10

Thunderbird Storm

38. Put the washer and nut (T3350118 if you want

new or go to Probolt for stainless steel) on the
spindle and loosely tighten. Spin the wheel to
check that it is moving freely within the caliper
as it should be. No unusual grinding or
binding.

39. Set the belt tension. Line up the wheel using

the adjusters until they are in line with the
same spot on either side of the swing arm.
There are several dots on the outside of the
swing arm that help you do this (Yes this
picture doesn’t have the wheel in).
41. Slide the service tool T3880148 through the
spindle from the left side of the motorcycle.
Screw the elongated nut of the service tool on
the right hand side of the spindle.

42. Using vernier calipers, measure the distance

40. You can get a rough indication of the belt
tension by depressing with the tensioning tool
using 10lbf and see how many notches it
moves in the lower belt guard inspection
window. However, this is not accurate and as
per the Belt and Final Drive guide, a custom
tool is suggested. When not under tension (off
the ground) the belt tensions should be between
7.5-9mm. Check the belt tension at several
spots along the belt to make sure it is in
specification. Use a 14mm spanner to move the
adjusters until the belt is within specification.
When undoing the adjusters it helps to give
them (or the wheel) a couple of gentle taps
with a rubber mallet so that the adjusters are
flush against the swing arm.
from the mark on the swing arm and the
service tool. On the right side it’s between the
rectangular top of the tool and the swing arm
marker. On the left side it is between the round
part of the tool and the marker on the swing
arm. There is a tolerance of 0.3mm! Use a
14mm spanner to shift the adjuster on the rear
brake side of the swing arm. You may end up
going back and forth a number of times but it is
crucial this is correct to stop belt chirp/squeak.
43. Repeat the belt tension and wheel alignment
process until both are within specification. Use
the 14mm spanner to move the locknut against
each adjuster nut being careful not to move the

adjuster nuts in the process. If you want to be
ultra sure use the laser tool as describe in the
Final Drive and Belt guide. I also recommend
getting Mats adjusters, the details are also
found in the belt and final drive guide.
44. Now tighten the rear spindle nut using 27mm
socket to 110Nm. Check the alignment and belt
tension again to make sure nothing has moved.
48. It helps if the bleed hose is long enough so that
49. Poor new DOT 4 fluid into the rear brake
Fluid Replacement
45. Use a T5 Hex screwdriver to undo the screw
holding the metal reservoir protector. Put the
screw back, undo the reservoir lid and remove
the diaphragm.
50. Press the rear brake lever but keep an eye on
51. When opening and closing the bleed nipple I
46. Using a syringe, suck out most of the old brake
fluid from the reservoir. But if you did a full
tear down there is unlikely to be any in there.
47. Attach a small hose to the bleed nipple and
preferably clamp it on.
Rear Brakes 11
it can be elevated above the bike and definitely
above the caliper. This means air in the hose
moves upwards rather than back towards the
bleed nipple. It isn’t so much of an issue when
you are using Speedbleeders but it does make it
easy to see when the bubbles have stopped.
reservoir
the level of fluid in the reservoir. Keep pouring
more fluid into the reservoir making sure that it
doesn’t go empty. If it does you will end up
getting air back into the system. This process
may take some time but eventually fluid comes
through at the bleed nipple. Then in the clear
hose you will see bubbles in the fluid. Keep
pressing the level and adding more fluid as you
go until no more bubbles appear in the clear
hose. Alternatively you can use a vacuum
bleed method or a reverse bleed method.
find that a traditional spanner (non-ratchet
style) is the most practical for this part. When
you start getting fluid out the bleed nipple you
want to get into this rhythm: 1) pump the brake
lever several times with the bleed nipple shut,
2) hold the lever in, 3) release the bleed nipple
a quarter of a turn, 4) close the bleed nipple.
Then repeat as many times as it takes for all the
fluid to go through and no more air bubbles
12 Thunderbird Storm

come out. using 8mm socket and tighten
sensibly.

For non-ABS brakes, skip step 62

For ABS brakes continue on.

52. Turn on your Windows computer and disconnect the Wi-Fi/Internet to stop Windows from overriding
the installed driver.

53. Make sure your motorcycle battery and laptop battery has enough charge to do the work. Open
DealerTool.

54. Remove the left plastic panel and attach the DealerTool
cable to the bike and the computer.

55. Once attached, turn the ignition on and click ‘ECU Data’ and then click ‘Read ECU Data’.
 Rear Brakes 13

56. Now that the ECU has been read the other menus will become accessible. Click on the menu bar and
select ‘ABS’ then click ‘Connect to ABS Unit’.

57. Check that the clear pipe is connected to the bleed nipple and the nipple is undone a 3rd of a turn using
an 8mm spanner.

58. When using the Speed-Bleeder you do not need to pressurise the system but it does help to push the
fluid through. So press the brake lever down to pressurise it. With everything connected, in DealerTool
click ‘Bleed System’. Clicking ‘Bleed System’ will open the solenoid in the ABS unit and you will feel
the brake level loose it’s pressure. At this point (when using speedbleeders) I give the lever a few pumps
to further encourage the old fluid out. The Triumph Service Manual says that when using the Triumph
Software the solenoid stays open for 90 seconds but this is mostly likely when it is completely empty
and this length of time is not needed when there is already fluid in there and you are just changing it.
When using DealerTool (not the Triumph software) I hear the solenoids open for about 5 seconds and
then close. So you want everything ready to go when you press ‘Bleed System’. As soon as you press it,
start pumping the brake lever to push the old fluid out. I don’t believe there is much fluid in there to be
pushed out anyway but it’s good to be thorough. When the solenoid is open you will see ‘Bleeding
system…’ at the bottom.
14 Thunderbird Storm

59. When the Dealer Tool application says ‘Bleed Complete’ at the bottom of the window the bleed is
complete. The Service Manual says wait at least 5 minutes before repeating this procedure otherwise the
ABS unit might be damaged because it needs time to cool. However, the DealerTool software only
opens it briefly and through direct e-mail communication they have said that it is safe to do multiple
openings of the ABS solenoid within the 90 seconds (up to 16-18 times if you wish) and then give it a
rest for 5 minutes to allow it to cool and you should be fine.

60. Once done, click ‘Back to Main page’. Close DealerTool, disconnect the cable, turn off the electrics and
replace the side cover. The ABS bleed is now complete however the old fluid from the solenoid is now
in the system and should be flushed out.
from the system. Make sure the master cylinder
61. It seems like a waste of fluid but there isn’t does not run out of brake fluid. I’m unsure how
another way. With the Speedbleeder nipple still much fluid you have to pump out before the
open, pump the brake lever slowly and ABS fluid is out of the system, but if you do
smoothly until the old ABS fluid is removed

more than regular brake fluid changes for the
rear brake then it will be moved out.
62. Optional- This step isn’t stated in the Triumph
Service manual but helps the brakes feel firm.
Tie a piece of string around the brake pedal
(and cloth to protect the rubber) and tighten it
so that the lever is fully depressed. You can
leave it overnight to be extra sure that every bit
of air has floated out of the brake lines. The
next day release the brake and check to see that
the brake is operating as it should.
63. With the wheel returned and the brakes bled,
return the silencer to position. Return the bolt
using 12mm socket and 12mm spanner and
tighten sensibly (28Nm). Tighten the clamp
using 12mm socket sensibly (15Nm).
What you need before hand
If replacing
64. Return the heat shields and screw the fasteners
in sensibly using T5 Hex screwdriver. No need
to torque because they easily bend out of
shape. Make sure you get the clamp and heat
shield clasp in a position that they can both co-
exist.
Rear Brakes 15
65. Return the upper belt guard using an 8mm
socket and a T5 Hex screwdriver.
Double check the brake works then…
Job Done!
Rear Break Disc
Brake Disc Inspection
There are several things to inspect with the
brake discs; damage, the thickness and run-out.
• Scotch Pad
• Brake cleaner fluid
• Brake disc run out kit including magnetic stand
• Micrometer
• Torque wrench: 22Nm
• Possibly different size shims for the air gap
• All that you need to remove the wheel- see
above
• Possible: New disc T2023334
• If replacing disc, replace the pads as well:
T2020692
• New Disc Bolts: T2020609
o Or change to Titanium/Stainless Steel
• Screw bit: T25 TORX, T40 TORX
• Tap and die set including: M5 with 0.8 thread
and M8 with 1.25 thread
• Possibly part T2020609 or titanium alternative
• Torque wrench: 22Nm
16 Thunderbird Storm
• Red rubber grease
Steps
1. Raise the bike so that the wheel is free to move.
2. First have a look at the disc for cracks and unusual
damage. Then look for any ridges or bumps. If the
disc is not as it should be then replace, see below.
3. Next de-glaze the disc using a Scotch pad. Bend it
in half and move it over both sides of the disc to
get of the film of dirt that builds up on it. Then
using some brake cleaner onto a rag and clean
what remains off the disc.
4. Next check the thickness of the disc using a
micrometer. You want to place the micrometer in
the centre of the pad. Check the width at several
spots around the disc. The disc should be 6mm
thick and if it gets down to 5.5mm thick it should
be replaced. The reading below is upside down
(5.6mm), although it had some further usage to
go, it was also heavily pitted and thus was
replaced.
5. Next is the disc run-out: the amount of wobble in
it. To do this you need a DTI gauge and I found
the best way of using it is with a magnetic stand
attached to the swing arm. You need the needle
towards the edge so that it doesn’t fall into the
holes but as close to them as you can get.
6. Once positioned turn the outer face of the dial to
the 0 point. Then turn the wheel and find the
lowest reading. Reposition the dial so that it is on
the 0 again. Then when you move the wheel
around you can take a reading of how far the
needle moves above 0 and that is your run-out.
The maximum run-out is 0.25mm. If there is too
much run-out the disc is warped and needs to be
replaced.
Job done, unless you need to replace it.
Brake Disc Removal/Replacement
 Rear Brakes 17

It will not be often that you need to follow this 3. Remove the 5 disc bolts using T40 TORX bit in a
bit of the guide but eventually with enough wear you star pattern. The manual says to discard these
will. Another reason you may want to use this part of bolts but with sufficient cleaning, a wire brush,
the guide is if you are changing the disc fixing to thread-lock compound and the right torque there
titanium to reduce potential for rust and reduce weight. should be no issues. If you want to be extra safe
and replace them you require part T2020609. I
Steps would recommend going a step further and order
1. Remove the wheel as per the instructions above. yourself a set of Titanium ones that will never rust
And support it so that it isn’t resting on the disc. in the elements. Again use a tap and die to clean
off and out the old threadlock.
2. Remove the ABS pulser ring (if fitted) using T25
TORX. You may want to put a bit of tape on the
outside so that you put it is back facing the same
way in the same position. Clean and inspect the
ABS ring for damage, warp or missing teeth and
renew if needed (part T2023334). On the top of the
disc is the word ‘OUTSIDE’ and to the left of that
is the word ‘OUT’. Take note of these so they go
back into the same position later. Also if there is
threadlock on the screws clean them off with a tap
and die set (M5 with 0.8 thread), do the same with
the holes.

4. Inspect the new disc and place it with the correct

orientation onto the wheel. Below the new disc is
on the left and the old on the right. It is important
that you ‘de-glaze’ the disc before use. Use some
brake cleaner and a scotch pad to wipe the factor
residue off.

5. Install the new bolts (or cleaned bolts) with

Thread Lock using T40 TORX bit and tighten to
22Nm. Do them up in a star pattern so they are in
place and then with the torque wrench. See in the
18 Thunderbird Storm

picture below between old OEM bolts and new to a thicker or thinner one. The shim is the metal
Titanium bolts. plate between the speed sensor and the holding.

6. Refit the ABS pulser ring, if fitted, using T25

TORX bit and tighten sensibly (5Nm). Smear a
little red rubber grease on the rubber seal to
prolong its life.

Sensor
Shim

7. Always install new brake pads when replacing the

disc- see instructions above in this guide.

8. Reinstall the wheel (see steps above) but before 10. Continue to refit the wheel as per the
putting the exhaust back on check the Air Gap if instructions above.
you have an ABS model.
11. With the wheel in place check the disc run-out
to check that you haven’t been sold a warped
Air Gap-ABS model only disc and/or that the disc and wheel is in place.
9. Check and adjust the gap between the wheel speed
sensor and the ABS pulser ring. The gap must be
0.37mm-1.25mm. I found that checking the gap
was larger than 0.40mm and smaller than 1mm
worked for my feeler gauge rather than trying to
check 0.37. The shim is the metal plate between
the speed sensor and the holding. If the gap is too
big or too small then the shim needs to be changed

12. Finally check that the rear brake pistons are in
place and work by pressing the rear brake
pedal. Also spin the wheel several times to
check for belt squeak. It may help while it is
safely raised to put the bike into first gear and
check there is no squeak. If there is adjust as
per the belt guide.
Job Done!
Speed-Bleeder Installation- Optional Extra
General Comments
Replacing the bleed nipple with Speed-Bleeder’s
makes changing the fluid much easier with the only
down side is that you can’t do a reverse brake bleed.
They are one-way valves that can be left on the bike
and reused. The choice is yours.
What you need before hand
• Paper towel
• Spanner 8mm
• Speed Bleeder 1.25mm x M8 x2
• Thread-lock 221 or 222 if reinstalling
Steps: Removal/Inspection
1. Place a piece of paper towel around the bleed
nipple area so that brake fluid doesn’t drip onto
anything else. Removing the left silencer will
improve access (see below for further details).
Remove the front brake nipple cap.
Bleed Nipple
Rear Brakes 19
2. Do not remove the master cylinder top. Keep it on
to reduce the fluid that escapes when removing
the bleed nipple. Unscrew and remove the bleed
nipple using 8mm spanner
3. Screw the Speed-Bleeder in using 8mm spanner
and tighten sensibly. If you are re-installing a
previously installed Speed-Bleeder, clean the
thread with a wire brush and place some thread-
lock (Type: 221 or 222) onto it before screwing it
back in. The Speed-Bleeder will be tighter to
screw in than the original part because of the
thread-lock. When undoing it for routine
maintenance, you do not need to stick thread lock
on it every single time, just when removing
completely.
4. It will be sensible to check the operation of the
brakes. If the feel of the brake has changed since
removal of the original bleed nipple the brakes
will need bleeding. In either case it is sensible to
check that the Speed-Bleeders are working by
doing a brake bleed- see below for details.
5. Once finished return the bleed nipple cap.
Job Done!