to do this is to use a router with a
concave curve bit and run it down the length of each
side (see diagram).
2. Cut mechanism groove into side pieces.
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Amateur Woodworker: Paper Towel Holder
The side pieces hold the key to the

paper towel mechanism. Each side
piece needs a groove added in it (as
shown in the diagram) that will allow
the main dowel rod to slot in (by
pushing straight back) and then drop
down into the final "locked"
position. To make this groove, use a
3/8" router bit, cutting the groove to
a depth of 1/4". There is no easy way
to make this slot (although a router table helps) and the key is to cut the groove
slowly, with patience, having first marked the path of the slot. When cutting the
slot in the second side piece, remember that this should be a mirror image of the
first, not a direct replication.
3. Cut curve in side pieces
Once the slots are cut, round off the top of each side into a curve (diameter 3")
with a jigsaw or a bandsaw. Once done, cut the single length of wood (10 1/2"
long) into two separate side pieces (if you did not do this earlier).
4. Attach sides to base
Attach the side pieces to the ends of the base unit using either a biscuit join or
dowels (thus hiding the joint)
5. Prepare Rod
Drill a hole 3/4" deep and 5/16" diameter in the center of each end of the main rod
dowel. The easiest way to find the center of this 1 1/4" diameter dowel is to cut out
a 1 1/4" by 1 1/4" square of paper and draw a line from each corner (thus forming
and "X"). Place this square of paper over the end of the dowel, and the center of
the X is the center of the dowel end. Once you have drilled the holes, glue the
small dowel ends in to them, so that the small dowels protrude 1/4". This dowel
until should now slot into the side grooves made earlier, completing the project.
6. Sand and polish
To finish the project, sand and varnish it.
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Additional Photos
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Amateur Woodworker: Corner shelving
Corner shelves
This corner shelves project is a very
simple weekend project. The shelves are
made out of plywood with cheap pine
used as the edging to give the effect of a
thicker, more solid type of wood (as well
as to provide a useful lip to stop things
getting knocked off too easily). The
longest part of this construction by far is
the painting. As such, this is a project that absolutely anyone can take on.
Construction
Tools required: Drill, jigsaw, router
Wood required (per shelf):

Main base (plywood) 1 16 1/2" 1/2" 16 1/2"
Side edging 2 1" 3/4" 8 3/4"
Angled edging 1 1" 3/4" 14"
Underside supports 2 1 1/2" 3/4" 16"
Plug 2 1/2" 3/8" 1/2"
First cut the plywood into a square 16 1/2" by

16 1/2". Then, nominate two adjoining sides
to be the wall sides. Measure 8 1/2" away
from one wall side along one of the non-wall
sides and make a mark. Repeat for along the
second non-wall side. Then, draw a line
between the two marks. The result should be a 45 degree angle as shown in the
diagram. Cut along this line with the jigsaw (or circular saw) to provide the shape
of the shelf.
Next, take the two side edging pieces and rout a groove in the inside edge (i.e. the
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Amateur Woodworker: Corner shelving
edge that will rest against the plywood) that is 3/8" deep, 1/2" wide and 1/4" from
the top side of the edging. This will allow the edging to slot into the plywood, thus
making the construction stronger. Once you have routed out this groove, cut the
two pieces to a length of 8 3/4" each. Note that the cut made at one end of each
piece should be at a 45 degree miter, thus lining up with the profile of the plywood
(see above diagram).
Next, rout out a groove in the angled edging piece (again is 3/8" deep, 1/2" wide
and 1/4" from the top side of the edging). Note that this piece is longer than it
actually needs to be.
Once all edging pieces have been routed, glue the two side pieces onto the
plywood. Then glue the angled edging piece on, ensuring that it pushes up against
the two side edging pieces. Use small brad nails to fasten the edging into place
securely.
Once the glue is dry, use a saw to cut the excess wood off of the angled edging
piece, thus completing the desired shape. Now, take the two small plugs of wood
and glue them into the groove ends that are showing (one at each end of the angled
edging piece). Again, once dry, trim off any excess wood.
Now cut out the two underside supports. The end

that will fit up tight against the side edging should be
cut down to 1/4" thick, tapering up rapidly (in either
a curve as shown or as a straight line) to the full
width of 1 1/2". Note that one side piece should be
16" long, while the other should be 15 1/4" (as it will fit butt-up against the first
underside piece. Once both pieces have been cut to shape, glue and nail them to
the underside of the plywood on the two sides that will touch the walls.
To fasten these shelves to the wall, drill small holes in the underside supports and
use screws to attach to the wall. You should use at least two screws per support
(one near each end).
Finish the shelf by heavily sanding it, removing any sharp edges and generally
rounding off the whole shelf. Then paint.
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Amateur Woodworker: Chinese Scroll Frame
Scroll picture frame

This scroll frame was one of
the more unusual challenges
that I have been given in the
past couple of years. A
relative had picked up a
Chinese scroll while on
vacation and needed a
method of displaying it on
the wall. However, the
scroll is about 20 feet long - too long to fit in a small apartment - and so we needed
to develop a method of allowing a section of the scroll to be viewed at a time, but
with the ability to easily (and the word "easy" was stressed to me) change the
view. The result was this Cherry scroll cabinet which has small dials underneath it
to allow the scroll to be moved on or rewound as required.
Although not relevant to the actual making of the project, it is interesting to note
the origin of this scroll (which is a replica). The scroll is entitled "A city of
Cathay." It is a joint work painted by five court painters Ch'en Mei, Sun Hu, Chin
K'un, Tai Hung and Ch'en Chih-tao during the first year of Ch'ien-lung reign (1736-
1795) in the Ch'ing dynasty.
Construction
Tools required: saw, sander, drill, jigsaw (or preferably a bandsaw)

Rear sides 2 3" 1/2" 13 1/2"
Rear top and bottom 2 3" 1/2" 30"
Front-facing sides 2 3" 1/2" 13 1/2"
Front-facing top/bottom 2 2 1/4" 1/2" 30"
Dial knob 2 1 1/2" 1 1/2" 1/2"
Dial dowel 2 7/8" 7/8" 1/2"
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Joining dowel 2 3/16" 3/16" 2"

Collar 2 1" 1" 1/2"
Scroll dowel 2 1/2" 1/2" 12"
Plywood disc 2 2 1/2" 1/8" 2 1/2"
Top scroll dowel 2 3/16" 3/16" 1 1/4"
Glass restraints (side) 2 1/4" 1/4" 9"
Glass restraints
2 1/4" 1/4" 18"
(top/bottom)
Back restraints (side) 2 1/4" 1/4" 9"
Back restraints
2 1/4" 1/4" 18"
(top/bottom)
Back wall (plywood) 1 12 1/2" 1/8" 28 7/8"
The first step towards building the scroll frame is to

build the rear frame. Cut the four rear pieces to size,
with a 45 degree miter at each end of each piece. Then
glue the sides, top and bottom pieces together to from
a basic frame that is 3" deep (see diagram). Make sure
that this frame is square when gluing and subsequently
clamping.
Next, cut out the four pieces that make up the

front-facing frame. The two side pieces
should be cut at an angle of 55 degrees while
the two top/bottom pieces should have an
angle of 35 degrees (thus the combination of
putting a side piece together with a
top/bottom piece would result in 35 + 55 = 90 degrees). The reason for the odd
angle, rather than the more usual 45 degree cut is due to the disparity in wood
width between the sides and top/bottom pieces (see diagram).
Next, cut a 45 degree bevel along both of the front facing sides (see
diagram for side profile). This is done to avoid the problem of
making a frame that is too square and "boxy." The bevel is cut into both the inside
edge and the outside edge (obviously on the side that will be the up-facing side)
and will later be sanded down to round out the project.
Once all the pieces are cut to shape, glue the front pieces onto the underlying
frame (and to each other). To attach the front pieces to the underlying frame use

small brad nails (sink these nails just below the surface and use filler to tidy up the
small holes). Ensure that the front pieces are tightly pressed together (and square)
before nailing into place. Once the glue is dry, sand the unit heavily to produce a
rounded feel to the beveled edges. The main unit is now complete and we can now
begin to concentrate on the scroll mechanism
Before we work on the actual scroll

mechanism, nominate which end of the main
frame is the bottom. Then mark positions for
holes in the bottom side of the frame. These
holes should be 3/16" diameter, and should be
1 1/2" from the side and 1 1/2" from the top
of the inside (see diagram). Drill these holes all the way through. These bottom
holes will be used to connect the underneath dials to the internal scroll mechanism.
Then, make the same marks on the inside of the top frame (i.e. 1 1/2" from the side
and 1 1/2" from the back) and drill a hole 1/4" deep. Important note: this hole does
not go all the way through. The top of the internal scroll mechanism will sit in this
hole.
To build the scroll mechanism, first cut out two

circular pieces of cherry that are 1 1/2" diameter
and 1/2" thick. These will be the small dial knobs
that sit underneath the scroll frame. Drill a hole
1/4" deep and 3/16" diameter into the center of one
side of these knobs. This will accommodate the
small joining dowel that attaches the dial knob to
the main internal mechanism. Next, cut two pieces
of dial dowel 7/8" diameter and 1/2" long and drill a hole 3/16" diameter through
the center of each one. These small dowels will sit between the dial pieces and the
main frame (see diagram for more information).
Now that we have prepared all of the components that make up the dial knob,
build the complete construction by gluing the dowel and dial knob pieces together,
with the 3/16" diameter (2" long) dowel through the middle of it. Repeat for the
second dial unit.
Once the dial knob is complete, it is time to

work on the internal part of the scroll
mechanism. First, take the 1/2" diameter
scroll dowel (12" long) and drill a 3/16"
diameter hole that is 3/4" deep in each end.
This may seem a little tricky to begin with but
is actually very easy. It is important to take the time to make sure that you are

drilling the hole in the center of the dowel, however. To make sure that you drill to
the correct depth, measure along the drill bit to the correct distance and then wrap
some tape tightly around the drill bit just above this point. Once the tape reaches
the surface of the wood, you will know that you have drilled deep enough.
Glue a 3/16" diameter, 1 1/4" long dowel into one end of each scroll dowel. This
should result in 1/2" sticking out. This will be the top end of the scroll dowel. The
small 3/16" dowel protruding from the top of the scroll dowel will slot into the
small hole made in the inner frame previously (thus holding the top of the scroll
dowel in situ). Lightly sand this small dowel to ensure that it will not stick unduly
when placed in the hole.
Cut a small wooden collar out of some 1/2" thick cherry stock. The collar should
be 1" diameter and should have a hole in the center of it that accommodates the
scroll collar (1/2" diameter). Once the collar is complete, cut a disc of plywood
(1/8" stock) that is 2 1/2" diameter. Again, drill a hole that is 1/2" diameter in the
center of it to accommodate the scroll dowel. Note that it is often easier to drill the
hole in the plywood (and the collar) first, before then cutting the collar/disc to the
correct size.
Now prepare the scroll by stapling and gluing one end of the scroll to each of the
scroll dowels. The best glue to use for this is an almond paste or other paper glue.
While wood glue will work adequately, a paper-specific glue will give better
results.
At this point, finish the dial unit and main frame by either waxing or varnishing.
We chose to use a rub-on varnish which gives a nice rich finish (and requires little
maintenance moving forward), but whatever type of finish you want is perfectly
acceptable. It is important to apply the finish now, before putting the mechanism
together in order to ensure that the finish does not glue up the mechanism.
Once the finish is dry, place the glass into the

frame and add in the glass restraining pieces. To
stop the glass from rattling we recommend that
you apply a thin sliver of felt between the restraint
and the glass. This allows you to push down more
on the glass, giving a tighter fit. To attach the
restraints, screw through the restraints into the side
walls of the frame. Position the restraints in the center of each frame side.
Now put the scroll components together, as shown in the diagram above. Note that
the dowel that protrudes from the dial unit, though the main frame and into the
scroll dowel should not be glued into this scroll dowel. Instead, it should be attach

via a screw that goes through the collar, into - and through - the scroll dowel and
into the dial dowel. Note that to ensure that the wood does not split when attaching
this screw, drill a small (1/16" diameter) hole through the collar and scroll dowel.
Once the mechanism has been installed, and the scroll moves freely when the dial
knobs are rotated, it is time to add the back to the frame. To do this, we must first
add in the back wall restraints. These are attached via screws (as with the glass
restraints). Do not be tempted to use nails as if you do so, you will not be able to
replace the glass if it breaks. The back wall restraints should be positioned in the
center of each side 1/4" from the back (thus leaving room for the back wall to slot
in without overlapping the sides).
Finally, add in the back piece of plywood and attach it by nailing small brad nails
part way into the side walls, thus loosely holding the wall in place (but still
allowing removal of the nails and back wall if you need to get inside the frame
again.

Additional Photos
http://www.am-wood.com/march99/scroll2.html [11/3/2003 1:40:54 à«]

Amateur Woodworker: Trivet
Trivet
A trivet is a quick and easy project that can be used
either in the kitchen or as part of a more formal
setting in the dining room, depending on your
needs. The project can be easily built from start to
finish in a weekend (indeed in a day if you use
fairly fast-setting glue). We used some left-over
scraps of Cherry to build this trivet, but you can
use any hardwood - particularly as the wood does
not come into direct contact with the hot pots and pans.
Construction
Tools required: router, sander

Sides 4 5/8" 3/8" 5 3/4"
Middle strips 3 5/8" 3/8" 5 3/4"
Edging strip 4 1/8" 3/8" 5 3/4"
Tiles 3/8" 1/4" 3/8"
The first step in this project is to prepare the four

side pieces. The easiest method of joining these
sides together is to use lap joints, whereby one
piece of wood sits on top of the other - overlapping
it (see diagram). The lap joint should cut into the
wood to a depth of 3/16" (half of the wood's thickness) and should cut back along
the length 5/8" (the result, once both ends have been cut should be a "clean" 4 1/2"
between each joint).
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Amateur Woodworker: Trivet
Once you have cut all of the lap joints correctly on

the four sides, place the four pieces roughly in
position. Choose the two (opposite) sides that sit
over the top of the other two sides; these will be the
sides that join into the middle strips. Mark and cut
three slots that are 5/8" wide and 3/8" deep in the
lower half of these two sides (see diagram). These
three slots should be evenly spaced along the side (i.e. approximately 5/8" apart).
Once you have prepared the sides, join them together with glue and a small screw
(from the underside).
Now prepare the three central strips by cutting a

lap joint in each end of them (again, 3/16" deep
and 5/8" long). Then rout out a groove 3/8" wide
and 3/16" deep along the upper side (the side that
had the lap joint wood removed from it --see
diagram). Note: the depth of this groove depends
upon the thickness of the small tile squares: the
tile should protrude above the height of the wood
by at least 1/16". This groove should be positioned in the center of the piece
(therefore leaving 1/8" on either side). Once this is done, glue and screw (again,
from the underside) the three middle strips into the main unit, thus forming the
completed shape.
Next add the small edging strip to the outside edge of all four sides with glue and
clamp until dry. The purpose of this edging strip is to hide the unsightly lap joint
ends. Once the edging strip is firmly glued in place, sand the entire unit and then
wax or oil, depending on your preference.
Now glue the small tile squares into the grooves, ensuring that you evenly space
them. We recommend a fast setting epoxy-type glue for this task (make sure that it
is heat resistant!). Once dry, fill the gaps between the tiles with tile grout.
Finally, apply thin strips of felt to the underside of the trivet. This will have the
double benefit of firstly hiding the evidence of the small screws and secondly
ensuring that the trivet does not scratch your dining room table.
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Additional Photos
http://www.am-wood.com/march99/trivet2.html [11/3/2003 1:41:38 à«]

Amateur Woodworker: Workbench
Workbench
This workbench plan uses 2 x 4s to
produce a relatively cheap, and
functional, workbench that can be
constructed in a day. Although the plan
does not include a vise, the inherent
stability of this workbench means that
you can easily add one if so required.
Under the workbench we have included
very basic drawers, hidden behind
cupboard doors, that can be used to store
all of your power - and other - tools.
Construction
Tools required: drill, sander, router, saw
Wood required:

Legs 4 3 1/2" 1 1/2" 28 1/2"
Side panels (plywood) 2 24" 1/2" 25"
Cross member
4 3 1/2" 1 1/2" 27 1/4"
supports
Central supports 4 2 1/2" 1 1/2" 28 1/2"
Central plywood
4 21" 1/2" 28 1/2"
dividers
Main workbench
2 3 1/2" 1 1/2" 92"
support
Base supports 2 2 1/2" 1 1/2" 53"
Workbench surface
1 27 1/4" 1/2" 92"
(plywood)
Back panel
1 28 1/2" 1/4" 56"
(hardboard)
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Drawers:
Sides 16 4" 3/4" 21 1/2"
Front/back 16 4" 3/4" 15 3/4"
Base (plywood) 8 15 1/2" 1/2" 21 1/2"
Doors:
Top and bottom 6 1 1/2" 3/4" 18 1/2"
Sides 6 1 1/2" 3/4" 23"
Door panel (plywood) 3 17" 1/2" 21 1/2"
Door trim 1 1 1/2" 1/2" 56"
Begin the project by building the leg structures: take

two legs and rest them on a flat surface (wide side
down), parallel to each other and 17" apart. Then, take
one of the plywood side panels and glue and screw it
to the two legs, flush with the bottom of the leg (and
therefore 3 1/2" of leg should protrude above the top of
the plywood). Repeat for the other leg.
Next, take one of the cross member supports and cut out a niche 1 3/4" deep by 1
1/2" long out of each end (see diagram). The purpose of this niche is that it will
form half of a lap joint with the main bench support (see later). Once you have cut
the niche out of both ends of the cross member, glue and screw the cross member
to the top of the side panel construction made above. This cross member should
attach to the two legs at the point where the plywood left off, and should jut out 1
1/8" either side. Repeat for the second side panel.
Now take the four central supports and cut out a

niche 1 1/2" wide by 3 1/2" long out of the bottom of
each one. Rout a groove that is 1/2" deep and 1"
wide out of the two wide sides of each support on the
non-niched sides (see diagram). This groove is cut to
accommodate the plywood central panels so that they
sit flush with the supports.
Once the four central supports have been cut and routed, glue and screw the center
plywood dividers into place. One plywood divider should attach to either side of
the central support, thus producing a hollow wall effect.
Now that the walls of the under-unit are complete, add the drawer runners. There
are three columns of drawers: the left and right columns should have three drawers

in them, while the central column has only two (to accommodate bigger power
tools). Attach drawer runners at a height of 3 1/2", 11" and 18 1/2" from the
bottom of the unit for the left and right two, and at a height of 3 1/2" and 14" for
the central column.
Once the center supports are complete, take the main workbench supports and cut
out a niche that is 1 1/2" wide, 1 3/4" high and 18" from either end, from the
bottom half of the supports (see diagram). This niche will allow the main support
to slot into the top of the two side pieces constructed above. Also, cut out a niche 1
1/2" wide and 1 3/4" deep from the top of each end (again, see diagram). These
end niches form half of a lap joint, the other half being made by the remaining two
central supports.
Cut out a niche 1 1/2" wide and 1 3/4" deep from the end of each remaining two
central supports, thus allowing these supports to slot into main workbench
supports when we put everything together.
Everything is now ready and we can begin to

build the main workbench structure. Start by
placing the two base supports on the floor,
parallel to each other and 17" apart. Then,
screw one of the side panels to one end of
these supports, and the other side panel to the
other end.
Next, screw and glue the two central panels into place, equidistant from each end
(17 2/3" from each side panel). To attach these, screw in from the front and back
of the base support. You should now have four panels sitting perpendicular to the
base. Add the two main workbench supports to the top of the construction, gluing
and screwing into all for panels. Make sure that all of the panels remain square
(i.e. they do not lean to one side or another).
Now add the two remaining central supports, one to each end of the main
workbench supports, to join the ends of the workbench together. You now have
the basic framework of the workbench complete. Glue and screw the main
workbench surface to the top of the construction. This will help to make the unit
more sturdy.
Finally, nail the hardboard panel to the back of the unit to seal off the drawers
from sawdust. This is an optional stage (particularly if the unit is going to be used
against a wall as we would advise) but it should cut down on sawdust "leakage."
Building the drawers

The main bench frame is complete, and it is time to

build the eight drawers. The level of quality that you
throw at this issue is entirely up to you. We chose to
make very simple drawers that were screwed together -
no dovetailing or other nice joints were used. This was
acceptable (to us at least) because firstly this is a
workbench and secondly, the drawers will be hidden behind cupboard doors.
Take the side, front and back pieces and glue/screw them together, ensuring that
the frame is square. Then, glue and screw the plywood base to the underside. Once
dry, attach the drawer runners. The drawers should now slot into the spaces
allocated for them.
Building the doors
The doors are made from a pine frame and a plywood center.
First, cut the side, top and bottom pieces of pine to the
correct sizes. Each end of these pieces should be cut to a 45
degree angle to provide the correct joint (i.e. a 90 degree
angle). Next, cut the outside edge (outer facing) of the side
frame pieces to a miter of 45 degrees (see diagram). This is important firstly
because it makes the doors look less heavy, and secondly, to allow the second door
to open without pushing into door three.
Once you have mitered the two sides, rout out a groove on the inside, rear facing
edge. This groove should be 1/2" deep and 3/4" wide and is made to accommodate
the plywood panel. This groove should be cut out of both the two sides and the top
and bottom pieces. Once this is done, glue the four frame pieces together. At the
same time, add the plywood panel, gluing it into place (this will help to ensure that
the door is square).
Once the panel is dry, sand the door down to round off the miter to a smooth
curve. Then attach to the main unit with hinges. The door should be attached 1/2"
from the base (this leaving 1 1/2" above the door. Once all three doors have been
attached, glue and screw the final door trim piece into the center supports above
the doors (thus filling the gap between the workbench and the top of the doors.
Also at this time, add door knobs to the three doors.

Additional Photos
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Additional Photos
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Amateur Woodworker: Chinese-style abacus lamp
Abacus Lamp
The point of this project was to design a low-light
lamp that would provide interesting shadows through
the use of two abaci (the plural of abacus?). However,
these particular abacuses have sentimental value to
my aunt and, while she certainly wanted to do
something with them, she did not want them to be
damaged. The result was this Chinese-influenced
lamp, which allows the abaci to be freely removed.
While you may not have any abaci yourself, the lamp
is still easy to complete by either buying the abacus
(often available in your local Chinatown) or by
making your own (see the end of the project for more
details). The wood used in this project was standard
pine, stained to give a heavy Chinese feel (and to
match the color of the abaci).
Construction:
Tools required: router, sander, drill
Wood required: (Pine)

Pillars 4 1 1/2" 1 1/4" 12 1/4"
Dowels 22 3/16" 3/16" 6 1/2"
Pillar support bridges 4 3/8" 3/4" 6"
Base 1 11" 3/4" 11"
Vertical dowels 4 3/16" 3/16" 12 1/2"
Dowel supports 2 1/2" 1/8" 7 3/4"
Lamp shade 4 4 1/2" 1/2" 11 1/2"
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Begin the project by cutting the four pillars to

the correct length (12 1/4") and then rout out
a groove that is 1" wide and 3/8" deep into
one of the 1 1/2" sides of each pillar. This
side will be the one that fits against the
abacus and allows the abacus to be slid in and
out as required (a necessity as the abaci used
in this project were family heirlooms). Once
you have routed the groove, sand the pillar to slightly round off the edges.
Now that you have made the grooves,

position the four pillars as they will
stand in the finished item (i.e. so that
matching grooves face each other).
Once the pillar are so positioned, mark
the side that will also be a "facing side"
(see diagram). This side will have the
wooden dowels attached to it to
provide a quasi-abacus look to the two
walls that do not have real abaci on
them.
Now that you have marked the dowel sides, drill 11 holes into these sides. Each
hole should be centered on the width of the pillar (i.e. 5/8" from either side) and
should be 1" apart from top to bottom (leaving a slightly larger 1 1/4" gap at the
top). Each hole should be 1/4" deep and 3/16" diameter (the same as the diameter
of the dowel).
Now that the basic components are ready, it is almost time to construct the
"barred/doweled" walls. However, before we glue everything together stain the
pillars and the four pillar bridge supports a dark color. We chose to use Jacobean
(the darkest stain we could find), although any dark stain will suffice. The reason
for staining the wood now is that we want to keep the dowels their natural light
color. If we try and stain once the wall in complete, the stain will seep into the
dowels at each end, thus ruining the effect.
Once the stain is dry, glue the dowels into the pillar holes, thus forming a "side
unit" of two pillars with the dowels forming a wall between. At the same time,
glue in the top and bottom pillar bridge support pieces. These do not need any
special joint as the glue clamped under pressure should be adequate (there will be
no weight put on these items - they are simply for decoration). When clamping,
make sure that the unit is square.

While these two side units are drying, cut out the base wood, round off the edges
and corners and then sand. One good way to round off the edges of the base is to
use a curved router bit. However, if you do not have a suitable shape (these router
bits are often quite expensive) then a heavy dose of sanding will provide a
perfectly good finish. The base should then be stained the same color as the pillars.
Once everything is dry, position the two sides (with the abaci in position, thus
forming a square looking from above) on the base and, when evenly positioned,
mark the location of the four corner pillars. Then attach the pillars to the base by
running screws through the base (from below) into the pillars. You should now be
able to slide the abacuses in and out freely. However, at this point, be careful not
to apply any side pressure to the walls. Because the unit is only attached at the
bottom, it is currently very delicate and, if you are not careful, the walls may get
bent outwards. This problem is dealt with later when we add the dowel supports.
To finish the base, we need to add the vertical dowels around which the rice paper
is wrapped. Drill holes in each corner of the "inner" frame - see previous diagram -
that are 3/16" diameter (the same diameter as the dowel to be used) and 1/4" deep.
Then position the four 12 1/2" long dowels into these holes.
Then, take the two thin strips of wood - the "dowel support pieces" and place them
above the dowels, screwing them into the four pillars. Ensure that the dowels are
perpendicular to the base and support pieces and then drive a small nail through
the support piece into the top of each dowel, thus stopping the dowels from
moving. These support pieces also have the added benefit of strengthening the
main unit so that, if the abacuses are removed, the structure is still strong.
Now that the main unit is (almost)

complete, it is time to build the shade.
This is made of four pieces of wood,
with a hole in the top, to funnel the
light accordingly. Cut the four shade
side pieces out as shown in the
diagram. The base length of each piece
should be 11 1/2", with the top length
4 7/8" and a height of 4 1/2" between
top and base. The angled sides should be cut as shown at an angle of
approximately 52 degrees, with a bevel of 33 degrees. Once cut out, glue the four
together the form the shade. To clamp this awkward shape, we recommend
wrapping tape tightly around the shade.
Once the glue is dry, stain the shade to match the rest of the unit. Then, varnish the
lamp shade and main unit. Once the varnish is dry, drill a small hole through the

base (somewhere near the center) to pass the electrical cable through and then wire
up a bulb holder. For specific wiring details, please refer to a home improvement
manual or, if in doubt, consult an electrician.
Finally, thread the rice paper around all four vertical dowels, using a little glue to
adhere the paper to each dowel. We recommend an almond paste for gluing the
rice paper (available from the craft store that sold you the paper usually).
Building an abacus
As mentioned previously, you should be able to pick up an abacus from any

Chinatown. However, in case you do not live near one, here is a basic description
of how to build an abacus.
Wood required: (pine)

Sides 2 3/8" 1" 12 1/4"
Top and bottom 2 3/8" 1" 7 1/8"
Center divider 1 3/8" 1" 11 1/2"
Dowel rods 11 3/16" 3/16" 6 1/2"
Beads 77 3/8" 3/8" 7/8"
Cut the sides, top and bottom to size. Each end should be
cut with a 45 degree miter. Drill holes into the inside of
each of the two side pieces. You need to drill 11 holes,
evenly interspersed (every inch). The hole should be
3/16" diameter and 1/8" deep. Once these holes are cut,
drill holes all the way through the center divider that are
in matching positions to the side holes (see diagram).
Before attaching everything together we recommend that

you stain all but the dowels.
Thread the dowels through the holes in the divider. Feed the beads onto the dowels
as follows: on one side of the divider, place two beads. On the other side, place
five. Then, glue each end of the dowel into one of the side pieces (in the shallow
holes you previously drilled). Then, glue to top and bottom pieces to the side

pieces, as well as to the center divider (which should be positioned 2" from the left
side). Drill a small brad nail through the top and bottom pieces into the center
divider to increase its strength. Then clamp the unit until dry.

Additional Photos
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Amateur Woodworker: Quilt Hanger
Quilt Hanger
A quilt hanger is a very simple project. At its
most basic, the hanger is essentially two pieces of
thin wood that are screwed together, clamping the
top of the quilt in between them. The only tricky
parts are coming up with a design that successfully hides both the screws that
clamp the two pieces of wood together as well as the screws used to attach the
hanger to the wall.
Construction
Tools required: drill, sander, router, plane or circular saw
Wood required: (cherry)
Note that the length of the quilt hanger depends upon the width of the quilt in
question. In the below example, the quilt is 67" wide.

Top wood 1 2" 3/4" 67"
Underlying wood 1 2" 1/2" 67"
First take the top wood and miter the two front facing
edges to a 45 degree angle (see diagram). The reason
for doing this is purely decorative: we didn't want to
make a hanger that appeared to be too "blocky" and mitering the edges like this
makes it look less intrusive.
Next, on the underside of the top wood, rout out a groove that is 3/8" wide, 1/8"
deep and begins 1/4" from the lower edge of the hanger (again, refer to diagram).
This groove should run the entire length of the hanger. The purpose of this groove
is to allow for the additional thickness that most quilts have around the edge. This
thicker edge sits in the groove allowing the wood to clamp together at the lowest
point of the wood.
The top wood should now be sanded to round out the miter, thus making it a
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smoother surface.
The underlying wood is in some ways even simpler to build as it requires no

miters. This piece has the hanging slots and the screw holes for clamping the two
pieces of wood together. First, make five small holes 7/8" from the top side of the
wood, evenly spaced with the outer two holes being 1" from each end. Nominate
one side of the wood to be the side that will make contact with the wall and
countersink the drill holes on this side. These holes will accommodate the small
screws that are used to clamp the two pieces of wood together. Note that because
they are drilled at a distance of 7/8" from the top of the wood, the screws will not
damage the quilt, but will attach just above the routed groove made in the top
wood earlier.
To hang the quilt on the wall, we need to devise a method of

hooking the hanger onto screws that are drilled into the wall.
To do this, we need to make three "keyholes." First, drill a hole
that is 3/8" diameter, 3" from one end of the hanger and 1"
from the top. Then, 1/4" above this hole, drill a smaller hole
that is 1/8" diameter (just larger than the diameter of the screw
that will attach the hanger to the wall). Then, on the side that is
not going to make contact with the wall, drill out this smaller
hole to a diameter of 3/8" and to a depth of 1/4".
Finally, with a knife or keyhole saw,

connect the two holes together to
form the desired shape. The
underlying premise of this
construction is that the screw will be
pushed into the space made by the
larger hole. Then the quilt hanger
will be dropped down a little so that
the screw is firmly slotted into the small hole.
Repeat this keyhole at the other end of the hanger, and one in the center.
Finally, sand the quilt hanger and wax.


Amateur Woodworker: Storage Shelving
Storage Shelving
Functional storage shelving is one of the most often request
projects from you, our readers. The need varies from
somewhere to keep those bulk purchases in the basement to
simple shelving for in the workshop. Our resulting project
should accommodate either choice and leaves plenty of
room for modification to suit your own particular
requirements. More importantly, the project is very cheap as
it uses standard 2-by-3's as the main framework. Although
this is rough, construction-grade lumber, once sanded down
it provides a perfectly adequate surface for painting or even
varnishing.
Construction
Tools required: Jigsaw, sander, drill
Wood required:
Description Qty Thickness Length Width

Main legs (2x3) 6 1 1/2" 72" 2 1/2"
Front and back supports 10 1 1/2" 96" 2 1/2"
Side supports 10 1 1/2" 15" 2 1/2"
Shelves (plywood) 5 1/2" 18" 98"
The first step is to prepare the front, back and side

supports. These pieces need to have a 1/2" deep slot
routed out of them that is 1" wide (see diagram). The
shelves will fit into these slots, thus giving a nice
finishes look to the shelving rather than showing the
edge of the plywood.
Once you have cut out all of the slots, it is time to construct the two side
frameworks. To construct a side frame, take two of the leg supports and lay them
flat on the floor so that the 2 1/2" width is showing. Then, attach the side supports
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Amateur Woodworker: Storage Shelving
(with the routed groove pointing up and inwards) by gluing and screwing through
the 2 1/2" width (see diagram). Ideally, the side supports should be attached at
even intervals (every 30"), but you can modify this to suit your own requirements.
Repeat for the other side, taking care to ensure that the routed groove points
towards the middle of the shelving unit. Take the time to ensure that all joints are
square; otherwise you may end up with a shelving unit that leans!
Once the sides are complete (and the glue has

dried) it is time to attach the front and back
supports. Again, these are attached using glue
and screws, and should match the heights of
the side pieces. Once attached, the result
should be a complete frame. To strengthen
this frame, take one of the two remaining leg
pieces and attach it in the middle of the front
frame by simply gluing and screwing into the
support pieces. This will stop the unit from
sagging in the middle.
Take the shelving pieces (which should be cut to shape as mentioned in the wood
list) and cut a small notch out of the corner of each one. This notch should be a 1"
by 1" square and will allow the shelves to sit snuggly against the four corner legs.
Now, place the shelves into place. To do this, slide them in from the back (the
front central leg makes it impossible from the front).
Once all shelves are in place, and everything looks okay, attach the final leg to the
center of the back frame (thus matching the front one). Sand the unit thoroughly
and paint if so desired.
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Amateur Woodworker: CD Cabinet
CD Cabinet
There are two schools of thought when it comes to storing
your CDs. The first school is based on the idea that CDs
are something that should be displayed while the second
school says that CDs should be hidden away - to be
brought out only when choosing the next musical choice.
I'm a believer in the latter school and so I created this CD
cabinet. The underlying design idea was to make a
mission-style cabinet which can form part of the core
furnishings in a living room (and holds over 200 CDs). In
the coming months we'll be adding to this by including a
TV cabinet design, a side table and possibly a lamp.
Construction
Tools required: saw, router, sander, drill
Wood required: Cherry

Front legs 2 2 1/2" 1 3/4" 40"
Rear legs 2 2 1/2" 3/4" 40"
Doors 2 9" 1/2" 33"
Strengthening bar 2 1 1/2" 1/2" 8"
Front top band 1 2" 3/4" 18"
Front base band 1 3 1/2" 3/4" 18"
Side top band 2 2" 3/4" 6 1/2"
Side base band 2 2" 3/4" 6 1/2"
Side panel 2 6 1/2" 1/2" 32 3/4"
Rear top band 1 2" 3/4" 18"
Rear base band 1 2" 3/4" 18"
Rear panel 1 19" 1/4" 33 1/2"
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Top 1 10" 3/4" 22"

Shelves 5 7" 1/2" 18"
Shelf ledges 8 1/4" 1/4" 7"
The first step (and most complex) is cutting the front

legs to shape. The front legs are cut from a block of
cherry that is 2 1/2" x 1 3/4" in profile and 40" long.
Firstly, nominate two adjoining sides to be the inner
sides (one will face back while the other will have
the door attached to it). Then, mark out the sloping
cut on the side profile and cut this using a circular saw (or preferably a table saw).
When this is done, mark out the second slope and also cut this.
The end result is a leg that is 2 1/2" x 1 3/4" at the base and 7/8" x 7/8" at the top
(see diagram). Repeat the above steps to make the second front leg, but ensure that
the second front leg is a mirror image of the first. Once these legs are cut to shape,
plane them (if necessary) to make sure they are even and then sand.
Next, cut the rear legs to shape. The rear legs should match the profile of the front
legs as seen from the front (i.e. the angled slop in from the side) but do not have a
front to back slope. Because of this, there is only one cut needed for each leg and
the result should be a leg that is 2 1/2" x 3/4" at the bottom and 7/8" x 3/4" at the
top.
Once you have cut the rear legs to shape, nominate a front and back for each leg.
Then, rout out a 1/4" deep groove that is 1/2" wide down the vertical slope of the
back of each leg (i.e. the side that is closest to the center). This groove will
accommodate the rear plywood panel when it is time to put everything together
later.
Take the side bands (both top and bottom) and rout a
1/2" deep groove that is 1/4" wide in the inside of
each one (see diagram). Note the side that has the
groove in it will be the inside that points towards the
center; in other words, for the top band pieces, the
groove will face the bottom inside and for the bottom
bands, the groove will face the top inside of the band. This groove will
accommodate the side panels.
You can now glue the top and bottom bands to the side panel to form a solid side
panel. The result should be a flush fit on the inside of the unified panel, with the
top and bottom bands jutting out 1/4" on the outer side of the panel.

Now that the side panels are constructed, cut the

front top and base bands to shape. The front top
band should have a 1/4" deep, 1/4" wide groove
cut out of the lower outside edge. This will
provide a ledge for the door to rest against. The bottom front band is more
complex. Rather than having a simple straight piece, I went for a more stylish
design (see diagram). However, if this is not to your taste this is an ideal way to
differentiate the design somewhat and a straight-lined, jagged look would work
very well. Again, whatever shape you opt for, you should rout out a 1/4" deep,
1/4" wide groove in the top front side of it to act as a door ledge.
The back two bands are far more basic (after all, you can't see them!). Cut out a
groove that is 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide out of the back side of each one to allow the
plywood rear panel to overlap.
Now it is time to begin the construction. Note that unless otherwise stated, all
joints are simple glued dowel joints requiring nothing more complicated than the
ability to drill a hole (see joints section for more details). Attach the front top and
bottom bands to the two front legs to form the front frame. The base band should
be attached so that the top of it is 34 5/8" from the top of the leg. Then attach the
rear top and bottom bands to the rear legs to form the rear frame. Add the rear
plywood panel at this time (by gluing and nailing from the back). Make sure that
the good side of the plywood will face the front, not the back). The profile of both
front and back frames should be identical.
While waiting for these frame to dry, attach the shelving ledges into place. These
should be fitted at even intervals up the height of the side panels (naturally on the
inside of each panel). Note that there must be at least 5" between each shelf in
order to allow for a CD, although I would recommend 6" which provides for a less
cramped look. Attach these ledges using small nails and glue.
Once the front and back constructions are glued solid it is time to add the side
panels, thus forming a solid unit. At the same time that you add the side panels you
must also add the bottom shelf. This bottom shelf should sit flush with the top of
the front base band and should also by attached using dowels. Practice dry-fitting
the sides, base, front and back before applying glue to make sure you have it all
fitting correctly. Clamp overnight.
Once the construction is dry attach the top -- again, using dowel joints.
Before attaching the doors, cut a 1/4" deep, 1/4" wide groove in the top and bottom
of each one. The side that you cut these grooves into will become the inside of the

door panel. This groove should match up with the top and bottom band grooves,
thus allowing the doors to close snuggly.
To finish off the doors, attach the door strengthening

bar to each door. This is to help stop the doors (which
are quite thin) from warping too easily. This bar
should be glued onto the inside of each door panel at a
height of 9 1/4" from the top of the door. Further, this
panel also provides a stronger place to attach the door
pull into. Note that the door strengthening bars should
have mitered edges, rather than being cut straight at a 90 degree angle as you
would usual (see diagram).
To attach the doors to the unit, use offset hinges (see diagram). These
mean that you do not need to make insets for the hinges and, further,
will allow for the fact that the hinges must fit tightly against the front
legs.
Finally, sand the unit down, wax it and add door pulls to suit your
taste.

Additional Photos
http://www.am-wood.com/sept98/cd2.html [11/3/2003 1:45:32 à«]

Amateur Woodworker: Picture Frame
Picture frame
The idea behind this picture frame was twofold.: the main
goal was to build a frame that did not detract from the photo
held within it (in this case a landscape shot). The second
goal was to try and portray a sense of depth to the picture.
The first goal was easily attained by using solid hard maple
to create a strong feel to the frame and the second goal was
attained by leaving space between the glass and the photo.
Construction
Tools required: router, sander, saw
Wood required: (hard maple)
Sides 2 1 3/4" 1 3/4" 18 1/4"

Top/bottom 2 1 3/4" 1 3/4" 15"
Inner sides (edging) 2 3/4" 3/4" 15 1/4"
Inner top/bottom (edging) 2 3/4" 3/4" 12"
Back (plywood) 1 12 1/2" 1/4" 15 3/4"
Construction
First, take the sides, top and bottom and cut to shape. Each end of the items should
be cut to a 45 degree angle so that when placed together they result in a frame.
Once cut to size, rout out a groove on the inside (back)

edge of each piece. This groove should be 1/2" wide
and 1 1/4" deep (thus leaving a thickness of 1/2"
remaining from front to back). Note that Hard Maple
is, like its name would suggest, a hard wood.
Therefore rout out this groove gradually taking many
sweeps through with the router. If you are impatient
and try to take too much off you'll end up ruining a
perfectly good router bit! At this point, glue the four
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Amateur Woodworker: Picture Frame
frame pieces together and clamp overnight. If desired, you can use very thin panel
pins to nail the items together, although wood glue alone should easily suffice.
While this outer frame is gluing we will build the inner sub
frame. This sub frame is made out of edging wood (see
diagram for cross profile) that is available at most home
improvement stores. As with the outer frame, cut the
pieces to size with 45 degree miter. Plan before you cut so
that the four pieces result in a frame. This inner frame will
sit under the main frame (see cross profile diagram). Note
that the exact size of these pieces should be the length of
the space available within the hole of the main frame, plus
the measurement marked as "X" on the edging piece (as this is the amount that the
inner frame sits inside the outer one).
Once you have cut these items to size, clamp and glue overnight. Once dry, sand
this inner frame and then paint it matte black to give a more subtle illusion of
depth.
Have a piece of glass cut to fit inside the outer

frame and then place this in the frame. On top of
the glass, add the inner sub frame. Then, add the
photo that you want to use. Finally, add in the back
sheet of plywood and use small panel nails tacked
into the inside back of the main frame to hold the
construction together.
Finally, attach picture frame wire between two

small screws, one in the rear of each side piece, so that you have a means of
hanging the picture.
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Amateur Woodworker: Lamp
Mission-Style Lamp
The majority of lamps that are available on the market
involve the use of a lathe. However, turned lamps are not
the only solution and, as this lamp proves, it is entirely
possible to build an attractive lamp without any special
tools whatsoever. This lamp is heavily influenced by the
Mission-style, a style that is increasing in popularity at
present. The lamp is very easy to make and the project can
be completed in a weekend.
Construction
Tools required: Circular saw (or band saw), sander, drill
Description Qty Thickness Width Length

Pillar Sides* 4 1/2" (13 mm) 2" (51 mm) 13" (330 mm)
Small Base 1 1/2" (13 mm) 5" (127 mm) 5" (127 mm)
Large Base 1 1/2" (13 mm) 7" (178 mm) 7" (178 mm)
Top Platform 1 1/2" (13 mm) 1 3/4" (44 mm) 1 3/4" (44 mm)
* Note: The best approach is to cut these four side pieces out of one larger
sheet of wood that is 8" wide.
The first step is to cut the four pillar sides to the

correct shape. Each side piece should be 2" wide at
the bottom, 1/2" wide at the top and 13" long. Each
side should be cut at a 45 degree angle so that the
four sides fit together snugly (see diagram). The
easiest way to cut these sides is with a table saw.
However, if you do not own a table saw you can use a circular saw or a band saw.
To help clamp down the wood (which is fairly small) nail a sheet of plywood to
the underside of the cherry and then clamp the cherry in place. When nailing the
plywood to the cherry, you should only nail into the wood in the extreme 1/2"
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band at the top and bottom of the cherry. This is because the top and bottom 1/2" if
the pillar is later trimmed off, thus removing all nail holes.
Once you have cut all four sides, roughly dry-fit them together (ie without glue).
You will notice that there is no gap at the top through which the wire can fit. To
resolve this problem, plane or sand off a 1/8" sliver from the inside of each side
near the top (see diagram). The result should be a small hole through which the
wire can be threaded later. Now glue all four sides together and clamp. The best
way to clamp this pillar is to use electrical tape tightly bound around the pillar at
the top, bottom and in the middle.
When the pillar is firmly glued, rim off the top and bottom 1/2" (thus giving a final
height of 12"). By trimming off the top and bottom you should remove all nail
holes that were made when cutting the sides to shape. Note that when cutting the
pillar, the saw angle should be at 3 degrees (both vertically and horizontally) in
order to counter the angle of the pillar. Sand the pillar, lightly rounding the
corners.
Next, cut the 5" base to size. All four sides should be
cut at a bevel of 45 degrees. Once cut, plane or sand
the top 3/8" of the bevel to an angle of roughly 20
degrees (see diagram) thus producing a two-angled
side view (the actual angle should be based on a
bevel that starts 3/8" from the top of the wood that
cuts up towards where the base of the pillar will fit).
This is an optional step and you may prefer to leave
the base with just the 45 degree steps in order to have
a more pronounced "mission" style.
Repeat the above step for the 7" base, ensuring that the rough 20 degree angle
starts 3/8" from the top of the 7" base up to where the 5" base sits on top of it
(again, see diagram).
Drill a 1/4" hole in the center of both bases for the electrical wire to pass through.
Then, on the underside of the 7" base, rout a groove from the middle of one side to
the center of the base (where the 1/4" hole is). This groove should be 1/2" wide
and 1/4" deep and will accommodate the wire, allowing it to run out of the base
towards the electrical socket. When cutting this groove, make sure it runs out to
the least attractive side of the base (ie the rear side).
Now that you have prepared the two base pieces and the central pillar, position the
pillar in the center of the smaller 5" square base and glue/screw the base to the
pillar from the underside of the base. Then, glue/screw the larger, 7", base to the

underside of the 5" base, ensuring that the smaller base in positioned centrally on
the larger base. Set the resulting construction aside to dry.
Now cut the top platform to size. It should be 1 3/4" square,

beveled at 45 degrees. Once cut to size, drill a 1/4" hole through
the middle of it. This hole will accommodate the base structure
of the lighting kit (see diagram) and therefore will vary in size
depending upon the lighting kit used. Once the hole has been cut,
glue the top platform onto the top of the pillar and clamp until
dry.
Then, sand down the entire unit thoroughly and finish with your
choice of wax, oil or other suitable finish. Once complete, wire
the lamp as described within the instructions provided with your
lighting kit. Note that the diagram shown here is only for
illustration and should not be used as a basis for wiring your lamp. If you have any
doubts, please consult an electrician.

Amateur Woodworker: Stool
Ergonomic stool
Ergonomic stools provide the combined benefit of
being both good for your back and being a
convenient spare due to the fact that you can fold
them up when they are not in use. The stool is
surprisingly easy to construct: there are no
complicated joints to make and no special tools
required. This stool is made out of 1 1/2" thick
dowel, which can be difficult to find. However, if
you cannot find this thickness you can get away with
1 1/4" wood.
Construction
Tools required: Drill, sander
Wood required: (beech)

Base support 2 1 1/2" (38 mm) 1 1/2" (38 mm) 16" (406 mm)
21 3/4" (552
Back legs 2 1 1/2" (38 mm) 1 1/2" (38 mm)
mm)
19 1/2" (495
Front legs 2 1 1/2" (38 mm) 1 1/2" (38 mm)
mm)
Cross support
1 1 1/2" (38 mm) 1 1/2" (38 mm) 6" (152 mm)
beam
Vertical support
1 1 1/2" (38 mm) 1 1/2" (38 mm) 5" (127 mm)
beam
Joining dowels 4 7/8" (22 mm) 7/8" (22 mm) 1 3/4" (44 mm)
Seat rest dowels 4 7/8" (22 mm) 7/8" (22 mm) 3/4" (19 mm)
Top seat
1 1/4" (6 mm) 6 1/2" (165 mm) 14" (356 mm)
(plywood)
Knee seat 13 1/2" (346
1 1/4" (6 mm) 9" (229 mm)
(plywood) mm)
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Stopper body 4 1" (25 mm) 1" (25 mm) 1 1/2" (38 mm)
Stopper end 4 1 1/2" (38 mm) 1 1/2" (28 mm) 3/8" (10 mm)
First we need to construct the four stoppers. To make these, take four pieces of
dowel 1" diameter and 1 1/2" long. On one end of each of these glue a narrow
sliver of dowel that is 1 1/2" diameter and 3/8" long. The result is a small
mushroom-shaped stopper.
Take one of the two base support pieces and drill a 7/8" diameter hole that is 1/2"
deep and 6 1/4" from either end (and therefore, and more importantly, 3 3/4"
apart). Glue a joining dowel into each of the holes. This is the front base support.
Next take the second base support (this is now the rear base support). Drill two
holes (again 7/8" wide and 1/2" deep) that are 4 1/2" from either end, and therefore
7" apart. Glue two dowels into the holes.
Take one the two rear legs and drill a 7/8" diameter hole that is 1/2" deep in one
end. This hole will slot into one of the rear support dowels later and, as such, is the
bottom end of the rear leg. Drill a hole 1/4" diameter all the way through the leg at
a distance of 14 5/8" from the bottom end. This hole is to accommodate the longer
metal rod that is used to connect the front and back legs together.
Consider the hole that is drilled all of the way through the leg to go from one side
to another and, based on this, nominate a top (at 90 degrees to the side). Drill two
holes 7/8" diameter and 1/2" deep that are 12 1/4" and 20" from the bottom of the
leg into this top side. Glue the seat supports into these two holes. Then drill a
further hole that is 8 3/4" from the bottom of the leg (again, in the top). This hole
should be 7/8" diameter and 1/2" deep. Glue the seat stopper into this hole.
Repeat the above steps for the second rear leg.
Take one of the front legs and drill a 7/8" diameter hole
that is 1/2" deep in the center of one end. This is the
bottom end of the front leg. Then drill a hole that is 1/4"
diameter, all the way through the leg at distances of 6
1/2" and 12 1/2" from the bottom. The lower of these
holes will accommodate the longer metal rod that joins
the front and rear legs. The higher hole is for the smaller
metal bar that interconnects the two front legs to the
vertical support. To finish off the front legs, cut the top
of the front legs at an angle of 45 degrees.

Repeat the above steps for the second front leg.
Now it is time to begin the stool's assembly. Glue the two front legs into the front
base support dowels. Glue and screw the plywood seat to the angled, top, end of
these legs.
Next, take the two rear legs and glue them into the rear base support. Position the
two rear legs either side of the front legs and then glue and screw the knee rest into
the four seat supports. [Note that the knee support should be cut into a U shape to
allow the front supports to pass thorugh the middle of the U while gaining the
maximum knee supoprt space on either side. To do this, cut out an area that is 4"
in from the back and 7" wide]] The result is that the front and rear legs, while not
yet connected together, are intertwined.
To join the front and rear legs, pass the longer metal bar through the correct holes
in both the front and rear legs, thus connecting them together.
Now, join the vertical support to the cross beam support by use of one of the
joining dowels, as explained previously. In each end of the cross beam, drill a 7/8"
diameter hole that is 1/2" deep. Add into this one of the four stoppers. Repeat this
for the other end.
Then, drill a hole for the metal bar at a height of 1 1/4" from the top of the vertical
support. Then, connect this support to the two front legs by sliding the smaller
metal bar through the two legs, via the vertical support.
Now, sand the entire stool and then finish with wax. Finally, add foam padding to
the knee and top seat and cover it.

Amateur Woodworker: Chest of Drawers
Chest of Drawers
Building a chest of drawers is a surprisingly easy
project and is well worth the effort as it means that you
can build a chest that is large enough to fit all of your
particulars in it. Typically, you can build this chest of
drawers in a weekend, although you should expect the
project to take a little longer if you intend to paint it.
Construction
Tools required: Router, sander, circular saw, drill, jigsaw
Description Qty Depth Width Length

Front/Back of unit
Top and bottom planks 4 3/4" 2 1/2" 33"
Side planks 4 3/4" 2 1/2" 40"
Middle planks 4 3/4" 1 1/2" 33"
Central strut 2 3/4" 1 1/2" 8"
Front top edging 1 coving 38 1/2"
Front base edging 1 3/4" 3 1/2" 37 1/2"
Sides of unit
Side planks 4 3/4" 2 1/2" 40"
Top and bottom 4 3/4" 2 1/2" 14 3/4"
Middle plywood 2 1/2" 11" 36 1/2"
Side top edging 2 coving 18 1/2"
Side base edging 2 3/4" 3 1/2" 17"
Top of unit (ply) 1 1/2" 18 1/4" 38 1/4"
Drawers
Drawer sides 10 1/2" 6 1/2" 15 1/2"
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Small drawer back 2 1/2" 6 1/2" 12 3/4"

Small drawer inner front 2 1/2" 6 1/2" 12 3/4"
Small drawer front 2 3/4" 8 1/2" 15 3/4"
Small drawer base (ply) 2 1/4" 13" 15"
Large drawer back 3 1/2" 6 1/2" 29"
Large drawer inner front 3 1/2" 6 1/2" 29"
Large drawer front 2 3/4" 8 1/2" 32 1/4"
Large drawer base (ply) 3 1/4" 15" 29 1/4"
Drawer knobs 8
The best way to approach building a chest of drawers is to break it down into a
number of distinct tasks that can be attached together at a later stage.
Building the front
The front of the chest is rather unimpressive, at least

until you add the decorative trim at the end of the
project. The side pieces are joined to the middle, top
and bottom planks by using lap joints. Take one of the
side pieces and cut out the following grooves to a
depth of 3/8". Note that these grooves should be in the
back of the side pieces. All grooves should be cut in 1" from the inside edge (see
diagram for more explanation).
Measuring from the nominated top of the side piece:
● Cut from 0" (i.e. the top) to 2 1/2" (for the top plank)
● Cut from 10" to 11 1/2" (for the middle plank)
● Cut from 37 1/2" to 40" (i.e. the bottom, for the bottom plank)
Repeat this process for the second side piece. Then

take the top, bottom and middle planks and cut out a
groove that is 3/8" deep, 1" in from the side at each
end of each plank. This allows these planks to fit
snugly in the side pieces, without jutting out. Once
this is done, glue and screw (from the back) the sides
to the middle, top and bottom planks, ensuring that

the resulting frame is square. Finally, glue the central support between the upper
middle and the top support, equidistant from each side. This does not need a lap
joint (there will be no pressure on it) but it is best to tack it into place with a small
nail.
Building the back frame
Construction of the back frame is far easier as there

is no need for lap joints. Simply glue and screw the
top, bottom and middle planks onto the front (i.e. the
side that will be facing forward) of the two side
pieces. Ensure that the resulting frame is square, and
that it matches the dimensions of the front frame.
Then glue and screw the central support to the top
and middle planks so that it is flush with the side pieces (i.e. sits further back than
the middle support).
Building the side frame
Take the side, top and bottom pieces and rout a groove
along the inside edge of each one that runs the full
distance of the plank, is 1/2" wide and 1/2" deep. Note
that this groove is on the inside edge, on the inner side
(i.e. the side that faces inwards). This groove is cut to
allow the central plywood sheet to rest in it.
Next, cut a lap joint on the inside (i.e. the same side
that had the groove routed in it) of the two side pieces.
The lap joint groove should be 3/8" deep, the full
width of the plank, and 2 1/2" from the end inwards.
Then, cut a lap joint on the outer side (the side that does not have the routed
groove) of the top and bottom pieces to match this lap joint. Glue and screw (from
the inside) the top and bottom to the two side pieces, ensuring that the resulting
frame is square. Then glue the plywood sheet into the groove that now runs all the
way around the inside of the side frame.
Putting the frame together
Now that all four sides have been built, it is time to put it all together. If you intend
to paint the chest, this can be done with screws. However, if you intend to keep the
chest "au natural" then we recommend that you use dowel joints.

The two side pieces should be attached to the front and back frames, so that the
total width of the project remains the width of the front frame, while the depth of
the unit becomes the width of the side piece plus the depth of the front and back
pieces. By doing this, the joint between the front and side is on the side of the unit,
not the front, and is thus less obvious.
As you are attaching the four frames together, ensure that the unit remains square.
Once you have attached all four, add the top plywood as this will help to
strengthen the construction. The top unit should be positioned so that it overhangs
the front by 1 1/2" (and therefore only overhangs the back by 1/2"). Glue and
screw (or use dowel joints and small panel nails if you are not painting) the top to
the sides, front and back. Clamp the entire unit until thoroughly dry.
Adding the decorative trim
To lessen the impact of the joint between the top and the
main frame, we elected to use the type of coving that is
typically used between a wall and the ceiling. This should
be glued and tacked to both the top and the main frame. Not
that to make the joint between the front coving and the side
coving, we cut the coving at a 45 degree angle.
We additionally added a small strip of pine (1/4" tick) to the front and sides of the
top in order to hide the plywood's "layer" edging.
Along the base of the unit we added a decorative base that becomes
the feet of the chest. When cutting the front and side pieces to
shape, not that they should be cut with a 45 degree bevel so that
they slot together neatly. First rout the top edge of each of the three
pieces to produce a rounded look to the edging (see diagram). Next,
sketch out the shape that you want for the front and side pieces and
then cut out this shape with a jigsaw. Note that you should leave a
minimum of 1 1/2" of wood at the thinnest part of the edging as this
is the amount of overlap that there is between the edging and the
main unit.
When you have cut the side and front pieces to shape you should attach them to
the main frame. To do this, turn the main chest frame upside down as this allows
you to work more easily. The edging strip should, as mentioned above, overlap the
main frame by 1 1/2". To attach the edging to the main frame, glue and screw from
the inside of the main frame outwards into the edging. Ensure that you attach the
edging level with the main unit.

The main unit is now complete. All that is left is to sand it down thoroughly and
then add the drawer runners (see later).
Take the two side pieces, the back and the inner front piece. Cut a groove in each
one that is 1/4" from the bottom of each piece and is 1/4" wide. This groove will
allow the base to slot into the drawer frame. Once you have cut the groove, glue
and screw the sides to the back piece, slot the base into the groove and then glue
and crew the inner front board. Make sure that the unit is square. The result is a
box without a lid.
Attach a 16" drawer runner mechanism to each side of the drawer, and to the
corresponding "hole" in the main unit of the chest. Ensure that all drawer
mechanisms are attached at the same height, so that the drawers are
interchangeable in the unit.
Finally, you need to add the front of the drawer to the box unit. However, before
doing this, you need to shape the front of the drawer. The edge of this should be
rounded using the same router bit as you used for the edging around the bottom of
the main unit. Once you have routed all four sides of the drawer front, attach it to
the drawer unit by gluing and screwing from the inside of the drawer outwards.
The front should be attached so that it overhangs the drawer unit by 1/2"
underneath, and 1 1/4" above.
Finally, sand the entire unit thoroughly and then apply the finish of your choice.

Amateur Woodworker: Sharpening Jig
Turning Tool Rest and Grinding Jig

By Larry Gawne
One of the hardest,

and most
frustrating, things
that you have to do
as a woodworker is
sharpen chisels.
This seemingly
simple task soon
becomes one of the
dreaded jobs that you try to avoid for as long as possible. The problem is that
sharpening your chisels properly is difficult, and not sharpening them properly
affects the quality of your work dramatically. The sharpening fixture is a great
time (and money) saver while producing for the beginning turner a perfect cutting
edge every time.
Construction
Tools required: Drill, saw, sander, router
Wood required: Maple (or any other scrap hardwood)
Description Qty depth width length

Tool rest block (1) 4" 4" 7"
Guide block (1) 2 1/2" 3" 3"
Cover plate (1) 3/4" 2 1/2" 3"
Clamp disc (1) 1 3/8" 1 3/8" 1/2"
Vee tool rest (1) 2" 2 1/2" 2 1/2"
Dowel (1) 1" 1" 36"
To make it easier to comprehend, we have split this project into a number of

distinct parts that are assembled together at the end.
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Tool Rest
The tool rest is a simple piece 4" x 4" x 6". The 6" dimension
matches the distance from the base to the center of the grinding
wheel. Start by squaring off one end of the block (the bottom of
the block) and making sure the sides are square and parallel.
Next cut the 20 degree angle in the other end of the block (this
is considered to be the top). The total height of this block should match the height
from the workbench to the center of the grinding wheel (in this case 6").
The next step is to bore a 1 1/16" hole through the block. The center of this hole
should be 1 1/4" from the bottom of the block.
The next step depends on your brand of grinder. In this particular case, the grinder
had a protruding casting at the bottom of the grinding wheel housing. This meant
that the tool rest couldn't be positioned close enough to the grinder. To overcome
this problem, bore two 1 1/2" diameter holes on the back surface of the tool rest,
drilling to a depth of 1 1/2". Then chisel out the wood between these two holes to
make an oblong slot that will go around the casting on the grinder.
The tool rest is now finished and should be sanded down.
Clamp Block
This piece offered some interesting design challenges. As a

result, you will notice that the photo of the unit differs slightly
from the design below. This is because with the clamping knob
on top (as in the original design), the knob sometimes got in the
way and prevented short chisels from sitting flat on the tool
rest.
Drill a 1 1/16" diameter hole through the clamp block. The center of this hole
should be 1 1/4" from the bottom of the block (as with the tool rest above) and 1
1/2" from the left hand side (in other words, in the center of the block).
Next, drill a 1 1/2" hole perpendicular to the above hole (see diagram). This hole
should be drilled to a depth of 1 1/4" so that it breaks through into the previous
hole that was drilled. This new hole will accommodate the clamping disc, which is
tightened against the main dowel (which runs through the 1 1/16" hole), thus
clamping the block into place.

Clamping Disc
The clamping disc is a 1 3/8" diameter by 1/2" long disc. After cutting this to
shape, roughly rout out a 1" diameter area in the middle of it to a depth of 1/16".
Then, take a thin metal disc and glue it into this routed out area (the knockout tabs
from an electrical box are ideal for this). The reason for doing this is to provide a
solid metal surface that won't yield when the unit is tightened.
Clamp Block Cover Plate
The clamp block cover is a 3/4" x 2 1/2" x 3" piece of hardwood or plywood. Drill
a hole to receive the 1/4" - 20 "T" nut for the clamp screw to work in. It is best to
spot face a area so the "T" nut is flush with the surface. When this is done, it is
time to assemble the clamping block.
To do this, screw a pan head screw into the "T", dropping the clamping disc into
the hole (metal insert up) and then attach the cover plate to the base block with
screws.
Vee Block Tool Rest
This piece presented some challenges on how to make it. The

best approach is to start with a larger piece of 4 x 4 stock left
over from the tool rest and then cut it to the final dimensions at
the end.
To cut the Vee pocket make up a router jig by making a internal 90 degree corner
in a piece of 1/4" plywood. Each leg of the 90 degree corner should be about 8"
long. Clamp this jig to the stock at a 45 degree angle and rout down the Vee
pocket to a depth of 1". Next, cut the block to its final dimension of 2 1/2" x 2" x
1/2".
Drill a 1/2" diameter hole to receive the narrow end of the dowel. This is drilled
1/2" up and on the center of the Vee (see diagram).
Finally, cut the 45 degree corners off the back of the block and then sand the back
radius for appearance.
Dowel Rod Guide
The first step is to narrow down the last 1 1/4" of the dowel to a 1/2" radius. The

easiest way to do this is with a lathe, but you can get adequate results by using a
knife to whittle it down, then sanding to a smooth shape. Once you have done this,
cut off the end 1/4" so that you have a 1/2" diameter tenon that is 1" long.
The dowel has one flat side which is the result of shaving off 1/8" of the dowel.
This can either be done on a table saw or by using a planer (be it a machine or by
hand).
Once this is done, glue the dowel into the Vee block, ensuring that the flat on the
dowel is perpendicular to the flat Vee pocket (the side of the Vee that your handle
is on).
Putting it all together
Final assembly consists of mounting the tool rest and clamp block assembly to the
plywood base for the grinder. Special attention should be given to assure that the
centerline of the dowel is aligned with the center of the grinding wheel and
perpendicular to the axis of the grinding wheel. Both these pieces were attached
with wood screws from underneath the plywood base plate. Finally, mount your
grinder and you are in business.

Detailed Plans
http://www.am-wood.com/june98/chiseljig1.html [11/3/2003 1:48:05 à«]

Detailed Plans
http://www.am-wood.com/june98/chiseljig3.html [11/3/2003 1:48:26 à«]

Amateur Woodworker: Kitchen Garbage Can
Kitchen Garbage Can

Kitchen garbage containers are usually very ugly and the
best approach is usually to buy a small plastic container that
will fit under the sink. However, after pondering this
problem for a while, I came to the conclusion that there was
absolutely no reason why garbage cans cannot be made out
of wood. The result was this wooden garbage can. Having
completed the project, I then passed it over to my wife who
painted and varnished it. Although the project looks
complex, it can easily be completed in one weekend and
involves no special skills or joints.
Construction
Tools Required: Jigsaw, Sander, Router (optional as it is only needed for the lid),
Circular saw (optional, but useful for cutting the straight lines)
Wood Required:
Description Qty Width Length Thickness

Sides (plywood) 2 11 3/4" (298 mm) 30 (762 mm) 1/2" (13 mm)
Front/Back (plywood) 2 13 3/4" (349 mm) 30 (762 mm) 1/2" (13 mm)
Base (plywood) 1 9" (235 mm) 8" (267 mm) 1/2" (13 mm)
Side edging 4 2 1/2" (64 mm) 28 1/4" (718 mm) 1/2" (13 mm)
Front/Back edging 4 3" (76 mm) 28 1/4" 718 mm) 1/2" (13 mm)
Side base edging 2 3 1/2" (89 mm) 5" (127 mm) 1/2" (13 mm)
Front/back base edging 2 3 1/2" (89 mm) 6" (152 mm) 1/2" (13 mm)
Lid sides 2 4" (102 mm) 12 1/2" (318 mm) 1/2" (13 mm)
Lid front/back 2 4" (102 mm) 14 3/4" (375 mm) 1/2" (13 mm)
Lid top (sides) 2 1 1/2" (38 mm) 12 3/4" (324 mm) 3/4" (19 mm)
Lid top (front/back) 2 1 1/2" (38 mm) 14" (356 mm) 3/4" (19 mm)
Lid 1 11 1/4" (286 mm) 12 1/4" (311 mm) 3/4" (19 mm)
http://www.am-wood.com/may98/garbage.html (1 of 4) [11/3/2003 1:49:13 à«]

Note: The plywood used is birch ply (i.e., the top level of the plywood is a birch
veneer). When wood type is not mentioned use Pine.
First, cut the side and front/back plywood to shape. As you can see
from the photographs, the garbage can is tapered towards the base
and it is necessary to cut the side and front/back pieces of plywood
to this shape.
The side pieces should be 30" (762 mm) high, 11 3/4" (298 mm)
wide at the top and 8 3/4" (222 mm) wide at the base (therefore, in
1 1/2" (38 mm) from each side so that the taper matches on both
sides).
The front/back pieces should be 30" (762 mm) high, 13 3/4" (349 mm) wide at the
top and 11" (279 mm) wide at the base (therefore, in 1 7/8" (48 mm) from each
side so that the taper matches on both sides).
Note that the front/back of the garbage can is slightly wider than the sides. You
can alternatively make the unit square, but the approach used here allows the
garbage can to be placed in narrower spaces (a typical problem in a kitchen).
Once you have cut the front/back and side pieces to shape. Glue and nail them
together, ensuring that the joint between them is square. The result should be the
basic shape of the garbage can. The side pieces should overlap the front/back
pieces.
The add the base piece. To do this, cut it to the correct size of 9" x 8" (229 mm x
203 mm) with an angled edge (15 degrees). This involves using a circular saw that
can cut miters. However, the alternative approach is to simply cut the piece
normally (same dimensions). While the result won't be quite as neat, no one will
be able to see it. The base piece should be dropped into the unit from the top and
should wedge in position 3/4" above the base of the garbage can.
Now we need to work on the edging pieces. In this

particular version of the project, I adopted a distinctive
angular approach as I wanted a south western feel to the
project (hence the distinctive coloring on the finished
project). An alternative suggestion is to use flowing
curves instead. Sketch out the rough curve on one of the
front/back pieces and then cut out using a jigsaw. Note
that the front/back edging pieces are 1/2" (13 mm) wider
than the side edging pieces. This is because the
front/back pieces overlap the ends of the side pieces (see diagram). Remember that

the sides of the garbage can are at an angle (approximately 15 degrees) and the top
and bottom of the edging strips must be cut to this angle.
Once you have cut out the shape on one of the edging strips, use this as a template
for all of the others so that you can ensure a uniform look and feel to the project.
When marking out the side edging strips, remember that they need to be 1/2" (13
mm) narrower.
Once you have cut out all eight edging strips, glue and nail (using small panel
pins) the edging strips to the main plywood unit. Remember that the front/back
edging pieces should overlap the side pieces. Then add in the base edging pieces
(again, cutting the pattern into them first).
The lid unit construction
The lid construction is designed to pull off, allowing a plastic bin liner to be placed
in the main unit. When the lid unit is put back on it stops the bin liner from
slipping.
To construct the lid unit, firstly cut the side and

front/back pieces to the correct lengths. As before, the
front/back pieces will overlap the ends of the side
pieces. Once cut to the correct length, cut the pieces to
the desired shape. Note that for the first 3" (76 mm) in from either side, the lid unit
will overhang the side edging pieces of the main unit. Because of this, the first 3"
should be cut to a depth of 2 3/4" (70 mm) and left straight (i.e. no pattern), as
shown in the diagram. Note that the lid unit is not angled, but instead sits
vertically. If you angle the lid construction, you will not be able to slide it on or off
the main unit. Because of this, when the lid construction is sitting on the main unit,
the lower part of the lid unit overhangs the base unit. This adds to the design,
giving it another dimension.
Once you have cut all four pieces, glue and nail them together, ensuring that the
construction is square. You can then attach the front/back and side lid top pieces.
Note that these are cut to a 45 degree angle so that they butt up against each other
neatly (again, see diagram).
Once this is done, you just need to make the actual lid itself. This is an optional
construction as some people prefer not to have a lid on the garbage can. The lid is
made from a piece of 3/4" (19 mm) thick pine that is 11 1/4" x 12 1/4" (286 mm x
311 mm). Using a router, cut a lip that is 1/4" (6 mm) deep and 3/4" (19 mm) wide
all around the underside of the lid. this will allow the lid to rest on top of the lid

unit without slipping. Once this is done, round off the edge of the lid, using either
a router of by sanding. Finally, add a drawer knob to the center of the lid.
Sand the construction thoroughly. In addition, use a nail punch (or an old nail) to
hammer the nails in a little more, so that they are below the surface of the wood.
Use wood filler to fill the small hole above the nail. Paint and varnish the unit as
desired.

Additional Photos
http://www.am-wood.com/may98/garbage2.html [11/3/2003 1:49:24 à«]

Additional Diagram
http://www.am-wood.com/may98/garbage3.html [11/3/2003 1:49:30 à«]

Amateur Woodworker: Breakfast Bar
Breakfast Bar
By Keith Antolik
Breakfast bars and side

shelves are usually rather
bland and basic; essentially
they are little more than a
plank of wood. However, Keith Antolik saw the opportunity to build a far more
interesting project that looks far nicer than a typical bar shelf. The project was
built out of white oak and all of the dimensions can be easily changed to fit your
specific needs.
Construction
Tools required: Router, sander, belt sander
Wood list: (white oak)

Top 4 1 1/16" (27 mm) 4" (102 mm) 72" (1829 mm)
1 1/2" (38 71 1/2" (1816
Top Decorative molding 1 1 1/16" (27 mm)
mm) mm)
3 1/2" (89
Side of Skirt 2 3/4" (19 mm) 6 3/8" (162 mm)
mm)
3 1/2" (89 11 1/2" (292
Side of skirt 2 2 3/4" (19 mm)
mm) mm)
3 1/2" (89 52 3/4" (1340
Front of skirt 1 3/4" (19 mm)
mm) mm)
Drawer fronts 3 3/4" (19 mm) 2" (51 mm) 12" (305 mm)
67 1/2" (1715
Back of Skirt 1 3/4" (19 mm) 2" (51 mm)
mm)
78 3/4" (2000
Mounting blocks 1 3/4" (19 mm) 3/4" (19 mm)
mm)
Bracing (plywood) 1 3/4" (19 mm) 4" (102 mm) 40" (102 mm)
http://www.am-wood.com/may98/shelf.html (1 of 3) [11/3/2003 1:49:54 à«]

The first thing that I had to do was to decide on the

overall length and width of the side shelf. My friend
Dan and I decided on a shelf that was 72" long and 16"
deep. I elected to use 5/4" stock for the top (which is
actually 1 1/16" thick) in order to get both the strength
and the look that I wanted. To get this width, it is
necessary to join several planks together. I chose to
join four boards that were 4 1/8 x 1 x 72" and once
these were joined, I cut it down to the required width of 16". To connect the
boards together, it is best to use dowel joints, or biscuits joints as these will give
additional strength over basic gluing and clamping.
Once you have glued the planks together, cut the 45 degree angle on each end.
Once this is done, give the panel a rough sanding with a belt sander to roughly
smooth off the plank. Once this is done, rout the edges of the panel (not the back
though) to get the edging profile that you desire. It is best to experiment on some
scrap wood before beginning the rout, just to make sure that you are happy with
the depth and profile of the chosen cut.
The skirt
Miter one end of each of the five skirt pieces (the four side skirt pieces and the
front skirt piece) to a 22 1/2 degree angle. Then, set up the stop block to the exact
length of each board and cut the boards to the proper length. Join the skirt pieces
(at a 22 1/2 degree angle) using either a biscuit joiner, or dowel joints. Then, cut
the back piece of the skirt. the main reason for this piece is to aid in the gluing
process of the skirt. I drilled pocket holes on the end of the back piece to join it
and secured this piece to the 3 1/2" x 6 3/8" side of the skirt prior to gluing. The
easiest way to clamp the skirt while it is gluing is using band clamps.
Drawer Fronts
The drawer fronts are relatively basic. Just cut to the correct dimensions and use
the router to add a neat edging. You should always rout the end grain first to
eliminate any possible tear out.
Once you have cut the drawer fronts, rout the top decorative molding to match the
drawers.
Assembly

Cut the 3/4" x 3/4" stock and pre-drill clearance

holes for mounting the top panel. Next mount the
3/4" x 3/4" blocks to the top inside of the skirt with
glue and small nails. Then, drill clearance holes
into the drawer fronts for the hardware (the drawer
knobs) and into the front of the skirt. The holes in
the skirt are to install and tighten up any hardware
that may work loose over time and to possible
change the style of the hardware to match or fit a different need. Attach the top
decorative molding with glue and small nails. Cut the angle braces to the proper
dimensions and attach with glue and nails. Make sure you don't cover the access
holes that you drilled into the front of the skirt.
The project was finished using a golden oak color, followed by three coats of
varnish.

Amateur Woodworker: Magazine Rack
Magazine Rack
Building a magazine rack is a relatively easy
project that you can complete in a weekend. It
doesn't require much wood so you may even be
able to make it out of the odds and ends lying
around in your workshop. Your family will also
be happy with the result as you can now tidy-up
your woodworking magazines that are no doubt
strewn around the house! We used a relative dark
wood for this project, but you can easily use
birch, or something similar, and stain to the desired color.
Construction
Tools required: sander, router
Wood required:

Legs 4 2 1/4" (57 mm) 3/4" (19 mm) 15" (381 mm)
Top supports 2 2" (51 mm) 1/2" (13 mm) 16 1/2" (419 mm)
Center top support 1 1 1/2" (38 mm) 1/2" (13 mm) 19 1/4" (489 mm)
Center bottom support 1 1 1/2" (38 mm) 1/2" (13 mm) 16" (406 mm)
Bottom Supports 2 2" (51 mm) 1/2" (13 mm) 19 1/4" (489 mm)
Side edging 4 3/4" (19 mm) 1/4" (6 mm) 6 1/4" (159 mm)
Sides (plywood) 2 6 3/4" (171 mm) 1/2" (13 mm) 9" (229 mm)
Base (plywood) 1 7" (178 mm) 1/2" (13 mm) 16" (406 mm)
http://www.am-wood.com/apr98/magazine.html (1 of 3) [11/3/2003 1:50:22 à«]

The best place to begin this project is with the four leg
pieces. Take one of the four legs are make the
following routs in it:
1. On the inside (3/4") edge, make a rout that is 1/4"

deep and 1/2" wide that runs from 1/2" from the top of
the leg to 2 1/2" from the top. This rout should be 1/8"
in from each side. This slot will accommodate the top
support that runs along the length of the rack.
2. On the same side as step one, make a rout that is

1/4" deep and 1/2" wide that runs from 4" from the bottom of the leg to 6" from
the bottom. Again, this rout should be 1/8" in from each side and it will
accommodate the bottom support.
3. On the wide inside (2 1/4") face, make a rout that is 1/2" wide, 1/4" deep and
that runs from 4 3/4" from the bottom to 13 3/4" from the bottom. The rout should
be 1/2" in from the outside edge of the leg (i.e. the edge that did not have routs 1
and 2 put into them).
Once you have made all of these routs, square off the rounded corners so that the
sides, bottom and top slot tightly into them. Having done this, sand the leg,
rounding off the edges to give a softer look to the project. Then, repeat the above
steps for the other three legs. Before making the routs, make sure you have marked
out the correct sides so that the inside edges all match up (i.e. face each other so
that the top and bottom supports can be slotted in).
Next we need to make the slots in the bottom supports that will accommodate the
base plywood. Cut a slot on the inside face (2") that is 1/4" deep and 1/2" wide.
This slot should begin 1/2" from the lower edge and should be 16" long (therefore
it should begin 1 5/8" from either end of the piece. Repeat this for the second of
the bottom supports, squaring off the rounded ends of the slot to allow the base to
fit in tightly.
Now construct one side, gluing the bottom and top

supports into two of the legs to build on complete
side. Then construct the second side by repeating this
step. Once the glue is dry, connect these front and
back constructions to the plywood sides and the base,
again gluing them together. You now have the main
shape of the magazine rack completed. Glue the thin side edging pieces to the top
and bottom of the plywood sides, thus hiding the plywood's edging. Now cut the
center top support to the correct shape by cutting out a block from each end, as

shown in the diagram. Once cut to shape, sand the piece to round off the edges and
then glue it on top of the two plywood sides, half way between the front and back.
Finally, sand off the center bottom support and then glue into place on the
plywood base, again half way between the front and back support (and therefore
matching the position of the top center support).
Give the entire unit a thorough sanding and then stain and wax.

Amateur Woodworker: Puzzle Box
Puzzle box
This box is based on an old Japanese style of
concealing the mechanism that allows the box to
open. Rather than just having a simple sliding top,
this box also has a concealed locking mechanism
that must be dealt with in order to open the box. To
open the box, the front strip of cocobolo must be
slid to one side, thus allowing the top to slide out
freely. This particular box was designed for an assortment of random items, but
the theory behind this style can be adopted for a plethora of projects, including
jewelry boxes, money banks and so on. To make the box more interesting, three
types of wood were used: cherry (for the main panels); cocobolo (for the top and
middle strip); birch (for the small corner pieces).
Construction
Tools required: Router, sander, miter saw (not necessary power version), table
saw (optional)
Wood required:

11 3/4" (298
Sides (Cherry) 2 2" (51 mm) 1/2" (13 mm)
mm)
Ends (Cherry) 2 2" (51 mm) 4" (102 mm) 1/2" (13 mm)
Lid (Cherry) 1 3 1/4" (83 mm) 11" (279 mm) 1/4" (6 mm)
Lid End (Cherry) 1 1/2" (13 mm) 4" (102 mm) 1/2" (13 mm)
Base (Cherry) 1 3 1/4" (83 mm) 11" (279 mm) 1/4" (6 mm)
Middle strip sides 11 1/4" (286
2 1/2" (13 mm) 1/2" (13 mm)
(Cocobolo) mm)
Middle strip ends
2 1/2" (13 mm) 3 1/2" (89 mm) 1/2" (13 mm)
(Cocobolo)
Top strip sides 11 3/4" (298
2 9/16" (14 mm) 1/4" (6 mm)
(Cocobolo) mm)
http://www.am-wood.com/apr98/puzzle.html (1 of 5) [11/3/2003 1:50:56 à«]

Top strip ends

2 9/16" (14 mm) 4" (102 mm) 1/4" (6 mm)
(Cocobolo)
Corner pieces
4 1/2" (13 mm) 1/2" (13 mm) 1/2" (13 mm)
(Birch)
Locking
mechanism 1 7/16" (11 mm) 1" (25 mm) 1/8" (3 mm)
(Cherry)
Cut the sides and ends to the correct dimensions. As

a part of this process, miter the ends to a 45 degree
angle, so that when joined together, the four pieces
will form a box. Mitering is used so that no end
wood will be on display in the finished product. This
is important because if the end of, say, one of the sides were to show, the grooves
that hold the base and top in place would be evident.
Once all four pieces have been cut to size, cut a groove on the inside of each piece
to accommodate the base. [Remember, the inside of each piece is the shorter side --
with the mitered edges showing.] This groove should be 1/8" (3 mm) deep, 1/8"
wide, and should be 1/8" in from the bottom of each piece. The easiest way to cut
this groove is to use a circular saw or router. Once you have made this groove on
all four pieces, match it by creating a new groove that is 1/8" (3 mm) from the top
of each piece, except for one of the two end pieces. This second groove will
accommodate the sliding lid. On one of the two end pieces, instead of creating this
second groove, cut off the top of the end so that the end piece is now only 1 3/4"
(44 mm) high -- the same height as the distance to the beginning of the groove
from the bottom. Removing this 1/4" (6 mm) of the end block provides a way for
the top to slide in and out.
Take this shortened end piece (from now on referred

to as the "locking end") and rout out a space for the
locking mechanism on the inside (shorter) of it. See
the diagram for the exact dimensions of this routed
area. The routed area should be cut to a depth of 1/4"
(6 mm), leaving a remaining 1/4" (6 mm) of wood.
Next, take the base and rout a lip all the way around
it. The area to be routed out should be 1/8" (3 mm)
deep and should cut up to 1/8" in from the edge. The
result should be a lip that slots into the groove
running around the bottom of the sides and end
pieces. Having routed the lip all the way around the base, repeat this for the lid as

well. This lip around the lid will allow it to slide in and out of the box. At this
point, glue the sides and end pieces together around the base piece, remembering
to place a small amount of glue in the groove, thus gluing the base into place.
Clamp overnight until dry, having first ensured that the box is square.
While the main box is drying, rout out a groove

down the underside of the lid. The purpose of this
groove is to allow the lid to slide over the locking
mechanism (once the box is unlocked). To determine
where this groove should be, elect one end of the lid
to be the lock end. Looking at the underside of the
lid, with the lock end furthest away from you, the
groove should be 1/2" wide, 1 1/2" from the left side
(and 1 1/4" from the right side). This groove should
be 3/16" deep. Once you have cut this groove, cut out an additional niche to the
left of the main groove (the same depth). The niche accommodates the locking
mechanism when the box is locked. This additional niche should be 1/2" wide and
should cut in 1/8" from the lock end (see diagram).
The lock end of the lid needs an additional piece of

wood to be added to it so that it matches the other
sides. This "lid end" should be 1/2" (13 mm) wide,
1/2" thick and 4" (102 mm) long. The ends of this
length should be cut at a 45 degree angle, so that
(when attached to the lid) the lid end fits into the box
neatly (see diagram). Once the lid end has been cut
to size, rout out a lip on the underside that is 1/8" (3 mm) deep and 1/8" wide. This
allows the lid end to match up with the lock end of the lid. In addition to this lip,
rout out an additional niche to accommodate the locking mechanism. This
additional niche should be 1" from the left (when looking at the underside of the
lid end -- and the measurement is based on the narrower length) to 1 1/4" from the
right and should cut 1/4" from the inside edge.
Once the main box is dry, it is time to rout out the

groove for the decorative strip that runs around its
middle. This groove is cut using a 14 degree,
dovetail router bit. The use of a dovetail bit means
that the groove has a cross profile of a wedge, and
thus holds the cocobolo strip in place. This is
important because the lock end cocobolo strip is not
glued in place, as it must be free to slide (without
falling out!). Cut the groove at a height of 7/8" to 1
1/4" from the bottom of the box, to a depth of 1/4".

The end result should be a groove that is 3/8" wide at the surface (but considerable
wider -- 1/2" -- further into the depth of the side). Rout this groove on all four
sides of the box.
Once this groove has been routed out, it is time to neaten up each corner of the
groove. Using a chisel, increase the size of each groove end to a height of 1/2" (13
mm) (basically, the same width as the groove is at its deepest. This widening
should only be done for 1/2" in from each corner. This means that the square birch
corner pieces should just fit into each of the widened corners.
Now cut the two side strips of cocobolo to the correct cross profile. These should
be wedge-shaped (see diagram) so that they will slot into the grooves made above.
At this time, also cut the two end strips to the same profile. If you have a table
saw, this is certainly the easiest way to cut these strips, although you can also
plane them down to the correct profile (or even rout them). Test that the strips will
slide into the middle grooves. While they should be a reasonably tight fit, don't
make these strips too tight a fit -- otherwise the end piece won't slide freely.
Before you glue the strips into place, sand down the main box, and round off the
corners a little. Then, glue the two side strip pieces and the non-locking end strip
piece into the correct grooves. At the same time, glue three of the corner pieces
into place. The one corner piece that should not be glued into place is the one at
the right hand end of the locking groove (when facing this end).
Slide the final (locking end) strip into place and glue the final corner piece onto
this strip. Be very careful to make sure that the glue only makes contact with the
corner piece and locking end strip, as this piece must be able to slide out freely.
Leave to dry overnight.
Once dry, remove the locking end strip (with the attached corner piece) and apply
wax to the groove. This will help the strip to slide more easily. Then, replace the
strip back into the groove and ensure that it is pushed in all the way.
Glue and screw the locking mechanism to the inside edge of the sliding cocobolo
by placing the locking mechanism wood in the space that you routed out for it in
the locking end piece. The locking mechanism should be attached at a distance of
1 1/2" from the left hand side (when looking at this from the front, not the inside)
and should stick up proud of the locking end by a height of 1/8" (3 mm). Double
check that your particular version of this box agrees with this position -- it should
position the locking piece in the niche cut in the lid, NOT the main groove cut in
the lid. When applying the glue, take care to ensure that it only makes contact with
the cocobolo and the locking mechanism (otherwise, the sliding piece may be
glued fast to the box by mistake).

Once this is dry, test out the mechanism. The box should be locked when the
locking end middle strip is pushed in all the way, and should be unlocked (so that
you can slide the lid out) when this strip is pushed to the right (i.e. juts out from
the side).
Adding the final touches
To all intents and purposes, the box is now complete.

However, if you wish you can add the top strips. The
advantage of adding these is that they help to
camouflage the joint between the sliding lid and the
main box as the strips overhang slightly. These strips
have a triangular profile of 1/4" (6 mm) at the widest
down to a point (see diagram). These strips should be attached to the box with the
narrow, pointed side pointing out, and the thicker side nearer the middle. Cut these
pieces to the correct length using a 45 degree cut to allow for a neat joint at each
corner. When gluing these strips into place, it is advisable to remove the lid, thus
ensuring that the strips cannot accidentally be glued to the lid, thus sealing the box
shut.
Once everything is dry, sand down the box using various grades of sandpaper
(down to the finest). Round of the sharp corners of the birch corner pieces. Then
wax the box, taking care to wax the lip running around the lid, as this will help the
lid to slide in and out more smoothly.

Puzzle box
The Box closed
The locking mechanism
Click here to return to main project
http://www.am-wood.com/apr98/puzzle2.html [11/3/2003 1:51:04 à«]

Amateur Woodworker: Router Table
Router Table
A router table is an invaluable tool. The
problem, however, is that ready-built router
tables are usually relatively expensive and too
narrow for many projects. This router table
provides a workable area of 15" (381 mm)
which will allow you far more flexibility than
a shop-bought model. Further, the back
support can be removed from the table to
allow for free-form routing, if so desired.
Construction
Tools required: Router, jigsaw, sander, drill
Wood required:

Corner posts 11 1/2" (292
6 1 1/2" (38 mm) 1 1/8" (28.5 mm)
(Pine) mm)
Side pieces 11 1/2" (292 19 3/4" (501
4 1/2" (13 mm)
(plywood) mm) mm)
Front corner
2 1 1/2" (38 mm) 3/4" (19 mm) 4 1/2" (114 mm)
supports (pine)
Switch panel 11 1/2" (292
1 4 1/2" (114 mm) 3/4" (19 mm)
(pine) mm)
Drawer runners
4 1/2" (13 mm) 1/2" (13 mm) 18" (457 mm)
(pine)
Outer panel
2 1 1/2" (38 mm) 3/4" (19 mm) 18" (457 mm)
support
Back spacers 4 1 1/2" (38 mm) 3/4" (19 mm) 4 3/4" (121 mm)
Center Supports 5 1" (25 mm) 1 1/2" (38 mm) 11" (279 mm)
Top 2 24" (610 mm) 1/2" (13 mm) 24" (610 mm)
http://www.am-wood.com/march98/router.html (1 of 7) [11/3/2003 1:51:51 à«]

24 3/8" (619
Edging trim 4 1 1/4" (32 mm) 5/16" (8 mm)
mm)
16 1/2" (419
Drawers (base) 2 4 1/2" (114 mm) 3/4" (19 mm)
mm)
Drawers (front) 2 4 1/2" (114 mm) 1/2" (13 mm) 4 1/4" (108 mm)
Formica 1 24" (610 mm) n/a 24" (610 mm)
Take the six corner posts and rout a 1/2" (13 mm) groove along the length each
one to a depth of 1/2" (13 mm). This groove will be used to slot in the side panels
of plywood. The groove should begin 3/8" (9.5 mm) from the outside edge of each
corner piece (and 1/4" (6 mm) from the inside).
Take two of these corner pieces and place them side-

by-side with the groove nearest the outside edge (ie
furthest away from the other groove). Take the two
front corner supports and place one at the top and one
at the bottom of these corner posts, forming a square.
Glue and screw the corner posts to these support pieces
(see diagram). The resulting construction is the front of
the left hand unit (ie the one that will have drawers in it).
Next, take two more corner posts and attach them to the switch panel thus forming
a solid version of the above unit. At this time, cut a hole in the switch panel to
accommodate the electrical switch that you have elected to use. You have now
created the two front panels.
Cut all four plywood side panels to size. Two of these

panels will be outer panels (ie physically located on
the outside of the construction) while the other two are
inner panels (see diagram). Take one outer and one
inner panel and attach the drawer runners. These
should be located at 1 1/4" to 1 3/4" (32 mm - 44 mm) and 2 1/2" to 3" (63mm - 76
mm) from the bottom of the panel, thus leaving a 3/4" (19 mm) gap between them
(for the lower drawer) and 6" to 6 1/2" (152 mm - 165 mm) and 7 1/2" to 7 3/4"
(190 mm - 197 mm) from the top. The drawers will slot into the 3/4" (19 mm) gap
between the runners.
Take the two outer panels and attach the outer panel support to the inside of each
one, so that it is flush with the top of the panel. This panel support should run from
1" (25 mm) from the back to 3/4" (19 mm) from the front. The reason for this
support is to provide a wider, more solid plank of wood that the top of the router

table can be attached to.
Take the two side pieces that you put drawer runners on. Attach the outer panel to
the outer groove of the front left hand unit and the inner panel to the inside of the
two grooves. To attach these, glue and nail from the side. Take one of the two
remaining corner posts and glue/nail it to the back of the outer panel. Then, attach
the top and bottom back spacers between this back corner post and the inner panel.
The result should be a complete box (two sides and a front frame) that is the left
hand unit. Repeat this exercise for the right hand unit.
To complete the base construction, it is necessary to join these two side units
together with spacers. This is done by connecting both sides to a number of center
support pieces (three for the base and three for the top). The top three should be
connected (by screwing through from the side unit) at 2 1/2" to 3 1/2" (63 mm - 89
mm), 12" to 13" (305 mm - 330 mm) and 19" to 20" (483 mm - 508 mm) from the
front of the unit. These should be aligned flush with the top of the side panels so
that the top will rest on top of them. This is important as it will help stop the top
from warping over time.
The bottom two supports should be attached at 1 1/2" to 2 1/2" (38 mm - 64 mm) --
ie just behind the corner posts -- and 19 1/2" to 20 1/2" (495 mm - 521 mm) from
the front and should be flush with the base.
The result is one large box frame. Then, add the back panel to increase the strength
of the frame. However, before you do this, cut out a square hole in the back panel
that is 7" (178 mm) from each side, 3" (76 mm) from the base of the piece and 3"
from the top of the piece (in other words, a square that is 9 3/4" x 5 1/2" (248 mm
x 140 mm)). The purpose of this hole is to allow easy access (from the back of the
table) to the router so that you can change the router bit.
Now it is time to build the top of the unit. Take the two pieces of 1/2" (13 mm)
plywood (cut to 24" x 24" (610 mm square)) and attach them onto the frame made
above. This should provide you with a top that is 1" (25 mm) thick. To attach this
double thickness top to the base, use a combination of glue and screws. Make sure
that the head of these screws is not above the level of the top Ñ they should (at
least) be flush, if not slightly sunken in. Further. Do NOT use any screws in the
area that will accommodate the router base. This sounds rather obvious but it is the
most common mistake to make and is the cause of many a ruined router bit later in
this project. To calculate where the router base will be, see below "Routing the
base hole".
Once the top is secure (and the glue is dry) clean up the edges -- using a sander Ñ
to ensure that they are smooth. Then, glue the formica onto the top (using special

glue). This then needs to be left for approximately three days to ensure that it
bonds correctly. Make sure that the formica sheet is slightly larger than the top
plywood, so that it can overhang all four sides. By doing this, it is easier to align
the formica to the top. Once it is glued securely you can use the router to trim the
edges to make them flush.
Routing the base hole
It is now time to cut the hole for the router base.

Obviously, the size of this hole depends upon the size
of the plexi-glass router base you purchased. The sizes
described below are based on the standard size of 11
3/4" x 11 3/4" x 3/8" (298 mm x 298 mm x 9 mm) that
should be available from your local woodworking store.
First, mark out the full size of the area to be routed (ie 11 3/4" x 11 3/4" Ñ the
same as the plexi-glass). The hole should be 6 1/8" (156 mm) from each side, and
1" (25 mm) from the front of the table. Then, rout out this area to a depth of 3/8"
(9 mm). Take your time doing this, and take very shallow cuts initially so as not to
splinter the formica. It is very important that you are accurate when routing out
this area as you want to have a tight fit with the plexi-glass. To this end, clamp
down straight pieces of wood as guides to ensure that the router cannot cut more
than you want. When routing out this area you do not need to rout all of the
square. Instead, rout out to a width of 3" (76 mm), leaving the middle of the square
intact. By leaving this area intact you give the router an even, flat surface upon
which to rest while routing out the remaining area.
Once you have routed out this area, mark out a smaller square that is 6 3/4" x 6
3/4" (171 mm x 171 mm) in the middle of the routed area, and cut this inner
square out, using a jigsaw. This smaller hole allows the router to press up against
the plexi-glass. Then, ensure that the plexi-glass fits tightly in the routed hole and
that it is flush with the surface. Minor adjustments may be necessary to ensure that
this is so.
Once the plexi-glass fits neatly, cut out the hole for the router bit and three screw
holes in this plexi-glass. To cut these to the correct dimensions, remove the plastic
base from your router and use it as a template. Do not throw this plastic base away
as you will need to reattach it if you ever remove the router from the table.
However, to attach the router to the plexi-glass, you should not reattach the plastic
base as the new plexi-glass sheet becomes the router's new base.
Once these holes have been cut, make additional drill holes in each corner of the
plexi-glass so that this sheet can be screwed into the router table.

Routing the measuring and back rest slots
Once the plexi-glass is complete, it is time to cut the slots that will accommodate
the back rest bolts. These bolts run along two long slots (from front to back) so
that the back rest can be easily moved to the correct distance away from the router.
Cut two slots Ñ one on each side Ñ that run all the way from the back of the table
to within 7 1/2" (190 mm) of the front. These cuts should be 1/2" (13 mm) wide,
and 3 1/2" (89 mm) from the side, running parallel with the side. As before, take
your time and only cut a small amount each time. The depth of the cut (once
finished) should be the same as the depth of the top (ie just over 1" in depth) so
that the bolts can go all the way through.
Once this has been done, glue thin strips of formica to each side of the underneath
of this slot. This will reduce the friction when sliding the bolt along the slot, thus
allowing for easier movement of the back rest.
Once both slots have been cut (one on each side) it is time to cut the measuring
slot. The purpose of this slot is to accommodate a thin metal ruler. These rules can
be bought from any good tool shop and come as a roll. The rule is made of thin
metal, with a self adhesive attached to the underside. While you could just glue
this directly onto the formica, this would result in a slightly raised surface and
would catch on any wood that you rout. To resolve this problem, cut a slot that is
1/32" (1 mm) deep and 1/2" (19 mm) wide (the width of the rule), parallel to the
bolt slot. Again, this should run all the way from the back towards the front, with
the front end stopping at 6 3/8" (162 mm) from the front of the table. [[NOTE: this
front distance may vary from table to table. The point is that the tape should run up
until it is flush with the front of the router bit]]. Stick the rule into this thin slot
(using the self-adhesive backing), ensuring that 0" on the rule is at the front end of
the slot.
Once all of the slots have been cut, attach the trim to each edge of the top. Adding
the trim makes the top look deeper than it actually as, as well as improving the
look of the table.
Building the back rest

The back rest is made of cherry, a relatively

hard wood. You should pick a wood that is
resistant to warping. Essentially, the back rest
consists of two main pieces, the base and the
front. Both pieces should be 24" long.
Take the base piece and cut a chunk out of it that is 1 1/2" (38 mm) wide and cuts
back 1" (25 mm). This chunk should begin 11 1/4" (286 mm) from each side. By
removing this small square of wood, the back rest will be able to overlap the router
bit, allowing for very fine cuts to be made.
Next, take the front piece and cut out a chunk that is 1 1/2" (38 mm) high and 1
1/2" (38 mm) wide. Again, this should be 11 1/4" from each side (in other words,
matching the base piece). Then, cut out four support pieces, triangular in shape,
that are 1 3/4" (44 mm) wide and 2" (51 mm) long, with a 90 degree angle
between.
Now all of the components are set, put every thing together. Glue and screw the
from piece onto the edge of the back piece, and glue and nail the triangular
supports between the two to strengthen the join (see diagram). The triangular
pieces should be placed 1 1/2" (38 mm) and 9 1/2" (241 mm) from each side. Note
that if you want to add a dust extractor to this router table, then the dust pipe will
attach between the inner two support pieces and this should be borne in mind when
deciding on the exact position of them.
Finally, cut two holes, 1/2" (19 mm) diameter, through the base piece. Each hole
should be 1" (25 mm) from the back of the base piece and 3 3/4" (95 mm) in from
each side (matching the slots cut in the table). These holes accommodate the two
bolts that fasten the back rest to the table. Attach these bolts by pushing them up
from the underside of the router table and then through the back rest holes. Use
wing nuts to secure the bolts as this allows you to easily tighten or loosen the bolts
as desired.
Building the drawers is the easiest part of the whole

project as they are not conventional drawers at all.
These drawers are used to store the router bits and so
do not need a back or sides. Instead, each drawer
consist of a front and a base. Drill 1/2" (19 mm) deep
holes in the base to accommodate the router bits and then glue and screw the front
panel onto the end of the base.

Finally, attach a drawer knob to the front of each drawer.
Connecting the electrical components
As mentioned before, the router table has a switch on the front right side. This
connects between the external power source (ie the house power) and the socket
into which the router is plugged in. This socket should be attach to the inner wall
on the right hand side (as opposed to the outer wall). Consult an electrical manual
for details of how to connect up the wiring.
Warning: be very careful when wiring up the router table. Failure to adhere to
local standards for wire type can potentially lead to a fire hazard or possible
electrocution. It is therefore imperative that you consult with a manual or, if in
doubt, consult an electrician.

Router Table
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Router Table
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Amateur Woodworker: Knife Block
Kitchen Knife Block

A knife block is a simple project that takes very little
time to make. Furthermore, by making this yourself,
rather than using a shop bought version, you are safe
in the knowledge that all of your knives will fit into
it...at least you will be if you built the block with this
in mind! The knife block is made out of Red Oak, a
hardy wood that will withstand the rigors of the
kitchen fairly well. It is not recommended that you
use a soft wood such as pine as this will wear badly
around the knife slots.
Construction
Tools required: Sander, router, band sander (optional, but helps with the sanding)
Wood required: (Red Oak)

Main block* 1 3/4" (19 mm) 5 1/4" (133 mm) 55" (1397 mm)
Main block end 1 1/2" (13 mm) 5 1/4" (133 mm) 12" (305 mm)
Support block** 1 3/4" (19 mm) 3 5/8" (92 mm) 18" (457 mm)
Support block
1 1/2" (13 mm) 3 5/8" (92 mm) 5 3/4" (146 mm)
end
* This piece of wood will be cut into five equally sized pieces
** This piece of wood will be cut into four equally sized pieces
Cut the Main Block plank into five

pieces, as shown in the diagram
(left). There should be very little
waste wood left due to the fact that
you can overhang (i.e., angled end
against angled end) the pieces. Also
use this template to cut out the Main Block End, which is exactly the same size as
the Main Block pieces, but thinner.
http://www.am-wood.com/feb98/knife.html (1 of 3) [11/3/2003 1:52:49 à«]

Each of the Main Block pieces should have two grooves cut into it, as shown in
the template. These grooves are 1/4" (6 mm) deep. The larger groove is 1 3/4" (45
mm) wide and the smaller one is 1 1/8" (29 mm) wide. However, the dimensions
that you elect to use will depend upon the size of the knives that you wish to store
in the block. Even though you may have a random assortment of sizes, try to group
them into two rough sizes. This way you can cut out two rows of knife slots that
are of regular sizes. If you try to tailor each slot for a particular knife, then putting
a number of knives away at a time will quickly turn into a frustrating game as you
try and match each slot to the correct knife.
Once you have decided on the two widths -- in this case 1 3/4" (45 mm) and 1 1/8"
(29 mm) -- cut out the slots on each Main Block piece. Note that the distance
between the slot and the edge of the block should be the same for both sides (see
diagram above). Do not cut slots in the Main Block End piece.
Once you have cut all the slots, glue the five Main Block pieces together. At the
same time, glue the Main Block End piece to the end of the knife block that has
open slots showing, thus balancing the block's shape. Clamp and glue overnight.
The Supporting Block
While the main block is gluing cut out the

Support Block pieces. Note that there are two
templates for the Support Blocks and that two
pieces cut to each template are needed (the
dotted line in the template shows the cut for
the second, flanged, template number two).
Once these four pieces have been cut, also cut
out the Support Block End piece. This should
be cut out in accordance with the smaller template (Support Block One). Note the
flow of the grain when cutting out these blocks. This is very important as we want
to be able to match the flow of the grain on the main block. The reason why two of
the blocks have an extra flange of wood is because these flanges are going to slot
into the main block, making a finger joint and thus forming a far more solid
construction than would be formed by simply gluing the two blocks together.
Once all five blocks have be cut to shape, make the groove in the four 3/4" (19
mm) thick pieces (not the End Block). As with the main block, the size of these
slots is an individual choice. However, as before, it is far neater -- and more
practical -- if all the slots are the same size. Note too that these slots cannot
accommodate large knives as the slots are not very long and this fact should be
borne in mind when cutting the slots. This particular knife block has slots that are

5/8" (16 mm) wide and 1/4" (6 mm) deep.
Once you have cut all the slots, glue the four Support Block pieces together. At the
same time, glue the Support Block End piece to the end of the knife block that has
open slots showing, thus balancing the block. Clamp and glue overnight. The
resulting combination of templates one and two should produce a support block
that has two flanges sticking out -- in positions two and four -- that will form a
tight bond with the main block.
Joining the Two Blocks Together
The Support Block is 3/4" thinner than the main block. This is so that the smaller
block appears less blocky than if it matched the width of the main block. Position
the supporting block so that it is indented 3/8" (9 mm) from each side of the Main
Block. Mark the places where the Support Block flanges (fingers) meet the Main
Block. These should be at 1 1/8" to 1 7/8" (29 mm to 48 mm) and 2 5/8" to 3 3/8"
(67 mm to 86 mm) from the side of the main block, approximately.
Once you have marked these slots, and doubled-checked to ensure their accuracy
for your particular Support Block, rout out these two grooves to a width of 1/2"
(12 mm) -- ie a depth equal to the width of the two flanges -- and a depth of 3/8"
(9 mm). Once you have done this, glue and clamp the knife block together and
leave to dry overnight.
Finally, sand the entire knife block, taking care to round off all of the corners. I
personally prefer a more rounded look, so I spent quite a bit of time doing this and
used a band sander for the initial rough shaping. The more traditional look is to
leave the corners almost intact, with a more subtle rounding-off.
Once sanded to your satisfaction, wax or oil. Oiling is preferable as the oil will
soak in, giving a more protective finish. Finally, add four small rubber "feet" to the
bottom of the knife block. Although this is not totally necessary, it is advisable as
it will avoid the risk of the knife block sitting in a pool of water and subsequently
swelling. These rubber feet are available at most home improvement stores for a
few pennies. Alternatively, make your own feet out of 1/4" (6 mm) thick rubber
and glue them on.

Kitchen Knife Block
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Amateur Woodworker: Chisel Cabinet
Chisel Cabinet
Chisels are one of the most valuable groups of tools you
can own, and should be treated with care if you want them
to last well. With this in mind, we offer this chisel cabinet
as an ideal storage solution. The cabinet is designed to store
both normal chisels and carving chisels. In addition, the
plan can very easily be adapted to become a multi-purpose
tool cabinet (more on this later).
Construction
Tools required: Drill, miter saw, jigsaw

35 1/4" (895
Sides 2 3/4" (19 mm) 3" (76 mm)
mm)
23 1/2" (597
Top and bottom 2 3/4" (19 mm) 3" (76 mm)
mm)
Back panel 22 1/2" (572 34 1/4" (870
1 3/16" (5 mm)
(plywood) mm) mm)
Chisel racks 3 3/4" (19 mm) 2 1/2" (64 mm) 22" (559 mm)
Wall supports 2 3/4" (19 mm) 3" (76 mm) 3" (76 mm)
35 1/4" (895
Door frame sides 4 3/4" (19 mm) 1 1/2" (38 mm)
mm)
Door frame 23 1/2" (597
4 3/4" (19 mm) 1 1/2" (38 mm)
top/bottom mm)
Door panels 32 3/4" (832
2 3/16" (5 mm) 9 1/4" (235 mm)
(plywood) mm)
http://www.am-wood.com/feb98/chisel.html (1 of 4) [11/3/2003 1:53:28 à«]

First, take the two sides, the bottom and top and cut to
the correct length. This cut should not be a straight,
vertical cut, but should instead be mitered at an angle
of 45 degrees. By doing this, the point at which the
side meets the top should form a 90 degree angle (see
diagram) while hiding the back panel groove from the
outside (see below).
Once all four pieces have been cut to size, make the
back panel lip in all four pieces. This lip should be 1/4" (6 mm) deep, 3/16" (5
mm) wide and should be flush with the back of each piece. This lip should be cut
on the inside of each piece (ie, the side which is shorter). Once the lips have been
cut, glue and clamp the two sides, the top and the bottom together, remembering to
also glue the back panel into the lip at this time. Ensure that the frame is square
while it is clamped.
While the frame is drying, add in the four wall supports. These are square pieces
of wood that fit against the back of the frame in each corner (in front of the back
panel). By adding these supports you firstly ensure the squareness of the frame and
secondly provide additional strength to the frame. To attach the wall supports, glue
and screw from both adjacent side pieces.
Now that the frame of the cabinet is complete, it is

time to build the chisel racks inside. Firstly, cut the
three chisel racks to the correct length -- the inside
width of the cabinet (22" - 559 mm). Then, decide
upon the order of the chisels, and make each hole for a
particular chisel. The best way to make the holes is to
use a drill to make the initial round hole (in the center), as well as two smaller
holes (one at each end), and then to use either a jigsaw or a chisel to cut out the
excess in between (see diagram). Obviously, carving chisels have to be treated
slightly differently, as the connection between the two small end holes and the
central one will be a curve, not a straight cut, but the same jigsaw/drill
combination works just as well.
Once all the holes have been cut out, attach the chisel racks to the cabinet frame.
These racks should be glued and screwed through both side pieces, as well as a
couple of screws through the back panel to ensure that the rack doesn't sag in the
middle. Evenly space the three racks between the top and the bottom of the frame,
unless one rack stores only small chisels, in which case this rack will require less
space, leaving more for the other two.
Building the doors

Cut the door frame components to size. When cutting

the frame's sides, top and bottom, cut the wood at a 45
degree angle (not mitered -- see diagram) so that the
sides, top and bottom fit together to form a 90 degree
angle. Note that unlike the frame of the cabinet, the
door frame is shallow (being 3/4" deep, and 1 1/2"
wide). However, if you need additional space in the
chisel cabinet (especially if you want to make it a more
multi-purpose cabinet) you should consider replicating the approach used for the
main cabinet frame, as this will allow you to store tools on the inside of the doors
as well.
Once you have cut the frame to size, make a 1/4" (6 mm) deep groove along the
inside edge of the door frame (ie the shorter side) that is 1/4" (6 mm) in from the
back and 3/16" (5 mm) wide. This groove accommodates the door panel. Once all
four frame pieces are ready, glue them together around the door panel. Clamp
overnight, having first confirmed the squareness of the door. Repeat this process
for the second door.
Sand down the doors and the main cabinet. Attach the doors to the main frame by
using two piano hinges that run the entire height of the cabinet. Once the hinges
are attached, it may be necessary to make to last minute adjustments to ensure that
the doors close completely. Plane off any excess wood, but be careful not to take
off too much.
Drill out a hole for the lock in one of the two

doors. Then attach the lock, screwing it into
the back of the door (see diagram). Then add
drop bolts to the top and bottom of the second
door, drilling holes in the top and bottom of
the cabinet to accommodate these bolts.
Note, when choosing which door should have

the bolts, and which should have to lock,
consider the organization of the chisels within the cabinet. Whichever side of the
cabinet has the most commonly used chisels should be the side on which the lock
is placed, as this is the side that will open first.
Sand the entire cabinet and then paint, or varnish to add a layer of protection.
Making the chisel cabinet into a multi-purpose tool

closet
In order to make the chisel cabinet into a multi-purpose tool closet, simply
increase the dimensions of it. In addition, increase the depth of the doors to allow
for the storage of tools on the inside of the doors themselves. In addition to the
type of tool rack described above (also suitable for screwdrivers) it will be
necessary to add hooks of some form or other. The most simplistic solution is to
use nails, and wrap electrical tape around them so that the nails cannot scratch
your tools.

Chisel Cabinet
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Amateur Woodworker: Desk Clock
Desk Clock
Desk or mantle clocks make ideal Christmas
presents, especially for the uncle who already
seems to have everything he could possibly
need. The problem is that the typical clock
design is rather boring, being a rectangular
block of wood with a clock mechanism stuck
on it. Of course, it doesn't have to be that
way. The only basic factors for a desk clock
are that it must tell the time, and that it must
be able to stand on its own base. No one ever
said that it must be square, rectangular or any
other shape! With this in mind, we present
this clock design not as a fait accompli, but rather as a starting point for your own
creativity.
Construction
Tools required: jigsaw, sander, belt sander (or plane)
Wood list:
Description Wood Type Qty Thickness Width Length

Main spurs Birch 4 1 1/2" (38 mm) 3 1/2" (89 mm) 3 1/2" (89 mm)
Wedges Cocobolo 4 1 1/2" (38 mm) 3/4" (19 mm) 1" (25 mm)
Note: this clock is designed to use a 3 1/2" (89 mm) clock face (with a 3" (76 mm)
mechanism). These are readily available via mail order catalogs.
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First, cut each of the spurs to the correct angle, so that

when the spurs are glued together (with a wedge in
between) they form a 90 degree angle (see diagram).
Do not, at this point, cut out the main outline of the
shape, nor the curve for the inner circle. These will be
cut later, once all of the clock components have been
glued together.
Once the spur angles are cut, cut the cocobolo wedges
to the correct shape. These should be cut to an angle of 56 degrees and it is best to
cut this as an even amount either side of the grain flow (ie, an angle of 28 degrees
above and below the flow of the grain).
Glue the wedges and spurs together to form a large X shape. The best way to
clamp this together is to use a belt-type clamp (which is designed to clamp
irregular shapes together). Otherwise, use string tightly bound around the
construction. Be very careful to ensure that the wedges sit in exactly the right
position and that each combination of spur-wedge-spur forms a 90 degree angle.
When the clock construction has dried, cut out the inner
circle to fit the clock mechanism. Try to make this as
tight a fit as possible. Then, draw out the shape of the
spurs as a cutting guide. You can either use the template
provide (see right) or come up with your own design. If
you do elect to use your own creation, sketch out a
quarter of the shape (ie one spur's worth) on paper and
then use this as a template for the entire project. Doing
this will help to form a regular shape, rather than
allowing small inaccuracies to creep into the design. Once the design is to your
satisfaction, use the jigsaw (or bandsaw) to cut out the spur shape.
The next task is to angle back each of the spurs. This is

to stop the clock from looking too flat and chunky.
Using a belt sander or plane, angle back each spur so
that it is only 1" (25 mm) thick at the spur's point, and
still 1 1/2" (38 mm) thick at the point where the spur
expands out to its full width (see diagram).
Now, decide which two spurs will act as the clock's

feet and angle these back at an angle of 10 degrees. Be
careful when doing this to ensure that each spur's front point remains sharp, while
angling back from this to form flat feet. This angle is necessary because otherwise
the weight of the mechanism will cause the clock to fall onto its face. Note:

different clock mechanisms may be of differing weights and balances. As such, the
angle of the feet may have to be adjusted accordingly.
Finally, sand down the entire project, rounding off the edges. However, try not to
round-off the spur points when sanding. Then apply wax.

Amateur Woodworker: Bread Box
Bread Box
Bread boxes are very easy to make and it is almost a
crime to consider buying one -- unless for some reason
wood will not go in your kitchen. This particular bread
box is based on one of the more common designs and is therefore easier to build
than one with a roll-top lid. Bread box fanatics (presuming such a person exists)
are split into two camps: those that want air holes and those that don't. We're not
about to pin our colors to either side of the argument and, instead, offer a choice
depending upon your own preference.
Construction
Tools required: Drill, sander, jigsaw, router
Wood required (pine):

Base 1 3/4" 10 3/4" 18 5/8"
Sides 2 3/4" 10 1/2" 10 3/4"
Top(see note) 1 1/2" 8 9/16" 19 1/8"
Door 1 1/2" 8 1/8" 18 5/8"
Back (plywood) 1 1/8" 9 1/2" 19 1/8"
Hinge (dowel) 2 1/8" 1/8" 1 1/2"
Handle 1 3/4" 1" 5 1/2"
Note: When cutting the top to shape, the front length should
be cut at a 80 degree angle. This is to ensure that the bread
box door rests against the top evenly, rather than on a very
thin edge (see diagram on left).
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Cut the two side pieces to the correct shape (see

diagram on right), rounding off the top with a
smooth curve. Decide which face of each side
piece is the inside face and mark it accordingly.
Then cut the groove in each of these inside faces.
The groove should be 1/2" wide, 1/4" deep and 8
1/16" long (measured from the back edge): it
should be cut parallel to the bottom of the side
piece at a height of 9" to 9 1/2" from the bottom.
[The top of the bread box slots into this groove,
thus strengthening the construction.] Finally, drill a 1/8" hole in either side piece,
as shown in the diagram. This should be 1 1/2" from the bottom of the side piece,
and in 1/4" from the front. The purpose of this hole is that the hinge dowel will
pass through this, into each side of the door.
As mentioned above, the top piece slots into the side-

wall groove. However, for the sake of neatness, you
will notice that the side groove is not quite as long as
the top piece is wide. Because of this, it is necessary to
cut a small niche out of each end of the top piece (see
diagram on left).
It is now necessary to make a groove in the top of the

base piece, the inside of both sides and the underside
of the top piece. This groove should be 1/8" wide, and 1/4" deep and should be
1/4" from the back of each piece. The back panel slots into this groove, ensuring a
nice tight fit. When creating the groove for the two side pieces, do not extent the
slot all the way to the top of the sides. Instead, only run the vertical 1/8" slot up to
where it intersects the 1/2" horizontal groove.
The final step prior to putting everything together is to prepare the

bread box' door. Dry fit the sides, base and top and make sure that the
door is the correct length to fit snugly between the sides. Then, round
off the bottom length of the door, so that the side profile looks like a
semi circle (see diagram).
Now, glue and nail (use small pin nails so that they won't show) the sides to the
base. Then, glue in the back plywood and add the top, so completing the box
shape. Clamp until the glue is dry. Once everything is dry, remove the clamps and
place the door into place. Then, drill through the 1/8" holes in each side, into the
side of the door. Put a little bit of glue onto each dowel, at least 1/2" from the end,
and then slide the dowel hinges through the side pieces into the door. The idea is
to glue the dowel into the side pieces, while leaving the door to rotate smoothly

around the dowel hinge (it is a good idea to wax the very end of the dowel before
gluing it).
Sand everything down, ensuring that the top of the door is flush with the top piece.
Screw and glue the handle onto the front and then oil the bread box. To finish the
bread box, we recommend mineral oil as it is a non-toxic oil.
Air Holes
If you have decided to add air holes to the bread box, drill 1/8" holes into the
upper part of the back plywood.
Handle
If you cannot find a satisfactory handle for the bread

box, you may decide that you want to make one from
scratch. If so, this is the plan for the handle used on
the above box. Note that the thickness of the handle is 3/4". Also note that the plan
provided is only half a plan. Simply sketch this out onto a block of wood, and then
turn the plan over to sketch out the other side. This approach helps to ensure that
the handle is uniform. Once you have cut out the shape, carefully sand it until you
have a nice rounded shape.

Amateur Woodworker: Basic Entertainment Center
Basic Entertainment Center

This entertainment center is a rather primitive affair,
as it is an "open-plan" design with no doors. The
philosophy behind this decision was that by leaving
the design open I would be less tempted to simply
throw any old junk into center's hidden recesses. This
design also allowed me to employ a curved design,
rather than the more typical straight edges, and this
reduced the unit's presence in the room -- as the room
is rather small, this was deemed to be very important.
Construction
Tools Required: Jigsaw, drill, circular saw (preferable but not necessary)
Wood Required (Pine):

Top 1 3/4" 26" 48"
Base 1 3/4" 26" 48"
Middle 1 3/4" 26" 48"
Left end support 1 3/4" 26" 13 1/4"
Middle supports 2 3/4" 26" 13 1/4"
Right support 1 3/4" 12" 13 1/4"
Feet 4 large wooden, rounded door knobs
Note: to create the widths needed for the top, middle and base pieces, you will
need to glue and dowel two pieces of pine together.
Using the diagram as a (very) rough template,

sketch out the final shape of the top on the 48" x
26" piece of wood. To give a basic idea of the
size, remember the above dimensions for the left
and right supports, and note in the diagram that
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the top piece curves sharply close to its right end, just past the final support. Once
you are satisfied with the shape of the top, use a jigsaw to cut out the shape, and
then sand down the edge to a smooth finish. Once the top is cut to a smooth shape,
use it as the template for cutting out the base piece, which is exactly the same size
and shape.
The middle piece should be indented one inch when compared to the top and the
bottom. To do this, use the top piece as the template and draw the size of another
(equally large) piece on the wood allocated for the middle. Then, draw a new line
on the middle piece that is indented one inch from this first "top" line. The
resulting inner line is the correct size of the middle piece and this too can now be
cut and sanded to shape.
Next, the four support pieces should by cut to shape. The prerequisites for the
shape of these are that they should be flush with the front edge of the top and
bottom pieces, as well as with the smaller middle piece. Because of this, the final
shape of the supports becomes a curved shape as shown in the diagram (see left).
The depth of these supports varies, depending upon which support it is. The right
and left support depths is relatively easy to gauge as it is a perpendicular line
drawn from the back of the unit, 1 1/2" in from each side. The middle two
supports, however, are perpendicular to the front, curved angle at the point at
which the curve meets the support (see top diagram). It is therefore necessary to
calculate where these middle two supports must be positioned before their depth
can be agreed upon.
The position of the middle two supports should obviously

straddle the central point of the center (so that the unit looks
balanced). To determine how large a gap should be allowed
between these two supports is determined by the width of
your particular VCR. Measure the width of your VCR and
add at least one inch to this dimension (2" would be
preferable) to allow free circulation around the machine. Use
this dimension to decide where the two supports should be
located (measure at the front of the unit) and then project
back a perpendicular line from this point until it reaches the
back of the unit. You can now cut the supports to this depth.
Once all four supports have been cut to shape, they can be
screwed and glued to the base of the unit. Having done this,
the middle board should then be cut into three pieces; one
for each of the gaps between the supports. Once cut to
shape, they can be glued at an appropriate height to form the
VCR/cable TV shelf. To determine the correct height for

this shelf, measure the height of the VCR and the cable box. Add a minimum of 1"
to the height of the tallest device and use this as the height of the shelf. Note that
all three middle shelf units should be attached at the same height. To attach the
middle shelf units to the supports, a combination of screwing and gluing can be
used as follows. Firstly, glue and screw the central middle shelf into place. It is
important to do this shelf first as starting at either end can bring a greater
inaccuracy into the measurements. Furthermore, this is the shelf that will take the
most weight and should therefore be screwed at both sides. Next, attach the left-
hand-side middle shelf. To do this, screw and glue though the left support and
simply glue onto the middle support. It is preferable to also use a couple of dowels
into this middle support, as this will make the unit much stronger. Clamp this shelf
in place overnight to ensure that the glue bonds sufficiently. The next day, repeat
this exercise for the right-hand shelf.
Once all the glued joints are dry, the clamps can be removed
and the top piece added. Do not use screws to hold this in place
as we wish to keep the top of the unit "pure". Instead, just glue
and clamp. Once the glue has bonded, the unit can be given a
final sanding and may then be waxed. Waxing is preferable to
varnish on a project such as this for a number of reasons.
Firstly, most furniture polish helps to improve the shellac overtime; the wax helps
the wood to age more naturally over time; most importantly, a unit such as this is
likely to get scratch (TVs get moved and so on): it will be easier to sand and re-
wax scratches than it would be the sand and try and match the varnish (and, of
course, varnish takes far longer to dry!)

Amateur Woodworker: Desk Organizer
Desk Organizer
Computers seem to create more paper than they
save these days, as anyone with a small computer
desk can attest to. The battle against clutter is
easily lost, making it very difficult to find
anything that you need quickly. With this goal in
mind (especially in my wife's mind) I finally built
a desk organizer and designed it to have small
drawers for hiding the more junky items, such as
floppy disks, staples and so on. The organizer
also had to accommodate the modem and a SyQuest drive, hence the open shelves
above and below the drawers.
Construction
Tools Required: Jigsaw, sander, router
Wood List (Pine):

Sides 3 1/2" 9 1/4" 16"
Partitions 2 1/2" 9" 9 3/4"
Cross member 1 1/2" 9" 13"
Base 1 1/2" 9 1/4" 19"
Drawer bases: 3 1/2" 6" 8 1/4"
Back 1 (hardboard): 1 1/8" 15 1/2" 12 3/4"
Back 2 (hardboard): 1 1/8" 15 1/2" 6"
Drawers: (quantities for one drawer)
Sides: 2 1/2" 2 1/2" 8 1/4"
Back: 1 1/2" 2 1/2" 4 1/2"
Front: 1 1/2" 3 1/2" 5 3/4"
Base (hardboard): 1 1/8" 5" 8"
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Cut the three side

pieces to shape,
matching the top
curve on each one.
Note that the
"middle" side piece
should be 1/2"
shorter than the other
two as it sits on top
of the base piece,
whereas the end two
side pieces reach all
the way to the
bottom (butted up
against the side of
the base piece). Take
one side piece and
the "middle" side
piece and cut the slots for the drawer bases. These slots should be 1/2" wide (and
1/8" deep), starting from 2 1/2", 5 3/4", 8 7/8" and 11 7/8" from the bottom of the
middle side piece (and therefore, 3", 6 1/4", 9 3/8" and 12 3/8" from the bottom of
the end side piece) -- see diagram. Then, cut a slot 1/8" from the back of each shelf
(1/8" wide and deep) that will take the hardboard back (number 2). Note: for the
middle side, this slot must be cut into both sides as it connects into both back one
and two.
Once these slots have bee cut, glue the drawer bases into the 1/2" wide slots,
ensuring that they are perpendicular to the sides, and also glue in back two.
Next, take the cross member piece and cut two slots, evenly spaced, from front to
back. These should be 1/2" wide and 1/8" deep and are used to fasten the two
partitions into place. Then cut the two partitions to shape (any shape will do as
long as they match each other) and then glue into the 1/2" wide slots.
Then, take the final side piece and cut a slot 1/2" wide, and
1/8" deep that starts 3" from the bottom of the piece. At this
time, also cut a slot (again, 1/2" wide and 1/8" deep) that is
2 1/2" from the bottom of the middle side piece. These slots
are used to fasten in the cross member piece. Then, cut a
1/8" wide, 1/8" deep slot along the back of the side piece,
that will allow the back to fasten in.
Once all slots have been made, fasten the side and the

drawer unit to the base (using glue and small nails). At the same time, slot in the
cross member piece (including the two partitions that should be attached to it).
Then, cut the back piece to a suitable shape, so that it dips down to meet the two
partitions (see photo and diagram). There is no exact science to this, just cut the
back into whatever shape looks good. Once cut, glue the back into the slots in the
side pieces, and attach to the partitions by the use of small nails from behind.
Finally, fill in the small gaps in front of the drawer bases by gluing small pieces of
wood into these slots. The main unit is now complete and can now be sanded
down to a smooth finish.
Drawer Construction
The drawers are very primitive, using no joints. Instead, simply glue and nail the
sides to the front and back, and then fill the holes. The one exception to this is the
drawer base which should be slotted in, using a 1/8" wide, 1/8" deep slot, as used
elsewhere in this project.
When attaching the front of the drawer, the easiest way is to slide the incomplete
drawer unit into its designated space, and then nail the front on, thus ensuring that
the front is a neat match against the sides, top and bottom of the space. Note that
the drawer front should overhang the drawer bases above and below it, so that
there is very little space between each drawer front.

Amateur Woodworker: Coat Rack
Coat Rack
This coat rack is one of the simpler projects that we have
featured in Amateur Woodworker. It was designed to fit in a
small hallway and had to accommodate both coats and the
usual paraphernalia such as gloves and hats (hence the shelf).
The reasoning behind the lemgth of the coat rack was to
allow wet coats to rest against the wooden slats, rather than
the wall, as well as allowing for more coat hooks to be fitted
into the relatively small space.
Construction
Tools required: drill, jigsaw, sander
Wood list (Pine)

Main vertical slats 7 3/4" 1 1/2" 53"
Shelf slats 7 3/4" 1 1/2" 10"
Cross members 5 1/4" 3/4" 15"
Support dowels 2 1/2" 1/2" 8"
Hooks 7
Ensure that all seven of the main vertical slats are cut
to the same length and round off both ends using a
jigsaw. Then sand these pieces (it will be difficult to
sand them once the project is complete). Take the five
cross member pieces and sand each end down into a
wedge shape (see diagram on left). Again, sand all five of the support pieces now,
rather than waiting until the project's completion.
Lay the seven vertical slats side by side, with a gap of 5/8" between each one.
Then, nail or screw (and glue) three of the cross members to these seven slats.
These cross members should be positioned 4" from the top and bottom of the slats,
with the remaining one being in the center. Obviously, the flat side of the cross
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member (rather than the wedge-shaped side) should be attached to the vertical
slats. Take the time to ensure that the cross members are attached at a 90 degree
angle to the vertical slats.
Next, round off one end of each of the seven

shelf slats. As with the vertical slats, lay out
the shelf slats side-by-side, with a gap of 5/8"
between each slat. It is important to ensure
that this layout is identical to that of the main
vertical slats. For this reason, it is a good idea
to lay out the shelf slats on top of the vertical
slats, thus ensuring a close match. Once laid
out correctly, attach the remaining two cross
members. One cross member should be flush with the flat end of the shelf slats,
while the other cross member should be 3" from the curved end of the slats (see
diagram).
Now it is time to make the holes into which the support dowels will fit. These
support dowels are fitted at a 45 degree angle and therefore, the holes into which
they fit must also be at a 45 degree angle. Drill a hole in the second and sixth slat
of the shelf, at a 45 degree angle, 5 1/2" away from the flat end of the shelf. Note:
these holes should be in the underside of the shelf (ie. the side that has the cross
members attached) and should angle the dowel towards the back of the shelf (the
flat end rather than the curved end).
Then, drill holes in the second and sixth main

vertical slats, 11" from the top of the unit. These
holes should again be at an angle of 45 degrees,
allowing the dowel to angle upwards. Note that
these holes should be in the front of the vertical
slats (ie. the side that does not show the cross
members).
Having made these holes, glue the dowel to the

main slats. Then glue into the shelf unit. At the
same time, screw the shelf unit into the main
slats from the rear. The shelf should be attached 6" from the top of the unit.
Small drawer handles were used as the actual coat hooks for this project. Every
other vertical slat should have a hook fastened to it, 5 1/2" beneath the shelf. Then,
the remaining slats should have a hook attached 21" below the shelf.
To attach the coat rack to the wall, drill holes into the top and bottom cross

member pieces in-between the vertical slats and attach with screws. Finish the
project by either varnishing or waxing.

Amateur Woodworker: Bathroom sink unit
Bathroom sink unit

Bathroom under-sink units are, traditionally, rather dull,
typically being very box-like in design. However, in small
bathrooms, where space is of a premium, a box-like shape
takes up too much space. This curved under-sink unit was
designed to fit into a small bathroom and while it may not
save much physical space, it certainly provides the illusion
of being much smaller than it actually is. Furthermore, by
building curved doors, the unit becomes a major feature in
a small room.
Construction
Tools required: Belt sander, jigsaw, drill
Wood required (Pine): Although dimensions are provided for this project as you
progress through the description, there is not a wood list as usual. This is because
each version of this project should be built to fit into its surroundings, rather than
forcing the surroundings to fit in with this project. It is important that you be
prepared to modify these plans any way you see fit in order to produce a unit that
fits into your own particular space. With this in mind, parts of the below
description are based less on the precise construction and more on the general
methods used. Good luck!
The frame
The first part of this project concentrates on the creation of the overall frame of the
unit. It is important to get this part right as it dictates the curve of the doors, as
well as the depth and width of the unit.
The frame is made out of 2 1/2" square Pine. First,

construct the base of the frame, as shown in the
diagram (right). To do this, sketch out the desired
curve on a large sheet of paper, and then -- using
lengths of the Pine -- fill out the curve by making these
building blocks. These lengths of Pine should be glued
together (and clamped overnight to ensure a good bond) but should not use nails or
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screws. Once the curved part of the frame has been constructed, roughly cut the
blocks into a semblance of the desired curve, and then sand into shape using the
belt sander. Once the curve is a satisfactory shape, repeat the entire process to
produce an identical curved piece for the top of the frame. When sanding the
second curve, it will help to clamp the two pieces together, using the first one as a
template for the second.
Once both curved pieces have been made, finish the

construction of both the top and bottom frames. Note from
the photo (left) that the top frame is missing part of the
back piece. this is to allow the sink to be fastened onto the
wall, as well as resting in the unit. The size of this gap will
be dictated by the size of the sink that you wish to use. The
bottom frame, however, should be a solid frame all the way
around, with no gaps.
Once both the top and bottom frame have been

made, it is time to join them together. This is done
in three places: both back corners and in the center
of the curve at the front. The total height of the
sink unit should be 33" (the standard for sinks) and
so, the height of the total frame should be 32", thus
allowing room for the tiles to be added, as well as
allowing the sink to stand slightly proud of the tiles
once the unit is complete. Again, 2 1/2" square
Pine should be used for these uprights. To attach
the uprights, drill screws down into the top of the
uprights, through the top of the frame, and up
through the bottom frame into the bottom of the uprights.
Finally, add a floor on top of the bottom frame. Ideally, instead of placing this
floor on top of the frame, it should be flush with it. This provides a slightly neater
solution, although it may seem like too much work for a rather small difference in
appearance.
Door construction
The doors are made in the same fashion as the top and bottom curves. The
difference is that the wood used is 3/4" thick, and 27" high. [This is presuming that
the height of the total frame is 32", and thus the gap between the top and bottom
frames is 27"]. The one caution when creating the doors is to ensure that there is a
reasonable overlap between each layer, otherwise the door will flex too much
when opened or closed. Note: the doors should not cover the entire width of the

unit, but instead should leave a 3" (at least) gap on either side. This is to allow the
doors to swing open as wide as possible without hitting an obstruction on either
side.
Once the layers have been glued together, ideally use a planer to roughly shape the
door (instead of using a saw as above). Once the rough shape has been planed out,
use the belt sander to round it off. The best advice when shaping the door is to take
your time. Don't try to take too much off too quickly. Remember the old maxim:
you can take more off, but you can't put it back on.
Once both doors have been satisfactorily

shaped, it is time to attach them to the frame.
The doors use hidden hinges, rather than
ruining the shape of the overall unit by having
hinges jutting out. Indeed, the hinges are very,
very basic: they are long bolts. Position the
door into place and then drill a hole straight
down through the top frame and into the top
of the door. A long bolt (4" or more) is then
placed into this slot, thus attaching the door to
the frame. This is repeated for the bottom of
the frame/door to form a hinge at both the
bottom and top of the door. Note: it is very important that the top and bottom
hinges match up very, very accurately. If they do not, the door will not open
smoothly. To ensure that this is done correctly, ensure that the frame is on a flat
surface, and then use a plumb line from the top hole to mark the bottom hinge
hole.
Filling out the frame
Once the doors have been fitted, you can add the sides to the
frame. Obviously, the back of the unit can remain open as it
will rest against a wall, but any side that will not be against a
wall should be covered using wide planks of Pine, 3/4" thick
and 17" long. These planks should be attached at the top and
bottom of the frame, or (ideally) from inside the unit. To cover
the gaps on either side of the door, it may be necessary to
overlap planks, using the same technique as was adopted for
the doors.
Once the frame has been covered, and sanded to the desired
shape, add a top to the frame. This should be made from thin
plywood (1/4" or 1/2"). Remember to cut out a hole to fit the sink! The top should

overlap the front and sides of the frame by approximately 1/2" and a thin piece of
pine (1/4" thick) should be attached to this edge to form an edging strip. The best
way to attach this is to glue and clamp overnight.
Give the unit a final sanding, and then apply marine varnish to all surfaces apart
from the top. At least two coats of varnish should be used, but I would suggest
three, if not four.
Once the varnish is dry, put the unit into its final position and attach to the wall
with screws. Install the sink into the top of the unit and, again, attach to the wall
with screws [Note: some sinks are designed to literally just rest on top of a unit
such as this and therefore so not need to be attached to the wall.]
Once the sink has been plumbed in, tile the top surface to complete the project.
Small tiles (2" square) look the best on a small unit such as this.

Amateur Woodworker: Artist's Easel
Artist's Easel
Earlier this year I was vaguely considering purchasing an
artist's easel, but a very cursory look in the local art shop soon
put a stop to this idea: easels are expensive! Quite why they
cost so much is beyond me as they are a very simple
construction (let's face it, the average easel consists of three
sticks for legs, with a couple of horizontal pieces to hold the
artwork up). So, rather than buying one, I decided that it would
be far more fun to design and build it.
This easel is built out of cherry, which is a fairly strong wood

that darkens with age to a beautiful reddish tone (not that
anyone will notice once it has been splattered by dabs of paint).
Construction
Tools needed: sander, jigsaw, drill, router (optional)
Wood required:

Front legs 2 3/4" 1 1/2" 68"
Back Leg 1 3/4" 1 1/2" 58"
Top of back leg 1 3/4" 1 1/2" 6"
Center support 1 3/4" 1 1/2" 70"
Bottom cross member 1 3/4" 1 1/2" 22"
Top cross member 1 3/4" 1 1/2" 9 1/2"
Front/back connector 2 1/4" 3/4" 6"
Bottom Rest 3 3/4" 3 1/2" 23"
Top Rest (1) 1 3/4" 2 1/2" 9"
Top Rest (2) 1 3/4" 1 1/2" 9"
http://www.am-wood.com/july97/easel.html (1 of 3) [11/3/2003 1:57:40 à«]

To begin the construction, first we should build the Center Support.

This item should have two slots cut in it to allow the Top and Bottom
Rests to move up and down to the correct position. First, mark out to
position of the bottom slot. This should be a slot that is 1/2" wide (and
should be positioned in the middle of the width of wood) running from
a low position of 4" to a high position of 45" from the bottom of the
piece of wood. To cut this slot, drill a hole 1/2" diameter at the bottom and top of
this marked slot, thus defining the top and bottom of the slot, and then use the
jigsaw to carefully cut out the 41" slot. Note that you must be quite accurate with
the jigsaw to ensure that the slot is 1/2" wide all along its length. Having cut out
this slot, proceed with the higher slot, which runs from a height of 48 1/2" to 66
1/2" from the bottom of the piece. Once both slots have been cut, use the jigsaw to
cut the top of the Center Support to a nice, rounded shape. Then sand the slots and
top.
Next, prepare the two front legs by also cutting the top of each
one to a rounded shape. Then, using the top and bottom cross
members, glue the two front legs as described below. Lay out
the two legs on the floor, ensuring that the bottom of the two
legs are 21 3/4" apart and the top of the legs are 3 1/4" apart.
Then, glue and screw the bottom cross member into the two legs, so that the cross
member is 9" from the bottom of the legs (Note: Use brass screws as the will look
far better). Then glue and screw the top cross member at a height of 55 3/4" from
the bottom of each leg. Finally, place a straight rule along the bottom, from the
bottom of one leg (outside corner) to the other and draw a straight line across both
legs, and then cut off the small triangle of excess wood below each line (thus
enabling the legs to stand flat, rather than standing on the inside corners only).
Once done, glue the Center Support onto the middle of the cross
members, with the bottom of the Center Support beginning at the
lowest point of the bottom cross member. Note: this should be
attached to the same side of the cross members as the front legs,
thus, all three vertical piece are at the same level.

Next, take the back leg piece and round the top of it
into a quarter circle (see diagram right). The, cut a 1/2"
wide slot in the back leg, from a height of 5 1/2" from
the top of the back leg, to a distance of 12" from the
top. This slot will be used to attach a sliding connector
between the from and back pieces of the frame. Take
the Top of Back Leg piece and curve each end. The cut
a 1/4" deep groove that is 3/4" wide down the middle
of width and attach the back leg (glue and screw).
Then, curve the bottom of the back leg, as shown.
Finally, attach two brass 1 1/2" long hinges to the Top
of Back Leg piece and attach these hinges to the top back support on the front
frame (see photo).
Add the small Front/back connectors as shown in the

photos, using small brass screws on the sides of the Center
Support (keep them loose so that the Front/back connectors
can swing freely) and a bolt through the back leg slot. Note
that because the back leg is thinner than the front Center
Support, it is necessary to glue an additional scrap of wood
onto the back end of each Front/back connector. Having
done this, the main frame of the easel is complete.
All that is left to do now is the

main Bottom Support and the
Top Support. To build the Bottom Support, take one of
the three pieces of wood and route a number of
grooves into one flat side (now Item One -- see
diagram). Take a second piece of wood and route out
all of the top, except for a thin lip at one side (Item
Two). Glue and screw the three pieces together, as
shown in the diagram, and then drill a hole through the center of Item three. Place
a bolt through this hole, through the main slot in the Center Support and tighten
with a wing nut.
To create the Top Rest, shape the larger piece of wood into an interesting shape
(see main photo at top), and then attach the smaller, 1 1/2" wide piece to the
underside of it. Then drill a hole through the center of the shaped piece and attach
(using a bolt and wing nut) to the top slot on the Center Support.
Finally, sand down everything and complete by waxing.

Amateur Woodworker: Mah Jong Box
Mah Jong Box

My parents-in-law have owned this Mah Jong
set for several generations, but have never had
a safe place to keep it. Instead, the pieces
have been stored in a cardboard box that is in
a rather decrepit state. Upon examination
recently, it was agreed that the cardboard
could no longer be repaired using tape and so
I set about making this box. Of course, not
many people want such a container, but it
could also be used for jewelry or (if the
dimensions are expanded) for silverware,
sewing tackle or whatever. The options are
seemingly endless. The box has five trays
inside it.
Construction
Tools: sander, router
Wood required (Cherry):

Base box sides: 2 1/2" 5 1/2" 10 1/4"
Base box ends: 2 1/2" 5 1/2" 7 1/4"
Lid box sides: 2 1/2" 1 1/4" 10 1/4"
Lid box ends: 2 1/2" 1 1/4 7 1/4"
Box top: 1 1/2" 7 1/4" 10 1/4"
Box bottom: 1 1/2" 6 1/2" 9 1/2"
Tray sides 10 1/2" 1" 9"
Tray ends: 10 1/2" 1 1/2" 6"
Tray base: 5 1/4" plywood 5 1/2" 8 1/2"
http://www.am-wood.com/july97/mjong.html (1 of 3) [11/3/2003 1:58:10 à«]

Building the tray
Cut all of the tray sides and ends to the correct

sizes (see table above) and put a 45 degree
miter onto each end. Then cut a groove 1/4"
deep and 1/4" wide along the inside of each
piece (the inside of the piece is always the side
that is shorter -- with the miter working
outwards towards the outside face) that is 1/8"
above the bottom of each piece. This groove
will be used to slot the base plywood into each tray. Because the box is quite deep,
the trays need to have handles built into them in order to facilitate their removal
from the box (Note: the very top tray DOES NOT have these handles -- see two
paragraphs down). Take a tray side piece and cut it to the shape shown in the
diagram (left). The highest point of this tray (ie at the top of the handle) should be
1 1/2", while the lower ends should be 1" high. Cut all of the side pieces to the
same profile shape.
To make the actual handle shape (with the

hole in the middle) use a router in the
following manner. Clamp the end piece down
securely, so that the inside of the piece faces
upwards. Sketch out the curve shown in the
above left diagram and then careful router this
shape out to a depth of 1/4". Then, turn the
piece upside down (so that the outside faces
upwards) and route out the shape shown in the diagram on the right, again to a
depth of just over 1/4". Where the two routed areas intersect, there will now be a
hole, thus forming a handle. Sand the edges of these handles to form a smooth,
rounded handle.
By routing out an area on the outside of each tray end, it allows space for the
protruding handle of the underneath tray to slot in neatly, thus saving space and
stopping the trays from rattling.
The one exception to this handle technique is the very top tray. Because it is the
top tray, it does not require a handle and both the sides and ends should be 1" high.
Once all the handles have been routed, the shelves can be glued together.
Remember to slide the base of the shelf along the groove at this time. Clamp each
tray for several hours (preferably over night). No screws or nails should be used.
Once it is dry, sand the trays and then glue felt into each tray. For the top tray, add

a couple of partitions by using some very thin wood. These partitions can be used
as a way of picking up the top tray.
Building the box
Cut all the pieces together and miter the ends

(construction of this box is done in the same way as for
the trays, using miter joints). On the inside of the Base
Box Sides and Ends, route out a niche along the
bottom of each one. The niche should be 1/2" wide and
3/8" deep (see diagram on left). This niche will allow the base piece to fit snugly
into the box, rather than sticking out underneath. Once this is done, glue the sides
and ends together, as well as gluing the base into place and ensure that the box is
square. Clamp over night to allow the glue to dry properly.
The lid is easier. Glue the sides and ends together and clamp the top piece on top
of the sides (it is not sunken in). Again, clamp overnight. Once it is dry, sand the
edges to create a smooth look.
Attach the top and bottom by using two very small hinges, sunken in to the top and
bottom of the box. Then add a locking mechanism to the front to stop the lid from
swinging open.
Finally, sand down everything and complete by waxing.

Amateur Woodworker: Adirondack-style chair
Adirondack style garden chair

Adirondack chairs have become very
popular in the past few years. The
shape and angle of these chairs is
somewhere between a normal garden
chair and a slovenly deck chair. The
result is a surprisingly comfortable
chair that, unfortunately, costs far
too much.
Fortunately, making an Adirondack

chair is not difficult and can cost as
little as $20, depending upon the
wood that you use. A sensible wood
choice (for duration) would be
redwood or oak. However, I was
more concerned about the cost of
making these, so I opted for the significantly cheaper pine and spent more time
varnishing.
Construction
Tools required: Jigsaw, drill, sander, screwdriver
Wood required:

Back legs: (2 pieces) 5 1/2" 38" 3/4"
Front legs: (2 pieces) 3 1/2" 24" 3/4"
Arm rests: (2 pieces) 5 1/2" 25" 3/4"
Front support: (1 piece) 1 1/2" 22" 3/4"
Front support (top): (1 piece) 5 1/2" 23 1/2" 3/4"
Seat slats: (13 pieces) 1 1/2" 22" 3/4"
Back support: (2 pieces) 3 1/2" 22 3/4"
http://www.am-wood.com/june97/adirondack.html (1 of 4) [11/3/2003 1:58:45 à«]

Back slats: (5 pieces) 3 1/2" 26" 3/4"
Take the two front legs and designate one end of each one as the top. Cut out a
notch 5 1/2" long and 3/4" deep out of the front edge of each leg. This notch
should begin 9 1/2" from the bottom of each leg. (So, measuring from the bottom,
the notch should begin at 9 1/2" and end at 15"). This notch is used to slot in the
Front Support (top) which runs along the front of the chair (behind your legs once
sitting in the chair).
Before fastening the Front Support (top) in place, you

should cut out a curve, or some other shape, as leaving
it as a solid 5 1/2" wide block looks rather ugly. I
usually just cut a simple curve, although a more ornate
shape would undoubtedly look nicer. Once this is
done, glue and screw the Front Support (top) into the
notches cut into the two front legs. Ensure the
squareness of these before putting the screws in.
Next, take the two back legs pieces. Cut out the shape of the legs, as shown in
diagram one. Note: the back support connects with the back legs 17" from the
front of the chair. I have not supplied a more detailed representation of the back
leg's shape as it is really up to each individual how it is shaped. Suffice to say that
17" from the front, the shape should have angled upwards.
Once these back legs have been cut to shape, attach them to the inside of the front
leg construction. At this point, the seating slats should be attached, thus forcing the
back legs to angle correctly. To attach the seat slats, pre-drill each end with a
screw hole, and then screw the slats onto the back legs. Work from the front of the
chair backwards, until you have completely covered the 17" seating area.
The Back Rest
To build the backrest, you should first construct the bottom back
support. Take the 3 1/2" x 22" piece of wood and cut a notch out of each
end that is 3/4" deep and 2" high (see diagram opposite). Then screw and
glue the five back slats onto this back support, keeping them 2" above the bottom
of the back support (so they overlap the back support by 1 1/2"). Once this is done,
screw and glue the other back support onto the back slats at a height of 13 1/2" to
17" above the bottom of the back slats.
Once this is dry, use the jigsaw to cut the back into a nice curve.
the highest point of the curve should be 26", while the lowest part

(at each side) should be about 18" (obviously, the exact dimensions are up to the
individual). Before the back can be fastened onto the body of the chair, it is
necessary to cut the armrests to shape (see diagram right).
Cut the armrests to a shape as shown in the diagram opposite. Again, the exact
shape is up to you. Attach a small block of wood to the underside of each armrest
at the back (see photo). Screw the armrests into the top of the front legs, leaving
about 1" sticking back beyond the front legs. Then, attach the backrest by putting a
screw through each back leg into the notched part of the back support.
Finally, put a screw through the small lump of

wood under the armrest into the upper back
support. All that is then needed is to cut a
small shaped piece of wood to support the
front of the armrest (where it meets the front
leg) -- thus stopping it from bending when
pressure is placed on it.
The chair should be given at least two coats of

marine varnish before being placed outside.
Oh, and for anyone feeling a little bit more

adventurous, there are many variations that can be
made, such as the two-seater adirondack rock chair
shown below.


Amateur Woodworker: Adirondack Rocking Chair
Adirondack rocking chair

Due to popular demand, we have expanded
upon the flippant comment at the end of the
Adirondack chair feature and now offer the
below description of how to make the two-
seater rocking chair version. You will notice
that the general methodology behind its
construction is very similar to that of the
standard Adirondack chair.
As with the standard chair, this rocker was

constructed using pine, although a hardier,
albeit more expensive, wood will provide
many more years of enjoyment.
Construction
Tools required: Jigsaw, drill, sander, belt sander (optional)
Wood required:

Back legs 2 3/4" (19 mm) 5 1/2" (140 mm) 30" (760 mm)
Front legs 2 3/4" (19 mm) 3 1/2" (89 mm) 21" (533 mm)
Arm rests 2 3/4" (19 mm) 5 1/2" (140 mm) 25" (635 mm)
Front support
1 3/4" (19 mm) 1 1/2" (38 mm) 44" (1,117 mm)
(lower)
Top Front 45 1/2" (1,155
1 3/4" (19 mm) 5 1/2" (140 mm)
support mm)
Seat slats 11 3/4" (19 mm) 1 1/2" (38 mm) 44" (1,117 mm)
Back support 2 3/4" (19 mm) 3 1/2" (89 mm) 44" (1,117 mm)
Back slats 10 3/4" (19 mm) 3 1/2" (89 mm) 26" (660 mm)
http://www.am-wood.com/nov97/adrock.html (1 of 4) [11/3/2003 1:59:21 à«]

Middle seat
1 3/4" (19 mm) 5 1/2" (140 mm) 16" (406 mm)
support
Rockers 4 3/4" (19 mm) 3 1/2" (89 mm) 34" (864 mm)
Take the two front legs and designate one end of each one as the top. Cut out a
notch 5 1/2" (140 mm) long and 3/4" (19 mm) deep out of the front edge of each
leg. This notch should begin 6 1/2" (165 mm) from the bottom of each leg. [So,
measuring from the bottom, the notch should begin at 6 1/2" (165 mm) and end at
12" (305 mm).] This notch is used to slot in the Top Front Support which runs
along the front of the chair (behind your legs once sitting in the chair).
Before fastening the Top Front Support into these

notches, cut out the curve (or other desired shape)
so make it look more interesting. I usually cut out
two matching curves, side by side, to signify that
this is a two-seater chair, as well as to match the
back rest style. Once cut to the desired shape,
glue and screw the Top Front Support into the
two front leg notches. Ensure that these joints are
square before putting the screws in.
Once the Top Front Support has been attached,

finish of the front section of the chair by attaching the Front Support (lower). This
should be attached level with the bottom of the two legs (in other words, at a
height of 0" to 1 1/2" (38 mm) from the bottom of each leg), and is fastened into
place by a screw (at each end) that is attached through each leg into the end of the
Front Support (lower). Once attached, ensure that the completed front unit is
square. This unit should now be left for several hours, until the glue has dried.
Next, take the two back leg pieces. Cut out the shape
of the legs, as shown in the diagram (right). Note: the
back support connects to the back legs 17" (432 mm)
from the front of the chair. Cut the two back legs into a
shape roughly resembling the diagram. I have not
provided a more detailed diagram because it is really
up to the individual (and the size of his/her posterior)
to decide on the final shape of the seating area. Once you have cut out the two
legs, use these as a guide and cut out the middle seat support. Note the line on the
diagram that shows where the middle support ends. This is a rough estimate of the
angle that needs to be cut at the back of the middle support. This is cut to a more
accurate shape at the last minute, just prior to its attachment (see later).

Once the back legs and middle support have been cut to shape, attach the legs to
the inside of the front leg construction (gluing and screwing from the inside
outwards). At this point, the seating slats should be attached, thus forcing the back
legs to angle correctly. To attach the seat slats, pre-drill each end of the slat with a
screw hole, and then screw and glue the slats onto the back legs. Work from the
front of the chair backwards -- leaving as little gap as possible between each slat --
until you have completely covered the 17" seating area (at which point, the back
support will be attached).
The Back Rest
To build the back rest you should first construct the Bottom
Back Support. Take the 3 1/2" x 44" (89 mm x 1,117 mm)
piece of wood and cut a notch out of each end that is 3/4"
(19 mm) deep and 2" (51 mm) high (see diagram opposite).
Then screw and glue the ten back slats onto this back
support, keeping them 2" (51 mm) above the bottom of the
back support (so they overlap the back support by 1 1/2" (38
mm)). Once this is done, screw and glue the other back
support onto the back slats at a height of 13 1/2" (343 mm)
to 17" (432 mm) above the bottom of the back slats.
Once the back rest is dry, use the jigsaw to cut the
back into a nice sweeping double curve. The highest
point of the curve should be 26" (660 mm), while the
lowest part (at each side) should be about 18" (457 mm) -- obviously, the exact
dimensions are up to the individual. The highest points of the back rest should be
slats three and seven, while the low points should be slats one and ten (the ends) as
well as the meeting of slats five and six in the middle. Before the back can be
fastened onto the body of the chair, it is necessary to cut the armrests to shape (see
diagram left).
Cut the armrests to a shape as shown in the diagram. Again, the exact shape is up
to you. Attach a small block of wood to the underside of each armrest at the back
(see photo). Screw the armrests into the top of the front legs, leaving about 1" (25
mm) sticking back beyond the front legs. Then, attach the backrest by putting a
screw through each back leg into the notched part of the back support.

Finally, put a screw through the small lump of

wood under the armrest into the upper back
support. All that is then needed is to cut a
small shaped piece of wood to support the
front of the arm rest (where it meets the front
leg) -- thus stopping it from bending when
pressure is placed on it.
Once the back rest and arms have been added,

you can attach the middle seat support. Cut the
back end of the seat support to an angle
matching that of the back rest (typically about
20 degrees from vertical) so that the seat support is flush against the Bottom Back
Support. Screw and glue the seat support into place, exactly half way along the
seating area. The support should be attached using screws running through the Top
Front Support (2 screws) as well as through the Bottom Back Support (again, two
screws). Once attached by the above four screws, the middle seat support should
also be attach to the 13 seat slats, again using screws. This is important because it
will help to distribute the pressure more evenly.
Building the Rocker
The final task is to build the two rockers. Each rocker is made up of two pieces 3
1/2" x 34" x 3/4" (89 mm x 864 mm x 19 mm) that are glued and screwed
together. Cut each piece into the profile shown in the chair side profile above.
Note that the front of the rocker has a more defined curve, while the back end is a
gentle, longer curve, rather like the profile of an aeroplane's wing. This is
important as it ensures that you will not tip over the back of the chair. Once you
have cut the two pieces to their rough shape, glue and screw them together. Then,
sand them into a smooth shape (this is best achieved using a band sander).
The rocker is attached to the legs of the chair at a distance of 1 1/2" to 5" (38 mm
to 127 mm) from the front and 4" to 9" (102 mm to 229 mm) from the back. To
attach the rocker to the chair, screw up from the underneath of the rocker into the
chair leg. To make sure that the screw head does not show, drill up 1/4" (10 mm)
using a drill bit that is slightly larger than the screw head, thus allowing the screw
to be sunken well into the rocker.
Once the rockers are attached, the chair should be given at least two coats of
marine varnish before being placed outside.

Amateur Woodworker: Curved bedside cabinets
Curved bedside cabinets

Most bedside cabinets are a rather
dull design, being simply a box-like
shape. When the below bedside
cabinets were designed, we wanted
to subtly change the shape and feel
of the cabinets, but without removing
any of the functionality.
The basic requirement was to

provide two large drawers (for
knickknacks of additional clothing),
and a shelf area for putting extra
books, or anything else that is
considered a bedside necessity. In order to change the shape slightly, it was
decided to make the front of the cabinet curved, rather than producing the more
normal flat drawer fronts. Before anyone throws up their hands in disgust, thinking
that we used some sort of steamer to bend the wood, don't worry...we cheated! No
wood has been bent: instead, it has simply been planed and sanded into this shape.
Construction
Tools required: Plane (or belt sander), sander (for finishing), drill, jigsaw, circular
saw (or router or some other device used for making a groove -- this tool is not
completely necessary, as the groove can be avoided).
Wood required

Main Unit
Sides 2 16" 20" 3/4"
Top 1 18 1/2" 24" 3/4"
Shelf 1 17" 22" 3/4"
Front base 1 1 1.2" 22" 2 1/4"
Back panel 1 21" 20" 1/4" (plywood)
http://www.am-wood.com/june97/bedside.html (1 of 4) [11/3/2003 1:59:47 à«]

Shelf runners 4 3/4" 14 1/2" 1/2"

Draw Units
Sides 4 5 1/2" 14 1/2" 3/4"
Back 2 5 1/2" 18 3/4" 3/4"
Front 2 6 22 2 1/4"
Base 2 14 19 1/4" plywood
Note: the drawer unit quantities include the wood needed to build both drawers. Also, to create
some of the widths described above, it will be necessary to join two or more planks of wood
together: refer to the dowel joint in the Joints section.
The Main Unit
Firstly, the two side pieces should be cut to

shape in the following way. The front edge of
each side piece should have a notch cut out of
it that is 3/4" deep and runs from the bottom
of the side piece up to a height of 13 1/2" (see
diagram on left). This notch is taken out to
accommodate the drawers, thus ensuring that
the drawers fit flush to the unit.
A groove should then be cut unto the inside of

each side unit, from front to back, at a depth
of 1/4". This groove should start 13 1/2" from the bottom of each piece and should
be 3/4" wide. This groove is used to slot in the shelf (see joints section for more
details on creating a slotted tenon joint).
Another slot should be cut, from top to bottom of each piece (again, on the inside)
that is 1/4" wide and 1/4" from the back of each side unit. This slot is used to join
the back piece of plywood onto the side pieces. To create this slot you will
typically need a circular saw. However, this can be avoided by simply nailing the
back piece onto the side units, rather than slotting it into place (not as nice, but if it
saves you from buying a circular saw...).
Finally, nail and glue the shelf runners into place: the bottom of the lower runner
should be 4" from the bottom of the side unit, and the lower part of the higher
runner should be 10" from the bottom of the side unit. It is important to ensure that
these runners are level (not sloping towards the front or the back) in order to
ensure that the drawers work correctly.

It is now time to cut the top and the shelf to the correct shape. These should be
curved on one side (the front) and flat on all others. The top should be 16 1/2"
deep (from front to back) at the sides, but in the center it should be a total depth of
18 1/2". Mark out the two side depths, and the center depth and then sketch out a
smooth curve between these three points. The easiest way to do this is to attach a
length of string or cord to a pencil and then, holding the cord at one fixed point
along the center line, draw the curve. Keep experimenting until the curve makes
contact with both side marks, as well as the mark in the center. Once this curve has
been sketched out, cut the curve using a jigsaw and then sand smooth.
The shelf curve is the same proportions as the top

(in order to match neatly). The side depths should
be 15 1/2" and the center should be 17". Again,
sketch out this curve and then cut, using a jigsaw.
However, the shelf is slightly more complex than
that and it is necessary to cut a long notch out of
each side of the shelf. This notch should be 1/2" out
of each side, and should run from the back to almost
the very front of each side: indeed, up to a point level with the beginning of the
curve (see diagram).
Once the shelf has been cut, it is time to make the Front Base unit. This is made
out of a strip of wood 22" long and 1 1/2" wide. Note that this piece of wood is 2
1/4" thick (commonly made out of three pieces of 3/4" stock glued together. The
idea is to make this piece of wood appear to be curved and this is done by planing
(or band sanding) the wood into a curve that is the full 2 1/4" thick in the center,
but only 3/4" thick at each side. As with the shelf unit, firstly sketch out the curve
on the piece of wood. However, a jigsaw will not be able to cut this piece of wood
and instead it should be planed into a curve. personally, I prefer to use a band
sander, but whichever way you pick, this will take some time!
Once the front base is shaped correctly, all the components for the main unit are
ready and it is now just a matter of gluing them together. Firstly, glue the shelf into
place, followed by the front base unit. I recommend also screwing the shelf into
place by placing a screw through each side piece (this screw hole can then be filled
and will be fairly well hidden). It may also be necessary to use small square
triangular pieces to help attach the front base to the side pieces. Once these pieces
are in place, slide the back sheet of plywood into the back slot, and glue in place.
Finally, attach the top piece, using dowels to attach the top to the side pieces.
The Drawer
Take the side pieces and mark one side of each one as being the inside to save

confusion later. The outside face of each side piece should have a groove just over
3/4" wide cut into it, running along the length of each piece with the lowest point
of the groove being 2" from the bottom of the side piece. This groove should be
1/2" deep and is for the shelf runners to slide into.
Each side and end piece should then have a 1/4" groove (1/4" wide and deep) cut
into the inside face. This groove should be 1/4" from the bottom of each piece and
is to slot the plywood shelf base into.
Once all of this has bee done, glue and screw the side pieces into the back piece.
Note the side pieces should run the entire length of the drawer, with the back piece
being sandwiched in-between (the total depth of the drawer from front to back, not
including the drawer front, should be 14 1/2"). Once these have been glued and
screwed, slide the plywood base into the groove and glue it in place. Ensure that
everything is square.
To make the curved fronts of the drawer we use the same technique as was used on
the front base. Mark the curve and then use a band sander to round off the wood.
Again, the center of the drawer front should be a depth of 2 1/4" while the two
ends should only be 3/4" deep.
Once this is done, it is time to attach the drawer fronts to the drawer units. To do
this, slide the drawer into the main unit and then place the drawer front carefully
on top. Mark the correct placement of this drawer and the glue and dowel into
place. There should be just room for both drawer fronts to co-exist and it is
important to be very accurate when doing this.
Once done, attach handles to the front of the drawers and then wax everything,
with particular attention being given to the shelf runners.

Amateur Woodworker: Shelving Unit
Shelving Unit
Shelving has always struck me as being a particularly boring
thing to build. The standard shelving unit has two sides, a
back and a number of actual shelves in the middle. Because
of this, it was a project that I delayed for as long as I possibly
could, but finally the sheer mass of clutter in my home
forced my hand...or was it my wife's insistence that I clear up
my "junk" somehow.
Still in search of something a little different from the norm, I

finally came up with this design. Although originally
designed to fit into an alcove, the lack of sides and a back
meant that when I moved house, the shelving unit worked
just as well on a normal wall.
In the below reproduction of this project I have cheated

slightly: in the original project I turned the columns out of solid beech using a
lathe. The advantage of this was that I could make the columns any diameter I
wanted. Of course, the disadvantage was that I had to learn how to use a lathe and
since I always believe in learning as I go along, some of the columns came out
better than others! The alternative (and far easier) approach is to use to widest
diameter of dowel that you can purchase (typically around one inch). The result is
just as effective.
Construction
For this project I elected to use beech. Although a relatively expensive wood I felt
that the final result would make it worthwhile as beech gives a very nice finish
when waxed. Also, as I planned to store my stereo unit on one of the shelves, I
wanted to use a wood that would not warp too easily.
To make the shelves cut the beech to a length of 46 inches long, 15 1/2 inches
wide and 3/4 inches thick. To get this width you will have to dowel two pieces of
beech together (see joints section). In all you will need six shelves so it is wise to
plan ahead and begin the doweling process about a week before you start the main
part of the project (unless you have a tremendous number of sash clamps).
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Once you have cut the shelves to their rough shape,

mark out the final shape (including the curves) on
one piece. This final shape is obviously up to each
individual, but I have supplied a rough template to
give you the right idea. Note also that on this
template I have marked where the four holes
should be drilled. Do not, yet, worry about these holes, instead concentrating on
getting the shape right.
Once you have marked out the shape of the first shelf, cut it out using a jigsaw.
Cut just outside of the line you have drawn and then sand the edge down to a
smooth shape.
When you are satisfied with this shelf, use it as a template for all of the other
shelves. Having marked out the other five shelves, cut them to shape, and sand
them down to match the shape of the first shelf.
Once all the shelves are of a satisfactory shape, mark the positions of the four
holes on the top shelf. The diameter of these holes should be somewhere around
3/8 inches. The precise diameter of the holes should be matched to whatever thin
dowel you have available (see next section for an explanation of why you need
these).
Drill the holes through the top shelf. Then drill matching holes through the other
five shelves, using this top shelf as a template again.
The columns
As discussed earlier, the columns (supports) should be constructed out of the

widest diameter of dowel that you can buy (typically between 1 and 2 inches).
Each support should be 13 1/4 inches long. In total, you will need to cut out 20 of
these.
In addition, it is necessary to cut out 8 more columns, of length 2 inches. These are
used as to tops and the feet of the shelving unit.
Once you have cut out all of these shapes you need to drill a small hole in each end
of the 13 1/4 inch columns. This hole should match the size of the thin dowel that
you have available (the dowel that you used as a match for the holes in the
shelves). These holes should be at least 1/2 inch deep and must be in the center of
the top and bottom of each column. For the feet and the tops, just make a hole in
one end.

Once you have done this, sand all of the columns and slightly round off the top of
the top pieces and the bottom of the feet pieces to give a more pleasing finish.
Before constructing the shelves, wax them. The columns will need to be stained to
match the wood used for the shelves (it is unlikely that you managed to get beech
dowel) and then waxed.
It is now time to put the shelves together. First, place a

thin dowel (length 1 3/4 inches) into the holes of the four
feet, and then push these dowel/feet combinations against
the bottom shelf so that the thin dowel passes through the
four holes made in the shelf. Then, place four columns
on top of this shelf, ensuring that the dowels enter the
holes in the bottom of these columns. Then place thin
dowels into the tops of these columns and repeat the
process with the next shelf. And so on until you have
placed the tops onto the final shelf. Note that there is no
need to glue these columns in place. Indeed it is a distinct
advantage to not glue them as this means that you will be
able to disassemble the shelving unit if necessary.
To ensure that the shelving unit is completely stable, it is worth attaching the
shelving to the wall by the use of small, angled brass plates that can be screwed
into the bottom of the shelf (at the back) and then into the wall. It is not necessary
to do this on every shelf, just on every other shelf.

Amateur Woodworker: Storage Chest
Storage Chest
This chest was designed to have a dual purpose: firstly
(and most obviously) as a storage unit and secondly as
a coffee table in a small living room. The shape is very
basic, but is the most functional for storing toys and
games in. In order to improve the aesthetic appeal of
the chest it was decided that dovetail joints would be
used to join the sides. Details of how to create easy
dovetail joints has been included in the Joints section. However, it is not necessary
to use dovetail joints: any form of jointing, such as dowel joints, could be used.
Construction: The base unit
The sides of the base piece were made out of pine with the front and back being of
dimensions 30 x 9 x 3/4 inches and the sides 16 x 9 x 3/4.
Having cut these pieces to size, the first job is to create the dovetail joints. These
were done using a router and a dovetail template (see joints section for more
details) with the dovetail showing on the side pieces, not on the front and back.
Once the dovetails have been cut, the next job is to create a means of attaching the
base wood into the front and sides. The base was made out of a piece of 1/2 inch
thick plywood. To attach the base plywood to the sides and front, a slotted tenon
joint was cut 1/2 inch from the bottom of the sides, back and front. The size of this
slot is 1/2 inch wide (the same as the thickness of the plywood) and 3/8 inch deep.
The size of the base plywood is 29 1/2 inches long by approximately 16 inches
wide. It is important that you take your own precise measurement of this piece
once you have cut the dovetails as the exact dimensions will depend on the depth
of the joint and so on. To measure this size, dry fit the four sides together and
measure the dimensions of the inside of the box. Then add on a measurement of
3/8 inch at each end for the depth of the slotted tenon joint.
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Amateur Woodworker: Storage Chest
When you have cut the base to size, glue the four
sides and the base together and clamp for several
hours, ensuring that the sides are at 90 degree
angles to the front and back pieces.
The lid
The lid is built in a very similar way. Cut out the front and back to the dimensions
30 x 5 x 3/4 inch, and the sides 16 x 5 x 3/4 inch and route out the dovetails. Take
a moment to ensure that you are cutting the dovetails out of the sides (as you did
on the base unit) rather than the front and back.
Unlike the base unit, you do not need to route out a slot for the lid. Instead, the lid
is made from pine, of rough dimensions 30 x 16 x 3/4 inches. Again, take your
own measurement by dry fitting the four sides. Obviously, to make a piece that is
16 inches wide, you will need to join two pieces of pine together by doweling
them.
Glue the four sides together and then glue the top on. There is no need for screws
or nails, simply use a strong wood glue and leave the whole unit clamped over
night.
Finishing the project
Sand the entire chest, taking extra care to make sure

that all of the corners are neatly rounded off - the last
thing you want is sharp corners that you may bang you
leg into - and then wax it.
Add two hinges to the back of the unit and a clasp to

the front. In this project it is worth buying ornamental
hinges and a clasp as it adds to the design - hiding the
hinges will make the chest look rather dull.
Finally, add a chain or similar mechanism to the inside of the chest to stop the lid
from swinging open too far, and consequently damaging the hinges.
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Amateur Woodworker: Bedside Lamps
Crooked bedside lamps

Having scoured the department stores for a set of bedside lamps
that would match the rest of my bedroom furniture, I finally
gave up and opted for the more entertaining idea of making my
own. The specification for the construction of these lamps was
simple: they had to be cheap (less than $100 for both) and must
use power tools that I already owned. The result was a set of
oak lamps that are unique (as far as I know), but were
constructed using only a jigsaw and an electric drill.
Construction
The stem of each lamp is made up of four pieces of oak (cherry

would work just as well), 11 inches high, 1 1/4 inches wide and
deep. Firstly, number the four pieces of wood and remember the
order in which they are put next to each other, thus forming a larger
square of 2 1/2 inches wide and deep. Using the template (see
diagram on right) sketch the design onto each block. To do this,
fold the template in half along the dotted line and position this over
the block so that the design can be sketched onto two sides. Before
cutting, check that when the four pieces are placed together, the
result is the same as the template (i.e. the curved shape that the final
lamp should display).
To cut the each of the four blocks of wood use a jigsaw, and try to
be as accurate as possible with the cuts (the more accurate you are
now, the less sanding must be done later). Use a thin jigsaw blade
and workl along the length of the wooden blocks very slowly. Do not discard the
waste wood, as this is useful in the clamping stage.
Once each block of wood has been cut, there will be one corner edge of each piece
that displays no sign of a curve. This is the edge that is the center of the lamp. At
this point, it is necessary to make a slot for the electrical cable to fit through from
top to bottom. To do this, chamfer an angle off the central edge of each of the four
blocks (see diagram two). When the four blocks are placed together there will be a
neat, square hole running all the way down the middle of the lamp.
http://www.am-wood.com/jan97/blamp.html (1 of 3) [11/3/2003 2:01:08 à«]

Glue two of the shaped blocks together - forming a "double block" that is 2 1/2
inches wide by 1 1/4 inches deep - using a good quality wood glue, and clamp for
several hours. Note that it is important to ensure that the flat side of the clamped
block lines up smoothly, as this is what the second "double block" will be glued to.
As the blocks are curved, it can be difficult to use clamps. However, if the
previously discarded waste wood is used to fill the curves, this issue is easily
resolved. Repeat this gluing process on the remaining two blocks.
Finally, when both double blocks are securely glued,

glue the two halves together, thus forming the final
shape of the lamp stem.
At this point, the top of the stem should have a 1 1/4

inch diameter hole drilled in it, to an approximate
depth of one inch. This hole will house the light bulb
electrical element (the item into which the light bulb is
screwed).
Once this is done, sand the stem using coarse, medium

and fine grade sandpaper, until the stem is suitably
smooth.
Base construction
The base is almost an anticlimax after the rest of the

project. Cut a piece of wood 8 1/2 inches square and
3/4 inch deep and mark the center of this lamp base by drawing a line from corner
to corner, thus forming an "X". Place the finished lamp stem over the center of this
"X", and draw around it carefully, thus marking the size of the hole needed to be
cut in the base piece. Again, this can be cut out using a jigsaw. However, be
careful not to cut out too much as the resulting hole should be a tight fit around the
stem. To ensure this tight fit, make the first cut one sixteenth of an inch inside of
the pencil markings, and then expand this cut outwards if necessary.
Once the hole is a satisfactory fit, all that is left to do is to miter the base to the
design of your choosing, rather than leaving is as one big block. On the lamp
shown above, the miter cut down to a depth of 1/2 inch at each side, leaving the
center as the full height of 3.4 inch. This in turn was sanded down to a smooth
curve when the base was sanded.
On the underneath of the base, cut out a rough groove from the center hole the one
edge of the base. This groove is used to run the wire along from the stem to the
edge of the lamp. Note that the edge chosen should be to poorest of the four edges,

as this will be the back of the lamp.
The lamp stem should now be glued to the base, and left for
several hours to dry. It is obviously important to ensure that the
stem is perpendicular to the base during this stage, but if the
base hole was a tight fit, this should not be too difficult to
achieve.
Once the glue is dry, thread the electrical wire through the stem.
Connect the wire to a light bulb electrical element and push this down into the hole
on the top of the stem.
To finish off the lamp, glue a square piece of felt to the underside of the lamp to
prevent the lamp from scratching other surfaces (and also hiding the wire
underneath) and wax the wood (see Finishes Department for more details).

Amateur Woodworker: Compact TV Cabinet
Compact TV Cabinet
Although desirable, it is not always easy to add life's little
comforts into a bedroom where space is a premium. By
the time room has been made for the necessities of life,
such as bedside cabinets, closets and a chest of drawers,
there is often no room for the TV.
This was the problem that we came across when we

decided to add a television to our bedroom. The only
space we had was a 23 inch gap between two closets and
putting a TV stand there looked ugly as it seemed to stick
out too far. The solution was to design a top-heavy pine
TV cabinet that gave the illusion of taking up less space
than it actually does. The illusion is aided by the sweeping curves of the two sides,
rather than utilizing straight lines.
Construction: The side pieces
The first stage of this project is to build the two side pieces. Each side is
constructed out of two planks of pine, each 36 inches long, 9 1/4 inches wide and
3/4 inches thick. These were glued and doweled together (see the Joints section) to
form one wide surface out of which the correct shape can be cut.
By referring to the plan in diagram one, sketch the shape of the side piece onto the
plank of wood, and then cut this shape out, using a jigsaw. The exact shape and
curve of the side piece is obviously a matter of individual taste, but it should be
remembered that deviating from the above design will change the dimensions of
the shelf pieces. When the first side has been cut to shape, and roughly smoothed
with sandpaper, use this as a template for cutting out the second side piece. Try to
ensure that these two sides are a very close match, as if they do not the cabinet will
onviously look a little lop-sided.
Once both sides have been cut to shape, sand the edges to a desirable finish,
ensuring that they still match each other. the best way to do this is by clamping the
two together while they are being sanded down, to ensure that the curve matches
correctly. Once this is done it is time to make the grooves into which the shelves
will slot.
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In this example, the grooves were made by using a

router, cutting a half inch slot (half inch wide, 3/8 inch
deep) for each of the three shelves. However, it is
possible to make these slots using either a special groove
planer, or by using a chisel. However, the cost of a
cheap router (mine cost $25 in a garage sale) is well
worth the expense as it saves a lot of time, and produces
an accurate finish.
To ensure the grooves are straight, clamp a metal ruler

onto the side piece that can act as a guide for the router
base. Once the three grooves are cut, repeat this process on the second side piece,
ensuring that you cut on the correct, inside face (i.e. the opposite face to the first
side piece).
Once these grooves are cut, the two side pieces are complete.
The shelves
The shelves are made out of half inch plywood, but a pine edging piece is added to
the front of each shelf to give a better feeling of depth to the shelves. The
exception - or rather, the variation - to this rule, as we shall see lower down, is the
bottom shelf.
The dimensions of the shelves used in this plan are as follows:
● Top shelf: 22 3/8 wide, 17 1/2 inch deep

● Middle shelf: 22 3/8 wide, 9 3/4 inch deep
● Bottom shelf: 22 3/8 wide, 10 inch deep
Cut these dimensions out of 1/2 inch thick plywood, and sand using medium and
fine sandpaper. Once this is done, you must then create the pine edging as follows.
Cut two lengths of pine, each 21 5/8 long and 3/4 wide and deep. Cut a groove into
each of these along one side of the length that is 1/2 inch wide and 3/8 inch deep
using the router. Check that this groove will allow the 1/2 inch thick plywood to
slot into it. However, do not glue the edging piece onto the plywood yet.
The construction of the bottom edging piece is slightly more arduous as this is a
larger piece of wood. Construct a piece of pine that is 21 5/8 inches long, 1 1/2
inches wide and 1 1/2 inches deep. The easiest way to make this thickness is to
glue two 3/4 inch thick pieces of pine together.

Once this base piece has been constructed, cut a groove 1/2 inch wide,
and 3/8 inch deep along the back of it, 1/4 inch from the top of the
wood. Note: the back and the front should be the solid side of the pine
construction, with only the top and bottom showing any sign of the
joint between the two 3/4 inch thick pieces.
This solid piece of wood must now be planed down to the same angle as the lowest
1 1/2 inches of the side pieces (please refer to the diagram for a rough example of
the side profile of this piece).
Once this is complete, it is time to

put all of the elements together.
Place wood glue in the three slots on
each side piece, and slide the three
shelves into these slots. Make sure
that you do not confuse the bottom
and middle shelves as they are very
similar depths. Clamp this together
and leave to dry for several hours,
ensuring that the sides are perpendicular to the shelves.
When dry, you can glue the edging strips and the base strip onto the front of the
shelves, clamping in place again until dry.
At this point, you have the shell of the final TV cabinet in front of you, and very
little is needed to finish it off. Firstly, screw a piece of pine, 22 5/8 inches long, 2
inches wide and 3/4 inches thick to the bottom of the top shelf, at the back. This
piece of pine is used to fix the TV cabinet into the wall (using screws) when the
project is complete. The surface being screwed into the top shelf should be 3/4
inch wide.
If there is no need for a Cable box shelf, please skip the next section of this
project.
Cable Box Shelf
The construction of the cable box shelf is like a cut down version of the above
project. The shelf hangs from the top shelf, rather than being the full width of the
unit. Cut two pieces of pine, 14 1/2 inches long, 5 1/2 inches wide and 3/4 thick to
make the sides of the shelf. One end of each of these pieces should be shaped into
a curve in order to match the general curve of the cabinet under the top shelf.

Cut a groove into each of these side pieces - again, 1/2 inch wide and 3/8 inch
deep - for the shelf to slot into. This slot should be 1/2 inch from the lower edge of
each side piece. Cut a shelf out of the 1/2 inch plywood that is 13 inches wide, and
10 1/4 inches deep. Again, make a front edging piece for this shelf out of pine, as
described above, and then glue the pieces together.
To attach the cable box shelf to the rest of the unit, glue and screw the unit to the
underside of the top shelf, ensuring that the cable shelf is central. Do not worry
about the fact that the screws show on the top shelf as these will be covered by the
television.
Finishing Off
To finish off the project, sand the entire unit down ensuring that all the sharp edges
are neatly rounded off. Then wax the unit, as explained in the Finishes
Department.

Amateur Woodworker: Finishes
Finishes
This section describes ways to finish off your project, be it by waxing, varnishing
or whatever. As projects demand new types of finish, so this section will evolve. If
anyone has any suggestions for this section, please feel free to email them in. Any
suitable contributions will be added to this section, with a credit to the original
author.
Distressing Wood (Aging)
Filling wood grains with a paste wood filler
French Polishing
Oiling
Staining
Varnishing
Waxing
http://www.am-wood.com/finishes/finishes.html [11/3/2003 2:01:51 à«]

Distressing Wood
Old is hip and a seemingly important part of any project nowadays is the ability to
falsify its age. Distressing -- also known as antiquing -- is used to age
contemporary pieces and there are many variation on this theme. One of the more
extreme approaches is to throw the project into the sea and let it crash against the
beach for a few hours, if not days (it helps to tie it to something solid so that it
doesn't float away of course!). Below are a few of the more accessible ways to age
your projects. But, the best guide of all is to look at original antiques to try and
mimic the same marks and scratches. Having said that, do not try to fake the marks
with a chisel or knife as these will look false.
1. Nuts and bolts
Take a handful of nuts and bolts and put them in a canvas bag. Use this to strike
the wood, producing dents and bruises in the wood's surface. Make sure that you
hit the wood in a random fashion: do not plan out a hitting strategy first, as this
tends to result in a regular pattern. Concentrate on the edges of a table and on the
legs -- areas where the most wear and tear is likely to occur in old furniture.
2. Stain
Once distressed, smear the surface with a water-based stain. Take special care to
run the stain into all of the dents and bruises so that they will appear darker. Once
the stain is satisfactory, seal the wood using a shellac sealer. This will hold the
stain in.
3. Cup Rings
Old table tops typically suffer from cup rings. These are caused by mugs of
steaming-hot coffee being placed onto the wood, or by a film of alcohol on the
underside of a beer glass. To replicate such a mark, fill a round-based metal
container (such as a canned food tin) with hot water and wet its underside. Leave
this on the wooden surface for about ten minutes to produce a dark ring.
4. Dirt stains
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Mix alcohol and pigment with French polish and apply with a brush. Cover the
entire surface with this concoction and rub well into the wood to create a darker
finish. After this mixture has dried, apply a coat of clear polish. Once this has been
applied, buff the product using firstly a circular motion, but finishing with a
straight motion (with the grain). Stop short of creating the sheen that you would
usually want to make. Once this is done, rub 000 wire wool along the grain to dull
the polish a little more.
5. Paste Wax
Finally apply a coat of dark-colored paste wax to increase the aged appearance of
the piece.
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Filling wood grains with a paste

wood filler
By Mac Simmons
Some woods have an open grain that makes it difficult to

produce a smooth finish. To avoid this problem it is necessary to
apply what is known as a grain filler prior to the application of
wax or polish. In this article, Mac Simmons describes how to get
the best finish using paste fillers.
Open grain, closed grain
Take a look at your skin; the small holes you can see in it are
called pores. If you were to look at different species of woods
you will find that some woods have no pores (or "grains"), some
have small pores and others have larger pores. Woods with small
pores are known as "closed grain woods" while woods with
larger pores are classed as "open grained woods."
Piano Finish/Full Finish
Depending on the wood you are using and the type of finish you
are trying to achieve, you may have to fill the wood's grain to get
a satisfactory finish. Closed grain woods are normally not filled
and in some cases, neither are open grained woods. It really
depends upon the type of finish that you want. However, to
achieve a "Piano Finish" (or Full Finish) it is necessary to fill
these grains using a wood paste. A full finish is when the grains
of the wood are completely filled and then leveled with the
wood's surface, making the wood easier to finish with less coats
of wax (or whatever the final finish is). By filling the wood grain
you will save both time in finishing and money on your
materials, because when the grain is filled (and therefore the
filler and the wood's surface are smooth and level) you will use
less coats of the elected finish (wax, varnish or whatever).
http://www.am-wood.com/finishes/filler.html (1 of 3) [11/3/2003 2:02:18 à«]

Paste Wood Filler
Paste Wood Fillers are made up of various materials such as

Calcium Carbonate, Barium Hydroxide, Barlite, Silica and, in
the case of colored paste fillers, paste colorants are added for
colors. There are two different types of filler: Oil-based and
water-based fillers. Oil pastes have an alkyd added to the filler,
while water based fillers include a glycol. Oil type fillers take
longer to dry than water-based fillers and can be cleaned up
using Naptha (for water-based fillers, you can dilute or clean up
with water).
Colored Paste Wood Fillers
Paste wood fillers come in different colors and can be used to

either match the wood's natural colors, or as a contrasting color,
depending on the finish that you are trying to achieve. As well as
the colored pastes, you can also use a natural paste. This is
typically used on lighter colored woods and can also be mixed
with other oil-based fillers to make other colors. Further, you can
add universal colorants to the oil-based fillers (particularly the
natural filler) in order to more closely match the color that you
want. For water-based fillers you can add dry powder pigment to
make your own colors.
Applying the filler
Having chosen the type (and color) of filler, it is time to apply it

to the wood. The preferred technique used to apply the filler
varies depending on who you talk to. The filler can be applied
with a brush, spread out with a plastic scraper or a cloth.
Whichever application method you chose, you should apply the
filler with a circular motion in order to ensure that the filler is
successfully packed into the grain.
As you first apply the filler you will notice that the filler has a
glossy sheen that begins to dull after a few minutes. Once the
filler dulls it begins to harden. At this time, you should remove
the excess paste before the filler becomes too hard as it is very
difficult to remove then. Because of the limited time before the
paste dulls, it is important to work on a small area at a time.

To remove the excess filler, use a plastic scraper, an old towel or

a nylon scrubbing pad (experiment with all three to find one that
suits your style of working). Remember, the more filler you
leave on the wood, the harder it will be to sand off the wood
later.
It is best to practice on a scrap piece of open grained wood

before you try applying the paste for real. This will allow you to
get used to how the paste wood fillers really work without
risking your latest project. As well as testing the filler paste
application technique, take the time to sand off this scrap piece
of wood. This will allow you to test the final finish (wax or
whatever) to make sure that the end result is what you expect.
In many cases, depending on the size of the open grains and the
type of wood you are using, you will have to do two fillings in
order to get the filler level with the surface of the wood. Once
you have filled the grains and removed the excess filler, sand the
surface smooth and then clean up the surface with a tack cloth to
remove sawdust or other residue. You are now ready to either
stain the wood or apply your clear coating (varnish, wax and so
on). You can apply almost any type of finish, but if you have any
doubts, consult the manufacturer of the paste.

French Polishing
By Mac Simmons
French polishing is one of the classic finishes for wood.

Although French polishing came to the fore in the late 19th
century, the underlying premise of using shellac has been used
for nearly 4000 years. In this article we offer advice on one
particular French polishing technique, although there are
certainly many variations.
Shellac is sold as a ready to use coating in most paint and home

improvement stores and is usually sold as either a clear (blond)
or amber (orange) color. These ready to use variations come pre-
mixed with Denatured Alcohol. It is also possible to purchase
"pure" shellac flakes that you can mix yourself. The advantage
of this latter approach is that it has a longer shelf life than the
premixed variations as once the alcohol and flakes are mixed
together the wax has life-span of about 12 months (depending on
the temperature).
The "pure" Shellac flakes

come in various types of Where it comes from...
flake and, as standard
contains a natural wax. Shellac resins come from the
However, while the Coccus Lacca bug, indigenous to
inclusion of this wax can Thailand and India, and are
make sanding easier, in actually the insect's resinous
some cases the shellac secretions. Ironically, for a finish
does not adhere to the that has such as dubious start in
wood surface too well. life, Shellac has many applications
To address this issue, you in today's world. The resin
can also buy a de-waxed provides a non-toxic, thermoplastic
version of some Shellacs. coating that is approved by the
food and drug industries as a
When mixing - or buying coating on fruits (where the resin
- shellac you should look prevents molds and spores) and
for the number of "cuts." drugs (where it acts as a slow
Each pound of Shellac release enteric coating on many of
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flakes that is added to today's medicines. The Shellac has

one gallon of Denatured excellent adhesive properties and
Alcohol equates to one can be polished to a high gloss or
pound cut. So, for rubbed out to a satin or flat sheen
example, if you were to as desired.
dissolve three pounds of
flakes into one gallon of
Denatured Alcohol, the result would be a three-pound cut.
Normally Shellac is not used over a three pound cut, but some
manufacturers sell "ready to use" four or five pound cuts. These
should be reduced to a three pound cut (or less) before
application. Note: if you are spraying the Shellac you should
typically use a two pound cut, but do so at your own discretion
having consulted the instructions proved with your spray
equipment.
Applying the base coat
When first learning the art of French polishing, we recommend

that you use a ready for use Shellac. You will also need to buy a
bottle of Denatured Alcohol and a good paintbrush, as it will be
necessary to brush on three thin coats of Shellac. Most ready to
use Shellacs are three-pound cuts and you should reduce this
down to two lots of 1 1/2 pound cut by doubling the amount of
Denatured Alcohol.
To begin the process, use the brush to apply the Shellac to the
wood ensuring that you apply a good even coat to the entire
surface. This first thin coat (the "spit" coat) will dry very quickly
under most conditions. [Note: If it does not dry within an hour
then the Shellac is probably bad and should be replaced. In this
situation, remove the sticky Shellac surface by applying more
Denatured Alcohol.]
Once the first coat of Shellac is dry, apply a second coat. Then,
once this is dry apply the third coat. Once you have added all
three coats, leave the Shellac to dry overnight. The next day, use
a 600 wet and dry sandpaper to smooth out the Shellac and then
wipe off the sanding dust with a tack cloth. You now have your
base coat for the French polishing.
Preparing the polishing pad

Mixing the French polish used within the pad comes down to an
individual's choice. When first learning we recommend that you
continue to use the 1 1/2-pound cut that we used to created the
base coat above. However, as you become more proficient at this
technique you may wish to experiment with lesser and greater
cuts.
Take a soft, lint free cloth - such as cheesecloth - and fold it into
a ball (called the "pad" or "rubber." Now apply the Shellac to the
pad so that it is moist, but not dripping, with Shellac. Tap the
pad in the palm of your hand in order to disperse the Shellac; the
aim is to make sure that the entire front of the pad is damp. We
recommend that you consider wearing surgical-type rubber
gloves before beginning this process as it can be quite messy.
French Polishing
The best way to comprehend the act of French polishing is to

imagine that the wood's surface (with the base coat on it) is an
airport landing field and that the pad is a plane. What you are
going to do is to practice allowing the plane (the pad) to touch
down on the field and then immediately take off again, without
stopping or even slowing down (if you were to stop you would
damage the base coat). As you "land" slide the pad across the
wood's surface and then take off again, working from left to right
and then from right to left, overlapping each stroke as you apply
it. Slowly work up from the bottom to the top and then start at
the bottom again, ensuring that you have enough Shellac on the
pad so that the strokes are uniform. You can add a little lemon
oil or cream polish to the pad to help make it slide easier
(although you should be very sparing with the oil).
Once you are satisfied with the wood's finish place the pad in a
jar and close the lid tightly. Allow the Shellac to dry for at least a
couple of hours and then take out the pad again. Add Denatured
Alcohol to the pad and tap it in the palm of your hand to disperse
the alcohol to the front of the pad. Then lightly pad over the
wood's surface again. This process is known as "spiriting out"
and serves to remove the oil as well as further evening out the
Shellac finish. The result will be a far glossier, smoother finish.

Oil Finishes
The oil finish is one of the most traditional approaches to completing your project.
While it does not provide as much protection as more modern finishes such as
varnishing, oil finishes bring out the natural beauty of the wood better. If you want
to stain the wood prior to oiling it, use a water-based stain as oil-based dyes will
clog-up the wood's pores, thus stopping the oil finish from soaking in effectively.
Safety Note: Never leave an oily cloth rolled up. As the oil oxidizes it
generates heat and it is not unusual for the cloth to spontaneously combust.
Even if you intend to throw the used cloths away, you must first allow them to
dry, unrolled, outside.
There are four main types of oil covered below: linseed, Danish, teak and mineral.
We also include a reader review of Organoil.
Linseed Oil
A linseed finish takes a considerable amount of time to dry and new wood will
need several coats in order to produce a satisfactory finish. Boiled linseed oil takes
"only" one day to dry and, as such, is a more popular option. Pure linseed oil takes
about three days to dry, but provides better protection. Neither type of linseed oil
is suitable for outdoor projects.
Apply the oil with a cloth and rub well into the wood. Leave at least 24 hours
between applications. Once you are satisfied with the finish, buff with a soft cloth.
Danish and Teak Oils
Danish and Teak oils take less time to dry than linseed (thank goodness) and also
provide a more resilient finish. Both oils are better suited to new projects than
linseed, and it is best to relegate linseed to the older projects that already have
linseed on them. Teak oil provides a slight surface sheen while Danish oil leaves a
low luster.
Apply these oils with a soft cloth of brush and do not apply too much oil at a time
(as it will not soak in). In between coats of oil, sand the wood down with a fine
silicon-carbide paper. Typically, it is best to use four coats of oil.
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Mineral Oil
Mineral oil is a laxative that is readily available from any chemist. Although this
will not provide the same level of sheen as the above oils, it is ideal for projects
such as cutting boards when you need a non-toxic substance.
Organoil
The below feature on Organoil was contributed by Gregory McGrath, Bunbury,
Australia.
Organoil is a specially formulated finish made from pure plant oils and a highly-
refined white beeswax. The underlying foundation of the product is Tung Oil.
I discovered this product at a timber and woodworking show in Perth, Western

Australia. It is the type of finishing process that appeals to me as it is easy to apply
to large projects. What is more, the process is not too time sensitive and can be
completed over several days at your own leisure.
The added benefit of using this particular product is the rich, sweet aroma that fills
your workshop while you are working. It smells wonderful and the finished wood
presents a wet look, highlighting the wood's natural patterns and grains. The oil
penetrates deeply into the wood, enhancing its natural color. This process is
especially suited to grain- and character-enriched timbers. I have used it with
impressive results on Sheoak, Blond, Pink and Red Jarrah to date. The oil finish
also allows the wood to age and darken naturally over time.
Application
The oil is applied through a technique known as wet-on-wet burnishing. This

technique requires the wood to be sanded down through the various degrees of
smoothness until you reduce the grit down to 600 or 800 grit wet and dry
sandpaper. At this stage the wood begins to show a slight lustre. Don't lose the
extra fine sawdust from the last piece of sandpaper that you used as this will serve
as a fine filler when you apply the oil.
Apply the oil to the wood surface, allowing to soak in for a few minutes. Then,
using the last piece of fine sandpaper (which has the extra fine sawdust in it still)

start to massage (or burnish) the oil into the wood's surface. If the surface becomes
too dry, add more oil. Once the entire surface has been oiled, the wood should
have a satin finish. At this point you can apply a Natural Wax Oilish to bring the
surface to a lustre. Do not add a second finish until the wood's surface is
completely dry.
Alternatively, continue sanding the surface with 1200 grit paper, adding more oil
as needed. Two or three sanding/oil combinations may be needed to arrive at the
ultimate finish.

Wood stains
Choosing a wood stain
Water Stains
Oil Dyes
Alcohol Stains
Pigment Stains
Wax Stains
Introduction
Wood stains should be used to enhance to natural color of a wood, rather than to
try and hide or obliterate it. If the latter is your goal then the best bet is to use
paint, not stain. There are various types of stain and choosing the right one can
appear to be a rather confusing decision. However, what it really boils down to is
the following:
● it should be easy to apply

● must be compatible with the finish you have in mind
● must dry within a reasonable amount of time
● should maintain its color without fading
Most wood stains are designed to soak into the wood, but there are exceptions to
this rule. Most notably, external wood stains form a thin film on the surface -- not
unlike paint -- in order to protect the wood. This is why most stains that you'll find
your local store are classified as indoor stains, not outdoor ones. However, many
indoor stains are suitable for use outside as long as the wood is subsequently
protected by several layers of varnish.
Water Stains
Water stains come as a powder that must be mixed with water. These are the
cheapest of all stains but are not typically available in the large home improvement
stores. Instead, you will probably have to buy them through a mail order finishing
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supplier. These stains are only supplied in a few colors -- Vandyke crystals
(brown), mahogany (warm brown) and nigrosine (black) -- are the most common.
To attain the particular color that you need it will be necessary to mix these three
together. To change the depth of the color, adjust the powder to water ratio.
Applying a water stain
Apply the stain to the wood with a cloth or paint brush. A brush is best if you are
staining carvings, moldings or any other irregularly-shaped item. However, a cloth
holds more stain and, for flat surfaces, is much easier to use. Before applying the
first layer of stain, lightly wet the wood. This will help to produce an even spread
of the stain. Make sure that you have enough for the whole job: it is far better to
throw away the excess than it is to try and match the previous batch's color
precisely.
Don't pour the stain on, but be very generous its application. Water stains dry very
slowly, so you should rub-off the excess stain using a paper towel or a lint-free
cloth. Once the stain has dried, apply more stain to any areas that have become too
light. Note: water stains appear to dry in about 40 minutes but a second coat
should not be applied for at least 12 hours.
Oil Dyes
Oil dyes usually come ready mixed and are classified by the type of wood they
most closely match (such as oak, mahogany and so on). These color names should
be used as a rough guide only and should not stop you from experimenting. For
example, the bird table (Vol. I, Issue 8) was stained with a cherry-based color,
even though it was made out of pine, thus giving it a deep red color more in
keeping with its new habitat.
To lighten the color of a particular dye, thin it out using an appropriate solvent. Oil
dyes are well suited to outdoor applications as they take an average time to dry
(between 30 -40 minutes); water stains dry too slowly and alcohol stains dry too
quickly for large applications.
Applying an oil dye
Oil dyes can bite deeply into uneven grain, such as is found with beech, and this
can produce an uneven, patchy finish. To overcome this problem it is imperative
that the wood be prepared carefully and is well sanded. Oil dyes can be applied

using a brush or a cloth.
Alcohol Stains
Alcohol-based stains are the choice of most professional woodworkers because of

the wide range of colors available. They are sold in powder form and must be
mixed to the right color. Because they are alcohol-based, these stains can also be
mixed with shellac polish for color matching and minor touch-ups during the
polishing process.
Alcohol stains dry very quickly (typically in about five minutes) and are therefore
ideally suited to spray application. However, the fact that they dry so quickly can
also cause problems and a patchy finish is not unknown.
Applying an alcohol-based stain
As mentioned above, the best way of applying this stain is to use a spray gun.
Apply the stain sparingly, or the dye will be removed by the polish. You can also
dip with alcohol stains, ie put the object into the container of stain. The best
approach to this is to dip the object in and leave immersed for about five minutes.
Whichever application method you decide to use, it is a good idea to add a little
transparent French polish to the mix as this will help to adhere the stain to the
wood.
Pigment Stains
This type of stain is made from finely ground pigments. These do not dissolve as
dyes do. Pigment stains add a semi-opaque color to the wood and are best used to
disguise the original look and feel of the wood (such as on low-grade lumber).
Applying a Pigment Stain
Apply the stain with a cloth or brush and be very liberal with the amount of stain
applied. However, once the entire surface has been coated, wipe off any excess
stain with a soft lint-free cloth. Otherwise the end result may be patchy.

Wax Stains
Wax stains are essentially a ready-made mix of finishing wax and a particular
stain. One very popular wax stain is an "antique" pine wax. Because this is a wax
stain it cannot be used under any other type of finish, such as a shellac. Think of
the wax stain as being a short-cut solution, combining the stain and waxing
process into one. As such, it is not as good a solution as using a separate stain and
wax or shellac. Once you have applied a wax stain, there really is no going back:
sanding down the waxed surface (in order to remove the layer of wax) is not
recommended as the wax simply clogs-up the sand paper. Therefore, these stains
should only be used in extreme cases when you really cannot use another product.
Applying a wax stain
Apply the wax stain as you would a normal finish coat of wax (see Wax option in
Finishes Department).

Varnishing
Varnishing is the perfect finish for outdoor projects. When selecting the varnish,
ensure that the one you pick is suitable for outdoor use, even if the project in
question is actually for a bathroom or kitchen. This is important as it is necessary
to choose a waterproof varnish for most projects. Marine-type varnish is usually
the best choice as if it is good enough for a boat, it will certainly suffice for the
more mundane outdoor projects.
Before applying the varnish, use white spirit to clean to wooden surfaces. Use this
sparingly on a clean cloth, and then wait 30 minutes to allow the wood to dry.
The trick with varnishing is to apply very thin coats, and many of them. If the
varnish is applied too thickly, it will not dry correctly and will look odd. Also,
make sure that the workshop is not too cold (or hot) for the application of the
varnish as this will also ruin a perfectly good project. To find the correct
temperature range, consult the instructions on the side of the varnish tin.
Before applying a second or third layer of varnish (we recommend at least three
layers), lightly sand the previous layer of varnish. For this you should use very fine
sandpaper as the idea is to roughen the previous layer, not remove it completely.
The reason for doing this is to create a surface that allows the new layer of varnish
to bond correctly -- smooth, gloss surfaces will not bond too well.
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Waxing
One of the nicest finishes for your projects is beeswax. This finish is ideal for any
indoor project and has the great advantage of allowing the wood to nicely darken
with age.
Waxing should not be used for any project that requires a degree of water
resistance, such as for kitchen or bathroom related projects. Instead, varnishing
should be used here.
Beeswax is available at almost any hardware store and is simple to apply.

However, it is often a good idea to seal the wood prior to waxing, especially on
softer woods such as pine.
To seal the wood correctly you should use a pre-wax sealant. Again, this should be
sold in most hardware stores. Once you have rubbed a coating of sealer onto the
wood, allow it to dry for 30 minutes. Then, use wire wool to lightly work over the
entire surface to roughen it slightly.
Once this is done, you may add the wax. Apply the wax to the wood using a lint-
free cloth, and leave to dry for at least 15 minutes. Then buff the wood, using a
clean cloth, until a suitable shine is achieved. It is recommended that at least two
applications of wax are used, even though many waxes claim that only one is
required. The result will be a far better finish that will last far longer.
Note: Waxed surfaces will need to be re-waxed every now and then (typically
once every six months), in order to maintain the true finish.
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Amateur Woodworker: Joints
Joints
This section describes in detail all of the joints used in current and past projects.
As projects require new methods of joining wood, this section will be expanded. If
anyone has any suggestions for this section, please feel free to email them in. Any
suitable contributions will be added to this section, with a credit to the original
author.
Dowel Joints
Slotted Tenon Joints
Routed Dovetail Joints
Handmade Dovetail Joints
Tenon and Mortise Joints
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Dowel Joints
Dowel joints are one of the easiest - and cheapest - methods of fastening two
pieces of wood together. The technique is ideal for joining two flat pieces together
to form a larger flat surface (as used in the TV cabinet project).
Construction
Take two pieces of equal length wood. Decide now which side will be the top and
which the bottom for each piece and mark the top side of each so that you do not
forget.
Clamp both pieces together, one on top of the other,

with the bottoms face to face in the middle. When
clamping, ensure that the two surfaces along which
you plan to join these pieces of wood are level with
each other (see diagram one).
Draw a line down the middle of each surface to be joined. This must be exactly the
same on both pieces of wood, otherwise when they are joined there will be a step
at the join. Once this line has been drawn, using a set square mark lines across the
grain of the wood (see second diagram). The intersection of the length and width
lines show where the dowel holes will be drawn. There is no hard and fast rule for
how many dowels should be used. However, the heavier the weight of whatever
will be on the surface, the more dowels should be used. Typically, one dowel per
foot is a good rule (with a minimum of two).
Once these lines have been drawn you can then proceed to drill
the holes at the marked intersections. The drill bit used should
match the diameter of the dowel being used, thus ensuring a
tight fit. As for the dowel itself, you can either make your own
small dowels from a longer length, or you can buy dowel made
specifically for this reason. The latter option is a far better solution, as the small
dowels are beveled at the ends to make it easier to but them in the holes, and are
ribbed to allow the glue to bond more efficiently. Each hole should be just over
half as deep as the length of the dowel being used.
Once the holes have been drilled, glue one end of each dowel into the holes in the
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first piece of wood. Then place glue along the full length of the second piece,
ensuring that some glue falls into each of the holes.
Unclamp the two pieces and push them together, ensuring that the two top
markings are facing up. Once done, clamp tightly overnight. Be careful when you
clamp them to make sure that both pieces remain flat and do not try and warp
upwards. To avoid this, it may be necessary to clamp the entire piece down to a
flat surface.
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Slotted Tenon Joints

Slotted Tenon joints are typically used as a method of fixing shelving into a unit's
shelf walls. However, it can also be used for a number of other purposes.
The idea of a Slotted Tenon joint is that only one of

the two pieces of wood needs to be modified in order
to attain a good, tight fit. To do this, one piece has a
slot made into it that is the same width as the
thickness of the second piece of wood. This latter
piece of wood can then be pushed into the groove,
making a strong, right-angled join.
The most effective way of creating the groove (or slot) is to use a router. Although
a chisel can be used, the quality of finish will not be the same (and it takes far
longer to make).
Be careful when making the slot to ensure that it is not too wide, otherwise the
joint will not be tight enough to work. It is far better to start with too tight a groove
and widen it.
A router is not always the best tool to use however. If the groove is to hold a piece
of 1/4 inch (or smaller) plywood, you should use a circular saw instead, changing
the depth of cut to as little as 1/4 inch. This smaller cut is ideal when making the
joint for a back panel of a cabinet, such as a bedside cabinet.
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Dovetail Joints
The dovetail joint is possibly the best joint that you can use to join two pieces of
wood together at a right angle. Not only is it a very strong joint, but it also adds to
the appeal of the woodworking project. Even better; everyone "knows" that a
dovetail joint is hard to do, and so people will be even more impressed with your
handiwork!
While creating a traditional dovetail joint is not too difficult, it does take quite a
long time; using a router speeds up this process considerably. The purists among
you should stop reading now as you will not like this method at all...sorry!
The simplest way to create dovetail joints is to use a

router and a dovetail template jig. The latter is
available from any good home improvement store
and can cost as little as $70. It's well worth the
investment if you plan on doing many dovetail
joints in the future.
Arrange the three pieces of the drawer or box as

shown in the first diagram and mark the inside and outside of each piece. In
addition, mark the ends of each piece as it is imperative that when cutting the
dovetails the correct two ends are cut at one go.
Clamp the front of the drawer and one side into the
dovetail machine as follows: the left side of the drawer
should be clamped under the front clamp (pointing
upwards towards the template) with the inside of the
drawer pointing out; the front of the drawer - again with
the inside pointing out -should be clamped under the top
clamp so that it butts up against the left drawer (see the
second diagram). These two pieces should be staggered
slightly, rather than being aligned exactly. The precise
measurement will depend upon the particular dovetail
machine that you are using, and this distance will be supplied with its manual.
However, it should be roughly in the region of 7/16 inch.
Once everything is tightly clamped in place, use the router to cut around the
template, following the direction of the arrows in diagram two.
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Once this is complete, the end result should look like

diagram three. Dovetail A should be matched with slot
B and so on.
It is well worth practicing with scrap wood before

trying the above procedure on any project as it will
take a while to get the exact measurements (such as the
depth of the router cut) perfect.
If the joint is too loose, slightly increase the depth of the router cut. If the joint is
too tight (remember that you still have to squeeze some glue into the joint),
slightly decrease the depth of the cut.

Dovetail Joints (Manual)

In addition to the router-based method of creating dovetails, it is also possible to
make these manually. The common misconception about dovetail joints is that
they are very hard to make. They are not. However, making manual dovetails does
take a considerable amount of time and patience when compared to the router-
based method, although the satisfaction level is higher too!
The optimum slope of a dovetail joint depends upon the type of wood you are
using. Softwoods should have a slope ration of 1 in 6, while hardwoods should
have a 1 in 8 angle: that is one "unit" in from the side for every 8 units along the
length of the wood. It is worth making a dovetail template to each of these
proportions if you intend to make a number of dovetail joints. Not only will it
speed the process up somewhat, but it will also ensure a uniformity between the
joints.
1. Set the marker gauge to the thickness of the Tail wood, and mark this thickness
all around the Socket piece. Then set the gauge to the thickness of the Socket
wood, and mark all around the Tail piece.
2. On the end of the Tail wood, draw a line

across the end that is half the thickness of the
socket wood. For example, if the Socket
wood is 1" thick, this line will be drawn 1/2"
in from the end of the Tail piece. Repeat this
for the other end of the tail piece as well, so
that you have a matching line.
3. Measure the distance between these two

lines and subtract 1/4" for each pin, less one.
For example, if you plan to have six pins, and
the distance between the two end lines is 7 1/4", subtract FIVE (ie six, less one)
1/4" gaps. The result is 6". Then, divide this number by the number of pins that
you want (in this case six) to ascertain the size of each tail (in this case 1"). So,
what we now have is six pins, each 1" wide, with a gap of 1/4" in between each
one.

4. Once these end lines have all been draw out, mark
out the tail slopes (at either a 1 in 8 or 1 in 6 ratio,
depending on the wood used).
5. Saw out the tails. To do this, clamp the wood

vertically, and at a slight angle so that the saw cut is
vertical, rather than the wood itself. This makes cutting
the desired angle far easier. If the saw cut moves
slightly away from the desired angle, do not worry too
much. Continue along the new line as it is more
important to have smooth joints than it is to have them absolutely identical.
6. One the tails have been cut out, clamp the Socket
piece vertically in a vice. Then, using the Tail wood as
a template, mark out the shape of the Socket pins on
the end of the Socket wood. Once this is done (and it
must be very accurate), draw these lines down to the
thickness line done in step 1.
7. Cut out the Socket pins,

being very careful not to
cut beyond the line. It is
better to err on the side of caution, cutting just in the
waster wood, and then neaten up the cut line with a
chisel later. Once you cut into the good side of the
joint (ie not the waste) then the joint won't work well.
8. Once the pins have been cut out it is time to glue the
two pieces together. Before you do this, however,
gently push the two pieces together and make any
minor adjustments to the joint. Note that the joint should be very stiff and it is not
advisable to push the joint completely together until you are ready to glue.

Tenon and Mortise Joint

A tenon and mortise joint is one of the classic joints that
every self-respecting woodworker should know. It is the
fundamental joint that has provided the basis of more recent
joints such as the finger joint. When reading the below
explanation, keep in mind that the Tenon is the piece of wood
that slots inside of the mortise (which has a hole cut into it
that matches the size of the tenon).
1. Calculate the size of the tenon joint. The size of the tenon
is the same as the width (not depth) of the mortise wood. So,
if the mortise is 2" wide, the tenon will be 2" long. Mark all
around the tenon.
2. Calculate the width of the mortise. As above, this hole is relational to the size of
the tenon wood. If the tenon wood is 2" wide, then the mortise will be 2" long.
3. Mark out the width of the mortise. The width of the mortise is calculated as
being 1/3 of the wood's thickness. Use a mortise gauge to mark both sides of this
hole. Then, use this same measurement to mark the thickness of the tenon piece,
thus reducing the risk of introducing an error.
4. Once both pieces are marked out to your

satisfaction, it is time to begin the cutting process. Use
a tenon saw (obviously!) to cut the waste away from
both sides of the tenon. Be very careful that you do not
cut into the tenon itself. Although it is tempting to cut
straight down into the tenon, a safer way is to cut at a
45 degree angle, as shown in the diagram, before
finally cutting in a horizontal manner. Doing this
reduces the risk of cutting into the tenon on the side
furthest away from you (see diagram).
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5. Cutting the mortise requires a little more delicacy. Start in the

middle of the mortise and cut down with the chisel about 1/4".
Then, move the chisel backwards about 1/8" and repeat the
process; and so on. Do not move back all the way to the end of
the mortise, but instead leave about 1/8" untouched at either end.
Once you have done the entire length of the mortise, scrape out
the loosened waste wood. Then begin again, cutting down
another 1/4" and so on. Once you are down to just over half-way
down into the joint, turn the wood over and start in from the other
side.
6. Once the hole is made, clean up both ends, cutting back that extra 1/8".
7. Finally, glue the tenon into the mortise. If the fit is less than perfect, use small
wedges to make it more solid (see diagram).
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Amateur Woodworker: Tools
Glossary of Tools
This section describes the power tools that are commonly used by amateur
woodworkers, as well as those that may be considered in the future. Each tool
description attempts to explain what you should look for when you buy a tools, the
variations you may discover and the basic operation of the tools. However, these
explanations are not a replacement for the operating manual that you get with the
power tools.
Sanders Saws Miscellaneous
Belt sander Band saw Power Drills

Finishing/Random Bayonet Saw Routers
Orbit sander Circular Saw
Profile sander Compound Miter Saw
Scroll Saw
Table saw
Always wear ear defenders and eye protectors when using power tools
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Power Tools: Belt Sander
Belt Sander
Approximate Cost
$130 upwards
Description
Belt sanders are used to remove large amounts of wood in order to roughly sand the wood to shape. For
example, if the wood in question has small ridges in it, a belt sander can be used to flatten these out. An
extreme case of how the belt sander can be used to shape wood can be seen in the June 1997 issue when
a belt sander was used to round off the front of the bedside cabinets into a smooth curve.
It is important to note that a belt sander is an intermediate step in the finishing process. Once you have
roughly sanded the wood to shape with the belt sander you will still need to use an orbital or palm grip
sander to get a smooth finish.
It is worth considering the following when purchasing a belt sander:
● A variable speed option is worth considering as it provides more accurate control of the sanding
process.
● Belt sanders produce a lot of sawdust and so it is advisable to purchase a belt sander that comes
with a dust collection bag.
● It is sometimes useful to clamp a belt sander upside down in a vise. This allows you to hold the
wood, not the sander, which is necessary when sanding some shapes. Not all sanders will be
suitable for this application as some will not be clampable. Those that are clampable should come
with specific clamps (as an optional extra).
● Make sure that you buy a "standard" sized belt sander. The belts come in several shapes and you
should make sure that you can buy belts from several stores before purchasing your chosen
model. The standard size from home improvement enthusiasts appears to be the 21" x 3" belt.
Using the belt sander
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Power Tools: Belt Sander
If misused, belt sanders can cause serious injuries. While this is true for most power tools, we feel that it
worth stating explicitly here. Many people do not think that belt sanders can cause injury because their
experience has been with orbital sanders. Nothing could be further from the truth. Belt sanders use very
coarse sand paper at high speeds and will easier tear through your skin. These sanders should therefore
be treated with the same caution and respect as a circular saw.
To use the belt sander, first hold the sander away from the work and start the motor. Once the sander has
reached its full speed, lower it onto the work with a slight forward motion. The main handle (at the back)
is used to control the sander while the front auxiliary handle is used to guide it. When placing the sander
on the work, let the rear roller make contact first, bringing the rest of the base into contact with the work
as you begin to move the sander forwards.
The sander should be moved back and forth parallel to the grain of the wood. Do not let the sander stay
in one place as this will cause an uneven surface. Short, overlapping strokes produce the best results.
Avoid tilting the sander sideways as the belt edge can easily cut into the wood. Further, do not apply
excessive pressure to the sander; the weight of the sander is usually enough to efficiently sand the wood.
Use a coarse grit belt for most of the sanding, followed by a finer grit and then finish off by using an
orbital or palm grip sander.
Never change a sanding belt when the belt sander is still plugged in.
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Power Tools: Finishing & Random Orbit Sanders
Finishing & Random Orbit Sanders

Approximate Cost
Finishing Sanders: $40 upwards

Random Orbit Sanders: $70 upwards
Description
Finishing sanders come in two main types: block sanders and random orbit. Although either tools can be
used as a finishing sander, they excel at different applications. Random orbit sanders are better for
sanding large areas quickly. However, finishing/block sanders provide a better finish while also have the
obvious advantage of being able to get closer into the corner as they do not have a circular base like
orbital sanders.
Further, block sanders can use standard sandpaper that you cut down to shape, while random orbit
sanders need specific circular sheets and this can make the running cost higher. If you only have the
money for one of these sanders, we recommend a block/finishing sander. While it will take longer to get
a good finish, the end result will be far better.
When purchasing a sander consider the following:
● How rapidly does the sander vibrate. This measurement is often in orbits per minute (OPM). The
faster it vibrates, the quicker it will sand.
● Some sanders offer a variable speed option and this is worth considering as long as the price
differential is low.
● Do not be overly concerned about the dust collection system. Many of these do not work very
well anyway.
● If you do want a dust collection system, ensure that your sander comes with a hole punch system
so that you can easily punch dust holes in standard sandpaper, rather than having to buy special
paper (this only applies to block sanders -- orbital sanders require special paper anyway).
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Power Tools: Finishing & Random Orbit Sanders
Using the sander
The normal weight of the sander is sufficient to sand and there is no need to exert extra pressure.
Contrary to popular belief, additional pressure is detrimental to efficient sanding as it slows the speed of
the pad.
Finishing sanders cause thousands of small abrasive grits to move in circular obits against the wood at a
high speed. Each grain moves in the same direction, ensuring that the cutting action is uniform over the
whole area. You should try to cover each part of the wood from many different directions to ensure that
you get an even finish that does not have a bias towards movement in one particular direction.
Begin the sanding process with a relatively coarse paper (the coarseness will depend on how much
sanding there is to do) and then move down to finer paper. Do not go from a coarse paper straight to a
fine one, but step through the various grades. Too great a step will mean that you cannot sand out the
"swirls" caused by the coarser paper.
Successful sanding is a result of patience and perseverance. The more time you spend on this step, the
happier you will be with the final result.
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Power Tools: Profile Sanders
Profile Sanders
Approximate Cost
$110 upwards
Description
Profile sanders are a fairly recent invention and are all the more appreciated
for that reason. Profile sanders can be used for sanding in tight corners, or along grooves or ruts. A good
profile sander comes with an assortment of different sanding shapes -- known as profiles -- that can be
attached, not just the standard triangular profile.
The available profiles can be classed in three categories: convex, concave and angled profiles. As the
name suggests concave profiles are used to sand concave surfaces. Angled profiles are available in a
number of different angles (typically 30, 45, 60 and 90 degree angles) and are used for sanding the
bottom and sides of slots or grooves.
When purchasing a sander consider the following:
● How many profile bits does the sander come with? Although you can buy these later, it is worth
considering where you are going to store them. An all-in-one kit is a tempting consideration and
probably works out to be cheaper than buying the profiles later.
● How rapidly does the sander vibrate. This measurement is often in orbits per minute (OPM). The
faster the profile sander vibrates, the quicker it will sand.
● Do not be overly concerned about the dust collection system. Many of these do not work very
well anyway and profile sanders are not typically used on large surfaces and so do not generate
too much dust.
Using the profile sander
Operation of the profile sander is the same as for a standard finishing sander. The obvious difference is
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Power Tools: Profile Sanders
that you must select the correct profile bit prior to its operation.
The normal weight of the sander is sufficient to sand and there is no need to exert extra pressure.
Contrary to popular belief, additional pressure is detrimental to efficient sanding as it slows the speed of
the pad.
Finishing sanders cause thousands of small abrasive grits to move against the wood at a high speed. Each
grain moves in the same direction at a constant speed, ensuring that the cutting action is uniform over the
whole area.
Begin the sanding process with a relatively coarse paper (the coarseness will depend on how much
sanding there is to do) and then move down to finer paper. Do not jump from a coarse paper straight to a
fine one, but step through the various grades. Too great a step will mean that you cannot sand out the
"swirls" caused by the coarser paper.
Successful sanding is a result of patience and perseverance. The more time you spend on this step, the
happier you will be with the final result.
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Power Tools: Band Saw
Band Saw
Approximate Cost
$200 upwards
Description
The band saw has developed a reputation as being the saw of choice whenever you
need to cut a curve. In many respects, you can view it as a grown-up bayonet saw.
However, to say that the band saw is only suitable for curve cutting is to typecast a
very versatile saw. The band saw is capable of performing a whole range of cuts,
such as ripping, cross cutting, beveled cuts and, yes, curves. The band saw is also capable of re-cutting --
cutting a thick board into several thinner boards.
What makes the band saw even better is that it is a relatively safe saw. Only a small portion of the blade
is visible -- the rest is hidden away in the machine's casing -- and the blade cuts downwards, pushing the
wood onto the base rather than pulling against it.
The band saw is named after its saw blade, which is a continuous steel loop with teeth along one edge.
Various widths of blade are available -- typically from 1/8" to 3/8" or even wider. The thinner blades are
better for cutting curves, although they are more likely to break. The wider blades are preferred for
cutting straight lines.
When buying a band saw, consider the following:
● Does the table's base tilt to allow bevels to be cut?
● How great is the distance between the blade and the arm of the band saw? This distance is
important as it limits width of plank that can be cut. The minimum distance is 10", but the bigger
the gap, the less likely you are to outgrow the saw.
● What is the maximum depth of cut?
● What size of bands does the band saw take? There are several different sizes and you should make
sure that you can buy the bands from several sources to ensure that you do not get locked in to
one vendor.
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● Does the band saw come with a guide fence and/or a miter gauge? These are useful additions that
you will end up purchasing at some point soon after you buy the band saw and it is usually
cheaper to buy them with the saw.
Using the band saw
The band saw can be used for cutting both curves and straight cuts. For all cuts, you should set the blade
guard to a height that is just more than the height of the wood. Leaving too great a gap between the wood
and the blade guard will lead to the blade meandering.
Cutting curves
Mark out the line of the curve that you wish to cut along. Feed the wood through the blade slowly,
without forcing the wood against the blade. Let it push through gently. Cut slightly on the waste side of
the line.
If the blade begins to bind against the wood (i.e. slows down) do not stop cutting. The binding is caused
by trying to cut too tight a curve. Make the cut more gentle by running out through the waste wood and
then, once you have cut through to the edge, begin again. In this way, you can cut out the "flowing"
curve by making a number of more shallow cuts, rather than one long cut.
Of course, the above technique assumes that the cut you are trying to make is
convex. If you are cutting a concave curve, you cannot run out through the
waste. The best approach here is to make a number of straight cuts through
the waste wood to the edge of the line, prior to beginning the curved cut (see
diagram). That way, as you cut the curve, the waste wood will fall away in
sections, reducing the risk of binding.
If the above technique is unsuccessful and the blade binds, switch off the power and slowly ease the
blade out of the work. Then begin again.
Ripping wood
Before beginning to rip the wood, make sure that the tension of the blade is correct. Further, ensure that
the blade guides are set correctly and that the blade is sharp. If any of these factors are not correctly set,
the blade will have a tendency to meander, rather than cutting straight.
To rip the wood, use a rip fence and gently push the wood through, applying pressure that will gently
move the wood through the blade while also keeping the wood firmly against the rip fence (pushing at a
45 degree angle to the forward direction works best so that the pressure is evenly distributed between
forwards and the rip fence).

Always keep your hands clear of the blade when coming to the end of the rip.

Power Tools: Bayonet Saw
Bayonet Saw
Approximate Cost
$90 upwards
Description
The bayonet saw (also known as a jigsaw) is one of the most versatile saws
you will ever own. It takes the place of a band saw, a scroll saw and even
(to a more limited extent) a circular saw. As such, it is typically the first
power saw you should consider buying.
Indeed, some bayonet saws can be fitted into a stand that allow you to fix the bayonet saw upside down
onto a bench. This allows you to push the wood over the bayonet saw (rather than the more usual
technique of pushing the bayonet saw over the wood) just like you would with a band saw.
The major limitations with a bayonet saw are the ability to cut in a straight line (see below for advice)
and the thickness of cut. Really, anything thicker than about 1 1/2" is too thick for most bayonet saws.
When buying a bayonet saw you should consider the following:
● When holding the bayonet saw, how easy is it to see the point at which the blade meets the wood?
This is of great importance as without a clear view you will not be able to cut accurately.
● How is the blade held in alignment with the base? Some manufacturers use disposable plastic
guides, while others use solid metal (adjustable) guides. The metal guides are, in our opinion, far
better at keeping the blade in the correct alignment.
● A variable speed control is worth the additional money.
● The on/off switch control must be a trigger control that defaults to off when you release it. We
consider anything else to be a safety hazard.
● Some bayonet saws offer a "chip blowing" feature that blows the sawdust away from the blade,
thus aiding visibility. This is a nice to have feature, but is not worth spending too much money on
(you can manually blow the sawdust out of the way).
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Power Tools: Bayonet Saw
Using the bayonet saw
Before starting to saw the wood, ensure that it is secured to the workbench. This is particularly important
when cutting small pieces of wood. Always make sure that the bayonet saw is not going to come into
contact with the workbench when you cut. Further, make sure that the electrical cable is positioned safely
so that you cannot cut through it by mistake. When using the bayonet saw, do not force it forwards. A
gentle amount of pressure is sufficient to cut through the wood and forcing it will only slow down the
saw's operation.
To cut out a hole in the middle of a piece of wood (without cutting from the side) firstly drill a hole -- in
the area that you intend to cut out -- that is larger than the width of the bayonet saw blade. Insert the
bayonet saw into the hole and then begin cutting. Although you can "plunge cut" (begin cutting in the
middle of a piece of wood without first making a hole) it is not as accurate.
To cut straight lines, clamp a metal rule parallel to the line you want to cut along to act as a guide. To
further aid accuracy, use a wider bayonet saw blade -- this is less likely to curl outwards as you begin
cutting -- and use a slower speed. Slower speeds, in general, allow you to cut more accurately, be it a
freehand curve or a straight line.
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Power Tools: Circular Saw
Circular Saw
Approximate Cost
$130 upwards
Description
Circular saws are great for cross cuts (cutting across the grain) on large or
thick planks of wood, as well as for ripping (cutting along the grain).
Circular saws are fairly accurate when used freehand (without a guide) as the size of the blade keeps the
tool roughly on the straight and narrow. Because of this, the circular saw is a favorite for quick cuts when
accuracy is not an issue.However, the saw can also be used for more accurate cuts by using a guide or
fence to make sure that it stays on the correct path. Furthermore, when you need to cut a beveled edge
(i.e. an angled edge) the circular saw is often your best bet.
To make the circular saw a truly versatile tool, consider purchasing the table saw attachment for your
workbench (if your workbench support this option -- WorkMates typically do). This allows you to fix the
circular saw upside down so that it acts as a cheap table saw.
When looking to buy a circular saw, consider the following:
● How easy is it to replace the blade? Some saw manufacturers make this very difficult.
● How large is the blade? The standard size is 7 1/4": Anything less is not really worth it.
● Will the circular saw cut bevels? The typical range should be 0 to 45 degrees.
● Can you raise the cut of the saw, so that it will only cut to a certain depth? This is necessary for
cutting small grooves.
● Can you use a dust bag with this saw? Circular saws can produce a considerable amount of dust.
● Can you attach a rip fence guide to the saw? This is useful for ripping down planks of wood.
● When using the saw freehand, how easy is it to see where the blade is cutting? Many saws now
have a "sight" at the front edge of the saw's base to make guiding the saw easier.
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Using the saw
You should always use two hands when operating a circular saw. One handed operation is both
dangerous and will cause inaccurate cuts.
Clamp the wood to your workbench. Mark the line that you wish to follow and line up the sight on the
front of the saw with this line. With the front of the base resting on the wood (but with the saw blade not
touching) start the saw. When the saw comes up to full speed, slowly move the saw forward, keeping the
sight lined up with the cut line.
Do not try and force the saw through the wood, but instead gently maintain a forward motion. As you
move the saw through the wood, the saw guard will automatically raise up to allow the blade to cut
through the wood. Do not manually lift the guard by putting your hand close to the saw guard. If the
guard does not lift up as expected, consult your manual.
Ripping
Ripping is performed in the same manner as crosscutting (described above) with the exception of the
supporting material to be cut. If the material is supported on a large table (or the floor) several pieces of
scrap wood should be placed underneath the wood. This scrap material should be at least 1" thick in
order to ensure that the saw's blade does not cut through the surface below.
For narrow rips, use the rip guide (fence) that usually comes with the saw or can be purchased as an
optional extra. For wider cuts, such as in plywood, clamp down a long metal rule (at least 1/4" thick) or a
straight piece of wood as a guide.
Before you begin cutting, adjust the saw's depth of cut so that the blade is well clear of the underneath
surface (the floor or workbench). Also ensure that the power cord is free and clear of the cut area.
Bevel Cutting
Bevel cuts are performed in the same manner as crosscuts and rips. However, you should be particularly
careful to make sure that the blade will not make contact with the underlying supports or the scrap wood
spacers.
Plunge Cuts
Plunge cuts are when you begin the cut in the middle of the work, rather than at the edge. The classic
example of when this is needed is when putting a skylight into a roof. Mark the areas that you wish to cut
out clearly. Begin near the corner of one side and place the front edge of the saw base firmly on the
wood. Lift up the saw guard using the correct procedure (consult your specific manual for details of this).
Make sure that you have adjusted the depth of cut to a suitable depth.
Start the motor and slowly lower the back end of the saw towards the wood while keeping the front

firmly in place. After the blade has cut through and the base rests flat on the wood's surface, follow the
cut line up to the corner. To accurately cut out the corners of the square hole, use a jigsaw (bayonet saw).

Power Tools: Miter Saw
Miter Saws
Approximate Cost
Miter Saw: $150 upwards

Compound Miter Saw: $200 upwards
Sliding Compound Miter Saw: $400 upwards
Description
Miter saws replace the traditional miter box, the wooden box that allowed you
to cut wood with a hand saw at angles of (typically) 45 and 90 degrees. The powered miter saw is, at its
most basic, a large circular saw that pivots at its rear, allowing you to bring the saw blade down onto the
wood. Any angle between 45 and 90 degrees can be cut. A compound miter saw allows the saw to
additionally pivot to one side for cutting bevels.
While both types of saw are very effective, they have a limitation as to the length of the crosscut that is
possible. This is typically limited to less than 10". To counter this problem, the latest breed of miter saws
include a sliding function that allows the saw to pivot downwards and then slide towards you. This
increases the cutting length of these tools significantly as well as having other benefits to boot. For
example, the sliding mechanism allows you to cut down to a certain depth (rather than all the way though
the wood) and then cut across at this depth. This is very useful for cutting grooves, or for cutting tennon
joints.
However, it should be borne in mind that the miter saw is, in effect, a cut down version of a radial arm
saw. If you have the money, you should consider investing in one of these, instead of a miter saw. The
increased functionality -- especially the ability to rip wood -- is certainly worth considering. The
alternative is to buy the compound miter saw and also purchase a table saw -- the best bet in our opinion.
When buying a miter saw consider the following:
● The larger the blade size the better.
● What length of cross cut will the saw cope with?
● Does the saw have an electronic brake to slow the blade down quickly? This is a valuable safety
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Power Tools: Miter Saw
feature.
● You should certainly buy a compound miter saw, rather than the more basic non-compound saw.
If you can afford it, the sliding compound saw is worth considering.
Using the miter saw
Let the saw come up to speed before beginning to cut the wood. Slowly lower the spinning blade towards
the wood and keep pushing through the wood at a smooth, slow constant rate. Once you have cut through
the wood, let the blade come to a full stop before raising it again.
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of factors. The type of material being cut, the type of
blade (and how sharp it is) and the rate of cut all contribute to the quality of the final cut. The miter saw
is typically purchased with a fairly coarse blade pre-installed (suitable for cutting joists and other rough
work). If you are going to use the miter saw for more accurate work you should immediately invest in a
finer toothed saw (60 teeth minimum). This finer blade, combined with a slow smooth cutting rate will
produce the desired effect.
When cross cutting large planks, you will need to use additional supports to
stop the wood from bowing. It is a good idea to make a small stand out of
scrap wood so that you can support longer planks of wood (see diagram).
Although you will often just hold the wood in place with the pressure of your
hands (but keeping your hands well clear of the blade), it is sometimes
beneficial to clamp down the wood. This will stop the material from creeping sideways while cutting it.
If small splinters occur when cutting the wood, apply a strip of masking tape over the area that you will
be cutting. Saw through the masking tape and then remove it. This should reduce the splintering.
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Power Tools: Scroll Saw
Scroll Saw
Approximate Cost
$250 upwards
Description
The scroll saw is used for freehand cutting intricate shapes in relatively thin wood. The scroll saw uses
very thin blades that allow you to cut very small radius curves. Think of a scroll saw as being an upside
down bayonet saw, but with a much finer blade, and you will not be too far from reality.
Because of its thin blade, the scroll saw is often the only solution when you need to make very delicate
cuts, such as for inlays. For this reason the tool is often classed as more of a craft-oriented tool rather
than part of the woodworking tool portfolio. However, the typical scroll saw can also accommodate
thicker blades and can cut through larger stock.
This tool is of relatively low priority for the average woodworker. Unless you need the ability to make
delicate cuts, you will not really miss the functionality of this tool too much. A bayonet saw, or a band
saw can fulfill most of the tasks that a scroll saw would be used for.
When purchasing a scroll saw consider the following:
● Some scroll saws offer a variable speed control. If the price differential is minimal this option is
worth considering as slower speeds will increase the accuracy of the cut.
● Consider the depth of cut for the machine you are look at. A depth of 2" is not unreasonable.
● The better devices have a dust clearance pipe. This is a pipe mounted just behind the blade that
will blow the dust away from the point of cut. Note, dust collection systems are not normally an
option.
● Some scroll table bases can be angled to allow beveled cutting. This is a useful facility that is
worth the extra money (within reason).
● Consider where the on/off switch is. Can you access it easily if you need to switch off the
machine quickly?
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Power Tools: Scroll Saw
Using the scroll saw
Because of the thin blade, using a scroll saw needs a delicate touch. If you push too hard, you will all too
easily snap the blade. To cut a curved shape, feed the work with both hands, holding the wood flat
against the saw's base while applying gentle forward pressure. The key is patience. Allow the work to
feed through the saw blade slowly, without forcing it. If you begin to feel a greater level of resistance this
will probably be due to a blunt blade.
A common mistake is to accidentally exert sidewards pressure while feeding the wood through. If this
begins to happen, relax the pressure on the wood by lessening the fingertip pressure. However, do not let
go of the wood, just relax the pressure.
Blade Selection
Scroll saw blade sizes typically range from one to 12. Each blade size is designed to be used with
different thicknesses of wood. The smaller the blade you can pick, the easier it is to cut delicate curves.
The rough selection is as follows:
Blade size Hardwood thickness Softwood Thickness

1 to 2 1/4" 1/4"
3 to 4 1/2" 3/4"
5 to 6 1/4" to 3/4" 1/4" to 1"
7 to 9 1/4" to 1" 1/4" to 2"
10 to 12 3/4" to 2" 3/4" to 2"
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Power Tools: Table Saw
Table Saw
Approximate Cost
$180 upwards (although we believe that for the functionality you really
need, the cost is closer to $750).
Description
The table saw is a useful addition to any workshop as it allows you to rip long planks of wood very
easily. While table saw prices begin at a very affordable level, you should be aware that these cheaper
products a relatively limited in what they can do. Of course, the larger saws are far more expensive.
However, there are alternatives to the table saw for those who are not yet ready to spend the money (or
who do not have the space) for this tool.
At Amateur Woodworker many of us still do not own a table saw, even though we acknowledge that
using one would simplify our lives tremendously! Alternatives to the table saw range from using a
circular saw to rip the wood by using a long straight ruler (or second plank of wood) as a guide to
building your own table saw by making a table that you can clamp a circular saw underneath (pointing
upwards). As an extension of this latter approach, if you own a Workmate-type bench you may be able to
purchase a table saw attachment.
When looking to purchase a table saw, consider the following:
● Buying a table saw comes down to simple economics. The more money you spend, the better the
table.
● The larger the maximum distance between the saw blade and the rip fence, the better. Think of
what you are likely to be ripping on the table saw: if it is just small planks of wood, then a cheap
saw is okay; if it is sheets of plywood, then the larger the width of cut, the better.
● Can the maximum ripping distance be increased by purchasing value-added extender bars?
● Consider how flat and smooth the table top is. A solid, smooth surface is typically better than a
ridged top. At the very least, ensure that the top is level.
● How large is the saw blade. The larger the blade, the deeper the cut.
● How easy is it to replace the blade? Further, can you add different thicknesses of saw blade for
cutting grooves?
● Is the on/off switch easily accessible in an emergency?
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Power Tools: Table Saw
Using the table saw
As with all power tools, the key to using a table saw is to push the wood through gently, not forcing the
saw to cut faster than it is capable off (this will lead to the saw binding). A nice steady gentle force is far
more effective than trying to rush the cut: you'll get a better cut and the blade will last longer.
When ripping a wide board, use both hands. Apply forward pressure with the hand nearest the blade (but
out of line with the blade) while holding the wood firmly against the rip fence by applying sidewards
pressure with the second hand.
When ripping narrower planks of wood it is imperative that you use a push stick. Your hands should
never get anywhere near the blade. Use one stick to push the wood forwards while a second stick should
ensure that the work stays firmly against the rip fence.
Cutting a straight edge on a non-straight plank

Cutting the first straight edge on a non straight plank is something that
confuses may beginners. However, when you understand the technique, it is
not very difficult at all. To ensure that the wood is ripped in a straight line,
tack a think piece of straight-edged plywood to the underside of the plank.
The straight edge of the plywood sits firmly against the rip fence, allowing
you to cut the wood. As a side issue, this technique also cuts the plywood, so
make sure you didn't have any great plans for it!
A second technique is to tack a straight-edged plank of wood to the side of the non-straight wood, giving
a straight edge that can rest against the rip fence. Both techniques have their good points and bad, so
experiment to see which one suits you the best.
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Power Tools: Drill
Power Drill
Approximate Cost
Cordless $130 upwards

Corded $100 upwards
Drill Press: $200 upwards
While cordless drills are ideal portable devices, they are not well suited to
masonry work. If you intend to use the drill for a lot of non-wood drilling
(particularly masonry) then you should purchase a corded drill. This is because cordless drills are not as
powerful (the drill bit does not revolve as fast) and the battery will quickly drain if used to drill into
brick. However, for the occasional masonry hole, cordless drills are still adequate.
Cordless drills come in many shapes and sizes. Voltages start as low as 4.8v and go up to around 18v.
However, anything below 12v is not suitable as a power drill. Instead, these are really glorified
screwdrivers. However, while more voltage means greater power, it also means that the drill will be
heavier. Many people opt for the 12v model as being a happy compromise between weight and
performance. There are two things to consider: how heavy the drill is and how well it is balanced. A well
balanced drill will feel lighter in your hand than a lower voltage model that is unbalanced (i.e. the front is
heavier than the back or vice versa). When holding the drill, it should not be an effort to point the drill bit
in the direction that you want.
When choosing a drill you should consider the following things:
● How long the battery lasts.
● How long it takes to recharge the battery. You should be able to get (as standard) a 15 minute
charger.
● You should get one spare battery when you purchase the drill.
● The drill should offer variable speed control (this also applies for corded drills) so that you can
use it as a screwdriver.
● Most cordless drills offer a reversable function, allowing you to remove screws as well as add
them.
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Power Tools: Drill
● For corded drills, you should buy one that offers both standard drill action and "hammer" action.
The latter is used for drilling into masonry and this functionality is well worth the additional
premium.
Drill Press
Drill presses are drills that are built into a stand, thus ensuring that all drill holes are at the correct angle
(perpendicular to the wood's surface). However, although these ensure that drill holes are accurate, they
are very inflexible devices. As such, drill presses are not necessary for the amateur woodworker and
should be placed low down on the wish list. Besides which, there are techniques that will allow you to
drill perpendicular holes without using a drill press (see below).
Using the drill
The hardest part of using a drill is ensuring that the hole is drilled at the correct angle (typically
perpendicular to the surface). Most of the time, this can be achieved by roughly guessing as it does not
matter too much. However, some drill applications (such as dowel joints) require a greater degree of
accuracy.
In an attempt to help with this problem, some drills come with a built in spirit
level. However, this is an over rated device (although it is useful for drilling
into walls) and will not necessarily guarantee a perpendicular hole. For dowel
joints, the best solution is to use a dowel jig. This jig (available from most
hardware stores) ensures that the hole you are drilling is at the correct angle to
the wood (see photo).
Drilling screw holes

When drilling screw holes, always make sure that the hole you drill is the same size, or slightly smaller,
than the central, solid, stem of the screw. This will allow the flange of the screw to bite into the
surrounding wood without the central solid stem having to force its way in. A hole that is too small may
result in the screw splitting the wood.
Always use a counter sink drill bit to ensure that the head of the screw sits just below the surface of the
wood. Again, the temptation is to allow the screw to find its own level, without using a counter sink, but
this will lead to additional stress on the wood.
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Power Tools: Router
Router
Approximate Cost
Plunge $130 upwards

Fixed $130 upwards
Description
There are two distinct types of router; the plunge router and the fixed (or
standard) router. Both types can offer the same end results, although each
type is better for particular jobs.
The plunge router is especially useful when the routed area begins in the middle of the wood, rather than
at the edge. The maximum plunge depth can be set so that you slowly lower the router bit into the wood
while keeping the router flat on the wood's surface. While a fixed router can also be used in this example,
the router cut depth is fixed and you must hold the router at an angle as you slowly allow the router bit to
cut into the wood. This is not as accurate for small routs.
The fixed router is far better for routs along the edge of a piece of wood. The fixed router is also better
for any time when the depth of the cut must be very accurate. Fixed routers allow very small increases in
the depth of cut and are far more accurate than plunge routers. Further, if you are considering attaching
your router to a router table, a plunge router is not suitable.
If you only have the budget for one router, we recommend that you start with a fixed router. However, it
is often possible to buy a combination router. This is a router that comes with two bases: a plunge base
and a fixed base and these combos are certainly worth looking into.
When looking for a router, consider the following options:
● Note the positioning of the power switch. Many routers now have the power switch on one of the
two hand grips. This is a good feature that increases the safety of the device.
● The power switch should ideally default to off if you release your grip (but must have an override
of this capability if you intend to use a router table).
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Power Tools: Router
● Look at how accurate the depth measurement can be. This is very important as many projects that
you undertake will require a high degree of accuracy.
● What size of shank does the router have? Routers typically come as either a 1/4" or 1/2" shank
size. The 1/2" shank size is better as it will allow you to use larger router bits.
● Routers produce a lot of sawdust. It is therefore advisable to look at routers that provide a dust
extraction hook-up (typically to a shop vac).
● Will the router allow the attachment of a rip fence? This is a very useful add on that you should
consider purchasing.
● Some routers offer a variable speed control. This is not a necessary feature as you will usually
want to use full power. However, if the cost differential is minimal, it may be worth considering.
Using the router
Routers are typically used to cut grooves, hollow out larger areas and create decorative trims along the
edge of a piece of wood. The shapes that can be cut by your router are limited only by the number of
router bits that you own.
The golden rule with routing is to cut a little at a time. It is often tempting to rout a deep groove in one go
but this firstly risks ripping the wood and secondly wears out the router bits quicker. A little patience will
go a long way.
Router bits can be categorized in two camps: edge bits and non edge bits. Edge
router bits have small nylon (or metal) wheels on the bottom of them (see picture)
that run along the wood. This allows you to rout along the edge of the wood
without using a fence. Non-edge bits do not have this wheel, and are therefore
more commonly used when routing a groove down the middle of a piece of wood.
However, they can also be used along the edge of the wood as long as you use a rip
fence or a router table.
Router bits are made out of either High Speed Steel (HSS) or are Carbide Tipped. Carbide Tipped are far
better, although they are significantly more expensive. However, as Carbide Tipped bits last up to 20
times longer, they do work out to be cheaper in the longer term.
To rout a straight groove, either use a rip fence, a router table or clamp a straight rule across the wood so
that the router can guided along it. It is important to note that there is a right and wrong way to run your
router along the edge of a piece of wood. Typically routers rotate in a clockwise direction (when viewing
the router from the top). It is therefore best to move the router from the left towards the right (when
facing the wood). Routing in the wrong direction will cause the router bit to dig into the wood and may

Power Tools: Router
cause splintering of the wood. To ensure that your router abides by the left to right rule, consult your
router manual.
Always wear ear defenders and eye protectors when using a router.

Amateur Woodworker: Wood types
Wood list: Hardwoods

Alder, Red Cocobolo Oak, European
Ash, White Ebony Plane, European
Ash, European Elm, white Purpleheart
Balsa Elm, Dutch & English Rosewood, Brazilian
Basswood Hickory Rosewood, Indian
Beech Jelutong Sycamore
Birch, Yellow Kingwood Sycamore, European
Boxwood Lime Teak
Brazilwood Mahogany Tulipwood
Bubinga Maple, Hard Walnut, Black
Butternut Maple, Soft Walnut, European
Cherry, Black Oak, Red Yellow Poplar
Chestnut Oak, White Softwoods
Select a wood from the above list
http://www.am-wood.com/wood/wood.html [11/3/2003 2:07:51 à«]

http://www.am-wood.com/wood/wooddesc/hmaple.html
Maple, Hard
AKA: Rock maple, sugar maple
Description: Hard, very heavy, straight-grained wood with fine texture. White
sapwood with light red-brown heartwood. This wood is hard to work with because of
its density.
Common Use: Furniture, turning, butcher's blocks, flooring.
http://www.am-wood.com/wood/wooddesc/hmaple.html [11/3/2003 2:08:03 à«]

http://www.am-wood.com/wood/wooddesc/smaple.html
Maple, Soft
AKA: Red maple, silver maple
Description: Straight-grained fine-textured wood. Not as strong as hard maple. Light

creamy-brown in color.
Common Use: Furniture, interior joinery, turning, plywood, flooring.
http://www.am-wood.com/wood/wooddesc/smaple.html [11/3/2003 2:08:13 à«]

http://www.am-wood.com/wood/wooddesc/eoak.html
Oak, European
AKA: English, French, etc
Description: Coarse, straight-grained wood. Pale brown in color.
Common Use: Furniture, joinery, external woodwork, carving, boatbuilding.
http://www.am-wood.com/wood/wooddesc/eoak.html [11/3/2003 2:08:22 à«]

http://www.am-wood.com/wood/softwood.html
Wood list: Softwoods

Cedar, Western Red
Cedar, Yellow
Fir, Douglas
Fir, Silver
Larch
Pine
Redwood, European
Yew
Hardwoods
http://www.am-wood.com/wood/softwood.html [11/3/2003 2:08:27 à«]

http://www.am-wood.com/wood/wooddesc/pine.html
Pine
AKA: Parana pine, hoop pine, ponderosa pine, sugar pine, western white pine, white
pine.
Description: There are too many strains of pine to document here and you are
unlikely to get much of a choice at a local lumber yard. Basically, pine is a soft, pale yellow to reddish
brown color, usually with a straight grain and medium texture.
Common Use: Doors, furniture, turning.
http://www.am-wood.com/wood/wooddesc/pine.html [11/3/2003 2:08:37 à«]

http://www.am-wood.com/wood/woodlist.html
Wood list: Hardwoods

Alder, Red Cocobolo Oak, European
Ash, White Ebony Plane, European
Ash, European Elm, white Purpleheart
Balsa Elm, Dutch & English Rosewood, Brazilian
Basswood Hickory Rosewood, Indian
Beech Jelutong Sycamore
Birch, Yellow Kingwood Sycamore, European
Boxwood Lime Teak
Brazilwood Mahogany Tulipwood
Bubinga Maple, Hard Walnut, Black
Butternut Maple, Soft Walnut, European
Cherry, Black Oak, Red Yellow Poplar
Chestnut Oak, White Softwoods
http://www.am-wood.com/wood/woodlist.html [11/3/2003 2:08:57 à«]

http://www.am-wood.com/wood/wooddesc/bwalnut.html
Walnut, Black
AKA: American walnut
Description: A strong wood with a rather coarse texture. Usually straight-grained, but
not always. Color is a rich brown to purple-black.
Common Use: Furniture, gunstocks, interior joinery, carving, turning.
http://www.am-wood.com/wood/wooddesc/bwalnut.html [11/3/2003 2:09:03 à«]

http://www.am-wood.com/wood/wooddesc/ewalnut.html
Walnut, European
AKA: English, French, etc.
Description: Coarse texture with straight to wavy grain. Color is gray-brown with
darker streaks.
Common Use: Furniture, gunstocks, turning, carving.
http://www.am-wood.com/wood/wooddesc/ewalnut.html [11/3/2003 2:09:10 à«]

Amatuer Woodworker

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Amateur Woodworker: Archive

Baby Changing Table

Paper Towel Holder

Vol III, Issue 3. June/July 1999

Simple Corner Shelf

http://www.am-wood.com/archive/archive.html (1 of 11) [11/3/2003 1:37:10 à«]

Vol III, Issue 2. March/April 1999

Chinese Scroll Frame

Vol III, Issue 1. January/February 1999

Chinese Abacus Lamp

http://www.am-wood.com/archive/archive.html (2 of 11) [11/3/2003 1:37:11 à«]

Vol II, Issue 8. November/December 1998

Bird Nesting Box

Vol II, Issue 7. September/October 1998

http://www.am-wood.com/archive/archive.html (3 of 11) [11/3/2003 1:37:11 à«]

Vol II, Issue 6. July/August 1998

Vol II, Issue 5. June 1998

Chisel Sharpening Jig

Vol II, Issue 4. May 1998

Kitchen Garbage Can

http://www.am-wood.com/archive/archive.html (4 of 11) [11/3/2003 1:37:11 à«]

Vol II, Issue 3. April 1998

Vol II, Issue 2. March 1998

http://www.am-wood.com/archive/archive.html (5 of 11) [11/3/2003 1:37:11 à«]

A router table is an invaluable tool. The problem, however, is that ready-built

Vol II, Issue 1. February 1998

Vol I, Issue 9. December 1997

http://www.am-wood.com/archive/archive.html (6 of 11) [11/3/2003 1:37:11 à«]

Zen Rock Garden

Vol I, Issue 8. November 1997

Vol I, Issue 7. October 1997

Basic Entertainment Center

This entertainment center is a rather primitive affair, as it is an "open-plan" design

http://www.am-wood.com/archive/archive.html (7 of 11) [11/3/2003 1:37:11 à«]

Vol I, Issue 6. September 1997

Vol I, Issue 5. August 1997

http://www.am-wood.com/archive/archive.html (8 of 11) [11/3/2003 1:37:11 à«]

like in design. However, in small bathrooms, where space is of a premium, a box-

Vol I, Issue 4. July 1997

Mah Jong Box

Vol I, Issue 3. June 1997

Adirondack Style Chairs

Adirondack Style Rocking Chair

http://www.am-wood.com/archive/archive.html (9 of 11) [11/3/2003 1:37:11 à«]

Curved Bedside Cabinets

Vol I, Issue 2. May 1997

Vol I, Issue 1. March/April 1997

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http://www.am-wood.com/archive/archive.html (11 of 11) [11/3/2003 1:37:12 à«]

Tools required: Router, sander, saw, drill

Wood required: (Cherry)

Description Qty Width Thickness Length

http://www.am-wood.com/may99/tv.html (1 of 7) [11/3/2003 1:37:37 à«]

Inside supports 4 1" 3/4" 14 1/2"

1. Build side legs

The first step (and most complex) is cutting the two

2. Build front legs

3. Build side panels

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Once the side panel is built we need to cut a bevel

4. Combine side panels and legs

Now that both panels are cut to shape, it is

5. Build rear leg

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